Honestly thats stupid, adding anything between the gpu die and the heatsink WILL ALWAYS reduce your thermal conduction, the reason you are seeing an improvement is because that puts more mounting pressure due to the extra copper in between, my recommendation is to just add plastick washers on the back of the heatsink to increase the mounting pressure and remove that copper thingy between the heatsink and the gpu die, this should yield better results.
Thank you for this video. I have my own theory on this if you or someone else is interested. 1. You are increasing the contact surface with a GPU due by using this copper shim so in theory it should help with cooling further parts of a die. (Sometimes copper heat pipes in cooler don't cover it fully and only cover most of the centre. 2. Another thing is that you've done a fresh repaste of this card so it might've helped with a few degrees as well. It looked like previous owner pasted it with what seems like cryonaut as well? Just judging by the colour I might be wrong with previous paste brand / type. 3. And lastly (my own theory time). Coolers are designed with certain cooling power in mind and it's almost never an overkill but some adequate cooling solution. You've increased the thermal pad size also potentially introducing tiny air pockets because you've just added pads on top of it instead of replacing them completely. Not a big deal honestly and you've explained why. So to the point. You reduced heat transfering ability of those thicker pads by a little but freed up some of total cooling ceiling and now core can use that extra "freed" cooling capacity that was reserved by thinner pads before. Well I hope my mumbling makes any sense. Thank you for this experiment and your great job at explaining the negatives as well. Very informative. Looking forward to move awesome videos like these.
This sort of content deserves so many more views! Keep it up man! Love the in depth explanations and analysis you give here. Truly something I miss in a lot of the bigger channels.
That a was a really high quality video with some nice elements of humor and overall very good editing. All while you provide actual information about the whole thing you are discussing. You deserve the same amount of views and overall attention you got on your previous videos. Seeing this video's numbers physically hurts me :P
My man made thr best videos of cooper modding and just dipped hope life is going better or has gotten better for you to start uploading videos again doesn't have to be about cooper modding it can be anything tech related or something your passion about
More material change-less efficient thermal transfer. This test could’ve benefitted from a comparison with just a repaste using the same paste for a more apples to apples reference point(this is more like apples vs apple turnover). With this setup, you’re using the shim mostly as thermal mass, and it’s more likely allowing it to leverage a design inefficiency in the contact plate to die contact. If the manufacturer made the plate out of copper, you wouldn’t have seen any benefit with a shim shy of adding more thermal mass(offset by transfer coefficient losses due to heat transfer from materials).
yo, why you stopped making videos? the quality raised very fast with new equipment you gathered, like ifixit and the 99%iso. would love to see more, also its very entertaining. :)
Use nail varnish to protect all components, its cheap as chips and 100% safe, Gamers Nexus uses it, then use Liquid metal on GPU core, temps would be better and way much cheaper than this solution, your not getting price to performance at all. Actually prove me wrong, be interesting to see. Yup Im calling you out. But "don't" use Liquid metal if the cold plate is Aluminium as Liquid metal contains Gallium that eats Aluminium for breakfast and a cuppa tea, But copper is fine.
What about using copper sheets instead of shims? You can buy pure copper sheets as thin as 0.1mm, 0.2mm etc. These sheets are available as soft copper as well, which means they are slightly compressible. 1 benefit is that you can fill the exact size of the gap without increasing the height for the memory chips. The best way to measure the required thickness would be to stick some putty on the die, tighten the heat sink, then take it off and check the thickness of the squashed putty. Once you've got the exact thickness you got a piece of copper sheet with that exact thickness or a 0.1/0.2mm thicker copper sheet and stick in on the die with very little thermal paste. This should give you a perfect fit. Another option you could do is to tape of the area around the die and extend the copper shim/sheet, increasing the surface area of the copper sheet/shim that is in contact with the die, allowing for greater thermal distribution directly in the horizontal plane.
IMO best way to lower temps is to undervolt the GPU. These 3000 series GPU's tin to run hot due to their small die size so every small increase of voltage results in higher temps dramatically. I saw 10c difference in undervolting my RTX 3060 Ti on the core and on the hotspot!
I can say one thing I thought of, if ur gonna copper mod with shims, u might as well do your memory modules along with the core, the combined effort of both mods will definitely drop your temps
Putting a copper pad on the die is pointless and creates more of a inefficient blanketing effect then cooling. You are better off using L.M or direct die cooling, with thermal grizzly pads. The most outrageous mod/technique was thermal paste directly on the memory chips then thermal pads. Used it on a shunt modded 1080 the mem temps were extremely low.
Here's something I did that worked remarkably well that I think you should try while I was waiting for my copper memory plate from CoolMyGPU to come in for my 3080 TI after the common thermal pad didn't meet the expectation that I was hoping (from 102°f to 93°f under load) so I added thermal paste on top of the high quality thermal pads just because I didn't want to burn my memory out while I was waiting for my copper plate.. Step 1: order a large uncut aftermarket thermal pad that fit your boards requirement to cover the memory. Use the stock thermal pads as a template for what is needed to be cut out. (My founders edition 3080 TI required 1.5 mm pads) Step 2: apply thermal paste* to the memory and the contact surface for the heat sink (spread thin but evenly) Step 3: apply the thermal pads on top of the paste that is already covering the memory dies. Step 4: reassemble the heat sink back onto the card, apply remaining thermal pads to the back side of the card so it touches the back plate from the PCB (no thermal paste since it would make an unnecessary mess.) Reassemble the rest of the card. My guess is that the added performance was gained by the thermal paste increasing the surface area contact between the thermal pads and the memory and IHS. But I saw a reduction from 93°f to 72°f under load. I was stunned by the results of my little experiment and think it might be worthwhile for you to give it a shot as a cost-effective and readily available alternative to adding copper plates for those who are nervous.
And admittedly I didn't try the thermal paste method with the stock pads because for me they weren't really coming off without falling apart. It might be possible though.
Copper shims are effective but do it right. There are a lot of instructional videos on how to copper mod GPUs. I did mine for 3080ti though a hybrid of 0.5mm thermal pads and 1.2mm copper shim, the pad sitting in between the vrams and shims. Hot spot temps for GPU/MEM max out at 70C/68C during gaming. GPU Core temp remains steady at 64C. Be mindful of the thickness dimensions, this alone could make your modding a successful one or a complete disaster.
Never on GPU chip but on the memory modules. GPU can throttle down VRAM fries if are too hot. Copper is dilating you have to take that in consideration when choosing thickness of the shim.
Mining Gpus are actually pretty good, considering they were probably undervolted and kept at a reasonable temperature. The only issue is fan life, but that’s an easy fix
When I read the title of the video, for some reason I thought that you would apply copper to the crystal using chemical deposition. If you think about it, then by applying copper in this way, you can then polish it to a mirror, thus leveling the crystal. But direct-pipe cooling...I've always been skeptical about that.
What' the point in putting the shim on the actual Die? Copper does not have great X axis transfer like graphene, that is why copper can have heat spots. You essentially did what Intel was called out for, in putting thermal paste inside IHS, which will decrease performance over having the naked die. This is why we Delided the older intel CPU IHS, and repasted it with Liquid Metal, before Intel decided to solder them again on the newer gen. Laptop processors also do not have an IHS, as the IHS / Shim will take away thermal performance from having bare die contact heatsink, and having tiny heatsinks is important in laptops. I understand putting the shim over the memory, as your getting rid of the thermal pads which have a higher resistance then the copper. But you putting the shim over the GPU die is pointless, unless you had fitment issues of the heatsink not having complete contact. But again you stated by putting the shim it required you to use thicker thermal pads, which again, will decrease performance as the pads are now thicker. You were better off leaving the GPU DIE naked, and putting a proper copper shim on the memory and try to get rid of the pad as that is the most inefficient element Also instead of double stacking thermal pads, you should of copper shim'd the bottom contact layer with ram, and then used a thinner thermal pad to fill in the gap. This again would of reduced the limiting element (thermal pads) from thermal transfer to the heatsink. You should of went like you did in the other video, as that would of netted you the best performance on the core and memory temps. Stick with copper shims on the Ram, ditch as much of the thermal pads as possible, and try to get as much direct contact with the heatsink as possible without shorting anything out.
You could make this copper-shim bigger on XY scale and cut it thru till reach GPU making mini radiators for heat removal too. There was space, why not to use it !? :D
Wouldn't it be better to have done a run first with removing the thermal paste, re-applying new paste and then attached the cooler and did a test. The numbers you're seeing could have been due to the re-seat of the cooler and the new paste.
3 degrees is underwhelming, and probably not worth worrying about for the average gamer. Probably the heat pipes are helping out alot in the stock cooler, as well. Heat pipes can carry away significant amounts of heat due to phase change of the liquid inside.
all's well and good untill you tighten the bolts to the previous maximum depth and you end up cracking your cpu die do to the diffrence the shims make in height
Just found this guy's channel, watched two of his videos, decided to subscribe only to then figure out next that he has 6 videos and hasn't uploaded in over a year :/
I'm considering Repasting and copper modding my 3090FE as I'm starting to see issues in Destiny 2 particularly Hunter cloaks testing up lol. I'll check that site you used on other vid as they didn't have any FE kits available.
could you do some safe mods with liquid metal on gpus , i have seen some examples , but diferently from the cpus its harder to use liquid metal on gpus because you can easly damage it , if you would have the possibility to elaborate some experiments would be amazing , nice videos , best regards
mining gpu's are in better condition than gaming ones...its less stressfull for the card by miles and when undervolting is done correctly, they last forever.
I have my 3060 OC and running three monitors, still not as hot as your temps. How ever I did replace two fans. Same speeds but, slightly more open then MSI. Also replaced the thermal paste. I was hoping that with three fans it would cool better but, the way the card is setup doesn't have the best airflow to cool the heat-sink.. For the amount we spent on this card MSI should have gave us a block instead of heat pipes... Your right about that, I might try looking for a copper or aluminum plate. Or just pony up the cash and buy a water-block. Can't believe they want 200-300 for a block.. lol. Thoughts on just water-cooling the gpu and just adding heat-sink fins to ram_??? You did say the ram doesn't get very hot ?
I wonder with an aluminum heat sink like that if there would be better temps with a larger area copper shim? Pretty much to maximize the heat dissipation area to the aluminum? Pretty much the same way the high end card has a larger copper block.
No because copper does not have that great of a X-Axis heat transfer to spread the heat out. Copper under a heat source, will have heat spots, which is why you want the most cooling directly on those heat spots. What your hoping for is what Graphene was supposed to introduce, which had incredible X + Y axis heat transfer.
Hey Bro buen video. TENGO UNA DUDA. El cobre tiene una conductividad térmica de 385W/K, La plata tiene 400W/K pero... la pasta térmica tiene 30W/K. poner de menor conductividad que el cobre arriba y abajo ¿Esto no estaría limitando la capacidad de conductividad del cobre?, Una especie de cuello de botella? ¿No podrías probar con pads de cobre más gruesos sin usar pasta térmica? Para ver si estoy en lo correcto.
actaully the design of this heatsink and the fact that their using 2mm pads for the GDDR6 means a Copper od for the Memory would be much much more easy and effective . and a actaul liquid metal mode for the core more effective !!!!
This is a noob-trap topic. More copper doesn’t equal more cooling. Thermal paste isn’t as good at conducting heat as, well, any metal really. Adding a copper shim means you have to paste _both_ sides, and I can promise you anything you’d gain from the copper, you’ll lose more going through two layers of paste. You can’t get around it with liquid metal either, you can’t put that on the die, so you’re going to have a layer of paste no matter what. Why even put liquid metal on something _after_ the paste? It’s a waste of heat conductivity. If you really want a core copper mod, you’ll have to get the fin assembly custom built out of copper. I’m sure there’s performance to be had there - assuming your GPU brand isn’t a cheapskate and actually provided copper heat sinks. Not even joking, this is something I’d love to do if it wasn’t so prohibitably expensive.
There will also be a slight decrease in how quickly the VRAM is able to transfer it's heat to the cooler. This in turn opens up more cooling capacity for the core. This can likely work well for GDDR6 cards, but with GDDR6X there would likely be noticeable increase in the VRAM temps, and decrease in mining performance.
I would like some more in depth analysis. Your videos are really good. I recently upgrades the thermal pads on 8 RTX 3080 TIs. 4 turned out much better than the manufacture's pads, 3 the same as the manufacture's pads when new, and one that that I am now unable to lock the core clock on and so mining is seriously hampered (43.3 MH/s for eth). You were talking about removing residual stuff from other parts of the PCB - Read Panda say ' don't get thermal paste on any part of the card or you will have 'all sorts of problems'. What is this all about? Why do you spend so much time and effort getting every little bit of old thermal paste from ever nook and cranny of the GPU? Do you KNOW why you are being so meticulous, or are you just doing it because you've been told to before? I think there is a significant potential viewership for quality, in depth analysis and teardowns of GPUs. I mean, how do these things really work at the hardware level? Most videos just give you a whole load of stats concerning cuda cores etc, or overclocking procedures, very few try to strip cards down and show people what's really going on with them.
Hey there. A while back I'd asked you about water-cooling and copper modding my 3080ti fe. I'm happy to report that the copper mod worked great and memory temps are also great. I wonder though if you might have some advice for another problem I'm having now though. While my GPU temp is typically around 70-80C (it's a lot of GPU in a SFF case on a 280mm loop with a 5800x), but the hot spot temp shoots up to 104.9 almost immediately when I start up and game and throttles constantly and occasionally just shuts off video outputs. I know it's not a problem of the loop not having enough radiator volume but since it doesn't tell me where on the card the hot spot actually is, I don't know what to do and I haven't seen or heard of anyone else having hot spot temps 30-40C over their GPU temps so any advice would be appreciated
Hey man. hot spot is meassured only on cpu die. u have bubles in the thermal paste, so the die is not cooled correctly. check that.(or dry thermal paste)
Just got an ASUS TUF GeForce RTX 3090 OC and I am really confused with the memory temperature. They're at 92 C. Am I missing something? The GPU itself is at around 65c to 71c when playing games but the memory temperature is 92C and is staying there. The card was sealed so I'm the first user. What is wrong with it? Do you think I can RMA it because it really heats up my room very fast. Coming from a ASUS TUF 1080 TI I never had these high temperatures. They always were at 65C at full load. Do you think the memory pads need these coppers or replacing the pads Asus put on with something better might change temperature? My question is this card was not cheap at all and I got it exactly the same like the 1080 ti with 3 fans. I thought it would stay cool like the 1080 ti. Any advice?
Dude, can you make videos for rx 6600 power colour temp. Issue, the temperature junction it's always until 100°C, can you make solution to drop the temperature?
And how is your gpu? i had 3070ti ventus x3 undervolted with stock mhz at 900 mv +1000 mhz on memomy. GPU max 70 degree, memory 78 and hotspot 93 at 1600 rpm fan speed... how can i improve my hotspot temp? it was 108 degree before undervolt
Honestly thats stupid, adding anything between the gpu die and the heatsink WILL ALWAYS reduce your thermal conduction, the reason you are seeing an improvement is because that puts more mounting pressure due to the extra copper in between, my recommendation is to just add plastick washers on the back of the heatsink to increase the mounting pressure and remove that copper thingy between the heatsink and the gpu die, this should yield better results.
thats maybe a content for a new video 😉
Thank you for this video.
I have my own theory on this if you or someone else is interested.
1. You are increasing the contact surface with a GPU due by using this copper shim so in theory it should help with cooling further parts of a die. (Sometimes copper heat pipes in cooler don't cover it fully and only cover most of the centre.
2. Another thing is that you've done a fresh repaste of this card so it might've helped with a few degrees as well. It looked like previous owner pasted it with what seems like cryonaut as well? Just judging by the colour I might be wrong with previous paste brand / type.
3. And lastly (my own theory time). Coolers are designed with certain cooling power in mind and it's almost never an overkill but some adequate cooling solution. You've increased the thermal pad size also potentially introducing tiny air pockets because you've just added pads on top of it instead of replacing them completely. Not a big deal honestly and you've explained why. So to the point. You reduced heat transfering ability of those thicker pads by a little but freed up some of total cooling ceiling and now core can use that extra "freed" cooling capacity that was reserved by thinner pads before. Well I hope my mumbling makes any sense.
Thank you for this experiment and your great job at explaining the negatives as well. Very informative. Looking forward to move awesome videos like these.
This sort of content deserves so many more views! Keep it up man! Love the in depth explanations and analysis you give here. Truly something I miss in a lot of the bigger channels.
My dude. I just found your channel and your videos are amazing. Where'd you go? Hope all is well!
That a was a really high quality video with some nice elements of humor and overall very good editing. All while you provide actual information about the whole thing you are discussing. You deserve the same amount of views and overall attention you got on your previous videos. Seeing this video's numbers physically hurts me :P
All a part of the process. Glad you enjoyed the video and I greatly appreciate the feedback, I hope I can keep improving my content!
My man made thr best videos of cooper modding and just dipped hope life is going better or has gotten better for you to start uploading videos again doesn't have to be about cooper modding it can be anything tech related or something your passion about
You have really got talent, please keep doing this.
More material change-less efficient thermal transfer. This test could’ve benefitted from a comparison with just a repaste using the same paste for a more apples to apples reference point(this is more like apples vs apple turnover). With this setup, you’re using the shim mostly as thermal mass, and it’s more likely allowing it to leverage a design inefficiency in the contact plate to die contact. If the manufacturer made the plate out of copper, you wouldn’t have seen any benefit with a shim shy of adding more thermal mass(offset by transfer coefficient losses due to heat transfer from materials).
Bro you did a great job. Awesome effects and fun moments make it much pleasant to watch. Keep it up. We love you❤️
were you a delivery driver at some point...cos you nailed it😂😂😂
thoroughly enjoyed, very fun editing, commentary and pace =)
Can I ask why you stopped making videos?
Great info and a fun presentation. Keep it coming ! 👍
Just discovered this channel, unfortunately I have no more videos left to watch. Praying for more content from the GOAT himself.
im proud of you man. this was incredible work. ill be sure to check out your channel. well done!
this guy needs more subs.. also I cannot believe this actually worked.
yo, why you stopped making videos? the quality raised very fast with new equipment you gathered, like ifixit and the 99%iso. would love to see more, also its very entertaining. :)
Use nail varnish to protect all components, its cheap as chips and 100% safe, Gamers Nexus uses it, then use Liquid metal on GPU core, temps would be better and way much cheaper than this solution, your not getting price to performance at all. Actually prove me wrong, be interesting to see. Yup Im calling you out. But "don't" use Liquid metal if the cold plate is Aluminium as Liquid metal contains Gallium that eats Aluminium for breakfast and a cuppa tea, But copper is fine.
What about using copper sheets instead of shims? You can buy pure copper sheets as thin as 0.1mm, 0.2mm etc. These sheets are available as soft copper as well, which means they are slightly compressible. 1 benefit is that you can fill the exact size of the gap without increasing the height for the memory chips. The best way to measure the required thickness would be to stick some putty on the die, tighten the heat sink, then take it off and check the thickness of the squashed putty. Once you've got the exact thickness you got a piece of copper sheet with that exact thickness or a 0.1/0.2mm thicker copper sheet and stick in on the die with very little thermal paste. This should give you a perfect fit.
Another option you could do is to tape of the area around the die and extend the copper shim/sheet, increasing the surface area of the copper sheet/shim that is in contact with the die, allowing for greater thermal distribution directly in the horizontal plane.
I bet just the thermal grizzly compound alone made the improvement along with the Gelid pads.
IMO best way to lower temps is to undervolt the GPU. These 3000 series GPU's tin to run hot due to their small die size so every small increase of voltage results in higher temps dramatically. I saw 10c difference in undervolting my RTX 3060 Ti on the core and on the hotspot!
I dig the content, dude! Fun mods with good delivery and some humor mixed in.
fWhere did this kid go. I just found his videos and he is actually good at this with very little experience based just on this YT channel.
where have you gone ... you made some great videos
Soon… stay tuned :)
I can say one thing I thought of, if ur gonna copper mod with shims, u might as well do your memory modules along with the core, the combined effort of both mods will definitely drop your temps
Try using Eucalyptus oil on a cue tip to remove the gunk then clean that off with alcohol. It works great and is cheap
Thank you For the great content
Thank you so much for watching my videos!! I am glad you enjoy them. It means incredibly much to me ❤️😃
Never stop posting you produce great content 👌
That fed ex bit was awesome
New sub. Glad to see someone doing this sort of work!
Putting a copper pad on the die is pointless and creates more of a inefficient blanketing effect then cooling. You are better off using L.M or direct die cooling, with thermal grizzly pads. The most outrageous mod/technique was thermal paste directly on the memory chips then thermal pads. Used it on a shunt modded 1080 the mem temps were extremely low.
Gpu’s are already direct die. That silver part is the die, they have no heat spreaders. If this helps temps then it’s better than the original.
Here's something I did that worked remarkably well that I think you should try while I was waiting for my copper memory plate from CoolMyGPU to come in for my 3080 TI after the common thermal pad didn't meet the expectation that I was hoping (from 102°f to 93°f under load) so I added thermal paste on top of the high quality thermal pads just because I didn't want to burn my memory out while I was waiting for my copper plate..
Step 1: order a large uncut aftermarket thermal pad that fit your boards requirement to cover the memory. Use the stock thermal pads as a template for what is needed to be cut out. (My founders edition 3080 TI required 1.5 mm pads)
Step 2: apply thermal paste* to the memory and the contact surface for the heat sink (spread thin but evenly)
Step 3: apply the thermal pads on top of the paste that is already covering the memory dies.
Step 4: reassemble the heat sink back onto the card, apply remaining thermal pads to the back side of the card so it touches the back plate from the PCB (no thermal paste since it would make an unnecessary mess.) Reassemble the rest of the card.
My guess is that the added performance was gained by the thermal paste increasing the surface area contact between the thermal pads and the memory and IHS. But I saw a reduction from 93°f to 72°f under load. I was stunned by the results of my little experiment and think it might be worthwhile for you to give it a shot as a cost-effective and readily available alternative to adding copper plates for those who are nervous.
And admittedly I didn't try the thermal paste method with the stock pads because for me they weren't really coming off without falling apart. It might be possible though.
That would be nice to test and include the VRM!
Keep pushing, your channel will eventually explode.
Copper shims are effective but do it right. There are a lot of instructional videos on how to copper mod GPUs. I did mine for 3080ti though a hybrid of 0.5mm thermal pads and 1.2mm copper shim, the pad sitting in between the vrams and shims. Hot spot temps for GPU/MEM max out at 70C/68C during gaming. GPU Core temp remains steady at 64C. Be mindful of the thickness dimensions, this alone could make your modding a successful one or a complete disaster.
Never on GPU chip but on the memory modules. GPU can throttle down VRAM fries if are too hot. Copper is dilating you have to take that in consideration when choosing thickness of the shim.
I just saw your videos. Wow 2 years ago ?
Are you still alive man?
Hope you upload more videos about gpu mods, appreciate if you try laptop gpu mods
where in tf is this guy
bro your content is awesome
I got one for you, instead using copper shims, try using vapor chambers on the vram, huge increase in thermal conductivity.
Mining Gpus are actually pretty good, considering they were probably undervolted and kept at a reasonable temperature. The only issue is fan life, but that’s an easy fix
Thank you for doing this experiment
When I read the title of the video, for some reason I thought that you would apply copper to the crystal using chemical deposition.
If you think about it, then by applying copper in this way, you can then polish it to a mirror, thus leveling the crystal.
But direct-pipe cooling...I've always been skeptical about that.
What' the point in putting the shim on the actual Die? Copper does not have great X axis transfer like graphene, that is why copper can have heat spots.
You essentially did what Intel was called out for, in putting thermal paste inside IHS, which will decrease performance over having the naked die.
This is why we Delided the older intel CPU IHS, and repasted it with Liquid Metal, before Intel decided to solder them again on the newer gen.
Laptop processors also do not have an IHS, as the IHS / Shim will take away thermal performance from having bare die contact heatsink, and having tiny heatsinks is important in laptops.
I understand putting the shim over the memory, as your getting rid of the thermal pads which have a higher resistance then the copper.
But you putting the shim over the GPU die is pointless, unless you had fitment issues of the heatsink not having complete contact.
But again you stated by putting the shim it required you to use thicker thermal pads, which again, will decrease performance as the pads are now thicker.
You were better off leaving the GPU DIE naked, and putting a proper copper shim on the memory and try to get rid of the pad as that is the most inefficient element
Also instead of double stacking thermal pads, you should of copper shim'd the bottom contact layer with ram, and then used a thinner thermal pad to fill in the gap.
This again would of reduced the limiting element (thermal pads) from thermal transfer to the heatsink.
You should of went like you did in the other video, as that would of netted you the best performance on the core and memory temps.
Stick with copper shims on the Ram, ditch as much of the thermal pads as possible, and try to get as much direct contact with the heatsink as possible without shorting anything out.
Bro was providing good content, and growing wonder what made him quit.
You haven't uploaded for a while hopefully you're OK and hopefully you'll upload something soon
Please make a video on RX6700XT xfx swft 309
You could make this copper-shim bigger on XY scale and cut it thru till reach GPU making mini radiators for heat removal too. There was space, why not to use it !? :D
Wouldn't it be better to have done a run first with removing the thermal paste, re-applying new paste and then attached the cooler and did a test. The numbers you're seeing could have been due to the re-seat of the cooler and the new paste.
3 degrees is underwhelming, and probably not worth worrying about for the average gamer. Probably the heat pipes are helping out alot in the stock cooler, as well. Heat pipes can carry away significant amounts of heat due to phase change of the liquid inside.
all's well and good untill you tighten the bolts to the previous maximum depth and you end up cracking your cpu die do to the diffrence the shims make in height
you should totally test liquid metal vs copper shims
Adding a vapor chamber would maybe work better to spread the heat ?
Hope you are well
I feel like you could have copper modded the memory as well to deal with the added gap.
Love your videos men!!!
Interesting experience, thanks Dandy!)
Dandyworks? More like copperworks
Love your style
Why’d you stop making vids dawg?
Just found this guy's channel, watched two of his videos, decided to subscribe only to then figure out next that he has 6 videos and hasn't uploaded in over a year :/
I'm considering Repasting and copper modding my 3090FE as I'm starting to see issues in Destiny 2 particularly Hunter cloaks testing up lol. I'll check that site you used on other vid as they didn't have any FE kits available.
You are a great comedian, bro. 😁
So in theory, adding a much wider copper shim would effectively be much greater in transfer than a smaller 20mm/20mm shim.
No. This guy is full of crap.
good video
excellent editing
could you do some safe mods with liquid metal on gpus , i have seen some examples , but diferently from the cpus its harder to use liquid metal on gpus because you can easly damage it , if you would have the possibility to elaborate some experiments would be amazing , nice videos , best regards
mining gpu's are in better condition than gaming ones...its less stressfull for the card by miles and when undervolting is done correctly, they last forever.
I have my 3060 OC and running three monitors, still not as hot as your temps. How ever I did replace two fans. Same speeds but, slightly more open then MSI. Also replaced the thermal paste. I was hoping that with three fans it would cool better but, the way the card is setup doesn't have the best airflow to cool the heat-sink.. For the amount we spent on this card MSI should have gave us a block instead of heat pipes... Your right about that, I might try looking for a copper or aluminum plate. Or just pony up the cash and buy a water-block. Can't believe they want 200-300 for a block.. lol. Thoughts on just water-cooling the gpu and just adding heat-sink fins to ram_??? You did say the ram doesn't get very hot ?
Hi buddy. Great video. Recomended thickness for a laptop cpu and gpu? In mm (milimeters please) Thank you very much. Greetings from Colombia
Whats up man? When u drop the next vid?
I wonder with an aluminum heat sink like that if there would be better temps with a larger area copper shim? Pretty much to maximize the heat dissipation area to the aluminum? Pretty much the same way the high end card has a larger copper block.
No because copper does not have that great of a X-Axis heat transfer to spread the heat out.
Copper under a heat source, will have heat spots, which is why you want the most cooling directly on those heat spots.
What your hoping for is what Graphene was supposed to introduce, which had incredible X + Y axis heat transfer.
surprised you didnt decide to use kapton tape over on the core capacitors.
stop making such fire content bro we don't deserve this
Hey Bro buen video.
TENGO UNA DUDA.
El cobre tiene una conductividad térmica de 385W/K, La plata tiene 400W/K
pero... la pasta térmica tiene 30W/K.
poner de menor conductividad que el cobre arriba y abajo ¿Esto no estaría limitando la capacidad de conductividad del cobre?, Una especie de cuello de botella? ¿No podrías probar con pads de cobre más gruesos sin usar pasta térmica? Para ver si estoy en lo correcto.
that teddy bear for the shims swap ..lolololololololol
This is so risky to do and has so few warnings about die, chips, circuits and electricity conductivity.
Bro you are so cool love the channel
You could have used 5mm thick copper shims instead of the thermal pad sandwich!
Why not lapping the cooper? This cooper squares comes with a lot of scratches and affect the surface contact.
That is why he uses... thermal compound?
actaully the design of this heatsink and the fact that their using 2mm pads for the GDDR6 means a Copper od for the Memory would be much much more easy and effective . and a actaul liquid metal mode for the core more effective !!!!
Can you do an update vid on all your copper mods? Everything still performing the same?
Where are you now? 5 months is too long.
This is a noob-trap topic. More copper doesn’t equal more cooling. Thermal paste isn’t as good at conducting heat as, well, any metal really. Adding a copper shim means you have to paste _both_ sides, and I can promise you anything you’d gain from the copper, you’ll lose more going through two layers of paste.
You can’t get around it with liquid metal either, you can’t put that on the die, so you’re going to have a layer of paste no matter what. Why even put liquid metal on something _after_ the paste? It’s a waste of heat conductivity.
If you really want a core copper mod, you’ll have to get the fin assembly custom built out of copper. I’m sure there’s performance to be had there - assuming your GPU brand isn’t a cheapskate and actually provided copper heat sinks. Not even joking, this is something I’d love to do if it wasn’t so prohibitably expensive.
What an intro bro
Dandy, what size, milimeters mm, should I purchase the copper to put in the thermal pad place? i guess the original thermal pad is 1.5mm.
Yoo i just discovered you today, where you go bro??
There will also be a slight decrease in how quickly the VRAM is able to transfer it's heat to the cooler. This in turn opens up more cooling capacity for the core.
This can likely work well for GDDR6 cards, but with GDDR6X there would likely be noticeable increase in the VRAM temps, and decrease in mining performance.
Did you upgrade to a 4090?
Can you make a video if the copper shims mod works
I would like some more in depth analysis. Your videos are really good. I recently upgrades the thermal pads on 8 RTX 3080 TIs. 4 turned out much better than the manufacture's pads, 3 the same as the manufacture's pads when new, and one that that I am now unable to lock the core clock on and so mining is seriously hampered (43.3 MH/s for eth). You were talking about removing residual stuff from other parts of the PCB - Read Panda say ' don't get thermal paste on any part of the card or you will have 'all sorts of problems'. What is this all about? Why do you spend so much time and effort getting every little bit of old thermal paste from ever nook and cranny of the GPU? Do you KNOW why you are being so meticulous, or are you just doing it because you've been told to before? I think there is a significant potential viewership for quality, in depth analysis and teardowns of GPUs. I mean, how do these things really work at the hardware level? Most videos just give you a whole load of stats concerning cuda cores etc, or overclocking procedures, very few try to strip cards down and show people what's really going on with them.
broo youre fireee need more subs! :D
did this man disappear, these videos were pretty good
crypto mining died so did his channel
Hey ! @DandyWorks Are you still alive ?
Hey there. A while back I'd asked you about water-cooling and copper modding my 3080ti fe. I'm happy to report that the copper mod worked great and memory temps are also great.
I wonder though if you might have some advice for another problem I'm having now though. While my GPU temp is typically around 70-80C (it's a lot of GPU in a SFF case on a 280mm loop with a 5800x), but the hot spot temp shoots up to 104.9 almost immediately when I start up and game and throttles constantly and occasionally just shuts off video outputs. I know it's not a problem of the loop not having enough radiator volume but since it doesn't tell me where on the card the hot spot actually is, I don't know what to do and I haven't seen or heard of anyone else having hot spot temps 30-40C over their GPU temps so any advice would be appreciated
Hey man. hot spot is meassured only on cpu die. u have bubles in the thermal paste, so the die is not cooled correctly. check that.(or dry thermal paste)
What is the best brand of 3070 ti that we don't need to change the me thermal pad.....
Just got an ASUS TUF GeForce RTX 3090 OC and I am really confused with the memory temperature. They're at 92 C. Am I missing something? The GPU itself is at around 65c to 71c when playing games but the memory temperature is 92C and is staying there. The card was sealed so I'm the first user. What is wrong with it? Do you think I can RMA it because it really heats up my room very fast. Coming from a ASUS TUF 1080 TI I never had these high temperatures. They always were at 65C at full load. Do you think the memory pads need these coppers or replacing the pads Asus put on with something better might change temperature? My question is this card was not cheap at all and I got it exactly the same like the 1080 ti with 3 fans. I thought it would stay cool like the 1080 ti. Any advice?
Dude, can you make videos for rx 6600 power colour temp. Issue, the temperature junction it's always until 100°C, can you make solution to drop the temperature?
Is the backplate plastic or metal on the MSI? Cheers.
The entire card’s frame is made from injection-molded plastic. 👍🏽
And how is your gpu? i had 3070ti ventus x3 undervolted with stock mhz at 900 mv +1000 mhz on memomy. GPU max 70 degree, memory 78 and hotspot 93 at 1600 rpm fan speed... how can i improve my hotspot temp? it was 108 degree before undervolt
Will you make the same video for an Asus TUF gaming 3060 12g 3x fans please? :) I wanna mod my gpu just like these video.
Dude can you make a copper shim video for rx 6000 series also?
Have to maintain vram copper mod like every 2 month cleaning or something?
May I ask how much to diagnose and fix my gtx 1080 ti