You're welcome! I'm currently changing the cam for the 2nd time.... The replacement cam lasted about 3 years before the relief mechanism failed again... If electric models weren't so expensive, I'd seriously look at replacing the entire machine. I appreciate the comment and I'm glad the video helped.
I am having the same issue and having to replace the camshaft. Your video is extremely helpful. And special thanks for providing the torque specs. The only thing I would recommend to everyone out there (like myself) that is gun shy to turning a wrench, be careful when removing the original camshaft. The taps and possibly the push rods can come loose. Make certain the push rods are seated against the rocker arms correctly when you reinstall the new camshaft. I found this out the hard way unfortunately. But once I got the new camshaft in place, it held the taps/push rods in place (seating correctly against the rocker arms). I pray that the new camshaft will last me another 3-4 yrs. The compression release section looks to be cheaply engineered. Shame on you Briggs and Stratton !
mffisher123456 thanks for the comment! I’m glad this video was of help. I sped through the cam installation a little too much, so I appreciate your advice. Definitely helps the viewers out there trying this on their own. My repair has lasted two summers so far...hoping for a lot more. Cheers!
I'm glad to hear the news about the repair lasting you two summers. Gives me a little confidence. I researched a little further on the internet and found that the Kawasaki engines are durable. So if need be, this may be an alternative solution. Thanks again for taking the time of video taping this task/solution.
Great video, I’m waiting on the parts to do this exact job. 7:58 you didn’t do anything wrong it worked out great for you, great job. Many times it’s not that easy and turning the crank a bit, will help the gears and governer seat with out too much force.
For future reference, it REALLY helps to pull the rocker cover and remove the push rods. The old cam comes out easier, and the new one goes in without having to fight the push rods and lifters. Also, it's probably a good idea to readjust the valve clearances anyway with the new lifters in. Thanks for the great video!
You prolly dont care at all but does anyone know a way to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly lost my login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Devon Abraham thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I am not a mechanic at all. But this video has me seriously contemplating attempting this repair myself. I would love to see a video of the compression valve releasing a little bit of the exhaust when turned by hand.
Travis Walker if you’ve got the tools, I’d say go for it. At worst, you’d have to cart up the motor and bring it to a small engine mechanic. Either way, if you’ve removed the motor you’ve got half the work done. Best of luck whatever you do!
Yikes, that’s a bit scary. You don’t want to break the head of the screw, so be careful. I would apply a moderate amount of torque at a set rate of time. Try holding tension for 10-20 second intervals doing that a few times. Best of luck!
Heat. Give the bolt several minutes from a heat gun. You don’t want it red hot. Just hot to the touch. Give it a good PB blaster a night or two before to soak in. Then heat and consistent slow pressure with socket. Repeat heat and pressure. Resist the temptation to heave into it. Heat will let it loose with patience.
I have a quick question, while doing this repair, I also changed the oil seal in the sump cover and noticed there was a sort of O-ring in there also, it seems to be a sort of a "spring" like ring, not made of rubber. one was not included with the new seal P/N 690589 (#943 on the parts drawings on line) is this thing part of the original seal that came off or is it not needed? i dint see it anywhere listed on any of the drawings.
I know what you're talking about. it's called a Garter Spring. The Garter Spring should be inside of a rubber seal in order to put outward or inward pressure on the rubber component to aid in sealing. So to answer your question (to the best of my knowledge) yes, you need to re-install it.
Does anyone know the average cost to have this completed by a small engine shop? I've done enough troubleshooting to determine this is the problem with my tractor, but this is getting beyond what I have time to complete. I'm trying to gauge if it's worth my money to get it repaired or buy a new mower.
Hello. I’m unsure of what the cost would be. I’d call a local shop and inquire. I’m guessing a few hundred bucks. I’ve done it twice now and the second time went much quicker. I’d imagine a shop could bang it out pretty quick. However, I’d get a new mower. The mechanism will fail again. I’ve gone through two now and I’m not replacing it a third time. My opinion. Best of luck.
I don't see an oil pump shaft. I didn't notice anything fall out and I didn't take one out and you didn't mention or show one in the video. How is the camshaft turning the oilpump? I have a new oil pump with all the parts on order.
Look at 9:43. I install the oil pump shaft at that time. I assume your engine is also a 330000 series like mine, but if it isn’t, it may have a different oiling system that I’m not aware of. But if there’s a provision in the motor for a oil pump shaft, it’s got to be somewhere. Make sure it’s not hiding in the case!
4 yrs later and I'm back again with the same issue. Ugh! Mower does not want to turn over and afraid its most likely the same problem. So, now deciding to whether spend $150 and replace this camshaft once again, or - throw the towel in, get a different mower (And not a Briggs Motor). At least I can say I squeezed out 9.5 yrs of mower life with one camshaft replacement. LOL
Been there my friend! I’ve had mine apart 3 times since owning it. Before you tear into the motor again, adjust valve lash according to factory specs. Might get lucky trying that. If electric mowers weren’t $7,000 I’d have got that route a couple years ago. Best of luck, but those engines are cursed.
@@FastFixTH-cam Yep, I'm going to check the valve lash first, and also rotate the shaft to see if I can feel/view a bump in the valve to indicate whether the compression spring is still working or most likely shattered again into pieces. Fun times. Thanks again for your video as it will help me through this process.
@@FastFixTH-cam Looks like I may have other issues. Valve lash was good. Removed engine from mower, and took apart the sump cover and discovered two small pieces laying there. But, not certain if these pieces were left over from my first replacement of the camshaft and I just didnt see them, or... something else is going on. Camshaft looks intact. Only noticed that sometimes the spring loaded compression release part does not seem to have the same amount of tension all the time. I guess I'll be placing the new camshaft in, then hoping all works ok.
This video helped me replace the original camshaft when the compression release on my lawn tractor failed about 2 years ago. It has since failed again, with probably no more than 60 hours on the replacement cam. Unacceptable imo. Such a bad design. I'm going to repair it and sell the tractor and probably get an electric one.
Just got done replacing the cam.Used the marks we talked about and she fired right up!Thank you.Now the problem I have is it was spitting oil out of the muffler.Could it be because I drained all the oil and refilled it and it pushed it into the head when pressure was built at first?Any thoughts?Thanks for the help.Its awesome to have people like you.Keep up the good work.
Bill s glad it fired up for you! Yep, the whole point of my video was to expose B&S for a bad design and more importantly, help people save $$$ by fixing the problem themselves. Oil out the muffler is odd...theoretically, any oil blowing out the exhaust valve would be burned by the motor and you'd see blue smoke, not oil. I'd let the motor run for a while and see what happens. If oil continues to leak out the muffler, id look at new piston rings or valve steam seals.
If you turned the engine upside down as in this video it is not unusual to have a bit of oil or blue smoke come out of the exhaust for a short time when you first crank it back up.
Great vid.Was wondering if you could answer a question?Had a friend helping me because the same thing happened to my engine.Anyway,he removed the camshaft before I had the timing marks lined up! Will this be an issue if I spin the crank to allow for the cam to line up?Also my crank gear has a divot mark and what appears to be a small cutout about 180 out.Do I use the divot mark to time?Thanks.
Bill s Bill s hello. No, it shouldn't be an issue. Spinning the crank independent of the cam won't have any adverse effects. Go ahead and spin the crank to set the timing mark in the proper location. There should only be one divot mark to set timing on the crank. If there's another mark, I'd do some research and try to figure out what it is. Otherwise, line up the two similar divot marks and you'll be good. Thanks for watching.
Blueoyster5.Thank you so much for the help.I did look at the gear on the crank and the other mark I said about appears to look like a key&keyway.Is that possible?
Bill s I'm somewhat puzzled what kind of mark (other than a divot for timing) would be on the crankshaft drive gear. The camshaft gear has other marks on it one of which looks like a key way, but other than that I'm a little puzzled. I'd go with using the divots for timing then spin the motor by hand and make sure everything is operating correctly. Obviously, interference is bad! Haha, best of luck.
Hello. The timing marks are found on the face of both gear sets. it will look like an arrow or triangle. Just make sure they're pointing at each other and you're good.
I tried adjusting valves on a briggs 331877 2371 G1 and it still wouldn't crank. How can you tell for sure that the compression release is broken before tear down?
19ztu47 sounds like you’re having the same issue as me, but to be certain: -remove the spark plug -spin the motor by hand until you reach the compression stroke then continue to turn the engine until a little past TDC on the compression stroke -Install the spark plug and try to start it. -if the motor turns and fires, you bet it’s the compression relief mechanism -if the motor spins, but doesn’t start and becomes locked, it’s the compression mechanism. -so either way, the compression relief mechanism is probably your problem. Best of luck!
19ztu47 wow... I’m still amazed this happens. Give B&S a call and complain. They need to know. They blew me off when I did, but maybe things have changed. Good luck.
Okay, here are the part numbers. From the site jackssmallengines.com. Keep in mind, these parts are for this specific engine. If your engine is not included in this series, they may not fit. - engine: 331977-0004-G1-121025Z -camshaft: 84005207 -crankcase gasket: 697110
How old was the motor when this happened? We just bought a poulan pro with a Briggs and Stratton intek 19 hp. Should I be concerned about this happening anytime soon?
I'm not sure, but I assume some engines are different...like the two cylinder models. But I could be wrong. They might all have the compression relief feature. You'd have to check your engine model with B&S and find out.
Hmm, you’re getting interference from somewhere. Definitely don’t force rotation. Pull the cover off the case and make sure nothing is interfering internally. If you get interference free internal rotation, you’ve got something coming into contact on the cover. Check the dots on your crank gear to cam gear. Make sure those are lining up. Maybe check the inside of the cover and look for scoring marks from metal to metal contact... also check the seating of the parts you installed. Make sure everything is pressed together correctly. Hope this helps!
@Blueoyster5 ,I am currently working on my undergraduate final project. I would like to know if it is possible to get the design information of the camshaft gear in the video above and how ( in respect the addendum ,dedendum, PCD etc.). my research suggest a material that may likely fit in as a possible replacement for the nylon 66 made gear . I anticipate your reply soonest.
Hello. That sort of design information was not included in the manual of the camshaft, but I’ve included a link to the camshaft and it’s manufacturer. I’m sure they will provide you that information if their legal department allows it. Best of luck on your project. shop.briggsandstratton.com/products/briggs-and-stratton-793880-camshaft
Anthony juhasz whatever you feel comfortable with. I just replace the head gasket and 21 horse with an impact 130 foot pound and I didn't buy a new head gasket i use gasket maker soldering wire and an exhaust gasket from a 2000 Ford Expedition runs fine.
paul metcalf that is indeed a problem. Make sure the cam is fully seated, i.e: pushed back into the case as far as it can go. Try and maneuver around the rod cap if possible when seating the cam. If you can't, I'd say you probably have the wrong camshaft. Obviously, they should not interfere. Best of luck!
I let it run for a little and no more oil spitting out.And I didn't use a casket on the cover,just permatex.However I did see where oil was coming out.i also called b&s and they recommended that instead of a gasket. Because of the model date.I Also told them their products are shit!Do you think it would hurt to put a gasket on?Thanks again for all of your help.May God bless you sir.
Bill s Funny B&S recommended you to not use a gasket. I tried using a gasket compound, but it always leaked. I ended up using a valve cover gasket and it's leak free now. If you did a cam swap you can certainly install a valve cover gasket with no problem. Glad you told them what's what! Haha, take care.
To prevent this in the future... NEVER run your Engine full RPM. I always run mine at 3rd and that is it. Surprisingly, all my stuff left over from my Gram-pa still working. Some are actually from the 70's!
To quote the entire population, “they don’t make em like they used to.” I don’t think there’s any evidence to suggest that max RPM is responsible for the failure of this part. Rather, I believe it’s poor functional design has fundamental problems in the longevity of its operation. Thanks for the comment!
I have one of these engines. Had to replace the cam at less than 100 hours. Just turned over 400 hours and the compression release is broken, again. This engine is *never* run at full throttle, 3/4 throttle at most. And the oil & filter are changed every 25 hours. Castrol 30w & BS filter.
It says right in the manual to always run the engine at full throttle. Of course I'm sure you're one of those people that think the company is just telling you that so that the engine wears out sooner.
Dude..showing HOW to rake out and replace the cam is what people want to see,you buzzed right through that. And..you do NOT use grease on the cam,it will clog your oil pump,regular mower oil will do the job,and NO ,you DO worry about a little gasket sealer inside,it also will clog you oil pump. But hey,other than that,good video...lol
Really? This video is good enough for folks who want direction on the cam replacement. I showed most of the process and included torque values. What else is there? Assembly lube won’t clog the oil pump. It looks like you missed several things from this video and in your comment, but other than that, good comment…lol
Awesome vid! I had the same starting Cam lifter mech failure and your vid walked me thru the entire repair process! Thank you!!!
You're welcome! I'm currently changing the cam for the 2nd time.... The replacement cam lasted about 3 years before the relief mechanism failed again... If electric models weren't so expensive, I'd seriously look at replacing the entire machine. I appreciate the comment and I'm glad the video helped.
Thank you so much for this video and putting the torque for the sump 220# in the description, 90# on the oil pump cover for easy reference
You bet! 👍
I am having the same issue and having to replace the camshaft. Your video is extremely helpful. And special thanks for providing the torque specs. The only thing I would recommend to everyone out there (like myself) that is gun shy to turning a wrench, be careful when removing the original camshaft. The taps and possibly the push rods can come loose. Make certain the push rods are seated against the rocker arms correctly when you reinstall the new camshaft. I found this out the hard way unfortunately. But once I got the new camshaft in place, it held the taps/push rods in place (seating correctly against the rocker arms). I pray that the new camshaft will last me another 3-4 yrs. The compression release section looks to be cheaply engineered. Shame on you Briggs and Stratton !
mffisher123456 thanks for the comment! I’m glad this video was of help. I sped through the cam installation a little too much, so I appreciate your advice. Definitely helps the viewers out there trying this on their own. My repair has lasted two summers so far...hoping for a lot more. Cheers!
I'm glad to hear the news about the repair lasting you two summers. Gives me a little confidence. I researched a little further on the internet and found that the Kawasaki engines are durable. So if need be, this may be an alternative solution. Thanks again for taking the time of video taping this task/solution.
remove the rocker arm and pushrods to make inserting camshaft a doddle. Then reset tappets (you should anyway)
Did mine today. Thanks for the vid. Helped a lot.
RCFiddyOne you bet! Glad it worked for you.
I had to do this repair just now and your video helped. Thanks.
Chuck Bisordi glad to hear the video helped you. Thanks for the thanks!
Great video, I’m waiting on the parts to do this exact job.
7:58 you didn’t do anything wrong it worked out great for you, great job. Many times it’s not that easy and turning the crank a bit, will help the gears and governer seat with out too much force.
Jacob Beaton thank you! Best of luck on your repair!
For future reference, it REALLY helps to pull the rocker cover and remove the push rods. The old cam comes out easier, and the new one goes in without having to fight the push rods and lifters. Also, it's probably a good idea to readjust the valve clearances anyway with the new lifters in. Thanks for the great video!
Good tip! It was a bit of a task to get the new cam installed while keeping everything else lined up and in order. Thanks for the comment!
Great video and thanks for sharing. I replaced my crankshaft and adjusted my valves using your videos.
That’s great! I appreciate your comment!
You prolly dont care at all but does anyone know a way to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly lost my login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Jayceon Julien instablaster :)
@Devon Abraham thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Devon Abraham It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
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I am not a mechanic at all. But this video has me seriously contemplating attempting this repair myself.
I would love to see a video of the compression valve releasing a little bit of the exhaust when turned by hand.
Travis Walker if you’ve got the tools, I’d say go for it. At worst, you’d have to cart up the motor and bring it to a small engine mechanic. Either way, if you’ve removed the motor you’ve got half the work done. Best of luck whatever you do!
Great job thanks for posting this. I agree with the quality control issue and great engineering.
You’re welcome!
Hello, Great video as I will be doing this very thing as soon as the parts arrive. Can you tell me what the torque is for the sump bolts please?
Hello. I thought I put those values in the description. If they’re not there, please let me know 👍
@@FastFixTH-cam you did, and I found it. Great job as this fixed my mower. Extremely easy to do from engine removal to final install.
That has to be the cleanest engine that's ever came off a mower, what do you do steam it after every use?
Hahaha, no it’s just used for a medium/large lawn. I spray it down after every season, but that’s it. It’s only ran once per week for about an hour.
What date did you upload the Briggs camshaft repair engine startup?
I don’t recall. Maybe a year to two years ago…
Damn, one of the oil pump cover screw doesn’t come off. Looks like it’s seized. I tried with WD40 with no luck. Any suggestion? Cheers
Yikes, that’s a bit scary. You don’t want to break the head of the screw, so be careful. I would apply a moderate amount of torque at a set rate of time. Try holding tension for 10-20 second intervals doing that a few times. Best of luck!
Heat. Give the bolt several minutes from a heat gun. You don’t want it red hot. Just hot to the touch.
Give it a good PB blaster a night or two before to soak in. Then heat and consistent slow pressure with socket. Repeat heat and pressure.
Resist the temptation to heave into it. Heat will let it loose with patience.
Bought a rider with same engine blown rod. Great video got mine all apart waiting for parts. What is torque spec for cover.
Sounds like a project! 220 inch pounds for the sump cover.
Thank you for the video
You bet!
It would be wise to change the crank seal since the sump is removed. Cheap insurance against a leak since it's all apart.
Agreed! Good tip 👍
I have a quick question, while doing this repair, I also changed the oil seal
in the sump cover and noticed there was a sort of
O-ring in there also, it seems to be a sort of a "spring" like ring, not
made of rubber. one was not included with the new seal P/N 690589 (#943
on the parts drawings on line) is this thing part of the original seal
that came off or is it not needed? i dint see it anywhere listed on any
of the drawings.
I know what you're talking about. it's called a Garter Spring. The Garter Spring should be inside of a rubber seal in order to put outward or inward pressure on the rubber component to aid in sealing. So to answer your question (to the best of my knowledge) yes, you need to re-install it.
Thanks and yes, that’s exactly what it was! I took the new seal out into better lighting and saw that it had one in it so all is good! Thanks again!
Does anyone know the average cost to have this completed by a small engine shop? I've done enough troubleshooting to determine this is the problem with my tractor, but this is getting beyond what I have time to complete. I'm trying to gauge if it's worth my money to get it repaired or buy a new mower.
Hello. I’m unsure of what the cost would be. I’d call a local shop and inquire. I’m guessing a few hundred bucks. I’ve done it twice now and the second time went much quicker. I’d imagine a shop could bang it out pretty quick. However, I’d get a new mower. The mechanism will fail again. I’ve gone through two now and I’m not replacing it a third time. My opinion. Best of luck.
How much does a mechanic charge for a Briggs and Stratton 17.5hp replacing cam shaft?
Unsure, but I’ve heard from others thats it’s around the $400 mark.
@@FastFixTH-cam thanks
I don't see an oil pump shaft. I didn't notice anything fall out and I didn't take one out and you didn't mention or show one in the video. How is the camshaft turning the oilpump? I have a new oil pump with all the parts on order.
Look at 9:43. I install the oil pump shaft at that time. I assume your engine is also a 330000 series like mine, but if it isn’t, it may have a different oiling system that I’m not aware of. But if there’s a provision in the motor for a oil pump shaft, it’s got to be somewhere. Make sure it’s not hiding in the case!
4 yrs later and I'm back again with the same issue. Ugh! Mower does not want to turn over and afraid its most likely the same problem. So, now deciding to whether spend $150 and replace this camshaft once again, or - throw the towel in, get a different mower (And not a Briggs Motor). At least I can say I squeezed out 9.5 yrs of mower life with one camshaft replacement. LOL
Been there my friend! I’ve had mine apart 3 times since owning it. Before you tear into the motor again, adjust valve lash according to factory specs. Might get lucky trying that. If electric mowers weren’t $7,000 I’d have got that route a couple years ago. Best of luck, but those engines are cursed.
@@FastFixTH-cam Yep, I'm going to check the valve lash first, and also rotate the shaft to see if I can feel/view a bump in the valve to indicate whether the compression spring is still working or most likely shattered again into pieces. Fun times. Thanks again for your video as it will help me through this process.
@@FastFixTH-cam Looks like I may have other issues. Valve lash was good. Removed engine from mower, and took apart the sump cover and discovered two small pieces laying there. But, not certain if these pieces were left over from my first replacement of the camshaft and I just didnt see them, or... something else is going on. Camshaft looks intact. Only noticed that sometimes the spring loaded compression release part does not seem to have the same amount of tension all the time. I guess I'll be placing the new camshaft in, then hoping all works ok.
This video helped me replace the original camshaft when the compression release on my lawn tractor failed about 2 years ago. It has since failed again, with probably no more than 60 hours on the replacement cam. Unacceptable imo. Such a bad design. I'm going to repair it and sell the tractor and probably get an electric one.
Lol, this is almost my exact response to another post! I’m going to do the same. Awful design.
What is the torque for the casing cover bolts?
Hello. 220 inch pounds. Thanks for the question 👍
Just got done replacing the cam.Used the marks we talked about and she fired right up!Thank you.Now the problem I have is it was spitting oil out of the muffler.Could it be because I drained all the oil and refilled it and it pushed it into the head when pressure was built at first?Any thoughts?Thanks for the help.Its awesome to have people like you.Keep up the good work.
Bill s glad it fired up for you! Yep, the whole point of my video was to expose B&S for a bad design and more importantly, help people save $$$ by fixing the problem themselves.
Oil out the muffler is odd...theoretically, any oil blowing out the exhaust valve would be burned by the motor and you'd see blue smoke, not oil. I'd let the motor run for a while and see what happens. If oil continues to leak out the muffler, id look at new piston rings or valve steam seals.
Also, if you didn't use a gasket on the valve cover, it's likely that it's leaking oil onto the muffler. FYI.
If you turned the engine upside down as in this video it is not unusual to have a bit of oil or blue smoke come out of the exhaust for a short time when you first crank it back up.
Hi there, I have the same problem and I was wondering if you did found out what was the problem.
Is this on a twin cylinder
See reply to your first question
Love the detail
Great vid.Was wondering if you could answer a question?Had a friend helping me because the same thing happened to my engine.Anyway,he removed the camshaft before I had the timing marks lined up! Will this be an issue if I spin the crank to allow for the cam to line up?Also my crank gear has a divot mark and what appears to be a small cutout about 180 out.Do I use the divot mark to time?Thanks.
Bill s Bill s hello. No, it shouldn't be an issue. Spinning the crank independent of the cam won't have any adverse effects. Go ahead and spin the crank to set the timing mark in the proper location. There should only be one divot mark to set timing on the crank. If there's another mark, I'd do some research and try to figure out what it is. Otherwise, line up the two similar divot marks and you'll be good. Thanks for watching.
Blueoyster5.Thank you so much for the help.I did look at the gear on the crank and the other mark I said about appears to look like a key&keyway.Is that possible?
Bill s I'm somewhat puzzled what kind of mark (other than a divot for timing) would be on the crankshaft drive gear. The camshaft gear has other marks on it one of which looks like a key way, but other than that I'm a little puzzled. I'd go with using the divots for timing then spin the motor by hand and make sure everything is operating correctly. Obviously, interference is bad! Haha, best of luck.
Blueoyster5 thanks that is the mark I will use.Keep up the good work
Where do i find the mark for timing
Hello. The timing marks are found on the face of both gear sets. it will look like an arrow or triangle. Just make sure they're pointing at each other and you're good.
Blueoyster5,,,,,,Was your mower hard to crank,,,,when the deprression spring broke?,,,,Thanks
Crank cover bolt torque?
Hello. 220 inch pounds. Thanks for the question
Whats the tork rating
Hello. Please check the description for torque values. Should be the same or close to the same for a twin cylinder.
What is the torque specs please?
Hello.
Sump bolt torque is 220 inch pounds
Oil pump cover is 90 inch pounds
I tried adjusting valves on a briggs 331877 2371 G1 and it still wouldn't crank. How can you tell for sure that the compression release is broken before tear down?
19ztu47 sounds like you’re having the same issue as me, but to be certain:
-remove the spark plug
-spin the motor by hand until you reach the compression stroke then continue to turn the engine until a little past TDC on the compression stroke
-Install the spark plug and try to start it.
-if the motor turns and fires, you bet it’s the compression relief mechanism
-if the motor spins, but doesn’t start and becomes locked, it’s the compression mechanism.
-so either way, the compression relief mechanism is probably your problem. Best of luck!
Thanks Blueoyster5. I pulled my dipstick tube and pulled some pieces of compression release out with a magnet. Time to tear it apart.
19ztu47 wow... I’m still amazed this happens. Give B&S a call and complain. They need to know. They blew me off when I did, but maybe things have changed. Good luck.
Can I ask why you removed the oil pump cover?
You’re right, that probably wasn’t necessary. I assumed there’d be some internal connection to the motor.
Only 3 screws.... Remove it, then after installation, reinstall it and it will be quicker!
@@JodBronson absolutely right. It IS easier to remove this. Lining up the knotch is a breeze with the covet off.
@@howardtoob - 100% !!!
Did you replace the tappets??
You’re testing my memory, but I believe I did. I know the new cam came with new rappers.
hi, can you put the link to where you get the parts you needed to replace. I need the same, but cant find it. Thx
Sure. Let me locate. Finding parts for these is half the battle.
Okay, here are the part numbers. From the site jackssmallengines.com. Keep in mind, these parts are for this specific engine. If your engine is not included in this series, they may not fit.
- engine: 331977-0004-G1-121025Z
-camshaft: 84005207
-crankcase gasket: 697110
@@FastFixTH-cam B&S PN for the cam is 793880. Amazon has lots of them for sale.
Great awesome job dude
Robeft Yearian glad you enjoyed, man! I appreciate the comment.
How old was the motor when this happened? We just bought a poulan pro with a Briggs and Stratton intek 19 hp. Should I be concerned about this happening anytime soon?
Eric Yost I believe my motor had around 100 hours on it. If your B&S engine has the compression relief feature, then yes, I'd be concerned.
Blueoyster5 they all do dont they?
I'm not sure, but I assume some engines are different...like the two cylinder models. But I could be wrong. They might all have the compression relief feature. You'd have to check your engine model with B&S and find out.
You dont know if Brigg and Stratton fixed this issue to prevent it?
That's correct. I'm unaware if B&S has fixed the issue. From what I can see on the internet, they have done nothing.
I just finished mine but after 1 complete turn it locks up, not sure what it could be?
Hmm, you’re getting interference from somewhere. Definitely don’t force rotation. Pull the cover off the case and make sure nothing is interfering internally. If you get interference free internal rotation, you’ve got something coming into contact on the cover. Check the dots on your crank gear to cam gear. Make sure those are lining up. Maybe check the inside of the cover and look for scoring marks from metal to metal contact... also check the seating of the parts you installed. Make sure everything is pressed together correctly. Hope this helps!
@@FastFixTH-cam check the valves
@Blueoyster5 ,I am currently working on my undergraduate final project. I would like to know if it is possible to get the design information of the camshaft gear in the video above and how ( in respect the addendum ,dedendum, PCD etc.). my research suggest a material that may likely fit in as a possible replacement for the nylon 66 made gear . I anticipate your reply soonest.
Hello. That sort of design information was not included in the manual of the camshaft, but I’ve included a link to the camshaft and it’s manufacturer. I’m sure they will provide you that information if their legal department allows it. Best of luck on your project.
shop.briggsandstratton.com/products/briggs-and-stratton-793880-camshaft
Did you honestly think a random youtuber would provide you with this information?
What was the torque on the sump cover
Anthony French. 220 inch pounds
Anthony juhasz whatever you feel comfortable with. I just replace the head gasket and 21 horse with an impact 130 foot pound and I didn't buy a new head gasket i use gasket maker soldering wire and an exhaust gasket from a 2000 Ford Expedition runs fine.
thank you you help me figure out what those broken parts was in mine just like yours that's all that broke
Yeah, it’s a pretty common failure part...which is crazy!
I have a problem when I align timing marks my rod cap hits my cam lobe?
paul metcalf that is indeed a problem. Make sure the cam is fully seated, i.e: pushed back into the case as far as it can go. Try and maneuver around the rod cap if possible when seating the cam. If you can't, I'd say you probably have the wrong camshaft. Obviously, they should not interfere. Best of luck!
I let it run for a little and no more oil spitting out.And I didn't use a casket on the cover,just permatex.However I did see where oil was coming out.i also called b&s and they recommended that instead of a gasket. Because of the model date.I Also told them their products are shit!Do you think it would hurt to put a gasket on?Thanks again for all of your help.May God bless you sir.
Bill s Funny B&S recommended you to not use a gasket. I tried using a gasket compound, but it always leaked. I ended up using a valve cover gasket and it's leak free now. If you did a cam swap you can certainly install a valve cover gasket with no problem. Glad you told them what's what! Haha, take care.
To prevent this in the future... NEVER run your Engine full RPM. I always run mine at 3rd and that is it. Surprisingly, all my stuff left over from my Gram-pa still working. Some are actually from the 70's!
To quote the entire population, “they don’t make em like they used to.”
I don’t think there’s any evidence to suggest that max RPM is responsible for the failure of this part. Rather, I believe it’s poor functional design has fundamental problems in the longevity of its operation.
Thanks for the comment!
@@FastFixTH-cam - Well, RUN FULL all the time and see! Also, I can see YOU ARE NOT that smart in the video !!! 😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️
I can’t tell if you’re joking or not, but I suppose the TH-cam community can decide. Looking forward to the discussion by other commenters.
I have one of these engines. Had to replace the cam at less than 100 hours. Just turned over 400 hours and the compression release is broken, again.
This engine is *never* run at full throttle, 3/4 throttle at most. And the oil & filter are changed every 25 hours. Castrol 30w & BS filter.
It says right in the manual to always run the engine at full throttle. Of course I'm sure you're one of those people that think the company is just telling you that so that the engine wears out sooner.
I need caim shaft
Buy two! Just in case 😂👍
I agree, poor design, most likely due to funding, I wish I would of researched a little better before buying. Great vid! Thanks
Yup, same here. I’ve had two fail so far. I want to get rid of the machine and replace with electric. You’re welcome on the vid 👍
Same problem with mine
kevinerickson84 sorry to hear that. Such a ridiculous problem.
Dude..showing HOW to rake out and replace the cam is what people want to see,you buzzed right through that. And..you do NOT use grease on the cam,it will clog your oil pump,regular mower oil will do the job,and NO ,you DO worry about a little gasket sealer inside,it also will clog you oil pump. But hey,other than that,good video...lol
Really? This video is good enough for folks who want direction on the cam replacement. I showed most of the process and included torque values. What else is there? Assembly lube won’t clog the oil pump. It looks like you missed several things from this video and in your comment, but other than that, good comment…lol
disapointing video
Hello. In what way was the video disappointing? Thanks in advance.