How to Apply Dry Transfer Decals | Model Scenery | Woodland Scenics
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2014
- Learn how easy it is to apply Dry Transfer Decals to add realism to model structures, billboards, signage on buildings, street signs, and other areas of your layout.
For more information, visit our website. woodlandscenics.com
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Always enjoy your instructional videos, how-to's are the awesome part of youtube! Thanks so much for putting these up, excellent productions and always looking forward to your posts. I have used these several times, they work great and are highly recommended for beginners and novices. Easy to use!
I have used these dry transfer sheets • Great stuff.
• Cheers from the Detroit & Mackinac Railway.
I've been modeling a long time and have never tried these types of decals. Good "A+" presentation. I'll give this a go-at-it once I finish assembling my Walthers Cornerstone and DPM structures. Thank you for posting this. :-)
Great as always!
Your products, ideas and video's are great...
Thanks I was searching for this earlier,
Where can I get the small yellow tool that you use to apply the decals with?
Hi! A little off-topic but will Kato unitrack be able to go up your riser inclines?
Yes, modelers can use Kato Unitrack with our SubTerrain Lightweight Layout System products. Just make sure to check with your train manufacturer to determine your train capabilities. This will vary with such factors as the number of cars you are pulling and the percentage of incline, etc. Hope this helps!
Hi,
Do need to apply a gloss coat or matt finish, ie dull coat, to them afterwords? If you do, will it harm the image, ie discoloration, peeling, cracking, etc?
Thank you
Hello there! Use a matte-finish clear coat to permanently fix your Decals. Look for matte finish digital and photo paper protectant or a matte lacquer overcoat. Apply a very light coat (too heavy and it will not work properly), keep layering light coats until Decal is secure.
Are the decals for the road markings flexible? Can a radius be made with them? For curves or intersections?
Thank you for your interest in our products, and we appreciate your patience in our reply. Our decals are too brittle to be able to reliably bend them for making curves and intersections. If you have any other questions, please let us know.
Will Woodland Scenics be expanding their products to include G scale (1:22.5 or 1:24)?
Jarrett Briscoe Hello Jarrett, We currently have a selection of G scale figures and here is the link. I do not know if we have any plans to add to the G scale line, but I will send you inquiry to our Product Development department, so they know there is some interest from the G scale model railroading community. Thanks!
woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/GScaleFigures
Can these decals be applied to a wooden surface? and are they weather proof?
Yes to being applied to a wood surface...and maybe for the outside use...they would have to be sealed. They are not weather proof.
We tested the use of Krylon UV-Resistant CLEAR Acrylic Coating (spray-on). Please note that this was done in our “testing lab,” and not subjected to the outdoors for an extended period of time. Also, we only tested with this one acrylic-based product. Any other sealants have not been tested, and a solvent-based sealant will ruin the decals.
~Apply a light coat of the Krylon spray to the surface where the Decal will be applied and let it dry thoroughly.
~Apply Decals as instructed. After the Decals are applied, it is very important to place the backing paper over top of the applied decal and reburnish for maximum adhesion. You do not want any of the Krylon spray to seep under the decals or they will buckle.
~Apply a very light coat of the Krylon spray onto the Decals and let dry thoroughly. Apply a total of 3-4 coats of the Krylon spray in this same manner. Applying one heavy coat could damage the Decals.
Hope this helps!
Can these decals work on locomotive application such as HO steam and diesels? Also, can I use the Micro-Sol to let the detail soak to make it almost like it's "melted" onto the locomotive? I'm thinking of using those dry transfer decals to letter and number my locomotives.
Yes, the decals can be used on locomotives. We are not familiar with Micro-Sol and have not tested our decals with that product, so we are not able to offer an opinion on the performance of our decals with Micro-Sol.
How much pressure do you need to transfer the decals on the surface? Because the surface on my locomotives are full of rivets, so I am a little concerned if the dry-transfer decals will adhere to the surface. Also, I asked about the MicroScale Micro-sol because I want to minimize the silver linings on the details to make it look like it gives a "screen printed" factory lettered look to it.
Our instructions state that you should use light pressure. We are not sure how the decals will attach to a surface that is filled with rivets.
Are you guys gonna have futuristic structures at all?
We typically model in the 40's and 50's era, but take product suggestions everyday. I will forward your suggestion onto our development team. Thanks for watching!
maybe i can just build them mystel with your products somehow?
You can definitely try. We cannot recommend a way to go about this because we have not tested it our self. Feel free to send us pictures if you do attempt it. We would love to see what you come up with.
Are you planning European orientated signs?
Stefan Lucassen Hello Stefan! I do not know if we are planning to manufacture these in the future, but I will send this to our Product Development department for consideration. Thank you for your interest in our products!
Biggest problem I have with these , are every time I use the letter and number ones they like clock work break apart and I have to remove the part that stuck. I have wasted more decals this way. I really wish they were like normal water slide decals.
We are really sorry for the trouble you seem to be having with our Dry Transfer Decals, and would like to try to help you be successful with their application. The decals should not break apart and this is the first time we have been made aware of this issue. Sometimes with the smaller scales and decals, it is easy to miss burnishing a part of the decal because fingers get in the way. If you are modeling in a smaller scale, we suggest cutting decals in a manner that leaves a ‘tab,' which you can hold with a pair of tweezers, while you are burnishing. Also prior to burnishing, ‘tap’ the decal in place. When lifting the carrier sheet, lift it very slowly, and if you find that part of the decal is not releasing, let the carrier sheet drop back in place and burnish that spot again. Hope this helps and thank you for taking the time to let us know of your difficulties.
Generally good info, BUT...get your greasy fingers off the back of that sheet 1:14!!...those finger oils will often interfere with complete transfer!...only handle sheet with burnishing sheet between fingers and back of decal sheet until ready to transfer! ...same thing goes for surface to be transferred to...cleanliness is also important!...always remove molding and finger oils before attempting transfer. Cheers from the hobby table
Dry Transfer Decals are almost like tattoos.