Revived! 1956 Spalding Top Flite Synchro-Dyned Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2024
- Refresh your old golf clubs with this step-by-step restoration tutorial on the 1956 Spalding Top Flite Synchro-Dyned. Follow the instructions to give your vintage golf clubs a new life.
Sit back, relax, and watch this incredible transformation.
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YOU can do this golf club polishing, restoration and refurbishment at home. I'm a complete idiot. If I can do this, so can you.
Do this at home! Follow the equipment links below to help support the channel.
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#restoration #restorationvideos #golf #diy - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This man is a restoration legend!! Amazing
Thanks, brother.
Nice work - really great finish. Just a shame we didn't see it re-shafted and hitting balls to round things off.
Pretty inspiring to see something that would typically be discarded, be set for a new life. Love it.
Great comment! I couldn't agree more.
The sharp leading edge and lack of, or even negative bounce, on those old irons is crazy. Awesome job on those. Beautiful.
Thanks Nick. They're shovels for me for sure. The bright nickel with against the paint colors really makes it pop.
incredible! makes me want to go play 9 with some old clubs! Great job
Play a vintage 9!
Great work as always Brad. Love the back story on being part of the set your father gave your brother. Love Synchro Dyned irons but makes these are extra special.
Another amazing job Brad. Loving the new equipment upgrades!
Thank you, Mark. Man, that saved so much time and it's just a bolt-on for a bench grinder.
Interesting, got me looking! Need a bigger garage!
Thankl you so much Brad....👍😉
Genius at work
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First-class restoration. It's great to see old clubs being brought back to life. I wonder how far it can carry a new golf ball?
Thank you! Next time I'll hit a few before I dive in!
I really liked the rusted patina look before the electro clean
That did look cool. I wish there was a way to preserve that look.
Love your videos, fellow Kansas Citian! I’ve been wanting to do this myself for a while. Thank you for all your vids.
816 in the house! There are a ton of tutorials on the channel and more on the way. Reach out with any questions and I'd be happy to help.
Great job, you're a clever guy.
Would love to see it with new shaft and grip and then see how it hits
Found this by chance , stunning work!
Thank you. Consider subscribing and sharing with a friend! Also, I answer all the questions you may have and encourage you to try it at home.
Been a while since I've seen the plating bath... Very sharp
Thank you, sir!
Beautiful work again!
Thanks!
Another great job! Curious about the shaft, I have never encountered a threaded shaft. Was that an attachment affixed to the shaft, or was that a specialty shaft for Spaulding clubs? Always great to see your work, very inspiring.
Thank you, Greg. Some older clubs had threaded shafts, some had the pin, and some had both. Modern epoxy seems to hold up as well as these methods, so you won't see them in anything from probably the 80s on.
I really had to take the heat to the hosel it to get it free. They turn opposite of the direction of the club face so impact actually keeps them tight on the shaft.
Happy Father's day if you have kiddos.
Very nice job . Love your videos man.
Thank you. Good to hear from you. Hope you're well!
Another great job Brad, i am going to give that nickel covering ago cheers
Thanks Alan. Practice on a junk club and let me know if you have any questions.
Also, on the tank set up: I'd get a deeper container so you can hang the club by the hole in the hosel with the toe pointing down. I'll do an update video with the details. It's a cleaner way to hang the club.
Incredible work. These videos are absolutely superb! Could I ask how long you leave the club head in the acid solution? Is it just a judgement thing or do you have a set time period?
Thank you. It's arbitrary, but I'd say 15 minutes is good. You'll see it change colors. It it's not enough. You can dip it again, but the sanding will take care of any leftovers.
Do you end up selling these or what happens to them? Some REALLY great wall hangers at the very least!
beautiful!
Thank you. If you like these, check out the Macgregor Copper face or the Wilson Dyna-Power videos. Those are my favorite transformations.
Are these full sets ?😁😎👍👍👍👍great job as always!!!!
Thanks! No, lately, I've been finding individual, unique clubs that are attractive to me that I want to bring back to life. I like anything with interesting shapes, fonts, and decorative details.
@@BradMeehan ❤️
Stumbled on your account a week ago and I’m obsessed with it now! Love your work! I went out and got myself a buffing wheel and brought life back to my clubs…. I love the look of the club after you hit it with the abrasive blaster, should I do this to my clubs which are fairly new and I play regularly? Or is this just for your wall hangers that won’t be used to play…
You can play with them! Absolutely. The nickel isn't as tough as the original chrome layer, but once you learn this technique, you'll just have to drop the club in the plating solution again for a fresh layer.
At the 6:00 mark, after all the polishing, there's still an orange coloring on the club in certain areas. What is that? It appears you're able to nickel plate right over it. Great work as always!
It's copper. You can plate over it with nickel. Mizuno have a layer of copper on their clubs too.
Thank you!
so good!!
I appreciate it! The shiny bright nickel against the paint fill looks so good in person.
Nickel plate, no chrome? Just curious. Looks great, excellent job.
It's called Bright Nickel. Chrome is expensive and carries a lot of safety concerns. Caswell sells a copy chrome kit. I've tried it on a small scale but not on a club. It's about twice the price of nickel but is supposed to be more durable.
How long to you leave it in the plating tank? Ive made the exact same setup as you and my results vary greatly. My problem is I'm getting big deposits of random nickel spots. I am also using the electro cleaner before every plate too.
I leave it in there about 2 hours at 3.5 volts and .5 amps. The distance between the anode and the club matter too. Can you share some pictures? My email is on my channel page.
Brad, VERY interested in that grinder belt sander attachment Sir, might you have a link to that one?? Thank you so much for all this effort Brad, it DOES make a difference...😉😉
Sweet. Thank you. I'm glad I've found my people!
Take a look at the Polishing section on the storefront. It's called the Multitool attachment. I got the belts on golfworx.
www.amazon.com/shop/bradmeehan
wow
Do you dispose of the acid after each club and start over fresh for the next one or do you reuse it again?
Brad. Really enjoy your videos. What’s the best way to smooth out “bag chatter” on an old 8882 Blade putter. Do you ever tumble polish the head?
I've never done tumbling. I can imagine it would take a long time. I think you'd have more control over doing it by hand. Sanding and polishing is the only way to remove the chatter.
Is the putter chrome plated?
Beautiful!!! You blasted the club face before plating this time versus after. Which do you prefer for the results?
Hey, sarge. Happy Father's day.
I prefer doing the blasting before only because I've nicked the plating on a club when I did it after. And, there's a tinge of dark spots left when i before. I like the uniform look of the same tint of color from doing it this way.
Love your work. Is there a safer way to remove rust on a golf club then using the acid ??
Even vinegar would work but it's slooooow. It's also an acid, though. There are products at auto parts stores like Evapo-Rust that could work. I restored an old motorcycle and the muriatic acid worked the best for heavily rusted parts.
Hey brad, great video again! I want to replicate this (at least at the polishing level) and I am curious about which compounds you're using with each wheel.
Thabk you.
Check out a post I made a few days ago of a compound color chart. The chart that shows each compound color and their use. Then, if you watch a few of the other restoration videos I made, I generally show on the bottom of the screen which color and which wheel I'm using.
Most of my time is spent on the sisal wheel, then the denim using black, brown, and white. Then I put the shine on it with the loose cotton and some green. The chart says blue, but green seems to look better to me.
Hit me up with questions.
As always, great work. What becomes of the clubs after restoration?
The big EBay in the sky, or wall art.
@@BradMeehan You should do a video of your finished clubs wall art.
Would i be able to send you my irons for same treatment. But reinstalled back onto the shafts? There “Vintage Mcgregor Tommy Armour-Ironmaster 234’s” (2-9 irons)
Thanks Richard. I'm just doing this as a hobby.
Are you plating the nickel over the chrome? As in you don't have to remove the chrome before nickel plating?
The diluted muriatic acid bath removes the rust and thin layer of chrome. Sanding takes away the rest if there was any remaining. I also have a chrome stripping solution that works well. I made a video of it. But the acid is easiest. It's sold as a pool cleaner.
How long do you leave a club head in the nickel solution ? How long does it take to get that finish ?
I played a quick 9 and took it out. I'm sure there's a formula but 2 - 3 hours will do it.
What are you using for those bags on the anodes?
They're called Anode Bags, but you can use any fine muslin cloth like this: amzn.to/3dsoFNa
Hey brad whats the machine called that you use the scotch brite belts ?? I need myself one of them
@@JGarrett_PGAPro it's great. It's called a Multi-tool attachment. Check out the equipment links in the description to see one. Thanks!
@BradMeehan thanks so much will do keep up the great tutorials they have been a massive help 😀
Just found your channel. I love your work. I have set of Cleveland TA5 gunmetal irons. Is there a way to polish those the bring back the luster?
An inexpensive test would be to buy a small bottle of Birchwood Casey's "Super Blue", which is used on guns to turn the bare steel black. If that works, then you can polish the clubs using my polishing tutorials to get the underlying metal smooth, clean with alcohol, then re-"blue" them.
th-cam.com/video/PGpYh-_llzE/w-d-xo.html
@@BradMeehan cool. Thanks!!!
do you sell any sets of clubs youve restored?
I do - especially the putters. I generally list them in ebay. I've been doing single irons for the channel lately so not too many full sets. But i usually add a link in the description to the ebay page
Do you offer this as a service ?
No sir. Just screwing around in my basement. I'm here to show you all how to do it.
What type of media did you use in that spot blaster? I have one of harbor freights other spot blasters and it's garbage lol. I used their glass bead. The gun leaks out the tip more than it sprays 🤦
It's the aluminum oxide (60 grit) media. I also bought it at Harbor Freight. Mine leaks as well, but it does a pretty good job for what im doing. I'd love to get an actual blasting cabinet.
What is the clear liquid rust removal product you use?
Muriatic acid and water. You can buy it in the paint department or pool cleaning supplies.
@@BradMeehan thanks
Brad can you do a video showing us how to polish a black iron?
Is it a modern, black chrome like the Taylormade M2? Or a vintage iron?