Great video. Got me noodling on how I'll approach my project. I am considering dollar tree pool noodles to hold up the sides. Will dry test before adding the hypertufa mix. Thank you
Use beach sand as the inside mold I do it all the time it helps hold the hypertufa sides! You take the sand out when it is cured. Many times, I line the inside with a garbage bag or plastic wrap than add the sand. Thank you for your video the hypertufa pots are so addictive and fun to make.
Have you thought of using sand to help hold up the inside? You could lay down another piece of plastic over it and then put in your sand and press it down to hold up the sides. You could even lay a flat board on top if you got it up to the height of your hypertufa. You might also be able to use the sand to make your walls thinner and the pot higher. Just my two cents worth and if you use it I hope it helps. I love your Channel and thank you for the ideas!
Yes, thanks for the watch. In my blog post I explained about not having enough sand to fill this "cavern" which is a method I typically use. But sure didn't have enough. Since it's 40 gal tub and I had it half-ish full, I would have needed maybe a good 15-20 gallons of sand and just didn't have enough. But we improvised and got a planter out of it. ( I will probably start stockpiling sand...for the future. LOL)
I just read one of your responses re the weight of your tub. I wonder if using perlite wiuld have made it lighter. Vermiculite holds water as perlite does not.
perhaps a water filled bladder would work greak for an insert in one of your irregular molds...however if you get the water to dry just right you do not need any insert...as evidenced by my giant tall planters of 55 gal capacity
I make 55 gallon tall light wieght concrete planter pots....I use a hammer drill and a large concrete mixing bit....I love giant pots....very pretty. funnily to build up the sides,,,I hand pound..it works...I use a rubber mallet when hands get numb...I also make an irregular (marble effect)using while portland cement as first layer against the liner before building up thicker with cheaper regular cement combination.. I put the lid on my 55 gal black feed container ...very durable $59.00 tub...and let it sit for a couple of days then lay on the side, pull out the drum plastic insert..to get it started then stand it up and it pops right out:).55 gal can liner 3mil...yup it works great...Id love to send you photos of finished product...after it dries out throughaly, I add dried moss to some of the grooves made by the plastic...these are magnificent. Unfortunately difficult to sell because...of the wieght and possibility of crackign during shipping so I sell them locally for around 400 each.
I would be interested in seeing pictures if you have any! I also want to make big containers and not just small ones as I want to pot bigger plants and not just succulents
Also if your adding cement to already half curred or curred cement....use diluted elmers glue to the mix or even concrete additive which is more money but works the same
Did you wet the 'old' cement bottom prior to building the sides? From the other videos I've seen with cement, etc, it has to be wet or the old and new won't bond. Another question: Do you ever add about 1/2 to 3/4 of the water you should need to mix it and then tweak it once it's thoroughly mixed? I'm thinking that if I approach it that way, it will mix easier and I'll be able to still have a drier mix that will hold its shape easier. What do you think?
I don't remember wetting it, but it was not a long period of time for the 2nd level. I do think too much water was added in this mix and that caused more trouble than I needed.
I couldn't give you an amount since that is all relative to your mix, dryness of peat moss and humidity. But for this huge one I used a lot of water, just add it and mix until you get the right fudgey mixture. You can always add more, but can't take away.
Hi, have you thought about using different sized blue wading pools by any chance? Also, if you have any successful large planters, could you send me those links please. Have you considered using pond tubs? Maybe there are some that may fit in each other nicely. Do you think it might be possible to incorporate layers of chicken wire, in order to keep large tuffas walls from caving in while still wet? Can tuffa be laid in half thicknesses, let stiffen & then build up to its interior girth by using chicken wire layered in between? How about using refrigerator cardboard as a frame within a frame held together with large aluminum nails that are used with aluminum rain gutters. The nails are used to keep gutters from bowing out with weight. Oh, on the large form planter form from H..l, maybe you could use heavy duty black lanscape edging together with chicken wire. Maybe if you could build a light weight wood frame for the inside, instead of loose pieces, that are more difficult to manage. Old corugated fencing could do the trick too, just make sure to interface it with plastic or cardboard so the mix doesn't stick to the metal. Please let me know what you think & send me links of videos. Happy mud slinging😀🌱🥀 Emily
I usually make up a lot more than I think I need and have more molds in wait for the excess. If no excess, then I am still good. I made a small printable for SOLID pumpkins estimating the amounts needed. Perhaps that would give you an idea of amounts for a hollow pot. Here's the link. www.thehypertufagardener.com/how-to-make-hypertufa-pumpkins/
I'm thinking of making a bird bath about the same size, but with sides only about 3-4" high, and then the center might only be about 1 1/2" to 2" thick. I'm planning to have two pedestals under it. I was thinking 3 pieces of rebar run lengthwise might be good to keep it stable horizontally. Do you think the hardware fabric would be better at it? Since it would be supported on only two pedestals, my concern is the middle, which I don't want to sag at all.
No, I don't think we filmed that. Since that was rubber/vinyl mold, it just fell out when we turned it over (after removing the inner props.) No problem at all to remove. Just horribly heavy. I was afraid someone would break a bone. Just tipped and dropped. Took two men.
Yes, that is true. But as I answered in several of these comments, I didn't have a couple hundred pounds of sand at that moment. If I had thought of that ahead of time, I might have had my son or son-in-law go buy some and bring it down the hill and into the basement for me. But at that point, I had to make do. No more big tufas anymore for me. 🙄
Hi Kim and friends and family. I'm sorry that it didn't work out ok on the big planter, I'm sorry to say that you have to make a box mold . Why because my hypertufa mold is 24 in. H 24 in.L 24 in W. I have to use chicken wire over the box (mold) to make it the hypertufa light and use less. Soon will send you a picture.
Thanks so much. I have made them in box molds several times, but wanted to use this watering trough for this one. But I wasn't thrilled with the way it turned out. Back to boxes!
I would not try to cure it then add more later. I don't think it would hold up very well. I have added more just a few hours (maybe 90-120 minutes) later when I had to mix more to finish, but usually in a 24 hr period, it is as hard as stone and would be difficult to get more to "attach" itself. But you could try and something small to see how it works?
Great video. Got me noodling on how I'll approach my project. I am considering dollar tree pool noodles to hold up the sides. Will dry test before adding the hypertufa mix. Thank you
dont really need them, but they would work!!
The better your consistency in the mix, the "sludge", the easier it will hold up on its own. Too much liquid is a problem. Too dry and it won't last.
Use beach sand as the inside mold I do it all the time it helps hold the hypertufa sides! You take the sand out when it is cured. Many times, I line the inside with a garbage bag or plastic wrap than add the sand. Thank you for your video the hypertufa pots are so addictive and fun to make.
That would be a great use for the beach sand. But where I live I don't have it here in Ohio. You all who have the beach are so lucky!
I had a giant one made - I am sure it is 10 years old - and more beautiful each year - love it
Have you thought of using sand to help hold up the inside? You could lay down another piece of plastic over it and then put in your sand and press it down to hold up the sides. You could even lay a flat board on top if you got it up to the height of your hypertufa. You might also be able to use the sand to make your walls thinner and the pot higher. Just my two cents worth and if you use it I hope it helps. I love your Channel and thank you for the ideas!
Yes, thanks for the watch. In my blog post I explained about not having enough sand to fill this "cavern" which is a method I typically use. But sure didn't have enough. Since it's 40 gal tub and I had it half-ish full, I would have needed maybe a good 15-20 gallons of sand and just didn't have enough. But we improvised and got a planter out of it. ( I will probably start stockpiling sand...for the future. LOL)
Maybe a few pieces of metal or just wire fencing inside
I just read one of your responses re the weight of your tub. I wonder if using perlite wiuld have made it lighter. Vermiculite holds water as perlite does not.
perhaps a water filled bladder would work greak for an insert in one of your irregular molds...however if you get the water to dry just right you do not need any insert...as evidenced by my giant tall planters of 55 gal capacity
That's an option, alright.
I make 55 gallon tall light wieght concrete planter pots....I use a hammer drill and a large concrete mixing bit....I love giant pots....very pretty. funnily to build up the sides,,,I hand pound..it works...I use a rubber mallet when hands get numb...I also make an irregular (marble effect)using while portland cement as first layer against the liner before building up thicker with cheaper regular cement combination.. I put the lid on my 55 gal black feed container ...very durable $59.00 tub...and let it sit for a couple of days then lay on the side, pull out the drum plastic insert..to get it started then stand it up and it pops right out:).55 gal can liner 3mil...yup it works great...Id love to send you photos of finished product...after it dries out throughaly, I add dried moss to some of the grooves made by the plastic...these are magnificent. Unfortunately difficult to sell because...of the wieght and possibility of crackign during shipping so I sell them locally for around 400 each.
Now that's a huge planter.
I would be interested in seeing pictures if you have any! I also want to make big containers and not just small ones as I want to pot bigger plants and not just succulents
I’d love to know what your giant planter weighed!!
Good job thanks for tutorial ,
Also if your adding cement to already half curred or curred cement....use diluted elmers glue to the mix or even concrete additive which is more money but works the same
I have added it but to the mix, not cured. Maybe not understanding what you mean.
Did you wet the 'old' cement bottom prior to building the sides? From the other videos I've seen with cement, etc, it has to be wet or the old and new won't bond. Another question: Do you ever add about 1/2 to 3/4 of the water you should need to mix it and then tweak it once it's thoroughly mixed? I'm thinking that if I approach it that way, it will mix easier and I'll be able to still have a drier mix that will hold its shape easier. What do you think?
I don't remember wetting it, but it was not a long period of time for the 2nd level. I do think too much water was added in this mix and that caused more trouble than I needed.
Given your dry mixtures that used ,what would you say the correct amount of water you should have used in litres.
I couldn't give you an amount since that is all relative to your mix, dryness of peat moss and humidity. But for this huge one I used a lot of water, just add it and mix until you get the right fudgey mixture. You can always add more, but can't take away.
Add plasticiser and less water. Turned my mix into clay.
I don't think I want to have clay. But great idea.
Hi, have you thought about using different sized blue wading pools by any chance? Also, if you have any successful large planters, could you send me those links please. Have you considered using pond tubs? Maybe there are some that may fit in each other nicely. Do you think it might be possible to incorporate layers of chicken wire, in order to keep large tuffas walls from caving in while still wet? Can tuffa be laid in half thicknesses, let stiffen & then build up to its interior girth by using chicken wire layered in between? How about using refrigerator cardboard as a frame within a frame held together with large aluminum nails that are used with aluminum rain gutters. The nails are used to keep gutters from bowing out with weight. Oh, on the large form planter form from H..l, maybe you could use heavy duty black lanscape edging together with chicken wire. Maybe if you could build a light weight wood frame for the inside, instead of loose pieces, that are more difficult to manage. Old corugated fencing could do the trick too, just make sure to interface it with plastic or cardboard so the mix doesn't stick to the metal. Please let me know what you think & send me links of videos. Happy mud slinging😀🌱🥀
Emily
please explain what is "leaching" ?
How do you work out how much ingredients to make a large tall pot nobody seems to give a rough estimate can anyone give some kind of info plz Ty 😊
I usually make up a lot more than I think I need and have more molds in wait for the excess. If no excess, then I am still good. I made a small printable for SOLID pumpkins estimating the amounts needed. Perhaps that would give you an idea of amounts for a hollow pot. Here's the link. www.thehypertufagardener.com/how-to-make-hypertufa-pumpkins/
I'm thinking of making a bird bath about the same size, but with sides only about 3-4" high, and then the center might only be about 1 1/2" to 2" thick. I'm planning to have two pedestals under it. I was thinking 3 pieces of rebar run lengthwise might be good to keep it stable horizontally. Do you think the hardware fabric would be better at it? Since it would be supported on only two pedestals, my concern is the middle, which I don't want to sag at all.
I think the hardware cloth would be great for support. Double it if you feel necessary. I think that would be great.
Put a bag of sand inside and it will mould to the shape
Is there a video of the. Unmoulding?
No, I don't think we filmed that. Since that was rubber/vinyl mold, it just fell out when we turned it over (after removing the inner props.) No problem at all to remove. Just horribly heavy. I was afraid someone would break a bone. Just tipped and dropped. Took two men.
Is there a hole on the bottom for drainage.
Yes, we put in several for one this size. If I remember, it was 6 in sets of two, End, end, middle.
Maybe a bladder of water. Like a large garbage bag!?!
could you not turn the mold over and mold it from the outside. like a turtle shell?
That is possible and some people do that. But I just never liked doing it that way. Easier to wrap inside. But whatever works is best for you.
I thought the hupwrtufa was foam so now I’m done and good . Thanks for the lessons ! 🫥
Happy to help!
You could have packed it with sand.😂😂
Yes, that is true. But as I answered in several of these comments, I didn't have a couple hundred pounds of sand at that moment. If I had thought of that ahead of time, I might have had my son or son-in-law go buy some and bring it down the hill and into the basement for me. But at that point, I had to make do. No more big tufas anymore for me. 🙄
Hi Kim and friends and family. I'm sorry that it didn't work out ok on the big planter, I'm sorry to say that you have to make a box mold .
Why because my hypertufa mold is 24 in. H 24 in.L 24 in W. I have to use chicken wire over the box (mold) to make it the hypertufa light and use less.
Soon will send you a picture.
Thanks so much. I have made them in box molds several times, but wanted to use this watering trough for this one. But I wasn't thrilled with the way it turned out. Back to boxes!
3:40 why you gotta be so violent ? 😂
no comprender ?
Should have left out the plastic,and sat it down in a large pile of sand supported by a frame
I haven't done a Hypertufa before. Is one able to let it cure for a day or two and then continue to build up the walls with a new mixture?
I would not try to cure it then add more later. I don't think it would hold up very well. I have added more just a few hours (maybe 90-120 minutes) later when I had to mix more to finish, but usually in a 24 hr period, it is as hard as stone and would be difficult to get more to "attach" itself. But you could try and something small to see how it works?
@@KimsGardensandHome thank you!
2:18
?