Per code in some states; zip ties and tape should be used on inside of flex duct. Mastic is also applied to outside of flex duct at joints, over the silver tape. Research how to prevent registers/grilles from dripping moisture during cool mode.
Mr. Johnson.. you guys are awesome. Although retired now, I can tell you that best practices are to foil tape "every" seam both on the suction side and discharge side, including all those seams in the handy swivel joints you are installing. I have used the flex duct and although it is not the most efficient as far as air flow, stick to 6" duct and above and keep the runs short (as I believe you have) and it should perform ok in your small upstairs living quarters. Also, bare metal left exposed will sweat (and eventually rust to destruction) due to the temperature difference (kind of like having a moisture barrier in your outside walls) so insulating any exposed metal ducting is important if you intend to live there for many years. Make sure to test your installation for adequate and intended airflow/temp control for each room, as changes and balancing are easier now than after drywall is installed. I am sure you and your wife are going to do a great job, I admire you both for taking this on and doing such a great job. Stay safe, stay positive, enjoy your great life on the homestead.... Joe
I see comments about internet experts. I'm no internet expert but I am an Air conditioning contractor in Florida for 44 years. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd give you a 4... What you've done is usable but not the best design.Everywhere bare metal is exposed will sweat....Down the road when the unit needs replacing the guy who gets the job is going to hate life . Imagine how tough it will be once insulation and drywall is installed how difficult it will be to get to it or to even work on it...
Can you elaborate on where the “bare metal” is? I see insulated duct work comparable to the mexi-can’t labor that built my first house. Are you talking about the actual vents? Those are always bare metal…
Amazing how ventilation standards vary around the world but at the time so similar. In NZ our commercial flexible ducting is rated at R1.0 so to see R8.0 to suit your conditions is WOW... watching your installation of Flexible ducting is better than how I see it installed here by so called qualified installers. Flexible ducting is a FANS worst enemy for an efficient ventilation system but well done, impressed from someone installing for the first time. My son is an Apprentice HVAC Engineer following in my footsteps and watches your videos I'll make a point to show him how you have installed you system. Good job
Most every home in Albuquerque has the furnace in the attic, no basements. The registers are in the ceiling and the return is either in the ceiling or upper side wall. The bad part is the attic gets so hot in the summer the insulated duct gets heated. When the refrigerated air comes on you first get a blast of heat till the ducts cool too. Over time some of those flex ducts can collapse so need to be checked. Heat can take the temper out of the wire.
you have made good progress, about the duct work. with that flex you want to use those panduit straps on the inner jacket, they make a hand tool to tighten and it also cuts off the excess. I like to do it twice to make sure its tight, then you can also get some short 1/4 inch sheet metal screws to run a couple in the straps to hold them in place. then you can wrap with tape to seal, then the insolation jacket it helps to roll the outside lip inward and then use the same straps and tighten down that over the inner jacket so it keeps the insolation in the jacket and holds it in place otherwise you can run the risk of them blowing off of the registers. I dont get into much ductwork since im in commercial work but what little we do work on thats how we do it. I have seen them blown apart and normally not in a fun place to try to get back into to repair. If you only taped the inner jacket it would be worth going back and strapping those down. Otherwise a good video.
Yes, except ironically duct tape is poorly suited for ducting. I dries out and its adhesive fails within a few years. Cellophane "technical" tapes (eg Tuck Tape) or aluminium foil tapes are the generally accepted ducting sealant/connective tape nowadays
strait heat job, so 7-6" outlets will work here. 14" return is good for 700 cfm. the house will need a small 40,000 furnace. Fun times building your own house.
How do you service the unit when it's in that ceiling, why isn't the return near the floor and why aren't you using metal tape on all the joints or duct butter, You need to tape all that insulation down to the metal joints, even if you have big zip ties. Just a few questions and suggestions, thanks.
Great to watch you guys from here in the UK however Martin don't tighten the zip ties too much as you are crushing the insulation, which will allow heat to escape. Try zip tying the inner core tight and the insulation less so. hope this helps.
Marty, I think you need to have scaffolding to mitigate chances of falling down while working on ceiling stuff. I love to see if you can make it on your own.
The duct you are using can be crushed, but it takes a lot. It's worse fail point is water. With your duct work in the attic, you wont have that issue. When I installed ductwork for a living, we had to seal all the metal joints, seal the duct to eye connections and zip tie both inner and outer parts of the duct. CA allows for a very small % of air loss. The problem with an air tight home for energy efficiency; one trades off the health benefits of fresh air inside the home. As we have become for energy efficient, we have caused more illnesses from stagnant air in our homes. Something to think about.
It's not about installing the duct that's grunt work it's about the layout of all the supply lines for each room and the engineering involved to spec it out and pass inspection
Having done HVAC work I can say of all the insulation types you normally run into the worst is the stuff used inside the square sheet metal ducts for sound. You itch all day after working with the stuff and the glue used is not fun.
Shouldn't your return air ducting be down at the floor level if you're trying to recirculate the colder air? Your putting out warm air from the ceiling vents, and warm air rises, so then you are just re-grabbing that warm air to heat it again.
Just a question not any sort of criticism Should your return air not be at floor level As I understand HVAC if heat is coming in the top return air should be on the bottom or you will have cold floors Like I said just a question All the best from Allenford, Ontario, Canada
In the two bedrooms you created nooks by not running the closet the full width of the wall. Assuming the nooks are for a future dresser or desk you may add an upper cabinet above a desk. This future upper cabinet would interfere /block the heat register you placed tight against the wall. Consider mounting the heat register 18" to 24" away from the face of the wall to accommodate future changes.
I’ve done HVAC for years. You never wanna run flex line more than 6 feet. You should hard duct it everywhere and then insulate around it. Flex stack becomes handy one are you going to venting but only on a very short run. You lose CFM with the more Flex talk to you right. Sizing the duct properly is also important. Best get your info from an experienced HVAC man.
There are formulas for sizing based on length of run and BTU and a couple other factors. Should check the charts before you throw something in. Stick with an experienced HVAC guy that you trust.
I'm so impressed with what you guys can do and what you achieve. Love the videos and quality of them. And really enjoy the peoples in it. Thanks for these awesome videos.
5:46 I see why safety Sally had to be put away 😂. Did you consider other options? I see some homes built with actual ductwork where it is like square metal.
@@redbud815 I don't know and maybe someone else in the comment will chime in but I thought it might be cheaper and a superior product because the tubing is insulated.
@@CoderToHomesteader Of course opinions vary. :-) Some experts recommend against flexible insulated tubing. Two reasons. 1. Over time, it is easy to crush, and maybe tape comes loose. 2. The insulation is thin, which leads to condensation issues in your attic or tubing or both. The easiest way to avoid condensation is to insulate the whole attic (i.e., the roof above, not the ceiling below). And if you're doing that, the ductwork can be plain metal.
I know from one of your earlier videos you said that you had a tool leftover from your HVAC days. David Morris is right, there should be some sheet metal screws to hold things together. Between the heat and the vibration of the fan running I believe it will shake itself apart. Duct tape should only be used to seal it, not to hold it together. Don’t know what made you purchase a Goodman, price point maybe. Although Goodman has one of the better heat exchangers on the market, their controls leave much to be desired. Don’t know what the code is in Idaho but just because it meets code, doesn’t mean its right. You have a return coming in thru just a 14 inch diameter hole in one side of the furnace (to say the least the side with the blower motor, that is blocking most of the squirrel cage.) should be a 16x20 or 25 inch opening or better yet feed from the bottom. Your setup is going to reduce the air flow across half of the heat exchanger that will destroy it. Most likely the secondary will fail first. Between the Goodman controls and the return ductwork setup - even more reason not to have it in the rafters. I say all this for your benefit, as for me being in Georgia, I will not be getting a service call from you.
I'm wondering if y'all would have done well to insulate the roof prior to the duct work. Hopefully it won't be too much trouble for y'all when it comes time for that project.
So I noticed you only have one big cold-air return for the whole system. If you don't have cold air returns in the bedrooms, then when the door is closed, the incoming air won't have anywhere to go, and basically, you won't heat the bedrooms. My in-laws have a really old house, and they cut the bottom off their bedroom doors to allow air flow even when the door is closed. Not a great solution, but better than nothing.
If he is installing his registers into the ceiling then no you don’t want to put your return in the ceiling. Every mechanical engineer will design their systems to pull stale air from every part of your building envelope. It has absolutely nothing to do with air temperature.
@@fredj6278 Just to play devils advocate and indeed not to argue. I am not pro at this. I'd never claim to be. However, once they install some ceiling fans, like 99% of most homeowners do (especially with high ceilings) that argument becomes null and void no? Using ceiling fans same applies to stale air as the "just a guy" replied as well.
@@redbud815 For heating only applications, a low return duct is ideal to bring back the coldest air otherwise stagnant in the room. This is true regardless of the supply register location, floor or ceiling
@ Marty Did you guys ever think of installing a ACoil and run down a lineset for Air conditioning . You made it hard to service the furnace also . Make sure you have the exhaust pipe pitched right or the furnace will shut down from the trap being flooded by back up water that drained in the trap . Also did you place a float switch so if something would go wrong the furnace will shut down if the drain or trap get clogged up. The A coil from Goodman comes pre charged with nitrogen 400 lb. You would been better off going with a Lennox unit or weather maker or Payne . Goodman not the best quality you guys mite have problems down the road . I've installed many Goodman and there just problematic . The higher the price you pay for them and more options likemodulating furnace or two stage
It’s been 2-years How about an update on just how much of the flex duct that your friendly neighborhood Forest critters have eaten up & made unto Swiss-cheese ducts instead?.
As always once the video is released it is too late for comments to help. But having the "cold air" return so high combined with the hot air registers in the ceiling is already a problem. The intent of a cold air return is to take the cold air from floor level and draw it back into the furnace for heating which minimizes the vertical temperature profile in a room. As built your return duct will end up recirculating a lot of hot air and there will be a definite heat stratification up high. Your head and shoulders will be warm but odds are your hips down will be noticeably cooler and your feet could actually be cold depending on how well you insulate the floor from the garage below. You will need ceiling fans or something to pull the hot register air down and mix it with the cold air down low. (Ideally of course that cold air return would be moved down to, or at least very near, floor level. I know it is a big duct that would need a large chase built around it but you cannot beat physics and thermodynamics!) Other comments regarding return vents for the closed in bedrooms, bathroom and laundry room are equally valid and need to be addressed somehow. Even if it is only cutting a rectangle low in the door and putting grills on each side for privacy and sound reduction.
Houses arnt built with returns in the bedrooms. Just doesn’t happen and the main return in the ceiling isn’t ideal but it’s also common, especially for small areas like this
@@bamastead5126 Certainly not all houses, especially home-owner built and older homes have returns in bedrooms but to say "just doesn't happen" is a far over-reaching generality. Most current building building codes require them and every home I've lived in with a central forced air heating system has had them. Efficacy varies, especially in older homes but they are generally installed for forced air heated homes and often to provide adequate ventilation in "tightly" insulated and vapour barrier protected homes that have baseboard or floor based radiant heating. What Marty and Julie do in a region with minimal building codes is up to them, but basic heating and ventilation principles still apply and there are consequences for not following them. Will it matter to them, probably not as we have seen Marty ignore posted advise many a time. It's their house so they can make their choices and face the consequences of those choices and either live with them or develop a work around if the consequences bother them.
@@68Jaguar420G I get ya and I know it’s done but I spent 5 years in general construction working on custom homes and cookie cutter homes and I’ve only ever seen 1 or 2 returns in a home. Good idea yes but common ? In my experience it’s not but we probably live in different areas so where you are it might be common practice, for me.... I’ve literally never seen it
When you go to replace the duct tape, use foil backed tape; stronger and longer adhesion. Heat resistant, too. I'm also wondering why the "cold air" return isn't located near the floor. two or three runs between studs would give you the same return area and prevent thermal "layering".
American standards are hard to comprehend, eg in Australia we MUST have Licensed people installing electrics, plumbing etc, so difficult to comprehend how you can do it.
Almost all air handlers in Texas are in the attic its not an issue unless you lack attic space. Servicing can be a problem that must be addressed before installing the system.
Per code in some states; zip ties and tape should be used on inside of flex duct. Mastic is also applied to outside of flex duct at joints, over the silver tape. Research how to prevent registers/grilles from dripping moisture during cool mode.
I would recommend adding some sheet metal screws to be absolutely sure the tape didnt dry out and fail. Particularly at the metal to metal joints.
Mr. Johnson.. you guys are awesome. Although retired now, I can tell you that best practices are to foil tape "every" seam both on the suction side and discharge side, including all those seams in the handy swivel joints you are installing. I have used the flex duct and although it is not the most efficient as far as air flow, stick to 6" duct and above and keep the runs short (as I believe you have) and it should perform ok in your small upstairs living quarters. Also, bare metal left exposed will sweat (and eventually rust to destruction) due to the temperature difference (kind of like having a moisture barrier in your outside walls) so insulating any exposed metal ducting is important if you intend to live there for many years. Make sure to test your installation for adequate and intended airflow/temp control for each room, as changes and balancing are easier now than after drywall is installed. I am sure you and your wife are going to do a great job, I admire you both for taking this on and doing such a great job. Stay safe, stay positive, enjoy your great life on the homestead.... Joe
I see comments about internet experts. I'm no internet expert but I am an Air conditioning contractor in Florida for 44 years. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd give you a 4... What you've done is usable but not the best design.Everywhere bare metal is exposed will sweat....Down the road when the unit needs replacing the guy who gets the job is going to hate life . Imagine how tough it will be once insulation and drywall is installed how difficult it will be to get to it or to even work on it...
Like you said, it'll work but it's a 3-4 maybe ? He won't listen.
Can you elaborate on where the “bare metal” is? I see insulated duct work comparable to the mexi-can’t labor that built my first house. Are you talking about the actual vents? Those are always bare metal…
Oh I see, looks like he didn’t insulate his box. Yikes
Why not just get a minisplit
Amazing how ventilation standards vary around the world but at the time so similar.
In NZ our commercial flexible ducting is rated at R1.0 so to see R8.0 to suit your conditions is WOW... watching your installation of Flexible ducting is better than how I see it installed here by so called qualified installers. Flexible ducting is a FANS worst enemy for an efficient ventilation system but well done, impressed from someone installing for the first time.
My son is an Apprentice HVAC Engineer following in my footsteps and watches your videos I'll make a point to show him how you have installed you system.
Good job
Most every home in Albuquerque has the furnace in the attic, no basements. The registers are in the ceiling and the return is either in the ceiling or upper side wall. The bad part is the attic gets so hot in the summer the insulated duct gets heated. When the refrigerated air comes on you first get a blast of heat till the ducts cool too. Over time some of those flex ducts can collapse so need to be checked. Heat can take the temper out of the wire.
you have made good progress, about the duct work. with that flex you want to use those panduit straps on the inner jacket, they make a hand tool to tighten and it also cuts off the excess. I like to do it twice to make sure its tight, then you can also get some short 1/4 inch sheet metal screws to run a couple in the straps to hold them in place. then you can wrap with tape to seal, then the insolation jacket it helps to roll the outside lip inward and then use the same straps and tighten down that over the inner jacket so it keeps the insolation in the jacket and holds it in place otherwise you can run the risk of them blowing off of the registers. I dont get into much ductwork since im in commercial work but what little we do work on thats how we do it. I have seen them blown apart and normally not in a fun place to try to get back into to repair. If you only taped the inner jacket it would be worth going back and strapping those down. Otherwise a good video.
make sure all your joints are sealed well. this is super important.use silver tape over the duct tape
I agree. Use the silver tape with the peel-off backing.
Got to leave room for mice to get out 👍🤪
@@rogerkerkmann
lol nothing like the smell of dead rodents lol
Yall are an inspiration
Our 70yo neighbor nana commented and laughed "why on earth is he dangling like that?" 😁.
Julie is so pretty and hard working..
Very interesting to see duct tape actually used for what it was invented for. You both make things look so easy and do-able!
Surprisingly it's terrible for ducts tbh
It's better to use foil tape not duct tape lol
Yes, except ironically duct tape is poorly suited for ducting. I dries out and its adhesive fails within a few years. Cellophane "technical" tapes (eg Tuck Tape) or aluminium foil tapes are the generally accepted ducting sealant/connective tape nowadays
@@68Jaguar420G that is indeed correct
The name duct tape is misleading tbh
they will find out in a few heating seasons that it should of ben foil tape instead
@@me-ry8jg yep haha
strait heat job, so 7-6" outlets will work here. 14" return is good for 700 cfm. the house will need a small 40,000 furnace. Fun times building your own house.
Wow that duct tape pipe pop out like Jack "N" the box looking fantastic guys safety Sally didn't like being put on the back burner good 👍work
I've doubled-up zip ties like that (technique, not 3 ft. long...) to secure my networking equipment to my pegboard.
Foil tape works better than "duct tape Most of the duct tape will be loose after a few years
I thought about commenting on this as well. Duck tape is not recommended!
he needs to use duct tape. he is using duck tape.
I just found some duck tape in our attic and it was holding strong as heck! I had to use a screwdriver to open the old ductwork.
How do you service the unit when it's in that ceiling, why isn't the return near the floor and why aren't you using metal tape on all the joints or duct butter, You need to tape all that insulation down to the metal joints, even if you have big zip ties. Just a few questions and suggestions, thanks.
They make a zip tie gun that cinches them down super tight and cuts the excess off at maximum attainable tension.
A small suggestion is getting the return near the floor, making the unit more comfortable in cold weather. I’m a 40+ year HVAC&R tech.
I've installed thousands of ceiling returns ..they work just fine
@@dentonterry4540 if you like cold floors in cold weather
Ya guys are getting really Ducky good job
You guys are doing a great job!!!!! May you enjoy Your new home for years and years and years to come!!! Stay blessed 🙌
Great to watch you guys from here in the UK however Martin don't tighten the zip ties too much as you are crushing the insulation, which will allow heat to escape. Try zip tying the inner core tight and the insulation less so. hope this helps.
Those lights look nice, super bright and easy to install. :)
Normally the cold air return would be lower...
There is some aluminium tape made for duct work.
at 1.40 you should use 3 screws to secure the round pipe to the take off. before usinf foil duct tape.
Great work guys
The inner liner needs to be pulled tight. Less than 4% compression
What do you mean by pulled tight?
Moving right along!
i give all your videos thumbs up , you guys are amazing !!!! thanks for your content and thank you for sharing your journey with us
Those zip ties are massive, like the ones the cops use when they run out of handcuffs, only the ones you have could be used on an elephant. lol :)
...good one, stay safe...
Thanks!
You could have came from the bottom of the furnace for that 14" return. Is there a filter installed anywhere??
You guys should've put dampers in the wyes to adjust the air flow.
put the dampers in the register can, so you can tune the flow for each room...
6:40 man down. Send pancakes
Good work
Marty, I think you need to have scaffolding to mitigate chances of falling down while working on ceiling stuff. I love to see if you can make it on your own.
The duct you are using can be crushed, but it takes a lot. It's worse fail point is water. With your duct work in the attic, you wont have that issue. When I installed ductwork for a living, we had to seal all the metal joints, seal the duct to eye connections and zip tie both inner and outer parts of the duct. CA allows for a very small % of air loss.
The problem with an air tight home for energy efficiency; one trades off the health benefits of fresh air inside the home. As we have become for energy efficient, we have caused more illnesses from stagnant air in our homes.
Something to think about.
Very bad install.
It's not about installing the duct that's grunt work it's about the layout of all the supply lines for each room and the engineering involved to spec it out and pass inspection
Having done HVAC work I can say of all the insulation types you normally run into the worst is the stuff used inside the square sheet metal ducts for sound. You itch all day after working with the stuff and the glue used is not fun.
I hear that, did that alot when I was younger.
Courage from Montreal 👍
Shouldn't your return air ducting be down at the floor level if you're trying to recirculate the colder air? Your putting out warm air from the ceiling vents, and warm air rises, so then you are just re-grabbing that warm air to heat it again.
Yes, it should.
No its fine
Just a question not any sort of criticism Should your return air not be at floor level As I understand HVAC if heat is coming in the top return air should be on the bottom or you will have cold floors Like I said just a question All the best from Allenford, Ontario, Canada
You are correct !
You need to tape the gores on the 14inch elbows but not to far you can’t hook up flex
I also do the same thing
Sally is one creepy doll.
In the two bedrooms you created nooks by not running the closet the full width of the wall. Assuming the nooks are for a future dresser or desk you may add an upper cabinet above a desk. This future upper cabinet would interfere /block the heat register you placed tight against the wall. Consider mounting the heat register 18" to 24" away from the face of the wall to accommodate future changes.
You might be overthinking that just a bit.
I’ve done HVAC for years. You never wanna run flex line more than 6 feet. You should hard duct it everywhere and then insulate around it. Flex stack becomes handy one are you going to venting but only on a very short run. You lose CFM with the more Flex talk to you right. Sizing the duct properly is also important. Best get your info from an experienced HVAC man.
Evidently talk texting is not too accurate. Let me restate it.
Flex duct becomes handy once you are close to a vent for connection.
You lose CFM with the more flex duct that you run. In other words you lose pressure.
There are formulas for sizing based on length of run and BTU and a couple other factors. Should check the charts before you throw something in. Stick with an experienced HVAC guy that you trust.
Great job. Any reason why a split ac system is not opted ?
Cold return needs to be close to the floor
Shouldn't make Safety Sally mad, she might sneak up on you in your sleep. lol :)
I'm so impressed with what you guys can do and what you achieve. Love the videos and quality of them. And really enjoy the peoples in it. Thanks for these awesome videos.
Brrrr going to have some cold feet in that apartment
I enjoy your videos, wondering why you didn't insulate the ceiling before all the duct work was in the way.
Insulation is done after.
What kind of doll is safety sally? Its so cool that the eyes blink when you bump her feet 4:19
Should the cold air return be mounted low since the hot air supply is mounted high?
Yes, the return should have been low. But it still should work fine.
5:46 I see why safety Sally had to be put away 😂. Did you consider other options? I see some homes built with actual ductwork where it is like square metal.
I assume the way they went was to cut costs some. That tubing has to be cheaper than the metal ductwork.
Metal ducting mostly / good for suction or returning air 🤔
@@redbud815 I don't know and maybe someone else in the comment will chime in but I thought it might be cheaper and a superior product because the tubing is insulated.
@@CoderToHomesteader That's a fair and valid point indeed. I'm curious to hear others chime in on it as well.
@@CoderToHomesteader Of course opinions vary. :-) Some experts recommend against flexible insulated tubing. Two reasons. 1. Over time, it is easy to crush, and maybe tape comes loose. 2. The insulation is thin, which leads to condensation issues in your attic or tubing or both. The easiest way to avoid condensation is to insulate the whole attic (i.e., the roof above, not the ceiling below). And if you're doing that, the ductwork can be plain metal.
Beam me up Martin. Lol
I know from one of your earlier videos you said that you had a tool leftover from your HVAC days. David Morris is right, there should be some sheet metal screws to hold things together. Between the heat and the vibration of the fan running I believe it will shake itself apart. Duct tape should only be used to seal it, not to hold it together. Don’t know what made you purchase a Goodman, price point maybe. Although Goodman has one of the better heat exchangers on the market, their controls leave much to be desired. Don’t know what the code is in Idaho but just because it meets code, doesn’t mean its right. You have a return coming in thru just a 14 inch diameter hole in one side of the furnace (to say the least the side with the blower motor, that is blocking most of the squirrel cage.) should be a 16x20 or 25 inch opening or better yet feed from the bottom. Your setup is going to reduce the air flow across half of the heat exchanger that will destroy it. Most likely the secondary will fail first. Between the Goodman controls and the return ductwork setup - even more reason not to have it in the rafters. I say all this for your benefit, as for me being in Georgia, I will not be getting a service call from you.
It's like a fur coat for air. lol :)
Awesome video! How did you generate a material list to give to the HVAC supplier?
The ac guy planned it and we installed it.
You bought a 12' step ladder, so proud. Doesn't that feel good (stable) when you're up at the ceiling?
Progress, will be done soon.
What determines the different size flex tube?
Looking great, do u need to protect the ducting for ur nail plates ?
I'm wondering if y'all would have done well to insulate the roof prior to the duct work. Hopefully it won't be too much trouble for y'all when it comes time for that project.
I thought they were going to insulate the roof, but the use of insulated air ducts suggests they're planning on insulating the ceiling. Well, I dunno.
@@dper1112 - Hard to say. You just never know with these two. 🤣
I don’t know what I’m talking about but shouldn’t the return be closer to the floor?
You do know and yes, it should be.
Hello sir i need job hvac duct febrication and installation
Notice you’re still wearing coats is it still cool there?
So I noticed you only have one big cold-air return for the whole system. If you don't have cold air returns in the bedrooms, then when the door is closed, the incoming air won't have anywhere to go, and basically, you won't heat the bedrooms. My in-laws have a really old house, and they cut the bottom off their bedroom doors to allow air flow even when the door is closed. Not a great solution, but better than nothing.
Halo pak martin..
응원합니다
Surprised you put the cold air return so high.
@Richard Charles It is better served putting it lower
If he is installing his registers into the ceiling then no you don’t want to put your return in the ceiling. Every mechanical engineer will design their systems to pull stale air from every part of your building envelope. It has absolutely nothing to do with air temperature.
Yes I was thinking the same TBH. I always thought cold air return is lower seeing how heat rises and all, but I'm no pro.
@@fredj6278 Just to play devils advocate and indeed not to argue. I am not pro at this. I'd never claim to be. However, once they install some ceiling fans, like 99% of most homeowners do (especially with high ceilings) that argument becomes null and void no? Using ceiling fans same applies to stale air as the "just a guy" replied as well.
@@redbud815 For heating only applications, a low return duct is ideal to bring back the coldest air otherwise stagnant in the room. This is true regardless of the supply register location, floor or ceiling
@ Marty
Did you guys ever think of installing a ACoil and run down a lineset for Air conditioning .
You made it hard to service the furnace also .
Make sure you have the exhaust pipe pitched right or the furnace will shut down from the trap being flooded by back up water that drained in the trap .
Also did you place a float switch so if something would go wrong the furnace will shut down if the drain or trap get clogged up.
The A coil from Goodman comes pre charged with nitrogen 400 lb.
You would been better off going with a Lennox unit or weather maker or Payne .
Goodman not the best quality you guys mite have problems down the road .
I've installed many Goodman and there just problematic .
The higher the price you pay for them and more options likemodulating furnace or two stage
Duck tape Were not last on Heaters.
👍👍👍👌❤❤❤
Here is the thing no one thinks about with flex duct. 15 years 20 max before the duct is garbage with a hope and a dream. Have to replace it all!!!
Awesome doing things yourself.👍 But yes masks,goggles...
👍👍👍
Why are the registers so high..are you predominantly doing air conditioning?
What Do You Going Sarah ?
It’s been 2-years
How about an update on just how much of the flex duct that your friendly neighborhood Forest critters have eaten up & made unto Swiss-cheese ducts instead?.
Pak Sarah Johnson Kenapa tidak membuat konten
Creepy safety Sally looks like Chucky in the box. Weird
I see all the IE's (Internet Experts) are out in force today. Please take them with a grain of salt. Thanks for sharing with us.
But a lot of the tips in the posts are correct. Like silver foil tape should be used and the return should have been low.
@@search_eternal
will it work? sure
Very good ? Nope
As always once the video is released it is too late for comments to help. But having the "cold air" return so high combined with the hot air registers in the ceiling is already a problem. The intent of a cold air return is to take the cold air from floor level and draw it back into the furnace for heating which minimizes the vertical temperature profile in a room. As built your return duct will end up recirculating a lot of hot air and there will be a definite heat stratification up high. Your head and shoulders will be warm but odds are your hips down will be noticeably cooler and your feet could actually be cold depending on how well you insulate the floor from the garage below. You will need ceiling fans or something to pull the hot register air down and mix it with the cold air down low. (Ideally of course that cold air return would be moved down to, or at least very near, floor level. I know it is a big duct that would need a large chase built around it but you cannot beat physics and thermodynamics!) Other comments regarding return vents for the closed in bedrooms, bathroom and laundry room are equally valid and need to be addressed somehow. Even if it is only cutting a rectangle low in the door and putting grills on each side for privacy and sound reduction.
Houses arnt built with returns in the bedrooms. Just doesn’t happen and the main return in the ceiling isn’t ideal but it’s also common, especially for small areas like this
@@bamastead5126 Certainly not all houses, especially home-owner built and older homes have returns in bedrooms but to say "just doesn't happen" is a far over-reaching generality. Most current building building codes require them and every home I've lived in with a central forced air heating system has had them. Efficacy varies, especially in older homes but they are generally installed for forced air heated homes and often to provide adequate ventilation in "tightly" insulated and vapour barrier protected homes that have baseboard or floor based radiant heating. What Marty and Julie do in a region with minimal building codes is up to them, but basic heating and ventilation principles still apply and there are consequences for not following them. Will it matter to them, probably not as we have seen Marty ignore posted advise many a time. It's their house so they can make their choices and face the consequences of those choices and either live with them or develop a work around if the consequences bother them.
@@68Jaguar420G I get ya and I know it’s done but I spent 5 years in general construction working on custom homes and cookie cutter homes and I’ve only ever seen 1 or 2 returns in a home. Good idea yes but common ? In my experience it’s not but we probably live in different areas so where you are it might be common practice, for me.... I’ve literally never seen it
Did Safety Sally bust the both of you for standing on the TOP of your ladders? Or no safety glasses when handling the duct insulation?
Martin I have to ask, with all the heating and air conditioning going in and the extra electrical. Are you all going on the grid?
It is a propane furnace. The electric draw will be relatively small.
If I have a 6” register box what size should I use for the flex duct?
ask a professional
6”
When you go to replace the duct tape, use foil backed tape; stronger and longer adhesion. Heat resistant, too. I'm also wondering why the "cold air" return isn't located near the floor. two or three runs between studs would give you the same return area and prevent thermal "layering".
Just asked the same thing about all you said. This install is sub-par.
Apa kabar pak martin🙏
Marty, is it a Heating and A/C system or just heating?
Looks like it's just for heating since there was no A/C coil connected to the furnace.
Previous video he said propane furnace. Heating.
Why so many 6” runs? Did you have this engineered. You are only looking at apx. 90-100 CFM….
How many should it have been?
American standards are hard to comprehend, eg in Australia we MUST have Licensed people installing electrics, plumbing etc, so difficult to comprehend how you can do it.
A little more free I guess. Saves a lot of money too.
You are definitely over-tightening those zip ties?
Um, no. They're actually not tight enough and the whole install will work, but is way below what we do.
your furnace is not supposed to be an attic it should be downstairs in the basement or on the main level not in the attic
It's ok because the roof is under the basement.
@@RealDeanWinchester, Huh ????
@@augustreil weird, right?
Almost all air handlers in Texas are in the attic its not an issue unless you lack attic space. Servicing can be a problem that must be addressed before installing the system.
Any exposed metal will sweat
So what should you do with metal Wyes, that the flex ducts attach to that split the duct run. Those will be exposed metal for my AC. Thanks.
Tape all joints. just sayind
HvA sYsTeM 😂