You’re a mature young man and will learn very quickly. You’ll be teaching the pros before long. In the meantime, keep on teaching the rest of us. The world is a better place because of you!!
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
THIS IS AWESOME!!! So many people make ALL of these mistakes using crappy Internet plans. I really hope a lot of people find this video before starting their projects. This is an extremely good concise way to teach everyone the mistakes not to make Good video!
I've been a carpenter/house builder for the last 20 years and occasionally have dabbled in woodworking. I find it so much more difficult to build a beautiful table then a beautiful house. I found it is always in the details...no easy button when doing woodworking as you know. Woodworking has no limit on perfecting ones craft...there is always room to improve and learn. That's why I appreciate your videos and your humble honesty!!!
Good job young'en, what I really appreciate is your willing to admit your mistakes. Takes a real man to do so, not many out there to stand up and say I've tried this way and this is where I went wrong and how you fixed it. Once again good job.
Very cool video! I've been woodworking for just about 7-8 years now. When I see the first projects I did I see how wrong they are and how much I've improved.
I love this. I’m looking to make a farmhouse table myself, and there are lots of videos, but I wanted to know how some of these decisions work over time. Seeing the old vs New is really really helpful. Thanks Brandon!!!
First time I came across your videos, and I must say, you learn yourself very well my friend. My first build was a doll house bookshelf for a niece of mine. Everybody bragged about it and would tell me all positive feedback. Then the days passed and my mistakes and things overlooked became the only thing I saw. Time, patience, practice, and learning from each of my projects, eventually afforded me to do what I love doing for a living. I see much of that in you. Just keep in mind always, that mistakes and overlooked steps included, that first table will be the best project you have ever done. There will always be a glitch in the matrix in almost everything you build, but when you compare back to that table, you will see just how you became a Craftsman. Keep it up my friend, can't wait to see what you create as you grow in the trade. 👍
Breadboard style edge is probably a more accurate description. Its the old way to stabilize the warping of, you guessed it, a breadboard. Tip - when you peg the breadboard, elongate the peg holes in the main body of the table aside from the center peg. This allows the table top to expand and contract without splitting the boards or your glue joints.
I got my first table saw this Christmas an i'm planning on building some dining sets. I am a beginner and iv'e only made a few things, but one thing that someone told me who is a lot better than me at woodworking said when you varnish you should pour some in a separate container so all the small specks of dirt you pick up when you do varnish won"t get in your original can, giving it a smoother look next time.
for soft woods, consider a conditioner before you stain, it helps absorb stain evenly, im sure you know. Just my thoughts on this build. Looks great none the less. nice work. Edited: the uneven stain gives it a more rustic appearance. Maybe that's what you were thinking too. subbed.
Great video, I didn't see anyone mentioned the plane that you were using, Jack plane #4. You needed a longer leveling plane, like #6, #7 or #8, to level out the table then use a smoothing plane like the #4's or a sander. Also to get rid of the blade marks on the table as you plane as you sharpen the blade slightly round the edges of the blade, that way when you do use the plane you wont get the sharp edge lines in the wood. Over all great video, keep learning as I am as well.... Thought I would pass along what I have learned on planes and wood.......AND Still learning!!!!!
Excellent production value and good information people need to know before wasting time and materials on shoddy construction techniques. Plenty of comments on the fixed edge pins, but you mentioned flattening the top with a #4 plane. That’s a smoothing plane, which may flatten large variations over a short distance, but for true flattening, you’ll need, at the very least, a #6, but better, yet, use a #7 or #8 jointing plane. Great video. I’m interested to see what else you’ve posted.
Good work, finally someone who doesn't just pocket hole the thing together and call it perfect. As has been said, you might slot the breadboard dowel holes in the body of the table leaving normal holes in the breadboards so the table can expand and contract. You might also toss around the idea of doing through, wedged, mortise and tenon joints for the frame. Over time it may or may not add stability to your project over the long bots you used, but it looks much nicer and (to me at least) it's more satisfying knowing the frame and table top have no hardware in them (whatever that's worth). You also didn't say how you attached the top to the frame. To allow for the top expansion tabletop buttons are generally the best way to go about it if anyone in the comments was wondering. Great build though. Honestly head and shoulders above the vast majority of "farmhouse table builds" here on TH-cam.
Miles J.: I couldn’t agree more. LOTS of bad information, spreading like wildfire and people are selling this crap to uneducated consumers, who buying purely on price.
I like your honesty. You may not be the most skilled wood worker on TH-cam. But the fact you can look back at your projects and learn from them tells me your skill level will grow quickly. Absolution a thumbs up from me!!
Any cheap freshly dimensioned wood, it is also good to run a dove board along the edges. Easy to cut out with a router, then the dove board with table saw. pound it in and let the glue naturally make the fitting super tight. That will keep the board on the ends from moving.
It's progress. Respectable. Lots of others don't even care about improving. On version three, get away from the big box store and get some quality hardwoods.
You can take sawdust from sanding the table and mix with wood glue to fill the gaps. Allows you to keep deep milled look, while filling the gap so food won't fall through. Using the saw dust from your project ensures the color of the wood matches flawlessly
Nice video. I like the way you went over the mistakes you made. There is one more thing I am going to change when I build my farmhouse table. I wont use lag bolts or screws but plan to mortise and tenon the whole base together.
Thanks for this video. I don't do any woodworking, but I've been tempted to learn. I've seen tables like your first one with all the mistakes in it in stores, where they charge good money for the "distressed" look and on which all the plates would wobble :(
First time seeing any of your videos but this one caught my attention. This is an awesome idea for a video! Not wishing you any more mistakes (we all make them), but if they happen, make another video!! Most wood workers on TH-cam DO NOT show their mistakes which makes some people think that if they do make a mistake, they’re not good enough at what they do. This shows beginning wood workers that it is definitely ok and will happen. Good work sir. New subscriber.
Its a marking gauge. One of those tools I had no clue existed and then didn't know how I lived without it once I did: www.amazon.com/Taytools-MGB-Woodworking-Precision-Marking/dp/B017Z03G4Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540392670&sr=8-4&keywords=marking+gauge
Just a suggestion but when you are a attatching a bread board end if you elongate the screw holes (all except the middle one) the wood will be able to expand and contract without creating any cracks in the wood.
I will be making my first farmhouse table in the near future. I am very thankful for this video. New watcher and subscriber. Thank you for the humility and honesty!
If your lucky enough to have a thickness planer and jointer. Run the stock thru the planer first to establish parallel surfaces, then joint the edges. That way you’ll have better squareness and less chance of any gaps between the glued up table top boards. Just my opinion.
I know this is an older video, so you may not see my comment. This was very informative. I built a table several years ago and had some issues with it. I blamed it on the breadboard end and vowed to never try a breadboard end again. Seeing your video may have changed my mind. Very informative...can't wait to see what other videos you have on your channel. Also, you have a new subscriber.
For those wondering how to stop Big Box from cupping...flip your boards over to what is going to be the bottom. Make sure all your boards fit together tight..clamp them tight..like you are doing a glue up..take your router and cut a 1/2 wide groove from side to side..NOT the length..stop about half way through the last board...go buy some rebar and use epoxy ...drop the rebar in deep enough so it's just below the surface..mix and pour in your epoxy...let set up.and dry...BAM ... done. We did this to a table we made using pine from HD..It's been outside for over 3 years...NO MOVEMENT..NO CUPPING..NO SPLITTING...
Great video with excellent points. I’m building my benches first, using the same design as I want to use on the table, that way I learn from all my mistakes on the benches. I’ve seen about a dozen of these farmhouse table vids, and I’m doing the real breadboard ends and mortise & tenon leg supports. How’s the Arm-R-Seal holding up on your table top?
I made a number of mistakes on my first farmhouse table, too. I put ash edge bands on each side and bread boards on each end, but the bulk of the table top was red fir. Marrying hard woods and soft woods is not a great idea- the softwoods expand and contract volumetrically waaaaay more than the hardwoods, and suffice it to say that it causes problems. My next will be one or the other.
My first major woodworking project was building the exact same table you first built and they look identical and have the same EXACT problems, even down to the hand plane and the divets from it haha.
Bruce I like to see young folks learning from their mistakes,I think there are more things you need to adjust but you will find those things out in time. Thanks for helping folks out that are contamplating building their first table. www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos
Totally! Be sure and check out Andrew Cottrell's comment (the pinned one) I actually explained it wrong and he has some great tips and what you SHOULD do instead!
Like your style. Well done addressing your errors and thanks for sharing. What was the tune when you were explaining about using glue and dowels (at 2 minutes) please? Thanks. 😊
Right and another thing it looks like you used Fir so before applying stain, you should apply a sanding sealer. It’ll make the stain come in more evenly but yeah, great explanation. If you didn’t make mistakes then ur not a woodworker. Even the masters make occasional mistakes. It’s part of learning and to share those with others is a great idea, so thanks for that
Forstner bits would make the holes you put the screws in look nicer. I made similarly my own bed frames and buying a set of forstner bits was definetly worth it as leaves such a clean hole.
Very good. I am in the process of making a table top now, and I’m doing my first real breadboard. I offset the holes in the table tenon more than I should have (thought 1/32 wasn’t enough so I did maybe 1/16), and I had to pound, I mean pound the dowels through. Then the breadboard end shoulder pulled over the top of the table on one side. On the other it just cracked. Clamping disaster. So don’t offset the holes more than a tiny tiny bit
If you know how to operate a belt sander correctly, you can flatten a glued up table by sanding cross grain first with a course grit sanding belt until the table is flat. You can’t just sand in one unflattened spot at the time. You have to sand from end to end, sanding the flattened areas also. Come all the way over the table and then back across to the other side. Never let the sander stop and stay at a constant speed moving the sander. Once the table is flat, go with the grain taking out the cross grain sanding streaks. Change to a softer grit sanding belt each time you have gotten across the table until there is no cross grain sanding streaking with the grain. Then come back with a palm sander and sand with a different grit sanding pad each time until you have gotten to a 320 grit sanding pad and always sand with the grain with the palm sander. This is how I always do it and it has turned out perfectly flat with no sanding streaks.
When dimensioning your lumber, if you want true parallel edges and surfaces, joint only one edge, and only one surface. For surfacing on the jointer, do not use lumber that is wider than your jointer's blades. Do both of these steps before moving on to other steps. After jointing one edge and one surface, use your table saw to cut the other edge, being sure to put the jointed edge against the fence. Place the jointed surface down on the saws table top. Trim just enough of the wood to give a clean square edge that is perfectly parallel to the jointed edge. Next, put the piece of lumber through your planer, with the jointed surface down allowing the blades of the planer to cut the opposite surface. This will give you a piece of lumber that is referred to as S4S or perfectly square and parallel on all 4 surfaces. If you use only your jointer or only your planer, yes, the surfaces will be smooth, but they may not be parallel, and, if there is any twist or warp in the lumber when you started, it will still be there when you are finished.
Great video style, i am blown away by how much those small adjustments made your new table better. I was wondering whats the name of the paint you used becouse i simply love it. Keep up the good work.
I liked this video idea, I make a lot, I mean a lot of mistakes. I learn from books and online research, but the greater part of my learning has been from costly mistakes. It can feel daunting when you go online and it seems like everybody except you is an expert because nobody posts their mistakes.
Great video and tips. I don't why people use a bread board. IMO it does nothing for the look of the table and is a great deal of extra work. BTW: What type of timber did you use?
1st i am a beginner wood worker. I did the same thing on my 1st table. Went out and bought a planer and jointer. I still suck. Would you do a walk through on these items?
Maybe it's been answered... Breadboards obvious purpose is to help maintain the flatness of the top. The term comes from the style of the old bakery's cutting style boards that used similar construction. The long table top looks like a giant breadboard. 😃
Killed it! I've built farmhouse so this info really isnt new to me, but you covered pretty much everything in this. While Farmhouse may not be considered the finest of woodworking since it is done with cheaper wood, the techniques of fine woodworking have to be used. Nice job
I hope you made holes larger than your dowel on your breadboard, otherwise they will act just like screws and rip your table apart. Except for the dead center the dowel holes should be almost like small slots so the dowels can move around
A breadboard is so the table doesn’t cup. Dowels are a good idea but offer really no extra strength, just help with alignment of the top. Be careful when using dimensional lumber from the big box stores because it is typically still around 18% moisture which is too high for furniture making.
Dowling is a good method for joining boards together, however I prefer biscuit joints myself much easier. You also do not have to be as precise with the holes aligning properly.
Very well done video! I'm actually really happy with how you presented this build, really kept my attention. Also your video shot and animations were great. I'm about to google why its called a "bread board" lol. Thanks! and you got a new Sub!
Definitely need a bigger hand plane to actually flatten the surface, you can use that smaller one as a smoothing plane if you sharpen the blade correctly with rounded corners, but it would be pretty difficult to flatten such a big surface with such a small plane as the plane is small enough to follow the hills and valleys of the wood
Haha if I had the extra ones to donate I would, it’s expensive to buy new ones, so I just buy old ones as cheap as I can and restore them so far I only have a #6,5,4,3 and a low angle
Use a longer plane. A jointer plane #7 works well for flattening. This is advice is coming from someone who has no woodworking skills and only owns a $10 plane. jk. The issue with the small planes they follow the contour of the hills and valley. You did run the planks through the surface planer? So you could glue two at a time do a quick pass and then glue three sections together using clamping fails to hold the panel together?
I'm about to say something that will make the wood movement police go crazy. But whatever. Lol. My experience supports it. Wood movement... It's a "common tale" that as external humidity changes, so will your projects... Well... That's honestly not the case if you have your home well insulated and at a consistent humidity. Which most houses are. Most antique furniture doesn't break from wood movement when sitting in a house.... They break from wood movement when people put them in garages and barns where there is no climate control. Then the wood movement starts setting in and everything gets all crazy. And also .. wood movement can be overpowered and controlled. Just look at high quality sheets of veneer ply. If you are building something for an interior job, honestly it will likely shrink a little over the next 1-6 months when bringing it in from your shop (especially if your shop isn't well controlled with it's humidity and temperature .) I've sold very expensive veneered signs, laminated chess boards with highly figured cross grain, and even tables with cross grain on them. As long as you expect a little shrinkage and it's gonna be climate controlled.... You honestly don't need much for wood movement. You don't believe me? Go to the Las Vegas airport and go to the Jamba Juice inside the terminal. There is a hickory table there with no proper breadboards, held all together with glue and dominos. Breaks all the rules and it's perfectly flat and strong with perfect joints. Also, the Samurai Carpenter and many of my fellow pro woodworker friends agree with me. Yes wood moves. But not as much as people think on indoor furniture. And a little known fact about wood glue.... It's actually not a true solid once cured. It can allow for a surprising amount of wood movement and shifting and still keep it's bond. Honestly man you could have just glued and mortise and tenoned that baby on for the breadboard. The bigger issue isn't the breadboard... It's the fact that you are using construction lumber. The 2x6s are gonna get way more contraction than just going down to the hardwood store and buying poplar. And it actually will be surprisingly similar in cost. But the moisture in that framing lumber may be enough that it blows that a perpendicular wood joint out. But if you are using dry high quality woods... My statement stands.
I was in a hurry and didn't add dowels to the table slats. Not sure how to ensure I don't get warpage that will ruin the table and the effort i went thru to build it. I used a combination of wood screws and 2.5 finish nails with nail gun to join the wood. Can I add wood glue as a last step before staining and sealing?
slot the holes in the table on the breadboard end so they wont split over time, dont just pin them, breadboard = holes, table = slots (not huge mind you)
You're getting better but the flipping the grain to make it alternate has been disproven. And for the breadboard ends, you should glue and screw near one end, and use just a screw at the other end, putting the screw in a slot so the wood can move.
Sure i'm not the first to comment on this, but all of you outer tongue pin holes should be elongated along the width axis of the table, otherwise they will fight the expansion of the wood and you could end up with some weird movement. Also, offset the breadboard holes 1/16" out compared to the tongue holes so the pins actually draw the joint closed when they go in (called draw boring). Obviously this is more of a "tips" video than a full on how to, so you probably already knew/did these things. Just thought i'd share in case you didnt :)
You’re a mature young man and will learn very quickly. You’ll be teaching the pros before long. In the meantime, keep on teaching the rest of us. The world is a better place because of you!!
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
THIS IS AWESOME!!! So many people make ALL of these mistakes using crappy Internet plans. I really hope a lot of people find this video before starting their projects. This is an extremely good concise way to teach everyone the mistakes not to make
Good video!
Thanks for your post! I’m on my second table, trying to minimize mistakes..... still learning. Thanks for your help.
I've been a carpenter/house builder for the last 20 years and occasionally have dabbled in woodworking. I find it so much more difficult to build a beautiful table then a beautiful house. I found it is always in the details...no easy button when doing woodworking as you know. Woodworking has no limit on perfecting ones craft...there is always room to improve and learn.
That's why I appreciate your videos and your humble honesty!!!
Good job young'en, what I really appreciate is your willing to admit your mistakes. Takes a real man to do so, not many out there to stand up and say I've tried this way and this is where I went wrong and how you fixed it. Once again good job.
Very cool video! I've been woodworking for just about 7-8 years now. When I see the first projects I did I see how wrong they are and how much I've improved.
I enjoyed this as well, and your candor at explaining mistakes (and not getting defensive in notes below) is super refreshing. I signed up!
I love this. I’m looking to make a farmhouse table myself, and there are lots of videos, but I wanted to know how some of these decisions work over time. Seeing the old vs New is really really helpful. Thanks Brandon!!!
Marty Murphy you got it! I’d say this biggest thing is making sure you have strong joints and a flat top of the table!
First time I came across your videos, and I must say, you learn yourself very well my friend. My first build was a doll house bookshelf for a niece of mine. Everybody bragged about it and would tell me all positive feedback. Then the days passed and my mistakes and things overlooked became the only thing I saw. Time, patience, practice, and learning from each of my projects, eventually afforded me to do what I love doing for a living. I see much of that in you. Just keep in mind always, that mistakes and overlooked steps included, that first table will be the best project you have ever done. There will always be a glitch in the matrix in almost everything you build, but when you compare back to that table, you will see just how you became a Craftsman. Keep it up my friend, can't wait to see what you create as you grow in the trade. 👍
Breadboard style edge is probably a more accurate description. Its the old way to stabilize the warping of, you guessed it, a breadboard.
Tip - when you peg the breadboard, elongate the peg holes in the main body of the table aside from the center peg.
This allows the table top to expand and contract without splitting the boards or your glue joints.
I was thinking of posting "Mistakes were still made" but you did a better explanation.
I got my first table saw this Christmas an i'm planning on building some dining sets. I am a beginner and iv'e only made a few things, but one thing that someone told me who is a lot better than me at woodworking said when you varnish you should pour some in a separate container so all the small specks of dirt you pick up when you do varnish won"t get in your original can, giving it a smoother look next time.
for soft woods, consider a conditioner before you stain, it helps absorb stain evenly, im sure you know. Just my thoughts on this build. Looks great none the less. nice work. Edited: the uneven stain gives it a more rustic appearance. Maybe that's what you were thinking too. subbed.
Great video, I didn't see anyone mentioned the plane that you were using, Jack plane #4. You needed a longer leveling plane, like #6, #7 or #8, to level out the table then use a smoothing plane like the #4's or a sander. Also to get rid of the blade marks on the table as you plane as you sharpen the blade slightly round the edges of the blade, that way when you do use the plane you wont get the sharp edge lines in the wood.
Over all great video, keep learning as I am as well.... Thought I would pass along what I have learned on planes and wood.......AND Still learning!!!!!
Excellent production value and good information people need to know before wasting time and materials on shoddy construction techniques. Plenty of comments on the fixed edge pins, but you mentioned flattening the top with a #4 plane. That’s a smoothing plane, which may flatten large variations over a short distance, but for true flattening, you’ll need, at the very least, a #6, but better, yet, use a #7 or #8 jointing plane.
Great video. I’m interested to see what else you’ve posted.
Good work, finally someone who doesn't just pocket hole the thing together and call it perfect.
As has been said, you might slot the breadboard dowel holes in the body of the table leaving normal holes in the breadboards so the table can expand and contract. You might also toss around the idea of doing through, wedged, mortise and tenon joints for the frame. Over time it may or may not add stability to your project over the long bots you used, but it looks much nicer and (to me at least) it's more satisfying knowing the frame and table top have no hardware in them (whatever that's worth).
You also didn't say how you attached the top to the frame. To allow for the top expansion tabletop buttons are generally the best way to go about it if anyone in the comments was wondering.
Great build though. Honestly head and shoulders above the vast majority of "farmhouse table builds" here on TH-cam.
Miles J.: I couldn’t agree more. LOTS of bad information, spreading like wildfire and people are selling this crap to uneducated consumers, who buying purely on price.
I like your honesty. You may not be the most skilled wood worker on TH-cam. But the fact you can look back at your projects and learn from them tells me your skill level will grow quickly. Absolution a thumbs up from me!!
The bread board and dial rods are awesome thanks
Long plan to flatten the top, but I really love my belt sander and a long straight edge to mark H/L. On pine using 60 grit, it gets flat super fast.
Any cheap freshly dimensioned wood, it is also good to run a dove board along the edges. Easy to cut out with a router, then the dove board with table saw. pound it in and let the glue naturally make the fitting super tight. That will keep the board on the ends from moving.
It's progress. Respectable. Lots of others don't even care about improving. On version three, get away from the big box store and get some quality hardwoods.
Great video! Thank you for sharing! It's good to see people learn as they progress and rare they are willing to show off their mistakes!
You can take sawdust from sanding the table and mix with wood glue to fill the gaps. Allows you to keep deep milled look, while filling the gap so food won't fall through. Using the saw dust from your project ensures the color of the wood matches flawlessly
Nice video. I like the way you went over the mistakes you made. There is one more thing I am going to change when I build my farmhouse table. I wont use lag bolts or screws but plan to mortise and tenon the whole base together.
Thanks for that! gave me several things to remember NOT to do! LOL! Much rather learn from someone else's mistakes!! Nice video ! Very Helpful!
Thanks for this video. I don't do any woodworking, but I've been tempted to learn. I've seen tables like your first one with all the mistakes in it in stores, where they charge good money for the "distressed" look and on which all the plates would wobble :(
Great tips! I’m about to start my first farmhouse table, and came across this video. I’ll definitely apply this. Thanks for all the advice.
awesome glad it helped!
First time seeing any of your videos but this one caught my attention. This is an awesome idea for a video! Not wishing you any more mistakes (we all make them), but if they happen, make another video!! Most wood workers on TH-cam DO NOT show their mistakes which makes some people think that if they do make a mistake, they’re not good enough at what they do. This shows beginning wood workers that it is definitely ok and will happen. Good work sir. New subscriber.
Thanks! I definitely want to show the mistakes because I'm by no means an expert!
Make or Break Shop at 2:44 what type of tool is that
Its a marking gauge. One of those tools I had no clue existed and then didn't know how I lived without it once I did: www.amazon.com/Taytools-MGB-Woodworking-Precision-Marking/dp/B017Z03G4Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540392670&sr=8-4&keywords=marking+gauge
Make or Break Shop thanks
I wanted to say the same, but you said it perfectly. Thank you both!!!
Good video, the best way to learn, trial and error. Can’t beat hands on experience, keep up the good work.
I think it’s great you share your expertise and experience.thankyou you very much.lovely work.tim in uk
Thanks!
Just a suggestion but when you are a attatching a bread board end if you elongate the screw holes (all except the middle one) the wood will be able to expand and contract without creating any cracks in the wood.
I will be making my first farmhouse table in the near future. I am very thankful for this video. New watcher and subscriber. Thank you for the humility and honesty!
Try some pre-stain wood conditioner when staining pine. You'll get a more consistent finish.
Also a router sled is a really good way to flatten a table top, you can make one fairly cheap.
Live and learn..your future projects will be even AWESOMER!
If your lucky enough to have a thickness planer and jointer. Run the stock thru the planer first to establish parallel surfaces, then joint the edges. That way you’ll have better squareness and less chance of any gaps between the glued up table top boards. Just my opinion.
I know this is an older video, so you may not see my comment. This was very informative. I built a table several years ago and had some issues with it. I blamed it on the breadboard end and vowed to never try a breadboard end again. Seeing your video may have changed my mind. Very informative...can't wait to see what other videos you have on your channel.
Also, you have a new subscriber.
Good to know! Also be sure and check the pinned comment, I described the reasoning behind the breadboard wrong and they had a great correction.
@@makeorbreakshop Awesome. I saw it. I read the article too.
Thanks for commenting back.
Very, very useful!! Thank you!
For those wondering how to stop Big Box from cupping...flip your boards over to what is going to be the bottom. Make sure all your boards fit together tight..clamp them tight..like you are doing a glue up..take your router and cut a 1/2 wide groove from side to side..NOT the length..stop about half way through the last board...go buy some rebar and use epoxy ...drop the rebar in deep enough so it's just below the surface..mix and pour in your epoxy...let set up.and dry...BAM ... done. We did this to a table we made using pine from HD..It's been outside for over 3 years...NO MOVEMENT..NO CUPPING..NO SPLITTING...
Great video with excellent points. I’m building my benches first, using the same design as I want to use on the table, that way I learn from all my mistakes on the benches. I’ve seen about a dozen of these farmhouse table vids, and I’m doing the real breadboard ends and mortise & tenon leg supports.
How’s the Arm-R-Seal holding up on your table top?
I made a number of mistakes on my first farmhouse table, too. I put ash edge bands on each side and bread boards on each end, but the bulk of the table top was red fir. Marrying hard woods and soft woods is not a great idea- the softwoods expand and contract volumetrically waaaaay more than the hardwoods, and suffice it to say that it causes problems. My next will be one or the other.
My first major woodworking project was building the exact same table you first built and they look identical and have the same EXACT problems, even down to the hand plane and the divets from it haha.
Looks like you've learned a good bit from that first table build and huge props for having another go at it so quickly after.
Bruce A. Ulrich thanks man!
Bruce I like to see young folks learning from their mistakes,I think there are more things you need to adjust but you will find those things out in time. Thanks for helping folks out that are contamplating building their first table. www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos
Thanks for the breadboard tip! I didn't know it served a purpose other than for aesthetics.
Totally! Be sure and check out Andrew Cottrell's comment (the pinned one) I actually explained it wrong and he has some great tips and what you SHOULD do instead!
You're right this was very informative, thank you for the different perspective.
Like your style. Well done addressing your errors and thanks for sharing. What was the tune when you were explaining about using glue and dowels (at 2 minutes) please? Thanks. 😊
Right and another thing it looks like you used Fir so before applying stain, you should apply a sanding sealer. It’ll make the stain come in more evenly but yeah, great explanation. If you didn’t make mistakes then ur not a woodworker. Even the masters make occasional mistakes. It’s part of learning and to share those with others is a great idea, so thanks for that
Forstner bits would make the holes you put the screws in look nicer. I made similarly my own bed frames and buying a set of forstner bits was definetly worth it as leaves such a clean hole.
Thank you for all the great info. 👍👍
You are learning fast . great video too .
Thanks for sharing. Good luck in the future. You only learn by mistakes, your or others
Very good. I am in the process of making a table top now, and I’m doing my first real breadboard. I offset the holes in the table tenon more than I should have (thought 1/32 wasn’t enough so I did maybe 1/16), and I had to pound, I mean pound the dowels through. Then the breadboard end shoulder pulled over the top of the table on one side. On the other it just cracked. Clamping disaster. So don’t offset the holes more than a tiny tiny bit
OMG! This is such a helpful video before I build my first table! Thank you! : )
If you know how to operate a belt sander correctly, you can flatten a glued up table by sanding cross grain first with a course grit sanding belt until the table is flat. You can’t just sand in one unflattened spot at the time. You have to sand from end to end, sanding the flattened areas also. Come all the way over the table and then back across to the other side. Never let the sander stop and stay at a constant speed moving the sander. Once the table is flat, go with the grain taking out the cross grain sanding streaks. Change to a softer grit sanding belt each time you have gotten across the table until there is no cross grain sanding streaking with the grain. Then come back with a palm sander and sand with a different grit sanding pad each time until you have gotten to a 320 grit sanding pad and always sand with the grain with the palm sander. This is how I always do it and it has turned out perfectly flat with no sanding streaks.
When dimensioning your lumber, if you want true parallel edges and surfaces, joint only one edge, and only one surface. For surfacing on the jointer, do not use lumber that is wider than your jointer's blades. Do both of these steps before moving on to other steps. After jointing one edge and one surface, use your table saw to cut the other edge, being sure to put the jointed edge against the fence. Place the jointed surface down on the saws table top. Trim just enough of the wood to give a clean square edge that is perfectly parallel to the jointed edge. Next, put the piece of lumber through your planer, with the jointed surface down allowing the blades of the planer to cut the opposite surface. This will give you a piece of lumber that is referred to as S4S or perfectly square and parallel on all 4 surfaces. If you use only your jointer or only your planer, yes, the surfaces will be smooth, but they may not be parallel, and, if there is any twist or warp in the lumber when you started, it will still be there when you are finished.
Great video, it's amazing how a few extra steps can totally improve the outcome of a project!
Thanks! Yeh especially wood glue....ha!
Make or Break Shop Here's where I would insert some sort of Chris Salomone joke about a bit of wood glue going a long way. Haha!
"No pressure"
I like the gaps it gives it more character
Keep at it, you'll get better every time.
Yep!
Great info thanx! What tools, saws & equipment do you use & recommend?
I made a lot of the same mistakes when I built this table. I’m going to be rebuilding it using these techniques and fortunately a bench top planer
good luck!
Great video style, i am blown away by how much those small adjustments made your new table better. I was wondering whats the name of the paint you used becouse i simply love it. Keep up the good work.
Also to help eliminate cupping is use quarter sawn wood.
Great video! Thanks for the tips and help!
Yep I made the exact same mistakes with my first table.
I liked this video idea, I make a lot, I mean a lot of mistakes. I learn from books and online research, but the greater part of my learning has been from costly mistakes. It can feel daunting when you go online and it seems like everybody except you is an expert because nobody posts their mistakes.
Great video and tips. I don't why people use a bread board. IMO it does nothing for the look of the table and is a great deal of extra work. BTW: What type of timber did you use?
1st i am a beginner wood worker. I did the same thing on my 1st table. Went out and bought a planer and jointer. I still suck. Would you do a walk through on these items?
Thanks for the tips!
Maybe it's been answered... Breadboards obvious purpose is to help maintain the flatness of the top. The term comes from the style of the old bakery's cutting style boards that used similar construction. The long table top looks like a giant breadboard.
😃
Thanks!
Killed it! I've built farmhouse so this info really isnt new to me, but you covered pretty much everything in this. While Farmhouse may not be considered the finest of woodworking since it is done with cheaper wood, the techniques of fine woodworking have to be used. Nice job
Totally! It's was a great launching off point to go deeper down the fine woodworking rabit hole!
I hope you made holes larger than your dowel on your breadboard, otherwise they will act just like screws and rip your table apart. Except for the dead center the dowel holes should be almost like small slots so the dowels can move around
A breadboard is so the table doesn’t cup. Dowels are a good idea but offer really no extra strength, just help with alignment of the top. Be careful when using dimensional lumber from the big box stores because it is typically still around 18% moisture which is too high for furniture making.
Dowling is a good method for joining boards together, however I prefer biscuit joints myself much easier. You also do not have to be as precise with the holes aligning properly.
Lots of great information.
When is the video coming out about the mistakes you made the second time
Very well done video! I'm actually really happy with how you presented this build, really kept my attention. Also your video shot and animations were great. I'm about to google why its called a "bread board" lol. Thanks! and you got a new Sub!
Great tips. I made some of those mistakes on my first as well :)
Definitely need a bigger hand plane to actually flatten the surface, you can use that smaller one as a smoothing plane if you sharpen the blade correctly with rounded corners, but it would be pretty difficult to flatten such a big surface with such a small plane as the plane is small enough to follow the hills and valleys of the wood
I’m open to any hand plane donations to help with the flattening process ;)
Haha if I had the extra ones to donate I would, it’s expensive to buy new ones, so I just buy old ones as cheap as I can and restore them so far I only have a #6,5,4,3 and a low angle
Use a longer plane. A jointer plane #7 works well for flattening. This is advice is coming from someone who has no woodworking skills and only owns a $10 plane. jk. The issue with the small planes they follow the contour of the hills and valley. You did run the planks through the surface planer? So you could glue two at a time do a quick pass and then glue three sections together using clamping fails to hold the panel together?
I learn what not to do on every project. Thx for this video. (BTW, I am 80)
Great tips for building a great table 👍
Pocket hole screws work very well also.
How did the jointer do with those long boards?
I'm about to say something that will make the wood movement police go crazy. But whatever. Lol. My experience supports it.
Wood movement... It's a "common tale" that as external humidity changes, so will your projects... Well... That's honestly not the case if you have your home well insulated and at a consistent humidity. Which most houses are. Most antique furniture doesn't break from wood movement when sitting in a house.... They break from wood movement when people put them in garages and barns where there is no climate control. Then the wood movement starts setting in and everything gets all crazy. And also .. wood movement can be overpowered and controlled. Just look at high quality sheets of veneer ply.
If you are building something for an interior job, honestly it will likely shrink a little over the next 1-6 months when bringing it in from your shop (especially if your shop isn't well controlled with it's humidity and temperature .)
I've sold very expensive veneered signs, laminated chess boards with highly figured cross grain, and even tables with cross grain on them. As long as you expect a little shrinkage and it's gonna be climate controlled.... You honestly don't need much for wood movement.
You don't believe me? Go to the Las Vegas airport and go to the Jamba Juice inside the terminal. There is a hickory table there with no proper breadboards, held all together with glue and dominos. Breaks all the rules and it's perfectly flat and strong with perfect joints.
Also, the Samurai Carpenter and many of my fellow pro woodworker friends agree with me. Yes wood moves. But not as much as people think on indoor furniture. And a little known fact about wood glue.... It's actually not a true solid once cured. It can allow for a surprising amount of wood movement and shifting and still keep it's bond. Honestly man you could have just glued and mortise and tenoned that baby on for the breadboard. The bigger issue isn't the breadboard... It's the fact that you are using construction lumber. The 2x6s are gonna get way more contraction than just going down to the hardwood store and buying poplar. And it actually will be surprisingly similar in cost. But the moisture in that framing lumber may be enough that it blows that a perpendicular wood joint out. But if you are using dry high quality woods... My statement stands.
Awesome vid thankyou for sharing
Awesome job explaining Brandon!! Thanks for sharing!!😊
Thanks Jedidiah! It was a fun one for sure!
That’s great! Your production is phenomenal brother!👍👏🏻
I was in a hurry and didn't add dowels to the table slats. Not sure how to ensure I don't get warpage that will ruin the table and the effort i went thru to build it. I used a combination of wood screws and 2.5 finish nails with nail gun to join the wood. Can I add wood glue as a last step before staining and sealing?
slot the holes in the table on the breadboard end so they wont split over time, dont just pin them, breadboard = holes, table = slots (not huge mind you)
Great tips and great job editing.
I appreciate it!
Cupping.....good information.
Appreciate the information, always good to learn from your past mistakes moving forward.
Can you tell is the depth of the router bit and end of breadboard to attach this? Thank you
You're getting better but the flipping the grain to make it alternate has been disproven. And for the breadboard ends, you should glue and screw near one end, and use just a screw at the other end, putting the screw in a slot so the wood can move.
New yankee workshop skills here! ;) Deathstar channel! Yeaaassss!!
Honest and great content. Good video mate all the way from Australia 👍
Such helpful tips. Thank you
Sure i'm not the first to comment on this, but all of you outer tongue pin holes should be elongated along the width axis of the table, otherwise they will fight the expansion of the wood and you could end up with some weird movement.
Also, offset the breadboard holes 1/16" out compared to the tongue holes so the pins actually draw the joint closed when they go in (called draw boring).
Obviously this is more of a "tips" video than a full on how to, so you probably already knew/did these things. Just thought i'd share in case you didnt :)
Great video! What kind of router bit did you use for the breadboard ends?
I think the table top imperfections added to the farm house table design of the first one. the new way you do it seems a bit too perfect.