Thank you so much for posting this, mixing mine tomorrow, I've sculpted a few elaborate things out of mesh wire and water bottles, I can't wait to get started.. I'm also making rocks to border my flower beds.. Again, thanks for posting.. :)
Great idea to make rocks for a border. Garden labels might be cool too. I might sculpt some small "rocks" and write the name of the plant on them with a white paint pen. It would be fun to see those water bottle mesh creations.
I really like your video. I'm going to try and make some plant pots and experiment making some sculptures of my my own very soon. I've subscribed to your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Cool! One correction - perlite is highly absorptive. Can hold many times it’s weight in water and is excellent for providing aeration in a mix and absorbing the water and nutrient solution to feed your plants if in potting mixes. In fact, if adding to mixes or planting in it at 50-100% it is recommended to soak the perlite in the solution (water or fertilizer solution) to prevent it from drawing the moisture from the root zone or other mix if combing with peat etc. See the Perlite Institute for information on this highly valuable product that is used in a number of industries and is a mined ore (rock) fired for expansion. It is also the same only difference is the screening for size unless formed into a product and has additives. It is and has been tested for saving on irrigation water useage and is found to save as much as 50% in water useage particularly in sandy soils where water can wash through as it holds on to the moisture. This feature is why if you make a hypertufa mix and let it sit for an hour or so, you may note it is dryer than where you started because the perlite has absorbed the water.
Excellent correction, appreciate that and will look at things a bit differently now! I just planted fruit trees in my backyard in raised beds and use perlite. I love the suggestion to enhance the perlite with fertilizer. The gears are turning on that one!
Hi! Lots of humidity and rain shouldn't be a problem. Hypertufa became popular in moist alpine regions as a substitute for heavy stone. I came across a botanical garden in Florida that partners with a cement company to create their own. I also lived in Panama downtown for two years and know what you mean about the rain. I would go outside at lunch and have to push to top of my jeep up with a broom to get the water off the top. One tip that I would offer you is to ensure they cure in the shade and stay moist during curing. If you let them dry too quickly, they'll lose strength and could crumble. Once cured properly, they should hold up for many years. Thanks for visiting!
funny coincidence!...The cost of cement has gone up so much here in the past few years, that everyone is looking for concrete/cement alternatives. Plus it's so damn heavy....anyway, I'm going to do some experimentation. Thanks again Dianne H.
Thank you so much for your tutorial; do you soak or spray your pots after they have cured to leach out lime before planting out or do you find this unnecessary? I find people give differing advice which can be confusing :)
I have made many of these in past years both for alpines and succulents and for use with more acid loving plants. I find a matt finish penetrating non toxic water based sealing (see my other comment) helps. I don’t use my containers for at least 6 months because I do them in mid-late summer late and then after initial curing being covered up for a month or more and then sitting through rain and snow uncovered, they aren’t used until spring so late July-March/April+ - (7-8 months). Sometimes I will pot them up with bulbs in late fall and then in spring use for alpines (or other plants that like higher ph and alkalinity) for several years before switching to more acid plants like ferns, hostas, very small azaleas, rhodies for bonsai, etc. However, with the penetrating sealer, I have been able to get a homemade buttermilk/yogurt/beer/molasses blended moss mixture started on outside of pots and growing decently beginning at 6 months but I really like a year because moss wants a ph at a max of 5. You can use ph strips to test a very damp pot or better soak the pot and let the water stand for 24 hours and check the water ph. Obviously you have to plug the drainage holes very well. It is why I like to drill holes later - it just depends on how I will be using. The next time I make some I want to make several and increase the peat content to a higher amount to see if that will offset the portland cement’s high ph., and see how far I can decrease cement. Will have to do several each way and treat the same to see what test results show on ph and strength. But truthfully, I haven’t had a big issue based on my timing and I never use more than 1 part cement for each recipe though it may be tripled etc depending on many pots or troughs I’m making. I hope that helps from someone else who has made them too.
can you please make some projects for fish tanks? will you be able to make anything similar to Texas Holey Rocks or Coral rocks using perlite concrete?
If you mean to put into a fish tank - the leaching of high ph high alkaline into the tank may seriously affect your fish and plants. If you do this test in empty setup for a number of months and follow ph levels. It is an issue with acid loving plants and I have difficulty getting moss to start on the pots for months and months. I don’t even start to do this until at least 6-8 months out after being uncovered and sitting from August/September to March/April. Moss likes 5.0 and below. And I test the ph of either damp pot with strips or fill the pot with water for 24 hours and test. If I do this a couple of times with longer soak times and it comes in below 7 or better below 6 then I will start painting my moss mixture and see how it goes. I have waited and done the mossing later as the moss is painted directly in contact with the pot unlike plants which have a buffer of potting mix and I can treat the soil. For missing, if the ph leachate is high - I just kill the moss the same as for your fish and plants. To test for decorative items, I would put them in distilled water or tap but you have to know your starting point which is why I like to start with as pure as I can though you still have to check pre ph You could take enough water from a good well balanced tank and soak completely submerged for the 24 hours and test. Hope this helps.
Also remember natural Texas Holyrocks are an actual stone and will dissolve calcium and magnesium very very slowly (you would have to test, again months) but those fake cement or concrete ones could dissolve much quicker not to mention the real rocks are dolomite limestone where cement is not. From the Portland Cement Association - “Cement is manufactured through a closely controlled chemical combination of calcium, silicon, aluminum, iron and other ingredients. Common materials used to manufacture cement include limestone, shells, and chalk or marl combined with shale, clay, slate, blast furnace slag, silica sand, and iron ore.“ I wouldn’t put in with my expensive fish or anything. Cement from different parts of the world could have even more contaminates. Tread carefully. Test for months ph and then use cheap fish of different types and plants to see how they grow and breed. Good luck.
+Susan Flaherty Hi Susan, hypertufa pots will last at least 10 years, maybe 20-30. People leave them out all winter. It is important to have drainage holes in the bottom so that standing water does not freeze inside the pot. Also, salt would accumulate in the bottom over time so don't forget to create holes before it cures! Hypertufa originates in alpine regions where the weather gets blistery, snowy, wet and cold. Once you get the soil and plants in the pots, they can get a bit heavy if large, so I wouldn't risk hurting your back taking them inside or on a porch to overwinter. Hope this helps! We are making more sculptures for a new school garden, not sure the subject yet - exciting!
Hi, sorry for the late reply - I moved to another state and donated my snail sculpture to the old school garden. No weatherproofing needed. This technique is popular (and originated) in alpine regions where they get frost, snow and weather extremes. Eventually the peat moss will degrade but the cement will remain leaving an aged look. If I were to stress one thing it would be to cure it long enough, keeping it moist in the shade. Your pot/sculpture will crumble if you do not bag it up and keep it moist for weeks to harden up. I learned this a long time ago. Some folks completely submerge their works in water to cure, e.g., a kiddie pool or pond. My next challenge will be to make some huge troughs with large cardboard boxes. For that, I need to add a few more ingredients to strengthen the mix. Good luck!
I used a matt non toxic water based penetrating sealer inside and out including the bottom twice - about 1 month in and a sometimes second one for good measure at about 6 months before their first use. If you find it is beading and not taking in water you may not need a second coat. I find sometimes the mix reacts differently. I find this also helps with lime leaching. You want to go to a concrete supply house and don’t be cheap - you want a water base non toxic no petro, lacquers, chemicals that are harmful etc. Tell them what you are using it on and it is for plants. To be sure, write the manufacturer by email and ask them and check the msds sheet. Some companies use the cheapest products just to make it work for a month or two. - follow the directions on whatever product you use. Proper prep and application is key in most products no matter the purpose - for these types of products pay attention to getting it clean and PH. Two green nontoxic brands I know of that can be purchased online are SafeCote who has several great products and also Green Building Supply’s brand. You will find these at green building product stores and possibly local. SafeCote is supposed to be doctor recommended for use and interior use and they have products for wood, asphalt, concrete. I wish I could remember what my guy used but it was at least 25 yrs ago and it was in a big drum plus he has passed on. He gave me a couple of gallons to use on all my hypertufa, concrete, and terra-cotta. We used what I had on my driveway and walks and in 25+ yrs, no cracks, spalling, no efflorescence, chalking, or dusting, nothing. Stayed pretty cleaned too for years though now it doesn’t bead as much or and it stains from crepe myrtle though after the winter it washes away. If you want to seal your concrete pond, make sure you pick the appropriate product. AProbably could use another coat...25+ yrs usn’t bad though. Neighbor whose guy didn’t dig down as much to get to subsoil, who didn’t backfill with appropriate gravel, didn’t use as much reinforcing wire, didn’t use wood 2x4 to separate sections into 6’x12’ sections all the way down to the ground to allow plenty of movement, nor covered and misted each day, and who actually set fans up so he could remove forms same day- they have twice had their drives concreted and one is on third but this time asphalt, the other put gravel in. Said my guy was too expensive. It is the same for neighbor who had a beautiful asphalt drive put in by a well known highly reputable company - it is still beautiful, except for cover/mist used same basic prep process, but does require yearly maintenance that mine doesn’t but is pretty against the grass. However, the smell of asphalt and the heat which will absolutely burn your foliage on shrubs and trees when being applied is awful. The other issue is when super hot, it will track.
Just the video I’ve been searching for. The one with the recipe and enough information to begin. Thank you so much. Janice
Thanks Janice! I may be creating more hypertufa soon. Hope all is well and appreciate the visit 3 years ago!
Wonderful, clear instructions - thx for sharing - cheers from Canada
Thank you so much for posting this, mixing mine tomorrow, I've sculpted a few elaborate things out of mesh wire and water bottles, I can't wait to get started.. I'm also making rocks to border my flower beds.. Again, thanks for posting.. :)
Great idea to make rocks for a border. Garden labels might be cool too. I might sculpt some small "rocks" and write the name of the plant on them with a white paint pen. It would be fun to see those water bottle mesh creations.
I really like your video. I'm going to try and make some plant pots and experiment making some sculptures of my my own very soon. I've subscribed to your channel. Thanks for sharing.
great videos! Glad I found them
Cool! One correction - perlite is highly absorptive. Can hold many times it’s weight in water and is excellent for providing aeration in a mix and absorbing the water and nutrient solution to feed your plants if in potting mixes. In fact, if adding to mixes or planting in it at 50-100% it is recommended to soak the perlite in the solution (water or fertilizer solution) to prevent it from drawing the moisture from the root zone or other mix if combing with peat etc. See the Perlite Institute for information on this highly valuable product that is used in a number of industries and is a mined ore (rock) fired for expansion. It is also the same only difference is the screening for size unless formed into a product and has additives. It is and has been tested for saving on irrigation water useage and is found to save as much as 50% in water useage particularly in sandy soils where water can wash through as it holds on to the moisture. This feature is why if you make a hypertufa mix and let it sit for an hour or so, you may note it is dryer than where you started because the perlite has absorbed the water.
Excellent correction, appreciate that and will look at things a bit differently now! I just planted fruit trees in my backyard in raised beds and use perlite. I love the suggestion to enhance the perlite with fertilizer. The gears are turning on that one!
Nice straightforward video without too much babbling. Thank you! One question , how does this stuff stand up to the rain? We get a lot here in Panama.
Hi! Lots of humidity and rain shouldn't be a problem. Hypertufa became popular in moist alpine regions as a substitute for heavy stone. I came across a botanical garden in Florida that partners with a cement company to create their own. I also lived in Panama downtown for two years and know what you mean about the rain. I would go outside at lunch and have to push to top of my jeep up with a broom to get the water off the top. One tip that I would offer you is to ensure they cure in the shade and stay moist during curing. If you let them dry too quickly, they'll lose strength and could crumble. Once cured properly, they should hold up for many years. Thanks for visiting!
funny coincidence!...The cost of cement has gone up so much here in the past few years, that everyone is looking for concrete/cement alternatives. Plus it's so damn heavy....anyway, I'm going to do some experimentation. Thanks again Dianne H.
Die Schnecke ist echt cool :-)
Slow the Text! Great info. Thanks for producing. I can't wait to get my hands dirty!
Thanks Mary for the suggestion to slow the text 4 years ago! I'm back to producing videos after a family member fell ill.
Thank you so much for your tutorial; do you soak or spray your pots after they have cured to leach out lime before planting out or do you find this unnecessary? I find people give differing advice which can be confusing :)
I have made many of these in past years both for alpines and succulents and for use with more acid loving plants. I find a matt finish penetrating non toxic water based sealing (see my other comment) helps. I don’t use my containers for at least 6 months because I do them in mid-late summer late and then after initial curing being covered up for a month or more and then sitting through rain and snow uncovered, they aren’t used until spring so late July-March/April+ - (7-8 months). Sometimes I will pot them up with bulbs in late fall and then in spring use for alpines (or other plants that like higher ph and alkalinity) for several years before switching to more acid plants like ferns, hostas, very small azaleas, rhodies for bonsai, etc. However, with the penetrating sealer, I have been able to get a homemade buttermilk/yogurt/beer/molasses blended moss mixture started on outside of pots and growing decently beginning at 6 months but I really like a year because moss wants a ph at a max of 5. You can use ph strips to test a very damp pot or better soak the pot and let the water stand for 24 hours and check the water ph. Obviously you have to plug the drainage holes very well. It is why I like to drill holes later - it just depends on how I will be using. The next time I make some I want to make several and increase the peat content to a higher amount to see if that will offset the portland cement’s high ph., and see how far I can decrease cement. Will have to do several each way and treat the same to see what test results show on ph and strength. But truthfully, I haven’t had a big issue based on my timing and I never use more than 1 part cement for each recipe though it may be tripled etc depending on many pots or troughs I’m making. I hope that helps from someone else who has made them too.
can you please make some projects for fish tanks? will you be able to make anything similar to Texas Holey Rocks or Coral rocks using perlite concrete?
If you mean to put into a fish tank - the leaching of high ph high alkaline into the tank may seriously affect your fish and plants. If you do this test in empty setup for a number of months and follow ph levels. It is an issue with acid loving plants and I have difficulty getting moss to start on the pots for months and months. I don’t even start to do this until at least 6-8 months out after being uncovered and sitting from August/September to March/April. Moss likes 5.0 and below. And I test the ph of either damp pot with strips or fill the pot with water for 24 hours and test. If I do this a couple of times with longer soak times and it comes in below 7 or better below 6 then I will start painting my moss mixture and see how it goes. I have waited and done the mossing later as the moss is painted directly in contact with the pot unlike plants which have a buffer of potting mix and I can treat the soil. For missing, if the ph leachate is high - I just kill the moss the same as for your fish and plants. To test for decorative items, I would put them in distilled water or tap but you have to know your starting point which is why I like to start with as pure as I can though you still have to check pre ph You could take enough water from a good well balanced tank and soak completely submerged for the 24 hours and test. Hope this helps.
Also remember natural Texas Holyrocks are an actual stone and will dissolve calcium and magnesium very very slowly (you would have to test, again months) but those fake cement or concrete ones could dissolve much quicker not to mention the real rocks are dolomite limestone where cement is not. From the Portland Cement Association - “Cement is manufactured through a closely controlled chemical combination of calcium, silicon, aluminum, iron and other ingredients. Common materials used to manufacture cement include limestone, shells, and chalk or marl combined with shale, clay, slate, blast furnace slag, silica sand, and iron ore.“
I wouldn’t put in with my expensive fish or anything. Cement from different parts of the world could have even more contaminates. Tread carefully. Test for months ph and then use cheap fish of different types and plants to see how they grow and breed. Good luck.
could you please let me now how long a pot would last outside....can it be left out during the winter months....
+Susan Flaherty Hi Susan, hypertufa pots will last at least 10 years, maybe 20-30. People leave them out all winter. It is important to have drainage holes in the bottom so that standing water does not freeze inside the pot. Also, salt would accumulate in the bottom over time so don't forget to create holes before it cures! Hypertufa originates in alpine regions where the weather gets blistery, snowy, wet and cold. Once you get the soil and plants in the pots, they can get a bit heavy if large, so I wouldn't risk hurting your back taking them inside or on a porch to overwinter. Hope this helps! We are making more sculptures for a new school garden, not sure the subject yet - exciting!
Thanks very much! You really do not weather proof these at all?
Hi, sorry for the late reply - I moved to another state and donated my snail sculpture to the old school garden. No weatherproofing needed. This technique is popular (and originated) in alpine regions where they get frost, snow and weather extremes. Eventually the peat moss will degrade but the cement will remain leaving an aged look. If I were to stress one thing it would be to cure it long enough, keeping it moist in the shade. Your pot/sculpture will crumble if you do not bag it up and keep it moist for weeks to harden up. I learned this a long time ago. Some folks completely submerge their works in water to cure, e.g., a kiddie pool or pond. My next challenge will be to make some huge troughs with large cardboard boxes. For that, I need to add a few more ingredients to strengthen the mix. Good luck!
I used a matt non toxic water based penetrating sealer inside and out including the bottom twice - about 1 month in and a sometimes second one for good measure at about 6 months before their first use. If you find it is beading and not taking in water you may not need a second coat. I find sometimes the mix reacts differently. I find this also helps with lime leaching. You want to go to a concrete supply house and don’t be cheap - you want a water base non toxic no petro, lacquers, chemicals that are harmful etc. Tell them what you are using it on and it is for plants. To be sure, write the manufacturer by email and ask them and check the msds sheet. Some companies use the cheapest products just to make it work for a month or two. - follow the directions on whatever product you use. Proper prep and application is key in most products no matter the purpose - for these types of products pay attention to getting it clean and PH. Two green nontoxic brands I know of that can be purchased online are SafeCote who has several great products and also Green Building Supply’s brand. You will find these at green building product stores and possibly local. SafeCote is supposed to be doctor recommended for use and interior use and they have products for wood, asphalt, concrete. I wish I could remember what my guy used but it was at least 25 yrs ago and it was in a big drum plus he has passed on. He gave me a couple of gallons to use on all my hypertufa, concrete, and terra-cotta. We used what I had on my driveway and walks and in 25+ yrs, no cracks, spalling, no efflorescence, chalking, or dusting, nothing. Stayed pretty cleaned too for years though now it doesn’t bead as much or and it stains from crepe myrtle though after the winter it washes away. If you want to seal your concrete pond, make sure you pick the appropriate product. AProbably could use another coat...25+ yrs usn’t bad though. Neighbor whose guy didn’t dig down as much to get to subsoil, who didn’t backfill with appropriate gravel, didn’t use as much reinforcing wire, didn’t use wood 2x4 to separate sections into 6’x12’ sections all the way down to the ground to allow plenty of movement, nor covered and misted each day, and who actually set fans up so he could remove forms same day- they have twice had their drives concreted and one is on third but this time asphalt, the other put gravel in. Said my guy was too expensive. It is the same for neighbor who had a beautiful asphalt drive put in by a well known highly reputable company - it is still beautiful, except for cover/mist used same basic prep process, but does require yearly maintenance that mine doesn’t but is pretty against the grass. However, the smell of asphalt and the heat which will absolutely burn your foliage on shrubs and trees when being applied is awful. The other issue is when super hot, it will track.
are you supposed to keep it moist for 3 weeks while its curing?
yes! otherwise it dries too quickly. some people totally submerge their creations in water. That would have been impossible for me.
3rd