now this is how you make a video!!....gotta be the most thorough and informative one I've watched on this subject...all the potential "gotchas" are covered....excellent job....thanks for sharing the knowledge!
I'm assembling my first-ever panel now with combo connectors along with some XLR-M, and I'm wondering if it's common for people who do this often to also be body builders. But no, I'm probably just out of shape.
This video was great I learned a bit more then I already knew, and I see I am not the only one that cares this much about the exact type and material of fasteners to use, I prefer 6/32 button head socket cap screws as they fit the holes in the Neutrik NC3MD-L-1 XLR Connectors I use exact, and I feel have a higher end more professional look then Philips mostly cosmetic but I also never liked working with Philips. I get these in both SS and Blk Ox depending on the project and think the final build looks fantastic as the button head type gives a nice finished look even though its not countersunk. plus this type of screw can be used directly on the jack face or on a panel. I don't worry about the other size as I don't like or use Switchcraft ever.
It's just completely unnecessary to use nuts and RED locktite... it'll NEVER come off, it's the same to use rivets in that case, easier and faster and cheaper. I mean if you use nuts, use nylocks, but better yet, DON'T use nuts and make things easier with neutriks MFD mounting braket for D-type connectors... no need to use nuts, just snap the thing in and then screw it in place with M3 machine screw :)
Excellent video! I will very much appreciate all of the information as I'm designing my first rack panel. One question I have right from the front: When it comes to the question of front vs. rear mounting the connectors, how does the use of products like Neutrik DSS-1 / DSS-* come into play? Can you even front mount the connector in combination with this colored nameplate?
Honestly, I have no idea on this one. I've never installed one, or even held one in my hand. Also, it has to depend a bit on which part series you're using.
I need to take a TR cable from a guitar and split to 4 TR outputs without signal loss, what do you recommend? Do they make rotary switches so I can select between which of the outputs to use?
I'm sure a rotary switch could be cleverly employed this way. Although, if you need to use more than one channel at a time, that could get complicated quickly.
Holy shit this is awesome. I've been searching everything all night looking for this exact info. Making a custom panel out of an aluminum case using these D-series panel mount connector and you'd think it's just all uniform standardized measurements. But I quickly realized that's not the case at all and you really need this info in order to not screw up your holes. Thank you so much!
now this is how you make a video!!....gotta be the most thorough and informative one I've watched on this subject...all the potential "gotchas" are covered....excellent job....thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Thanks for watching!
Incredibly detailed and useful information!
I'm assembling my first-ever panel now with combo connectors along with some XLR-M, and I'm wondering if it's common for people who do this often to also be body builders. But no, I'm probably just out of shape.
Dude! Soooo thorough! I never realized how many important considerations there are here. Awesome work.
Thanks!
I was curious as to what screws to use for these panels... boy oh boy this video sure delivered.
Glad I could help!
AMAZING!
This video was great I learned a bit more then I already knew, and I see I am not the only one that cares this much about the exact type and material of fasteners to use, I prefer 6/32 button head socket cap screws as they fit the holes in the Neutrik NC3MD-L-1 XLR Connectors I use exact, and I feel have a higher end more professional look then Philips mostly cosmetic but I also never liked working with Philips. I get these in both SS and Blk Ox depending on the project and think the final build looks fantastic as the button head type gives a nice finished look even though its not countersunk. plus this type of screw can be used directly on the jack face or on a panel. I don't worry about the other size as I don't like or use Switchcraft ever.
Sounds clean!
nice video. you can also buy plastic covers for the holes that you don't end up using.
It’s been a while but I’ve always used a 15/16” hole and 4-40 screws
Excellent video! This helped me out a lot! Thanks!
Glad it helped! Visit Alphatone.com if you're in need of cabling or DIY cable parts for your build out.
@@AlphatoneAudio I will be checking Alphatone out! Thanks!
This was super useful - thanks Jason!
Glad I could help!
It's just completely unnecessary to use nuts and RED locktite... it'll NEVER come off, it's the same to use rivets in that case, easier and faster and cheaper.
I mean if you use nuts, use nylocks, but better yet, DON'T use nuts and make things easier with neutriks MFD mounting braket for D-type connectors... no need to use nuts, just snap the thing in and then screw it in place with M3 machine screw :)
Indeed. The MFD fixing plates are well worth the cost.
Excellent video! I will very much appreciate all of the information as I'm designing my first rack panel. One question I have right from the front: When it comes to the question of front vs. rear mounting the connectors, how does the use of products like Neutrik DSS-1 / DSS-* come into play? Can you even front mount the connector in combination with this colored nameplate?
Honestly, I have no idea on this one. I've never installed one, or even held one in my hand. Also, it has to depend a bit on which part series you're using.
Try lock nuts or cheap nail polish for fixing the screws.
Haha, I haven't heard the nail polish trick for a long time.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
I need to take a TR cable from a guitar and split to 4 TR outputs without signal loss, what do you recommend? Do they make rotary switches so I can select between which of the outputs to use?
I'm sure a rotary switch could be cleverly employed this way. Although, if you need to use more than one channel at a time, that could get complicated quickly.
Holy shit this is awesome. I've been searching everything all night looking for this exact info. Making a custom panel out of an aluminum case using these D-series panel mount connector and you'd think it's just all uniform standardized measurements. But I quickly realized that's not the case at all and you really need this info in order to not screw up your holes. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful for you!
This is a fantastic video. Are you aware of anyone who offers 1/2 size 1U panels for 7 - 8 patches?
Thanks! I would give redco.com a call for the half-size panel. They do a lot of custom work.
Hi you mentioned how I could could get a diy store to make one up for me.. could you pint me in the direction 🙏
if zinc is not corrosion-resistant enough then you have bigger problems than what sort of screws you're using
Agreed!