I’ve been researching this exact project! This is why you’re the best RV producer out there. Relevant and timely content, detailed but you don’t loose your audience in the minutia and masterful at making / explaining complex issues easy to overcome or understand. Keep up the great work Jared!
Rack up+go just released a video showing “lab” tests of the dometic rxt blowing the doors off of the nomadic x3. All dc A/Cs are not variable speed the dometic rxt is. Just providing a little updates information for those researching.
You are always very thorough with lots of information. I have about the same system as you. The Honda 2000 will run all day at 10.3 amps not enough to run air, so it assist the battery bank. Find cooler temperature and camp there.
Fantastic video showing all available options from many different companies. Since your video we have added 48 volt options and a larger MAXX unit that is perfect for bigger Rv’s. The MAXX is 18k BTU and our HD is now 10k BTU. 🎉🎉
I considered many of the same issues when it came time to self build my trailer. I took a fairly well-built cargo trailer and went with 4in of polyiso, top bottom and sides. Put on 2000 watts of solar and 30000 watts of lithium batteries, and I can heat cool cook and watch my big screen as much as I want. This thing is better than a Yeti cooler.
@@patyp.7401 Check out great outdoors solar they have a video on a complete mini split installation they did on their own RV and they also have a shop now where they do installations I think you'll find it very informative good luck
A very informative video. One of the things you didn’t mention was noise. The home mini split units are very quiet. You can run them and the camera at the same time and you will not hear the AC running. Sizing the unit is very important. If you have a C class there’s probably no reason why you can’t run a 9000 BTU/12,000 peak BTU how many split very low wattage. You are a 35 foot unit though is another story. Also the whole mini splits have the ability to get rid of humidity which is pretty important in an RV. I’m a big fan obviously, mainly because of the noise.
Thank you for this video! I have been exploring this for a while. I am a commercial builder and have had dozens of these put in on projects, but have not found an ac contractor who has done a RV build. It looks like in a few years the prices may drop after the early adopters show how it can be done.
Great info Jared! Great job with the explanation. We all want more…but do we want to « pay » more…for comfort! We have decided to go the 2000W generator way + lithium + 3000 inverter. If we need more power, we crank up the generator. Simple, efficient, always available…
The reality is most RVs are not well insulated and sealed well enough to provide for extremely efficient hvac comfort. RV air conditioners just can’t process enough air through a 14”x14” vent mount to adequately cool a large RV. So with poor insulation and minimum cooling efficiency, the ac unit is going to keep running with little to no cycling. An extremely efficient designed AC compressor and fan might be able to save a few more amps of power but the reality is the change in Freon 20 yrs ago reduced the cooling efficiency of ac systems. If the RV was well insulated I.e. the R values were higher and the seams sealed better , and better windows, the ac units would be able to cycle allowing for longer battery powered off grid run time. The River Ranch RV is one change in design that looks promising, they use a 120v mini split instead the standard RV ac unit or an expensive dc ac unit. Some of the mini splits have very high SEER ratings so they are very efficient at delivering cooling. I think the real change has to come in a better insulated RVs and implementing technology such as using a multi zone mini split system.
This makes no sense... A high EER system will always be better. Some of these minisplits can push 12,000 btu like a standard RV ac unit at half the wattage. Nothing about RV insulation has any affect on that. If you didn't know minisplits have multi head units that can run 2 -4 indoor heads off if a single outdoor compressor. Also you seem to not understand that minisplits are inverter based which means they don't cycle on and off. They run 100% of the time and just dial down the output to match the heat input of the room. That right there makes them far more efficient.
Thanks for an informative video. There is one DC powered mini-split you missed, the Hotspot 48V DC heat-pump which has an average draw of less than 500w because of its outstanding efficiency (19.1 EER) with a max power draw of 980 watts. The last I checked they were priced in the $2,100 range. It also runs in reverse, producing economical heat too. I plan on installing one along with the second phase of my solar system after the first of the year. I will run it off a 48v bank of 16 of the new 310ah prismatic LiFePo-4 cells from China. This will produce 14.5-15kwh of power depending on how deeply you cycle them, which will be able to run this AC unit 24/7 if needed. I plan on racking about 3,000 watts of solar above my roof top AC shrouds, vents, etc. to charge this big bank. I will retain the 620 watt array I currently have on the side of my MH and will be swapping out my current 12v lead acid bank for a 620ah 12v lithium bank made from 8 of these 310ah cells. All this will be expensive, (in the $9-$10k range) but I'm a FTer who likes to boondock most of the time. This will allow me to live completely off grid, giving me a ROI in the 3-4 year range factoring in the savings from, not only grid electric cost, but CG and RV park fees, generator fuel and propane heating costs.
You're the bomb!! I'm going to research this. Everyone thinks I'm crazy, or they say it "can't be done" to run ac on solar for more than a few hours. I'm the type that will figure it out, one way or another! This is helpful!! Thank you!
@@consciouscoffeeplussugar2658 I think the "you can't run ac off solar" is from before the era of good and cheap lithium batteries. Thankfully we're now solidly in that era. And @Chip, well done!
AC/DC Mini Split's cost allot more than a average Della or Pioneer 9000 BTU. I went with a AC mini BUT I have a auto transfer switch. Solar arrays and home service AC used in appropriate conditions and time. Heating with a 9000AC mini and it was 19F but inside my little home I was nice and warm. Love these Mini Splits what a game changer!
As always you are the best at taking the complex and explaining it in easy to understand terms. You have made our RV life/trips much easier. Fantastic!
I'm building a 26' schoolie. It will have a 12" roof raise and a minimum R21 in the walls and ceilings. I will be able to cool the interior in 100+ degree temps and heat it easily in negative temps The key here is excellent insulation. And the truth is, commercial rvs are built for balmy days.
RecPro has some A/C units that are very efficient, have built-in soft starts, and they now have a 12-volt option. I've been curious about them, but I do not know anyone that has one or how good they are.
Thanks so much for the insight. We just put deposit on an escape trailer and was looking for alternatives ac units. I'm sure by the time we take delivery 2023, the technology will have changed, along with solar panels and battery banks. So we're going simple and hoping for great improvements in the very near future. Again thanks for answering so many of my questions.
Yooper Dog, Are you going to install your AC in your Escape or are you going to pay someone to do it? I'm getting a Casita Travel Trailer in about 18 months and I will probably put in a split dry AC. Let us know which system you're going to get. Good Luck!
Thanks for the survey report on a/c options for RV’s. Very informative and up-to-date! I currently have soft start packs on my Coleman units but am considering upgrading my house battery capacity and that may permit use of a direct DC air conditioner in the sleeping area. 👍
I've been wondering when one of the big makers of mini-splits will add a standard RV cutout sized "cassette" drop in option (with side ducting options for ducted systems). Seems like a no brainer for someone to make these.
I'm an A/C contractor and trying to adapt a cassette air handler to my TT. The old unit is 14X14, but the cassette is about 22X22. It won't fit the opening, without cutting one of the roof trusses. I won't do that, so I'm looking at replacing the current package Coleman with a roof ventilator. Then cut a new opening through the roof to accommodate the new cassette air handler. I'll also go 240 volt, with a 120-240 transformer. My biggest concern is mounting the outdoor unit to the bumper. It's not very substantial.
Well maybe its time to find some investors and make it happen (I'm in btw :-). As long as you can get a patent and a good prototype, a company would probably buy you out before you even had to build your distribution network.
Great overview of the options Jared. I agree that the generator will be the best option for most. We've been running our A/C (with EasyStart) off and on lately with solar/lithium. It averages about 120A like you say. Using it to maintain a temp is much more doable than trying to cool down your rig once it's already hot.
How about a large solar generator with a couple solar panels and existing onboard gas generator as backup? No more need for convertor,house battreries,or inverter! Plus solar panels can plug right in no controller needed!
Great info....I will have to check into some more of these options to give customers with our solar builds...I have been a little skeptical on if these residential mini splits can really handle all the vibration and bouncing down the road constantly.....
I wish they would make a mini split that works with Cassettes in the roof so we can swap out the old roof top units for the lower profile cassettes and mount the outside unit un a bay or back bumper. And since most RV's have an alterante heating source already built int we don't need the cassettes heating strip in them. But they only come in 240 volt and that's super expensive to build a solar system to run it. Oh well, eventually they'll figure out the RV Market and get rich when they do.
Jared- I have the Atwood 13.5 and it's really nice, but since mine is the ductless, the fan runs all the time and the compressor kicks on and off. So not only is there a constant power-draw, it is noisy. But we learned to live with it so it's no big deal to us. Not sure there is any energy savings relative to off grid with the fan constantly running.
Just for more information I added a booster capacitor called hard start to each of my air conditioners. One was 13.5 BTU and 15 Btu and am able to run one at a time with my 1560 watt solar and 6 battle born batteries each 100 amp hour. Only cost me $11 per can and cuts down the startup power by 40%.
Great video! Just a heads up to those who didn't know this: California has recently enacted a ban on the sale of gasoline powered generators and other small internal combustion engine powered equipment. Other states are working on similar legislation. While California has stated they will not ban the use of existing small engines, don't be surprised if local regulations ban their use. Also, don't be surprised if California, or the other states considering this legislation, eventually outright ban the use of small internal combustion engines. That will be a "game-changer" for those who use small engine powered generators for off-grid living.
Interesting that you said that to get the most power out of your solar panels you have to park in full sun. This seems like a paradox, because when you park in full sun, you put more heat load on your unit, meaning that if you are NOT using solar panels, you CAN park in the shade, and that would mean you need less power for your A/C. So then, I wonder if you want to be off grid but still have A/C, wouldn't wind power (windmills) be a better choice overall, since you would also be able to park in the shade!
Find a tree or put out your awning, and get a solar powered baseball cap (with a tiny fan). These AC units are pricey. An old fashioned swamp cooler - that takes water - exists these days on a little stand. Its AMP usage is likely very low, and if you're in dry hot country, the little extra humidity will be a welcome relief.
Are there any can exactly fit into place of old A/C hole without new ducting? We have a fiberglass trailer and just looking to replace the loud Dometic Penguin.
Since you have a Victron Inverter, it has a peak wattage 2X the size of the inverter. Why did you install a softstart? I have a Multiplus 3000 and it starts the AC without overloading the inverter.
Yes you are right it’s not completely necessary but it helps if other things are on and also if we have a generator running for the AC. It’s more of a help for the generator.
Great video, thank so much for this. I am completely new to this, in the process of buying a new Grand Design Imagin XLS and it has the duct work for a/c. If these systems can work, then I may have the service department install it for me. Can the Nomadic AC and/or the Cruise N Comfort utilize the roof ducts that helps to evenly distribute the cool in the trailer? The coach of the travel trailer is 22 foot long. Do ya think 8,000 BTUs can keep the trailer cool in 105*F summers if it is constantly running? I'm going to have a solar system with a 600 amp bank, so i'm looking for something that is more energy efficient that can utilize Grand Design's a/c ducts. Thank you and looking forward to reading your thoughts.
Hi Jared. I have been wondering, when you are traveling, is it ok to put a slide out while remaining hooked to the truck? Would you need to put the jacks down? I can access all areas of my current travel trailer when traveling. I am interested in possibly purchasing a toy hauler that has a slide that would need to be out in order to use the bed. Hope you are enjoying your summer. Thank you for all of your hard work providing us with awesome videos. Much appreciated!
It would be nice to but 600 watts have been working so well for us but it comes down to cost and weight. I thought it would be nice to have some lightweight portable solar panels I can have on the ground to tilt towards the sun when needed. Maybe some day I’ll add to it.
I wish pioneer or one of the other brands would just make the indoor unit to replace a standard dometic style air handler. then just run the 110 to the bumper for the outside unit.
I noticed your content with 3 lion batteries and your running a 3000 50 amp Victron could you revisit this before I do some $$$$$ damage with 4-6 batteries
I mean, there's nothing saying I can't use multiple of the DC powered mini-split. I can also increase the R-value of my RV to retain more of that cooling. One thing I don't see is if this AC also does heating via a heat pump.
The cruise n comfort does not heat. Nor does it provide any means of getting rid of humidity. The basic home mini split provides heating, cooling, and gets rid of humidity.
Hello. Do larger inverters use more power than smaller inverters. If so should we use more than 1 inverter so we only use what we need. Such as using a smaller inverter for only what we need while overnighting?
My opinion is that multiple inverters raises the cost and complexity of your system. Buy the inverter that you need, not the inverter that you want. A power audit of how much power you actually use on a daily basis should be where you start. Larger inverters tend to have a higher standby power consumption than smaller inverters. It's all a trade off. A high quality inverter like the Victron Multiplus could be a lot more efficient than the inverters at Harbor Freight.
Thanks for another great video on RVING. We have 400 watts of renogy panels on our Reflection and 300 amp hours of Battleborn lithium batteries. I was wondering if we should have more solar? We are planning on 4 months in Alaska next summer. I was thinking of 200 watts that we could fold out and point towards the sun. Thoughts?
I think that’s a great idea. If you did the extra 200 watts when needed that is exactly what we had when we went to Alaska and it worked well. We had to use the generator a bit for the cloudy weeks but it worked well.
How loud are the A/C units you talked about? And will they fit into the same opening as the A/C that came with the RV? (In my case, a Casita.) Thank you.
My experience with the units that fit the standard opening is that they are very loud compared to a home mini split. Even the cruise n comfort is quite loud.
They do, Houghton RV A/C units are one of the most efficient A/C units out their. At 13,500BTU it only draws 8ish amps of power and has built in soft-start.
Why doesn't Coleman-Mach, Dometic, and Furrion include soft-start circuitry? Patents and Royalties they'd have to pay other companies for something you may not need. That said, I'd love to see the option.
Perhaps others might chime in on this issue as well. At 85 degrees 65A x 12VDC = 780 Watts. How does that compare with what the RV manufacturers are installing? I anticipate Eco mode is not relevant as it wont cool the coach down. According to Jared on video he said his pulls 120 amps to be apples to apples dont we want to know Watts 120 amps x120V = 14,400 Watts which cant be correct. I've heard most 15000 btu units pull 1500 Watts after initial startup.
The 120 amps are from the batteries at 12 volts DC which is close to 12 amps at 120v AC. Our Mach 15000BTU when I checked last week was around the 1450 watt range for the mid 90 for temp. Our Furrion we used to have that was 15,500btu was typically over 1600 watts when we were in the mid 90’s. Eco mode on the unit from what I have seen is the lower power use it drops to once it hits the temp setting. The mini split Ac units usually have a variable speed compressor and fan so you can save energy once you hit your temp.
It would be easy to put high wattage panels on your RV Roof to produce more than enough to run the AC and charge batteries from around 10am to 5 or 6pm. Mount the panels a few inches off the roof for air flow and some are using servo motor trays for additional panels to stick out. That is extreme I know, just sayin. We live in our RV full time off grid, no moving it. So what we need is a replacement rooftop unit that has air/heat and is a inverter technology high SEER drop in unit. Why is it taking them so long to do it?
I wish someone would talk about the size of solar panels like 100 watts to 200 watts to 300 watts. is a 300 w solar panel three times the size of 100 watt or no. they never seem to give information on that
I kept hearing efficiency and you say 1350btu and 1500o btu. I don't see those as efficiency numbers but as cooling capacity. I think a better comparison of efficiency would be Watts per btu or even SEER ratings. You know way more about power than I do though. I just don't see less BTUH as meaning they are more efficient. I'm sure you didn't mean to imply that but it sounded that way to me. that 8k BTU unit is not much cooling capacity. It can be efficient but 8k is not going to cool much at all in the heat of summer. It might do a bedroom if you can close it off from the rest of the rig on a 95 degree Texas day.
That seems like a huge Amp draw for a mini split unless you're talking different numbers than I'm seeing. People running 12k residential mini splits are showing draws of 5-8 Amps. Am I missing something obvious?
If you already have solar and an inverter, why not just get a smaller sized mini split (made for homes ) that runs on AC instead of an overpriced DC unit made for RVs?
hmmm that does not make it easier to decide... I am still leaning towards the residential units, I have seen Watts that beat everything presented here, by a lot! Must have BTUs, SEER, AC or DC, Watts... People have 48V, 24V, 12V systems, Amps makes it harder to visualize.
Thanks Jared. This one is timely for us as well. I’m going a different direction with an install of a standard 18000 BTU (21.3 SEER) System with 2 9k heads as I plan to disconnect and remove the existing Dometic roof mounts in our 5th Wheel hence, I will reuse the existing 20 Amp circuits to power the units. We typically only stay in parks where we have 50 Amp service so we don’t have the boon-docking requirements. Do you have any thoughts or gotchas on this approach?
A friend of mine did pretty much the same as you did. He used a Mitsubishi H2i unit, similar to the one on his house, on his 5th wheel. The biggest things that sold him on the Mitsubishi are: the one on his house has performed flawlessly, the high SEER rating and the fact that Mitsubishi repair technicians and parts can be easily found if need be.
Glad to see your video, I’ve been looking at mini splits myself , there’s a few videos of people installing residential mini splits and running them all the time. Very interested myself. Worth while investment.
Let me see, to run this thing on solar power, I must park my RV in bright sunlight, no shade. The RV would get hot as hell sitting out there in the sunlight. I'd get a couple of hours of run time for what, a 600 BTU unit that would barely keep my bathroom cool? Oh, add more batteries! What does that do? I'd get maybe 8 hrs of run time the first day and then two hours every day thereafter! It adds maybe 300 lbs to my RV. A minimal installation would be 1400 BTU AC for a medium sized RV. In direct sunlight on a hot day, you'd have to run the thing at a 100% duty-cycle. Assuming 100% efficiency, that's 470 W or 39A. Assuming that the arrays produce full rated power, that's four large panels. You won't get full efficiency. The sun won't be directly overhead all the time. A bit of dirt or dust will reduce power as will any cloud cover. Maybe you'd have to double the array to eight panels. You'd need a huge array just to run an AC that's too small. Let us know after you've installed this and have some real-world data to back up performance.
Your effort is appreciated, but pretty useless. Stop talking Ah and talk Wh. Also you are comparing 6000btu units to 13000btu units and claiming the 6000 is drawing less Ah. That doesnt make the 6000btu unit more efficient. It's mixing apples, oranges, and lemons.
I’ve been researching this exact project!
This is why you’re the best RV producer out there. Relevant and timely content, detailed but you don’t loose your audience in the minutia and masterful at making / explaining complex issues easy to overcome or understand. Keep up the great work Jared!
Thank you, that is very kind.
Yep, Jared is my go-to for all things RV and I’ve been rv-ing for more than 20 years!
Best purchase I’ve made for our houseboat!! It’s cold and quiet.
Rack up+go just released a video showing “lab” tests of the dometic rxt blowing the doors off of the nomadic x3. All dc A/Cs are not variable speed the dometic rxt is. Just providing a little updates information for those researching.
actually came to this video after watching that one!
You just blew my mind
finally a RV solution
You are always very thorough with lots of information. I have about the same system as you. The Honda 2000 will run all day at 10.3 amps not enough to run air, so it assist the battery bank. Find cooler temperature and camp there.
Thank you, Always a good plan to find cooler temps.
Fantastic video showing all available options from many different companies. Since your video we have added 48 volt options and a larger MAXX unit that is perfect for bigger Rv’s. The MAXX is 18k BTU and our HD is now 10k BTU. 🎉🎉
This is the you tube content I'm here for.
Thanks
I considered many of the same issues when it came time to self build my trailer. I took a fairly well-built cargo trailer and went with 4in of polyiso, top bottom and sides. Put on 2000 watts of solar and 30000 watts of lithium batteries, and I can heat cool cook and watch my big screen as much as I want. This thing is better than a Yeti cooler.
How many batteries did you need to get to make this work! Can you be more specific we would love to run a mini split in our Rv with solar
@@patyp.7401 Check out great outdoors solar they have a video on a complete mini split installation they did on their own RV and they also have a shop now where they do installations I think you'll find it very informative good luck
30000 watts!?!?! Isn't that like the equivalent of like 25 100AH batteries?
@jeremyspecce actually, a tad more.
Four homemade lithium iron phosphate at a little over 7100 watt hr each.
I put a second system on the Towing unit with a fifth battery of the same size, but only 600 watts of solar.
One of your best videos. You really explained the a/c possibilities so even a dummy, like me, could follow you.
Thank you.
A very informative video. One of the things you didn’t mention was noise. The home mini split units are very quiet. You can run them and the camera at the same time and you will not hear the AC running.
Sizing the unit is very important. If you have a C class there’s probably no reason why you can’t run a 9000 BTU/12,000 peak BTU how many split very low wattage. You are a 35 foot unit though is another story.
Also the whole mini splits have the ability to get rid of humidity which is pretty important in an RV. I’m a big fan obviously, mainly because of the noise.
Thank you for this video!
I have been exploring this for a while. I am a commercial builder and have had dozens of these put in on projects, but have not found an ac contractor who has done a RV build. It looks like in a few years the prices may drop after the early adopters show how it can be done.
Great info Jared! Great job with the explanation. We all want more…but do we want to « pay » more…for comfort! We have decided to go the 2000W generator way + lithium + 3000 inverter. If we need more power, we crank up the generator. Simple, efficient, always available…
Thank you!
Dude, you're killing me. Love from Tucson.
Living in Arizona good information we are part time rv folks but always good to keep up on technology thanks
The reality is most RVs are not well insulated and sealed well enough to provide for extremely efficient hvac comfort. RV air conditioners just can’t process enough air through a 14”x14” vent mount to adequately cool a large RV. So with poor insulation and minimum cooling efficiency, the ac unit is going to keep running with little to no cycling. An extremely efficient designed AC compressor and fan might be able to save a few more amps of power but the reality is the change in Freon 20 yrs ago reduced the cooling efficiency of ac systems. If the RV was well insulated I.e. the R values were higher and the seams sealed better , and better windows, the ac units would be able to cycle allowing for longer battery powered off grid run time. The River Ranch RV is one change in design that looks promising, they use a 120v mini split instead the standard RV ac unit or an expensive dc ac unit. Some of the mini splits have very high SEER ratings so they are very efficient at delivering cooling. I think the real change has to come in a better insulated RVs and implementing technology such as using a multi zone mini split system.
This makes no sense... A high EER system will always be better. Some of these minisplits can push 12,000 btu like a standard RV ac unit at half the wattage. Nothing about RV insulation has any affect on that. If you didn't know minisplits have multi head units that can run 2 -4 indoor heads off if a single outdoor compressor. Also you seem to not understand that minisplits are inverter based which means they don't cycle on and off. They run 100% of the time and just dial down the output to match the heat input of the room. That right there makes them far more efficient.
For full timing how does Jared keep the RV so clean, the background in his videos are spotless. Nothing on the countertop. Nice video Jared.
Thanks for the compliment!
Dare I say … wife with a good eye … absolutely no disrespect to any party involved. 🥰👏🏽🇨🇦
Thanks for an informative video. There is one DC powered mini-split you missed, the Hotspot 48V DC heat-pump which has an average draw of less than 500w because of its outstanding efficiency (19.1 EER) with a max power draw of 980 watts. The last I checked they were priced in the $2,100 range. It also runs in reverse, producing economical heat too. I plan on installing one along with the second phase of my solar system after the first of the year. I will run it off a 48v bank of 16 of the new 310ah prismatic LiFePo-4 cells from China. This will produce 14.5-15kwh of power depending on how deeply you cycle them, which will be able to run this AC unit 24/7 if needed. I plan on racking about 3,000 watts of solar above my roof top AC shrouds, vents, etc. to charge this big bank. I will retain the 620 watt array I currently have on the side of my MH and will be swapping out my current 12v lead acid bank for a 620ah 12v lithium bank made from 8 of these 310ah cells. All this will be expensive, (in the $9-$10k range) but I'm a FTer who likes to boondock most of the time. This will allow me to live completely off grid, giving me a ROI in the 3-4 year range factoring in the savings from, not only grid electric cost, but CG and RV park fees, generator fuel and propane heating costs.
You're the bomb!! I'm going to research this. Everyone thinks I'm crazy, or they say it "can't be done" to run ac on solar for more than a few hours. I'm the type that will figure it out, one way or another!
This is helpful!! Thank you!
@@consciouscoffeeplussugar2658 I think the "you can't run ac off solar" is from before the era of good and cheap lithium batteries. Thankfully we're now solidly in that era. And @Chip, well done!
AC/DC Mini Split's cost allot more than a average Della or Pioneer 9000 BTU. I went with a AC mini BUT I have a auto transfer switch. Solar arrays and home service AC used in appropriate conditions and time. Heating with a 9000AC mini and it was 19F but inside my little home I was nice and warm. Love these Mini Splits what a game changer!
As always you are the best at taking the complex and explaining it in easy to understand terms. You have made our RV life/trips much easier. Fantastic!
Thank you, glad it has helped.
"Always going too be a cost involved" and Dometic guarantees it with every purchase!!
I'm building a 26' schoolie. It will have a 12" roof raise and a minimum R21 in the walls and ceilings. I will be able to cool the interior in 100+ degree temps and heat it easily in negative temps
The key here is excellent insulation. And the truth is, commercial rvs are built for balmy days.
RecPro has some A/C units that are very efficient, have built-in soft starts, and they now have a 12-volt option. I've been curious about them, but I do not know anyone that has one or how good they are.
I would love to test one out
Thanks so much for the insight. We just put deposit on an escape trailer and was looking for alternatives ac units. I'm sure by the time we take delivery 2023, the technology will have changed, along with solar panels and battery banks. So we're going simple and hoping for great improvements in the very near future. Again thanks for answering so many of my questions.
Glad it helped and congratulations on ordering the new RV.
Yooper Dog,
Are you going to install your AC in your Escape or are you going to pay someone to do it? I'm getting a Casita Travel Trailer in about 18 months and I will probably put in a split dry AC. Let us know which system you're going to get. Good Luck!
@@tampahiker5334 we changed our minds and canceled escape and went with a scout truck camper so wife feels comfortable driving.
Thanks for the survey report on a/c options for RV’s. Very informative and up-to-date! I currently have soft start packs on my Coleman units but am considering upgrading my house battery capacity and that may permit use of a direct DC air conditioner in the sleeping area. 👍
Thank you, glad it helped.
Enjoy your short, but data filled videos! Very cool
Thanks
Things are going in the right direction
Yes, I agree!
Great job presenting the options! Thanks for your work.
Don't forget about the 230v minisplits with EER's up near 40. You'd quickly save the money back spent on an inverter specifically for that
Victron makes a auto transformer that converts 120 v to 240 v to run the bigger mini splits.
I've been wondering when one of the big makers of mini-splits will add a standard RV cutout sized "cassette" drop in option (with side ducting options for ducted systems). Seems like a no brainer for someone to make these.
New Horizons ($$$$$$) does on their Majestic line
Call China
I'm an A/C contractor and trying to adapt a cassette air handler to my TT. The old unit is 14X14, but the cassette is about 22X22. It won't fit the opening, without cutting one of the roof trusses. I won't do that, so I'm looking at replacing the current package Coleman with a roof ventilator. Then cut a new opening through the roof to accommodate the new cassette air handler. I'll also go 240 volt, with a 120-240 transformer. My biggest concern is mounting the outdoor unit to the bumper. It's not very substantial.
Well maybe its time to find some investors and make it happen (I'm in btw :-). As long as you can get a patent and a good prototype, a company would probably buy you out before you even had to build your distribution network.
@@airbear17
Definitely patent your ideas.
Great overview of the options Jared. I agree that the generator will be the best option for most. We've been running our A/C (with EasyStart) off and on lately with solar/lithium. It averages about 120A like you say. Using it to maintain a temp is much more doable than trying to cool down your rig once it's already hot.
Thanks Brian, very true.
can the Generator run off a solar ?
@@AllAboutRVsI expect better from you, Brian! Ah?!!! What does 120Ah mean? Is that at 12v, 48v? You know better! Speak Wh.
@@dirksimmang Lol.
Nice comparison on those units.
How about a large solar generator with a couple solar panels and existing onboard gas generator as backup? No more need for convertor,house battreries,or inverter! Plus solar panels can plug right in no controller needed!
What are the SEER ratings on the ACU units you described
Great vid. Super informative! Thanks so much for taking the time to share.
Thank you!
You missed another important point...splits can also heating and dehumidification
the latest RV phenomenon
Kinda like the swamp cooler. Lightweight, modest cooling, though much better in low humidity areas.
Great info....I will have to check into some more of these options to give customers with our solar builds...I have been a little skeptical on if these residential mini splits can really handle all the vibration and bouncing down the road constantly.....
Thank you.
If they can handle hurricanes, hail storms, etc they can handle the vibrations. I put a damping foam pad under the feet.
I wish they would make a mini split that works with Cassettes in the roof so we can swap out the old roof top units for the lower profile cassettes and mount the outside unit un a bay or back bumper. And since most RV's have an alterante heating source already built int we don't need the cassettes heating strip in them. But they only come in 240 volt and that's super expensive to build a solar system to run it.
Oh well, eventually they'll figure out the RV Market and get rich when they do.
Definitely installing a mini split.
Jared- I have the Atwood 13.5 and it's really nice, but since mine is the ductless, the fan runs all the time and the compressor kicks on and off. So not only is there a constant power-draw, it is noisy. But we learned to live with it so it's no big deal to us. Not sure there is any energy savings relative to off grid with the fan constantly running.
Great Tips Good Stuff 👍😀
Thank you so much, I have been looking for a solution and have not found this mini split for a RV, we have a 18' RV that this will be perfect for.
Glad it helped!
Just for more information I added a booster capacitor called hard start to each of my air conditioners. One was 13.5 BTU and 15 Btu and am able to run one at a time with my 1560 watt solar and 6 battle born batteries each 100 amp hour. Only cost me $11 per can and cuts down the startup power by 40%.
You need a soft start device by Micro-Air, NOT a hard start.
@@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity not really a hard start it is a super booster capacitor.
Great video! Just a heads up to those who didn't know this: California has recently enacted a ban on the sale of gasoline powered generators and other small internal combustion engine powered equipment. Other states are working on similar legislation.
While California has stated they will not ban the use of existing small engines, don't be surprised if local regulations ban their use. Also, don't be surprised if California, or the other states considering this legislation, eventually outright ban the use of small internal combustion engines.
That will be a "game-changer" for those who use small engine powered generators for off-grid living.
Interesting that you said that to get the most power out of your solar panels you have to park in full sun. This seems like a paradox, because when you park in full sun, you put more heat load on your unit, meaning that if you are NOT using solar panels, you CAN park in the shade, and that would mean you need less power for your A/C.
So then, I wonder if you want to be off grid but still have A/C, wouldn't wind power (windmills) be a better choice overall, since you would also be able to park in the shade!
Very good information..
More innovative ideas should help
Thank you.
Find a tree or put out your awning, and get a solar powered baseball cap (with a tiny fan). These AC units are pricey. An old fashioned swamp cooler - that takes water - exists these days on a little stand. Its AMP usage is likely very low, and if you're in dry hot country, the little extra humidity will be a welcome relief.
Are there any can exactly fit into place of old A/C hole without new ducting? We have a fiberglass trailer and just looking to replace the loud Dometic Penguin.
Great information. Thanks for posting this.
Thank you!
Great job Jared!
Thank you Mark!
5* video. Thank You ,Bro
Awesome info 👌
Since you have a Victron Inverter, it has a peak wattage 2X the size of the inverter. Why did you install a softstart? I have a Multiplus 3000 and it starts the AC without overloading the inverter.
Yes you are right it’s not completely necessary but it helps if other things are on and also if we have a generator running for the AC. It’s more of a help for the generator.
Very interesting and informative. Thanks.
Thanks
Great video, thank so much for this. I am completely new to this, in the process of buying a new Grand Design Imagin XLS and it has the duct work for a/c. If these systems can work, then I may have the service department install it for me. Can the Nomadic AC and/or the Cruise N Comfort utilize the roof ducts that helps to evenly distribute the cool in the trailer? The coach of the travel trailer is 22 foot long. Do ya think 8,000 BTUs can keep the trailer cool in 105*F summers if it is constantly running? I'm going to have a solar system with a 600 amp bank, so i'm looking for something that is more energy efficient that can utilize Grand Design's a/c ducts. Thank you and looking forward to reading your thoughts.
Love this!
Thanks
FYI...the ACDC mini split is no where to be found in the US. I have searched high and low...no one seems to have any.
i can't find them either.
Your solar setup is great! Do you do installations?
Hi Jared. I have been wondering, when you are traveling, is it ok to put a slide out while remaining hooked to the truck? Would you need to put the jacks down? I can access all areas of my current travel trailer when traveling. I am interested in possibly purchasing a toy hauler that has a slide that would need to be out in order to use the bed. Hope you are enjoying your summer. Thank you for all of your hard work providing us with awesome videos. Much appreciated!
Excellent video
Thank you.
Hello, why haven't you upgrade the solar roof considering you still have space there?
It would be nice to but 600 watts have been working so well for us but it comes down to cost and weight. I thought it would be nice to have some lightweight portable solar panels I can have on the ground to tilt towards the sun when needed. Maybe some day I’ll add to it.
I wish pioneer or one of the other brands would just make the indoor unit to replace a standard dometic style air handler. then just run the 110 to the bumper for the outside unit.
Excellent!
I noticed your content with 3 lion batteries and your running a 3000 50 amp Victron could you revisit this before I do some $$$$$ damage with 4-6 batteries
I mean, there's nothing saying I can't use multiple of the DC powered mini-split. I can also increase the R-value of my RV to retain more of that cooling. One thing I don't see is if this AC also does heating via a heat pump.
The cruise n comfort does not heat. Nor does it provide any means of getting rid of humidity.
The basic home mini split provides heating, cooling, and gets rid of humidity.
Hello. Do larger inverters use more power than smaller inverters. If so should we use more than 1 inverter so we only use what we need. Such as using a smaller inverter for only what we need while overnighting?
My opinion is that multiple inverters raises the cost and complexity of your system. Buy the inverter that you need, not the inverter that you want. A power audit of how much power you actually use on a daily basis should be where you start. Larger inverters tend to have a higher standby power consumption than smaller inverters. It's all a trade off. A high quality inverter like the Victron Multiplus could be a lot more efficient than the inverters at Harbor Freight.
On sale, you can get 405W panels at SanTan Solar for $200
Really good RV stuff, I'm learning a lot... if I ever bump into you I definitely paying for dinner... you know McDonald's 😇
Thanks for another great video on RVING. We have 400 watts of renogy panels on our Reflection and 300 amp hours of Battleborn lithium batteries. I was wondering if we should have more solar? We are planning on 4 months in Alaska next summer. I was thinking of 200 watts that we could fold out and point towards the sun. Thoughts?
I think that’s a great idea. If you did the extra 200 watts when needed that is exactly what we had when we went to Alaska and it worked well. We had to use the generator a bit for the cloudy weeks but it worked well.
Good video!
How loud are the A/C units you talked about? And will they fit into the same opening as the A/C that came with the RV? (In my case, a Casita.) Thank you.
The first 2 we talked about fit standard openings.
My experience with the units that fit the standard opening is that they are very loud compared to a home mini split. Even the cruise n comfort is quite loud.
Other than costs, why modern AC manufacturers engineer a “soft-start” system in new units????
That would be nice, my big hope to see more mini split type of setups that have a variable speed compressor and in turn have lower starting amps.
They do, Houghton RV A/C units are one of the most efficient A/C units out their. At 13,500BTU it only draws 8ish amps of power and has built in soft-start.
@@jamesmatthews4840
Now, if all of the others would do the same!
Thanks!👍
Why doesn't Coleman-Mach, Dometic, and Furrion include soft-start circuitry? Patents and Royalties they'd have to pay other companies for something you may not need. That said, I'd love to see the option.
Perhaps others might chime in on this issue as well. At 85 degrees 65A x 12VDC = 780 Watts. How does that compare with what the RV manufacturers are installing? I anticipate Eco mode is not relevant as it wont cool the coach down. According to Jared on video he said his pulls 120 amps to be apples to apples dont we want to know Watts 120 amps x120V = 14,400 Watts which cant be correct. I've heard most 15000 btu units pull 1500 Watts after initial startup.
The 120 amps are from the batteries at 12 volts DC which is close to 12 amps at 120v AC. Our Mach 15000BTU when I checked last week was around the 1450 watt range for the mid 90 for temp. Our Furrion we used to have that was 15,500btu was typically over 1600 watts when we were in the mid 90’s.
Eco mode on the unit from what I have seen is the lower power use it drops to once it hits the temp setting. The mini split Ac units usually have a variable speed compressor and fan so you can save energy once you hit your temp.
Who needs AC at 85F? It's the 95+ high humidity days that are tough...
For those 12 volt systems price you could buy 4 battleborn batteries.
That last one is expensive.
It would be easy to put high wattage panels on your RV Roof to produce more than enough to run the AC and charge batteries from around 10am to 5 or 6pm. Mount the panels a few inches off the roof for air flow and some are using servo motor trays for additional panels to stick out. That is extreme I know, just sayin. We live in our RV full time off grid, no moving it. So what we need is a replacement rooftop unit that has air/heat and is a inverter technology high SEER drop in unit. Why is it taking them so long to do it?
The RV industry is hurting recently due to fuel prices and the economy in general.
Appreicate the information!!!!
The last one looks like an aftermarket vehicle AC unit with a remote condenser and electric compressor.
I believe it’s used a lot in marine applications.
Can ANYONE tell me what is the best electric generator?
A gen without the Noise
I wish someone would talk about the size of solar panels like 100 watts to 200 watts to 300 watts. is a 300 w solar panel three times the size of 100 watt or no. they never seem to give information on that
Q: I take it one would not need the EASY START with the DC mini splits?
The ADCD mini split doesn't heat.
I kept hearing efficiency and you say 1350btu and 1500o btu. I don't see those as efficiency numbers but as cooling capacity. I think a better comparison of efficiency would be Watts per btu or even SEER ratings. You know way more about power than I do though. I just don't see less BTUH as meaning they are more efficient. I'm sure you didn't mean to imply that but it sounded that way to me. that 8k BTU unit is not much cooling capacity. It can be efficient but 8k is not going to cool much at all in the heat of summer. It might do a bedroom if you can close it off from the rest of the rig on a 95 degree Texas day.
That seems like a huge Amp draw for a mini split unless you're talking different numbers than I'm seeing. People running 12k residential mini splits are showing draws of 5-8 Amps.
Am I missing something obvious?
Yes. You’re missing voltage. Residential units usually run on 240V AC.
You da man!
If you already have solar and an inverter, why not just get a smaller sized mini split (made for homes ) that runs on AC instead of an overpriced DC unit made for RVs?
I literally just got a new AC installed 2 weeks ago😫
This all hurts my brain. Im looking to get into the RV life. I can't live without my air conditioning. Nothing seems affordable.
hmmm that does not make it easier to decide... I am still leaning towards the residential units, I have seen Watts that beat everything presented here, by a lot!
Must have BTUs, SEER, AC or DC, Watts...
People have 48V, 24V, 12V systems, Amps makes it harder to visualize.
I'm already maxed out , I can't even afford a spray bottle 🙃.
Get a 5k btu for rv
Thanks Jared. This one is timely for us as well. I’m going a different direction with an install of a standard 18000 BTU (21.3 SEER) System with 2 9k heads as I plan to disconnect and remove the existing Dometic roof mounts in our 5th Wheel hence, I will reuse the existing 20 Amp circuits to power the units. We typically only stay in parks where we have 50 Amp service so we don’t have the boon-docking requirements. Do you have any thoughts or gotchas on this approach?
A friend of mine did pretty much the same as you did. He used a Mitsubishi H2i unit, similar to the one on his house, on his 5th wheel. The biggest things that sold him on the Mitsubishi are: the one on his house has performed flawlessly, the high SEER rating and the fact that Mitsubishi repair technicians and parts can be easily found if need be.
Wow, the Dometic, Nomadic, and CnC are hella costly. I'd rather put the same money into a large battery bank, solar, inverter setup, all else equal.
Glad to see your video, I’ve been looking at mini splits myself , there’s a few videos of people installing residential mini splits and running them all the time. Very interested myself. Worth while investment.
Thank you. Yes I would love to see more mini split options.
@@AllAboutRVs Here's a you tube link on how he runs his mini split 24/7, I was quite impressed he is able to do it off grid.
Let me see, to run this thing on solar power, I must park my RV in bright sunlight, no shade. The RV would get hot as hell sitting out there in the sunlight. I'd get a couple of hours of run time for what, a 600 BTU unit that would barely keep my bathroom cool? Oh, add more batteries! What does that do? I'd get maybe 8 hrs of run time the first day and then two hours every day thereafter! It adds maybe 300 lbs to my RV. A minimal installation would be 1400 BTU AC for a medium sized RV. In direct sunlight on a hot day, you'd have to run the thing at a 100% duty-cycle. Assuming 100% efficiency, that's 470 W or 39A. Assuming that the arrays produce full rated power, that's four large panels. You won't get full efficiency. The sun won't be directly overhead all the time. A bit of dirt or dust will reduce power as will any cloud cover. Maybe you'd have to double the array to eight panels. You'd need a huge array just to run an AC that's too small.
Let us know after you've installed this and have some real-world data to back up performance.
👌👍
Your effort is appreciated, but pretty useless.
Stop talking Ah and talk Wh. Also you are comparing 6000btu units to 13000btu units and claiming the 6000 is drawing less Ah. That doesnt make the 6000btu unit more efficient. It's mixing apples, oranges, and lemons.