Amazing to see how Janja is constantly improving, not only her climbing skills, but also her mental skills. The self control and patience she demonstrated here, is impressive, as her nature is to do things fast and wild.
She's much lighter and has more energy left at the top, that's her advantage. If the routes were extended by 10 or 20 more holds, Ai will almost always win. Ai fans are ok with this but not ok with Ai's shortness in boulders.
@@hairtoss7975 I feel like Ai in particular is super well conditioned in terms of stamina though. There are a lot of fairly small built climbers who don’t have that stamina. Laura Rogora is shorter and built smaller than Ai.
@@chuuu4610 Ai is naturally small, Laura is intentionally small with dubious health conditions, just take a look at her. They all have strong arms and grip but Ai has so much less weight to move around, thus having more stamina and energy, thus topping/winning comps. Ai fans enjoy the advantages her small stature gives her in lead but keeps on complaining that she's too small for boulder settings.
i think that since janja knew she HAD to top it, she took her time in order to not make any mistakes, she calculated exactly how much time she needed for everything
@@hairtoss7975 It is true that smaller does have advantages in terms of less weight. I suppose Laura might not have been the best example. Ai honestly isn’t the only small one, or even the smallest in the Japanese team. I think Natsuki Tanii is just as small if not smaller, and I’m not sure if she does try to compete in bouldering. She is also a lead specialist, but she doesn’t seem to have the same almost inhuman stamina Ai seems to have. I think the Japanese team, especially the athletes that prefer lead put a lot of effort into stamina conditioning. For instance, Taisei Homma is fairly tall and is also pretty strong in that department too. But honestly observing Ai as just a viewer, I think her greatest strength is her ability to problem solve- the way her mind works is super interesting. I think she’s fairly self aware of the lack of athleticism. Funnily enough I think Ai was a bit more built in 2019 and she still really couldn’t jump back then either 😅 She herself has said in interviews she grew up being quite bad at sports. Tho she says she does try to work on her weaknesses too. I think that if she wasn’t actively working on it she wouldn’t have expended so much energy trying the “height-y” problems she couldn’t manage the last few times she has come out. The problem that got the most criticism troubled Brooke too and she’s very good at powerful dynamic moves.
Amazing to see how Janja is constantly improving, not only her climbing skills, but also her mental skills. The self control and patience she demonstrated here, is impressive, as her nature is to do things fast and wild.
Her mental game is fascinating. It is one aspect of why she is such a great climber.
Matt: I'm so stressed
Me: *screaming at the screen while forgetting how to breathe*
It never gets boring watching her
Janja: climbing at her pace keeping time at mind
Everyone else: *stressing OMFG *freaking out *weird noises
The static reach and then finger match. Perfection.
Beast
it's amazing that Ai actually climbed faster than Janja on this route even losing half a minute at the dyno
She's much lighter and has more energy left at the top, that's her advantage. If the routes were extended by 10 or 20 more holds, Ai will almost always win. Ai fans are ok with this but not ok with Ai's shortness in boulders.
@@hairtoss7975 I feel like Ai in particular is super well conditioned in terms of stamina though. There are a lot of fairly small built climbers who don’t have that stamina. Laura Rogora is shorter and built smaller than Ai.
@@chuuu4610 Ai is naturally small, Laura is intentionally small with dubious health conditions, just take a look at her. They all have strong arms and grip but Ai has so much less weight to move around, thus having more stamina and energy, thus topping/winning comps. Ai fans enjoy the advantages her small stature gives her in lead but keeps on complaining that she's too small for boulder settings.
i think that since janja knew she HAD to top it, she took her time in order to not make any mistakes, she calculated exactly how much time she needed for everything
@@hairtoss7975 It is true that smaller does have advantages in terms of less weight. I suppose Laura might not have been the best example.
Ai honestly isn’t the only small one, or even the smallest in the Japanese team. I think Natsuki Tanii is just as small if not smaller, and I’m not sure if she does try to compete in bouldering. She is also a lead specialist, but she doesn’t seem to have the same almost inhuman stamina Ai seems to have.
I think the Japanese team, especially the athletes that prefer lead put a lot of effort into stamina conditioning. For instance, Taisei Homma is fairly tall and is also pretty strong in that department too.
But honestly observing Ai as just a viewer, I think her greatest strength is her ability to problem solve- the way her mind works is super interesting.
I think she’s fairly self aware of the lack of athleticism. Funnily enough I think Ai was a bit more built in 2019 and she still really couldn’t jump back then either 😅 She herself has said in interviews she grew up being quite bad at sports. Tho she says she does try to work on her weaknesses too. I think that if she wasn’t actively working on it she wouldn’t have expended so much energy trying the “height-y” problems she couldn’t manage the last few times she has come out. The problem that got the most criticism troubled Brooke too and she’s very good at powerful dynamic moves.
Would have been better, if we could see the clock too...
AI Mori was faster...why still Second Place?
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