check out the ground strap made by Empi for VWs. Its a very nice copper braid and wont suffer from heat problems like your ofc wire and shrink tube. Jegs has a pretty nice version.
Have you seen dudes all billet small block with a billet big block cylinder head on Instagram yet? Freaking crazy. I've always loved your work, keep it up bro!
I have seen some of the versa blocks that have those big bores in them where they can bolt the big block cylinder heads to but the problem with those engines is they use GX 200 style architecture in the bottom and the problem with that is even the Billet Special alloy stroker cranks do not compete with the forces that a 95 mm piston puts on the crank The 1 inch journal even on the Billet Special alloy is not strong enough to support the top end of that engine so the crank becomes the weakest point I’ve heard from four people now that I’ve bought that engine that expressed that point to me. They sold that engine before even starting it just because of the inadequacies of the crank and its strength. Even a 3 inch bore stroker pushes that Billet Special alloy stroker crank to the max. That’s why I only use the special alloy. The billet standard stroker crank from a RC isn’t even great to use on a 3 inch a 72 mm stroker it’s fine but the 3 inch stroker cranks need a special alloy going above that is just asking for problems. They really needed to start using the big block Cranks in that engine to make it work and live a longer life
Honestly, any of these heads, you see with a bigger valve than a 32 mm is a dysfunction of performance. The entire port Hass to be tapered and you have to make the cross-section area bigger than the valve seat in order to properly design an intake port. The valve seat Hass to be the point of highest velocity so increasing the valve size beyond the potential for the cross-section area to increase is a dysfunctional modification. I know it sounds like a good idea but in port design, it’s bad.
They show no power gains up top where the engines make power. They have a steady timing so if they would have any advantage it’s on the absolute bottom end below 4k rpm but our dyno shows very low if any benefit in hp results
WOW, some serious hardware. Lots of milling, fitting and weldment. BRAVO MAN
Thanks man, yea tons of work went into this one. It’s got like everything but a kitchen sink in it. One of the best builds ever
check out the ground strap made by Empi for VWs. Its a very nice copper braid and wont suffer from heat problems like your ofc wire and shrink tube. Jegs has a pretty nice version.
Nice build. I run those Nibbi 30mm on my 224cc and a 212cc mini bikes. Great throttle response and top end power delivery at WOT.
Damn, that thing is gonna be a beast
Yea it is, was a ton of work and money but came out seriously over the top
Have you seen dudes all billet small block with a billet big block cylinder head on Instagram yet? Freaking crazy. I've always loved your work, keep it up bro!
I have seen some of the versa blocks that have those big bores in them where they can bolt the big block cylinder heads to but the problem with those engines is they use GX 200 style architecture in the bottom and the problem with that is even the Billet Special alloy stroker cranks do not compete with the forces that a 95 mm piston puts on the crank The 1 inch journal even on the Billet Special alloy is not strong enough to support the top end of that engine so the crank becomes the weakest point I’ve heard from four people now that I’ve bought that engine that expressed that point to me. They sold that engine before even starting it just because of the inadequacies of the crank and its strength. Even a 3 inch bore stroker pushes that Billet Special alloy stroker crank to the max. That’s why I only use the special alloy. The billet standard stroker crank from a RC isn’t even great to use on a 3 inch a 72 mm stroker it’s fine but the 3 inch stroker cranks need a special alloy going above that is just asking for problems. They really needed to start using the big block Cranks in that engine to make it work and live a longer life
Can I buy this engine an put on a mini bike with pull start and runs because if so how do I get ahold to buy one
Sweet.
Thanks a ton. Lots of love went in to this one
Start doing offset valve guides to fit bigger valves, will definitely need welding around the ports to hog them out more.
Honestly, any of these heads, you see with a bigger valve than a 32 mm is a dysfunction of performance. The entire port Hass to be tapered and you have to make the cross-section area bigger than the valve seat in order to properly design an intake port. The valve seat Hass to be the point of highest velocity so increasing the valve size beyond the potential for the cross-section area to increase is a dysfunctional modification. I know it sounds like a good idea but in port design, it’s bad.
Dam Paul.
You sound like a mafia school technical teacher 😂
How do you like those PVL coils. Worth the extra money or not much of an improvement?
They show no power gains up top where the engines make power. They have a steady timing so if they would have any advantage it’s on the absolute bottom end below 4k rpm but our dyno shows very low if any benefit in hp results
What type of power should a setup like this make?
18+ hp
Yea buddy think 25+ HP
This engine is probably running 30 hp it's only math.