As a mechanic myself, my best advise I can give u, don’t pull up on the breaker bar. Flip it over to the other side and step on it to break it free. Your back will thank u when u get older. Work smart not hard 😉
I must say, not many channels as small as you guys put out content as absolutely amazing as you do! Definitely top notch work, informative and really helpful and inspiring for me
@@MuddyBeards4X4 yeah great content. I enjoyed the videos I've checked out. This is what I do also. Build, brake repeat. Build, brake repeat. I just finished a S10 and she been pulling its own weight for around 3 or 4 months now, haven't even made my front drive shaft yet, running through trials and error with the seat time I get Testing an tuneing the bugs and kinks out of everything now. Long was to go before I call it worthy though. But that's how it always been there's always something breaking till you get it right. Any project vehicle will seam to never be finished no matter how much you do to it. LoL, they ain't never done
You don’t need to worry about the Pinion breaking unless you go 4.88 gears or swap the motor. I’ve never seen a 4.56 or lower pinion issue on a 30 with even up to 40’ tires. Even in low pinion 30’s. The carrier will break before then if still running a factory carrier. I’ve seen 20-30 broken carriers in lunchbox locked 30’s from 33-40” tires. The hp thirty really only has a few downsides.. pinion size at 4.88 gearing is super small so limited gear choices for big tires, second super weak factory carrier (easily fixed with a full carrier Locker or torsion limited slip. Lot of people look over the true tracs but with a little break pressure they will perform just like a locker with much better in road performance) thin wall tubes (easily fixed with even the cheapest crappiest trusses) That’s is it.. yeah the hubs wear fast and the breaking power is limited, and you have to replace ball joints yearly as well.. but dollar for dollar pound for pound it’s a very underrated axle. The ground clearance is second to none so makes the need for tires over 35 almost irrelevant. 8.8 swap or 44 swap the rear and call it done. For sooo many years axle snobs said 60’s min front and rear. I’m glad in the last 3-5 years a lot of people have gone back to 1/2 ton axles and slightly smaller tires realizing they can get same results. You’re not gonna build a rock bouncer in a 30 but you can build one hell of a nice weekend warrior that will still get you to work on Monday. I’ve driven a Jeep to work on Monday in front wheel drive more times then I’d like. The issue has never been the 30 it’s the 35 you have to address then beef up the 30 to handle whatever you replace the 35 with. That said.. even with the super 35 I once ran only time I ever hade issues were bending shafts from snatching out bigger stuck vehicles. Bent one one time and replaced the shaft thinking the bearing could wait a few more weeks till I felt like replacing it.. don’t ever do that.. if you bend a shaft you destroyed the bearing driving it home. Bearing heated the shaft enough to loosen the lugs and lost a tire at 70mph lol. Cost me a lot of money in repairs for a $10 bearing and 30min more time. Lucky for me it had just rained a lot and the standing water in the median stopped me from crossing into oncoming traffic. All that said.. you have to carry spares with a 30 even with a grande kit. I’ve never once wheeled wo a full set of ready to go fronts with hubs attached so I could swap them in less then 10min on a trail off needed. I will say though even when I ran 39.5” on a thirty years ago.. I never break even a joint.. I used only sliver 760 joints and replaced them regularly while also monitoring the caps for backing out. 760’s don’t break in a thirty they come apart and when they come apart they destroy everything else. I still carry around factory WJ CV spares as they are super cheap compared to factory jointed shafts.. but I still have a pair that is as of now 15ish years old and being carried in my third Jeep that is the first one not daily driven and a true trail only rig.. I’ve swapped out a lot of rears over the years and builds but I’ve never hesitated to keep the 30 except when I was thinking of throwing a 14b in the rear of my last tj. I’d have gone hp60 from a SD for sure then cause I’d be running 46” tires just to get my clearance back lol
I used to run a 91 YJ Dana 30 on my S10 before I did my Y linked 10 and 14 bolt. But. I set it up with 97 Dodge Dakota leaf springs in the front SOA equipped 35x12.50 / R15 / 15x10... I did something crazy to the 91 D30. I deleted the CAD on the passenger side axle. Stripped the dirty30 completely naked, not the passenger side inner diff seal out but left the driver side in... went to the junkyard and found a 97 jeep XJ with a Dana 30.. got the passenger side axle shaft out and replaced the 91 D30 pass side axle shaft. Because it was a two piece axle shaft on the passenger side, that engaged four-wheel drive there a locking collar operated off a vacuum.. before I did the axle shaft swap, I ordered a special passenger side differential oil seal that would fit with the one piece axle swap.. put everything back together and kept the d30 open on 488s.. blocked off the CAD's location on the axle tube with a steel plate bolted on with the 4 bolts and black RTV. , Astro van steering box because I needed, because the S10 pitman arm faces the rear of the truck. But the Astro van steering box face the front, it was a direct bolt-on to my original steering box location on the frame. But I beat and I abused it, never gave me problems however two years later I completely change the truck...
I had the Yukon with super joints in my 60 I never broke them but I never greased them in fact I left the zerks out therefore the trunions got a little tired so when I went to replace those super joints...lol... I found out they are 50% of the cost of a complete new Yukon axle set . I decided to try out a set of RCV simply for the strength in any steering direction and if they break they won't rip up my knuckle like u jointed yoke ...But you can't beat Yukon gear axle shafts they are good quality and by comparison to say drive homes they are cheap
Hello. This is something i need to do as well. I swapped in a HP30 out of a 99 XJ, into my 2001. Did gear's and Vanco big brake kit and Durango M/C. Brakes are great. Only gonna stick to Swamper SSR 33's for awhile. I'm running a Metal Cloak lift. My coils rub/clunk on the top C. I noticed your's did to and it seem's you clearanced it quite a bit. Are you worryed about a weaker upper C now ?
I actually have added material to the outer c's, not taken away. I welded on the artec c gussets for the vary reason that the c's are weak and can bend
I installed a set of chromoly shafts for my xj a few weeks ago. At the time I didn't know about the full circle snap rings on the ujoints so I used the c-clip style. Have you ever had any issues with the c-clips walking out or would full circle be recommended? Love the vids too man great job.
Yes. I've had several 3/4 clips walk out & then spit the caps out, ruining my yoke ears. I finally figured it out & installed new u joints with full circle clips. It's a pain to hog out the ears for the full clips. All you need to do is tack weld the caps on. Done.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 good I used to wheel XJ's and MJ's. I have owned 16 of them. I love them wheeled them for 20 years. In the end I gave up on the stock housings and used 4 door wagoneer axles. Glad to hear you have that unibody tied up. A cage helps big time as well.
I was thinking the same thing. Hopefully it's just cause that's what the u-joints came with. That'd be a deal breaker for me if it wasn't machined for full clips.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I agree with that. I was referring to the u joints breaking before the ring and pinion. They are a "weak" point by design, because they are easier to change and less expensive.
FYI on amazon right now they are selling these for just $370 right now $300 below market. Everyone else is still selling them full price but speed something seller is selling the full kit with disconnect cover and seals if needed for just $370 mine arrived today and I was worried it was miss labeled and just going to be passenger complete.. but it’s the whole kit.. if you’re looking to get one of these do it right now!
Muddy Beards 4X4 gotcha I’ve been running on 35’s for 5 years on a built 30 with a Yukon lunch box locker with no issue and I’ve thinking about going to bigger tires.
👍. Just a heads up though. They do not come with the fill circle clips. At least mine didn't. I have just run the c clip style that came with it so far with no issues
Stock shafts can take more of a shock load than chromolys. Stock shafts will twist before they break, chromolys take more force to get to that failure point tho. Personally I'd rather twist a shaft than shatter one. Either way the u joint will fail before the shaft ever will in a dana 30. Now enters RCV's made from 300m steal a little bit of both worlds they arent has hard as chromoly so they can take the shock loading better, and added bonus no u-joint binding, easily serviced with a grease fitting at the end of the outer shaft, and lifetime no question asked warranty.
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
![30 ชั่วโมงคนเดียว บนรถไฟชั้น 3 โซเวียต [Around The World Ep. 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MlE9boAVqDA/mqdefault.jpg)
As a mechanic myself, my best advise I can give u, don’t pull up on the breaker bar. Flip it over to the other side and step on it to break it free. Your back will thank u when u get older. Work smart not hard 😉
I must say, not many channels as small as you guys put out content as absolutely amazing as you do! Definitely top notch work, informative and really helpful and inspiring for me
Wow man thanks a lot. We are having lots of fun making videos and appreciate your compliment. 🤘
@@MuddyBeards4X4 yeah great content. I enjoyed the videos I've checked out. This is what I do also. Build, brake repeat. Build, brake repeat. I just finished a S10 and she been pulling its own weight for around 3 or 4 months now, haven't even made my front drive shaft yet, running through trials and error with the seat time I get Testing an tuneing the bugs and kinks out of everything now. Long was to go before I call it worthy though. But that's how it always been there's always something breaking till you get it right. Any project vehicle will seam to never be finished no matter how much you do to it. LoL, they ain't never done
I know how to build a Dana 30. Just checking out way you make the video really, your channel seems to be doing really good 👍
You don’t need to worry about the Pinion breaking unless you go 4.88 gears or swap the motor. I’ve never seen a 4.56 or lower pinion issue on a 30 with even up to 40’ tires. Even in low pinion 30’s. The carrier will break before then if still running a factory carrier. I’ve seen 20-30 broken carriers in lunchbox locked 30’s from 33-40” tires. The hp thirty really only has a few downsides.. pinion size at 4.88 gearing is super small so limited gear choices for big tires, second super weak factory carrier (easily fixed with a full carrier Locker or torsion limited slip. Lot of people look over the true tracs but with a little break pressure they will perform just like a locker with much better in road performance) thin wall tubes (easily fixed with even the cheapest crappiest trusses)
That’s is it.. yeah the hubs wear fast and the breaking power is limited, and you have to replace ball joints yearly as well.. but dollar for dollar pound for pound it’s a very underrated axle. The ground clearance is second to none so makes the need for tires over 35 almost irrelevant. 8.8 swap or 44 swap the rear and call it done. For sooo many years axle snobs said 60’s min front and rear. I’m glad in the last 3-5 years a lot of people have gone back to 1/2 ton axles and slightly smaller tires realizing they can get same results. You’re not gonna build a rock bouncer in a 30 but you can build one hell of a nice weekend warrior that will still get you to work on Monday.
I’ve driven a Jeep to work on Monday in front wheel drive more times then I’d like. The issue has never been the 30 it’s the 35 you have to address then beef up the 30 to handle whatever you replace the 35 with. That said.. even with the super 35 I once ran only time I ever hade issues were bending shafts from snatching out bigger stuck vehicles. Bent one one time and replaced the shaft thinking the bearing could wait a few more weeks till I felt like replacing it.. don’t ever do that.. if you bend a shaft you destroyed the bearing driving it home. Bearing heated the shaft enough to loosen the lugs and lost a tire at 70mph lol. Cost me a lot of money in repairs for a $10 bearing and 30min more time. Lucky for me it had just rained a lot and the standing water in the median stopped me from crossing into oncoming traffic.
All that said.. you have to carry spares with a 30 even with a grande kit. I’ve never once wheeled wo a full set of ready to go fronts with hubs attached so I could swap them in less then 10min on a trail off needed. I will say though even when I ran 39.5” on a thirty years ago.. I never break even a joint.. I used only sliver 760 joints and replaced them regularly while also monitoring the caps for backing out. 760’s don’t break in a thirty they come apart and when they come apart they destroy everything else. I still carry around factory WJ CV spares as they are super cheap compared to factory jointed shafts.. but I still have a pair that is as of now 15ish years old and being carried in my third Jeep that is the first one not daily driven and a true trail only rig..
I’ve swapped out a lot of rears over the years and builds but I’ve never hesitated to keep the 30 except when I was thinking of throwing a 14b in the rear of my last tj. I’d have gone hp60 from a SD for sure then cause I’d be running 46” tires just to get my clearance back lol
You can also put the u-joint and shafts in the vise and squeeze them together instead of hammering on them. Great job keep it up
Ya I have done that before too
I used to run a 91 YJ Dana 30 on my S10 before I did my Y linked 10 and 14 bolt. But. I set it up with 97 Dodge Dakota leaf springs in the front SOA equipped 35x12.50 / R15 / 15x10... I did something crazy to the 91 D30. I deleted the CAD on the passenger side axle. Stripped the dirty30 completely naked, not the passenger side inner diff seal out but left the driver side in... went to the junkyard and found a 97 jeep XJ with a Dana 30.. got the passenger side axle shaft out and replaced the 91 D30 pass side axle shaft. Because it was a two piece axle shaft on the passenger side, that engaged four-wheel drive there a locking collar operated off a vacuum.. before I did the axle shaft swap, I ordered a special passenger side differential oil seal that would fit with the one piece axle swap.. put everything back together and kept the d30 open on 488s.. blocked off the CAD's location on the axle tube with a steel plate bolted on with the 4 bolts and black
RTV. , Astro van steering box because I needed, because the S10 pitman arm faces the rear of the truck. But the Astro van steering box face the front, it was a direct bolt-on to my original steering box location on the frame. But I beat and I abused it, never gave me problems however two years later I completely change the truck...
I have had these same shafts in my XJ for a year now. I got them on prime day for $340!
Hell ya I just got them on prime day this year
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Just curious, how much were they?
$360. About the same
You should have used full circle snap rings not those c clips those will end up spinning out and youll lose a ujoint cap and break a shaft
Sweet upgrade. I copied your trackbar video for my own setup. Wanna say thanks for the idea. The steering is so different now.
Right on man.
Why didnt you keep the stock shafts for trail spares?
Ha I am. I promptly fished it out the trash lol
@@MuddyBeards4X4 😂😂😂 I would have done the same
I had the Yukon with super joints in my 60 I never broke them but I never greased them in fact I left the zerks out therefore the trunions got a little tired so when I went to replace those super joints...lol... I found out they are 50% of the cost of a complete new Yukon axle set . I decided to try out a set of RCV simply for the strength in any steering direction and if they break they won't rip up my knuckle like u jointed yoke ...But you can't beat Yukon gear axle shafts they are good quality and by comparison to say drive homes they are cheap
That's good to hear
Claw hammer. Smh
Hello. This is something i need to do as well. I swapped in a HP30 out of a 99 XJ, into my 2001. Did gear's and Vanco big brake kit and Durango M/C. Brakes are great. Only gonna stick to Swamper SSR 33's for awhile. I'm running a Metal Cloak lift. My coils rub/clunk on the top C. I noticed your's did to and it seem's you clearanced it quite a bit. Are you worryed about a weaker upper C now ?
I actually have added material to the outer c's, not taken away. I welded on the artec c gussets for the vary reason that the c's are weak and can bend
I'm putting new hub on. Since I'm right here, should I do the shafts? My xj is a 2000 with 240,000 miles. Would it be worth it or noticeable?
So did you ever break the r&p? Or the shafts? How did it hold up
I no longer run the dana 30, but everything held up with no issues
I installed a set of chromoly shafts for my xj a few weeks ago. At the time I didn't know about the full circle snap rings on the ujoints so I used the c-clip style. Have you ever had any issues with the c-clips walking out or would full circle be recommended? Love the vids too man great job.
The Spicer u joints are designed to have the circle clips. If that the type you have, yes I would definitely put them in
Yes. I've had several 3/4 clips walk out & then spit the caps out, ruining my yoke ears. I finally figured it out & installed new u joints with full circle clips.
It's a pain to hog out the ears for the full clips. All you need to do is tack weld the caps on. Done.
4:04 get an impact lol
Edit: Sorry, my back was hurting for you
I’d recommend to clear coat those. I think I have the same ones and they start to rust real quick
Hmmm good suggestion
And it’s just surface rust not hurting anything but it looks like crap
Thank you I'm buying theese for sure best damn deal period but did wonder about that so thanks🙏
Strongest shafts ever! No that would RCV. But good video.
Haha I know.
I figured you would. I hope you read some sarcasm in there.
Do you have any unibody stiffeners on there yet?
Oh ya understood. And yes I have custom made mid and fronts. No rears yet
@@MuddyBeards4X4 good I used to wheel XJ's and MJ's. I have owned 16 of them. I love them wheeled them for 20 years. In the end I gave up on the stock housings and used 4 door wagoneer axles. Glad to hear you have that unibody tied up. A cage helps big time as well.
I always thought all chromoly shafts used full circle clips for the ujoints. Are this shafts just not machined for it?
I was thinking the same thing. Hopefully it's just cause that's what the u-joints came with. That'd be a deal breaker for me if it wasn't machined for full clips.
I need your old ones for my ZJ, especially if it had the ABS ring.
I think the u joints would still be the weak link in your setup.
U joints do still go bad. Although changing them out regularly should help with that
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I agree with that.
I was referring to the u joints breaking before the ring and pinion. They are a "weak" point by design, because they are easier to change and less expensive.
FYI on amazon right now they are selling these for just $370 right now $300 below market. Everyone else is still selling them full price but speed something seller is selling the full kit with disconnect cover and seals if needed for just $370 mine arrived today and I was worried it was miss labeled and just going to be passenger complete.. but it’s the whole kit.. if you’re looking to get one of these do it right now!
noticed you didn't swap the tone rings for your ABS. Any particular reason? Just wondering...
My abs hasn't worked in a long time. When I swapped knuckles all that got removed.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Figured it was something like that.
If i put those shafts on my jeep xj with a 6 inch lift can i run 35s or should i be worried
That's basically what I was running for two years rock crawling and never had any issues
Which brakes are you running in that d30?
It's a wj knuckle swap. So just factory grand cherokee stuff
Or put them out for a metal recycler
Do you have a part number for the kit?
ZA W24110
What size are those tsl’s
Older Dana 30?? The one with axle disconnect?
Yes
What were the spacers u use behind the rotor on the hub
It's to space out the rotor to center the brake caliper on a wj swap
@@MuddyBeards4X4 never see that one before I the spacer I have seen used on the front side of the knuckles welded on it
Will them axles work in my jeep grand cherokee wj ? I have the dana 30
NO, you will need to space out the unit bearing out 1/4.
Do some research on WJ knuckle swap.
@@coolHandLuke5150 ty for the answer so fast .
I was going to say the WJ is set up a bit different, so no I dont think these are interchangeable
These will not work on a WJ. They have a wider axle than the XJ, TJ, ZJ & MJ.
Are you running 36s on your jeep?
Yep. 36 14.50 tsl's
Muddy Beards 4X4 how long have you been running them on the Dana 30?
Been about 2 years. Maybe 20 wheeling trips
Muddy Beards 4X4 gotcha I’ve been running on 35’s for 5 years on a built 30 with a Yukon lunch box locker with no issue and I’ve thinking about going to bigger tires.
So are they still holding up ?
Yep.
Awesome Amazon has a hell of a deal right now on them for 367 dollars for all the shafts and ujoints
That's the deal I got. Pretty sweet price for chromo
Yea can't beat that at all. Well thanks for the quick response man . Love the videos. Keep up the good work
👍. Just a heads up though. They do not come with the fill circle clips. At least mine didn't. I have just run the c clip style that came with it so far with no issues
Do you have a link to buy these same shafts?
Check the link in the video description
I followed your link in description, could not find them. did I just not look hard enough?
Too bad Stock Shafts are stronger than any Aftermarket Chomoly shafts
What's makes you say that. Chromoly is a far stronger material then carbon steel
Stock shafts can take more of a shock load than chromolys. Stock shafts will twist before they break, chromolys take more force to get to that failure point tho. Personally I'd rather twist a shaft than shatter one. Either way the u joint will fail before the shaft ever will in a dana 30. Now enters RCV's made from 300m steal a little bit of both worlds they arent has hard as chromoly so they can take the shock loading better, and added bonus no u-joint binding, easily serviced with a grease fitting at the end of the outer shaft, and lifetime no question asked warranty.
Ya but that price tag....
@@MuddyBeards4X4 you just have to wait for holidays got mine for 900$
Insane price on those RCV
Standard Gear's website sucks
/