I dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost my password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
I'm a retired ford service manger with over 30 years working on ford trucks, this was a very good job of explaining the system. Very impressive. Only thing I used to do was determine which way I need to turn the adjuster before I put the rotor or drum on.
Bahhh! That spring was on outside 😳 i bought that truck used and carfax said brakes were done, that michigan mechanic must not seen this video...lol... i went and put them on the outside again, lol! Oh well it works, im not fixing it if it is not broke...😉
Just did my front struts using 1A Auto, and now I'm going to do my parking brakes. Thanks for listing all the parts including tools, it's a big time saver!
Great video! Loved the narrator! UNTIL 8:40 in, AUTO MAGICALLY THE AXLE IS REMOVED!!! WHAT!?!?! Lets see the parking brake replacement with the massive axle end in the way. Hesitant to do this since it seems getting it done without removing the axle will be MUCH MORE DIFFICULT!!! This will make what's done at 17:40 almost impossible!
If u would watch video again she said she was doing other parts she was just showing a step if u are scared about pulling a axle out u shouldn't be working or watching this video
It's not hard to replace with the axle inplace... its as simple as putting the spring in first, using a screw driver to spread the shoes over the upper portion, then put your lower spring on with a pair of needle nose pliers. An extra 30 sec saves you an hour plus of work.
@@bradvincet1848 This is almost identical to what I have on my 96 Explorer. Same levers and all. The Explorer has TWO upper springs. You have to be a bodybuilder to get it on with the axle :lol:.
What we missed was the part where you loosen and drain the differential cover and remove the horseshoe clips so you can slide the axle out. Which adds more time and expense since you'll need to reseal and refill the cover. Mentioning this during the video would have helped.
Good video---I watched a few do this and she is the only one (so far) that advised opening the bleeder B 4 pushing the piston back and damaging the A B S system. That can get a lot more expensive then a caliper for sure. Two things I would add--adjust that star adjuster by hand with the rotor off, when you think you are close try the rotor on a few times till you see the shoes contacting the hat of the rotor. That way you are not spending so much time turning the star adjuster with a tool through that little hole. You may still need to adjust after wheel is on but only a turn or two if that. Stop letting that caliper hang from the rubber hose. Use a stiff wire or bungee cord to take the weight.
Great tips on this video! I really liked the detailed commentary and warnings such as on the ABS system, and it's proper procedure. This lady is not only a great mechanic, but a good teacher as well! Because of this, I am now a subscriber to this channel. Thank you all and especially the lady technician! 👍
This is one of the best and informative videos I have watched. I'm working on my brakes right now and I am happy I found this video because it has the best shots of the parts as well as she is great at explaining everything. You have inspired me. Thank you
I enjoy watching Sue doing brake jobs especially with that Massachusetts accent of hers today will be working on this caaaaar keep up the good work Sue Vinny from Connecticut Massachusetts ain't far from Connecticut woohoo
Abs module defaults to an open position. Made that way in case there’s a failure in abs system. That way the base braking system will still work to stop vehicle. This advice in video about opening the bleeder screw can cause problems for the average do it yourselfer if they don’t properly bleed the system after. Only time I open bleeder is if there’s a leak in system, opening the system for an actual hydraulic portion repair or if I’m flushing the old brake fluid out.
I noticed the top e-brake spring in your video shows it behind the spring. Other videos I have seen shows it in front of the shoes. Is there a reason it goes inside? Much easier to put outside but I want to be correct when putting this beast back together.
I’m still curious how you damage the abs system when the fluid can freely flow back into the master cylinder? Not to mention the abs pumps the same, if not, more pressure than what the human can retract that piston back into the caliper.
Because the calipers are at the lowest point and have filthy brake fluid. Some say that can damage the ABS. It is a good idea to bleed FIRST, then do the brakes.
@@alb12345672 I always open the bleeder screw and then push the piston back in. All the dirty fluid comes out that way, not to mention it goes back in faster like that. Then close the bleeder screw.
+Resurrection Auto Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
excellant, my truck is in the shop as I write this, only doing the drivers side e-break, that alone is gonna cost about $1200. You make it look so ez, I think now I could of done it. thanks.
+mgunde Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You did the easy way, lol. Would love to see some tricks to put the shoe pins back together with the hub still in the way. And the springs I have are not the typical push and twist. They look more like a c-clip and need to be pressed and slid into position. Quite tricky to do with the hubs still in the way.
It's a whole lot easier with the axle removed but it's not necessary. Just be sure there are no children around when you are putting it together with the axle intact! They will learn lots of new words!
i just love that a woman knows mechanic ..you are f good at it...stupid one that talk about the axle that suddenly dissapear..dont know that its a big video that is edit it for to make the other videos ,,or changing the seal or the rear bearing....just by seeing theya re too stupid to figure it out..i can assure they wont be able to remove not even the tire......thanks girl you showed me a lot
+Pepe Clavito Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This was a very informative video. The only problems were letting the caliper hand by the hose and putting the adjusters in backwards. Adjuster goes to the front.
I purchased the kit with the new rubber boots. However, to replace them, the brake dust shield has to come off. I thought I could just loosen the 4 bolts on the shield to pull the shield out enough to slip the new rubber boots in, but there are two rivets holding the dust shield on as well. Do I have to pull the axel out to drill out the rivets just to get the dust shield off, or are there any tricks so I don't have to go through all of that work? Also, if I have to pull the axel out, are the seals reusable or should they be replaced when the axel is removed?
Helpful video but job is a bit more difficult with the drive axle and abs sensor ring in place. Also, how does she get the parking brake lever to stay perfectly at the top when putting in the new shoes? 100% agree with truebloodtexas1 that you shouldn’t let caliper hang by the brake line.
I had the same problem the lever wouldnt stay in place when putting back the new shoes. I noticed in an another video the moving part of the lever that keeps falling off going above instead of below as in this video, which makes more sense to make it stay in place. Any idea if it makes a difference? Also in that other video the top spring is installed in front of the shoes, here in the back
Hey, great job, I didn't see you put any grease on the outside of the pads where the piston touches (inner pad ) and where it (outer pad) touches the outer part of the new caliper, I've always been told to put grease on all the accessible contact points except the ceramic lining on the front of the pad, any input? Eric
This is the second video I watched with Mechanic's installing brake shoes or pads with grease all over there gloves and getting it all over the brake material. I was taught never ever let the brake material get contaminated 😐
This whole procedure is completely different with with leaving the hub on. The clips are near impossible to get back on on my 2015, nor can I get the pivot off or unhooked from the cable with the hub in the way. The springs on 2015 are super beefy too. Not a fun time
The video is excellant and professional. But two things I was disappointed about and the first one is grease from the greasy gloves for on the e brake shoes I thought it would have been appropriate to change gloves. The second I thought it would have been nice if removing the axle could have been included in the instructions. Overall very nicely done. Do you have a video that shows the removal and installation of the axle?
I noticed that when she took the sprocket(?) off the adjuster to grease the threads she put the sprocket back on with the wide side opposite of the way she took it off if that makes a difference.
22 dec 2019 4:3 pm est:thanks 23 dec 2019 11:31 am est: 5:58 show drum-brake is still being covered 8:40 suddenly show drum-brake is open 20:30 suddenly drum-brake has cover again
Also too, how did you get the actual wheel part removed to access the p break shoes? I've seen a video where a guy changed them without removing this, looked like a pain in the ass, I'd feel safer removing that wheel part, I'm assuming thats connected to the axle shaft with bearings, I think I need another axle shaft with new bearings, when driving down the road I notice the bed kind of bouncing up and down just a little, like it may be bent just a little or bad bearings, any idea?
Okay but I’m having a hard time doing this with the axle in place? Do I have to remove it??? I can’t get the clips on the shoes the axle is in the way unless I’m missing something ???
You over torqued the wheel nuts. They did not move with the torque wrench, which means they were over torqued with the air or electric tool before you even started. Only spin them on and snug slightly before using the torque wrench. Someone did that to my LR, it took over 600 ft lbs to remove them.
Why is this different than my 2014 f150 park brake set up? The lever is different and also the upper spring. I don't know if I have the wrong spring kit or what
I saw you lube the clips where they attach to the caliper but I think u forgot to put caliper grease on the outside of the clips where the pads move back n forth on...
The rubber boot at about the 12:09 mark, is that replaceable? Mine is torn, and I'm guessing that's how moisture got in and rusted my parking brake. Where can I find a new rubber boot and is there a name or part number for it?
+Jamie The boot will be replaceable however the boot may not be available separately. You may need to look for a kit that comes with a new cable with the boot. We currently do not carry this part and we suggest checking locally or speaking to a mechanic to see if they are able to get this particular part. We do not have the exact name for this but "parking brake cable boot" should be sufficient to let them know what exactly you are referring to; you can even pull our video up and show them where it goes and what it looks like.
@@1AAuto Thanks for the reply. I found a kit online that comes with the boots. Unfortunately, you have to buy the entire kit not just the boots. For any others that might have the same problem, the kit is made by Dorman and is Part # 924-741 that will fit a Ford F-150.
Very good video. Great quality of video, great precise shots, audio is spot on. I am attempting this job this weekend and will have my laptop with this video right next to me.
great video, lots of useful information! however, it would have been much more informative to see this procedure, and special tools and talents used, with the hubs/axles in place. no one is tearing apart the rear diff to change the parking brake components.
Try reinstalling the parking brake components with the hub assembly still in place! What a pain-in-the-ass! You don't have clearance for pliers to reinstall those pin clips! Not to mention that upper spring on the shoes! You need ALOT of patience!
+Rob Brewer Thanks for checking us out! We currently do not have this part available however we do regularly receive new stock so check back soon! 1aauto.com
Thank you for the illustration. However, i would have liked to view the entire process. Why skip the removal of the axle, when that part is equally significant, although, I understand. It wasn't the main focus of this vid. Thx
I have to replace the back plate on my f150 due to severe rust. The original plate is attached with 4 bolts and 2 rivets. What is the purpose of the rivets? Do I need to install new rivets? The bolts will hold the new plate in place.
I have a 12th gen. I just did my brakes and did not have the shudder thingy. Never seen it before on any of the Fords I have had. Weird never heard of such a thing
+Patrick Peterman Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
As soon as a Caliper was hung by the hose and an axle magically disappeared without explanation i clicked pause to type this. no sense in watching any further.
Hey just wanna say I never put reviews never have the time but wanted to come back to the video and complement that it's amazing to see a women out in what most call a man's job and you explained it very well I got the brakes done much faster. Thanks for the great video Btw wire cutters are not what I use to put springs on it graves it good and if it dose cut your spring it was time to change it anyways noticed the comment below don't have to be a dick because a women had to one show you how to do this job. Gŕeat job
Shoes and rust in rotor parking break drum holding them . I ran in to this doing differential on my 2011 f150 restoration now I have to replace parking brakes and hardware
hi, obviously owner doesn't use the e-brake and unless this is just an instructional video, i don't see the point of replacing it. great video though .. thanks
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost my password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
I am an idiot put the scissor lever together the wrong way dam .
@@nickking1510 hahaha
I'm a retired ford service manger with over 30 years working on ford trucks, this was a very good job of explaining the system. Very impressive. Only thing I used to do was determine which way I need to turn the adjuster before I put the rotor or drum on.
🙏🙏
Bahhh! That spring was on outside 😳 i bought that truck used and carfax said brakes were done, that michigan mechanic must not seen this video...lol... i went and put them on the outside again, lol! Oh well it works, im not fixing it if it is not broke...😉
@@rocxylemmon8535 yes very detailed info
Just did my front struts using 1A Auto, and now I'm going to do my parking brakes. Thanks for listing all the parts including tools, it's a big time saver!
Great video! Loved the narrator! UNTIL 8:40 in, AUTO MAGICALLY THE AXLE IS REMOVED!!! WHAT!?!?! Lets see the parking brake replacement with the massive axle end in the way. Hesitant to do this since it seems getting it done without removing the axle will be MUCH MORE DIFFICULT!!! This will make what's done at 17:40 almost impossible!
If u would watch video again she said she was doing other parts she was just showing a step if u are scared about pulling a axle out u shouldn't be working or watching this video
It's not hard to replace with the axle inplace... its as simple as putting the spring in first, using a screw driver to spread the shoes over the upper portion, then put your lower spring on with a pair of needle nose pliers. An extra 30 sec saves you an hour plus of work.
@@hanksadventures4132 thumbs down on that remark. PITA hands down.
@@bradvincet1848 This is almost identical to what I have on my 96 Explorer. Same levers and all. The Explorer has TWO upper springs. You have to be a bodybuilder to get it on with the axle :lol:.
Never let the caliper hang from the brake line
She does that on everything she works on
It's called job creation... that truck is going back for new lines next year.... or sooner.
yeah that's painful to watch..jesus
I do it every single time and have not once broken anything so shaddup
I think the lady probably knows what she's doing, being that she's a mechanic and all.
What we missed was the part where you loosen and drain the differential cover and remove the horseshoe clips so you can slide the axle out. Which adds more time and expense since you'll need to reseal and refill the cover. Mentioning this during the video would have helped.
*** DO NOT USE CUTTERS TO PULL THE SPRING ***
My first thought too, when I saw that.. AAAAAAHHHHHH, NOOOOO!!!!
@@toddkedzie6587 I always wear full safety glasses around any spring. It can easily take out an eye.
That's what I was thinking
Yes please buy a spring puller
This guy knows what he's doing
Good video---I watched a few do this and she is the only one (so far) that advised opening the bleeder B 4 pushing the piston back and damaging the A B S system. That can get a lot more expensive then a caliper for sure. Two things I would add--adjust that star adjuster by hand with the rotor off, when you think you are close try the rotor on a few times till you see the shoes contacting the hat of the rotor. That way you are not spending so much time turning the star adjuster with a tool through that little hole. You may still need to adjust after wheel is on but only a turn or two if that. Stop letting that caliper hang from the rubber hose. Use a stiff wire or bungee cord to take the weight.
+THG Driver Thanks for the feedback!
Great tips on this video! I really liked the detailed commentary and warnings such as on the ABS system, and it's proper procedure. This lady is not only a great mechanic, but a good teacher as well! Because of this, I am now a subscriber to this channel. Thank you all and especially the lady technician! 👍
This is one of the best and informative videos I have watched. I'm working on my brakes right now and I am happy I found this video because it has the best shots of the parts as well as she is great at explaining everything. You have inspired me. Thank you
Agreed 100%
Do u sell the Parking brake levers for a 2006 Lincoln Navigator Ultimate Sport ?……If so sent me the link cuz I can’t find them nowhere.
Love how you explain every little detail!!! Awesome vids!!!!! Thanks
I enjoy watching Sue doing brake jobs especially with that Massachusetts accent of hers today will be working on this caaaaar keep up the good work Sue Vinny from Connecticut Massachusetts ain't far from Connecticut woohoo
Hands down best videos
Abs module defaults to an open position. Made that way in case there’s a failure in abs system. That way the base braking system will still work to stop vehicle. This advice in video about opening the bleeder screw can cause problems for the average do it yourselfer if they don’t properly bleed the system after. Only time I open bleeder is if there’s a leak in system, opening the system for an actual hydraulic portion repair or if I’m flushing the old brake fluid out.
I noticed the top e-brake spring in your video shows it behind the spring. Other videos I have seen shows it in front of the shoes. Is there a reason it goes inside? Much easier to put outside but I want to be correct when putting this beast back together.
I’m still curious how you damage the abs system when the fluid can freely flow back into the master cylinder? Not to mention the abs pumps the same, if not, more pressure than what the human can retract that piston back into the caliper.
Because the calipers are at the lowest point and have filthy brake fluid. Some say that can damage the ABS. It is a good idea to bleed FIRST, then do the brakes.
@@alb12345672 I always open the bleeder screw and then push the piston back in. All the dirty fluid comes out that way, not to mention it goes back in faster like that. Then close the bleeder screw.
Excellent video. Thanks for taking time to show all of the steps in detail. Also great camera work!
+Resurrection Auto Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
except for the dirty greasy pawprints on the braking material
Pretty cool that women are getting into being mechanics too - and doing a great job by the looks of this video. Good narration too.
excellant, my truck is in the shop as I write this, only doing the drivers side e-break, that alone is gonna cost about $1200. You make it look so ez, I think now I could of done it. thanks.
+mgunde Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You did the easy way, lol. Would love to see some tricks to put the shoe pins back together with the hub still in the way. And the springs I have are not the typical push and twist. They look more like a c-clip and need to be pressed and slid into position. Quite tricky to do with the hubs still in the way.
lol grabbing the friction surface with oily gloves. Besides that great video.
can a person replace e brake without removing the axle hub? at 8:50 or so i dont understand
She only removed it for the view
It's a whole lot easier with the axle removed but it's not necessary. Just be sure there are no children around when you are putting it together with the axle intact! They will learn lots of new words!
I'm trying to figure out new ways to use the F word to get those stupid f%#&$* retaining clips on without pullinh that hub
Thank you for you knowledge and expertise
Yeah, that bent pin will cause uneven brake shoe ware every time. If you drive around with e-brake on.
i just love that a woman knows mechanic ..you are f good at it...stupid one that talk about the axle that suddenly dissapear..dont know that its a big video that is edit it for to make the other videos ,,or changing the seal or the rear bearing....just by seeing theya re too stupid to figure it out..i can assure they wont be able to remove not even the tire......thanks girl you showed me a lot
+Pepe Clavito Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
A great Instructor! Coo, calm and collect in her line of work..
This was a very informative video. The only problems were letting the caliper hand by the hose and putting the adjusters in backwards. Adjuster goes to the front.
I purchased the kit with the new rubber boots. However, to replace them, the brake dust shield has to come off. I thought I could just loosen the 4 bolts on the shield to pull the shield out enough to slip the new rubber boots in, but there are two rivets holding the dust shield on as well. Do I have to pull the axel out to drill out the rivets just to get the dust shield off, or are there any tricks so I don't have to go through all of that work? Also, if I have to pull the axel out, are the seals reusable or should they be replaced when the axel is removed?
Helpful video but job is a bit more difficult with the drive axle and abs sensor ring in place. Also, how does she get the parking brake lever to stay perfectly at the top when putting in the new shoes? 100% agree with truebloodtexas1 that you shouldn’t let caliper hang by the brake line.
I had the same problem the lever wouldnt stay in place when putting back the new shoes. I noticed in an another video the moving part of the lever that keeps falling off going above instead of below as in this video, which makes more sense to make it stay in place. Any idea if it makes a difference? Also in that other video the top spring is installed in front of the shoes, here in the back
Why don't you show the job WITH the axle in place? Who would remove axles just to change the parking brake?
She does the rear seal replacement in another video, and then replaces the parking break as well. It’s all one series on the same truck.
On some fords you have to remove the axle like f350
Hey, great job, I didn't see you put any grease on the outside of the pads where the piston touches (inner pad ) and where it (outer pad) touches the outer part of the new caliper, I've always been told to put grease on all the accessible contact points except the ceramic lining on the front of the pad, any input?
Eric
This is the second video I watched with Mechanic's installing brake shoes or pads with grease all over there gloves and getting it all over the brake material. I was taught never ever let the brake material get contaminated 😐
Not what I was looking for but indeed, worth watching. 18 mins into it, she gave me a giggle. I'd say 'indeed' to that too.
+Gypsy Raht Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Cutters are an odd thing to use as pliers on a spring wire.
Odd? maybe so, but the cutters did the job very nicely
They give you more leverage, awful lot of non mechanics here commenting
They also slightly cut the metal making a weak point so the spring will fail early making more business for the mechanics
Never let the caliper hang and do not install pads with dirty gloves.
This is a very good video
Good job Sue. My only concern was watching you let the caliper hang by the flex brake line. Ouch...
so gravity bleed is is good enough? no pumping and holding?
This whole procedure is completely different with with leaving the hub on. The clips are near impossible to get back on on my 2015, nor can I get the pivot off or unhooked from the cable with the hub in the way. The springs on 2015 are super beefy too. Not a fun time
Any tips? I’m doing my 2012 and I’m having a hard time getting those damn clips in.
Anyone know if the process is similar on a 2016 3.6L eco? Or if there is a similar video for that model? Having hard time finding videos.
Can anyone suggest a video for parking brake installation without the axle being removed.
Hello! please tell me how to arrange a squeak from behind when braking and when I release the brake pedal. f-150 12
Very thorough job, alot of criticism over a couple mistakes on here
The video is excellant and professional. But two things I was disappointed about and the first one is grease from the greasy gloves for on the e brake shoes I thought it would have been appropriate to change gloves. The second I thought it would have been nice if removing the axle could have been included in the instructions. Overall very nicely done. Do you have a video that shows the removal and installation of the axle?
I noticed that when she took the sprocket(?) off the adjuster to grease the threads she put the sprocket back on with the wide side opposite of the way she took it off if that makes a difference.
Nice work
+Steve Pancher Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
22 dec 2019 4:3 pm est:thanks
23 dec 2019 11:31 am est:
5:58 show drum-brake is still being covered
8:40 suddenly show drum-brake is open
20:30 suddenly drum-brake has cover again
She mentions they took the hub because it was being replaced as well but it isn't necessary to do the job.
Also too, how did you get the actual wheel part removed to access the p break shoes? I've seen a video where a guy changed them without removing this, looked like a pain in the ass, I'd feel safer removing that wheel part, I'm assuming thats connected to the axle shaft with bearings, I think I need another axle shaft with new bearings, when driving down the road I notice the bed kind of bouncing up and down just a little, like it may be bent just a little or bad bearings, any idea?
Great video
Okay but I’m having a hard time doing this with the axle in place? Do I have to remove it??? I can’t get the clips on the shoes the axle is in the way unless I’m missing something ???
Nice job
+philipfm Thanks for the feedback!
You over torqued the wheel nuts. They did not move with the torque wrench, which means they were over torqued with the air or electric tool before you even started. Only spin them on and snug slightly before using the torque wrench. Someone did that to my LR, it took over 600 ft lbs to remove them.
+Michael Smith Thanks for the feedback!
What’s that plate thing called after removing axle shaft? The part that the ebrake shoes sit in?
Why is this different than my 2014 f150 park brake set up? The lever is different and also the upper spring. I don't know if I have the wrong spring kit or what
+Jason King The installation should be similar but there will be differences based on the year and models.
@@1AAuto mine is a 2014 XLT with XTR package. Slightly different park brake set up from the one in your video. Upper spring is definitely different.
It’s fricking hard with the hub in the way lol
I saw you lube the clips where they attach to the caliper but I think u forgot to put caliper grease on the outside of the clips where the pads move back n forth on...
The rubber boot at about the 12:09 mark, is that replaceable? Mine is torn, and I'm guessing that's how moisture got in and rusted my parking brake. Where can I find a new rubber boot and is there a name or part number for it?
+Jamie The boot will be replaceable however the boot may not be available separately. You may need to look for a kit that comes with a new cable with the boot. We currently do not carry this part and we suggest checking locally or speaking to a mechanic to see if they are able to get this particular part. We do not have the exact name for this but "parking brake cable boot" should be sufficient to let them know what exactly you are referring to; you can even pull our video up and show them where it goes and what it looks like.
@@1AAuto Thanks for the reply. I found a kit online that comes with the boots. Unfortunately, you have to buy the entire kit not just the boots. For any others that might have the same problem, the kit is made by Dorman and is Part # 924-741 that will fit a Ford F-150.
yes doman makes it
Wow. Instead of a parking brake repair, we get the infamous $1000 brake job. WTF?!
Very good video. Great quality of video, great precise shots, audio is spot on. I am attempting this job this weekend and will have my laptop with this video right next to me.
just love it when you skip steps.. (please recognize my sarcasm)
Does it matter if the top spring go behind the shoes or front ?
Don't put anything in between the pad and rotor
What is caliper grease can I use regular bearing grease?
great video, lots of useful information! however, it would have been much more informative to see this procedure, and special tools and talents used, with the hubs/axles in place. no one is tearing apart the rear diff to change the parking brake components.
Try reinstalling the parking brake components with the hub assembly still in place! What a pain-in-the-ass! You don't have clearance for pliers to reinstall those pin clips! Not to mention that upper spring on the shoes! You need ALOT of patience!
All kidding aside helpful videos
Great video......I am searching for the parts and nothing is coming up for parking brakes for a 2010 F150. I have searched it many different ways.
+Rob Brewer Thanks for checking us out! We currently do not have this part available however we do regularly receive new stock so check back soon! 1aauto.com
Thank you!
+John Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you for the illustration. However, i would have liked to view the entire process. Why skip the removal of the axle, when that part is equally significant, although, I understand. It wasn't the main focus of this vid. Thx
They did that on purpose because you need a magic wand to reinstall everything with the hub assembly still in place!
Should the my f-150 truck roll forward with e-brake on?
+steve billups Thanks for watching! Your truck should not roll if the emergency brake is engaged.
I have to replace the back plate on my f150 due to severe rust. The original plate is attached with 4 bolts and 2 rivets. What is the purpose of the rivets? Do I need to install new rivets? The bolts will hold the new plate in place.
I have a 12th gen. I just did my brakes and did not have the shudder thingy. Never seen it before on any of the Fords I have had. Weird never heard of such a thing
1 OF THE BEST VIDEO,S I,VE VIEWED ; PATRICK.P
+Patrick Peterman Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
It would seem the lower spring is incorrect. It's supposed to contact the teeth on the adjuster to keep it from rotating on its own.
thanks for the great video
This was a great video but you skipped the step as far as how do you get the wheel hub off!
What about a link to the parts ???????
thanks. nice
You didn’t install the spring at the top of the parking brake? The one that’s the biggest pain to do.
Aren't you supposed to not hang the caliper from the old line?
As soon as a Caliper was hung by the hose and an axle magically disappeared without explanation i clicked pause to type this. no sense in watching any further.
You’re loss
Not applicable to my 2012 F-150. Calipers and pads not same and parking brake mechanism is different.
I agree. I think this is 04-08.
Caliper should never be allowed to hang by rubber brake hose.
Since removing the axle was part of the process. It would have been nice if she would have showed what it entailed. Or at least spoke about it
+James Adams Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
nice🏅
Hey just wanna say I never put reviews never have the time but wanted to come back to the video and complement that it's amazing to see a women out in what most call a man's job and you explained it very well I got the brakes done much faster.
Thanks for the great video
Btw wire cutters are not what I use to put springs on it graves it good and if it dose cut your spring it was time to change it anyways noticed the comment below don't have to be a dick because a women had to one show you how to do this job.
Gŕeat job
Letting your caliper hang by the brake hose will damage it every timeAlways tied up with a wire or a bungee cord
+Swoop Thanks for the feedback!
I believe my brake rotors are stuck due to the parking brake shoes. Tried removing rotors got it loose but could tell something else was holding it
Shoes and rust in rotor parking break drum holding them . I ran in to this doing differential on my 2011 f150 restoration now I have to replace parking brakes and hardware
the Caliper Damper will just unscrew......from the bolt...
....and the axle is out just like that...
+P S Thanks for checking us out!
Great video!
Thanks for checking us out! 1aauto.com +A. C.
13:32 i didn't taka a picture, ,thankfully i can see how it goes back together here🤡
I've had my f-150 for probably 10 years and have never used the parking brake.
I would have replaced those dust shields while it was apart…
Those parking cables levers are like $4 from Ford, not sure why she wouldn't just replace them 🤔
+DapimpBDSD Thanks for the feedback!
hi, obviously owner doesn't use the e-brake and unless this is just an instructional video, i don't see the point of replacing it. great video though .. thanks
How the F”””” do you keep the lever together. Mine separates and falls apart everytime i try to start puttin it together. Please help me!!!!!
e-brakes suck they need to make a simpler system, these springs are nutty.
very good instruction video except getting dirty greasy gloves all over brake pads and shoes from handling poorly
+Jay P Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.