Good video. I need to do this to my B7 A4 2.0t. Last summer I clean the intake valves, replace thermostat, oil filter housing, timing chain and tensioner and also the coolant flange on back of engine. Lot of work but saved a ton of money.
You had to let go of the oil and the transfer box after emptying the gearbox of oil. You had about 0.9 liters left. This is located behind the gearbox, before the cardan shaft. Then you filled them with oil on the same gearbox filler hole. But it's ok and like that, you refreshed the oil. Success!!!
Really? I didn't even know that. Always learning. Thanks brother. I actually drain and filled twice when I tried 2 different fluids so hopefully it's all fresh. Still doesn't like it when it's cold.
@@reluaurel8077 I've had it about a year and half. And it's almost 300,000 km's. On it. But when it's cold out 1 to 2 shift is notch unless I slide it across to 5-6 and back in to 2nd it's smooth. The 20 year tech in me is thinking detent springs something isn't lining up when cold I donno
i have a quattro automatic transmission, would the front fluid change be the same? also the front differential and the transmission share the same fluid?
Now that it’s a bit colder, what do you have to report back on the 1st/2nd notchiness in the extreme cold? I got redline 70w90 that I’m going to put in, and I live in Colorado where winters can be below zero. Current starts around 15 degrees it’s sometimes impossible to get into those gears without going through others first, part of why I’m having a go at replacing this. Thanks!
I'm going to be honest. It's better but I'm starting to come the realization that these transmissions just need time to warm up before they are happy. But I am wondering if the cold affects some detent springs on the transmission that aid in the engagement part of me feels like it's not grinding in gear it's more of a fork engagement of the gear. When I drop the transmission I'm going to look at it. As I remember older bmws having issues with the spring and ball dents getting weak and causing harsh shifts when cold. But I haven't found any online solutions for vw/audi of this generation.
Your transmission would be mounted differently of course but same premise. Pop the fill plug, pop the drain plug. Then once it's done draining. Tighten up drain plug with new gasket. And start filling the fill plug until it starts pouring out. Once it's just a small dribble. Then tighten up fill plug with new gasket and enjoy
Hello sir Thanks for the video. I look up for an B6 1.9 Quattro and the first thing i would change is the diiferential fluid but i dont understand 1thing... What timing for interval? Is the same of haldex or it's more long? Sorry for my english. Regards :)
Differential fluid varies at Honda it was every 40,00kms. Some vw audi say lifetime, bmw says lifetime its all about you. For me every 5 years or some refresh fluids
I change the Audi engine oil often and didn't even know this manual transmission oil existed! Don't you have to run the car in gear for 5 min & recheck the oil level?
Why not use GL4+ Liqui-Moly? It is manual transmission/diff fluid and many have reported poor cold weather results with Redline MTF on the B7 forums. I think you should reconsider using the same fluid you put into your diff into the transmission. I am about to do this on my B7 3.2 A4 6mt I can report back after.
I had that in there for 2 months. I did more research. Ill admit when warm redline is beautiful but neither are good in cold. If you read more about it. Redline and oem are the only approved fluids. I may go the 1200 ATF route. But the fact its a diff/ gear box has me worried. People swear by it ib old zf 5 spd on bmw for cold shifting
@@Cooperdaleit I say that's the best option. If I were to change it again I would just pay the extra cost and use all oem fluid. Although driving the Avant steady everyday since March. My morning notchyness or cold weather is gone. I will report in the fall when the temperature drops we are having 20+ agree mornings here. Hard to gauge cold temp shifting.
@@MyHomeGarage I will make a video about it once I complete the service. I just did a drain/fill on the rear diff with Liqui Moly GL4+/GL5 fluid and all seems well. -Austin
GL5 is corrosive to Synchros so that's why they make a straight GL4 spec. I have been doing this for years and always had a manual. It won't hurt right away but just using the correct fluid right away eliminates any worries and future problems caused by the fluid. No need to experiment unless it's a beater or junker car maybe. I have personally had problems with the wrong fluid when I was younger before I went to Automotive Tech School back in the early 2000s.
Nice video man. Straight forward. The b7's are getting older and there arent alot of turorials out there. Thank you!
Good video. I need to do this to my B7 A4 2.0t. Last summer I clean the intake valves, replace thermostat, oil filter housing, timing chain and tensioner and also the coolant flange on back of engine. Lot of work but saved a ton of money.
Yeah i inspected the chain tensioner and chain both look.good and they had been replaced. but the cam bolt is stripped so i put that on hold for now.
youre the first person i seen do a real tutorial on this thank you so much dude
Haha. Your welcome
@@MyHomeGarage please post more b7 maintainence lol
Example? What do you want to see? I can only do what it needs.
You had to let go of the oil and the transfer box after emptying the gearbox of oil. You had about 0.9 liters left. This is located behind the gearbox, before the cardan shaft. Then you filled them with oil on the same gearbox filler hole. But it's ok and like that, you refreshed the oil. Success!!!
Really? I didn't even know that. Always learning. Thanks brother. I actually drain and filled twice when I tried 2 different fluids so hopefully it's all fresh. Still doesn't like it when it's cold.
@@MyHomeGarage I use MOTUL 75w80 and it work perfect all year. Yes is fresh, don`t worry .Good luck!!
@@reluaurel8077 I've had it about a year and half. And it's almost 300,000 km's. On it. But when it's cold out 1 to 2 shift is notch unless I slide it across to 5-6 and back in to 2nd it's smooth. The 20 year tech in me is thinking detent springs something isn't lining up when cold I donno
Good video! Are the drain plug and fill plug location the same on the A4 b6 1.8T Sedan ?
Not sure
i have a quattro automatic transmission, would the front fluid change be the same? also the front differential and the transmission share the same fluid?
Now that it’s a bit colder, what do you have to report back on the 1st/2nd notchiness in the extreme cold? I got redline 70w90 that I’m going to put in, and I live in Colorado where winters can be below zero. Current starts around 15 degrees it’s sometimes impossible to get into those gears without going through others first, part of why I’m having a go at replacing this. Thanks!
I'm going to be honest. It's better but I'm starting to come the realization that these transmissions just need time to warm up before they are happy. But I am wondering if the cold affects some detent springs on the transmission that aid in the engagement part of me feels like it's not grinding in gear it's more of a fork engagement of the gear. When I drop the transmission I'm going to look at it. As I remember older bmws having issues with the spring and ball dents getting weak and causing harsh shifts when cold. But I haven't found any online solutions for vw/audi of this generation.
I have the same thing between 1 and 2 gear untill it warms up a little bit
Great video. I’m looking to do the same on my B7, just wondering if you’ve noticed any difference from changing the fluid?
Yes. But from the research ive done. Using GL4+GL5 it cab have negative long term effects on gear box like wear on gears.
Thanks for the vid! I have a 6spd front-wheel drive B7, so for that just follow the steps in first part of video?
Your transmission would be mounted differently of course but same premise. Pop the fill plug, pop the drain plug. Then once it's done draining. Tighten up drain plug with new gasket. And start filling the fill plug until it starts pouring out. Once it's just a small dribble. Then tighten up fill plug with new gasket and enjoy
Hello sir
Thanks for the video. I look up for an B6 1.9 Quattro and the first thing i would change is the diiferential fluid but i dont understand 1thing... What timing for interval? Is the same of haldex or it's more long?
Sorry for my english.
Regards :)
Differential fluid varies at Honda it was every 40,00kms. Some vw audi say lifetime, bmw says lifetime its all about you. For me every 5 years or some refresh fluids
@@MyHomeGarage ty man for help. The process is the same on B6? Capacity = 1.5l?
@@brunosantos6191 I'm not 100% but amsoil n liqui moly other sites have capacity numbers for all cars and fluids. Good references there.
I change the Audi engine oil often and didn't even know this manual transmission oil existed! Don't you have to run the car in gear for 5 min & recheck the oil level?
On a manual transmission? No
@@MyHomeGarage what do you mean by no? Just fill it till over flows and leave it?
@@jerryx2000 manual transmission is filled till it pours out n dripps. Just like the video
@@MyHomeGarage that's some good news. Thanks for your support
Any procedure involving running the car in gear is for automatic gearboxes. For manuals, it’s as simple as draining and filling.
Why not use GL4+ Liqui-Moly? It is manual transmission/diff fluid and many have reported poor cold weather results with Redline MTF on the B7 forums. I think you should reconsider using the same fluid you put into your diff into the transmission. I am about to do this on my B7 3.2 A4 6mt I can report back after.
I had that in there for 2 months. I did more research. Ill admit when warm redline is beautiful but neither are good in cold. If you read more about it. Redline and oem are the only approved fluids. I may go the 1200 ATF route. But the fact its a diff/ gear box has me worried. People swear by it ib old zf 5 spd on bmw for cold shifting
@@MyHomeGarage I’ve decided to go with OEM Audi fluid. Too much conflicting info!
@@Cooperdaleit I say that's the best option. If I were to change it again I would just pay the extra cost and use all oem fluid. Although driving the Avant steady everyday since March. My morning notchyness or cold weather is gone. I will report in the fall when the temperature drops we are having 20+ agree mornings here. Hard to gauge cold temp shifting.
@@MyHomeGarage I will make a video about it once I complete the service. I just did a drain/fill on the rear diff with Liqui Moly GL4+/GL5 fluid and all seems well. -Austin
GL5 is corrosive to Synchros so that's why they make a straight GL4 spec. I have been doing this for years and always had a manual. It won't hurt right away but just using the correct fluid right away eliminates any worries and future problems caused by the fluid. No need to experiment unless it's a beater or junker car maybe. I have personally had problems with the wrong fluid when I was younger before I went to Automotive Tech School back in the early 2000s.
Rear differential sûre 1.5 litres ?!
You won't use it all
@@MyHomeGarage but how much it takes with oil ?
@@yassinmak3743 keep filling till I starts coming out. Whatever I said in the video. I can't remember exactly check amsoil oil guide.