There are few things more satisfying to do and watch for me as bush hogging and reworking a gravel driveway with a boxed blade.... I can't be the only one.
I fix alot of stone driveways that have potholes , I have many pieces of equipment, the best thing that I have found to level out stone and have a crown on it too is a 60" County Line landscape rake with the wheel kit. I run a Kubota b2601 with rear hydraulics and hydraulic top link. If you pull top link all the way in , the rake will dig or pull more product, push the link out and it will " raise" the fingers and feather out the product. The wheels will stay running smooth on the fresh leveled stone after the fingers so it won't be bumpy. I also put a hydraulic cylinder to power angle it. I've been using this setup for a few years now and works flawlessly. After the driveway is all leveled they need to be tamped or rolled with a vibratory roller which is what I do. The holes will just come back but will take a little bit longer unless it's compacted. Love the videos and have even learned a few tricks from you, thanks have a great day, Mike
Driveways are the bread and butter of my tractor business. As my final dress pass I fully extend my hydraulic top link and skim in long passes with the rear blade only. This takes out the little ridges and makes a very photogenic surface for pics and videos.
Looks good! I'm still pretty new to box blading, and one thing I find it hard to do is know when to stop! I've had a time or two when I think "one more pass to dial it in," just to find I should have just left it!
Grading Driveways takes skill. Drainage of water is very tricky because water will find its own level and seeks the path of least resistance. I actually learned a lot from this video. Good job Tim. You get 5 Stars! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
The ultimate driveway stone/mix I’ve found is a 1 1/4” x 100 mesh with fines still in it. It will pack hard but still drain. It’s absolutely wonderful. If you can find it at your local quarries… get it! It’s better than any of the other common choices.
Thanks for the video and the tips Tim. I’m about to go borrow my neighbors 1025R and try to smooth out our road a little bit. First time I will ever have used a diesel tractor with a loader and a box blade. It should be good practice. I’m looking into getting an L3902 for our property and to take over road/driveway and ditch/culvert maintenance for the neighborhood. My neighbor said we are always welcome to borrow the subcompact if we need it, so it will be nice having both sized machines available.
Good example of using the these attachments to get the job done. Certainly several ways to do it, but a lot of times for me, those are the attachments that are readily at my disposal. Great tips and tricks as always. Thanks Tim and Christy. Blessings.
Hydraulic top links are great. 👍 They are so handy for make quick adjustments without having to come off the seat. Rear hydraulics are so handy and opens up so many more possibilities for the tractor. Looking forward when you add more to your JD 3R series. Hopefully your Summit kit will come in soon
Enjoyed the video. I have a box blade that I've never used. I bought it to use on the very rough alley behind our old house and when I called to have the natural gas line located, the locator told me the depth of the gas line and it was too shallow for my comfort. We moved before I got around to having any rock hauled in to smooth it out. after all this time, I still look forward to each of your videos.
A friend of mine was going to grade mine today. I need it. But I had a daddy / daughter day canoeing. So I'll use my Dr grader and pull behind my qaudrunner. Just a lot more time consuming. But the smile on me girls face. Priceless!
Really like the size of that tractor , to me that would be the perfect size , not to big for most jobs but plenty big enough to get the hardest jobs done , and I believe woods has a grader blade that can be angled and stuff for that size as well .
Very nice work and finished product Tim. You see, in different areas, people use different procedures. In my area of North Jersey we would usually come in with a D3 sized dozer and a fresh load of stone. Benefits to both ways, although eventually with our way out here by me, at some point in time you do have to get a rake or some kind to really rejuvenate the accumulated stone . Nice job.
Looking forward to the dyno tests. And the antique tractors. Looking good. Nice to be able to fix it up. Couldn’t do that with pavement. Have to be careful when back dragging with the bucket, with the bucket cylinders extended way out.
I use to drive a 4cx jcb full time for 5 to 6 years done many drive ways gettingbthe right slope for water is the most tricky bit and you never get it to last a life time 2 years is not bad going tho tim, the 4 in bucket on a jcb is very versatile attachment for grading
Land Pride has 5 foot rear blades with tilt and angle (RB1660). I have a Land Pride RB3784 that I use with my 3033R. I got it when they offered JD green. Great video. Your camera crew does a great job.
I'd be curious to see if that 2038 could handle a landpride rb3772. I run one with ease on my l2501 and I also added the hydraulic angle. One helluva rear ballast as well. I love the side plates also
Since you have the hydraulic top link, have you tried to see if you can get enough "tilt" from a standard rear angle blade to do what your looking for? You have to have the rear blade set at an angle (maybe more angle than your looking for) so that extending or retracting the hydraulic top link to one of it's extreme limits will cause one side of the angled rear blade to be lower than the other, creating the "tilt". It will not be as versatile as a rear blade with angle & "tilt", but may work well enough, maybe..... Just curious. Looks like you did a great job of it regardless! Have a good one!!
Another good one Tim. I fabricated a quick mount landscape rake on my loader arms for driveway work. Super slick, it's like plowing snow and you don't have to look behind you the whole time. I think there used to be one on the market "frontrunner" I believe it was.
For me and my limited skill I have found breaking it up and filling in pot holes with the box blade then I smoothing out pass or 2 with a landscape rake works best then grab my daughter and take her for a ride and wheel pack it down usually lasts about 3 winters
Great job, but I thought you would’ve used the land plane. I stopped using my box blade very much to refurbish the driveway as I am spoiled to the land plane now. Keep up the great work!
@@TractorTimewithTim What???? You mean I have one better attachment than TTWT? :) :) Just did this job in my driveway, don't have a box blade just the land plane with scarifiers.
Cool Box Blade! and video! That ground looked like it was hard packed but it looks like you ripped it up pretty good with one pass? With my Frontier 72" BB it seems I barely scratch the ground and I'm having to make 1000 passes before it looks like I did anything. Well maybe not a 1000 but you get the idea. Besides your box blade being heavier, I wonder if your hydraulic top link and hydraulic scarifier makes the difference compared to my standard 6' box blade? This is my first time using a box blade so its all new to me.
Stop Broken Keys on John Deere Compact Tractors! Look at this product. It will solve a lot of problems on breaking keys on John Deer tractors. That is the title on the TH-cam video. Sorry, but I don’t know any other way to send this to you. I asked if you know of a different key design,but this will work. I have been looking for a fix for a few years. Love your channel. Hope my wife and I can see y’all some day. Thanks. PS. I don’t do social media.
Great video I use the road pack on most of my driveways and then dress some up with the clean 3/4 inch rock on top depending on the drainage of their yard so water can pass through easily and get where it needs to go
Everything Attachments started making a rear blade for compact tractors with hydraulic angle and tilt using diverter valves. It doesn’t appear to be on their website at the moment, but I’ve seen it in their Facebook page.
Hi Tim, thank you for another very educational video. Quick question -How do you bill for box blade/driveway grading? It seems that a lot of the people in my area charge extremely inflated rates for box blade services. Take care
Mind if I ask where you got your top link or could you recommend a good place that I could get both the link with matching hoses? I'm looking for one for my tractor and from what I could figure, the min/max length is approx 21" - 32". Also, any "got-ya's" or things to look out for when choosing and/or installing one that you may have run across in your experience would be appreciated. Thanks Tim.
Sometimes folks want to just dump more gravel and spread it around and what you usually get is washboarding. The gravel becomes to thick and the more you drive on it the rougher it becomes.
For a rear blade I went with a frontier RB2060. A couple years ago when I was looking for one, I saw a model that offered tilt, slide, offset and rotate obviously, all manual settings, no hydraulics needed. I honestly can't remember the name of it. It was over $900 for a 5ft which was too much for me at the time. I got my frontier used, but the paint wasn't even scratched and I got it for less than half the price of a new one. I'm very happy with it.
Fill your bucket with dirt to give the front wheels some work when pulling loads. Really helps get better traction. Looks pretty smooth honestly, but adding some wheels behind the blade on a small boom will really help. Don't know if you do any welding. Then the top link can be used to adjust how much the blade engages and planes off the high spots. I plan to add some wheels to my grader blade that hinge to an upright position when you don't need them and pin in place when down. Then fill the wheels with fluid and steel parts with concrete as these blades never weight enough to dig in properly.
We have a nice driveway, until it rains. 1/4 mile of clay. When we moved in we had roadbase laid down, but the first rain it all sank into clay and once again, can’t get down the driveway without getting stuck. How do we address this?
What region of the country? In general, keep adding rock. An inch or two per year until it stops sinking. In the Midwest at least, it WILL stop sinking.
@@TractorTimewithTim thanks for the reply! We are in southern Colorado. Road is raised up from the surrounding field but just a sloppy mess. We don’t get a lot of rain, but when we do it’s all at once. Any particular size gravel that will work the best?
@@TractorTimewithTim alright. The house was built in the 80’s and had zero maintenance since, so probably the same for the driveway. Hopefully it’s just going to take some intense maintenance for a while and then be drivable.
When I lived in Indiana, I put a thin coat of Number 8s on top of my 53s crusher run base. There was enough dust to lock the 8s on top. But the driveway wasn't as dusty. No. 8s are maybe pea sized, comfortable to walk on but usually too large to get picked up by your shoes and tracked inside.
#8’s are supposed to be 3/4” with no dust. Yes, an inch or so of #8’s looks really nice on top of a base of 53’s or 73’s. Also, eventually, #8’s break down into 73’s…so adding another inch of 8’s becomes necessary.
@@TractorTimewithTim Yes, 8s are clean! I wasn't clear enough: the dust in the top of the 53s seemed enough to lock the 8s and keep the 8s from rolling too much. I learned this from an excavator. And it may have been in southern Ohio that the 8s came in. There they didn't call 53s that like the Hoosiers, however.. Or maybe it was the other way around . . .
I bent my top cylinder rod on my class 2 tractor by tilting too far forward. Just be careful on changing the stress point down to low and pulling really hard.
While I know this is tractor time with Tim, a skid steer would be much more nimble and able to turn around quicker in this smaller area than the long tractor with loader and box blade. Keep up the good work sir! 👍😁
I wish I could make it. I live about 30 minutes from you. I work both days. I have a 2020 BX2680 and would love to volunteer to be in a video with you. I've watched your channel for some time and we share similar values. I hope you enjoy your time at the fair. Hopefully our paths cross at some point.
This was awesome. I had to laugh when the lady asked “should I move”? And the man replied “I think I’m going to miss the camera” Never mind the woman 😂 Thank you Folks 👍🏼
Its ben my experience that the best rock to keep the dust down is gray lime stone not the white witch will cause tons of dust and crown the road to get the water off . Do not put down the scarifiers down and bust up the drive way unless to level the road . This will facilitate the water to get into the road and cause damage.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you tim iv a year 2000 john deere 4400 il be trading her soon im just trying to see in todays john deeres what would be near like for like i run a trimax 190 roller mower behind her
Sometimes you don't need to bring in the heavy equipment. I think a lawn tractor with a good electric raiser scar and box bade attachment would have been ideal to do this maintenance / repair job.
are you in the Northeast? I agree, I don't see a lot of C&R on the top in NJ, but seems to be popular elsewhere. Here, people want crushed washed stone on top.
sounds good in theory, but loading a land plane, box blade, and usually a rake with gauge wheels on a trailer is not practical, even with a 20 or 22' trailer. I do it like Tim did. BB, Rake w wheels, then roll it with a compaction roller. If you know how to use BB you dont need a land plane, esp if you have hydraulic toplink that you can adjust on the fly.
In this situation, perhaps not the worst, but if ever the city becomes involved, you will find sloping a driveway towards a neighbors yard will also require a French drain or catch trough to route it to the street or a basin. Run off from one yard into another is not very neighborly nor is it legal in most incorporated jurisdictions.
My biggest frustration is once I get everything graded the way I want, winter comes and sure enough I end up with potholes after I loosened everything in the spring. Oh well, guess that’s why I bought a tractor. Nice job!
I tilt my box blade to move material for the crown. Right side down, then drive up the right side to move material to the left. Then drive down with the same right side down the road, voila, material will appear for you crown. Then just compact it.
There are few things more satisfying to do and watch for me as bush hogging and reworking a gravel driveway with a boxed blade.... I can't be the only one.
I fix alot of stone driveways that have potholes , I have many pieces of equipment, the best thing that I have found to level out stone and have a crown on it too is a 60" County Line landscape rake with the wheel kit. I run a Kubota b2601 with rear hydraulics and hydraulic top link. If you pull top link all the way in , the rake will dig or pull more product, push the link out and it will " raise" the fingers and feather out the product. The wheels will stay running smooth on the fresh leveled stone after the fingers so it won't be bumpy. I also put a hydraulic cylinder to power angle it. I've been using this setup for a few years now and works flawlessly. After the driveway is all leveled they need to be tamped or rolled with a vibratory roller which is what I do. The holes will just come back but will take a little bit longer unless it's compacted. Love the videos and have even learned a few tricks from you, thanks have a great day, Mike
Good stuff. Thanks!
Driveways are the bread and butter of my tractor business. As my final dress pass I fully extend my hydraulic top link and skim in long passes with the rear blade only. This takes out the little ridges and makes a very photogenic surface for pics and videos.
Looks good! I'm still pretty new to box blading, and one thing I find it hard to do is know when to stop! I've had a time or two when I think "one more pass to dial it in," just to find I should have just left it!
Grading Driveways takes skill. Drainage of water is very tricky because water will find its own level and seeks the path of least resistance. I actually learned a lot from this video. Good job Tim. You get 5 Stars! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Tim your channel is what I need each day! Love this one!
Great job. Held up well for 2 years, should easily get another 2 years out of it. Thanks for bringing us along. Be blessed!
Sorry for your loss, Thank you Lord for blessing this family with the love and memories for so many years.
Green, blue, orange, red. It doesn’t matter what color your tractor is. It’s all about operator skills. Great work! Keep up the amazing videos.
This is a video I badly needed to watch. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
The ultimate driveway stone/mix I’ve found is a 1 1/4” x 100 mesh with fines still in it. It will pack hard but still drain. It’s absolutely wonderful. If you can find it at your local quarries… get it! It’s better than any of the other common choices.
Thanks for the video and the tips Tim. I’m about to go borrow my neighbors 1025R and try to smooth out our road a little bit. First time I will ever have used a diesel tractor with a loader and a box blade. It should be good practice. I’m looking into getting an L3902 for our property and to take over road/driveway and ditch/culvert maintenance for the neighborhood. My neighbor said we are always welcome to borrow the subcompact if we need it, so it will be nice having both sized machines available.
Good work, Tim! I’n still a fan of a land plane for driveway work - but the hydraulic scarifiers sure are nice on the box blade.
Good example of using the these attachments to get the job done. Certainly several ways to do it, but a lot of times for me, those are the attachments that are readily at my disposal. Great tips and tricks as always. Thanks Tim and Christy. Blessings.
Hydraulic top links are great. 👍 They are so handy for make quick adjustments without having to come off the seat. Rear hydraulics are so handy and opens up so many more possibilities for the tractor. Looking forward when you add more to your JD 3R series. Hopefully your Summit kit will come in soon
Topping with recycled asphalt is my favorite option. Best of both worlds, no dust and it stays put
This is my absolute favorite kind of job with a tractor 🚜
Simple video but impactful to watch. i love the grading process.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@TractorTimewithTimwatched again! Love these type of videos, great content!
Enjoyed the video. I have a box blade that I've never used. I bought it to use on the very rough alley behind our old house and when I called to have the natural gas line located, the locator told me the depth of the gas line and it was too shallow for my comfort. We moved before I got around to having any rock hauled in to smooth it out. after all this time, I still look forward to each of your videos.
A friend of mine was going to grade mine today. I need it. But I had a daddy / daughter day canoeing. So I'll use my Dr grader and pull behind my qaudrunner. Just a lot more time consuming. But the smile on me girls face. Priceless!
Really like the size of that tractor , to me that would be the perfect size , not to big for most jobs but plenty big enough to get the hardest jobs done , and I believe woods has a grader blade that can be angled and stuff for that size as well .
Wow what a top and tilt kit does for maintenance of a driveway Thanks Tim.
Love watching your channel, enjoy you grading and using the box blade!
Good Sunday morning , God bless you & thank you for sharing
Very nice work and finished product Tim. You see, in different areas, people use different procedures. In my area of North Jersey we would usually come in with a D3 sized dozer and a fresh load of stone. Benefits to both ways, although eventually with our way out here by me, at some point in time you do have to get a rake or some kind to really rejuvenate the accumulated stone . Nice job.
Looking forward to the dyno tests. And the antique tractors.
Looking good. Nice to be able to fix it up. Couldn’t do that with pavement.
Have to be careful when back dragging with the bucket, with the bucket cylinders extended way out.
I use to drive a 4cx jcb full time for 5 to 6 years done many drive ways gettingbthe right slope for water is the most tricky bit and you never get it to last a life time 2 years is not bad going tho tim, the 4 in bucket on a jcb is very versatile attachment for grading
Good work. It absolutely amazes me that you didn’t take out that wooden fence right there 😳👏👏👏
Nice job with the box blade. A driveway always looks best after new stone or worked up as you did, then a rain to clean it all and help pack it in.
Real nice where your angling all the rainwater over to the neighbors!!
Land Pride has 5 foot rear blades with tilt and angle (RB1660). I have a Land Pride RB3784 that I use with my 3033R. I got it when they offered JD green. Great video. Your camera crew does a great job.
Hydraulic tilt/angle?
The driveway looks great! That's a nice option to have the hydraulically controlled scarifiers on the boxblade.
Apparently not your first driveway repair Mr. Tim, very nice work! (Great close-up video too!) 👍
Tim Marks is a genius. He got TH-cam to abbreviate the name of his channel in the description to "Tractor Tim." Negotiation skills...
I'd be curious to see if that 2038 could handle a landpride rb3772. I run one with ease on my l2501 and I also added the hydraulic angle. One helluva rear ballast as well. I love the side plates also
A really nice job there , Tim .
Since you have the hydraulic top link, have you tried to see if you can get enough "tilt" from a standard rear angle blade to do what your looking for? You have to have the rear blade set at an angle (maybe more angle than your looking for) so that extending or retracting the hydraulic top link to one of it's extreme limits will cause one side of the angled rear blade to be lower than the other, creating the "tilt". It will not be as versatile as a rear blade with angle & "tilt", but may work well enough, maybe..... Just curious. Looks like you did a great job of it regardless! Have a good one!!
What would a rough cost estimate be for this service? I know this depends on the size of the area, how about a 1/4 mile gravel road 8-10ft wide?
You definitely have a touch with the machines
Another good one Tim. I fabricated a quick mount landscape rake on my loader arms for driveway work. Super slick, it's like plowing snow and you don't have to look behind you the whole time. I think there used to be one on the market "frontrunner" I believe it was.
For me and my limited skill I have found breaking it up and filling in pot holes with the box blade then I smoothing out pass or 2 with a landscape rake works best then grab my daughter and take her for a ride and wheel pack it down usually lasts about 3 winters
Great job, but I thought you would’ve used the land plane. I stopped using my box blade very much to refurbish the driveway as I am spoiled to the land plane now. Keep up the great work!
My land plane does not have scarifiers.
@@TractorTimewithTim What???? You mean I have one better attachment than TTWT? :) :) Just did this job in my driveway, don't have a box blade just the land plane with scarifiers.
Yep. Looks that way!
Cool Box Blade! and video! That ground looked like it was hard packed but it looks like you ripped it up pretty good with one pass? With my Frontier 72" BB it seems I barely scratch the ground and I'm having to make 1000 passes before it looks like I did anything. Well maybe not a 1000 but you get the idea. Besides your box blade being heavier, I wonder if your hydraulic top link and hydraulic scarifier makes the difference compared to my standard 6' box blade? This is my first time using a box blade so its all new to me.
Stop Broken Keys on John Deere Compact Tractors! Look at this product. It will solve a lot of problems on breaking keys on John Deer tractors. That is the title on the TH-cam video. Sorry, but I don’t know any other way to send this to you. I asked if you know of a different key design,but this will work. I have been looking for a fix for a few years. Love your channel. Hope my wife and I can see y’all some day. Thanks. PS. I don’t do social media.
Great video I use the road pack on most of my driveways and then dress some up with the clean 3/4 inch rock on top depending on the drainage of their yard so water can pass through easily and get where it needs to go
Neat tires and good ballast.
Looks good. Do you not use the landplane any more for something like this?
Like the land plane better cept that it doesn’t have scarifiers. Didn’t want to take two attachments, so I went with this approach.
That is really nice! How long does that take you? I wish I had that level of skill to work a driveway like that.
Everything Attachments started making a rear blade for compact tractors with hydraulic angle and tilt using diverter valves. It doesn’t appear to be on their website at the moment, but I’ve seen it in their Facebook page.
Hi Tim, thank you for another very educational video. Quick question -How do you bill for box blade/driveway grading? It seems that a lot of the people in my area charge extremely inflated rates for box blade services. Take care
Watch our episode on how to set prices.
Mind if I ask where you got your top link or could you recommend a good place that I could get both the link with matching hoses? I'm looking for one for my tractor and from what I could figure, the min/max length is approx 21" - 32". Also, any "got-ya's" or things to look out for when choosing and/or installing one that you may have run across in your experience would be appreciated. Thanks Tim.
Sometimes folks want to just dump more gravel and spread it around and what you usually get is washboarding. The gravel becomes to thick and the more you drive on it the rougher it becomes.
This reminds me of one of your early vids for sone reason, with your original 1025r and that old ford grader blade !
For a rear blade I went with a frontier RB2060. A couple years ago when I was looking for one, I saw a model that offered tilt, slide, offset and rotate obviously, all manual settings, no hydraulics needed. I honestly can't remember the name of it. It was over $900 for a 5ft which was too much for me at the time. I got my frontier used, but the paint wasn't even scratched and I got it for less than half the price of a new one. I'm very happy with it.
Yay box blade with Tim!
I was wondering if the 25 horse would grade- my driveway is like concrete though think I might need a little bigger great vid
1025r does a fine job on mine - it's a 4-foot box blade I run but works great.
@@Guitaural. Thank you
Fill your bucket with dirt to give the front wheels some work when pulling loads. Really helps get better traction.
Looks pretty smooth honestly, but adding some wheels behind the blade on a small boom will really help. Don't know if you do any welding. Then the top link can be used to adjust how much the blade engages and planes off the high spots. I plan to add some wheels to my grader blade that hinge to an upright position when you don't need them and pin in place when down. Then fill the wheels with fluid and steel parts with concrete as these blades never weight enough to dig in properly.
Looks good, not seeing true grade could it all be pitched to the lawn to avoid future potholes instead of a crown ?.
Typically, you do not want water running across your driveway. Try to keep it aimed toward the sides…the ditches.
That's my rule ,I agree but with a small area.. Good video with the tractor work thanks.@@TractorTimewithTim
We have a nice driveway, until it rains. 1/4 mile of clay. When we moved in we had roadbase laid down, but the first rain it all sank into clay and once again, can’t get down the driveway without getting stuck. How do we address this?
What region of the country?
In general, keep adding rock. An inch or two per year until it stops sinking. In the Midwest at least, it WILL stop sinking.
@@TractorTimewithTim thanks for the reply! We are in southern Colorado. Road is raised up from the surrounding field but just a sloppy mess. We don’t get a lot of rain, but when we do it’s all at once. Any particular size gravel that will work the best?
I am not sure for your area.
But i suspect that it will take several years to get it totally packed in where it holds up.
@@TractorTimewithTim alright. The house was built in the 80’s and had zero maintenance since, so probably the same for the driveway. Hopefully it’s just going to take some intense maintenance for a while and then be drivable.
When I lived in Indiana, I put a thin coat of Number 8s on top of my 53s crusher run base. There was enough dust to lock the 8s on top. But the driveway wasn't as dusty. No. 8s are maybe pea sized, comfortable to walk on but usually too large to get picked up by your shoes and tracked inside.
#8’s are supposed to be 3/4” with no dust. Yes, an inch or so of #8’s looks really nice on top of a base of 53’s or 73’s. Also, eventually, #8’s break down into 73’s…so adding another inch of 8’s becomes necessary.
@@TractorTimewithTim Yes, 8s are clean! I wasn't clear enough: the dust in the top of the 53s seemed enough to lock the 8s and keep the 8s from rolling too much. I learned this from an excavator. And it may have been in southern Ohio that the 8s came in. There they didn't call 53s that like the Hoosiers, however.. Or maybe it was the other way around . . .
I bent my top cylinder rod on my class 2 tractor by tilting too far forward. Just be careful on changing the stress point down to low and pulling really hard.
Hello, Tim! Do you utilize rear wheel spacers?
Only on the 2038r where they are required for the backhoe with this tire type.
@@TractorTimewithTim Do you happen to know which box blade from Tufline you have? Looking at their website now. Thanks again!
TB30 I think.
Great video Tim
Looks great throw the camera lens, keep trying to do the right thing is always a good thing... 🙂👍✌🙏🙏
Where did you get your hydraulic top link? Thanks
shopgreendealer.com/ttwt use code ttwt for a five percent discount.
Thank you
This doesn’t come with hoses?
Matching hoses at discounthydraulichose.com/ttwt
Use code ttwt for a five percent discount.
Sorry I forgot that in the prior message.
Perfect thank you
While I know this is tractor time with Tim, a skid steer would be much more nimble and able to turn around quicker in this smaller area than the long tractor with loader and box blade. Keep up the good work sir! 👍😁
…but then I might need to change my channel name to “Skid Marks”. (My last name is Marks)
@@TractorTimewithTim That would be funny! I think you might have a 2nd channel in the works it seems! 😂🍔🍔
Hilarious 🤣
I use a land pride grade plate and I think it would work easier than a box blade.
Should I mooove!!! Love it.
Great video as always!
I wish I could make it. I live about 30 minutes from you. I work both days. I have a 2020 BX2680 and would love to volunteer to be in a video with you. I've watched your channel for some time and we share similar values. I hope you enjoy your time at the fair. Hopefully our paths cross at some point.
This was awesome. I had to laugh when the lady asked “should I move”? And the man replied “I think I’m going to miss the camera” Never mind the woman 😂 Thank you Folks 👍🏼
I would think it would be helpful to compact that limestone to start it settling so rain doesn’t move anything before it gets packed from traffic.
I was always partial to a rear angle blade. First tool I buy. Last I'll part with.
Is there camping available there?
At Nate’s house???
@@TractorTimewithTim No lol sorry. At the fairgrounds for the meet n greet on the 16th?
Oh, I dunno. I think some folks do. I don’t know about hookups. Maybe you can find out online.
Video #337 on gp outdoors there's a kit he used for a 6ft blade this may work on a smaller 5ft blade for hydro angle adjustment
I want angle AND tilt.
Its ben my experience that the best rock to keep the dust down is gray lime stone not the white witch will cause tons of dust and crown the road to get the water off . Do not put down the scarifiers down and bust up the drive way unless to level the road . This will facilitate the water to get into the road and cause damage.
Tim the 2038r what pto hp is that tractor
Rated at 30
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you tim iv a year 2000 john deere 4400 il be trading her soon im just trying to see in todays john deeres what would be near like for like i run a trimax 190 roller mower behind her
I think you would find a 3R would be more like the frame size of your machine.
Horsepower has increased over the years in a given frame size.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you tim
Sometimes you don't need to bring in the heavy equipment.
I think a lawn tractor with a good electric raiser scar and box bade attachment would have been ideal to do this maintenance / repair job.
Great video
Ventrac and power rake instead for me.
Oh yea!
Put crush and run rock on top ??
are you in the Northeast? I agree, I don't see a lot of C&R on the top in NJ, but seems to be popular elsewhere. Here, people want crushed washed stone on top.
Guys, this IS crush and run (53’s here in Indiana)
@@TractorTimewithTim ok, thanks 😀
Maybe you can do a live broadcast from the fair?
Thanks for showing us how it’s done. Just enough talking to where we could follow along.
Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching!
thanks a lot, now I think I need a hydraulic top link
AgriStoreUSA.com use code ttwt for 5% discount!
Everything attachments has a hydraulic tilt, angle, and offset rear blade option
For small tractors?
@@TractorTimewithTim its 7ft wide at the smallest size
Yea…too big for this size tractor
Vary nice!
Couldn’t you use Vinny on that driveway??
I would have loosed top stone bit. Then run land plane evan it out out.
sounds good in theory, but loading a land plane, box blade, and usually a rake with gauge wheels on a trailer is not practical, even with a 20 or 22' trailer. I do it like Tim did. BB, Rake w wheels, then roll it with a compaction roller. If you know how to use BB you dont need a land plane, esp if you have hydraulic toplink that you can adjust on the fly.
In this situation, perhaps not the worst, but if ever the city becomes involved, you will find sloping a driveway towards a neighbors yard will also require a French drain or catch trough to route it to the street or a basin.
Run off from one yard into another is not very neighborly nor is it legal in most incorporated jurisdictions.
Rewatched!
Kudos to the camera operator. Hopefully it doesn't take too much time away her from Chair of the finance committee duties.
Ha! I like to keep her distracted from the finance chair duties!
Am I the #1 commented on your channel yet Tim? I should be or close if it....
I would think so! Not sure how to find out!
@@TractorTimewithTim let's get that Tractor Tim search engine working on this! Lol
I should be awarded some Tractor Tim merch.... Love the channel Tim!
My biggest frustration is once I get everything graded the way I want, winter comes and sure enough I end up with potholes after I loosened everything in the spring. Oh well, guess that’s why I bought a tractor. Nice job!
If water stands on the roadway, you will get potholes. Grade your drive such that water runs off.
I tilt my box blade to move material for the crown. Right side down, then drive up the right side to move material to the left. Then drive down with the same right side down the road, voila, material will appear for you crown. Then just compact it.
"I think I'm gonna miss the camera"... How about the camera woman? LOL...
Scare a fire... Nor scar. :)
Actually…. Scarifier
Couldn't crown it because you took away half his stone. 😂
Uh, ok.
Land plane
We can produce parts for you, and the cost can be reduced by 40%
every time I try that I end up with a pile of gravel as high as my house. L.0.l.