Raker depth should be ground the same no matter how much the cutter is ground back. A old chain at .030 will cut the same as a new chain at .030. Raker gauges come in various depth settings from .025 to .040. I find it far easier to do with a file and gauge. Also, When cutters become shorter they get hot faster when grinding. This has to do with a smaller heat sink to pull heat away from cutting edge.
Hi do you use the In out gauge at the bottom of the turntable. For example I believe stihl use 15 degrees, Do you know which tooth requires the in and which tooth requires the out. Thanks
For the vast majority of chains you set A (the motor angle) to +40 and leave it there. If you're sharpening the left side cutters you set B (in/ out slide) to -15 and C (the chain clamp angle) to -30, if you're sharpening the right hand cutters you set B to +15 and C to +30. If you search for sawchainangles_chart you can find the Stihl chart for all the grind angles and wheels for all the different chain types.
Like your video! Got a question on the grinding wheels. Do you have to dress them? Right now I use the diamond wheel which is awesome less dust and no dressing.
These wheels do need to be dressed. Diamond wheels are appealing for the reasons that you state but will they remove heavy damage from a chain? These wheels are filthy to operate but will take a heavily damaged chain back to sharp in 1 or 2 passes. Most of the work I do on this grinder is with damaged chain.
For the vast majority of chains you set A to +40 and leave it there. If you're sharpening the left side cutters you set B to -15 and C to -30, if you're sharpening the right hand cutters you set B to +15 and C to +30. If you search for sawchainangles_chart you can find the Stihl chart for all the grind angles and wheels for all the different chain types.
Safety chains are not a thing..... a matter of fact that is a full chisel chain , as the chisels are squared off at the top , which makes that an aggressive chain the most opposite of safe a chain can be. even it were a bicycle chain moving at half the speeds a chainsaw chain moves it would still cleave you to the bone in less than a second.
@@JamesWilson-ox1kc That's incorrect also to say the word "anti" in conjunction with kickback implies that it absolutely cannot kickback and that's not true either the correct term is (reduced or low kickback)im a gold master wrench for STIHL and it doesnt even require my expertise to know this information, talk to anybody who runs in the motorcycle world and most people know at least one guy who had a bike chain cleave a chunk ovtve his leg
Impressive camera work. Great video! Thank you for sharing.
Хоть я и не силён в английском, но что мне надо я всё понял ! Спасибо ! Привет из России !
Raker depth should be ground the same no matter how much the cutter is ground back. A old chain at .030 will cut the same as a new chain at .030.
Raker gauges come in various depth settings from .025 to .040. I find it far easier to do with a file and gauge.
Also, When cutters become shorter they get hot faster when grinding. This has to do with a smaller heat sink to pull heat away from cutting edge.
where do you get hidraulic system for usg ???
how do you keep your teeth from getting molded or reshaped wrong instead of getting grounded off when you have to take off, say, 1/3 of the tooth?
Just got one, no stones though. I use CBN wheels on Oregon clone. any lead on an adapter ?
Hi do you use the In out gauge at the bottom of the turntable.
For example I believe stihl use 15 degrees,
Do you know which tooth requires the in and which tooth requires the out.
Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? Your talking about slide B right?
For the vast majority of chains you set A (the motor angle) to +40 and leave it there. If you're sharpening the left side cutters you set B (in/ out slide) to -15 and C (the chain clamp angle) to -30, if you're sharpening the right hand cutters you set B to +15 and C to +30.
If you search for sawchainangles_chart you can find the Stihl chart for all the grind angles and wheels for all the different chain types.
Hallo super Feststeller wie hast du denn gebaut ist doch bestimmt eigenbau kannst du mir ein paar Tips geben wie ich ihn Bauen kann
danke gruss mike
Like your video! Got a question on the grinding wheels. Do you have to dress them? Right now I use the diamond wheel which is awesome less dust and no dressing.
These wheels do need to be dressed. Diamond wheels are appealing for the reasons that you state but will they remove heavy damage from a chain? These wheels are filthy to operate but will take a heavily damaged chain back to sharp in 1 or 2 passes. Most of the work I do on this grinder is with damaged chain.
What is your head tilt at???
Do you use the Stihl reccomended 40 head tilt
So the usg comes with wheels??
Yes
Where are you setting your A and B scales? You said 60.. but does the A scale go that high?
I know this was 3 years ago but I just purchased one yesterday and trying to figure out the a & b myself
Anyone know how slide B is set? I tried to fallow directions... does look like its supposed to move between each side?
For the vast majority of chains you set A to +40 and leave it there. If you're sharpening the left side cutters you set B to -15 and C to -30, if you're sharpening the right hand cutters you set B to +15 and C to +30.
If you search for sawchainangles_chart you can find the Stihl chart for all the grind angles and wheels for all the different chain types.
what is best for cleaning chains before sharpening?
I know this is older video, but to me it seemed you were eyeballing depth gagues as if the grinder did not have a "stop" to set for uniformity. No?
I realize Im kinda randomly asking but does anybody know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Chaim Terrance flixportal :P
@Andres Brett Thanks, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) Appreciate it!!
@Chaim Terrance Happy to help :)
mystery solved, thank you.
You are grinding way too long . Unnecessarily heating the tooth
Safety chains are not a thing..... a matter of fact that is a full chisel chain , as the chisels are squared off at the top , which makes that an aggressive chain the most opposite of safe a chain can be. even it were a bicycle chain moving at half the speeds a chainsaw chain moves it would still cleave you to the bone in less than a second.
refers to anti kickback
@@JamesWilson-ox1kc That's incorrect also to say the word "anti" in conjunction with kickback implies that it absolutely cannot kickback and that's not true either the correct term is (reduced or low kickback)im a gold master wrench for STIHL and it doesnt even require my expertise to know this information, talk to anybody who runs in the motorcycle world and most people know at least one guy who had a bike chain cleave a chunk ovtve his leg
Try out this machin: th-cam.com/video/eP9W4W5y610/w-d-xo.html