Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Was incredibly informative for me. Especially the break away cable. Been doing it wrong. I’m more informed because of you. Thanks again!
Best video covering this topic. As a truck driver I assumed this would be cake but I see it’s more complicated than I thought lol. glad I came across this video super informative !
Good video and I enjoyed watching it. I've sure had some tremendous success with the Shock-Straps. I use them exclusively. I also like to anchor front center (of my bumper) to the trailer corner. On the rear, I go for the hitch where there are 2 triangular holes (one of each side) then to the corner of the rear of the trailer. By doing it this way, you have that X and you are at the frame eliminating the suspension from riding the straps. Another trick that works better than I ever thought it would for your excess strap. Fold the excess back against the strap and use a binder clip (paper clip) to secure it. I tried this 4 years ago and I'm still using the original binder clip and it is very easy to do.
Great video. Lots of good info. Longer comment - I work with a volunteer organization, we travel all over the country responding to disasters. We move a large Bobcat, an enclosed tool trailer and a towable manlift. It amazes me how little men who have been towing trailers for decades understand - balancing the load, hitch height, twisting safety chains (bad), tiedowns, trailer brakes, etc. This is the way they learned it, so no reason to consider learning anything else. BTW twisting chains compromises the chain. Please use a hanger, even if its bailing wire to keep the chain off the ground. Excellent job explaining everything.
Thank you. I never thought that twisting the chains was an issue but it makes sense. Easy enough to use bailing wire, that’s a great idea I hadn’t thought of. I appreciate it and I’ll do that in the future.
Well thought out tutorial on trailering. I might add not to overlook your tire pressures in your readiness checklist. Also, if you're approaching your weight limit for your trailer, consider the tongue weight (ideally 10-15% of total weight) can be added back to your trailer weight, since the tongue weight is being borne by the tow vehicle. For instance, if your trailer weighs 2500 pounds and you've loaded your 4500 pound UTV onto your 7000 pound-capacity trailer, your tongue weight may be 1000 pounds or so. The trailer is actually carrying only 6000 pounds, thus you actually have 1000 pounds more capacity to haul.
Excellent point! I don’t think I mentioned tire pressure, I check it before every major trip and it’s important for safety and gas mileage. I didn’t realize that about tongue weight, that does make sense. Thanks for the comment!
Hey man, best side by side hauling video I've seen. Great job! Only thing I do different is i strap at the wheels that way zero compression on the suspension. But the way you tied looks great with just a little suspension compression. If i ever had to tie above whhels id do as your example. Thanks again
Good video. I have a pioneer 1000-5 that i pull on a steel dual axle. I installed Firestone airbags on the rear of my tundra. After I'm loaded up, I put a small level on the front of my trailer and make adjustments to my airbags to fine tune the levelness of the load.. I adjust slightly higher to compensate for the natural rear end dip of your truck suspension while under power.
Thanks. I’ve thought about airbags especially given the weight we generally haul in the bed when we go on long trips too. Occasionally if I put the machine a little too far forward I do notice a little more bounce in the rear when we go over bumps. I bet it makes the towing smoother.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily The airbags make a big difference. I find they even help out with the stability. Used to tow a 32ft. camper.,30lbs of pressure was all that was needed. Keep the videos coming,as I and others enjoy your content a great deal. May you and your family be safe on all of your travels.
Best way to strap to the trailer is with tire bonnets/tire straps. Never go above the suspension because it loads and unloads to makes things come lose and it's not good for the components. Also weigh your setup at a scale to know the weight. Use a HD home scale under the front trailer arm go figure out where to tie it down by moving the utv back and forth for that 12% tongue weight.
Yeah I’ve seen some people really compress the suspension when strapping things down. I agree I don’t think that’s the best method, things start bouncing and now you have slack followed by sudden tension - not good for the straps either.
Just a thought...in addition to wanting to keep equipment from moving front to rear on the trailer, one must also keep it from moving side to side. Attaching a ratchet strap almost straight back to the rock sliders provides zero side to side retention. A much better place for the from ratchet straps is to the from push bar/ bumper to the trailer tie down loops. Use the double loop straps through the bumper and attach the ratchet strap to them. This will give you a diagonal tie down angle which will prevent movement in two directions. Nice looking General and trailer. I happen to use a tandem axle car hauler for my General and also for my Kubota tractor. Not that I wouldn't want an enclosed trailer...
I appreciate your comment! And I think it’s a fair argument. The downside one downside I could see with that is if you break a strap or one loosens and you don’t notice, you’re now potentially pulling your load laterally / unevenly in one direction. I’ve heard the argument both ways, I can’t find data to back one or the other, both have some logic behind them. At the end of the day, my own opinion is I don’t think matters a whole lot - at least based on the load I’m hauling. Vehicles experience far less lateral Gs than front to back…. I think at the point where it might make a difference, my truck is going to be on it’s side anyways. So… I think that’s a totally valid technique you describe. I’m actually really interested in this and I’d love to see some testing or data behind it! You’d think the giant equipment haulers would look at this 🤷♂️ Thanks for your take on it. Good thoughts and I appreciate it! 🤙🏼
Very informative video! I have a 36’ enclosed gooseneck trailer that I use for transporting two Polaris rangers and a sportsman. The ATV needs to be turned 90 degrees on the back but it fits. E-track in the walls and floor securely keep everything in place.
Thanks for sharing, a lot of useful information. I am a little nervous though about using the rock sliders as my anchor point, I would think that you could find something on the frame that would be a little more secure. I thank you for the tip on the trailer brake. I was not aware of how the emergency brake worked so that was very useful and how you set your gain as well was very useful. I don't have a sxs yet, I am thinking about ordering a General XP4 1000 possibly this weekend, they are saying about 3-4 months out, I'm not too concerned about losing out on the riding season as I have moved to Arizona from California and in both states, you pretty much have an all-year riding season. Again, very useful information!
Glad it was helpful! It sounds like you made a good move! I bet 75% of the trailers I see hooked up people have their e brake cables setup in a way it won’t do anything if the trailer comes unhitched. That switch is supposed to brake away from the box and I guess most people don’t realize that. Since I made this video I generally use the rear hitch now on the back side - it’s just faster but I still secure to the rock sliders up front. They are mounted on there solidly with big bolts and it’s actually kind of hard to find a solid place on the frame that is easy to reach. Hope you enjoy your new home. It sounds like there is plenty of great riding in AZ!
Great video with lots of important information, thank you.. if I am being picky, the only info missing would be.. when towing your machine do you put it in park, neutral or in gear ? I think that is also a very important information to share
Great question. I would not put it in gear. But I believe park or neutral would be good choices. I have no doubt if towing in Park was actually bad, Polaris would put a warning sticker on the shifter. I also don’t see anything in the manual about not towing in park. That said, it shouldn’t make a difference if you have the machine strapped down properly.
You’re welcome! Glad the video was useful. I didn’t know myself for the longest time, had hooked them up where they would have been totally ineffective previously.
The way you do your straps the machine can still shift left to right, you need side tension as well as front to back, your straps should form a X when looking at their imaginary lines of intersection. Just a FYI, do as you wish.
Good information. Thank you. I’m not new to trailering, but wasn’t really taught how to trailer our off road vehicles. Just got a new Polaris Northstar so it’s heavier than our old Ranger, so I was wondering if I should get a tandem axel or use the one we have. Strapping was also good information. I need new straps anyway, so this was good information at a perfect time. I need to do more research with the manufacturer of the trailer since it’s a 2007.
You won’t regret getting a tandem axle. Well worth the cost especially for a heavier machine. Only thing I’d really say is I’ve gone away from twisting the chains because it could put for stress on them if they pull taught suddenly and bind up. I just use a simple zip tie now to take up the slack. It’s funny because people get pretty heated and opinionated about some of these things but no one ever has data to back it up. Glad you found the video helpful!!
Really great video without over complicating the process. I really like the clips on the rachet strap hooks, I've had my share of hooks come undone on long rough roads. On the small loose wires &/or cables, I use velcro extension cord keepers. Thank you for sharing a great video.
Thanks! Often the simplest approach is the best. People can be very particular about this stuff but if the machine is tight and doesn’t move, and the load is balanced, you should be good to go!
🏆🏆🏆👍🇺🇲🙏 Make sure your anchors are bolted to the frame of the trailer, I've seen them rip free when just attached to the floor boards with screws or bolts. And, your battery that locks your trailer brakes in an emergency, must be kept charged, as it sits over time, so it will be able to supply the voltage needed to activate the trailer brakes. Thank you for sharing
I put a reinforcement plate on the backside of the anchors so it’s distributed across a bunch of boards. Theres no good place to attach the the frame back there unfortunately :( The one thing I don’t like about this trailer is it just doesn’t have a lot of convenient attachment points. I actually didn’t think of that with the emergency brakes but yeah, really great point. When we bought the trailer as we were pulling it out of the lot, the brake box actually shorted out and they had to replace the thing right there. Thanks Dr Mark!!!!
Hi TNF: Would it be possible for you to take a video of the underside of the trailer and show it? Or just describe it? I'm planning to start making trailers like that and was wondering about the construction. Seems like the axels are mounted directly to the main deck frame (I'm guessing this is to make it sit lower) but there is no extra bracing where the axels are tied to the deck frame? If that were a single axle trailer it would be a massive weak spot for material fatique - but since you have 2 axels I guess it won't be as critical? Would appreciate an answer from you or others that know how the trailer is braced / stiffened under the deck?
Appreciate the video, do you notice any wind drag from the ramp sitting upright when towing. Im narrowing down my choices but Im having trouble finding a bifold ramp as my last item on my wish list. Just not sure if its worth holding out for. Thanks
Yeah, there is definitely some drag but when the machine is on it, I don’t think it matters. If I don’t have a machine on it and I’m going for a farther drive (rare), I’ll lay the ramp all the way forward flat on the deck and throw a strap across it. I don’t regret buying this trailer one bit.
I never had a need for trailer brakes even though my van is equipped with a brake controller. Now I know how to set it up should I have the need to use traier brakes (from U-Haul maybe). Another thing to take into consideraton is state laws on trailering. In my state,
make sure to not only check the trailer brake lights, but also the running lights of the trailer. I have that problem right now, brake lights and directionals work, but no running lights.
Are you happy you bought a tandem I’m in the market for a new trailer I could get by with a single axle and have for a few years. My concern is I go long distance black hills, Colorado,Tennessee…. I just always think tandems handle better.
Absolutely!!! Tandem is the way to go, I'm really glad I went this route. Well worth the extra money especially if you are towing longer distances at interstate speeds. It bounces less, sways correct faster. Behind my Tundra I almost forget this thing is there (aside from having to stop at every gas station I pass lol)
I really didn’t worry about it them getting wet. You gotta be dry them off when you arrive but everything in there can get wet. Now I just keep my windshield on while trailering and I put a cover on the windshield to protect it from rock chips. That keeps the inside plenty dry.
Former Jeep Overlanders here, and first time SxS’ers. Just came here to say that I appreciate your channel and the content that you and your family are putting out. I binged watched your channel while anxiously waiting for our (first) General XP4 1000 to arrive. You’ve got me sold on your trailer choice. Thanks and keep the content coming!
There is nothing wrong with securing to your lower control arms front and rear. Also around the wheels is even better, that allows your suspension to move while trailering.
I think the wheels is a very good option too. I’d love some day to see someone actually test everything and have some data with pros/cons. I’d wager we’re all over thinking it 🤷♂️
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily we probably are overthinking it but on a vehicle the rule of thumb is never secure to a place that can move. The side can move with the suspension and it puts extra unneeded stress on your tie downs. Wheels and lower A arms as close to the hubs as possible solves that problem.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamilyI don’t have data but I tie down my tires and never have broken a tie down point. My friend tied his above the suspension and ripped one of his d-ring to shreds.
Nice vidio. Love the adventures your family takes. I am not an expert but your A arms should be a good tie down location. Using all 4 corners is great a d required in many states. Make sure of stap capacity should be able to carry half the total loD at each corner. You should tie down to the strongest part of the suspension, not the chasis. Secured to the chassis is not good as the suspension will load and unload at bumps. If you use the suspension. There will be np shock loading on the tiedows. I never cross my tiedowns. If one of corner straps fail then load will shift to the side, I do also like to add some angle to the straps so there is side stability. Tow truck driver do these things on their roll off beds. Good info on all of the other vid. Keep up the good work
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily The heavy lower a-arm are the best. Some folks strap trough the wheel and tire if the opening in the wheels are large enough to pass the strap through. The wheel is still part of the suspension when tied down like this. Check a few of the official sites for UTV sales and service they have lots of good informative vids about this subject.
It doesn’t! The emergency brake that is activated by the cable if the trailer comes off the hitch will still work however. Another option for trailer brakes is “surge brakes” which don’t require a trailer braking system in the truck. Those just work off the momentum of the trailer itself, and they generally work pretty good.
I wasn't sure either originally from Michigan. In Michigan every trailer has to be plated. I understand in Wisconsin the trailer less than 3000 pounds doesn't have to be plated etc. I recently bought a polaris ranger ultimate in Michigan but I'm a Wisconsin resident. The big tex trailer I bought is 77 by 14 long. My trailer title shows the shipping weight 1400 and G V.W.R up to 6000 pounds. My concern is the total weight hauling it down the road if it has to be registered and plated considering the total weight polaris/trailer over 3000 pounds. I'll make a trip to the dmv in Madison Wisconsin with my trailer title and registered it. Take it from there.
16’ - the important thing with the e brake is the cable pulls tight and activates the brake before the chains pull tight. You can do they a variety of ways but too often people have the e brake cable longer than their chains. That’s a problem.
@TheNorthwoodsFamily thank you! Was wondering how my general would look on a 16 haha! Yes you are absolutely correct on the safety cable great video btw
Thanks! Its 16’ long and I believe 6.5’ wide. I’ll confirm tomorrow when I get back to it tomorrow. We’re on the last night of an overland trip tonight.
With respect, if you have to stop and tighten your straps after 10 miles on a routine basis then something is wrong with your approach. Yes, you absolutely should check the load, etc. but they should not loosen as you drive.
Yes I agree - they shouldn’t be loosening repeatedly and definitely not getting very loose. Most of it is the soft loops we use - they tend to cinch down tighter after a few miles - it’s almost impossible to pull them as tight as they can get with a 2,000 lb machine pulling on them. We usually need to give each ratchet a couple clicks after a little bit on the road and then it’s good the rest of the trip.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily I confess that I didn’t watch the whole video earlier because of the strap method. However, you gave us great info on that emergency brake cable and adjusting the “gain” of the trailer brakes. Imagine having a full cord of oak in a trailer behind a 3/4 ton pickup and forgetting to boost the trailer brakes… I only did that once.
Single axle trailer? I suppose that would mean the axle strength is the limiting factor of the trailer…. The weakest link in the chain so to speak. Probably not uncommon actually. GAWR = Gross axle weight rating.
Nice video except you don't have your machine strapped side to side. So in an emergency maneuver, there is nothing preventing your machine from turning over. Front to back is not sufficient. I'd strongly recommend adding straps that hold it side to side.
So let’s say I swerve right, when I correct the swerve, weight transfers to the right side. So you’re saying the left side of the machine will lift off the deck and roll off my trailer? How are the straps on my left side of the machine going to allow the left side to lift off the deck? The simply can’t unless they break The straps have a fixed length when they are locked in. One strap cannot shift its angle off the deck, or even laterally, because there are three other straps that are also locked at a fixed distance. For the left rear strap to pivot to the right, the only way for that to happen is for the machine to shift backwards too. The front straps will not allow that to happen. And vice versa. I’m not saying other techniques (x pattern, using the wheels, etc) doesn’t work equally well. But not a single person who has commented on this video has shown any evidence or reasoning behind their argument. It’s all anecdotal. I’ve looked for tests and haven’t seen them. If you know of one please share, genuinely I’d like to see. Not trying to be rude, we can agree to disagree but I don’t see how what you’re saying will happen is geometrically possible without multiple straps breaking.
Would you expect it to be more or less? I’ve never weighed it on a scale, but the manufacturer’s website says “curb weight” for this specific model is 1487 lbs. The certificate of origin gives a “shipping weight” of 1480 lbs. Next time I take a load of junk to the dump I’ll ask them if I can weigh it quick.
Do not strap it down the way he shows here. It is the same as strapping it to the body or above the suspension. You want to strap it through the wheels, over the tires and wheels with a strap or better yet a tire bonnet. He mentions that his straps keeps loosening. That is because he is strapping it to the nerf bars and that whole body is bouncing up and down with the suspension and loosing them.His way is not good and unsafe. If you can not strap it over the tires and wheels or through the wheels, then attach on the an arms closest to the wheels as possible. Keep the wheels forced to the trailer and let the rig bounce with the suspension without a strap the body.
Appreciate your opinion but it is not unsafe. Truckers strap cars, trucks and heavy machinery down to the frame all the time. The straps loosen this was because the loops slip into position and tighten up after a few miles. I stop after a couple miles, click them a few more times and they stay tight all the way across the country. I’ve have trailered this machine thousands of miles across the country many times and they never loosen. Your way of strapping the machine down over the wheels works great too. The problem with that, and why I don’t do it, is because it limits where you can put your machine on the trailer. Depending on what we are carrying I will need to move my machine forward or back on the trailer to fit other gear or balance the weight.
Do not tie down there in Kentucky state police or d o t sees this you get a ticket for un sacerded load has to be tied to the frame front and rear nit your rock slide.
I'm no expert, but it seems you're going to wear down your trailer brakes very quickly...They're meant to stop only the trailer weight, but you set yours to do most of the braking for your tow vehicle as well...They should only tug slightly on the tow vehicle when braking
You are right in the sense that the trailer brakes should be slowing the trailer. However, I respectfully disagree with the rest. The bias sets the proportion or relation of the trailer brakes to the vehicle brakes. In the video I am just testing the bias setting. I am applying 0% braking power to my truck, but 100% power to my trailer when testing the bias. Once set, and I apply my truck brakes, the trailer brakes are automatically applied in proportion to how hard I am applying the truck brakes. The truck brakes slow the truck down (and the trailer a little too). The trailer brakes slow the trailer down. They work together. The harder I brake the truck, the harder the trailer brakes are applied. In an emergency braking situation, when your truck activates ABS, you want your trailer brakes at their threshold (max braking power) without locking up. If they are set too light, you're extending your braking distance. Plus, the trailer could try to "pass" the tow vehicle and come around on you which is even worse. Likewise, you can have the same problem if the trailer brakes lock up too soon. There is a little wiggle room. I've been driving and if it feels like when I release the brakes the vehicle jolts forward, then I back off the bias a bit. But in most conditions, setting them this way gets me really close. And at the end of the day, even if I have to replace my shoes every few years (4,000 miles and they look brand new), I'd rather do that and maximize the braking abilities of my rig. Brakes are meant to be used, and I set mine to give me the maximum ability to stop in an emergency.
😂 show me the proof! Everyone is so set that the only way to do it is the way they do it, but NEVER can back it up. Ever see a semi strap a front end loader down by the tires? Nope. Strapping by tires on a UTV works great. So do many other ways. The load needs to be secured so it doesn’t shift. Both methods accomplish that.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily I’m glad to send you the pics of when I flipped the trailer, repaired the roof, and pawned it off on some day laborers. Hey, ain’t you that other guy?
😆 I was waiting for someone to come along and say that! 107,000 miles and the only thing I’ve needed to replace is a $30 sensor - that’s why I bought it! That said the gas mileage is pretty bad especially when towing. I wasn’t thrilled after test driving the Tundras so when it’s time for a new truck, the field will be wide open 🤷♂️
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Was incredibly informative for me. Especially the break away cable. Been doing it wrong. I’m more informed because of you. Thanks again!
You bet!!!
Just bought my first side by side. Thank you SOOOO much for this amazing video! Love it! Helped so much!
Congrats! Glad it helped!!!
Best video covering this topic. As a truck driver I assumed this would be cake but I see it’s more complicated than I thought lol. glad I came across this video super informative !
Appreciate that. Yeah lots of things to consider… most of which I’ve learned the hard way lol
Very nice video. Your explanations and warnings were spot on and will help beginners as well as those of us who trailer often.
Thanks! Everyone has their own little take on things but it should give people a place to start. Cheers!
Great video for people new to trailering. Picking up my first utv this weekend. Great info buddy.
Thanks glad it was helpful! Congrats on the new machine!
Good video and I enjoyed watching it. I've sure had some tremendous success with the Shock-Straps. I use them exclusively. I also like to anchor front center (of my bumper) to the trailer corner. On the rear, I go for the hitch where there are 2 triangular holes (one of each side) then to the corner of the rear of the trailer. By doing it this way, you have that X and you are at the frame eliminating the suspension from riding the straps. Another trick that works better than I ever thought it would for your excess strap. Fold the excess back against the strap and use a binder clip (paper clip) to secure it. I tried this 4 years ago and I'm still using the original binder clip and it is very easy to do.
Great video. Lots of good info.
Longer comment - I work with a volunteer organization, we travel all over the country responding to disasters. We move a large Bobcat, an enclosed tool trailer and a towable manlift. It amazes me how little men who have been towing trailers for decades understand - balancing the load, hitch height, twisting safety chains (bad), tiedowns, trailer brakes, etc. This is the way they learned it, so no reason to consider learning anything else. BTW twisting chains compromises the chain. Please use a hanger, even if its bailing wire to keep the chain off the ground. Excellent job explaining everything.
Thank you. I never thought that twisting the chains was an issue but it makes sense. Easy enough to use bailing wire, that’s a great idea I hadn’t thought of. I appreciate it and I’ll do that in the future.
Well thought out tutorial on trailering. I might add not to overlook your tire pressures in your readiness checklist. Also, if you're approaching your weight limit for your trailer, consider the tongue weight (ideally 10-15% of total weight) can be added back to your trailer weight, since the tongue weight is being borne by the tow vehicle. For instance, if your trailer weighs 2500 pounds and you've loaded your 4500 pound UTV onto your 7000 pound-capacity trailer, your tongue weight may be 1000 pounds or so. The trailer is actually carrying only 6000 pounds, thus you actually have 1000 pounds more capacity to haul.
Excellent point! I don’t think I mentioned tire pressure, I check it before every major trip and it’s important for safety and gas mileage.
I didn’t realize that about tongue weight, that does make sense. Thanks for the comment!
Hey man, best side by side hauling video I've seen. Great job! Only thing I do different is i strap at the wheels that way zero compression on the suspension. But the way you tied looks great with just a little suspension compression. If i ever had to tie above whhels id do as your example. Thanks again
Good info, worth watching, I learned something!
Glad to hear! Thanks!!!
Good video. I have a pioneer 1000-5 that i pull on a steel dual axle. I installed Firestone airbags on the rear of my tundra. After I'm loaded up, I put a small level on the front of my trailer and make adjustments to my airbags to fine tune the levelness of the load.. I adjust slightly higher to compensate for the natural
rear end dip of your truck suspension while under power.
Thanks. I’ve thought about airbags especially given the weight we generally haul in the bed when we go on long trips too. Occasionally if I put the machine a little too far forward I do notice a little more bounce in the rear when we go over bumps. I bet it makes the towing smoother.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily
The airbags make a big difference. I find they even help out with the stability. Used to tow a 32ft. camper.,30lbs of pressure was all that was needed. Keep the videos coming,as I
and others enjoy your content a great deal. May you and your family be safe on all of your travels.
Best way to strap to the trailer is with tire bonnets/tire straps. Never go above the suspension because it loads and unloads to makes things come lose and it's not good for the components. Also weigh your setup at a scale to know the weight. Use a HD home scale under the front trailer arm go figure out where to tie it down by moving the utv back and forth for that 12% tongue weight.
Yeah I’ve seen some people really compress the suspension when strapping things down. I agree I don’t think that’s the best method, things start bouncing and now you have slack followed by sudden tension - not good for the straps either.
Just a thought...in addition to wanting to keep equipment from moving front to rear on the trailer, one must also keep it from moving side to side. Attaching a ratchet strap almost straight back to the rock sliders provides zero side to side retention. A much better place for the from ratchet straps is to the from push bar/ bumper to the trailer tie down loops. Use the double loop straps through the bumper and attach the ratchet strap to them. This will give you a diagonal tie down angle which will prevent movement in two directions. Nice looking General and trailer. I happen to use a tandem axle car hauler for my General and also for my Kubota tractor. Not that I wouldn't want an enclosed trailer...
I appreciate your comment! And I think it’s a fair argument. The downside one downside I could see with that is if you break a strap or one loosens and you don’t notice, you’re now potentially pulling your load laterally / unevenly in one direction.
I’ve heard the argument both ways, I can’t find data to back one or the other, both have some logic behind them. At the end of the day, my own opinion is I don’t think matters a whole lot - at least based on the load I’m hauling. Vehicles experience far less lateral Gs than front to back…. I think at the point where it might make a difference, my truck is going to be on it’s side anyways.
So… I think that’s a totally valid technique you describe. I’m actually really interested in this and I’d love to see some testing or data behind it! You’d think the giant equipment haulers would look at this 🤷♂️
Thanks for your take on it. Good thoughts and I appreciate it! 🤙🏼
and thanks by the way for the compliment! We’d love an enclosed trailer - maybe someday! 🙏🏼
Very informative video! I have a 36’ enclosed gooseneck trailer that I use for transporting two Polaris rangers and a sportsman. The ATV needs to be turned 90 degrees on the back but it fits. E-track in the walls and floor securely keep everything in place.
Thanks! That sounds like a nice setup. We’d to get an enclosed trailer someday.
Great video and great point about the trailer breakaway cable. Never thought of that.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for sharing, a lot of useful information. I am a little nervous though about using the rock sliders as my anchor point, I would think that you could find something on the frame that would be a little more secure. I thank you for the tip on the trailer brake. I was not aware of how the emergency brake worked so that was very useful and how you set your gain as well was very useful. I don't have a sxs yet, I am thinking about ordering a General XP4 1000 possibly this weekend, they are saying about 3-4 months out, I'm not too concerned about losing out on the riding season as I have moved to Arizona from California and in both states, you pretty much have an all-year riding season. Again, very useful information!
Glad it was helpful! It sounds like you made a good move!
I bet 75% of the trailers I see hooked up people have their e brake cables setup in a way it won’t do anything if the trailer comes unhitched. That switch is supposed to brake away from the box and I guess most people don’t realize that.
Since I made this video I generally use the rear hitch now on the back side - it’s just faster but I still secure to the rock sliders up front. They are mounted on there solidly with big bolts and it’s actually kind of hard to find a solid place on the frame that is easy to reach.
Hope you enjoy your new home. It sounds like there is plenty of great riding in AZ!
Great video with lots of important information, thank you.. if I am being picky, the only info missing would be.. when towing your machine do you put it in park, neutral or in gear ? I think that is also a very important information to share
Great question. I would not put it in gear. But I believe park or neutral would be good choices. I have no doubt if towing in Park was actually bad, Polaris would put a warning sticker on the shifter. I also don’t see anything in the manual about not towing in park. That said, it shouldn’t make a difference if you have the machine strapped down properly.
Well done, enjoyed the tips. Break away cable for brakes was not understood by me. Thank you for making that clearer.
You’re welcome! Glad the video was useful. I didn’t know myself for the longest time, had hooked them up where they would have been totally ineffective previously.
The way you do your straps the machine can still shift left to right, you need side tension as well as front to back, your straps should form a X when looking at their imaginary lines of intersection. Just a FYI, do as you wish.
Good information. Thank you. I’m not new to trailering, but wasn’t really taught how to trailer our off road vehicles. Just got a new Polaris Northstar so it’s heavier than our old Ranger, so I was wondering if I should get a tandem axel or use the one we have. Strapping was also good information. I need new straps anyway, so this was good information at a perfect time. I need to do more research with the manufacturer of the trailer since it’s a 2007.
You won’t regret getting a tandem axle. Well worth the cost especially for a heavier machine.
Only thing I’d really say is I’ve gone away from twisting the chains because it could put for stress on them if they pull taught suddenly and bind up. I just use a simple zip tie now to take up the slack.
It’s funny because people get pretty heated and opinionated about some of these things but no one ever has data to back it up. Glad you found the video helpful!!
Really great video without over complicating the process. I really like the clips on the rachet strap hooks, I've had my share of hooks come undone on long rough roads. On the small loose wires &/or cables, I use velcro extension cord keepers. Thank you for sharing a great video.
Thanks! Often the simplest approach is the best. People can be very particular about this stuff but if the machine is tight and doesn’t move, and the load is balanced, you should be good to go!
26:53 - bookmarking this very important part about trailer brakes
Thanks! I’d say 50% of trailers I see hooked up have this wrong!
🏆🏆🏆👍🇺🇲🙏
Make sure your anchors are bolted to the frame of the trailer, I've seen them rip free when just attached to the floor boards with screws or bolts.
And, your battery that locks your trailer brakes in an emergency, must be kept charged, as it sits over time, so it will be able to supply the voltage needed to activate the trailer brakes.
Thank you for sharing
I put a reinforcement plate on the backside of the anchors so it’s distributed across a bunch of boards. Theres no good place to attach the the frame back there unfortunately :( The one thing I don’t like about this trailer is it just doesn’t have a lot of convenient attachment points.
I actually didn’t think of that with the emergency brakes but yeah, really great point. When we bought the trailer as we were pulling it out of the lot, the brake box actually shorted out and they had to replace the thing right there. Thanks Dr Mark!!!!
As my trucking Brother says, there is nothing like a wood deck to keep the load from shifting!
Wood is nice for dampening vibration and friction! Plus it’s a little cheaper usually too.
tremendous video
Thanks! Appreciate it. One thing I changed is I don’t twist the chains anymore. I just used some zip ties to take up the slack.
Hi TNF: Would it be possible for you to take a video of the underside of the trailer and show it? Or just describe it? I'm planning to start making trailers like that and was wondering about the construction. Seems like the axels are mounted directly to the main deck frame (I'm guessing this is to make it sit lower) but there is no extra bracing where the axels are tied to the deck frame? If that were a single axle trailer it would be a massive weak spot for material fatique - but since you have 2 axels I guess it won't be as critical? Would appreciate an answer from you or others that know how the trailer is braced / stiffened under the deck?
You bet - can you shoot me an email? Asknwf@gmail.com and I’ll shoot you some photos or videos when I have some time.
Appreciate the video, do you notice any wind drag from the ramp sitting upright when towing. Im narrowing down my choices but Im having trouble finding a bifold ramp as my last item on my wish list. Just not sure if its worth holding out for. Thanks
Yeah, there is definitely some drag but when the machine is on it, I don’t think it matters. If I don’t have a machine on it and I’m going for a farther drive (rare), I’ll lay the ramp all the way forward flat on the deck and throw a strap across it. I don’t regret buying this trailer one bit.
Tie down the wheels, not the frame as the suspension will flex up and down making your straps loose.
Wheel tie downs can work well too.
I never had a need for trailer brakes even though my van is equipped with a brake controller. Now I know how to set it up should I have the need to use traier brakes (from U-Haul maybe). Another thing to take into consideraton is state laws on trailering. In my state,
Glad it was helpful and really good point on the state regulations!
make sure to not only check the trailer brake lights, but also the running lights of the trailer. I have that problem right now, brake lights and directionals work, but no running lights.
Yes good point! Especially driving at night it can be difficult to see a longer trailer without running lights.
Are you happy you bought a tandem I’m in the market for a new trailer I could get by with a single axle and have for a few years. My concern is I go long distance black hills, Colorado,Tennessee…. I just always think tandems handle better.
Absolutely!!! Tandem is the way to go, I'm really glad I went this route. Well worth the extra money especially if you are towing longer distances at interstate speeds. It bounces less, sways correct faster. Behind my Tundra I almost forget this thing is there (aside from having to stop at every gas station I pass lol)
Sir, what do you do to keep rain off the seats when trailering?
I really didn’t worry about it them getting wet. You gotta be dry them off when you arrive but everything in there can get wet.
Now I just keep my windshield on while trailering and I put a cover on the windshield to protect it from rock chips. That keeps the inside plenty dry.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily Thank you! We have a 10 hr drive ahead of us so I'll have to figure something out. Great to see you guys back on TH-cam!
A lovely Cavalier Cover...
Former Jeep Overlanders here, and first time SxS’ers. Just came here to say that I appreciate your channel and the content that you and your family are putting out. I binged watched your channel while anxiously waiting for our (first) General XP4 1000 to arrive. You’ve got me sold on your trailer choice. Thanks and keep the content coming!
There is nothing wrong with securing to your lower control arms front and rear. Also around the wheels is even better, that allows your suspension to move while trailering.
I think the wheels is a very good option too. I’d love some day to see someone actually test everything and have some data with pros/cons. I’d wager we’re all over thinking it 🤷♂️
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily we probably are overthinking it but on a vehicle the rule of thumb is never secure to a place that can move. The side can move with the suspension and it puts extra unneeded stress on your tie downs. Wheels and lower A arms as close to the hubs as possible solves that problem.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamilyI don’t have data but I tie down my tires and never have broken a tie down point. My friend tied his above the suspension and ripped one of his d-ring to shreds.
Nice vidio. Love the adventures your family takes. I am not an expert but your A arms should be a good tie down location. Using all 4 corners is great a d required in many states. Make sure of stap capacity should be able to carry half the total loD at each corner. You should tie down to the strongest part of the suspension, not the chasis. Secured to the chassis is not good as the suspension will load and unload at bumps. If you use the suspension. There will be np shock loading on the tiedows. I never cross my tiedowns. If one of corner straps fail then load will shift to the side, I do also like to add some angle to the straps so there is side stability. Tow truck driver do these things on their roll off beds. Good info on all of the other vid. Keep up the good work
Interesting take thanks for sharing. Wouldn’t you be concerned about the A arms bending?
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily The heavy lower a-arm are the best. Some folks strap trough the wheel and tire if the opening in the wheels are large enough to pass the strap through. The wheel is still part of the suspension when tied down like this. Check a few of the official sites for UTV sales and service they have lots of good informative vids about this subject.
How does the trailer braking work if you don't have the trailer braking switch on your truck?
It doesn’t! The emergency brake that is activated by the cable if the trailer comes off the hitch will still work however. Another option for trailer brakes is “surge brakes” which don’t require a trailer braking system in the truck. Those just work off the momentum of the trailer itself, and they generally work pretty good.
Did you have to get a wisconsin trailer plate for hauling your side by side?
I didn’t think we did… and the sales guy said no…. but since you brought it up I’m having second thoughts 😆 need to do some reading….
I wasn't sure either originally from Michigan. In Michigan every trailer has to be plated. I understand in Wisconsin the trailer less than 3000 pounds doesn't have to be plated etc.
I recently bought a polaris ranger ultimate in Michigan but I'm a Wisconsin resident. The big tex trailer I bought is 77 by 14 long. My trailer title shows the shipping weight 1400 and G V.W.R up to 6000 pounds.
My concern is the total weight hauling it down the road if it has to be registered and plated considering the total weight polaris/trailer over 3000 pounds.
I'll make a trip to the dmv in Madison Wisconsin with my trailer title and registered it. Take it from there.
What size rhino straps are you using, the 8' or the 15'?
I believe those were the 15 footers
I must have missed it but how long is that trailer?
Also i thought the emergency brake went around the ball and back to the tailer 🤯
16’ - the important thing with the e brake is the cable pulls tight and activates the brake before the chains pull tight. You can do they a variety of ways but too often people have the e brake cable longer than their chains. That’s a problem.
@TheNorthwoodsFamily thank you! Was wondering how my general would look on a 16 haha! Yes you are absolutely correct on the safety cable great video btw
What do you guys all do neutral or in drive when towing?
I don’t think it matters. Park or neutral. It’s strapped down so tight it doesn’t move.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily I strap through the tires so she doesn’t move
What brand is your trailer and where did you buy it ? thanks
No problem. The manufacturer is High Country Trailers
www.highcountrytrailers.com/
And we bought it at 51 Sales in Stoughton, WI
What size trailer?
16’ x 6’
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily thank you for the reply
Great video. What are the dimensions of your trailer? Or model number of trailer. Thanks!
Thanks! Its 16’ long and I believe 6.5’ wide. I’ll confirm tomorrow when I get back to it tomorrow. We’re on the last night of an overland trip tonight.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily Thanks! Enjoy the rest of the trip.
@Matt Mattingly I Did confirm this - it’s an HLS 6.5x16 2.0
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily thank you!
With respect, if you have to stop and tighten your straps after 10 miles on a routine basis then something is wrong with your approach. Yes, you absolutely should check the load, etc. but they should not loosen as you drive.
Yes I agree - they shouldn’t be loosening repeatedly and definitely not getting very loose. Most of it is the soft loops we use - they tend to cinch down tighter after a few miles - it’s almost impossible to pull them as tight as they can get with a 2,000 lb machine pulling on them. We usually need to give each ratchet a couple clicks after a little bit on the road and then it’s good the rest of the trip.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily I confess that I didn’t watch the whole video earlier because of the strap method. However, you gave us great info on that emergency brake cable and adjusting the “gain” of the trailer brakes. Imagine having a full cord of oak in a trailer behind a 3/4 ton pickup and forgetting to boost the trailer brakes… I only did that once.
Mine just says 2363kg for gvwr and gawr.
Single axle trailer? I suppose that would mean the axle strength is the limiting factor of the trailer…. The weakest link in the chain so to speak. Probably not uncommon actually. GAWR = Gross axle weight rating.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily trailer is usually a tandem axle but I had it custom built with one axle.
Nice video except you don't have your machine strapped side to side. So in an emergency maneuver, there is nothing preventing your machine from turning over. Front to back is not sufficient. I'd strongly recommend adding straps that hold it side to side.
So let’s say I swerve right, when I correct the swerve, weight transfers to the right side. So you’re saying the left side of the machine will lift off the deck and roll off my trailer? How are the straps on my left side of the machine going to allow the left side to lift off the deck? The simply can’t unless they break
The straps have a fixed length when they are locked in. One strap cannot shift its angle off the deck, or even laterally, because there are three other straps that are also locked at a fixed distance. For the left rear strap to pivot to the right, the only way for that to happen is for the machine to shift backwards too. The front straps will not allow that to happen. And vice versa.
I’m not saying other techniques (x pattern, using the wheels, etc) doesn’t work equally well. But not a single person who has commented on this video has shown any evidence or reasoning behind their argument. It’s all anecdotal. I’ve looked for tests and haven’t seen them. If you know of one please share, genuinely I’d like to see.
Not trying to be rude, we can agree to disagree but I don’t see how what you’re saying will happen is geometrically possible without multiple straps breaking.
No bueno tie down point. That doesn’t let the suspension of the utv to move up and down.
Sure it does. The suspension is not compressed at all.
I'm pretty sure his aluminum trailer doesn't weigh fourteen hundred pounds especially with tandem axle.
Would you expect it to be more or less?
I’ve never weighed it on a scale, but the manufacturer’s website says “curb weight” for this specific model is 1487 lbs. The certificate of origin gives a “shipping weight” of 1480 lbs. Next time I take a load of junk to the dump I’ll ask them if I can weigh it quick.
Thank you this was super helpful.
You’re welcome!
Do not strap it down the way he shows here. It is the same as strapping it to the body or above the suspension. You want to strap it through the wheels, over the tires and wheels with a strap or better yet a tire bonnet. He mentions that his straps keeps loosening. That is because he is strapping it to the nerf bars and that whole body is bouncing up and down with the suspension and loosing them.His way is not good and unsafe. If you can not strap it over the tires and wheels or through the wheels, then attach on the an arms closest to the wheels as possible. Keep the wheels forced to the trailer and let the rig bounce with the suspension without a strap the body.
Appreciate your opinion but it is not unsafe. Truckers strap cars, trucks and heavy machinery down to the frame all the time.
The straps loosen this was because the loops slip into position and tighten up after a few miles. I stop after a couple miles, click them a few more times and they stay tight all the way across the country. I’ve have trailered this machine thousands of miles across the country many times and they never loosen.
Your way of strapping the machine down over the wheels works great too. The problem with that, and why I don’t do it, is because it limits where you can put your machine on the trailer. Depending on what we are carrying I will need to move my machine forward or back on the trailer to fit other gear or balance the weight.
Strap the tires Down not the frame.
That is another option that works well.
Do not tie down there in Kentucky state police or d o t sees this you get a ticket for un sacerded load has to be tied to the frame front and rear nit your rock slide.
Interesting. I searched for that specific language in KY traffic statutes and couldn’t find it. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm no expert, but it seems you're going to wear down your trailer brakes very quickly...They're meant to stop only the trailer weight, but you set yours to do most of the braking for your tow vehicle as well...They should only tug slightly on the tow vehicle when braking
You are right in the sense that the trailer brakes should be slowing the trailer. However, I respectfully disagree with the rest. The bias sets the proportion or relation of the trailer brakes to the vehicle brakes. In the video I am just testing the bias setting. I am applying 0% braking power to my truck, but 100% power to my trailer when testing the bias.
Once set, and I apply my truck brakes, the trailer brakes are automatically applied in proportion to how hard I am applying the truck brakes. The truck brakes slow the truck down (and the trailer a little too). The trailer brakes slow the trailer down. They work together. The harder I brake the truck, the harder the trailer brakes are applied.
In an emergency braking situation, when your truck activates ABS, you want your trailer brakes at their threshold (max braking power) without locking up. If they are set too light, you're extending your braking distance. Plus, the trailer could try to "pass" the tow vehicle and come around on you which is even worse. Likewise, you can have the same problem if the trailer brakes lock up too soon.
There is a little wiggle room. I've been driving and if it feels like when I release the brakes the vehicle jolts forward, then I back off the bias a bit. But in most conditions, setting them this way gets me really close. And at the end of the day, even if I have to replace my shoes every few years (4,000 miles and they look brand new), I'd rather do that and maximize the braking abilities of my rig. Brakes are meant to be used, and I set mine to give me the maximum ability to stop in an emergency.
I have the same truck as you and I tow rzr and quad in the bed it tows fine good video
Do you realize you're doing that entirely wrong! Go through the wheels.
There are a thousand ways to strap down a SxS, going over the wheels works fine too
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong. Wrong. You strap down a SxS by the tires. Go find those videos showing the correct way. This guy needs to delete this.
😂 show me the proof! Everyone is so set that the only way to do it is the way they do it, but NEVER can back it up. Ever see a semi strap a front end loader down by the tires? Nope.
Strapping by tires on a UTV works great. So do many other ways. The load needs to be secured so it doesn’t shift. Both methods accomplish that.
@@TheNorthwoodsFamily I’m glad to send you the pics of when I flipped the trailer, repaired the roof, and pawned it off on some day laborers. Hey, ain’t you that other guy?
My only suggestion is get rid of the TUNDRA and get A REAL TRUCK truth!
😆 I was waiting for someone to come along and say that! 107,000 miles and the only thing I’ve needed to replace is a $30 sensor - that’s why I bought it! That said the gas mileage is pretty bad especially when towing. I wasn’t thrilled after test driving the Tundras so when it’s time for a new truck, the field will be wide open 🤷♂️