For me, the ideas in th-cam.com/users/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
I live in the UK and this is one of the most detailed videos on blocking and the importance. My house has a bouncy floor and the joists twist and creak driving me mad! I have taken up the floor added Rockwool sound insulation and put in blocks every 600mm. There is was only one row of herringbone struts across the floor. The span is about 3m and that was totally inadequate. Personally I think building regs outline the minimum requirements. At the end of the day the homeowner has to put up with the floor for years! I have taken the belts and braces approach and my floor is rock hard and sturdy...no more bounce, no more creaks, no more twisting joists. No more noise, wardrobes don't bounce up and down when my children jump up and down in the bedroom and no more deflection in the ceiling in the living room below!
I've spaced floor joists before using precut 14½" blocks; one at each end and one at each blocking point. It eliminates the custom measuring and cutting for the blocking, because you KNOW the distance. Plus, you can nail in the blocks as the joists go in.
@NSM Construction / / / Really enjoying this series .... 7 years after it's making in 2023. :-) Thank you for putting this out there for us all to learn from. (Is that a Michigan accent by the way?)
@@NSMConstruction I was disappointed you used a drywall screw for the comparison instead of one designed for framing and putting up joist hangers. People watching will think you can't use screws for joist hangers, which is not true.
Thank you for the video. Very informative and to the point. This has given me a path of action to fix some of the deflection in the floors of our home.
Alot of comments on the blocking. Adding a row of blocking is definitely structural. A blocked floor will feel like walking on a concrete pad compared to an unblocked floor. Any dynamic load will be transferred down to the joist below and also to the joists to the left and right. In theory, you still have the same number of joists but in reality, the floor will deflect much less, costs very little and only adds a little labor. I see alot of new construction skip these to save a few hundred bucks.
I am not a professional carpenter, but I want to level the floor in my laundry area in an old home and the floor joists now are not level and some of the joists are "sistered" together. Also, some of the joists are twisted, so I would like to replace those with new joists. Thanks for the informative video!
Might not the place for a debate about shear in nails vs screws, but to test for shear, you'd need to restrain the tops of each of those fasteners. Allowing them to simply be bent over gives you only a loose sense of how much strength they have -- in BENDING, not shear. Gyp screws are...for gyp, of course, and work great for holding mason's line temporarily and such, but of course they're brittle, small-gauge, and no good for structural use. Which brings me to my point... Industry is slowly coming around to recognizing and sanctioning the vastly superior (though not quicker or cheaper) qualities of screws in framing. Simpson already sells screws for hangers, which of course are code-accepted; a lot of people haven't noticed this yet. GRK fasteners, for one, produce a *code-compliant* line of screws that, but for the head, look very much like what's sold as "deck screws" all over the country. If I did production framing - yes, the world is grateful they don't have to hire me to do that - I'd be swingin' a hammer or using my ancient coil-nailer (and swearing regularly when I have to get a nail of any type OUT), but in all my personal projects I'm using screws almost exclusively.
I realize this video was made at least four years ago and that the building code may be different now than it was back then, but I’m questioning the spacing of nails from rim joist to sill plate - I’m not sure it is 16” O.C. There may also be a requirement to toe nail the joists to the sill plate as well. I also realize each municipality has its own building code, but these days most are based off of the international residential code, so codes tend to be fairly close to the same across the country these days. I would suggest people watching this video take a good look at the fastener requirements in their local building code (Table R602.3(1) Fastening Schedule).
So... Half the nails (the straight hammered ones) are joist hanger nails and the diagonal hammered nails on that same hanger, are "16 penny" nails, not joist hanger nails?
Hanger nails come in multiple lengths. 1-1/2 for the hanger face to the rim joist, and longer 2-1/2 or longer for the diagonal shear location so that the nail is long enough to exit the floor joist and penetrate the rim joist
Excellent video. I started with episode 9, I’m going to go through them all. I’m renovating my bathroom on 2nd floor and the old floor joists are a mess. I didn’t know about sheer strength or that floor joist nails even existed. I think providence brought me here, lol
Pretty sure there are a lot high shear strength screws on the market. I use Spax, the best in Europe (as far I know)! You can never mess up a spax, you always mess up the wood if you push it, even hard wood. For contractors, I understand using nails, having several types of nail guns available on site. It’s hard to regain the price of good a nail gun in ‘diy’ in time.
Would it be easier, faster, and accurate to nail the cripples to their positions if you have copied their marks on window sill from bottom plate before nailing the sill?
Now if a room in a old house is out of square pretty much have to go with it can't have everything straight I stared and making sure the joist matched up and ending up being off almost 2in after I got to the last joist so has to put sister boards on it to get it to work or it would all be messed up
If joists are spaced 16” or 24” OC, why again does each opening have to be measured? One would think the blocks would all be the same measurement, no? If the joist is twisted or such, then why measure from the ends not the middle where the block is inserted?
I always prefer screws and glue (pva) for blocking. I measure the gap at each bearing end and take the average (for mid span blocking). I pilot hole the screws and use long screws as they are going end on to the grain. An impact driver ensures a tight pull. Once the screws are tight and glue set they provide good anti twist and anti bounce. Particularly useful where the floor is in a non habitable space i.e. flooring a loft for storage where I would use smaller joists to be more economical. By this method the blocking is effectively a beam running right angles to the main joist run
Great walk through on new construction. When I remodel or repair old work and existing framing, I like to use structural fasteners (GRK is my fave), especially in tight crawl spaces where driving a nail can be difficult.
I just did some 2x10 blocking in my basement area for the living room above, that is always bouncing when the kids play. Some of the blocks fit ok and some are a little tight/loose. I used long general purpose wood screws. Floor seems more stable, but when I walk into the living room in the morning I hear a few loud cracks/pops. Seems like it's only once or twice a day. It's not my subfloor since I screwed the plywood down before laying 3/4" hardwood a year ago. What's this popping noise and should I be concerned? This is only a 21" section I blocked. My span is 14' and the house is 32 years old. Home was built with the 1x3 diagonal bracing, but that stuff wasn't helping it seems.
Did you use glue when you attached the subfloor to the joists? When laying down floor sheathing, you should always put a healthy bead of construction adhesive (specifically for subfloor application) (unless it’s an acces area to the crawl space) This will provide a buffer between the bottom side of the subfloor and the top of the joist.
Awesome video, really helps me out as a visual learner! Just a question, wouldn't toenailing the top of the blocking work like the screws for the ends you can't reach?
That is not a sheer test, that is a bend test. Yes sheetrock screw (the weakest screw) has a lower sheer strength then a nail but true sheer test have shown that the amount of weight required to sheer a screw is almost double the weight required to pull a nail. The issue is people over torque the screw and compromise the screw head. Screws will always be a superior fastener this test is misleading at best.
You should check and redefine your "shear" explanation of nails with regards to hangars. Good try. ALso, your hangar will state right on the hangar (usually) exactly what nails to use. And some of them require 16 penny nails in all holes. Not teco nails as you show.
NSM Construction the end of my joists have a notch cut out and is resting on a ledge. There are no joist hangers. Are the joists resting on the sill plate? They are not toenailed to the rim joist.
So glad I found this channel.
For me, the ideas in th-cam.com/users/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
I live in the UK and this is one of the most detailed videos on blocking and the importance. My house has a bouncy floor and the joists twist and creak driving me mad! I have taken up the floor added Rockwool sound insulation and put in blocks every 600mm. There is was only one row of herringbone struts across the floor. The span is about 3m and that was totally inadequate. Personally I think building regs outline the minimum requirements. At the end of the day the homeowner has to put up with the floor for years! I have taken the belts and braces approach and my floor is rock hard and sturdy...no more bounce, no more creaks, no more twisting joists. No more noise, wardrobes don't bounce up and down when my children jump up and down in the bedroom and no more deflection in the ceiling in the living room below!
I've spaced floor joists before using precut 14½" blocks; one at each end and one at each blocking point. It eliminates the custom measuring and cutting for the blocking, because you KNOW the distance. Plus, you can nail in the blocks as the joists go in.
@NSM Construction / / / Really enjoying this series .... 7 years after it's making in 2023. :-) Thank you for putting this out there for us all to learn from. (Is that a Michigan accent by the way?)
This is great info for us inexperience DIYers. Thank you!
Great video. Great points on the sheer strength of different fasteners and the staggered blocking
@@NSMConstruction I was disappointed you used a drywall screw for the comparison instead of one designed for framing and putting up joist hangers. People watching will think you can't use screws for joist hangers, which is not true.
Thank you for the video. Very informative and to the point. This has given me a path of action to fix some of the deflection in the floors of our home.
Alot of comments on the blocking. Adding a row of blocking is definitely structural. A blocked floor will feel like walking on a concrete pad compared to an unblocked floor. Any dynamic load will be transferred down to the joist below and also to the joists to the left and right. In theory, you still have the same number of joists but in reality, the floor will deflect much less, costs very little and only adds a little labor. I see alot of new construction skip these to save a few hundred bucks.
It's much less frustrating than putting in any type of diagonal bracing.
Great, UMMM, Video guy
I am not a professional carpenter, but I want to level the floor in my laundry area in an old home and the floor joists now are not level and some of the joists are "sistered" together. Also, some of the joists are twisted, so I would like to replace those with new joists. Thanks for the informative video!
Superb instructional video.
Great info. Thanks
Great video, with great information and tips. Great job
this is a great video. thanks!
Might not the place for a debate about shear in nails vs screws, but to test for shear, you'd need to restrain the tops of each of those fasteners. Allowing them to simply be bent over gives you only a loose sense of how much strength they have -- in BENDING, not shear. Gyp screws are...for gyp, of course, and work great for holding mason's line temporarily and such, but of course they're brittle, small-gauge, and no good for structural use. Which brings me to my point... Industry is slowly coming around to recognizing and sanctioning the vastly superior (though not quicker or cheaper) qualities of screws in framing. Simpson already sells screws for hangers, which of course are code-accepted; a lot of people haven't noticed this yet. GRK fasteners, for one, produce a *code-compliant* line of screws that, but for the head, look very much like what's sold as "deck screws" all over the country. If I did production framing - yes, the world is grateful they don't have to hire me to do that - I'd be swingin' a hammer or using my ancient coil-nailer (and swearing regularly when I have to get a nail of any type OUT), but in all my personal projects I'm using screws almost exclusively.
I realize this video was made at least four years ago and that the building code may be different now than it was back then, but I’m questioning the spacing of nails from rim joist to sill plate - I’m not sure it is 16” O.C. There may also be a requirement to toe nail the joists to the sill plate as well. I also realize each municipality has its own building code, but these days most are based off of the international residential code, so codes tend to be fairly close to the same across the country these days. I would suggest people watching this video take a good look at the fastener requirements in their local building code (Table R602.3(1) Fastening Schedule).
So... Half the nails (the straight hammered ones) are joist hanger nails
and the diagonal hammered nails on that same hanger, are "16 penny" nails, not joist hanger nails?
Hanger nails come in multiple lengths. 1-1/2 for the hanger face to the rim joist, and longer 2-1/2 or longer for the diagonal shear location so that the nail is long enough to exit the floor joist and penetrate the rim joist
Excellent video. I started with episode 9, I’m going to go through them all. I’m renovating my bathroom on 2nd floor and the old floor joists are a mess. I didn’t know about sheer strength or that floor joist nails even existed. I think providence brought me here, lol
can you use screws for blocking with rafters?
Pretty sure there are a lot high shear strength screws on the market. I use Spax, the best in Europe (as far I know)! You can never mess up a spax, you always mess up the wood if you push it, even hard wood. For contractors, I understand using nails, having several types of nail guns available on site. It’s hard to regain the price of good a nail gun in ‘diy’ in time.
Would it be easier, faster, and accurate to nail the cripples to their positions if you have copied their marks on window sill from bottom plate before nailing the sill?
Now if a room in a old house is out of square pretty much have to go with it can't have everything straight I stared and making sure the joist matched up and ending up being off almost 2in after I got to the last joist so has to put sister boards on it to get it to work or it would all be messed up
If joists are spaced 16” or 24” OC, why again does each opening have to be measured? One would think the blocks would all be the same measurement, no? If the joist is twisted or such, then why measure from the ends not the middle where the block is inserted?
I always prefer screws and glue (pva) for blocking. I measure the gap at each bearing end and take the average (for mid span blocking). I pilot hole the screws and use long screws as they are going end on to the grain. An impact driver ensures a tight pull. Once the screws are tight and glue set they provide good anti twist and anti bounce. Particularly useful where the floor is in a non habitable space i.e. flooring a loft for storage where I would use smaller joists to be more economical. By this method the blocking is effectively a beam running right angles to the main joist run
Great walk through on new construction. When I remodel or repair old work and existing framing, I like to use structural fasteners (GRK is my fave), especially in tight crawl spaces where driving a nail can be difficult.
Thanks pal.
Can you use 2 blocks instead of 1 for even more firmness and reinforcement?
great question
I just did some 2x10 blocking in my basement area for the living room above, that is always bouncing when the kids play.
Some of the blocks fit ok and some are a little tight/loose. I used long general purpose wood screws. Floor seems more stable, but when I walk into the living room in the morning I hear a few loud cracks/pops. Seems like it's only once or twice a day. It's not my subfloor since I screwed the plywood down before laying 3/4" hardwood a year ago. What's this popping noise and should I be concerned? This is only a 21" section I blocked.
My span is 14' and the house is 32 years old. Home was built with the 1x3 diagonal bracing, but that stuff wasn't helping it seems.
Did you use glue when you attached the subfloor to the joists?
When laying down floor sheathing, you should always put a healthy bead of construction adhesive (specifically for subfloor application) (unless it’s an acces area to the crawl space)
This will provide a buffer between the bottom side of the subfloor and the top of the joist.
What is best breakfast for diabetics?
Can I ask what model of occidental tool belt your have? Is it the 7 bag framing belt?
Awesome video, really helps me out as a visual learner! Just a question, wouldn't toenailing the top of the blocking work like the screws for the ends you can't reach?
Love the videos! They ARE incredibly useful! (free comment for extra pennies :)
That is not a sheer test, that is a bend test. Yes sheetrock screw (the weakest screw) has a lower sheer strength then a nail but true sheer test have shown that the amount of weight required to sheer a screw is almost double the weight required to pull a nail. The issue is people over torque the screw and compromise the screw head. Screws will always be a superior fastener this test is misleading at best.
Thanks. Is ther a particular reason you use 16 penny to toenail the hangar and not the hangar nails?
Mike M It depends on the hanger thats being used. Some of the hangers specify which nails are to be used.
why did you nail the cripple joists about an inch lower than the trimmer joists
They are 2x4's and the rest are 2x6's.
They're flush with the top plane, they just look lower from far away because of the way the light hits the header they butt up against.
uuumm uuumm uuumm uuuuum lol... anoying but you are very helpful thanks I couldn't find anyone else to give the info I needed
? no joist hangers?
I've never seen joist hangers on cripple studs for windows. Why exactly do you include these joist hangers?
Ok that makes so much more sense. I was very confused for a moment.
You should check and redefine your "shear" explanation of nails with regards to hangars. Good try. ALso, your hangar will state right on the hangar (usually) exactly what nails to use. And some of them require 16 penny nails in all holes. Not teco nails as you show.
My joists are notched on the end. Is it resting on the sill ??
NSM Construction the end of my joists have a notch cut out and is resting on a ledge. There are no joist hangers. Are the joists resting on the sill plate? They are not toenailed to the rim joist.
NSM Construction I guess so. Hmmm. I will probably post a video later and you can see what I’m talking about.
Awesome
If you are going to use hangers anyway, it seems like bad practice to put so many nails in the ends of boards.
I've gotten joist so twisted that the blocking had to be jumped on to try and straighten the joist.
That looks like the ceiling leading to the basement
American building techniques so different to NZ
confusing calling the joist header the rim joist.
That's what it's called.
He's no Larry Haun with that hammer but hey.
Auhm
Do not block with such a short span, 12' maybe, it introduces new problems...
We stopped using nails 2000 years ago.
Please remember to wear your hard hats in a garage with nothing to fall on you 😂😂😂😂