Great video. A little tip from personal experience: Anytime you are running any kind of connection cable through a wall, over time you are probably going to need to run ANOTHER cable. So whenever I run a cable through, I tie a length of twine through it and leave it dangling at both ends. Later, if I need to fish another line through, I tie it (and another run of twine!) to the twine and pull.
I did that in a 50' cable tray running up the side of an air traffic control tower. Years later an installation team found my "pull cable" and they said "hey, somebody did us a favor and we don't need to open the tray and use ladders to lay our cable in, we can just pull it." I then said "you're welcome." It was an trick that I had learned years earlier from an old-timer when I was the "young guy" climbing towers.
Yes that works great. I also just use the HDMI cord itself. Pull it when only 1 ft sticks out at top, connect another wire to bottom, pull it up with the hdmi already in the wall. I will mention both methods next video I make. 👍
I’m so glad you ran into a fire block. The reason why is, I always wanted to see how you did it. I went through the whole video without skipping it. I really enjoy seeing you mounting up TVs, even if it done the same way all the time. It’s always new to me. I look forward to more mounting TVs videos 💪🏾. Great video, I’m always learning 👍🏿
Yeah well this guy is showing you how NOT to do it. He’s cutting a hole in the wall that is not needed at all. There are drill bits you can use to cut the hole in the fire block from his upper hole he already cut in. Don’t blindly believe everything you see on here … find more videos.
After watching this video I ordered a power bridge for my replacement tv install. Easy install. I already had the wall mount installed but I didn’t like the wires out in the open. I’m so happy that I was able to hide the wires. Looks like a professional installation. I’m going to order another one and redo my bedroom install
The first thing I thought when you said fire block was this: Before you start, use a stud finder to check for fire blocks. If you still want to mount it in that location go ahead and proceed with what you showed or you might want to mount in a different location. If you’re good at drywall, why not just cut a slice down the middle, run the wires and then drywall over that. We did this for some wires to a thermostat but first we ran them through a piece of PVC to protect the wires. I’ve also use PVC pipe to hold the cords when we started with a wall that hadn’t been drywalled yet. Makes it much easier to snake or remove and resnake wires. Nice video skilz 👍🏽
So sweet it will give you a cavity!! You just saved me 600.00 labor for an electrician. Looks so easy I'm going to tackle it myself. I never heard of the power bridge, and they are in stock at Home Depot!! Much respect!!
Great video, I didn't have all the tools to mount my TV and was too lazy to go buy them. So I paid an old handyman I know to do it. He came with nothing but a cordless drill and a pencil. I asked where his level, tape measurer & stud finder were. He laughed and said "I don't need those fancy things" I'd never heard anyone refer to a tape measure and level as fancy lol. When I realized he was serious and didn't have them I asked "How you gonna measure then?" "Don't worry, I'll eyeball it perfectly, just trust me." He knocked on the wall in a few places to find the studs, took a step back and figured out the positioning with his thumbs and went to work. I was worried to say the least, but he got the TV mounted straight and if it's not exactly where I told him I wanted it, I sure can't tell. I don't recommend his methods at all, this video's the perfect how-to. Just wanted to say watching someone who's been doing handyman work for 50 years in action is really something else.
I'm not going to lie you are one of the best installers on youtube, I'll put my hand to a few jobs around the house, when i put my first tv up in the bedroom it took me 3 months a lot of cussin and my son laughing at me a lot, as i really didn't plan anything I jus bought a bracket and thew the thing on the wall. I didn't know about walls or anything like that and I did make a lot of holes of various sizes in the wall, that was before your videos, but i've watched a few of your installs and I was able to move my bracket and fit a 65inch tv on the wall and fill all the holes all in about 20 minutes, thanks to you and your videos, keep it up your a diamond and your helper is pretty good as well Dee in the UK
Just a suggestion to avoid drywall repairs when coming across a fire block. What I find best is a auger style flex bit. You can find them in various sizes and lengths. Our most common lengths used is a 4ft and 8ft auger flex bit. It allows you to easily manage the position from an angle and chews right threw the fire block.
@@BTheInstaller that’s true and something I thought about afterwards. These flexible auger bits can be pricey. Especially for a one time use for a home owner that doesn’t do this every day like us.
This is a good tip. I usually don’t accept jobs in that require the kit or don’t pay enough for an electrical outlet because I can’t get the fat part of the plug from my Sanus kit through the fireblock. I use spade bits with a 1/4” drive because I can put it in my right angle attachment but I’m gonna stop at home depot and look at some auger bits. Don’t know why that never crossed my mind.
@@christophercrawford2736 we were in the same boat. Doing the most with what we had. We looked into an auger bit and it’s been a game changer. Especially if you’re drilling directly down. Just make sure your drill doesn’t swing around and smack you. Lol it’s happened a few times.
Excellent PowerBridge video. For us everyday Joe's, I think it's clear and concise, and showing how to deal with firewall obstacles and mount is cherry on top. Thanks for taking the time to make this video 👌
They actually make repair plugs on mesh tape backing that you cut to size, stick to wall, and mud right over. This fills the void, stops the shrinkage and cracking of the mud, thus saving time of extra coats.
I can't believe this showed up in recommendations! The GF just bought a new couch set and I have to relocate TV and she demanded NO CORDS! Great video!!
Personally, I do not like to locate the receptacle inside the frame of an articulating mount. I find that cables often prevent full retraction of the mount and or put cords in harms way. I much prefer to locate the receptacle above or below and sometimes even beside depending on size and situation. Below is best IMHO because if a cable comes loose or sags, it is typically still out of harms way. Obviously the location can be changed to accommodate different circumstances and use cases. Hope that makes sense! Love your vids and keep up the good work!
I would recommend having a lead string put in so that if you want to add more wires after it is installed. All you have to do is tie the lead to one end of the wire and pull thru (granted you probably want a larger hole in the fire block). To note if you are going to add a wire and use the lead after the fact, I would also recommend tying another string to the wire being installed, to leave after the fact. It will make your life much easier in the future.
Just so anyone doesn't make the same mistake I did. If you like to max out the angle and extension away from the wall, and are running long cables from a router or other device, be sure to add that extra length to your cables before you buy them. Nothing more annoying than getting everything hooked up and you realize you can't pull the tv away from the wall as far as you like because those cables are a little just a little too short.
This the best way imo to run the data, power & speaker lines. After doing 2x of these I could never be so lazy to not do it. It really bothers me when I see someone else’s TV setup w/lines just hanging below the tv. Awful. Great work here! 🤩💯💰🔥🇺🇸👊🏼
Great video "B!" I would have added a few small things as well. First, I would have used the bottom plug of the duplex outlet near the floor for the Powerbridge cord, to still allow use of the upper plug for a vacuum cleaner...etc. Second, I would have installed a small power strip (4-6 outlets) behind the TV, that has RF suppressors, so that there is not much chance of piking up 60 cycle hum, or any radio stations that might be near by. I am also a little concerned with the duct on the wall above the right side of the TV. In the summer, that duct might have a little condensation from the AC dripping on the TV.
Powerbridge is a great solution, good step by step for the DYI. One tip that I almost learned the hard way, check the opposite side of the wall. You might find some plumbing or electrical that screws your placement. I was about a half inch below my sink drainline my first install. Worked out fine but was almost a painful repair.
I’ve used the Datacomm version of the power bridge for all my tv installs. Same idea. Very easy. Way cheaper than hiring an electrician, and safer than wiring it yourself.
I’ve used the PowerBridge, DataComm, and Commercial Electric stuff a few times but by far I prefer the Sanus kit that I’ve used on almost all of my installs. Although now that I no longer work for a company that requires that we use the kits, I usually just make an electrical outlet for a cleaner look.
Good clear instructions. I mounted my 50" plasma in 2013 and was surprised at the terrible quality of the bolts the mount came with for mounting the bracket to the wall, luckily I had some decent hardware of my own.
Omg this was absolutely what I was looking for to hide my tv wires without getting all complicated and needing to hire an electrician!!! Thank you for this video and all the detailed steps!
Saw some similar things on Amazon to hide the cables and will probably do something similar eventually. I finally got my own home in 2012 and was really hesitant to put holes in a perfect wall but I got over it and wall mounted my first 55 inch 4k TV in 2016 and one more since in the same spot. I think my mount is a heavy duty Mounting Dreams full motion mount as well. It can handle 132lbs and is really well built for a good price, plus it can use 24" studs. I really like mine better than the 35 dollar ebay special that worked fine but just wasn't as well made all around. Thanks for the tutorial, I have a few places I should repair the drywall now too but they are hidden.
You could use a 4” hole saw at the center of the fire block, keep the cut piece from the saw, then cut out a small channel vertically on the block, fish the wire from top to bottom ( the 4” hole will allow fishing from top and reinserting below the block). Continue as you normally do then simply screw the disk of sheet rock to the fire block, and you can actually use caulking to seal the disk to the original wall,,,,,,,no taping necessary,,,,,,simply paint,,,,,
Was thinking the same. You can also use this trick when there's no block or stud behind it: simply put a screw partially in the centre of it, use it to hold the disk in place when applying the caulking, remove the screw and fill the small hole.
If you put the hole high enough behind the tv, you could just put a blank plate on it. I would recommend, just cutting a clean square. This would allow you to put the cut out back in the wall.
I need to buy a 32" TV. I watched a few of your TH-cam's and am confident you will be able to recommend a TV that I should buy. The TV will be in our bedroom. 32" because that is the size that will replace our TV now. Thank you very much, Laurence Pederson
That's exactly what I need for my bedroom TV only I'll need to find someone to help me lift and mount the TV as I'm a disabled veteran. Great instructional video!
When using the stud finder look for studs and any fire blocks. Also, could use the drywall cut outs to help fill any holes created to get to the block.
Not to be harsh critic, but to already have to do sheetrock damage because of the wall block, that in my opinion makes this cheap aftermarket product obsolete. If I'm repairing sheetrock, I'm doing the rest of the job right with ZERO exterior cables. BUT you did a great job explaining everything!
The quick quick on this is awesome. I installed several similar kits that use normal blocks and romex in electrical boxes. A lot cheaper but a lot more work. This kit is awesome gonna order a couple of them.
Great video. I installed the TV mount first since it must be where the studs are, so it should get priority placement. Also, I think I would put the lower box closer to the power outlet, if the cable is long enough
They really come in handy I had to run a power block in my last home I had learn about fire block and how to get around it them on my own . Moving into my new home I made sure power outlets was in place so I would not have to run a power block through a fireplace..
most people wallhang the TV center to the wall but thats is to high unless you watch TV standing up. its not the end of the world to put it up high but you will reduce eye strain and neck aches and have a much more comfotable expreance if you put it a bit lower.
Dude, I haven't even seen the video and I know I'm going to like it, but i have a question, a hard one. What would be your solution to concrete walls, with mortar and clay/concrete blocks? How would you hide cables in a setup like that with no pre-run in-wall pvc conduits? With regard to patching up the hole, i highly recommend using a hole saw the next time. The hole saw cuts out a piece of drywall that fits exactly in the hole. A piece of drywall paper and a little mud for adhesion and its way less messy with less mud being slapped in the hole and potentially interacting with the cables and creating a mess back there.
I did a similar jobs like this but another thing that I do is that when I’m feeding an HDMI wire or an optical wire through a path I always tape the ends of those wire to protect it, then take the tape off when it’s through.
Thank you very much ! Your instructions for installing this power bridge in the wall was immaculate. My project finished super clean and I used your instructions to mount my 85 inch Sony Bravia tv . Thanks man
Nice! Great video. I always bring and run (at least) a cat5 in the wall also. So many TVs (LG cough cough) have wifi issues later in life and this helps provide a quick solution that's easily affordable.
The power bridge is up to code, normally that means the wiring is fire resistant and/or the coating of the wiring is strong and can resist cuts and damage in wall. Mostly the fire resistance tho. The tv power cord has none of that and could accelerate a fire.
Great video! I don't understand why you didn't just use a long 1.5" paddle bit? The fire block was only 11 inches down. If you messed up the upper hole for the receptical box behind the TV, then you could just use a small piece of wood (pre-drilled so it doesn't crack) as a backer board. Then mudded just the screw holes from the backer board directly below the receptical cover... Seems like a ton of work when you cut that hole!
U can't run power cord behind the wall but there is still a white power cord in 2 pieces how that is approved by building code. Basically it js just an extension cord with fancy wall mounted outlet plugs. It is so easy if some companies can just make 6 feet extension cord 14/12 gauge nicely insulated and heat/cold resistant and EPA approved. It would have been lot easier n cheaper then and use the $17 Home Depot kit to make round holes with rubber covers and run all those wires
I prefer the Sanus kit over the PowerBridge kit. And as far as measuring for the TV mount plate, I always measure to the top hole, except in very rare situations, so that I’m measuring to exactly where I’m going to start drilling. No extra math or measurements needed in that case. Another note on marking the holes for the mount and for the in wall concealment kit; I always fasten the plate to the wall first and then I just put my in-wall kit to the left or right of it, usually based on whichever side the A/V cables are coming from. And I only mark the stud/height of the top hole for one of the holes, put the lag bolt in and level it, then drill out the rest of the holes and lag those bolts in too. No need to try to balance a heavy full motion mount with one hand and much quicker/less steps in my opinion with a tilting/fixed bracket.
That does look better. I've got HDMI cables along with the power cables and simply just doing the power doesn't really do much for the whole look. Perhaps if you're using a smart TV's apps to play streaming music a power only option would be reasonable, but for the rest of us, we really need to route the other cables as well.
For the fireblock I am lazy and just cut a square box out abover or below the block and install a old work box and blank plate or add another power outlet for a nightlight. No drywall repair. Its not really that noticeable depending where it is. I also just make a hole in the back of the lower box to run the wire and hook right to the old outlet. I guess this is more user friendly though.
@@AlejandroTaylorEscribano all you need is tapcons and washers…. If it is a hollow behind the brick, use toggle bolts with the plastic that breaks off, good for like 125lbs per, id rate closer to 75lb per
Thank you very much for the help! I'm about to buy a Sony x95j with a 5.1 system. This video is very helpful for my tv and my center+front speakers. That being said, if I want both surround speakers on my left and right, how do I hide the wires? Pretty long way to go... Thanks again for the video! :-)
You created a right awkward situation the way you drilled the fire stop from above AND it might be plasterboard which is easy to patch BUT it’s a textured finish!That isn’t easy to repair especially for a house holder!
First, I really enjoy your videos! I will be installing a LG 77” OLED G3 using the LG TV Bracket. Do I need a special Wire management/power outlet unit since the LG Bracket positions the TV flat against the wall? If so, can you recommend one? Thank you!
If you get a mount for 24" on center studs, you have a lot more wiggle room side to side, for mounting a tv when your studs are 16" center studs. Just get a 24" on center mount, that has mounting holes that run the entire width of the mount, like every inch or so, across the top and bottom.
If you use a hole drill instead of a spade bit you will have a good space for the drilling and then you use the piece of drywall from the hole saw to do a very simple repair. No problem with the texture, either. I’m afraid every drywall professional will be pulling out their hair with your drywall repair. I am also surprise that putting what is essentially an extension cord inside a wall is code.
Just bought the LG C2 77" TV. After watching your video, can I use the same Mountain dream mount that you put on your wall ?My studs measure 16". The LG weight is 47 lbs. If I can, what is the model number. If I can't use your model can you advise which Mountain dream wall mount I should order? This tv will be in my bedroom. I'll be ordering the Power Bridge at the same time. Thanks.
Overall great video! My only nitpicks are 1) move the HDMI cord up and out of the way when using the box cutter and mud. 2) decide what color you want the plugs & cover plates, white or almond. Then be consistent, even if it requires replacing existing.
Would it have been proper - when repairing the dry wall hole to add a little spray of texture so that it doesn't show a smooth drywall patch and splatter wall original all around the circumference of the hole? One never knows when the TV would come down (ie. new tenants) and it's an eyesore. It might be a bit picky, but one does want to complete a corrected patch. Also, did you leave it to the homeowner to do the painting thereafter for the hole caused by the installer? Matching the paint is crucial as well. 8-)
😮Get a longer drill bit would have been my first choice. Fire blocks are typically at 8 foot , I would've called it a lead in that the framers put in to straighten up the wall .
Good tip is to feed a long plastic tongue (Cable feeder) and you can zigzag or go back and forward feeding cables up and down without pulling the tongue out, it makes things super quick!
Wow I really should have watched your video back in December when I bought my TV, 😢. But instead I left all the fancy mounting brackets in the box because it was too confusing 😂. And went with the old articulating bracket and finished in 15 minutes lol.
Been wanting to do structured wiring my whole home yes, I know that's gonna be costly but I still wanna do it. Has this been an idea if yours? And who do you recommend to go with?
I'm wondering if the 1" wide connector would allow the wires to be removed and reinserted. If so, I would have removed the wide connector so I could drill smaller hole through the fire block to run wires through. I would have used a flex bit to drill through the block.
If you didn't realize whether or not you had a fireblock (horizontal stud between 2 vertical studs for support), perhaps you could have a "magnetic detector" to search for sheetrock nails which would indicate a stud is going sideways and therefore, would have chosen a spot to the right or left of that 16" vertical stud cavity. Right? 8-)
awesome video. I want to wall mount tv to an exterior wall that does not have 3.5 inches of clearance behind it for the powerbridge. Any advice? Much appreciated
What’s the best way to hook up your tv to watch movies/shows? We use our XBox (Prime and Netflix) sitting on a console table underneath the new to us 56” or so 11 y/o plasma tv. Wires are very unsightly. Also my two ways of patching a hole larger than a quarter is cut the hole into a square make a drywall patch the same size but originally twice as large with the facing paper still attached with the little square on the other side. The other way is the mesh patches they sell at lowes /Home Depot. I
I Love This B!!!! Even Though I Have More Like Concrete or Cement Walls, How Would Hide Speaker Wires ( I Don't Know if U Work With Home Theater Stuff or So, But If U Have Anything That Is Remotely, The Same As The Other Set U Just Showed For HDMI Cables, I Would Love For U To Make a Video about ( Hiding Speaker Wires 🔊) It , Peace ✌
When u prep for a job u do a costing then add additional funds based on unforeseen contingencies... this would allow for saving time in completing the job, and ease in completing a job... u put ur markings on the drywall, u cut the entire piece out then replace it... that easier and less time
Hey B - I have a question about placement for an Atmos Soundbar (LG or Sonos Arc) - I'm thinking using an attached bracket to the mount (so directly beneath with a snug fit) or spaced 6" from the tv below and mounted to the wall or rested on the media console below. in each case of the mounts, I know the sound bar needs to extend a bit to clear the TV. Is there any advice or thoughts on the different options - what do you find to be the best look ? thanks
Some romex from the existing receptacle knockouts could be run from there over and up to an upper "remodel" duplex box that have the exact same wings on them. No lower box needed but would be best to put one there to make fishing the romex easier plus an extra receptacle could be put there vs. a blank plate. The only difference would be that this set up has a recessed plug space if it is needed vs. flush like any other home receptacle. Must less cost too likely. Most homes will have those fire blocks so plan on them at that height.
Thank you for the video explanation, I just want to add if either lg or Sony don’t release a consumer grade micro/crystal led tv, with vrr, allm, and 4K 120hz, next year. I may just skip out buying a tv, fir a while assuming my old Samsung ks still works, since I don’t want to waste money on something that will not be a great tv, I also can’t trust oled, so I will probably never buy an oled, as long as burn in is still a slight concern. I just wanted to add after watching CES 2022 I will consider a 4K Sony X95k, this year, or even the Z9k, depending on the price, VRR support for Xbox, and how well the backlight master drive works….
What I did was move the entire electrical box up behind the tv and plugged it right into there. It avoids having those cables down below that you'll end up wanting to cover up.
Great video.
A little tip from personal experience: Anytime you are running any kind of connection cable through a wall, over time you are probably going to need to run ANOTHER cable. So whenever I run a cable through, I tie a length of twine through it and leave it dangling at both ends. Later, if I need to fish another line through, I tie it (and another run of twine!) to the twine and pull.
Great tip!!
I did that in a 50' cable tray running up the side of an air traffic control tower. Years later an installation team found my "pull cable" and they said "hey, somebody did us a favor and we don't need to open the tray and use ladders to lay our cable in, we can just pull it."
I then said "you're welcome."
It was an trick that I had learned years earlier from an old-timer when I was the
"young guy" climbing towers.
Yes that works great. I also just use the HDMI cord itself. Pull it when only 1 ft sticks out at top, connect another wire to bottom, pull it up with the hdmi already in the wall. I will mention both methods next video I make. 👍
I’m so glad you ran into a fire block. The reason why is, I always wanted to see how you did it. I went through the whole video without skipping it. I really enjoy seeing you mounting up TVs, even if it done the same way all the time. It’s always new to me. I look forward to more mounting TVs videos 💪🏾. Great video, I’m always learning 👍🏿
Yeah well this guy is showing you how NOT to do it. He’s cutting a hole in the wall that is not needed at all. There are drill bits you can use to cut the hole in the fire block from his upper hole he already cut in. Don’t blindly believe everything you see on here … find more videos.
@@chriss8718 thank you my brother thanks 🙏🏾
After watching this video I ordered a power bridge for my replacement tv install. Easy install. I already had the wall mount installed but I didn’t like the wires out in the open. I’m so happy that I was able to hide the wires. Looks like a professional installation. I’m going to order another one and redo my bedroom install
The first thing I thought when you said fire block was this: Before you start, use a stud finder to check for fire blocks. If you still want to mount it in that location go ahead and proceed with what you showed or you might want to mount in a different location.
If you’re good at drywall, why not just cut a slice down the middle, run the wires and then drywall over that. We did this for some wires to a thermostat but first we ran them through a piece of PVC to protect the wires.
I’ve also use PVC pipe to hold the cords when we started with a wall that hadn’t been drywalled yet. Makes it much easier to snake or remove and resnake wires.
Nice video skilz 👍🏽
So sweet it will give you a cavity!! You just saved me 600.00 labor for an electrician. Looks so easy I'm going to tackle it myself. I never heard of the power bridge, and they are in stock at Home Depot!! Much respect!!
Great video, I didn't have all the tools to mount my TV and was too lazy to go buy them. So I paid an old handyman I know to do it. He came with nothing but a cordless drill and a pencil. I asked where his level, tape measurer & stud finder were. He laughed and said "I don't need those fancy things" I'd never heard anyone refer to a tape measure and level as fancy lol. When I realized he was serious and didn't have them I asked
"How you gonna measure then?"
"Don't worry, I'll eyeball it perfectly, just trust me."
He knocked on the wall in a few places to find the studs, took a step back and figured out the positioning with his thumbs and went to work.
I was worried to say the least, but he got the TV mounted straight and if it's not exactly where I told him I wanted it, I sure can't tell. I don't recommend his methods at all, this video's the perfect how-to. Just wanted to say watching someone who's been doing handyman work for 50 years in action is really something else.
I'm not going to lie you are one of the best installers on youtube, I'll put my hand to a few jobs around the house, when i put my first tv up in the bedroom it took me 3 months a lot of cussin and my son laughing at me a lot, as i really didn't plan anything I jus bought a bracket and thew the thing on the wall. I didn't know about walls or anything like that and I did make a lot of holes of various sizes in the wall, that was before your videos, but i've watched a few of your installs and I was able to move my bracket and fit a 65inch tv on the wall and fill all the holes all in about 20 minutes, thanks to you and your videos, keep it up your a diamond and your helper is pretty good as well
Dee in the UK
Just a suggestion to avoid drywall repairs when coming across a fire block. What I find best is a auger style flex bit. You can find them in various sizes and lengths. Our most common lengths used is a 4ft and 8ft auger flex bit. It allows you to easily manage the position from an angle and chews right threw the fire block.
I was thinking the same thing. There no reason not to use a Auger bit and just fish it down.
Yes, it would work. Harder for a home owner and to recommend they do it with limited experience and visibility of what's in wall.
@@BTheInstaller that’s true and something I thought about afterwards. These flexible auger bits can be pricey. Especially for a one time use for a home owner that doesn’t do this every day like us.
This is a good tip. I usually don’t accept jobs in that require the kit or don’t pay enough for an electrical outlet because I can’t get the fat part of the plug from my Sanus kit through the fireblock. I use spade bits with a 1/4” drive because I can put it in my right angle attachment but I’m gonna stop at home depot and look at some auger bits. Don’t know why that never crossed my mind.
@@christophercrawford2736 we were in the same boat. Doing the most with what we had. We looked into an auger bit and it’s been a game changer. Especially if you’re drilling directly down. Just make sure your drill doesn’t swing around and smack you. Lol it’s happened a few times.
Excellent PowerBridge video. For us everyday Joe's, I think it's clear and concise, and showing how to deal with firewall obstacles and mount is cherry on top. Thanks for taking the time to make this video 👌
They actually make repair plugs on mesh tape backing that you cut to size, stick to wall, and mud right over. This fills the void, stops the shrinkage and cracking of the mud, thus saving time of extra coats.
I can't believe this showed up in recommendations! The GF just bought a new couch set and I have to relocate TV and she demanded NO CORDS! Great video!!
Personally, I do not like to locate the receptacle inside the frame of an articulating mount. I find that cables often prevent full retraction of the mount and or put cords in harms way. I much prefer to locate the receptacle above or below and sometimes even beside depending on size and situation. Below is best IMHO because if a cable comes loose or sags, it is typically still out of harms way. Obviously the location can be changed to accommodate different circumstances and use cases. Hope that makes sense! Love your vids and keep up the good work!
I would recommend having a lead string put in so that if you want to add more wires after it is installed. All you have to do is tie the lead to one end of the wire and pull thru (granted you probably want a larger hole in the fire block).
To note if you are going to add a wire and use the lead after the fact, I would also recommend tying another string to the wire being installed, to leave after the fact. It will make your life much easier in the future.
Just so anyone doesn't make the same mistake I did. If you like to max out the angle and extension away from the wall, and are running long cables from a router or other device, be sure to add that extra length to your cables before you buy them. Nothing more annoying than getting everything hooked up and you realize you can't pull the tv away from the wall as far as you like because those cables are a little just a little too short.
This the best way imo to run the data, power & speaker lines. After doing 2x of these I could never be so lazy to not do it. It really bothers me when I see someone else’s TV setup w/lines just hanging below the tv. Awful. Great work here! 🤩💯💰🔥🇺🇸👊🏼
Great video "B!" I would have added a few small things as well. First, I would have used the bottom plug of the duplex outlet near the floor for the Powerbridge cord, to still allow use of the upper plug for a vacuum cleaner...etc. Second, I would have installed a small power strip (4-6 outlets) behind the TV, that has RF suppressors, so that there is not much chance of piking up 60 cycle hum, or any radio stations that might be near by. I am also a little concerned with the duct on the wall above the right side of the TV. In the summer, that duct might have a little condensation from the AC dripping on the TV.
Powerbridge is a great solution, good step by step for the DYI. One tip that I almost learned the hard way, check the opposite side of the wall. You might find some plumbing or electrical that screws your placement. I was about a half inch below my sink drainline my first install. Worked out fine but was almost a painful repair.
Yeah that is a good tip. The worst is when you make the top holes and then the bottom and the bottom is literally a drain or metal pipe.
I’ve used the Datacomm version of the power bridge for all my tv installs. Same idea. Very easy. Way cheaper than hiring an electrician, and safer than wiring it yourself.
I’ve used the PowerBridge, DataComm, and Commercial Electric stuff a few times but by far I prefer the Sanus kit that I’ve used on almost all of my installs. Although now that I no longer work for a company that requires that we use the kits, I usually just make an electrical outlet for a cleaner look.
Just have a brother that’s an electrician 😂
Good clear instructions.
I mounted my 50" plasma in 2013 and was surprised at the terrible quality of the bolts the mount came with for mounting the bracket to the wall, luckily I had some decent hardware of my own.
I'm surprised it didn't take your wall down. Plasmas are as heavy as CRTs.
Omg this was absolutely what I was looking for to hide my tv wires without getting all complicated and needing to hire an electrician!!! Thank you for this video and all the detailed steps!
Saw some similar things on Amazon to hide the cables and will probably do something similar eventually. I finally got my own home in 2012 and was really hesitant to put holes in a perfect wall but I got over it and wall mounted my first 55 inch 4k TV in 2016 and one more since in the same spot. I think my mount is a heavy duty Mounting Dreams full motion mount as well. It can handle 132lbs and is really well built for a good price, plus it can use 24" studs. I really like mine better than the 35 dollar ebay special that worked fine but just wasn't as well made all around.
Thanks for the tutorial, I have a few places I should repair the drywall now too but they are hidden.
You could use a 4” hole saw at the center of the fire block, keep the cut piece from the saw, then cut out a small channel vertically on the block, fish the wire from top to bottom ( the 4” hole will allow fishing from top and reinserting below the block). Continue as you normally do then simply screw the disk of sheet rock to the fire block, and you can actually use caulking to seal the disk to the original wall,,,,,,,no taping necessary,,,,,,simply paint,,,,,
Was thinking the same. You can also use this trick when there's no block or stud behind it: simply put a screw partially in the centre of it, use it to hold the disk in place when applying the caulking, remove the screw and fill the small hole.
Damn that’s a good idea 👍
If you put the hole high enough behind the tv, you could just put a blank plate on it.
I would recommend, just cutting a clean square. This would allow you to put the cut out back in the wall.
This is brilliant. I did not notice the use of wallplugs, can you advise please?
This video has made me appreciate TV stands on a whole new level. I'm going to keep my TV on a stand, thank you!
I need to buy a 32" TV. I watched a few of your TH-cam's and am confident you will be able to recommend a TV that I should buy. The TV will be in our bedroom. 32" because that is the size that will replace our TV now. Thank you very much, Laurence Pederson
That's exactly what I need for my bedroom TV only I'll need to find someone to help me lift and mount the TV as I'm a disabled veteran. Great instructional video!
Just hanged my TV and used this box/adapter to hide the cables. Best choice ever. Super easy, thanks for the suggestion!
When using the stud finder look for studs and any fire blocks. Also, could use the drywall cut outs to help fill any holes created to get to the block.
Not to be harsh critic, but to already have to do sheetrock damage because of the wall block, that in my opinion makes this cheap aftermarket product obsolete. If I'm repairing sheetrock, I'm doing the rest of the job right with ZERO exterior cables. BUT you did a great job explaining everything!
The quick quick on this is awesome. I installed several similar kits that use normal blocks and romex in electrical boxes. A lot cheaper but a lot more work. This kit is awesome gonna order a couple of them.
This is a very comprehensive how to video for a professional television installation. Thanks Brandon. Excellent use of my TH-cam viewing time.
📺📺✌✌
Great video. I installed the TV mount first since it must be where the studs are, so it should get priority placement.
Also, I think I would put the lower box closer to the power outlet, if the cable is long enough
They really come in handy I had to run a power block in my last home I had learn about fire block and how to get around it them on my own . Moving into my new home I made sure power outlets was in place so I would not have to run a power block through a fireplace..
most people wallhang the TV center to the wall but thats is to high unless you watch TV standing up.
its not the end of the world to put it up high but you will reduce eye
strain and neck aches and have a much more comfotable expreance if you
put it a bit lower.
Dude, I haven't even seen the video and I know I'm going to like it, but i have a question, a hard one. What would be your solution to concrete walls, with mortar and clay/concrete blocks? How would you hide cables in a setup like that with no pre-run in-wall pvc conduits?
With regard to patching up the hole, i highly recommend using a hole saw the next time. The hole saw cuts out a piece of drywall that fits exactly in the hole. A piece of drywall paper and a little mud for adhesion and its way less messy with less mud being slapped in the hole and potentially interacting with the cables and creating a mess back there.
Nice little diy solution. If you haven't already installed the sonos, would love to see a video on that as well. Thanks brother!
I did a similar jobs like this but another thing that I do is that when I’m feeding an HDMI wire or an optical wire through a path I always tape the ends of those wire to protect it, then take the tape off when it’s through.
I used the tape method too! LoL
Thank you very much ! Your instructions for installing this power bridge in the wall was immaculate. My project finished super clean and I used your instructions to mount my 85 inch Sony Bravia tv . Thanks man
Nice! Great video. I always bring and run (at least) a cat5 in the wall also. So many TVs (LG cough cough) have wifi issues later in life and this helps provide a quick solution that's easily affordable.
Great video. Why is it dangerous to run the power cable of TV directly behind wall? They hardly get warm. Doesnt the power bridge have the same risk?
The power bridge is up to code, normally that means the wiring is fire resistant and/or the coating of the wiring is strong and can resist cuts and damage in wall. Mostly the fire resistance tho. The tv power cord has none of that and could accelerate a fire.
Great video! I don't understand why you didn't just use a long 1.5" paddle bit? The fire block was only 11 inches down. If you messed up the upper hole for the receptical box behind the TV, then you could just use a small piece of wood (pre-drilled so it doesn't crack) as a backer board. Then mudded just the screw holes from the backer board directly below the receptical cover... Seems like a ton of work when you cut that hole!
You definitely don't know how to properly fix a drywall hole but, you do what you can. Nice install system, I might consider using it.
U can't run power cord behind the wall but there is still a white power cord in 2 pieces how that is approved by building code. Basically it js just an extension cord with fancy wall mounted outlet plugs. It is so easy if some companies can just make 6 feet extension cord 14/12 gauge nicely insulated and heat/cold resistant and EPA approved. It would have been lot easier n cheaper then and use the $17 Home Depot kit to make round holes with rubber covers and run all those wires
One of the best video I ever saw he doesn’t miss a step I feel very comfortable I can do this job thanks.
Great video, glad to see that you showed the fire block part as a lot of others either skip it or have the best luck.
This video greatly lowered my anxiety level towards mounting my TV. thanks
Why not use drywall that you cut out for power bridge to repair the hole you made for the fire block?
Your videos are superb, B. I even love the chapters which help me navigate to an appropriate point. Thanks for taking the time to do excellent videos.
Very nice Brandon. My wife and I will be installing a new 75 " TV soon . Your video will simplify the
install. Thanks!
I prefer the Sanus kit over the PowerBridge kit. And as far as measuring for the TV mount plate, I always measure to the top hole, except in very rare situations, so that I’m measuring to exactly where I’m going to start drilling. No extra math or measurements needed in that case.
Another note on marking the holes for the mount and for the in wall concealment kit; I always fasten the plate to the wall first and then I just put my in-wall kit to the left or right of it, usually based on whichever side the A/V cables are coming from. And I only mark the stud/height of the top hole for one of the holes, put the lag bolt in and level it, then drill out the rest of the holes and lag those bolts in too. No need to try to balance a heavy full motion mount with one hand and much quicker/less steps in my opinion with a tilting/fixed bracket.
That does look better. I've got HDMI cables along with the power cables and simply just doing the power doesn't really do much for the whole look. Perhaps if you're using a smart TV's apps to play streaming music a power only option would be reasonable, but for the rest of us, we really need to route the other cables as well.
@@SmallSpoonBrigade certainly a lot smaller than the one he used. PowerBridge also makes a smaller one.
Why can't they simply make walll in approved 6 to 8 feet extension cable just a stupid business
@@caliboy2498 technically you can. But the part coming out of the certainly wouldn’t be permitted by code to be outside of the wall.
@@christophercrawford2736 yes I understand but these kits also r just an extension cord with fancy plugs so what is the diff
For the fireblock I am lazy and just cut a square box out abover or below the block and install a old work box and blank plate or add another power outlet for a nightlight. No drywall repair. Its not really that noticeable depending where it is. I also just make a hole in the back of the lower box to run the wire and hook right to the old outlet. I guess this is more user friendly though.
The real challenge is mounting on a brick wall .Takes some skill for sure.
Any videos on this. I have this exact problem.
I'll start watching these videos when they tackle brick walls. The only solution is to chase the cables into the brickwork.
@@AlejandroTaylorEscribano all you need is tapcons and washers…. If it is a hollow behind the brick, use toggle bolts with the plastic that breaks off, good for like 125lbs per, id rate closer to 75lb per
@@BadHorsie1 as far as punching the block for cables, you could use an sds and a chisel
@@HardHeadMilitary what sort of bolts are you referring to? can u link them
Use of the dust pan...much appreciated I bet! Nice.
Thank you very much for the help! I'm about to buy a Sony x95j with a 5.1 system. This video is very helpful for my tv and my center+front speakers. That being said, if I want both surround speakers on my left and right, how do I hide the wires? Pretty long way to go... Thanks again for the video! :-)
You created a right awkward situation the way you drilled the fire stop from above AND it might be plasterboard which is easy to patch BUT it’s a textured finish!That isn’t easy to repair especially for a house holder!
First, I really enjoy your videos!
I will be installing a LG 77” OLED G3 using the LG TV Bracket. Do I need a special Wire management/power outlet unit since the LG Bracket positions the TV flat against the wall? If so, can you recommend one? Thank you!
You could use a flexible cable installer bit for the fire block as well. Less drywall repair but it's not without its own difficulty.
I'm a 60 year old lady I have done it twice . If I can do it you can do it. I just needed help to hang tv. My 12 and 13 year old kids helped me.
Awesome. 💪💪💪
Wow, you had one kid at 47 and other at 48?
Great.
If you get a mount for 24" on center studs, you have a lot more wiggle room side to side, for mounting a tv when your studs are 16" center studs. Just get a 24" on center mount, that has mounting holes that run the entire width of the mount, like every inch or so, across the top and bottom.
I like that dustpan trick...:)
Just recently got a job as a home theater installation cadet at Geek Squad, so I wanted to take a look at the LeGrand in wall installation
Watch his videos! You’ll learn a lot man! I’m actually. Double agent for geek Sqaud here in San Antonio, Texas
I have a LG G1 video hiding the legrand behind it. It's back a few months.
@@BTheInstaller Thank you. I’ll take a look at it in a moment
@@calvinperez6894 will do. I usually watch B’s videos for tv reviews, but I’m gonna be following his channel a lot now.
You did a fantastic job, with everything that could go wrong go wrong lol. But that air vent, how can you move it or make it less visible?
I think its about time someone did a video on the UK version of sockets - not everyone in the world who watches You Tube lives in USA.
If you use a hole drill instead of a spade bit you will have a good space for the drilling and then you use the piece of drywall from the hole saw to do a very simple repair. No problem with the texture, either. I’m afraid every drywall professional will be pulling out their hair with your drywall repair. I am also surprise that putting what is essentially an extension cord inside a wall is code.
Just bought the LG C2 77" TV. After watching your video, can I use the same Mountain dream mount that you put on your wall ?My studs measure 16". The LG weight is 47 lbs. If I can, what is the model number. If I can't use your model can you advise which Mountain dream wall mount I should order? This tv will be in my bedroom. I'll be ordering the Power Bridge at the same time. Thanks.
One good thing about this is that you now install a decent surge suppressor in between to protect high end TV's like the new G3 I just got.
Marking walls with white chalk helps to avoid eraser marks...one tip I just learned
Overall great video!
My only nitpicks are
1) move the HDMI cord up and out of the way when using the box cutter and mud.
2) decide what color you want the plugs & cover plates, white or almond. Then be consistent, even if it requires replacing existing.
Would it have been proper - when repairing the dry wall hole to add a little spray of texture so that it doesn't show a smooth drywall patch and splatter wall original all around the circumference of the hole? One never knows when the TV would come down (ie. new tenants) and it's an eyesore. It might be a bit picky, but one does want to complete a corrected patch. Also, did you leave it to the homeowner to do the painting thereafter for the hole caused by the installer? Matching the paint is crucial as well. 8-)
Great lesson! (and b4 getting dismissed, your assistant seemed like she was waiting for a Tip.)
😮Get a longer drill bit would have been my first choice. Fire blocks are typically at 8 foot , I would've called it a lead in that the framers put in to straighten up the wall .
Good tip is to feed a long plastic tongue (Cable feeder) and you can zigzag or go back and forward feeding cables up and down without pulling the tongue out, it makes things super quick!
I have insulation in my interior walls as well for noise cancelling. Makes fishing coax, cat 6 and power more fun for sure
Wow I really should have watched your video back in December when I bought my TV, 😢.
But instead I left all the fancy mounting brackets in the box because it was too confusing 😂.
And went with the old articulating bracket and finished in 15 minutes lol.
Bravo! This video is badass. Finally a video that shows what could happen worst case scenario. (Fireblocking). And dude taking care of it. Thank you!
This was a very good video for us novice DIYer's. Thank you for sharing. I've saved this for use reference.
Been wanting to do structured wiring my whole home yes, I know that's gonna be costly but I still wanna do it.
Has this been an idea if yours? And who do you recommend to go with?
I'm wondering if the 1" wide connector would allow the wires to be removed and reinserted. If so, I would have removed the wide connector so I could drill smaller hole through the fire block to run wires through. I would have used a flex bit to drill through the block.
Nice vid. Dang those fire blocks.
Stand them make a hold in drywall you can use an flexible drill bit using this is so easy, thank to share your knowledge man
Great vid - Can't do stuff like this in houses here in the UK unfortunately in most cases, our walls are brick.
Nice job, glad you showed how to get thru the fire stop too!
If you didn't realize whether or not you had a fireblock (horizontal stud between 2 vertical studs for support), perhaps you could have a "magnetic detector" to search for sheetrock nails which would indicate a stud is going sideways and therefore, would have chosen a spot to the right or left of that 16" vertical stud cavity. Right? 8-)
awesome video. I want to wall mount tv to an exterior wall that does not have 3.5 inches of clearance behind it for the powerbridge. Any advice?
Much appreciated
What’s the best way to hook up your tv to watch movies/shows? We use our XBox (Prime and Netflix) sitting on a console table underneath the new to us 56” or so 11 y/o plasma tv. Wires are very unsightly.
Also my two ways of patching a hole larger than a quarter is cut the hole into a square make a drywall patch the same size but originally twice as large with the facing paper still attached with the little square on the other side. The other way is the mesh patches they sell at lowes /Home Depot. I
Thank you so much for your time! This has to be one of the best “How to” videos I’ve seen yet. You were amazing!!!!
With a wet sponge you can make texture when the second or third coat of mud to mimmick texture.
Can I plug a power bridge to a surge protector strip instead of a wall outlet?
Drywall repair on projects like this is why i like having flat paint in the living room. Way easier when you don't have to repaint the whole wall.
I Love This B!!!! Even Though I Have More Like Concrete or Cement Walls, How Would Hide Speaker Wires ( I Don't Know if U Work With Home Theater Stuff or So, But If U Have Anything That Is Remotely, The Same As The Other Set U Just Showed For HDMI Cables, I Would Love For U To Make a Video about ( Hiding Speaker Wires 🔊) It , Peace ✌
When u prep for a job u do a costing then add additional funds based on unforeseen contingencies... this would allow for saving time in completing the job, and ease in completing a job... u put ur markings on the drywall, u cut the entire piece out then replace it... that easier and less time
Why not use a blank switch plate for the drywall hole, as you may need to use it again?
It's an art to creating a great instructional video. This one definitely 👌 is well done. Thanks.
Hey B - I have a question about placement for an Atmos Soundbar (LG or Sonos Arc) - I'm thinking using an attached bracket to the mount (so directly beneath with a snug fit) or spaced 6" from the tv below and mounted to the wall or rested on the media console below. in each case of the mounts, I know the sound bar needs to extend a bit to clear the TV. Is there any advice or thoughts on the different options - what do you find to be the best look ? thanks
Man second video I’ve seen on this guy and wow this guys awesome.
Thanks for the vids I'm probably doing this soon. Just a thought but you could use the stud finder to find the firebreak before you break drywall.
Some romex from the existing receptacle knockouts could be run from there over and up to an upper "remodel" duplex box that have the exact same wings on them. No lower box needed but would be best to put one there to make fishing the romex easier plus an extra receptacle could be put there vs. a blank plate. The only difference would be that this set up has a recessed plug space if it is needed vs. flush like any other home receptacle. Must less cost too likely. Most homes will have those fire blocks so plan on them at that height.
Thank you for the video explanation, I just want to add if either lg or Sony don’t release a consumer grade micro/crystal led tv, with vrr, allm, and 4K 120hz, next year. I may just skip out buying a tv, fir a while assuming my old Samsung ks still works, since I don’t want to waste money on something that will not be a great tv, I also can’t trust oled, so I will probably never buy an oled, as long as burn in is still a slight concern. I just wanted to add after watching CES 2022 I will consider a 4K Sony X95k, this year, or even the Z9k, depending on the price, VRR support for Xbox, and how well the backlight master drive works….
What I did was move the entire electrical box up behind the tv and plugged it right into there. It avoids having those cables down below that you'll end up wanting to cover up.