Some nice additions you got there. Really like seeing the long trains. I know we have to be careful on our models but the prototype has coupler height discrepancies many times.
Dave: I've found two main issues with the long trains. The biggest is coupler height. I try to feather my approaches to incline changes, even only having 1.25% grades. I've got one spot right at the yard switch in front of Cumberland where it's not feathered and just the change from a 1.25% to about 0.25% causes the coupler on one car to rise up relative to the car behind it, accenting any little coupler height difference. Add that to the drag of the train behind and the train pulls apart. My second problem with the long trains is car weight. Non weighted cars will stringline unless I'm really careful about starts and stops. A dead spot on the track that causes the train to jerk is a horror show! For the long trains I've been running I have to make sure they're not starting on the upgrade or on an S curve. The couplers will pull apart no matter how smooth the start. I've spoken before about the Weaver couplers. The knuckle will snap at the slightest jerk. Kadee's hold up pretty well. The Weaver cars just have the couplers mounted on a pad extending from the frame. As they get pulled harder the pad will actually bend down, causing uncoupling. I may end up just gluing the underframe to the cars. As the trains get longer, I learn a little more about the failure modes and fix the problems as they pop up. Some are the track, and some are the cars. 100 cars here we come!
@@mikestrains8633 I can imagine this feat doesn't come without issues. I would imagine that you don't plan to run 70-80 cars regularly but it sure is fun to do it sometimes. If I had that kind of space I know I would. I think you have the right approach of fixing the issues as they come. Have you ever considered changing everything over to Kadee couplers over time? For me, it's been an ongoing project that allows me to create uniformity and work out weight and height issues, etc.
Kadee's Absolutely! I just don't have the time, or couplers on hand, to do it all at once. The only other couplers I have are Weaver and they work fine until the knuckle snaps. When they break they get a Kadee replacement. I guess I've broken about two dozen already. The two E8's on the unboxing will get Kadee's from the start. I totally agree with your comment on uniformity. I was using Atlas locos to set coupler height, then on the long train I was seeing some slight variation even on their locos. So, I broke down and just got a height gauge.
I have a just found great fix for Alta’s blue box locos that don’t behave!! It took me many many days to figure it out!! Send me your email! I will only respond with the truth!! My findings are not even thinkable!!.. but I now know!.. cheers from another 2 rail atlas nut!!..ps yr layout looks great!..
Keep the videos coming, love your layout.
This is really cool I really like all the details to them
the most interesting mail call i've seen in a while! love that picture. magnificent train! :)
You are awesome , that was great ! I just subscribed !
Hey Mike love the videos merry Christmas from another 2 railer in Canada 🇨🇦
Some nice additions you got there. Really like seeing the long trains. I know we have to be careful on our models but the prototype has coupler height discrepancies many times.
Dave: I've found two main issues with the long trains. The biggest is coupler height. I try to feather my approaches to incline changes, even only having 1.25% grades. I've got one spot right at the yard switch in front of Cumberland where it's not feathered and just the change from a 1.25% to about 0.25% causes the coupler on one car to rise up relative to the car behind it, accenting any little coupler height difference. Add that to the drag of the train behind and the train pulls apart.
My second problem with the long trains is car weight. Non weighted cars will stringline unless I'm really careful about starts and stops. A dead spot on the track that causes the train to jerk is a horror show!
For the long trains I've been running I have to make sure they're not starting on the upgrade or on an S curve. The couplers will pull apart no matter how smooth the start. I've spoken before about the Weaver couplers. The knuckle will snap at the slightest jerk. Kadee's hold up pretty well.
The Weaver cars just have the couplers mounted on a pad extending from the frame. As they get pulled harder the pad will actually bend down, causing uncoupling. I may end up just gluing the underframe to the cars.
As the trains get longer, I learn a little more about the failure modes and fix the problems as they pop up. Some are the track, and some are the cars.
100 cars here we come!
@@mikestrains8633 I can imagine this feat doesn't come without issues. I would imagine that you don't plan to run 70-80 cars regularly but it sure is fun to do it sometimes. If I had that kind of space I know I would. I think you have the right approach of fixing the issues as they come. Have you ever considered changing everything over to Kadee couplers over time? For me, it's been an ongoing project that allows me to create uniformity and work out weight and height issues, etc.
Kadee's Absolutely! I just don't have the time, or couplers on hand, to do it all at once. The only other couplers I have are Weaver and they work fine until the knuckle snaps. When they break they get a Kadee replacement. I guess I've broken about two dozen already. The two E8's on the unboxing will get Kadee's from the start. I totally agree with your comment on uniformity. I was using Atlas locos to set coupler height, then on the long train I was seeing some slight variation even on their locos. So, I broke down and just got a height gauge.
I have a just found great fix for Alta’s blue box locos that don’t behave!! It took me many many days to figure it out!! Send me your email! I will only respond with the truth!! My findings are not even thinkable!!.. but I now know!.. cheers from another 2 rail atlas nut!!..ps yr layout looks great!..