I really appreciate the care and detail in this video series. Very helpful for those of us who are hundreds of miles from a piece of the shrinking BMW dealer network.
Glad you like it and that maybe helps you out. I hope to make a newer/updated version of things I've revised..."slightly"...over the past couple of years.
Your videos have been a life-saver, I’m on an island, the nearest dealership is located 210 miles away across the Pacific Ocean. Found your series after the check engine light came on and pulled a 21FD32 code, camshaft senor. I really appreciate all the time and energy that went into making the videos, easy to follow, precise and inspirational, I can do this!
Glad to help. The original intent when making almost all of the content on this channel was to take some of the mystery out of taking care of the WetHead series of bikes. Let me know if you have any questions.
Sorry for the delayed reply. Thanks for the compliment. I soon found out that the easy part was turning the wrench...the video editing was much harder than I ever expected. Chris is a great director and excellent mechanic as well, so he knows exactly where to setup and how to zoom in on the appropriate area of detail during the service. Besides being a mechanic and videographer, he can ride like the wind too...much fun to be on the open road with! Hopefully, we will be doing more this summer.
I just started the 24K service. Until now, I have had the dealer do the servicing. I just did the air filter today, and found some things that concerned me. First, a good number of screws that should be shouldered are not. Second, one of the screws was misapplied - a 14mm screw was used where a 12mm was called for (where the tank cover screws into the tank!). No harm appears to have been done, and I found the 12mm (used somewhere else) and returned it to its proper place. I guess if you want something done right... Anyway, thanks again for these videos.
As far as coolant change, I'm not planning on doing mine for these reasons. 1) It's not specifically called for by the BMW Motorrad Maintenance Schedule for any Time/Distance. 2) Unless the cooling system is contaminated or has been opened to perform some other service, the coolant level check is all that's called for. I'm checking my coolant with PH strips to check for loss of additives that make the mixture more acidic, as well as a hydrometer to determine both freezing and boiling points. If you have more frequent cycling of the fan when moving slow or stopped and the quantity and quality of the coolant is normal, airflow thru the radiator is most likely the problem. My belief is that the radiator fins have bug debris or a buildup of sand blocking airflow reducing overall heat transfer. Bug debris can be softened with a mix of water and a surfactant (like dish soap) and after softened will usually come off with a soft bristle brush and a flush from the back of the fins. Sand that is lodged in between the fins will not easily come out even with high pressure air from the back side of the fins, sometimes I've found that I have to pick out the sand individually, fin by fin, to restore complete airflow thru the radiator. I just removed a tablespoon of sand from each side of my radiators when doing a video about installing screens in front of the radiators…the sand was physically wedged in the fins and would not be dislodged without using a tiny pick. I have a different approach to a perceived issue of cooling system inefficiency other than a flush and fill…because changing the coolant with a partially obstructed radiator will probably still leave you with poor performance overall.
@@Boxflyer11 Many thanks for the reply...I recall seeing that there was a two year frequency for the change but cant recall where at the moment...I keep a regular check on the temperature riding with the Navigator V and on board read out and its all been normal up to now...I do a simple check on the radiators and clean out debris with a modified old tooth brush to get dead insects out of the fins. I'm interested in the PH check, the additives used and at what readings, same with the hydrometer.. Maybe these things as a simple add to one of your next postings would be good.. Many thanks again for the great content..
Thank you Boxflyer for these videos. IMHO, they are great. Your videos gave me the confidence to inspect my valve clearance on my GSW. Wondering if you have any plans to make a video on replacing the coolant on the wethead? I understand that it is a vacuum fill, and while I understand the basics, I don't know a step-by-step procedure. I think that a "how to" video would be well received. All the best.
Hi Michael, thanks! I'm glad you gained enough from this series to accomplish some of the routine service yourself…that was the original intent. Thanks for the input about what you would like to see for future YT content, so far on the list I have plans to cover, 1)fork seal replacement, 2)battery replacement, 3)GS-911 in depth, 4)FD pivot bearing service, 5)wiring additional fuse box, 6)Skene P3 tail lights, 7)high draw horn with relay…on and on… I'd be glad to entertain additional ideas besides the coolant flush (which is a good one).
Hi Tony, Thanks! If you look up above here, there is the description of the video...click on the "SHOW MORE", and there are links to lots of info about what we did here. The PDF for the pages I used to cut up and glue onto some foam core board is called "Guides to make BoxFlyer Board" Hope this helps...enjoy, Brad
Check out this thread for single-page view of the layout. I haven't printed it yet, so I don't know if it's as practical as Boxflyer's large layout. Might be useful more as a quick reference. www.bmwlt.com/forums/rt-series/184651-all-great-ideas.html
Yes, they measure very close to the marked sizes for each shim. The only drawback of the "kit" is that there are only about 18% of the shim sizes (1.72-2.60mm) that fall within the range of use for our needs. Sizes 2.16mm-2.28mm. The other drawback of this "kit" is that the shim sizes are 0.04mm separated, and I wish they were tighter in the range to only 0.01mm-0.02mm so you could get your desired "target" clearance when adjusting the valves. I've begun using the shims larger than anything we need by polishing them down to fit into the range I use in 0.02mm increments.
This series was not meant to take away from anything else presented on TH-cam, but it's been a method for me to learn more about what I can do to enjoy this bike. So, I kept working at this until I solved for: "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
Kudos and thank you for the video. Your video has benefited me (learning to be a shade-tree mechanic) tremendously and no doubt the motorrad community.
I look at it as an opportunity to get to know your bike better. There seem to be systems on any kind of machine where integrating engineering and other design elements come into conflict…in this case, the accessibility of the air filter is a prime example. I don’t like it either, but knowing the steps to get this done helps I hope.
@@Boxflyer11 You are absolutely correct, and I so appreciate your video about how to get to the air filter!! I would likely never have attempted it without your help. I surely wasn't ridiculing you - just venting about how BMW buried it six feet under ....
I really appreciate the care and detail in this video series. Very helpful for those of us who are hundreds of miles from a piece of the shrinking BMW dealer network.
Glad you like it and that maybe helps you out. I hope to make a newer/updated version of things I've revised..."slightly"...over the past couple of years.
Your videos have been a life-saver, I’m on an island, the nearest dealership is located 210 miles away across the Pacific Ocean. Found your series after the check engine light came on and pulled a 21FD32 code, camshaft senor. I really appreciate all the time and energy that went into making the videos, easy to follow, precise and inspirational, I can do this!
Glad to help. The original intent when making almost all of the content on this channel was to take some of the mystery out of taking care of the WetHead series of bikes. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you for the high res pictures for the screw guide!!!!!
Glad it helped out.
Thank you, these video's are truly amazing. The worksheets are also fantastic.
Glad you like them!
Fantastic set of service videos - the best I have seen! I am sure these will encourage people try and learn service their bikes.
Sorry for the delayed reply. Thanks for the compliment. I soon found out that the easy part was turning the wrench...the video editing was much harder than I ever expected. Chris is a great director and excellent mechanic as well, so he knows exactly where to setup and how to zoom in on the appropriate area of detail during the service. Besides being a mechanic and videographer, he can ride like the wind too...much fun to be on the open road with! Hopefully, we will be doing more this summer.
I just started the 24K service. Until now, I have had the dealer do the servicing. I just did the air filter today, and found some things that concerned me. First, a good number of screws that should be shouldered are not. Second, one of the screws was misapplied - a 14mm screw was used where a 12mm was called for (where the tank cover screws into the tank!). No harm appears to have been done, and I found the 12mm (used somewhere else) and returned it to its proper place. I guess if you want something done right... Anyway, thanks again for these videos.
It's a nice feeling to know you have done the job yourself and even corrected a few things along the way. Well done!
Excellent work and very clear...much appreciated and looking forward to see if you will complete a coolant change...
As far as coolant change, I'm not planning on doing mine for these reasons.
1) It's not specifically called for by the BMW Motorrad Maintenance Schedule for any Time/Distance.
2) Unless the cooling system is contaminated or has been opened to perform some other service, the coolant level check is all that's called for.
I'm checking my coolant with PH strips to check for loss of additives that make the mixture more acidic, as well as a hydrometer to determine both freezing and boiling points.
If you have more frequent cycling of the fan when moving slow or stopped and the quantity and quality of the coolant is normal, airflow thru the radiator is most likely the problem.
My belief is that the radiator fins have bug debris or a buildup of sand blocking airflow reducing overall heat transfer.
Bug debris can be softened with a mix of water and a surfactant (like dish soap) and after softened will usually come off with a soft bristle brush and a flush from the back of the fins.
Sand that is lodged in between the fins will not easily come out even with high pressure air from the back side of the fins, sometimes I've found that I have to pick out the sand individually, fin by fin, to restore complete airflow thru the radiator. I just removed a tablespoon of sand from each side of my radiators when doing a video about installing screens in front of the radiators…the sand was physically wedged in the fins and would not be dislodged without using a tiny pick.
I have a different approach to a perceived issue of cooling system inefficiency other than a flush and fill…because changing the coolant with a partially obstructed radiator will probably still leave you with poor performance overall.
@@Boxflyer11 Many thanks for the reply...I recall seeing that there was a two year frequency for the change but cant recall where at the moment...I keep a regular check on the temperature riding with the Navigator V and on board read out and its all been normal up to now...I do a simple check on the radiators and clean out debris with a modified old tooth brush to get dead insects out of the fins. I'm interested in the PH check, the additives used and at what readings, same with the hydrometer.. Maybe these things as a simple add to one of your next postings would be good.. Many thanks again for the great content..
Thank you Boxflyer for these videos. IMHO, they are great. Your videos gave me the confidence to inspect my valve clearance on my GSW. Wondering if you have any plans to make a video on replacing the coolant on the wethead? I understand that it is a vacuum fill, and while I understand the basics, I don't know a step-by-step procedure. I think that a "how to" video would be well received. All the best.
Hi Michael, thanks! I'm glad you gained enough from this series to accomplish some of the routine service yourself…that was the original intent.
Thanks for the input about what you would like to see for future YT content, so far on the list I have plans to cover, 1)fork seal replacement, 2)battery replacement, 3)GS-911 in depth, 4)FD pivot bearing service, 5)wiring additional fuse box, 6)Skene P3 tail lights, 7)high draw horn with relay…on and on…
I'd be glad to entertain additional ideas besides the coolant flush (which is a good one).
Instablaster.
Great video!!
Glad you can use these as a reference for your future services.
Great videos, love your tips, could you share where you found the body panel layout for keeping the screws during service
Hi Tony, Thanks! If you look up above here, there is the description of the video...click on the "SHOW MORE", and there are links to lots of info about what we did here. The PDF for the pages I used to cut up and glue onto some foam core board is called "Guides to make BoxFlyer Board"
Hope this helps...enjoy, Brad
Got it, thanks for all your efforts!!
Check out this thread for single-page view of the layout. I haven't printed it yet, so I don't know if it's as practical as Boxflyer's large layout. Might be useful more as a quick reference. www.bmwlt.com/forums/rt-series/184651-all-great-ideas.html
Brad, have you found that the Wiseco VSK4 shim kits are a reliable dimension?
Yes, they measure very close to the marked sizes for each shim. The only drawback of the "kit" is that there are only about 18% of the shim sizes (1.72-2.60mm) that fall within the range of use for our needs. Sizes 2.16mm-2.28mm. The other drawback of this "kit" is that the shim sizes are 0.04mm separated, and I wish they were tighter in the range to only 0.01mm-0.02mm so you could get your desired "target" clearance when adjusting the valves.
I've begun using the shims larger than anything we need by polishing them down to fit into the range I use in 0.02mm increments.
Love this! JVB must hate this channel. Thank you for the excellent work!
This series was not meant to take away from anything else presented on TH-cam, but it's been a method for me to learn more about what I can do to enjoy this bike. So, I kept working at this until I solved for: "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
Kudos and thank you for the video. Your video has benefited me (learning to be a shade-tree mechanic) tremendously and no doubt the motorrad community.
@@Bigheaddonut We're all in this together...learning and enjoying this bike.
OMG - I think BMW engineered the bike to discourage DIY replacement of the air filter and promote dealership service profit!!
I look at it as an opportunity to get to know your bike better. There seem to be systems on any kind of machine where integrating engineering and other design elements come into conflict…in this case, the accessibility of the air filter is a prime example. I don’t like it either, but knowing the steps to get this done helps I hope.
@@Boxflyer11 You are absolutely correct, and I so appreciate your video about how to get to the air filter!! I would likely never have attempted it without your help. I surely wasn't ridiculing you - just venting about how BMW buried it six feet under ....