+ScrambledO Agreed. I use them most of the time for carving. And depending on the wood I'll have to sharpen them from time to time because of a slight roll or chip. But they're super easy to sharpen and strop. Win win.
Scrambled O ....I felt the same, so I got rid of all my higher end (aka: expensive) knives and now have a mora kansbol, a mora companion, and a swiss army knife. All three were less than $100 and can do the same job that the other knives could do. And they arent nearly as heavy to carry around. Somehow we have been sold on the claim that a good knife has to be a certain steel, certain grind, etc.....just not true. I can see why people like certain knives, but that doesnt make them necessary
You guys have no idea how much I appreciate the quality of video and time you spend with the actual look of your vids and channel. Definitely beats every other outdoors channel in the Tube. Kudos friends. Oh and the Mora just can't be beat...
Its more than coincidence. Those who's opinion I trust most (yourself included) appreciate Mora knives as all a person really needs. I have a small collection of outdoor knives but seem to reach for one of my six Moras (three outdoor and three carving) most often. Thanks for another great video
Great video, as always. Absolutely excellent handiwork on the wooden art, smooth and flowing. Thanks for always providing superior quality film and comtent.
I could not I’d them. As always , thank you for sharing as I am just stepping up from a mora companion to a more robust design. There are many choices and I am thankful for all the useful information.
Great review of your favorites. I really like the Moras and the scandi grind, and agree with Krik, that just because it is inexpensive, it does not change my basic philosophy of taking care of those things that I rely on. As I recall, my Father taught me as he freehand sharpened knives, that a sharp knife is safer as you do not have to exert excessive force to make a cut, thus keeping you from slipping and injuring yourself or another.
Very good video! Thank you for the brief explanation of your reason for choosing each one of these wonderful "tools". Mora's are hard to beat especially if you are on a limited budget.
Well yes and no. Sure, it'll definitely cut you deeper, but a clean cut is much easier to clean and less prone to infection than you'd have with a dull or jagged blade. The scar will be much less noticeable, which is why scalpels are so effing sharp. If I were to sever a tendon on my hand, I'd much rather it be done with a very sharp blade because that would mean there'd be less damaged end of the tendon that a surgeon would have to cut away to reattach it.
Yes, but define "sharp". There's a point where sharpness means the knife won't hold an edge at all, a sharpness where it holds an edge just for a short time, meaning you have to touch up, are sharpen from scratch, more than once or twice during a project, and a sharpness where you can cut anything you need to cut, but that will keep an edge for days or weeks. Traditionally, woodsmen have sharpened working belt knives at a forty-eight degree inclusive angle, or twenty-four degrees per side. This gives a knife all the sharpness it needs, but almost makes the edge last a long time. Today, thanks mostly to marketers and TH-cam, everyone seems to think a knife is dull unless it will shave your arm. That's silliness. It's impressive, but it's silly, unless the main task you want that knife for is shaving. Knives come from companies drastically over-sharpened, and consumers maintain that over-sharpening because they just don't know enough about knives. Chances are they've never even picked up a knife that wasn't over-sharpened. A dull knife is a bad knife, and needs to be sharpened, but a knife that over-sharpened is just as bad as a dull knife, and usually just as dangerous. The truth is you won't even notice the difference in sharpness between a knife such as a Mora or a Buck that has a twenty-two degree inclusive angle, and a working knife that has a forty-eight degree inclusive angle, unless you do try to shave with it. For common knife tasks, they cut the same way, with the same ease, but the one with the forty-eight degree inclusive angle will hold its edge several times as long, and will be a lot stronger, meaning it won't chip or roll, because it has a lot more metal backing it. There is a place for a razor sharp knife, and that place is a SMALL knife intended only for carving green wood, or cutting small things such as a piece of cordage. Every "bushcraft" knife I've seen, including the Mora, is a poor choice for a dedicated carving knife. I've seen some wonderful carving done with them, but no knife that has a single blade can do it all, especially with ease. You can tell a real woodsman by the pocketknife he carries. If he carries none, he has no clue what he's doing. If he carries a pocketknife with only one blade, especially some form of flip knife, he has no clue at all what he's doing. If he carries a pocketknife with two blades, such as a Hunter, you know he's a real woodsman. If he carries a pocketknife that has three blades, which means a Stockman, he's not only a real woodsman, he also knows what carving green wood really means. I've never seen a professional woodcarver who used a "bushcraft" knife, and I've never seen one who used a Mora. I've seen more than a hundred who use a Stockman for all their basic green wood carving. Or dried basswood carving. Most professional woodcarvers prefer basswood because there's no grain to worry about, and even when dried, it cuts as smooth as butter. There's only one real exception to the pocketknife rule, sort of, and that's the Buck 110. It's an exception because even though it's a folder, it's considered a belt knife, not a pocketknife. If you need a large, hefty, sheath quality knife for carrying places where a fixed blade knife would not look right, and might even frighten people, there is no better choice than a Buck 110. But even it has no place in the woods, except maybe as a backup to your backup. Real woodsmen have never used their belts knives for carving. Doing so means their belt knife can't have a grind on it that makes it perfect for a dozen other things a belt knife is called on to do. And a belt knife Is not a very good carving knife, anyway. Compared to the three different kinds and sizes of blades on a Stockman, it's lousy, however good an expert makes it look. And a woodsman needs a belt knife that will do those other things because his life might depend on it. So might the life of a bushcrafter, if he gets into trouble. Even a big game hunter needs the belt kind to have a grind that can withstand hitting large bone. The bushcraft community is large, but seems pretty isolated, especially where knives are concerned. Everyone seems to want a thick blade so they can beat on their knives with clubs, which is always stupid and amateurish, and means that person has no clue what a knife is for, or what tools he should be carrying. They also want a high, thin Scandi grind, which is great for green wood, but lousy for most other things. People complain that a Mora's edge will roll when they strike a bone in a rabbit, and I've seen five hundred dollar knives made from CM154 chip badly when skinning a single deer, both because of that high Scandi grind. Anyway, yes, sharp is good, and dull is bad, but there's a heck of a lot more to it than being shaving sharp, or can't cut butter dull. Good sharpness means knowing the size of your knife, the grind on your knife, and most important, knowing the tasks that knife will be used for.
They are pricey, but I pretty much stopped buying multitools after I got this one. The new Leatherman Signal is cool looking and may tempt me back from MT purchase retirement, but the Swisstool pretty much has all the bush tools on it. More than the Signal, which is marketed as a bush Multi Tool.
I love my BOB knife, I use it more as a backpacker/survival blade than detail carving. Just got a Falkniven S1 because.............toys. Looking forward to trying it out as soon as I get more home remodeling done and I can go play more outside.
I've only got two, the mora companion like yours and the cold steel bushcraft. The Cold steel is a neat design, handle and blade one solid piece of steel. The handle is rolled over to leave a hollow space, to store tinder, fit to a pole as a spear or for an extended handle. love them both.
+James Ritchie For sure, I just like the design. Concept of having the handle of the same steel as the blade and its adaptability for use as a spearhead, fun and has been handy.
Nice BCK collection ! I have both the GNS in scandi grind as well as saber grind I also have the Genesis in scandi grind . I prefer the GNS in scandi . Thanks for showing your collection and thoughts I enjoy your videos and all of your woodsman skills that you share thanks again 👍🏻✌🏻️
WoW Krik, I just pulled the trigger on a New Attitude Knife from Battle Horse, I never seen this video before and if I did, I didn't do mine similar to your all time Fav's. I'm having mine thinned down to 5/32" thick with a curve, I also am having a high scandi vex grind put on it with a White handle with blue liners, It almost blew my sis off when I seen your mist Fav's because of how similar mine will be to yours. Thanx for sharing your knives. I was never into Mora Knives but I do have a old Frost Clipper that's still going strong and a vintage I think military Mora that has a leather sheath with a meral trim and embossed on the leather are three crowns and a large " A". The knife has a hand gaurd and curly birch handle with a meral pommel in very good shape. With everything I heard on the Mora 510 I decided to get one, as I browsed through the different styles I also got the Classic #1. Then I found the Forest Exclusive # 277 and I got that one too, I like you like a slender blade to carve with, it's made out of a laminated steel I think stainless with a carbon core. I'm also getting a few more in that line and the Garber Full Tang Mora. The Mora 2000 and the Mora Hatchet caught my eye, the price was reasonable but to get that price you had to get it in the Orange. Anyhow I got the Olive Green version and I even bought a Bacho Laplander to match my new Trio, even though the Laplander comes in orange too. I did get lucky to get the green set, my Bokor Plus Black Vox Rold does match into that set and my Victorninox Delemont Collection Ranger Grip 78 the sgeath I carry it in is greenish too. Thanx for a great review
I can't name your knives.I do know why a sharp knife is a safe knife. It is because a sharp knife cuts through your work easily and it is easier to control. Love your stuff guys keep it up.
Great video buddy, and yes a sharp knife is a safe knife because it will stay in the work and not as inclined to slip like a dull knife may do. I love your leather work, in fact you know what, I just love your channel overall. You provide lots of info in your presentations when you listen. Thanks for sharing all your videos.
Missed the models on the saks but got the rest. Very good picks some of my favorites as well. bcnw 01 and spyderco bushcraft are some solid picks as well. Anything by WC knives is also great. Thumbs up.
I got the 2 Mora's , the Tops B.O.B and the SA classic I wasn't positive about the other SA thought it might be a Trekker. Love the knife you designed looks comfortable and solid. I like my Mora 120 the best for carving.
I'm way late, but I think I recognize a mora there. Anyway, I enjoy a knife review from someone who really uses them. Every review I see people stabbing and batoning. It is refreshing to see a knife just cutting and carving.
I like your choice in knives. Very nice. I was able to guess all but two of the knives before being removed from their sheaths. My favourites among what was shown are the two LT Wrights. The GNS and Genesis are among my favourite LT Wright blades. I have yet to purchase a Mora and have no reason to offer. My first choice will be the Mora Bushcraft Carbon Black. There will be others added at a later date.
Your favorite knife you show at the end is that 3/32" thick. It looks perfect. Most knives are way to thick in my opinion. They just don't slice like a thinner stock blade does. Thank you
I got them all right except for the classic and your design lol I thought the classic was a BCNW and I had no idea what the one you designed was lol. But a sharp knife is safer because you don't need to push as hard on your knife so the follow through is less dramatic. So the sharper the less pressure you need which in return your follow through is more Controlled. And you and Stoney have been 1 of my top favorite TH-cam channels for awhile now. I've been youtubing for going on 3 years and Black owl Outdoors was one of the first Channels I subbed to. E2E then you. I love Stoney's camera work and your guys editing. And you are perfect in front of the camera. I'm still waiting on the Mora vs Hultafors vs Marttinii video but what you guys do without our help is perfect I wldnt change anything well yeah I would I would change the length of your videos and the amount of testing on a knife... Idc what knife it is... It can be the mora companion or classic just let us watch you carve! Lol
Enjoyed your video, I like the way you talk to the camera just like you would if you had a few friends hanging out. To the question why is a sharp knife a safe knife is simple when the tool is at its sharpest you don't have to force it and you have less chance of hurting yourself. Thank You for your time and effort.
I've got a Mora Companion. Fantastic knife, extremely easily to get it razor sharp and I love to carve with it. Sadly the blade is very soft and the tip has already broken off and some parts of the blade. But I cant complain for the price.
Great knives. I carry the Classic on day hikes and such where I don't want to be weighed down, and for work on a small camp near my place. I also have a Bushcraft Black; it's not as good of a carver as the Classic but it's better for more tasks than the Classic, so it's a solid camp/craft knife for overnights. Are you guys going to check out the full tang Mora coming down the pipeline?
Love the Mora's but you have several very expensive knives there,some of them look unused.Can't beat Scandinavian knives Helle martini Mora Falkniven.I have a Mora companion knife in my game bag and a Buck Lite knife on my belt when I'm out hunting for Deer.MORA is an excellent knife for field dressing Deer and rabbits.GOOD vid young man lovely collection of knives.Stay safe.
Mora simply has superb steel and they know how to work it into simple but very functional knives. Of course a fancy 300$ knive with a wooden handle is a thing of beauty but it's not really necessary.
While you are right and everybody can get on with a mora, for someone like me who uses their knife almost daily, there really is nothing quite like that 1 handmade piece of art to make you happy every single time you pick it up. And if you pick it up and use it a lot like I do, the one off cost for a knife for life really isn't a big deal in my opinion
Excellent video my friend,im buying an Enzo trapper or a Tops Bob,cant make my mind up between the Two reason I have very big hands triple X military gloves.I'm worried the handle on the Enzo trapper is too small.i'm preparing tomorrows dinner with the Mora companion brilliant little knife,slicing through vegetables.Any advice on the knives would be appreciated.Stay safe.🤠
I love your personal design the handle fills your palm nice and big, I am just starting out with "bushcrafting". I've always loved carving wood around the campfire but never really paid much attention to knives or their particular ability. I'm two months into this and own 4 blades which 2 are way to heavy 1 is just not good for carving and the last is my Schrade SCHF42 I like it the most. I definitely need a good carving blade so I'm looking at getting something with a spear point like a Bushlore or something like that but definitely something light weight and with a good grip for arm fatigue. One thing I've learned heavy knives SUCK!!!! I feel like my arms are going to look like Popeye's forearms LOL. Anyways nice vid I like that your faves were the low cost Mora's, I'm on a budget so big bang for my buck is always a good thing.
I was swayed on my fist knife purchase by a bushcraft instructor who commented that "if its not carbon its not worth having" I know this is wrong now but then I was just getting into knives. Went for the Mora Companion in carbon and love it! but would like opinions from others on the carbon stainless debate as my carbon is tarnishing and don't know if I NEED to do anything with it to clean it up for food prep especially. ATB from the UK.
My very first fixed blade knife at 15 was a custom. I have many pocket folding knives prior. I have 2 puukko rat tail tang knives and a Jacklore Classic. I have a Bernie Garland Whittler coming next week and in January I am ordering a Willow Woods Knife -Arden. I just love the feel of natural exotic wood and knowing it was hand made. My dad always hammered in my head to always buy a tool that was made with a man's bare hands over production line made. By the way , can you and your brother do educational bush craft videos together on an over nighter this winter in the snow ? Peace
I've been looking for a non locking folding knife (legal carry knives in the UK have to be 3 inches or less and not lock). I might get myself a fieldmaster
Say Heah Turtle, I made a nice Lite Trio using my Mora 2000 and my Mora Hatchet along with my Baccho Laplander. But the brambles are starting to get nasty to get through. I got lucky to buy in excellent condition a Case Pawnee. It's a thin blade that slices great. It makes feathers easy. I teamed it with my Case Jungle Machete Knife, It's a inexpensive combo, but just right to tame a path through some brambles. The Case Jungle Machete Knife is a 10" blade and I keep it very sharp. The luck came, First I just got the Case Pawnee without a sheath, But I found a original Basket Weave in excellent condition and both knives match perfectly except the sheath on the Case Jungle Machete is in came but no big deal the knives match near perfectly. Yeah, I got lucky because God Always is Good and Good is Always Good. Just in time to use a Summer Ling Knife in my area, A great set came my way. Go figure. Yeah this week I'm using it for my Afternoon Delight a hot cup of coffee on a open fire and a baked potato.
Hey turtles, a sharp knife is a safe knife because you don’t have to apply as much pressure to use it so you’ll have less accidents. Keep up the good work krik and brother
Besides requiring less force to cut, making it less jerky, I believe that when you know a knife is sharp you respect it a lot more. A lot like when you're near a cliff as opposed to a few feet drop.
I will try my best to be understable because i am french from quebec, I have mora compagnon, mora robust, coldsteel bushman and fallkeiniven A1. For all of you searching a good blade go with mora, i think for the price mora is the best blade and easy to sharp . i have my A1 for 2 years now and i dont sharp it because i dont have the skill to make a good work but my mora i can make razer sharp . Thx for vids and good day
Okay, taking a shot here. I've never seen your channel before, but I like what I see so far -- nice spoons, nice knives...! To answer the challenge, without getting further into the video, left to right: (1) Victorinox model, going with the Camper; (2) Mora Companion; (3) don't know; (4) TOPS BOB; (5) LT Wright -- GNS?; (6) BHK -- Woodsman?; (7) Mora 120 or 122; & (8) the Wenger version of the One Handed Trekker (Ranger?). (I kinda have a thing for knives.)
Well, you may not live in the woods, but if you take trips into the backcountry, you may find yourself living there for quite a while, if you get injured. But if all you really want a knife for is carving, buy a large Stockman, and learn to use the three blades, particularly the sheepsfoot. There's a reason it's used by professional woodcarvers the world over. You can still use your fixed blade to do the heavy work, but small, intricate detail is much, much easier with a Stockman that you know how to use. If you really want to get intricate, and make all the carving cuts with ease, buy a Carving Jack. It's filled with dedicated carving tools. There's a bit of a leaning curve, but that's the fun part. Judging by the carvings you have in this video, you won't have any trouble at all learning to use a Stockman, or a Carving Jack.
Say Heah Turtle, Yeah, I know exactly what you mean about Bushcraft knives and bush craft knife and now the American term wood craft knives. That out of the way, My Fav bush craft knife is prolly my Busse Combat Son of Badger. But my Fav wood craft knife is my Ratmandu in the INFI Steel. I also have it in the SR101 a great knife too. I do have a Bushcraft knife that George K that used the G. E. K. Logo (R. I. P) made me a 4" Woodlore style blade but with a Choil, and 3/16" thick blended down to a Zero Grind out of a Saw Steel, It's awesome. Actually it might be just shy of 4" but a very easy to handle. I started learning to hold the knives differently and not always by the handle, which really helps me when I'm working wood. A sharp knife is safer because a dull knife might slide off too easy and bite you but good, Something you don't want to happen when your far from civilization. Yeah, a sharp knife is safer because it cuts and less chance to slide off and injuries you.
Knowing a knife is sharp keeps you alert to that fact. You're less inclined to do a stupid or careless maneuver with it for fear of being cut. You tend to be more focused knowing a knife is sharp.
If I could, I'd have the entire Bark River line and that is all. As is, I'll have to be content with my Bravo 2 in A2. For my short fixed blade, I use a DPx HEST Original. I'm sure a bunch of people already answered, but a sharp knife is a safe knife in my opinion because it won't act unpredictably.
I've got two great and cheap Swiss knives from Hultafors - 380010 & 380020. The latter is pure awesomeness. Super comfortable grip, thick spine (3.5mm) and very easy to sharpen. If you find it, give it a spin. I would love to try Fallkniven F1, although I'm a little but hesitant about lens grind. It's not that easy to maintain. Anyway, thanks for a great video, guys! Your content is awesome, so keep up the good work :-)
I think they are Swedish not Swiss, I have the F1 in a 3G steel. And you are right about the sharpening, in fact I think I might well have messed up the blade, it's my first knife so I guess it's inevitable just wish it wasn't such an expensive knife.
+Doodlez Hi, Swede as I am, I like that you think of Swedish steel :) About the F1, I have a couple different Fällkniven knives and all of them has convex edge. I just want to say that once you get used to sharpen them it's quite easy to maintain. The best thing is just to regularly strop them. Works great and take no time to get razor sharp edge. Good luck with the "knife hunt" :)
The first one is a victorinox multitool, Just de basic colour and shape. The second one is a mora compagnion, high carbon. And that is about it. I've seen some of the other knives but do not know the names.
+Chance Stotts your videos relax me .... just the woods with the campfire sound and the rushing waters and you go into just enough detail without being extremely lengthy.
Sharp knife sure is a safe knife. Don't need to be messing around with a dull knife and using extra pressure trying to control an "uncontrollable" (for lack of a better word) knife. Sharp knives do what you tell them to with less effort and more control. I also feel that there is a psychological factor that causes you to be extra careful because you know how sharp your knife is. I haven't yet completely looked at your channel, but do you happen to use straight razors or safety razors? It seems in line with your interests. I really enjoy the sharpening/honing process with straight razors and love using a razor that someone used 50 years ago. It's great. If you haven't yet discovered the hobby, drop me a line!
A clean cut versus a jagged tear makes eons of difference in the healing process.(pre-med) Sharp knives are indeed safe knives~ Great videos, always enjoy them~
thanks for the shoutout krik! glad you're still loving the knife!
Those are some fine choices. The regular old Mora Companion is my favorite of the bunch. That knife just works.
I should have never got into knives. Mora really is all you need for a carving knife imo. love em... nice video guys.
+ScrambledO Agreed. I use them most of the time for carving. And depending on the wood I'll have to sharpen them from time to time because of a slight roll or chip. But they're super easy to sharpen and strop. Win win.
Scrambled O ....I felt the same, so I got rid of all my higher end (aka: expensive) knives and now have a mora kansbol, a mora companion, and a swiss army knife. All three were less than $100 and can do the same job that the other knives could do. And they arent nearly as heavy to carry around. Somehow we have been sold on the claim that a good knife has to be a certain steel, certain grind, etc.....just not true.
I can see why people like certain knives, but that doesnt make them necessary
@@jay-rus4437 so true my friend,whats with all these super steels.Stay safe.
Your videos are so relaxing. Its peaceful and fun to watch, i dont even need a new bushcraft knife but i watched it anyways.
Also I didn't get the fascination with Moras... until I bought one. Now I have three.
They are certainly the best bang for your buck blades.
You guys have no idea how much I appreciate the quality of video and time you spend with the actual look of your vids and channel. Definitely beats every other outdoors channel in the Tube. Kudos friends. Oh and the Mora just can't be beat...
+LMz18 Thanks for the kinds words man. And I agree, Moras are in a league of their own.
Its more than coincidence. Those who's opinion I trust most (yourself included) appreciate Mora knives as all a person really needs. I have a small collection of outdoor knives but seem to reach for one of my six Moras (three outdoor and three carving) most often. Thanks for another great video
Great video, as always. Absolutely excellent handiwork on the wooden art, smooth and flowing. Thanks for always providing superior quality film and comtent.
Very cool. I love my Mora Companion. I got the thinner version too. Thanks for showing
I could not I’d them. As always , thank you for sharing as I am just stepping up from a mora companion to a more robust design. There are many choices and I am thankful for all the useful information.
Great review of your favorites. I really like the Moras and the scandi grind, and agree with Krik, that just because it is inexpensive, it does not change my basic philosophy of taking care of those things that I rely on.
As I recall, my Father taught me as he freehand sharpened knives, that a sharp knife is safer as you do not have to exert excessive force to make a cut, thus keeping you from slipping and injuring yourself or another.
Very good video! Thank you for the brief explanation of your reason for choosing each one of these wonderful "tools". Mora's are hard to beat especially if you are on a limited budget.
Nice collection, thanks for sharing with us.
Very, very, very well done on your carved items.
+LIVE2HUNT Thanks buddy.
Cool vid! I love observing earth, explore and meditate...
I really like your carving items. Very fine work.
Thanks Mark.
I bought a Mora Companion after seeing your vids, love it!
I identified them all but that of your design. And I wrongly guessed that Mora Companion is the heavy duty one. And your design is really beautiful 🔪✨
Hello Krik, very nice and good knives (tools)! All the best, Sepp
+Waldhandwerk Thanks Sepp!
A sharp knife requires less effort and force to use allowing more control with less risk.
yup
....And does much more damage when the inevitable mistake is made.
why don't people get that!!
Well yes and no. Sure, it'll definitely cut you deeper, but a clean cut is much easier to clean and less prone to infection than you'd have with a dull or jagged blade. The scar will be much less noticeable, which is why scalpels are so effing sharp. If I were to sever a tendon on my hand, I'd much rather it be done with a very sharp blade because that would mean there'd be less damaged end of the tendon that a surgeon would have to cut away to reattach it.
Yes, but define "sharp". There's a point where sharpness means the knife won't hold an edge at all, a sharpness where it holds an edge just for a short time, meaning you have to touch up, are sharpen from scratch, more than once or twice during a project, and a sharpness where you can cut anything you need to cut, but that will keep an edge for days or weeks.
Traditionally, woodsmen have sharpened working belt knives at a forty-eight degree inclusive angle, or twenty-four degrees per side. This gives a knife all the sharpness it needs, but almost makes the edge last a long time.
Today, thanks mostly to marketers and TH-cam, everyone seems to think a knife is dull unless it will shave your arm. That's silliness. It's impressive, but it's silly, unless the main task you want that knife for is shaving. Knives come from companies drastically over-sharpened, and consumers maintain that over-sharpening because they just don't know enough about knives. Chances are they've never even picked up a knife that wasn't over-sharpened.
A dull knife is a bad knife, and needs to be sharpened, but a knife that over-sharpened is just as bad as a dull knife, and usually just as dangerous.
The truth is you won't even notice the difference in sharpness between a knife such as a Mora or a Buck that has a twenty-two degree inclusive angle, and a working knife that has a forty-eight degree inclusive angle, unless you do try to shave with it. For common knife tasks, they cut the same way, with the same ease, but the one with the forty-eight degree inclusive angle will hold its edge several times as long, and will be a lot stronger, meaning it won't chip or roll, because it has a lot more metal backing it.
There is a place for a razor sharp knife, and that place is a SMALL knife intended only for carving green wood, or cutting small things such as a piece of cordage.
Every "bushcraft" knife I've seen, including the Mora, is a poor choice for a dedicated carving knife. I've seen some wonderful carving done with them, but no knife that has a single blade can do it all, especially with ease. You can tell a real woodsman by the pocketknife he carries. If he carries none, he has no clue what he's doing. If he carries a pocketknife with only one blade, especially some form of flip knife, he has no clue at all what he's doing.
If he carries a pocketknife with two blades, such as a Hunter, you know he's a real woodsman. If he carries a pocketknife that has three blades, which means a Stockman, he's not only a real woodsman, he also knows what carving green wood really means. I've never seen a professional woodcarver who used a "bushcraft" knife, and I've never seen one who used a Mora. I've seen more than a hundred who use a Stockman for all their basic green wood carving. Or dried basswood carving. Most professional woodcarvers prefer basswood because there's no grain to worry about, and even when dried, it cuts as smooth as butter.
There's only one real exception to the pocketknife rule, sort of, and that's the Buck 110. It's an exception because even though it's a folder, it's considered a belt knife, not a pocketknife. If you need a large, hefty, sheath quality knife for carrying places where a fixed blade knife would not look right, and might even frighten people, there is no better choice than a Buck 110. But even it has no place in the woods, except maybe as a backup to your backup.
Real woodsmen have never used their belts knives for carving. Doing so means their belt knife can't have a grind on it that makes it perfect for a dozen other things a belt knife is called on to do. And a belt knife Is not a very good carving knife, anyway. Compared to the three different kinds and sizes of blades on a Stockman, it's lousy, however good an expert makes it look.
And a woodsman needs a belt knife that will do those other things because his life might depend on it. So might the life of a bushcrafter, if he gets into trouble. Even a big game hunter needs the belt kind to have a grind that can withstand hitting large bone.
The bushcraft community is large, but seems pretty isolated, especially where knives are concerned. Everyone seems to want a thick blade so they can beat on their knives with clubs, which is always stupid and amateurish, and means that person has no clue what a knife is for, or what tools he should be carrying. They also want a high, thin Scandi grind, which is great for green wood, but lousy for most other things. People complain that a Mora's edge will roll when they strike a bone in a rabbit, and I've seen five hundred dollar knives made from CM154 chip badly when skinning a single deer, both because of that high Scandi grind.
Anyway, yes, sharp is good, and dull is bad, but there's a heck of a lot more to it than being shaving sharp, or can't cut butter dull. Good sharpness means knowing the size of your knife, the grind on your knife, and most important, knowing the tasks that knife will be used for.
The swisstool x is a great bushcraft tool. It has a great little awl, file and chisel on it, and everything locks
+CedricAda Gear and Outdoors I haven't looked into that one. And I trust your opinion. I'll give 'er a look.
They are pricey, but I pretty much stopped buying multitools after I got this one. The new Leatherman Signal is cool looking and may tempt me back from MT purchase retirement, but the Swisstool pretty much has all the bush tools on it. More than the Signal, which is marketed as a bush Multi Tool.
I love my BOB knife, I use it more as a backpacker/survival blade than detail carving. Just got a Falkniven S1 because.............toys. Looking forward to trying it out as soon as I get more home remodeling done and I can go play more outside.
I like this video... A sharp knife is a safe knife because it reduces the risk of accidents and is easier to work with.
I've only got two, the mora companion like yours and the cold steel bushcraft. The Cold steel is a neat design, handle and blade one solid piece of steel. The handle is rolled over to leave a hollow space, to store tinder, fit to a pole as a spear or for an extended handle. love them both.
+Jackson Eberle That Cold Steel in neat, just don't let your life depend on it. It will break.
+James Ritchie For sure, I just like the design. Concept of having the handle of the same steel as the blade and its adaptability for use as a spearhead, fun and has been handy.
Nice BCK collection ! I have both the GNS in scandi grind as well as saber grind I also have the Genesis in scandi grind . I prefer the GNS in scandi . Thanks for showing your collection and thoughts I enjoy your videos and all of your woodsman skills that you share thanks again 👍🏻✌🏻️
WoW Krik, I just pulled the trigger on a New Attitude Knife from Battle Horse, I never seen this video before and if I did, I didn't do mine similar to your all time Fav's. I'm having mine thinned down to 5/32" thick with a curve, I also am having a high scandi vex grind put on it with a White handle with blue liners, It almost blew my sis off when I seen your mist Fav's because of how similar mine will be to yours. Thanx for sharing your knives. I was never into Mora Knives but I do have a old Frost Clipper that's still going strong and a vintage I think military Mora that has a leather sheath with a meral trim and embossed on the leather are three crowns and a large " A". The knife has a hand gaurd and curly birch handle with a meral pommel in very good shape. With everything I heard on the Mora 510 I decided to get one, as I browsed through the different styles I also got the Classic #1. Then I found the Forest Exclusive # 277 and I got that one too, I like you like a slender blade to carve with, it's made out of a laminated steel I think stainless with a carbon core. I'm also getting a few more in that line and the Garber Full Tang Mora. The Mora 2000 and the Mora Hatchet caught my eye, the price was reasonable but to get that price you had to get it in the Orange. Anyhow I got the Olive Green version and I even bought a Bacho Laplander to match my new Trio, even though the Laplander comes in orange too. I did get lucky to get the green set, my Bokor Plus Black Vox Rold does match into that set and my Victorninox Delemont Collection Ranger Grip 78 the sgeath I carry it in is greenish too. Thanx for a great review
That video was extremely informative. Thanks!
I can't name your knives.I do know why a sharp knife is a safe knife. It is because a sharp knife cuts through your work easily and it is easier to control. Love your stuff guys keep it up.
I love the shape of your favorite knife. I have been looking for a knife that looks exactly like that in D2 steel.
Great video buddy, and yes a sharp knife is a safe knife because it will stay in the work and not as inclined to slip like a dull knife may do. I love your leather work, in fact you know what, I just love your channel overall. You provide lots of info in your presentations when you listen. Thanks for sharing all your videos.
+Shawn Wideman Thanks for the kind words Shawn.
Nice collection you have there.
Very nice set of knives, Im a Mora guy as well!!
Missed the models on the saks but got the rest. Very good picks some of my favorites as well. bcnw 01 and spyderco bushcraft are some solid picks as well. Anything by WC knives is also great. Thumbs up.
Nice video. Love my Mora.
I got the 2 Mora's , the Tops B.O.B and the SA classic I wasn't positive about the other SA thought it might be a Trekker. Love the knife you designed looks comfortable and solid. I like my Mora 120 the best for carving.
I'm way late, but I think I recognize a mora there. Anyway, I enjoy a knife review from someone who really uses them. Every review I see people stabbing and batoning. It is refreshing to see a knife just cutting and carving.
Check out the Condor Hudson Bay Bush Knife. I’ve used it for wood chopping and cooking.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
I like your choice in knives. Very nice. I was able to guess all but two of the knives before being removed from their sheaths. My favourites among what was shown are the two LT Wrights. The GNS and Genesis are among my favourite LT Wright blades. I have yet to purchase a Mora and have no reason to offer. My first choice will be the Mora Bushcraft Carbon Black. There will be others added at a later date.
Your favorite knife you show at the end is that 3/32" thick. It looks perfect. Most knives are way to thick in my opinion. They just don't slice like a thinner stock blade does. Thank you
+Scott Matthews It's thinner than most bushcraft knives, yes.
I really enjoyed this video.
I got them all right except for the classic and your design lol I thought the classic was a BCNW and I had no idea what the one you designed was lol.
But a sharp knife is safer because you don't need to push as hard on your knife so the follow through is less dramatic. So the sharper the less pressure you need which in return your follow through is more Controlled.
And you and Stoney have been 1 of my top favorite TH-cam channels for awhile now. I've been youtubing for going on 3 years and Black owl Outdoors was one of the first Channels I subbed to. E2E then you. I love Stoney's camera work and your guys editing. And you are perfect in front of the camera.
I'm still waiting on the Mora vs Hultafors vs Marttinii video but what you guys do without our help is perfect I wldnt change anything well yeah I would I would change the length of your videos and the amount of testing on a knife... Idc what knife it is... It can be the mora companion or classic just let us watch you carve! Lol
Enjoyed your video, I like the way you talk to the camera just like you would if you had a few friends hanging out. To the question why is a sharp knife a safe knife is simple when the tool is at its sharpest you don't have to force it and you have less chance of hurting yourself. Thank You for your time and effort.
of course we like the vids you produce! I'm digging your latest outfits too..the drab grey/greens. very 'Dapper Outdoors'. cheers.
Great production in your videos.
I've got a Mora Companion. Fantastic knife, extremely easily to get it razor sharp and I love to carve with it. Sadly the blade is very soft and the tip has already broken off and some parts of the blade. But I cant complain for the price.
Great video great knives from Hawaii great job bro
Really awesome video bro 👊!!!!
Great knives. I carry the Classic on day hikes and such where I don't want to be weighed down, and for work on a small camp near my place. I also have a Bushcraft Black; it's not as good of a carver as the Classic but it's better for more tasks than the Classic, so it's a solid camp/craft knife for overnights. Are you guys going to check out the full tang Mora coming down the pipeline?
nice collection
Love the Mora's but you have several very expensive knives there,some of them look unused.Can't beat Scandinavian knives Helle martini Mora Falkniven.I have a Mora companion knife in my game bag and a Buck Lite knife on my belt when I'm out hunting for Deer.MORA is an excellent knife for field dressing Deer and rabbits.GOOD vid young man lovely collection of knives.Stay safe.
What materials, steel and handle, are the knife you had made?
great video brother 😊
Just starting out. Only got the multi-tools right :)
Mora simply has superb steel and they know how to work it into simple but very functional knives. Of course a fancy 300$ knive with a wooden handle is a thing of beauty but it's not really necessary.
+LionheartSJZ Agreed. It's a hobby for most of us. And we want custom goods, we don't need them.
While you are right and everybody can get on with a mora, for someone like me who uses their knife almost daily, there really is nothing quite like that 1 handmade piece of art to make you happy every single time you pick it up. And if you pick it up and use it a lot like I do, the one off cost for a knife for life really isn't a big deal in my opinion
Excellent video my friend,im buying an Enzo trapper or a Tops Bob,cant make my mind up between the Two reason I have very big hands triple X military gloves.I'm worried the handle on the Enzo trapper is too small.i'm preparing tomorrows dinner with the Mora companion brilliant little knife,slicing through vegetables.Any advice on the knives would be appreciated.Stay safe.🤠
Nice knives.
You are super cool and have a great Channel👍
I love your personal design the handle fills your palm nice and big, I am just starting out with "bushcrafting". I've always loved carving wood around the campfire but never really paid much attention to knives or their particular ability. I'm two months into this and own 4 blades which 2 are way to heavy 1 is just not good for carving and the last is my Schrade SCHF42 I like it the most. I definitely need a good carving blade so I'm looking at getting something with a spear point like a Bushlore or something like that but definitely something light weight and with a good grip for arm fatigue. One thing I've learned heavy knives SUCK!!!! I feel like my arms are going to look like Popeye's forearms LOL.
Anyways nice vid I like that your faves were the low cost Mora's, I'm on a budget so big bang for my buck is always a good thing.
I was swayed on my fist knife purchase by a bushcraft instructor who commented that "if its not carbon its not worth having" I know this is wrong now but then I was just getting into knives. Went for the Mora Companion in carbon and love it! but would like opinions from others on the carbon stainless debate as my carbon is tarnishing and don't know if I NEED to do anything with it to clean it up for food prep especially. ATB from the UK.
Great vid fellas
mora companion, tops bob, lt wright gns ltwright genis and wenger evo grip? (not in any order)
The saw on the Wenger isn't locked, is it?
Sweet shirt and hat, what's the make and models if you don't mind?
I just got a fieldmaster for Christmas, what sheath does he use in the video? I'd like to get one.
+miles ah or does he make them himself?
+miles ah I do make a lot of my own stuff!
Woah! They look so professional!
My very first fixed blade knife at 15 was a custom. I have many pocket folding knives prior. I have 2 puukko rat tail tang knives and a Jacklore Classic. I have a Bernie Garland Whittler coming next week and in January I am ordering a Willow Woods Knife -Arden. I just love the feel of natural exotic wood and knowing it was hand made. My dad always hammered in my head to always buy a tool that was made with a man's bare hands over production line made.
By the way , can you and your brother do educational bush craft videos together on an over nighter this winter in the snow ?
Peace
Cool collection, yeah whit the sharp knife you handle it with care and you dont use much energy becouse its effecient (Sharp). Cheers
I've been looking for a non locking folding knife (legal carry knives in the UK have to be 3 inches or less and not lock). I might get myself a fieldmaster
Say Heah Turtle, I made a nice Lite Trio using my Mora 2000 and my Mora Hatchet along with my Baccho Laplander. But the brambles are starting to get nasty to get through. I got lucky to buy in excellent condition a Case Pawnee. It's a thin blade that slices great. It makes feathers easy. I teamed it with my Case Jungle Machete Knife, It's a inexpensive combo, but just right to tame a path through some brambles. The Case Jungle Machete Knife is a 10" blade and I keep it very sharp. The luck came, First I just got the Case Pawnee without a sheath, But I found a original Basket Weave in excellent condition and both knives match perfectly except the sheath on the Case Jungle Machete is in came but no big deal the knives match near perfectly. Yeah, I got lucky because
God Always is Good and
Good is Always Good.
Just in time to use a Summer Ling Knife in my area, A great set came my way. Go figure. Yeah this week I'm using it for my Afternoon Delight a hot cup of coffee on a open fire and a baked potato.
I love this channel. You should start making videos again. Could be fun.
Do you like the benchmade 162 bushcrafter
Hey turtles, a sharp knife is a safe knife because you don’t have to apply as much pressure to use it so you’ll have less accidents. Keep up the good work krik and brother
(Left - Right) Swiss army knife, Mora companion, possibly a Bark river, Tops B.O.B, ESEE maybe, again ESEE, Helle, and victorinox
Besides requiring less force to cut, making it less jerky, I believe that when you know a knife is sharp you respect it a lot more.
A lot like when you're near a cliff as opposed to a few feet drop.
Here is an easy question for Krik at Black Owl - What famous knife was the LT Wright Genesis modeled after?
Please. Do videos about carving utensils. Thank you!
mora companion is in my top 5 aswell
I will try my best to be understable because i am french from quebec, I have mora compagnon, mora robust, coldsteel bushman and fallkeiniven A1. For all of you searching a good blade go with mora, i think for the price mora is the best blade and easy to sharp . i have my A1 for 2 years now and i dont sharp it because i dont have the skill to make a good work but my mora i can make razer sharp . Thx for vids and good day
What about the Ontario blackbird sk5?
Okay, taking a shot here. I've never seen your channel before, but I like what I see so far -- nice spoons, nice knives...!
To answer the challenge, without getting further into the video, left to right: (1) Victorinox model, going with the Camper; (2) Mora Companion; (3) don't know; (4) TOPS BOB; (5) LT Wright -- GNS?; (6) BHK -- Woodsman?; (7) Mora 120 or 122; & (8) the Wenger version of the One Handed Trekker (Ranger?). (I kinda have a thing for knives.)
What camera do you use to shoot your videos?
Do you know any other reputable Knife makers for a custom project?
+Daniel Kagarise There are LOTS of reputable knife makers. Finding one to make your project is another thing...
Well, you may not live in the woods, but if you take trips into the backcountry, you may find yourself living there for quite a while, if you get injured. But if all you really want a knife for is carving, buy a large Stockman, and learn to use the three blades, particularly the sheepsfoot. There's a reason it's used by professional woodcarvers the world over.
You can still use your fixed blade to do the heavy work, but small, intricate detail is much, much easier with a Stockman that you know how to use.
If you really want to get intricate, and make all the carving cuts with ease, buy a Carving Jack. It's filled with dedicated carving tools. There's a bit of a leaning curve, but that's the fun part. Judging by the carvings you have in this video, you won't have any trouble at all learning to use a Stockman, or a Carving Jack.
Say Heah Turtle, Yeah, I know exactly what you mean about Bushcraft knives and bush craft knife and now the American term wood craft knives. That out of the way, My Fav bush craft knife is prolly my Busse Combat Son of Badger. But my Fav wood craft knife is my Ratmandu in the INFI Steel. I also have it in the SR101 a great knife too. I do have a Bushcraft knife that George K that used the G. E. K. Logo (R. I. P) made me a 4" Woodlore style blade but with a Choil, and 3/16" thick blended down to a Zero Grind out of a Saw Steel, It's awesome. Actually it might be just shy of 4" but a very easy to handle. I started learning to hold the knives differently and not always by the handle, which really helps me when I'm working wood. A sharp knife is safer because a dull knife might slide off too easy and bite you but good, Something you don't want to happen when your far from civilization. Yeah, a sharp knife is safer because it cuts and less chance to slide off and injuries you.
Nice first shot! I thought it was a cemercial :)
i think a sharp knife is a safe knife because it cuts the way u expect and doesn't behave unpredictably.
Knowing a knife is sharp keeps you alert to that fact. You're less inclined to do a stupid or careless maneuver with it for fear of being cut. You tend to be more focused knowing a knife is sharp.
very nice!!!!
hi im new to the channel so i dont know what "turtles" means. please educate me on this. thanks.
The only knife I couldn't guess was the last one that you designed haha
If I could, I'd have the entire Bark River line and that is all. As is, I'll have to be content with my Bravo 2 in A2. For my short fixed blade, I use a DPx HEST Original. I'm sure a bunch of people already answered, but a sharp knife is a safe knife in my opinion because it won't act unpredictably.
+Jeremy Madsen I really like Bark River as well. Only used one of their knives thus far though.
I've got two great and cheap Swiss knives from Hultafors - 380010 & 380020. The latter is pure awesomeness. Super comfortable grip, thick spine (3.5mm) and very easy to sharpen. If you find it, give it a spin.
I would love to try Fallkniven F1, although I'm a little but hesitant about lens grind. It's not that easy to maintain.
Anyway, thanks for a great video, guys! Your content is awesome, so keep up the good work :-)
I think they are Swedish not Swiss, I have the F1 in a 3G steel. And you are right about the sharpening, in fact I think I might well have messed up the blade, it's my first knife so I guess it's inevitable just wish it wasn't such an expensive knife.
+Alwyn Roberts you're absolutely right, they are Swedish knives, not Swiss. Thank you for correction.
+Doodlez Hi, Swede as I am, I like that you think of Swedish steel :) About the F1, I have a couple different Fällkniven knives and all of them has convex edge. I just want to say that once you get used to sharpen them it's quite easy to maintain. The best thing is just to regularly strop them. Works great and take no time to get razor sharp edge. Good luck with the "knife hunt" :)
i keep buying knives then i sell them..still havnt found one to replace the mora i dont think there is one lol good video guys
The first one is a victorinox multitool, Just de basic colour and shape. The second one is a mora compagnion, high carbon. And that is about it. I've seen some of the other knives but do not know the names.
THE MIDDLE FIXED BLADE IS THE B.O.B and I THINK THE FAR LEFT FIXED BLADE IS THE MORA CLIPPER and I THINK THE ONE ON THE FAR RIGHT IS A HELLE KNIFE.
theres the mora for sure, lt wright knives, b.o.b, ranger, the rest idk
2 Mora, Tops B.O.B., GNS & Genesis from LT Wright, 2 Swiss Army
Good vid.
A sharp knife is a good knife because it doesn't take as much pressure and leads to less accidents and slips.
+Chance Stotts your videos relax me .... just the woods with the campfire sound and the rushing waters and you go into just enough detail without being extremely lengthy.
Sharp knife sure is a safe knife. Don't need to be messing around with a dull knife and using extra pressure trying to control an "uncontrollable" (for lack of a better word) knife. Sharp knives do what you tell them to with less effort and more control. I also feel that there is a psychological factor that causes you to be extra careful because you know how sharp your knife is.
I haven't yet completely looked at your channel, but do you happen to use straight razors or safety razors? It seems in line with your interests. I really enjoy the sharpening/honing process with straight razors and love using a razor that someone used 50 years ago. It's great. If you haven't yet discovered the hobby, drop me a line!
A clean cut versus a jagged tear makes eons of difference in the healing process.(pre-med) Sharp knives are indeed safe knives~
Great videos, always enjoy them~