I live in the Desert just outside of Palm Springs. Summer Temps are Brutal. My 996 never overheats in the summers down here, but as it gets a wee bit long in the tooth I am trying to extend its life expectancy. More frequent oil changes putting it on the lift more frequently to spot potential failures, etc, but I just replaced my Thermostat and water pump as well as a few older looking hoses. I'm hoping that by getting the coolant circulating at a cooler temp initially, it will prevent the engine from ever getting close to "Very Hot" when sitting at a light or in traffic. Readers Digest version, car will still get up to operating temp, but will start to cool itself prior to getting hot :)
If you are going to apply torque seal or indicating stripe witness mark to a bolt or nut the stripe should also continue over one side onto the adjacent hardware that you just bolted together to give visual indication that the bolt has rotated. Just putting a stripe on the bolt head is only doing half the job, what if the bolt has rotated but when you happen to check the stripe happens to be vertical (even though it has backed out 180 deg)? You would presume the bolt is still torqued up. Maybe that is what you are doing already, just doesn’t look like that in the video.
Hello Peter, I think that’s over the top for these threadlocked 10 mm, they are not going anywhere. The mark is just to say they are done. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Have you considered removing the radiators and giving them a good flush through. This might save debris being drawn through into your surgically clean engine? Same idea for the long pipes running front to back?
That's a good idea Lester, there could be 20 black widows in there by now 🥺. What about hooking up the main radiator "IN" pipe and the heater core to flowing water and flushing the system with everything installed?
@@ManinaGarage to be honest, for the amount of effort you’ve gone to, the morning’s work to strip them out, clean and inspect them could save you a lot of heartache…🙂
@@laapulsford Phew 😅 dude! You got me googling my thumbs off this afternoon 😁. Ok, so yes, I should spend my half penny on tar and take the bloody radiators out and stop being a lazy cheapskate. Understood 🤓
If you feel you need additional cooling capacity they may still offer the third (center) radiator kit for your application (911/Boxster). I have this radiator installed on my 2nd gen Cayman S, and it was made for the PDK (automatic) versions of Cayman/Boxster models. I'm in Florida with hot summers so that made my decision to go this way 😎.
Hello Warren, having never driven this car I don’t know it’s behavior yet, hopefully it just runs “normal”. The third Radiator came up during the oil system episodes, TuneRS Motorsport (in florida! 🌞) recommend them on their race cars. Florida is another level of hot above California, hopefully the stockish system should work ok. The word I got from the different engine builders was that the low temp thermostat was a no brainer on these engines as they have a reputation for running hot, not cold. Subscriber Lester says I should remove and flush out the radiators, he has pretty much guilted me into it 😊. Thank you for watching AND helping 🙏
There are many myths on low temp thermostats. They will not keep a car running cooler, unless you are simply referencing the portion of the warmup where the engine is trying to get to proper operating temperature. Then yes, it will take longer to warm up, which is a con. Once warm, the thermostat will be full open the whole time, regardless of oem or low temp, and the coolant system in place is what sets the max temp. Not the thermostat, which only sets the low temperature. They cannot be "more open" than a regular one, simply slow down the warm up process. The point of a thermostat is to allow a car to warm up, not to keep it cooler after.
Hey Finn, I put in a new 160 t-stat and water pump yesterday and the difference in the temps the car runs at is astounding. As expected she is running 20 degrees cooler which I like! I have been running the Molygen 5w-50 for a year or so now and am wondering if, because of the cooler t-stat, I might want to go back to a 40 wt. What do you think? Have you heard of any reason to do this? My oil temps are cooler now too - about 190 vs. the 210 that it was before. I'd like to stick with the 50wt. oil unless you feel that would be a mistake.
Hello Tom, that is REALLY great to have some real life feedback on the LTT Thank you 🏆. Oddly enough I have the answer to your question direct from the oracle himself, Barry Hart of Hartech. He said (paraphrasing heavy) they went up to the thicker oil to help the oil remain thicker at higher temperatures and because is will leave a larger residual on the piston skirts etc to aid with cold start lubrication. The other half to you answer is that they install LTT on most of their rebuilds. So I would say stick with the thick stuff unless you live in Alaska or Iceland and drive in the winter. Also, the brand they use is Millers oils (sold in Europe) My understanding is that motul or liquimoly are similar quality and available in the USA. Thank you for being a part of this Tom 🤘😎
Hello Tom, Stacy Sherman from the Durametric episode is very interested in your LTT experience, would you mind emailing me? He would like to ask you questions?? He just had his 1999 completely rebuilt by a local shop, they installed a stock thermostat. stuckinagarage@gmail.com 🙌
Good, educational video Finn! Did you buy a new coolant temperature sensor? It's best practice to replace the pump and sensor at the same time. Every time you say "Porsche Dealer" you should play a "cha-ching" sound bite cuz those parts can't be cheap!
Hello Yogi! Thank you for the heads up 🙌. I don’t doubt your advice “but” my methodology with sensors has been, if it passes a continuity test and is easy to replace with the engine installed, I’m reusing the old one. Acting upon the collective advice I have received would result in replacing “EVERY” item in this engine 😂🤣. I have to draw the line somewhere, that’s the way I’m handling sensors. It would easily get over $1000 in sensors alone if you wanted to get a clean slate. If the engine fundamentally engines! I may splurge on some icing for the cake. Thank you for watching, looking forward to seeing Pepper in showroom condition. (You know your wife is going make it hers, Right??) 🤘😎
Another great vid!! It would be a great time to use waterless coolant as you have completely removed the water from the system. It’s a lot better than normal water and antifreeze ( if you use that in California?? Probably you should for anti corrosion purposes). Down sides it gets very expensive with any leaks but you look good to go.
Thats an interesting idea, I watched some videos on the Evans brand waterless coolant. There does seem to be some downsides other than price, Apparently it can lead to a higher cylinder head temperature?? I'm not sure of the mechanism involved in that statement yet, I'm trying to determine the best course of action. Do use use waterless coolant? Do you think there are any downsides other than price? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I think there are pros and cons to everything, I’m not sure about the cylinder head temps but I think from what I’ve read it should give lower cylinder wall temps as there is no boiling against the hottest parts of the bores liners. I looked into it for a GP Suzuki once but figured that it wasn’t worth it due to the chance that we would lose expensive coolant very quickly in one of those but we had an issue with a system pressuring and causing internal crankcase leaks. You don’t get pressure in the waterless system so less chance of that, the crankcase that we were trying to nurse were £20k magnesium and unobtainium!
Howdy Phill 996 🤠, Sorry for the delay, I got a bit behind on comments. As you may know by know, cylinder heads were next 🤓. This week should be all the sensors being put back on with some "help" 🤞🏻 😃. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Howdy 🤠 That is great suggestion, I just looked up a 996 GT3 water pump, it seems visually similar to the Carrera unit. Personally I have no experience to have an opinion, perhaps someone reading these comments can educate us both 🤓. Thank you for watching 🙌😎
@@ManinaGarage thanks a lot for your reply! It should be a direct fit without modifying anything. Here in Europe there’s quite a discussion about it. Many times specialist recommend to use the GT3/GT2/Turbo water pump since it increases the flow compared to normal 996 water pumps. Other specialists say the water flow is too much for the normal 996 and therefore the water doesn’t get ‘enough time’ to absorb the heat. Looking forward to some insights from your subscribers. My 996 is now undergoing a full engine rebuild and I asked for the GT3 water pump + low temp thermostat. Will let you know my findings.
I live in the Desert just outside of Palm Springs. Summer Temps are Brutal. My 996 never overheats in the summers down here, but as it gets a wee bit long in the tooth I am trying to extend its life expectancy. More frequent oil changes putting it on the lift more frequently to spot potential failures, etc, but I just replaced my Thermostat and water pump as well as a few older looking hoses. I'm hoping that by getting the coolant circulating at a cooler temp initially, it will prevent the engine from ever getting close to "Very Hot" when sitting at a light or in traffic.
Readers Digest version, car will still get up to operating temp, but will start to cool itself prior to getting hot :)
Hello Mike, it sounds like you might be a good candidate for a Low Temp Thermostat 🙌. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
If you are going to apply torque seal or indicating stripe witness mark to a bolt or nut the stripe should also continue over one side onto the adjacent hardware that you just bolted together to give visual indication that the bolt has rotated. Just putting a stripe on the bolt head is only doing half the job, what if the bolt has rotated but when you happen to check the stripe happens to be vertical (even though it has backed out 180 deg)? You would presume the bolt is still torqued up. Maybe that is what you are doing already, just doesn’t look like that in the video.
Hello Peter, I think that’s over the top for these threadlocked 10 mm, they are not going anywhere. The mark is just to say they are done. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Your videos are always getting better all the time. So professional, thank you for the hard work that you do.
Your comments are very much appreciated Richard 🙌 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Nice job
Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Thank you for another amazingly informative video.
Your most welcome, I really appreciate you watching AND taking the time to comment!! 🤘😎
Have you considered removing the radiators and giving them a good flush through. This might save debris being drawn through into your surgically clean engine? Same idea for the long pipes running front to back?
That's a good idea Lester, there could be 20 black widows in there by now 🥺. What about hooking up the main radiator "IN" pipe and the heater core to flowing water and flushing the system with everything installed?
@@ManinaGarage to be honest, for the amount of effort you’ve gone to, the morning’s work to strip them out, clean and inspect them could save you a lot of heartache…🙂
@@karlallington3943 That's Fair, I may as well have them pressure tested, etc if I have them in hand. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I would reverse flush each separate element. Don't spoil the ship for a ha'poth of tar.
@@laapulsford Phew 😅 dude! You got me googling my thumbs off this afternoon 😁. Ok, so yes, I should spend my half penny on tar and take the bloody radiators out and stop being a lazy cheapskate. Understood 🤓
Thanks for the latest update 👍🏻
Thank you for watching 🤘😎
If you feel you need additional cooling capacity they may still offer the third (center) radiator kit for your application (911/Boxster). I have this radiator installed on my 2nd gen Cayman S, and it was made for the PDK (automatic) versions of Cayman/Boxster models. I'm in Florida with hot summers so that made my decision to go this way 😎.
Hello Warren, having never driven this car I don’t know it’s behavior yet, hopefully it just runs “normal”. The third Radiator came up during the oil system episodes, TuneRS Motorsport (in florida! 🌞) recommend them on their race cars. Florida is another level of hot above California, hopefully the stockish system should work ok. The word I got from the different engine builders was that the low temp thermostat was a no brainer on these engines as they have a reputation for running hot, not cold. Subscriber Lester says I should remove and flush out the radiators, he has pretty much guilted me into it 😊. Thank you for watching AND helping 🙏
There are many myths on low temp thermostats.
They will not keep a car running cooler, unless you are simply referencing the portion of the warmup where the engine is trying to get to proper operating temperature. Then yes, it will take longer to warm up, which is a con.
Once warm, the thermostat will be full open the whole time, regardless of oem or low temp, and the coolant system in place is what sets the max temp. Not the thermostat, which only sets the low temperature. They cannot be "more open" than a regular one, simply slow down the warm up process. The point of a thermostat is to allow a car to warm up, not to keep it cooler after.
Hey Finn, I put in a new 160 t-stat and water pump yesterday and the difference in the temps the car runs at is astounding. As expected she is running 20 degrees cooler which I like! I have been running the Molygen 5w-50 for a year or so now and am wondering if, because of the cooler t-stat, I might want to go back to a 40 wt. What do you think? Have you heard of any reason to do this? My oil temps are cooler now too - about 190 vs. the 210 that it was before. I'd like to stick with the 50wt. oil unless you feel that would be a mistake.
Hello Tom, that is REALLY great to have some real life feedback on the LTT Thank you 🏆. Oddly enough I have the answer to your question direct from the oracle himself, Barry Hart of Hartech. He said (paraphrasing heavy) they went up to the thicker oil to help the oil remain thicker at higher temperatures and because is will leave a larger residual on the piston skirts etc to aid with cold start lubrication. The other half to you answer is that they install LTT on most of their rebuilds. So I would say stick with the thick stuff unless you live in Alaska or Iceland and drive in the winter. Also, the brand they use is Millers oils (sold in Europe) My understanding is that motul or liquimoly are similar quality and available in the USA. Thank you for being a part of this Tom 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage Thank you, sir! Good to hear as I am very happy with the LTT / 50 wt. combo. The car is nice and quiet and smooth running.
Hello Tom, Stacy Sherman from the Durametric episode is very interested in your LTT experience, would you mind emailing me? He would like to ask you questions?? He just had his 1999 completely rebuilt by a local shop, they installed a stock thermostat.
stuckinagarage@gmail.com 🙌
Good, educational video Finn! Did you buy a new coolant temperature sensor? It's best practice to replace the pump and sensor at the same time. Every time you say "Porsche Dealer" you should play a "cha-ching" sound bite cuz those parts can't be cheap!
Hello Yogi! Thank you for the heads up 🙌. I don’t doubt your advice “but” my methodology with sensors has been, if it passes a continuity test and is easy to replace with the engine installed, I’m reusing the old one. Acting upon the collective advice I have received would result in replacing “EVERY” item in this engine 😂🤣. I have to draw the line somewhere, that’s the way I’m handling sensors. It would easily get over $1000 in sensors alone if you wanted to get a clean slate. If the engine fundamentally engines! I may splurge on some icing for the cake. Thank you for watching, looking forward to seeing Pepper in showroom condition. (You know your wife is going make it hers, Right??) 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I should be worried about that after she drove it for the first time. She was pretty thrilled.
Another great vid!! It would be a great time to use waterless coolant as you have completely removed the water from the system. It’s a lot better than normal water and antifreeze ( if you use that in California?? Probably you should for anti corrosion purposes). Down sides it gets very expensive with any leaks but you look good to go.
Thats an interesting idea, I watched some videos on the Evans brand waterless coolant. There does seem to be some downsides other than price, Apparently it can lead to a higher cylinder head temperature?? I'm not sure of the mechanism involved in that statement yet, I'm trying to determine the best course of action. Do use use waterless coolant? Do you think there are any downsides other than price? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I think there are pros and cons to everything, I’m not sure about the cylinder head temps but I think from what I’ve read it should give lower cylinder wall temps as there is no boiling against the hottest parts of the bores liners. I looked into it for a GP Suzuki once but figured that it wasn’t worth it due to the chance that we would lose expensive coolant very quickly in one of those but we had an issue with a system pressuring and causing internal crankcase leaks. You don’t get pressure in the waterless system so less chance of that, the crankcase that we were trying to nurse were £20k magnesium and unobtainium!
CoOol 😎 🙌💪👌🙏
Good afternoon Mikhael 🙌
Great explanation of the low temperature thermostat!
So what is next?🤔
Howdy Phill 996 🤠, Sorry for the delay, I got a bit behind on comments. As you may know by know, cylinder heads were next 🤓. This week should be all the sensors being put back on with some "help" 🤞🏻 😃. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I’m going to check out the latest episode now! Don’t know how I missed it!
Thanks 🙌
How about the GT3 waterpump for the normal 996? I heard this is a good upgrade as well. Any thoughts on that?
Howdy 🤠 That is great suggestion, I just looked up a 996 GT3 water pump, it seems visually similar to the Carrera unit. Personally I have no experience to have an opinion, perhaps someone reading these comments can educate us both 🤓. Thank you for watching 🙌😎
@@ManinaGarage thanks a lot for your reply! It should be a direct fit without modifying anything. Here in Europe there’s quite a discussion about it. Many times specialist recommend to use the GT3/GT2/Turbo water pump since it increases the flow compared to normal 996 water pumps. Other specialists say the water flow is too much for the normal 996 and therefore the water doesn’t get ‘enough time’ to absorb the heat. Looking forward to some insights from your subscribers.
My 996 is now undergoing a full engine rebuild and I asked for the GT3 water pump + low temp thermostat. Will let you know my findings.
@@Jean-Paul_1984 Best of luck with your rebuild 🍀 what country are you in?
@@Jean-Paul_1984 Thank you for being a part of this. I wish you the very best of luck with your rebuild, keep me posted 🙌