I have a kiwami 4. It works fine, I have two air outlets one has 90 psi air. I have another air outlet with a regulator at 35 psi . That is the air line I use to connect to kiwami spray gun, seals are fine.
Hi James, I have a few Kiwami4s as I have the WB and WBX versions. It's only happened to one, actually leaking out the back, not the front but I've had and bought another 4 Iwatas that have an air leak of some kind from the area covered by the video. It doesn't affect performance, but it's certainly worth looking out for. Cheers 👍
Hi Andrew, it's a common problem, I would think yours being that old will have a metal fluid needle guide, the bit at the back, much more reliable than the newer plastic one's although the metal ones are more prone to corrosion if people use waterbourn paints.
Thanks David, hopefully it will guide people in the right direction if they get air leaks, as you'll know, they don't affect the performance of the gun just annoying really. This is the LPH I really wanted, I'm pretty sure the cap is the same as the W400 WBX, had a quick look but need to do more checking, cheers mate 👍
@peteshobbies5383 its a fantastic clear cost gun with the chrome cap. I have the w400lv wbx and it sprays sealer or wet on wet as well as the lph400 sprays clear. I'm going to get the lph440 and see if it will spray primers as well as my Sata 100bf. If it does, I'll sell the sata and be all in with iwata other than for base coats . I will never sell my DV1b . That's a killer base coat gun
@@davidray4655 The LPH400 is fairly slow so I like to use it on smaller jobs for more control. I have faster guns for doing completes that give fantastic results as well. I would like to get a DV1 but I already have a wide variety of guns and I can't really justify buying one at the moment.
@@davidparker9676 I understand. I personally can't keep up with the faster guns. That's why I prefer iwata. I do have a sata 100bf for primers and it does an excellent job.
Hi Pete, that was interesting to watch mate and I'm surprised that Iwata would have these problems on their guns as they are one of the leading manufactures in the industry, they must know it's a problem so I would think there would be a fix for it by now🤔 So far my W400 has been flawless so I don't know if they have a different design of seal, be interesting to know if the WS400S2 are the same🤷♂ Thanks for doing this vid mate as I'm sure it will help a lot of people👌👍
Hi John, I don't think it's that much of an issue for many. Some won't even notice it as it doesn't affect the working in any way. I'm a bit ott in that I put everything now up against my ear to listen for it 🤣😂. I haven't had the problem with any other make, although I have more Iwatas than anything else by a long stretch. The WS400 series 2 has exactly the same arrangement. the part number is different, probably the same as the Kiwami4 one , cheers mate 👍
Hi Pete. Loved the video. Been waiting years for you to do one like this. Do yourself a favor and buy the chrome cap for clear. You'll see why people rave about it
I have all three caps for the LPH400, the orange LVX cap is great for base and clear. I have only seen a few people rave about the chrome cap compared to the other two. The orange cap seems to be the overall favorite. The purple LVB cap is designed for base but lays HS clear like glass.
@davidray4655, I effectively have that same cap, I'm pretty sure that the cap with the Wider4L is the same. Although there is a different pitch thread on the bezel, you can remove it and fit it to a W400 bezel, and I should be in business, plenty of experimenting to be done, cheers buddy 👍 😀
@davidparker9676 I've had the other 2 caps, but maybe I just didn't give them enough spray time. It was pretty much once and done, but I'll have to respectfully disagree about the orange cap. It's seems to be the òld lph400 lv2 cap which was the predisessor of the lv4 cap
Hey Pete greetings from the states. I started a new job and suddenly my 5 year old LPH 400 lvx is dripping clear it appears from the bottom side of the cap ,but I’m realizing it has to be the needle packing cartridge. What timing that you would make this video. Paint rep says I should replace the nozzle, needle and air cap but I think what you’ve explained here makes more sense. Keep doing what you do.
Hi buddy, It could certainly be the needle packing as it seaps past the needle and runs down body and off the bottom of the cap. The best thing is to clean and dry the gun, the put thinners or reducer as you say in the US in it, and see if it starts leaking first without pulling the trigger with your finger on the part of the gun under the needle packing, just so it's reaches your finger first . If nothing happens, then try test sprays with your finger still there. Basically, if your finger gets wet and it's not dripping from the cap, it's the needle packing. Let me know how it goes if you would. Thanks, mate 👍
Pete, just a humble request please. Ever thought of doing a comparison of different clear coats, especially not using any thinners, just neat + catalyst V thinned say 10% and problems with die back later on. I never use thinners and do not warm the clear up as you do. Would make it interesting, Warming the clear would no doubt change the viscocity and flow out. But it also depends on what gun is being used, workshop conditions and other factors. What do you think?
Hi mate, I did a review of different clear coats, but without thinners, it's here, th-cam.com/video/YQffNOUL0A4/w-d-xo.html, also the effect on viscosity of clear coat,which is here, th-cam.com/video/VRCGv6Rxw1Q/w-d-xo.html. Sounds like a good idea though to see the effect of thinners on the clear, I normally try and leave any outside shots for a few days, just so any initial die back takes place, only real observation is harder speed does have an effect over a few days, haven't really noticed any using thinners though, I'll keep it in mind as it would be interesting to see, cheers mate 👍
pete love the channel!! question for ya i know you have about a million guns 😂😂😂 the iwata mini/midi gun cant remember the model the w300 does that lay clear like the ws400? or not as good? im looking for a smaller option and quite like the look of them but was unsure how well they laid the clear
Hi mate, The one I love is the W300WB. It has to be the WB version as it has the split tip. it's a 3 split like the W400WB & WBX and lays clear, really nice. It's not fast as they don't put out lots of material, but they atomise really fine, so they can give a great thin finish it that makes sense. I've recently got an LPH300, which is also brilliant, that has a 4 split tip and basically a lower pressure version of the W300WB, both excellent tools
Hi again buddy, if the plastic piece won't back out, then you need to soak the threads in penetrative fluid. It will be the aluminium reaction to solvents and moisture. You need to be really careful not to damage the head where the hexagon key fits as its your only chance. Also, try heating the gun body with a hot air gun as the expansion on the metal can help break the seal of the plastic part
@@peteshobbies5383 wel sir I messed the hex up. stripped. I'm clueless now. I wonder if I can send to iwata to fix . I just bought 2 of these for a great deal but had no clue they both didn't work
You can try the next size key up, make the key hot so it melts into the plastic, let it cool, then try, but you need to let penetrative oil get into the threads, this may take a day or two
Hi mate, the part for the WS400 is exactly the same as the LPH400 in this video. The part number in the video is the same, and the procedure is the same, so do a search of that part number wherever you are, and you will be able to get one 👍
Hi buddy, if it's leaking behind the trigger, it will be the part I changed in this video, the air valve seat, there's a seal inside the valve seat that should stop air coming out from the trigger
@digitalorgy3784 There are 2 o'ring at the front of the seat. One is on the outside, and there is one on the inside. Some can be hard to get out if they have been in there a while, that why I put petroleum jelly on the threads before refitting. If you can, leave it to soak in penetrative fluid and try again
@digitalorgy3784 should be fine as long as you clean it afterwards. The inside components are lightly greased and oiled at the factory. Just put it down the threads in the body. They go the length of it
Hi Buddy, it will be getting past the tip, so where the taper is on the tip if its a W400 or LPH400, make sure the tip is completely clean and the inside of the gun is clean, where the tip sits on the gun, also make sure the tip is tight. If it's still leaking into the pot after that, either the tip taper or the gun is damaged, it's only where the taper on the tip and gun meet that seals the air out, hope that helps 👍 Let us know how you get on 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Thank you very much! You requested an update, so, here goes. I have cleaned the gun at least four times. No real improvement. On the final cleaning I noted a burr at the thread end of the paint nozzle, on what might be a sealing surface. I do recall dropping the nozzle after the previous gun use. Could this be the issue? Should I go ahead a purchase a new paint nozzle?
@@peteshobbies5383 I was thinking once the part arrives I'll also see if I can remove the burr and restore the part to usefulness. And, then have a back up. Thank you!
It's a 1.6 with the 510+ cap, I had always assumed they were the same as the Gti Pro bodies but they have a similar baffle system as the Sri Pro Lite, I did know before I got it as someone told me but it was only recently, I think it's a better system than the white baffle gasket used on the Gti Pro Lite and Pri Pro Lite etc
@@peteshobbies5383 you'll have to thin down ya thick primers a touch and internals are way different make sure that plastic baffle is beded in properly in its recess or you'll distort it when screwing on the flow tip the 510 is a good cap but see if you can get of a com 430 cap aswell you'll notice that the cap is way smaller than the pro have fun mate 😉😗
you have given me some great insight sir. thanks
Hi Buddy, you're most welcome 👍
I have a kiwami 4. It works fine, I have two air outlets one has 90 psi air. I have another air outlet with a regulator at 35 psi . That is the air line I use to connect to kiwami spray gun, seals are fine.
Hi James, I have a few Kiwami4s as I have the WB and WBX versions. It's only happened to one, actually leaking out the back, not the front but I've had and bought another 4 Iwatas that have an air leak of some kind from the area covered by the video.
It doesn't affect performance, but it's certainly worth looking out for. Cheers 👍
My w400 would be pushing 14 years old and I've never changed a single part on it! (And it's been well used!)
Hi Andrew, it's a common problem, I would think yours being that old will have a metal fluid needle guide, the bit at the back, much more reliable than the newer plastic one's although the metal ones are more prone to corrosion if people use waterbourn paints.
Excelente información como siempre amigo Petes
Muchas gracias, amigo 👍
I have a kiwami 4 I hope its not leaking pete very interesting video thanks for sharing that information
Hi Andrew, one of mine did, hadn't been used much when it started, doesn't affect the performance, just annoying really 👍
Thanks for another informative upload.
The orange LVX "Xtreme" cap does a great job with base and clear. Excellent choice of LPH400.
Thanks David, hopefully it will guide people in the right direction if they get air leaks, as you'll know, they don't affect the performance of the gun just annoying really.
This is the LPH I really wanted, I'm pretty sure the cap is the same as the W400 WBX, had a quick look but need to do more checking, cheers mate 👍
In my experience, iwata is not that good for metallics. The DV1 is the king if base coat guns
@peteshobbies5383 its a fantastic clear cost gun with the chrome cap. I have the w400lv wbx and it sprays sealer or wet on wet as well as the lph400 sprays clear.
I'm going to get the lph440 and see if it will spray primers as well as my Sata 100bf. If it does, I'll sell the sata and be all in with iwata other than for base coats . I will never sell my DV1b . That's a killer base coat gun
@@davidray4655 The LPH400 is fairly slow so I like to use it on smaller jobs for more control. I have faster guns for doing completes that give fantastic results as well.
I would like to get a DV1 but I already have a wide variety of guns and I can't really justify buying one at the moment.
@@davidparker9676 I understand. I personally can't keep up with the faster guns. That's why I prefer iwata. I do have a sata 100bf for primers and it does an excellent job.
Hi Pete, that was interesting to watch mate and I'm surprised that Iwata would have these problems on their guns as they are one of the leading manufactures in the industry, they must know it's a problem so I would think there would be a fix for it by now🤔
So far my W400 has been flawless so I don't know if they have a different design of seal, be interesting to know if the WS400S2 are the same🤷♂
Thanks for doing this vid mate as I'm sure it will help a lot of people👌👍
Hi John, I don't think it's that much of an issue for many. Some won't even notice it as it doesn't affect the working in any way.
I'm a bit ott in that I put everything now up against my ear to listen for it 🤣😂.
I haven't had the problem with any other make, although I have more Iwatas than anything else by a long stretch.
The WS400 series 2 has exactly the same arrangement. the part number is different, probably the same as the Kiwami4 one , cheers mate 👍
Hi Pete. Loved the video. Been waiting years for you to do one like this.
Do yourself a favor and buy the chrome cap for clear. You'll see why people rave about it
I have all three caps for the LPH400, the orange LVX cap is great for base and clear.
I have only seen a few people rave about the chrome cap compared to the other two. The orange cap seems to be the overall favorite.
The purple LVB cap is designed for base but lays HS clear like glass.
@davidray4655, I effectively have that same cap, I'm pretty sure that the cap with the Wider4L is the same. Although there is a different pitch thread on the bezel, you can remove it and fit it to a W400 bezel, and I should be in business, plenty of experimenting to be done, cheers buddy 👍 😀
@davidparker9676 I've had the other 2 caps, but maybe I just didn't give them enough spray time. It was pretty much once and done, but I'll have to respectfully disagree about the orange cap. It's seems to be the òld lph400 lv2 cap which was the predisessor of the lv4 cap
Hey Pete greetings from the states. I started a new job and suddenly my 5 year old LPH 400 lvx is dripping clear it appears from the bottom side of the cap ,but I’m realizing it has to be the needle packing cartridge. What timing that you would make this video. Paint rep says I should replace the nozzle, needle and air cap but I think what you’ve explained here makes more sense. Keep doing what you do.
Hi buddy, It could certainly be the needle packing as it seaps past the needle and runs down body and off the bottom of the cap.
The best thing is to clean and dry the gun, the put thinners or reducer as you say in the US in it, and see if it starts leaking first without pulling the trigger with your finger on the part of the gun under the needle packing, just so it's reaches your finger first .
If nothing happens, then try test sprays with your finger still there. Basically, if your finger gets wet and it's not dripping from the cap, it's the needle packing.
Let me know how it goes if you would. Thanks, mate 👍
Pete, just a humble request please. Ever thought of doing a comparison of different clear coats, especially not using any thinners, just neat + catalyst V thinned say 10% and problems with die back later on. I never use thinners and do not warm the clear up as you do. Would make it interesting, Warming the clear would no doubt change the viscocity and flow out. But it also depends on what gun is being used, workshop conditions and other factors. What do you think?
Hi mate, I did a review of different clear coats, but without thinners, it's here, th-cam.com/video/YQffNOUL0A4/w-d-xo.html, also the effect on viscosity of clear coat,which is here, th-cam.com/video/VRCGv6Rxw1Q/w-d-xo.html.
Sounds like a good idea though to see the effect of thinners on the clear, I normally try and leave any outside shots for a few days, just so any initial die back takes place, only real observation is harder speed does have an effect over a few days, haven't really noticed any using thinners though, I'll keep it in mind as it would be interesting to see, cheers mate 👍
pete love the channel!! question for ya i know you have about a million guns 😂😂😂 the iwata mini/midi gun cant remember the model the w300 does that lay clear like the ws400? or not as good? im looking for a smaller option and quite like the look of them but was unsure how well they laid the clear
Hi mate, The one I love is the W300WB. It has to be the WB version as it has the split tip. it's a 3 split like the W400WB & WBX and lays clear, really nice.
It's not fast as they don't put out lots of material, but they atomise really fine, so they can give a great thin finish it that makes sense.
I've recently got an LPH300, which is also brilliant, that has a 4 split tip and basically a lower pressure version of the W300WB, both excellent tools
@@peteshobbies5383 thanks I’ll take a look I knew you would know 👍👍👍
@@peteshobbies5383 is the lph300 still the midi size?
@grantssmartrepairs You're welcome buddy, cheers 👍
What if the plastic part that you use Alan on won't back out
Hi again buddy, if the plastic piece won't back out, then you need to soak the threads in penetrative fluid. It will be the aluminium reaction to solvents and moisture.
You need to be really careful not to damage the head where the hexagon key fits as its your only chance.
Also, try heating the gun body with a hot air gun as the expansion on the metal can help break the seal of the plastic part
@@peteshobbies5383 wel sir I messed the hex up. stripped. I'm clueless now. I wonder if I can send to iwata to fix . I just bought 2 of these for a great deal but had no clue they both didn't work
You can try the next size key up, make the key hot so it melts into the plastic, let it cool, then try, but you need to let penetrative oil get into the threads, this may take a day or two
❤❤❤
Cheers, buddy, thanks 😊
I have the same problem with my ws400 can you put the link to the part or the name of the part 😢
Hi mate, the part for the WS400 is exactly the same as the LPH400 in this video. The part number in the video is the same, and the procedure is the same, so do a search of that part number wherever you are, and you will be able to get one 👍
I have an LPH 400 silver cap and it’s leaking air behind the trigger. Can’t figure it out
Hi buddy, if it's leaking behind the trigger, it will be the part I changed in this video, the air valve seat, there's a seal inside the valve seat that should stop air coming out from the trigger
@@peteshobbies5383 u talking about the o ring. I cannot get my 10mm hex to turn unfortunately
@digitalorgy3784 There are 2 o'ring at the front of the seat. One is on the outside, and there is one on the inside.
Some can be hard to get out if they have been in there a while, that why I put petroleum jelly on the threads before refitting.
If you can, leave it to soak in penetrative fluid and try again
@@peteshobbies5383 penetrating oil that could ruin the gun don’t u think ?
@digitalorgy3784 should be fine as long as you clean it afterwards. The inside components are lightly greased and oiled at the factory.
Just put it down the threads in the body. They go the length of it
I have air coming back up into the paint cup. Any idea what is going on to cause that?
Hi Buddy, it will be getting past the tip, so where the taper is on the tip if its a W400 or LPH400, make sure the tip is completely clean and the inside of the gun is clean, where the tip sits on the gun, also make sure the tip is tight.
If it's still leaking into the pot after that, either the tip taper or the gun is damaged, it's only where the taper on the tip and gun meet that seals the air out, hope that helps 👍
Let us know how you get on 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Thank you very much! You requested an update, so, here goes. I have cleaned the gun at least four times. No real improvement. On the final cleaning I noted a burr at the thread end of the paint nozzle, on what might be a sealing surface. I do recall dropping the nozzle after the previous gun use. Could this be the issue? Should I go ahead a purchase a new paint nozzle?
@DoktorHalloween That sounds like the problem. You can try removing the dur with some very fine wet and dry paper
@@peteshobbies5383 I was thinking once the part arrives I'll also see if I can remove the burr and restore the part to usefulness. And, then have a back up. Thank you!
Your welcome 👍
Great bit of trouble shooting pete 😊😊 has that hd advance shown up yet ????
Thanks Dean, Yes mate, it turned up ok, true enough, it's never been used, haven't used it yet but looking forward to it 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 hope it serves you well what's the set up on it and what cap came with it bud ??
It's a 1.6 with the 510+ cap, I had always assumed they were the same as the Gti Pro bodies but they have a similar baffle system as the Sri Pro Lite, I did know before I got it as someone told me but it was only recently, I think it's a better system than the white baffle gasket used on the Gti Pro Lite and Pri Pro Lite etc
@@peteshobbies5383 you'll have to thin down ya thick primers a touch and internals are way different make sure that plastic baffle is beded in properly in its recess or you'll distort it when screwing on the flow tip the 510 is a good cap but see if you can get of a com 430 cap aswell you'll notice that the cap is way smaller than the pro have fun mate 😉😗
Ok mate, the diameter of the cap is definitely smaller, another thing I didn't realise 👍