One of very few DMMs with dBm (0.775mV - 0dB) reading back then, so useful for people involved with audio signals. Ah, the top Brymens are dream come true for dB measurements, but $$$ 🥴.
Poor meter got the electric chair.. R.I.P. In older 25 and 27 they use three fuses, a 15A, a 3A and a little 630mA in series with the 3A. The little 630mA usually ruptures first (when in mA and uA) and saves the user from buying an expensive 1000v rated hrc fuse. The small ones are really cheap and you have a little place for a spare in the battery compartment, pretty thoughtful of them. Great info on the evolution of the amp protection setups, thank's for sharing!
Thank you for this video. My 40+ year old Fluke 77 display went bad and I was looking to repair it, but with your description of the old circuit design I think I will just buy a new one. I don't do that much electronics anymore being retired I might just go for a lower function model.
There are a lot of very good meters available today. Sounds like you were happy with the 77, so I don't think you will have any trouble finding something similar.
Очень толковый обзор. Очень компетентный обзорщик-испытатель. Очень хороший был прибор. Какой следующий на очереди? Предлагаю его положить в костер. Не надолго, секунд на 60. Потом протестировать.😢
Cool, extra tests. BTW, if you dont wont to give it away for parts, i think I may have a 77 parts unit in which a battery leaked but has a case if you want to save it as part of your test collection (I think I may have stolen that same said fusable resistor from it).
I still have 78 Automotive version of the meter. Not bad for limited general use, pretty tough sucker, but surely it would fail the test just like the 77 😢
Hey Joe, For the Uni-T UT139C if you slowly change the switch from uA to mA does your DVM reset and/or turn off... But if you move the switch at a normal speed it works okay? For me this only happens between these switch two positions.. (Obviously not counting the off position :) )
My Uni-T UT139C went haywire similar problem to you. It would only work in a few modes and keep resetting in other modes. I checked the switch and it looked okay and nothing looked damaged on the board. I never used it in a way where it should have gotten damage. I ended up buying a Brymen BM257s.
I feel better now. I had to replace that same resister (R2) on my 8024B that I bought for $5 at a Ham swap. Thanx for the vid.
One of very few DMMs with dBm (0.775mV - 0dB) reading back then, so useful for people involved with audio signals.
Ah, the top Brymens are dream come true for dB measurements, but $$$ 🥴.
Poor meter got the electric chair.. R.I.P. In older 25 and 27 they use three fuses, a 15A, a 3A and a little 630mA in series with the 3A. The little 630mA usually ruptures first (when in mA and uA) and saves the user from buying an expensive 1000v rated hrc fuse. The small ones are really cheap and you have a little place for a spare in the battery compartment, pretty thoughtful of them. Great info on the evolution of the amp protection setups, thank's for sharing!
You may be interested in the following: www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-77-fuse-bussman-ktk-15-counterfeit/msg3206008/#msg3206008
Thank you for this video. My 40+ year old Fluke 77 display went bad and I was looking to repair it, but with your description of the old circuit design I think I will just buy a new one. I don't do that much electronics anymore being retired I might just go for a lower function model.
There are a lot of very good meters available today. Sounds like you were happy with the 77, so I don't think you will have any trouble finding something similar.
Wow, only 3 hits with the grill starter.....🤨
Oh well.... thats still 2 more than on a Uni-T 😂 🤣
Thanks for fulfilling my request👍
It would have been nice if the meter would have survived but it's a pretty minimal design and we shouldn't expect much from Flukes early years.
Thanks for posting. It certainly auto ranges quickly.
Очень толковый обзор. Очень компетентный обзорщик-испытатель. Очень хороший был прибор. Какой следующий на очереди? Предлагаю его положить в костер. Не надолго, секунд на 60. Потом протестировать.😢
Cool, extra tests. BTW, if you dont wont to give it away for parts, i think I may have a 77 parts unit in which a battery leaked but has a case if you want to save it as part of your test collection (I think I may have stolen that same said fusable resistor from it).
Thank you very much for that offer but I don't think I will do anything more with it.
@@joesmith-je3tq No problems.
I still have 78 Automotive version of the meter. Not bad for limited general use, pretty tough sucker, but surely it would fail the test just like the 77 😢
Hey Joe, For the Uni-T UT139C if you slowly change the switch from uA to mA does your DVM reset and/or turn off... But if you move the switch at a normal speed it works okay?
For me this only happens between these switch two positions.. (Obviously not counting the off position :) )
The two that I had both were damaged during testing and recycled. I am not too surprised that you could find dead spots between selections.
My Uni-T UT139C went haywire similar problem to you. It would only work in a few modes and keep resetting in other modes. I checked the switch and it looked okay and nothing looked damaged on the board. I never used it in a way where it should have gotten damage. I ended up buying a Brymen BM257s.
К батарее прикоснулся 4:44 статика от руки через батарею по цепи питания вошла в чип.
Damaged?
if it ain't broke...don't fix it...