Hi buddy do you know where I can get the 16mm tool you use for doing the 90 degree torque on the cams as well as the other tools you use I have the jigs and top dead centre tools but can’t get hold of your special tools including the one you made up for manually adjusting the timing chain tension be happy to pay you for your time and effort in helping a fellow biker out . The trouble is I’m in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 across the pond😢kind regards Dave😊
Fabulous videos, thank you. Before removing the cams it's an idea to mark the location where cam teeth and drive teeth intersect with a marker pen. This makes refitting the cams easy and quick.
I over exaggerated the teeth engagement in the video, just to show what can happen. Since there is only one position that they can go back together it really is not an issue and no marking is needed. Any technique that help you is good though.
i know im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a way to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow forgot the login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Randy Fisher Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Just to clear up a couple of things…the shims are actually 8.90mm, so I don't know if there are 8.8's for sale. Next, if you expand the Description section above, with "SHOW MORE", you will see links to lots of forms and files that can be helpful in this 12k service…the first one is "Tools for this service". Near the bottom of that spreadsheet is the link directly to the complete shim kit I purchased to do this 12k service. This kit has 3 each of 23 sizes, but of the nearly 50 valve services I've done on this WetHead series bike, the only sizes in use are from about 2.15mm thru 2.30mm. That covers about 6 of the supplied 23 sizes supplied, making this kit somewhat of a waste. Also this kit supplies shims that are sized with 0.04mm spacing between size, making it "possible" to use a shim that will put you back into the tolerance range specified, but maybe not get you right in the middle of the range if that's what you want. The alternative is to only buy the shims you have determined need to be replaced…but they can be from $8-$10 each from BMW or online. Only BMW offers shims that are 0.02mm spacing for more refined adjustment within the tolerance range. I have done both since I do so many of these 12k services…I bought the full kit of 23 sizes, then augment the most commonly consumed sizes with 5 shim refill packs as well as I've bought the 5 sizes that fill in around the sizes most used from BMW such as these sizes- 2.14-2.18-2.22-2.26-2.30. Now I have shims spaced every 0.02mm apart from 2.14mm thru 2.32mm for the most precise adjustment possible. Sorry I beat that DEAD HORSE so badly! It's just not that simple without a little background from experience.
The latest update (202002) to the BMW Service Manual for the R1200RS says 60 nm for "Exhaust camshaft (with encoder for camshaft sensor), M10 x 1.25 . 35 - 10.9", and 65 nm for "other camshafts". It says the same for both left and right cylinders. Before the update it said 65 nm for both intake and exhaust. Do you know what "encoder for camshaft sensor" is? Is it something that was added after the 2016 model (which I have) or is something all the R1200 wetheads have? Thanks for all the great videos!
Hi Michael, the difference is that the new/different torque is only for the "ShiftCam" engines. It's still the way I listed it in the video and on the List of Torques for the first generation "WetHead".
@@drm4rtink The risk is possibly getting the cams out of time and the bike won’t run at all. Cam Timing ABSOLUTELY REQUIRES all 3 Special Tools to do this job…NO short cuts.
In doing my gap/shim calculations, I should be using a 1.7 and a 1.52 to achieve my .34 exhaust tolerance's. I can't find a kit below 1.72 any one know of a source for thinner shims? Thanks
I’d check and double check the readings…I have not used a single shim thinner than 2.00mm in over 100 valve checks. I’m not saying that it’s absolutely impossible, but that it is outside my experience to see measurements like the ones you have.
No. In this video at 10:44 I describe the procedure using NO special tools at all…just feeler gauges and a straight edge to establish that the cam lobes are on the base circle riding on the follower that pushes the valves into the head.
@@gordonhenderson1708 Using the spring loaded tool is to approximate the running condition of the oil pressure pushing up on the cam chain follower in order to check/adjust the cam TIMING only. It’s not used/needed for doing valve clearance checks or anything else.
Thanks for the comment, but this little driver unit has the clutch set at 5Nm...same as the setting for all the fasteners on the fairings, so only half of what the torque setting is for the cam bearing cap screws.
Boxflyer understood. Guess there’s a first time for everything. Never seen it. Coming from aviation, we are not allowed to do such a thing so more so I was thinking “that makes life easier”.
![BABYMONSTER - 'DRIP' M/V REACTION [WAS NOT EXPECTING THIS!!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t0Lpgr1jo3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
la meilleure vidéo sur le sujet
Pierre Yernaux Merci beaucoup
Hi buddy do you know where I can get the 16mm tool you use for doing the 90 degree torque on the cams as well as the other tools you use I have the jigs and top dead centre tools but can’t get hold of your special tools including the one you made up for manually adjusting the timing chain tension be happy to pay you for your time and effort in helping a fellow biker out . The trouble is I’m in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 across the pond😢kind regards Dave😊
Hi Dave..."buddy"...the Torque Adapter is also 5/8 inch. Available on AmazonUK as Stanley Proto J5120. Sorry, I don't sell or ship outside the States.
Fabulous videos, thank you.
Before removing the cams it's an idea to mark the location where cam teeth and drive teeth intersect with a marker pen. This makes refitting the cams easy and quick.
I over exaggerated the teeth engagement in the video, just to show what can happen. Since there is only one position that they can go back together it really is not an issue and no marking is needed. Any technique that help you is good though.
@@Boxflyer11 Just me being over cautious about undertaking something like this.
i know im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Randy Fisher Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Randy Fisher It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
First class instructional video. If you ever do a shift cam that would be interesting.
I now have the Cam Alignment Blocks in hand and will try to update the series this summer.
@@Boxflyer11 many thanks
Greatly described top video, thanks you. Do you have a tip where to get the 8,8 mm shim disc Kit?
Just to clear up a couple of things…the shims are actually 8.90mm, so I don't know if there are 8.8's for sale.
Next, if you expand the Description section above, with "SHOW MORE", you will see links to lots of forms and files that can be helpful in this 12k service…the first one is "Tools for this service".
Near the bottom of that spreadsheet is the link directly to the complete shim kit I purchased to do this 12k service. This kit has 3 each of 23 sizes, but of the nearly 50 valve services I've done on this WetHead series bike, the only sizes in use are from about 2.15mm thru 2.30mm. That covers about 6 of the supplied 23 sizes supplied, making this kit somewhat of a waste. Also this kit supplies shims that are sized with 0.04mm spacing between size, making it "possible" to use a shim that will put you back into the tolerance range specified, but maybe not get you right in the middle of the range if that's what you want.
The alternative is to only buy the shims you have determined need to be replaced…but they can be from $8-$10 each from BMW or online.
Only BMW offers shims that are 0.02mm spacing for more refined adjustment within the tolerance range.
I have done both since I do so many of these 12k services…I bought the full kit of 23 sizes, then augment the most commonly consumed sizes with 5 shim refill packs as well as I've bought the 5 sizes that fill in around the sizes most used from BMW such as these sizes- 2.14-2.18-2.22-2.26-2.30. Now I have shims spaced every 0.02mm apart from 2.14mm thru 2.32mm for the most precise adjustment possible.
Sorry I beat that DEAD HORSE so badly! It's just not that simple without a little background from experience.
Fantastic job guys!
Glad you enjoyed this series. Hope it helped you out.
The latest update (202002) to the BMW Service Manual for the R1200RS says 60 nm for "Exhaust camshaft (with encoder for camshaft sensor), M10 x 1.25 . 35 - 10.9", and 65 nm for "other camshafts". It says the same for both left and right cylinders. Before the update it said 65 nm for both intake and exhaust. Do you know what "encoder for camshaft sensor" is? Is it something that was added after the 2016 model (which I have) or is something all the R1200 wetheads have?
Thanks for all the great videos!
Hi Michael, the difference is that the new/different torque is only for the "ShiftCam" engines. It's still the way I listed it in the video and on the List of Torques for the first generation "WetHead".
What do you think about a rebuilding grease on the bearing surfaces of the cam shaft's?
This does not make sense to me...sorry.
Whats the risk not using the adjustment cam tensioner? If I leave the current one as is, what issues may it cause?
@@drm4rtink The risk is possibly getting the cams out of time and the bike won’t run at all.
Cam Timing ABSOLUTELY REQUIRES all 3 Special Tools to do this job…NO short cuts.
In doing my gap/shim calculations, I should be using a 1.7 and a 1.52 to achieve my .34 exhaust tolerance's. I can't find a kit below 1.72 any one know of a source for thinner shims? Thanks
I’d check and double check the readings…I have not used a single shim thinner than 2.00mm in over 100 valve checks. I’m not saying that it’s absolutely impossible, but that it is outside my experience to see measurements like the ones you have.
Without the special tools, is it still imporatant to preload the cam chain before checking clearances?
No. In this video at 10:44 I describe the procedure using NO special tools at all…just feeler gauges and a straight edge to establish that the cam lobes are on the base circle riding on the follower that pushes the valves into the head.
@@Boxflyer11 What, then, is the purpose of preloading the cam chain? Just wondering. Thanks in advance. Great instructional videos!
@@gordonhenderson1708 Using the spring loaded tool is to approximate the running condition of the oil pressure pushing up on the cam chain follower in order to check/adjust the cam TIMING only. It’s not used/needed for doing valve clearance checks or anything else.
@@Boxflyer11 Got it. Thanks Brad!
Great video. However, I cringe while you use power tools on your internal engine parts.
Thanks for the comment, but this little driver unit has the clutch set at 5Nm...same as the setting for all the fasteners on the fairings, so only half of what the torque setting is for the cam bearing cap screws.
Boxflyer understood. Guess there’s a first time for everything. Never seen it. Coming from aviation, we are not allowed to do such a thing so more so I was thinking “that makes life easier”.
I know, I got my A&P back in 1976...back when a speed handle was a luxury!