"PullStruder": how to make 3D printer filament from recycled plastic bottles
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2021
- I am starting a hackaday project to give detailed explainations on "how to do it". Please refer first to this page !
hackaday.io/project/185196-pu...
Please do not hesitate to "like" both this video and the project on hackaday !
I saw on youtube a few videos of guys recycling plastic PET bottles into 3D printer filament spool.
Here are some links :
• How to Make free & eas... a full serie of videos quite long to wait week after week ...
• #2 Bottle Cutter - Det...
Finally I tried to make my own "pullstruder".
You will need :
- to put some pressure into a PET bottle (2 bar). This is optionnal
- hot gun the bottle to remove all the "carvings" and get an "almost cylinder" : 0:20
- cut the bottle into a ribbon : 1:35 . Plans for a really good "roller cutter" are here : davehakkens.nl/community/foru...
- you can make "cheaper" one but not as good with a simple cutter blade
- build an extruder. For this first prototype, I simply drilled a cylinder of aluminium à 1.75mm diameter. - Then I made a conical shape from 1.75mm to 10mm. So that the filament can enter the hotend and is progressively curved to 1.75mm.
to produce heat I simply used a cheap chineese PID controler equiped with a thermocouple sensor
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AX9....
- the PID is controlling a ceramic band heater :s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A9N....
Here is how to wire PID and band heater. don't forget that it is powerd by MAINS voltage. This could be letal ... you will be warned !
The detailed wirings : • FILAMENT EXTRUDER PART...
Then I designed a winder using an old wiper motor. You will need really a lot of torque to pull the ribbon. A strong and well reducted motor is a MUST...
3D printed parts are on thingiverse : www.thingiverse.com/thing:496...
Finally I successfully "pullstruded" my first filament. One bottle produces 6m of PET filament. 3:12
And I tried to print with this filament the gear to adapt the wiper motor to this winder !
The temperature to print must be high enough. After several failures I got a working set point at 270°C
The printed part adheres very well to the bed at PETG temperature (90°C).
Apart for the filament temperature, the settings are the same as regular PETG.
If you want to join filaments to increase the "bottle size" ! • 3d printer filament jo...
Or better, use a filament run out sensor and change it as sson as it is finished. • prusa i3 mk2s filament...
Now for the width of the ribbon... Here is what I did :
considering that a 1.75mm filament as a section of 2.4mm square
considering that my bottle has a thickness of 0.25mm, then the width should be 2.4/.25 = 9.6mm
I tuned my roller cutter to get (almost) this width, and you can see the result in this video !
With a hole of 1.75mm the filament when pulled has a kind of oval shape and U shape... It is 2mm wide by 1.5mm. It turns out that 2mm is not a problem for my Prusa Mk2S :-)
And I believe that the section is close enough to 2.4mm^2 as the printed result is not that bad.
Still some improvement to be done but for a first attempt I am quite satisfied !
A few months after, I have printed a lot of bottles. And it works pretty well.
You will see on thingiverse that drying your filament before printing can improve a lot the quality of the print. PET is very sensitive to moisture and can absorb water in any room and very fast. Dry your filament into a kitchen oven at 65°C during 1 or 2 hours minimum. Then use your filement as soon as possible - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Magnificent! This is the best DIY extruder I've seen, exactly what I wanted to find to reuse all of the PET bottles. You could join multiple bottles to form longer lengths easily enough.
Yes next step will be to weld filaments from multiple bottles !
@@freedom2000 im about to build my own extruder and give this a shot myself but, maybe you should try stamping the plastic ribbons together with a bag sealer before running it thru the extruder hot end and making it into filament in order to combine multiple bottles of plastic together, in theory that should work well and be simple and easy
@@beansbulletsandbandages891 I am not sure to find an easy way to do this...
Currently the most efficient solution is to use a runout filament sensor directly on the printer. It works really well.
see here : th-cam.com/video/Ss9GOlhPqW8/w-d-xo.html
@BloKaPEW Hi,
Have a look to this video, everything is explained and simple. Beware if not familiar with MAINS voltage that it can be letal.
th-cam.com/video/TXoOTmgRQso/w-d-xo.html
@@freedom2000 can you tell me the thickness of the strip and the heat value you used to roll it, please?
Fácil, Sencillo y efectivo.
Cet homme est un génie. Merci pour cette présentation avec l'accent de Maurice Chevalier.
un génie, faut pas exagérer :-)
Very nicely done. I’ll be relocating this design in the near future, and drinking a lot of 2 liters lol
I am starting a hackaday project to give detailed explainations on "how to do it".
hackaday.io/project/185196-pullstruder-from-plastic-bottle-to-pet-filament
@@freedom2000 can you tell me the thickness of the strip and the heat value you used to roll it, please?
perfect idea
Hello sir! I would like to ask about what AWG did you used for the wirings? like the one AWGs for the wires in the PID, Motor Controller, and other parts in the wiring. Thank you!
I took some scrap 220V wires scavaged from any home appliance.
That is enough to sustain the Heather power. So basically a copper diameter of let say 1.5 mm
Amazing 👏 what is inside of the heating element? I have the PID and the heater from an injection machine I built. I'm recycling PP, LDPE and HDPE. Thanks for sharing.
Into the heating element there is just a cylinder of aluminum. Into this cylinder is drilled a conical hole 1cm on one side and 1.5 mm on the other
@@freedom2000 Yeah thats the big part you left out of your video and Hockaday page.
@@blamm5348 everything is explained into the "logs". Please have look here : hackaday.io/project/185196/log/205755-building-the-pullstruder.
It's really as simple as what is explained. No trick, no hidden part !
Please if you like this project, like and follow it on hackaday and you will get the newest infos.
All the 15 "logs" are accessible here : hackaday.io/project/185196/logs
Start by the bottom one... read from 1 to 15 !
How much di you unflate tyres,and so you thin hot gun for electronics will work(aprox 650W)
Brilliant. It would be great if this could be made into a machine where the bottle are fed in one end and the filament is extruded at the other. Are you planning to take the idea further?
Some Russian guy selling one. I saw it in another video
I will try to have it working easily first. Difficulty seems to be printing of PET itself more than the process
Cool, bien reussi!. A quel vitesse mm/sec enroules-tu le filament? j'assume que trop vite ou trop lent cela a un effet direct sur le résultat!?
A vrai dire je n'ai pas mesuré ! Le moteur d'essuie-glace a deux vitesses, j'utilise la vitesse lente et j'alimente le moteur en 5V au lieu de 12...
Une vitesse trop rapide ne laisse pas assez de temps au filament pour se rétracter. Une vitesse trop lente peut ramolir le filament qui peut casser.
Ceci dit le vitesse n'est pas critique. Ce qui l'est c'est le diamètre du trou (1.5mm) et la température 200-210 °C
Nice feat. This is way faster than pelleting and extruding, I really missed a resistance test at the end on the printed part :)
Going back I don't think I would have made an attempt myself again, pre-made filament is so much more convenient!
This pet material is more rigid than pla, abs and even petg.
It has however a tendency to less absorb chocks
It is thus more brittle than petg
You are right buying filament is not that expensive. But I can say that making your own at no cost is really exciting !
Have a look at the thingiverse page into the description. There is a batman's batarang printed at a much better quality than the gear into the video.
I just changed the temperature to 270° it makes a huge difference.
Thks for sharing this. But It would be great to show how you setup the filament at the starting point into the spool.
Sorry, i will be away from home during quite a long time... I can't make photos...
For the filament you just have to thin the ribbon into a long triangle shape. 10cm with the top very very thin.
Hi. Thanks for video. Can you share how can i buy cheap PID, and all of these? Because i cannot find via link aliexpress say, page not found. Thanks!
Simply search : pid heater
You will find a lot of link like this one :
a.aliexpress.com/_vOMQLW
This is a great idea. It will help keep plastic bottles from clogging up our oceans.
How would you adapt this process to milk bottles which are square-shaped?
Should work with square bottles of you succeed in cutting the ribbon
Milk bottles are HDPE / LDPE which is very different plastic from the PET. Milk bottles when heated up are better kneaded and press formed into shapes then CNC down into whatever you want or heated up pressurised using a hopper and Archimedes screw to injection mould. The 3D print method relys on quick cooling of the material I feel like hdpe and ldpe retain heat which can cause warping and sagging of layers
Hey there nice video you've provided but
what rpm is required for spool ?
I power the wiper motor with 5V and I do use slowest speed. I never measured the real speed but with these settings and the gear ratio it does work ! Could even be a little faster.
couldnt find the roller cutter from the link you provided.
Is it on those forums by another name?
Hi,
It's in the middle of the page here : davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/pet-ropes-and-filaments-making-v4/
Don't hesitate to scroll quite a lot
@@freedom2000 It says 403 forbidden ----Why?
@@RP4UXO yes the link is dead... I don't know why... not my forum :-)
please which device was the cheap chineese PID controler equiped with a thermocouple sensor connected to ?
Please have a look at the hackaday's project (link into the description)
Please show us how you build the conical shape part that guides the plastic strip, it would be much appreciated!
Yes i would like to show it, but I am currently out of home for at least one month... So I can't do any picture of movie ☹️
I simply took several drill bits with increasing diameters. So start with a 1.5mm hole, then a little shorter 2mm...etc, up to 10mm at the very end.
This approximates the conical shape. You can then use a small conical grinder bit on a rotary tool to improve the conical shape.
@@freedom2000 Thank you so much for your feedback!
bonjour ,
merci pour cette vidéo .
c'est très instructif.
Au niveau du filament obtenu , sérieusement ca vaut quoi?
On arrive a imprimer des choses correcte avec ?
merci du retour
Oui on arrive à imprimer proprement avec !
Mais il y a quelques conditions :
1) impression à haute température 270°C. Il faut une buse full metal du type E3d V6
2) j'ai été obligé de couper le ventilateur Sinon le température baisse trop et j'ai parfois une erreur fatale du firmware...
3) il reste un peu de stringing avec ce filament. Je compense avec de la rétractation... Mais il en reste encore un peu
4) pour supprimer le oozing résiduel il faut cocher l'option "avoid crossing perimeters" dans le slicer
does this create a solid filament or is it more like a straw like filament where it is empty in the center?
It's a kind of U or C shape. Solid but hollow
Hello. A have two question, how do you join two PET filaments together, and at what speed do you print the PET filament. Thanks.
Hi,
For filament joining, please have a look at the two next videos in my channel.
Currently, i only use the filament runout sensor !
And for the speed, exactly the same as regular petg filament !
@@freedom2000 Thank you.
Hello, I have a question
I have tried try to make the same stuff to make my own filament.
When I tried, my filament (the output of the nozzle) is not totally round. I have only half of a cylinder (like this ∪).
Dou you have the same thing ?
Do you think it will be an issue with this filament on the 3D printer ?
Yes this is totally normal. And will not be an issue when printing
Increase flow rate to account for missing material
I have a question. Why is it necessary to heat the nottle Beforehand? I have seen many recycling videos do this...
It's just to remove the "carvings" into the bottle. You put air ressure into the bottle, then you use hot gun to remove these "carvings"
You have done a great job 👏.
From Where can I buy the spool or pulley ? Can you give its dimensions plz
you can print them easily : www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969225
Hello!
I am triing to make this machine. The motor to pull can be nema 17 or should be bigger? How do you control the speed of the motor? i cannot see in the video where the motor is connected and how you can change the speed.
Thanks a lot for your valuable contribution :D
Have a look into the description. There is a link on hackaday's project where everything is described.
Don't hesitate to like !
BTW : it's a wiper motor and no need of speed control
Merci de partager ton projet qui est vrm sympat !
J’ai pour projet de construire une station comme celle que tu as mais bon je m’y connais pas trop en électronique.
Es ce que tu pourrais expliquer comment tu as fabriqué t’a station et tes choix de composants (peut être en vidéo 🙂) ?
Sinon continue comme ça !
Oui bien sûr.
Sur le lien thingiverse il ya un fichier PDF où tout est expliqué plus ou moins en détail. Commence par regarder ça et dis moi si tu ne comprends pas tout
Autant pour moi... Quand tu parlais de station je croyais que tu étais sûr la station de réception satellite...
Mais non tu es sur le "pullstruder" :-)
Oui il faudra que je mette tout ça à jour... Mais actuellement je suis à l'hôpital suite à un accident de 2 roues... Donc il va falloir attendre un peu (un mois mini)...
Sinon c'est juste un corps de chauffe en alu dans lequel est percé un trou conique 10mm d'un côté et 1.75 en sortie.
Il faut tirer sur le ruban pour qu'il se thermoformé dans le corps de chauffe.
C'est tout bête et ça marche ! Au moins sur les essais sur j'ai réalisés jusque là.
Reste à voir si sur d'autres bouteilles les réglages sont stables ou pas ?
Do You have a vídeo on how to Made the machíne that heats and shapes the plastic from a flat strip to a cilinder? It's the only part that I'm missing
please have a look here. You will see close up views of this cylindrical aluminium part
please have a look here : hackaday.io/project/185196-pullstruder-from-plastic-bottle-to-pet-filament
Juste une question, comment avez vous fait l’électronique et le réglage de la buse à 210 degrés ?
C'est un simple pid acheté sur Aliexpress. Regardez le projet sur hackadays. Tout est expliqué en détail.
Lien dans la description !
Ребята из чего нагреватель сделан?
what is the thing that heats and shapes the strings from bottle into 3d printer's filament called?
It is called a heatband, or a heating element
Красота, Вы воплотили многие мои идеи👍🤔🔧
What diameter have you used for the extruder?
The smallest hole at the output of the pullstruder is 1.5mm.
It's the perfect size to get a 1.8 "U" shape filament consistent with a real 1.75mm filament.
I mean that with 1.5mm hole you get a filament that you can consider to be equivalent to a 1.75mm genuine one.
I have a question
How to insert the plastic strip into heater ?
I have tried many times but did'nt get any success
Sorry for my bad English, i hope you get my point
Thank you for your video
Yes i get you perfectly !
Cut the tip of the ribbon so that it can be inserted into the heater while it is cold.
Then pull it a little with a plier to block it in place.
Then start the heater. When it reaches 60°C pull again a little on the ribbon.
When température reaches 130°C pull again on the ribbon, it should move almost easily.
Then adapt the tip of the ribbon into the adapter on the roll.
When température gets 195°C start the roll.
Hi how are things. I would like to ask you about the size of the nozzle you use to print. because I have had many problems when trying to print in pet with a 0.4 nozzle since my printer is of the bowden type. If I was able to print with a 06mm nozzle ...
Yes i only print PET with a very old .4mm nozzle that is currently calibrated to .6mm.
This filament is quite difficult to print so .6mm nozzle is a must
@@freedom2000 perfect. thanks for the tip. I have a tronxy brand printer and it is not easy at all to convert to direct extrusion and I have only seen a video where I use pet with bowden system and I started to investigate since first I tried with a 0.8 nozzle and I had no jams and from there I went down to 0.6. later I will try to test with a 0.5 nozzle to see if I can print. btw, great filament color from that blue bottle
@@Crepypastin2703 beware of high temperatures if your hotend is not "full metal". PFTE tubes does not handle temps above 250°C...
@@freedom2000 maybe I would have to install a capricorn type tube that supports up to 300 °. The information has been very helpful to me since I believed that if I did not have direct extrusion I could not use pet filament. One more piece of information that has worked for me with Bowden is to increase the temperature of the filament extruder by 5 more degrees and make the winder turn a little slower; the pet filament comes out more uniform and does not produce jams in the teflon tube ... if it is wound a little quickly it comes out quite deformed up to almost 2mm and on occasions the pet strip does not finish closing and rounding itself evenly ... great video
@@freedom2000 Good point! While my hotend *is* all-metal, its thermistor wires are insulated with tiny PTFE tubes.☹ I need to replace these with fiberglass tubes (or maybe Kapton tape?) before I try to print higher than 240°C, otherwise there will be toxic fumes and a risk of an electrical short of the thermistor wires.
Also, thanks for the video.
Is there any issue with bottles being clean enough to prevent the filament from feeding properly? Any cleaning tips? I'll be doing this with middle school children.
Water bottle do not need cleaning. Soda bottle only needs to be cleaned with water.
Most important is to remove any glue left by the stickers... Acetone works if water is not enough
Btw, very nice project for children. They will love it
Hi Beth,
please have a look here : hackaday.io/project/185196-pullstruder-from-plastic-bottle-to-pet-filament
Full tuto available !
How you made that nozzle ?
please have a look here : hackaday.io/project/185196-pullstruder-from-plastic-bottle-to-pet-filament
Can i buy one of these as a premade thing or a diy kit from u please?
sorry no... but if you have a 3D printer, just print the parts and you have almost one... Only missing is a PID with a heathing element (see links) and a piece of aluminium to drill the pullstruder. Easy to do !
Разве структуру пластика нельзя восстановить при нагреве в самом экструдере? Что если предварительно не греть бутылку?
it could if the plastic is not too "carved". In any case it's better to have the plastic as smooth as possible
It might worth dry the filament before printing it to improve print quality
Yes you are right drying the PET is to be done (even with commercial filament). PET is very sensitive to humidity.
@@freedom2000 and if it comes from bottles containing liquids has to have loads of moisture in it.
@@umbette Yes sure water into the bottle is also a good reason !
@@freedom2000 Maybe putting silica into the bottle for a week before the process would do the drying. It does a good job to my filaments (1-2kg/30l volume)
@@zoltanmeszaros8001 yes good idea. Or put the bottles into an oven at 60°C during 2 or 3 hours
Salut, au vue de l'accent, tu dois être français ;) J'voulais juste te féliciter pour ton système de découpe à base de roulement, c'est une super idée ! GG
Merci !
Mais ce n'est pas mon idée... Je n'ai fait que l'appliquer !
Hello, your project is very good, I congratulate you. I have some work on the same project, could you please share your ideas about the rex c100 connection with me?
You can also give your Instagram information for communication.
Sorry I missed to answer...
I am starting a hackaday project to give detailed explainations on "how to do it". Please refer first to this page
hackaday.io/project/185196-pullstruder-from-plastic-bottle-to-pet-filament
se puede suplantar el motor de auto por un nema 17?
No I don't think so. The wiper motor has a much stronger torque then a nema17.
Other design do use a nema17 but they are obliged to reduce the speed to avoid that the motor stalls.
They pull 10m in about 45min. I do pull 10m in 10 minutes !
Puedes compartir el codigo y los stl.Gracias.
Have a look at the thingiverse link
I have been trying to do this for 2 weeks. They don't say the exact size of the tape in the videos. They don't say the thickness is right. or they don't say the temperature right. every video is the same. they don't say the main thing is that it's a pity. what do you think is the reason?
Did you read the full description ? Everything is explained with a lot of details : hackaday.io/project/185196-pullstruder-from-plastic-bottle-to-pet-filament
Don't forget to like an follow -on hackaday- if you want to get the latest news of this project
@@freedom2000 The thickness of pet glass is not visible. subtitles are not active in the video. I really don't understand. In addition, what you are doing is not working for me. the printer stops producing. is the reason the size or the thickness or the temperature or the pipe size???
@@oshe967 please read all this project : hackaday.io/project/185196-pullstruder-from-plastic-bottle-to-pet-filament
including "details" and "logs"
This is PETPul. Only slightly modified
I don't know what is PETpul ! I did quote my sources of inspîration into the description... Nothing else !
Мужик, делай как я! Я исключил процедуру протяжки ленты в пруток! Я складываю несколько лент шириной от 1 до 1.4 мм вместе непосредственно в фидер.
Hi,
How do you do this ?
@@freedom2000 Ты не оставил способы связи с тобой в описании твоего канала. Я давно собираюсь сделать видео на моём канале но, как-то не доходят руки. Если предоставишь связь, я с удовольствием наделаю тебе фотографий с описанием. Я считаю мой способ немного проще того что ты предложил.
@@Kmakaot thanks for your proposal. You can contact me here : freedom2000 at free.fr
Why did you put air into the bottle? Whats the purpose for that?!
To put pressure and then to hot gun the bottle in order to remove the "carvings"
@@freedom2000 Hi what happens when you leave the carvings?
@@DarthTrollz well i don't know exactly. But the bottle getting less flat, the thermoforming process is for sure less efficient. You could have small "bumps" at the location of the carvings and this could induce a lack of consistency into the section of the filament.
How did you make the extruder part? It would be cool if you post a video about it.
@@DarthTrollz it makes it hard to cut the bottle into long strips
Nice! Can you update the links for the parts?
I will do it. But currently out of home for at least 15 days...
@@freedom2000 Thank you :)
calibrar mejor la extrucion no se pegan bien las capas
right ! I did changed a little the printing temperature and dried the filament. See results on thinghiverse links
Попробуй поиграться с настройками ... Либо мне кажется либо это недоэкструзия ( попробуй увеличивать подачу пластика по 5% либо по 10% ) и увеличь температуру до 270*С .
У меня получалось лучше . Возможно скорость печати завышена ... попробуй основную скорость от 20 мм/с - 30мм/с ... Возможно обдува детали недостаточно !
" Паутины многовато " . Но результат всё равно нормальный !
Thank you ! Yes I get better results now (265°C and a slightly larger ribbon )
Nem precisa tanto só colocar um balde de água quente e mergulhar ela
sorry I don't catch your comment ...
The moment someone has a proprietary product that I can fill 10kg of shredded cleaned PET into the hopper and come back the next morning to a bigass roll of filament, I'd pay like 15k for that. I want to fucking 3D print a boat! Get your act together guys, a 15ft shitty wooden fishing boat still costs 20 fucking grand where I live. Chop chop
I was thinking the same thing - even further --> bottles one end --> filament at the other end. It shouldn't be that difficult. But how do you 3D print an entire boat ? In sections ?
@@RP4UXO yeah I imagine it would have to either be done in sections or you'd have to have the printer on rails so it could do the entire boat in 1
en français ça serait pas mal, aussi
C'est sûr...
could i have an email or some contact sir. I'm interested in talking about this project with you.🙂
freedom2000 at free.fr
Надо было просушить ленту
takes more electricity than the filament is worth
for sure NO...
can you tell me the thickness of the strip and the heat value you used to roll it, please?
8.5.mm
see here : hackaday.io/project/185196/log/205725-using-the-bottle-cutter
too many hi end tools for a diy proyect
No really it's quite simple. Once the aluminum block is drilled with the conical shape, the project is almost finished
avec l'intonation que vous avez... vous pourriez faire des commentaires en Français !... beaucoup de personnes comme moi cherchent
justement des informations simples mais en Français et à part les Canadiens personne ne s'exprime. Bien dommage !!!.....
Avec l'intonation que j'ai, je n'ai que 6% d'abonnés français... 94% "d'étrangers" arrivent à comprendre mon anglais (et dans les 6% de français je pense que beaucoup parlent anglais aussi) !
N'hésitez pas à poser des questions, même en français j'y réponds !