Yo,, I got you here. Do the 20 brake stomp nvram reset after you unplug the battery - this will reset nvram and fuel trims. There’s a specific procedure ; from cold start, let the car warm until fans turn on and back off. Then turn car off, then back on. Let car run in N for 7 minutes. Drive in each gear for 30+ seconds and that has helped my idle hunting issues in the past. I have new oem motor mounts (less than 1500mi) and have run with Bennett built ignition coils and bhr coils, both with new plugs and noticed vibrations when rpm’s drop below 800. I’ve even seen people tune the car to idle at 1100 for less vibrations
Also check your air filter, try cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor, idk if RX8s have one but the idle air control valve/sensor. Those could also cause a flutter in how the car idles.
You are going to kill your Series One fuel pump if you continue to drive the car at low fuel tank levels. The Series One Fuel pump needs that gas surrounding it to stay cool, and heat shortens the life of that Series One fuel pump and its hoses. That was one of the Mazda recalls to replace the hoses in that Series One Fuel pump that deteriorate over time from heat. Low fuel tank levels leave that pump exposed out of the cooling fuel. You wont believe me until that pump dies on you, and with no warning leaves you stranded I guess. Then you will have to sit and wait for the pump to cool down before it will work again. I had it happen on a lonely stretch of I-95, and again in the middle of a busy intersection!! Countless other RX8 owners experienced the same thing. I did a swap to a OEM Mazda Series Two fuel pump, a different and improved design from a different maker, and that solved it all. That Series One fuel pump is crap and way under-engineered. Mazda realized that and bought a much better one from a different fuel pump maker for the Series Two RX8. Young guns dont ever think we veteran rotary and RX8 drivers know anything, LOL.. FYI, I needed to change my 2008 RX8 40th Anniversary Edition motor mounts at 60K miles. Yours are much older, and you do a lot of touge. Cheers and best to you, enjoy your channel.
@@Rxjeikun It could still be motor mounts, less likely transmission mount. All it takes is one to be deteriorating to give you that vibration. They just dont last, from age and especially if you drive it spirited with lots of g-forces in turns. Remember change them all at the same time. BHR coils are bulletproof, it is NOT them. Starting the Engine • Starter • Battery • Engine Compression • Grounding Wires • Ignition Coils • Spark Plugs • Spark Plug Wires • Fuel Pump • Fuel Injectors Generating Power at Full Throttle • Ignition Coils • Spark Plugs • Spark Plug Wires • Engine Compression • E-Shaft Sensor (ESS) • Air Filter • Intake Valving • Throttle Body • Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) • Fuel Pump • Fuel Injectors • Catalytic Converter (Cat) Keeping the Engine at a Cruise • Ignition Coils • Spark Plugs • Spark Plug Wires • Engine Compression • E-Shaft Sensor (ESS) • Intake Valving • Throttle Body • Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) • Fuel Pump • Fuel Injectors • Front O2 sensor • Catalytic Converter (Cat) Keeping the Engine at an Idle • Ignition Coils • Spark Plugs • Spark Plug Wires • Engine Compression • E-Shaft Sensor (ESS) • Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) • Front O2 sensor • Catalytic Converter (Cat) • Intake Vaccum Cheers
Awesome video. Thanks for the content! Just replaced the plugs on mine, and up here in canada it cost me double that. You mentioned gap- do you know if those ngk iridiums are pre-gapped? My rotary guy said they were so i didnt bother looking into it more. Kinda curious whst you think
Yo,, I got you here. Do the 20 brake stomp nvram reset after you unplug the battery - this will reset nvram and fuel trims. There’s a specific procedure ; from cold start, let the car warm until fans turn on and back off. Then turn car off, then back on. Let car run in N for 7 minutes. Drive in each gear for 30+ seconds and that has helped my idle hunting issues in the past. I have new oem motor mounts (less than 1500mi) and have run with Bennett built ignition coils and bhr coils, both with new plugs and noticed vibrations when rpm’s drop below 800. I’ve even seen people tune the car to idle at 1100 for less vibrations
Bgm is so cool man❤
Also check your air filter, try cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor, idk if RX8s have one but the idle air control valve/sensor. Those could also cause a flutter in how the car idles.
My RX8 just did this recently. It ended up being the coils and plugs. It would bog down and stall sometimes
You are going to kill your Series One fuel pump if you continue to drive the car at low fuel tank levels. The Series One Fuel pump needs that gas surrounding it to stay cool, and heat shortens the life of that Series One fuel pump and its hoses. That was one of the Mazda recalls to replace the hoses in that Series One Fuel pump that deteriorate over time from heat. Low fuel tank levels leave that pump exposed out of the cooling fuel. You wont believe me until that pump dies on you, and with no warning leaves you stranded I guess. Then you will have to sit and wait for the pump to cool down before it will work again. I had it happen on a lonely stretch of I-95, and again in the middle of a busy intersection!! Countless other RX8 owners experienced the same thing. I did a swap to a OEM Mazda Series Two fuel pump, a different and improved design from a different maker, and that solved it all. That Series One fuel pump is crap and way under-engineered. Mazda realized that and bought a much better one from a different fuel pump maker for the Series Two RX8. Young guns dont ever think we veteran rotary and RX8 drivers know anything, LOL.. FYI, I needed to change my 2008 RX8 40th Anniversary Edition motor mounts at 60K miles. Yours are much older, and you do a lot of touge. Cheers and best to you, enjoy your channel.
Sounds like ik what my next reliability mod is! But first gotta fix this vibration I'm dealing with 😫
I love this post. This is valuable knowledge. Thank you!
@@Rxjeikun It could still be motor mounts, less likely transmission mount. All it takes is one to be deteriorating to give you that vibration. They just dont last, from age and especially if you drive it spirited with lots of g-forces in turns. Remember change them all at the same time. BHR coils are bulletproof, it is NOT them.
Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
Generating Power at Full Throttle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Air Filter
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
Keeping the Engine at a Cruise
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
Keeping the Engine at an Idle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
• Intake Vaccum
Cheers
@@Rxjeikun yes check all mounts, but also check the throttle body and clean your MAF.
0:50 yo he didn’t have to flame you like that lol
😂😂
Awesome video. Thanks for the content! Just replaced the plugs on mine, and up here in canada it cost me double that. You mentioned gap- do you know if those ngk iridiums are pre-gapped? My rotary guy said they were so i didnt bother looking into it more. Kinda curious whst you think
They definitely do come pre-gapped but I usually check anyways cause it could've been moved during shipping 👀
@Jeikun. Haha well... 😅
They are pre gapped, no worries
@6gwilliams thank you kindly. I did look at them and they weren't abnormal looking as if they'd been dropped.