Government vehicles are deleted so so is mine!! They have better health care, retirement, time off!! So no you don't get to have a better running engine than me!!! 😤
Great video. I have 2016 Ram 3500 diesel longhorn from brand new. First five years I was using it on daily basis for on everage 250 miles per day pulling my construction trailer with different loads. Just reliable truck, always ready, never failed me. In 300000 miles now I changed the turbo actuator, banks air intake( the killer bolt was failing) and regular maintenance, truck runs still like new, really happy with this investment!
On my 2018 Ram 2500, I had to drive it once a week on the highway for about 20 miles to complete a regen on the DPF. Driving around town didn’t get it hot enough and was headed towards a huge bill for a new DPF. The temps in the DPF would easily go over 1000F in regen. Problem was solved with an “emissions surgery” and tuner. Great video!!
@@pr4lviper : Used the Edge CTS monitor to see the regen start. You can see the DPF temps rise rapidly during the regen. As far as when it needed a regen, I could see the process start a few times (with the EDGE CTS monitor) during the week and it would usually get interrupted if I needed to stop for whatever reason. The after treatment system would okay if you are driving on the highway most of the time, but that wasn't how I was using the truck.
Well anyone who got stuck buying a Ford, GM or Dodge truck time to go back to school this time to learn. Want a quality truck or car Toyota or Honda period. And if you got to much junk or stuff to haul, try hiring someone to do it or better yet get rid of it, and find another job. Because the rest of us on the road don't like or want to see you monster trucks boring down on the rest of us. Thanks hope this helps.
@@vietnamvet4533really? So you want me to pay someone to plow my properties and my clients, and to tow my boat and landscaping trailers around when I need them? How about mind your business and if you don't like being around big trucks on the road, then get off it.
@@PoliticallyIncorrectMechanic Well I am a numbers guy. You spend 83k on truck add in the interest in 6 years and that is 100k. Add in fuel and insurance at say 8K a year and the total is 148k. You can hire a ton of workers for that. And since you posted I guess it is now my business.
75% of the problems with new diesel engines regardless of the brand, regardless how hard you run them, is emission systems, might be the filter failure, might be the def sensors, mostly its the egr but its always something that has to do with the emission system, and the mpg's on all the different brands proves this 100%.
Weird how these engines not only become more reliable but also more fuel efficient without all the emission bs. Leave it to the idiots in gov to screw something up that didn’t need fixing.
@@pedrolabrada5591 no it runs richer and makes the engine less reliable. This channel's mechanic should learn what he is talking about before spewing garbage.
Heres a nugget for idling. When sitting in traffic or stopped for longer than a few minutes, turn the cruise control on and hit the minus bitton on the cruise control. Your RPM’s are increased to around 1400 to mitigate DPF problems and keep it cleaner.
I am a Ram technician. If I might offer a little insight your three common issues, and I will keep it to the 2019 and newer (it is a different engine and overall system). And please know that what I see is common to the Southeast region. #1- Aftertreatment failures are now usually due to the fuel filters not properly being maintained (10k-15K miles. Usually I recommend to my customers do them during their oil change), incorrect air filter installed (must be the type without the glue strips and no aftermarket like K&N), or the lack of EGR system maintenance. Also go to the dealer and make sure the most recent software has been flashed in the PCM (It will usually cost you about an hour). #2- If the EGR system is properly maintained at the proper intervals, you shouldn't have an issue. Many of my commercial clients have several hundred thousand miles on their trucks and are operating with much of the original equipment. There is a message that comes on in the dash "Perform Service" usually about 70k miles (67.5K miles on 2018 & prior) and requires that the EGR cooler & cross-over tube be soaked & cleaned, and the CCV filter be replaced. The EGR valve on 2018 and prior can be disassembled and the mechanics can be cleaned but unfortunately 2019 & newer cannot (at least I haven't found a way). The cleaner I really like is EGR Cleaner by Mopar. I use it full strength and let the parts soak overnight. To soak the cooler I made a blank that I seal with RTV at one end of the cooler then fill it up. ***If you have a lot of idle time, I recommend this service more frequently.*** #3- The turbo and actuator are terribly misunderstood (and mistreated). I will start with the turbo; AGAIN, IF YOU ARE PROPERLY MAINTAINING YOUR EGR SYSTEM, you shouldn't have any problems with the veins nor the impeller in your turbocharger. Now the actuator; usually when you have an issue with the actuator, there are generally a couple of codes. I don't remember them off hand but the most common will be a loss of communication, active or stored and usually a symptom of no power or intermittent loss of power (dangerous if you are pulling out into traffic). The other code is related to calibration (if I remember correctly). I find in most cases that people are driving the hell out of their trucks. Over speed limit, towing 15k-20k pounds, or more, down the road. Get to the destination and shut off the engine! What does hot coolant, sitting in a hot engine with no circulation, do...? It gets hotter. That hotter coolant is in the actuator (as well as, its attached to the hot turbo, which is attached to the hot exhaust manifold). Are you seeing the problem....? The circuit board in the actuator gets cold solder breaks from excessive heat to cold, repetitively. When you get to your destination, let your truck idle for 10 minutes. It really is that simple to extend the life of your actuator. Much of this can be extended to 2018 & prior. The real message here is maintain your truck. You spent $50k-$100k+ for your truck! Research it! That and find yourself a good Mopar tech that you can trust.
The dealer that performed the EGR cooler and EGR valve cleaning on my 2019 used a CCR product and an air compressor line. I asked if that was truly the manufacturer's recommended service method and they said it is an accepted method. The method you described is what I was expecting. The dealer in my area is huge. Also, I use Schaeffer's Carbon Treat on every fill up. I thought it would help with keeping my emissions cleaner. I am at 100K miles and the truck does a regen about every 150 miles. It is driving me crazy. I change the oil at 10K and the fuel filters at 15K, the CCV filter at 70, changing the trans fluid and filter every 30K now with synthetic, changed the differential lube with Schaeffer's, changed the transfer case fluid. I am trying my best to make this truck last and getting P-2459 codes occasionally.
I was about to pull the trigger on a Ram diesel. After watching your video, I realized I am one of those you described who doesn't drive very far. Even though I pull a moderate-sized fifth wheel, it is only half a dozen times a year. I'll be sticking with my 2018 35Heavy Dutyu 6.4. (yeah, it's got a Hemi!) Great video presence with great, honest info. Thanks!
Running with the exhaust brake on prolongs turbo life in my experience. Have had one '19 two '18's go north of 200,000 miles with factory turbo and actuator. Turn it on every time you get in the truck. (I have an '06 5.9 with over 500k but that's a totally different animal) current '21 HO only has 55k and so far, issue free
@@horsetrader1991 I would if I were you especially since you're not towing a trailer anymore. When the truck is under load, the vanes in the turbo work more often, they are less likely to stick or get "carboned up". Slow rolling around town will cause the vanes to become dirty and freeze up. Put the automatic exhaust brake on at least. I usually run full exhaust brake but it can be aggressive when empty. By running with the exhaust brake on I have not experienced any turbo or actuator issues in the several hundred thousand miles I have put on these trucks.
@@efraingarciaescalante2824 I have a '21 so not sure about '22 recalls. Browsing the web it appears some '22s are experiencing cam and lifter issues. Haven't seen anything about 21 having the same problem. There's other recalls for 21 for the tailgate and intake heater bolt/relay
I really appreciate this video. I love my 2013 6.7 Tradesman. I have cleaned, repaired, or replaced most every component of the emissions system and probably will be replacing some systems again. I run a lot fuel additives and just made a 1,000 mile trip from Georgia to Missouri over the weekend where it really performed. You are so right about short trips. Around the farm this thing makes lots of starts and stops and pulls hard when not at full temp. A brutal life Thanks again for your video
My wife's 2018 6.7L runs best with Hot Shots Secret EDT added to the fuel at every fill up. Last year, the P20EE code kept coming up every 3 weeks. 4 trips to the dealer that replaced the SCR, Nox sensor, DEF fluid replacement, and reflashed software. The last time the code showed up I noticed the battery was a little off. Went to Walmart for a new AGM battery. It has been 9 months since any issues. The engine runs smoother and with better fuel economy. I have been using Rotella T6 5w40 oil all year round since 700 miles. Also got a Bank's intake elbow to avoid the dreaded heater grid bolt issue.
Interesting, I'll have to see what that hot shots EDT is all about. but yes multiple trips to the dealer is not unheard of. sometimes these codes just keep coming back and its tough to get to the bottom of them. happy the trucks is running well now!
as a retired Mopar tech, heavy line/ transmissions. i worked on a lot of the Cummins engine. the biggest cause of any failure on these trucks, were caused by the owner. people bought a work truck they tried to use as a pleasure vehicle. seen alot of these vehicle 3/4 ton 4 x 4 drove by the wife because see wanted to be cool/hip, in the now. people that worked these vehicle had very little issues and usually high mileage when they did. i also seen head gasket failure on these engine, but where either high mileage or had aftermarket equipment boosting power, which would lift the head off the gasket and would eventually fail. the stock high mileage head gasket failure, would usually leak externally from parts of the gasket deteriorating, till leak occured.
I ordered a 2017 RAM 3500 Limited Mega cab SRW truck with the high output Cummins and Aisin transmission. I now have 208K miles with zero issues, other than heater failure. I'm in southern California so I rarely use the heater, but I need to get it checked out. I drive an average of 200 miles, mostly highway, every day I run it, about 4 days per week. I tow my 15K pound 5th wheel about 5 times per year. I religiously change oil & both fuel filters every 15K miles. I've changes the CCV filter one time at about 100K miles, so I need to do that again. I do sit idling for up to 15-20 minutes at times, but then drive it many miles again before shutting it down. I also let it idle for about 10-15 minutes after towing to let things cool down well. I need to take it in for the EPA recall this month. I've seen where nothing really changes other than the DEF gauge running toward empty faster. They say it doesn't use more DEF, the gauge just runs down faster. I hear that mileage and performance do not suffer at all. I use the freshest DEF I can find, and never let the DEF tank go below half full. This video scares the crap out of me, so I just take the best care of my truck, and maintain the fuel filters using only Mopar filters. . .
I really appreciate you posting this video going over these issues that most buyers (like me) have no idea of or at best a very remote idea as to what can happen with this motor which I was going to get in the new 2023 Rebel 2500 or 2024 Laramie, however after listening your explanation of the intricacies innate to this engine and likeliness of malfunctions that can happen with not fault at all of driver/owner I will go with the HEMI 6.4 gasoline, many thanks.
Good stuff bro, my 2021 motor went bad due to a plugged egr, like a chain reaction….all types of issues you just went over … so iffy about getting me a new truck with warranty however I think I learned a valuable lesson with my 6.7 HO …it lasted 200k miles however towing everyday……lol…
The third thing you can do to reduce soot is use a Quality fuel additive. One that increases cetane which makes the fuel burn easier and more efficiently.
i agree here, but I think the high end cummins recommended additives are actually improving fuel atomization. I notice longer regen intervals and better fuel economy.
I did a delete with a tune, and all my exhaust issues went away, also added a Fass oil water seperato system....got a good 11 year run. Now I'm dealing with ECM and ABS Module, on a 2013 Ram 2500 6.7
one thing that has helped me with the frequency regeneration was to add a cummins approved fuel additive. My only theory as to why it helps is that these additives probably improve fuel atomization at the injector as well as keeping the injectors clean.
I've found that fuel catalysts like Better Diesel which burn soot at a lower temperature slows how fast the DPF fills up and gets that passive regen going quicker.
@@kevinwhitton6595 That really doesn't matter. Typically, all fuel gets put in the same storage tank after transportation through the pipeline. The trucks that deliver the fuel to the stations all draw from that same tank. Focus on well maintained stations that move high volume.
Their is an holset actuator problem right now. The housing at the bottom is a little big. Also the real main problem with the 6.7 Cummins is the grid heater stud and nut rotting away and getting smashed into the top of a piston.
I personally run the automatic exhaust brake all the time to save my brakes. But I have heard mixed opinions about whether or not that is good for your turbo. My philosophy is moving parts that continuously move are less likely to seize. But I’d like to hear your opinion and other pros and cons
The cummins exhaust brake is the best on the market forsure. I mean constantly running it will put more back pressure on the turbo but in my opinion I don't like it will shorten the life of the turbo. Have it contently working it probably the better optikn
@@Cardiakk You are not taking into account my idle hours, and MAXED OUT towing daily. It all falls under business expenses, so nothing to save by not doing it.
To me the risk was not worth the reward. I went with the 6.4L. I tow up to 16k a few time a year. I haven't wished I had a diesel yet. These newer diesels are just not reliable, all thanks to government regs.
@@antonfloor344someone that tows daily for work? I own a hardscaping company and it made more sense to get a diesel. But different trucks for different needs 👍
Great points, my biggest issue with trucks now are they are all massive. My fathers F-350 from 2000's is now the size of a new tacoma all these trucks would be considered massive 20 years ago now its just the standard.
Yep. A couple years ago I paid almost $3000 for EGR repairs, and a year ago spent just under $1000 replacing turbo actuator, and then last month spent $4000 on replacing complete turbo assembly as the VGT had internal damage. I would rather a turbo with a waste gate instead of the VGT, but here we are. This is a 2015 Ram 2500 with over 200,000 miles, so after 9 years that's not too bad and the truck is still running strong. Oh, and I also replaced the battery and the radio died a few years ago.
As always, you lay down lots of useful information that help and guide us current/future Ram Cummins diesel droolers. My 2023 Ram HO Cummins is my first Dodge/Ram diesel besides my first 2017 6.7 powerstroke I replaced with my current truck. New subscriber here due to your knowledge and experience to Cummins diesel and for sharing your thoughts and experiences. Thank you for what you and please do keep up the awesome work. -Cheers from Boulder City/ Las Vegas Nevada!🍻
In my experience on the 5th gen 6.7, if you use an engine air filter that has glue strips along the bottom, they will cause the maf sensor to read inaccurately leading to dtc coming up. Always use an engine air filter without glue strips.
I did mention it at the end of the video. Iv never personally seen and I've seen alot of 6.7's. Clearly its an issue but thankfully there are some pretty simple fixes to mitigate that issue
great video so I got a new 22 ram Cummins got 8500 miles doing my first oil change now mostly all highway miles can you make a video. on what not to do and what you would do on the 6.7 Cummins how to prevent problems / maintenance like should you heat up your truck before using it if so to what temp does premium def work better than truck stop def when would you change the oil important fluids to do early or any other tips would like to keep this truck for a long time thanks
Greetings Alex. A pleasure to see yours videos and to listen yours comments. RAM and Cummins ... There is always a first time for everything; even to repair a great pick up 😢 Big HUG Alex! 😊
Now you have me were I'm afraid to drive my 2022 Dodge Dually around town. I don't drive it much, but from this video, it seems I shouldn't start it to let it idle. We plan to buy another truck camper in the next few months when the prices, hopefully drop but for now I guess I'll let my truck sit in my garage. I paid a lot of money for my Limited, quad cab dually , I even ordered the Aisin transmission, mated with a 3:73. Any advice on how to treat my investment? When I do drive it put the diesel break on. Is this correct? When we did have a camper a 10.2, Northern Lite, the truck handled it with ease and honestly I got a tad over 14 MPG. I only filled the DEF one time at a truck stop. 18 hundred miles. My last Ford, a 2006, F350 King Ranch only had 22 thousand miles when I sold it. It was a 4x2 but everyone said I would have problems. I never had the first problem with the exception of one of the battery cables come loose. I sold it for 34, to buy this 4x4 Dodge. Anyway advice would be nice. Great video by the way.
I like to know nonsense professional talk. Experience has value. Very educational. This helps point me in the right direction with my 2015 Ram 2500 Laramie limited turbo diesel issues.
I look at my 1998 24 valve,NV 4500,3500 in the corner of the shop thru different eyes now.What a nightmare.I'm starting to think the advantages of owning a newer diesel are fizzling away.
I had a few Cummins. But I absolutely hated my '15 with the 3.42 gears. Even not towing on the interstate I could drop 4 MPG from a simple headwind. Also Cummins is putsy while towing. Trying to pass on a 2 lane while towing can be white knuckling.
If your battery gets low, it will throw all sorts of funky unrelated unclear-able codes. It takes like 200 miles to clear them too after you replace the battery.
Please keep in mind while reading my rambling, that I'm not a mechanic by no means. But, In my opinion. It seems since there's so many issues with these "mandated" aftertreatment systems, that it's way past time to do a complete redesign of the entire system altogether. Something that doesn't include sending none of that trash back into the engine. Once the exhaust leaves the engine, the clean-up process happens between the exhaust manifold and the end of the exhaust pipe. A system that has nothing to do with the engine and therefore doesn't have any ill or negative effects on these diesels in any way. Putting this current system on these trucks has pretty much destroyed them in terms of what they use to be capable of. Just seems like it took away the reasoning for having a diesel to begin with. Including dependability, longevity, and fuel efficiency. Is there anyone out there that is working on a new system that solves this issue once and for all? Or any companies for that matter? I am currently in the talks with our local dealership about purchasing one of these Ram 2500's with the Cummins engine. Every time I'm just about the pull the trigger and buy one of these diesels, I see one of these videos talking about how these "Mandated" aftertreatment systems are crippling and destroying these things. It just seems like they're thinking about it all wrong with this current system. Time to go back to the drawing board and completely rethink and design something completely new and different. Again, I'm not a mechanic by any means. But it just seems that this current aftertreatment system has been proven to be a very bad idea, and yet they just keep on using it.
I have found with the new Cummins diesel engine that a lot of the emission issues are coming down to engine failures from cam and lifters. Mostly from lifters not staying pumped up. Non adjustable rockers on the new gens
Funny i saw your this for I'm having the very issues you are describing on my 2013 6.7 Big Horn 3500 only 58,000 miles! Now I feel really sick to my stomach ! We got a check engine light this week went to the shop today was told it looked like one of the codes was maybe pertaining to the turbo! I was also told 10,000 to fix if it was this problem ! All i can say at this point haul it to the wrecking yard !! I have had nothing but recall after recall on this truck! Whats weird it was running fine no missing, running hot issues running nice and smoothly no loss of power !!! I'm sick after watching this video !!!
You talked me into keeping my 6.0L gasser. Why isn't some kind of heat exchanger used to put heat into the intake as needed but not the soot-filled exhaust gas which clogs and breaks everything???
6:40 Idle time? When I bought my used '08 2500 Megacab in 2010, the owner said that he would let the truck idle at night in rest stops while he got some sleep in the back. Now I suppose I should buy and install a 'diesel fueled heater' and run it at night if I want to sleep in a warm truck.
Great series and reviews. Question. I know you clearly state that idling any of the current big 3 diesels is really bad for the engine/after treatment systems but maybe you can expand on this. All 3 manufacturers have built in high idle capabilities using the cruise up/down buttons to change the idle RPM's. Is there one of these engines that can better tolerate extended idling using increased RPM's on the high idle switching? If so, what rpm is most appropriate to set it at. I travel with a dog that needs air conditioning and sometimes I need to keep her in the truck for a couple hours while I work at a job site and need to idle the engine to keep the cab cool. Any help with this?
How much boost does your truck make at high idle with max air conditioning on? I think that if it’s working/making some boost it’s keeping it warmer than idle, probably less harmful than standard idle.
I have a 2016 6.7 2500. Delete it, get rid of the EGR, DEF system, DPF filter, run a conservative tune, the grid heater bolt is a known issue, get rid of it before it drops a bolt into your #6 cylinder. Best aftermarket mods for the 68rfe are a deep tranny pan, fluid bypass, temps will run at 140-150 instead of 170-180 and aluminum stiffening plate for the valve body. Change your CCV filter early, if you neglect it, oil can start getting pushed into your turbo which can make it fail permaturely. There may be other good mods, this is stuff ive done that has added to the reliability of the truck.
What's the fluid bypass? I have a 2014 6.7. Thought the transmission is bad, have replaced everything except valve body, still goes into limp mode at 5th-6th once up to temp. Noticed DEF is burning as fast as fuel. Thinking now my def system is bad and causing all the electrical codes. Hoping deleting fixes it.
@@cameronbachelor4066 The thermal bypass allows the fluid to flow unimpeded through the cooler instead of having the stock OEM valve open & shut when it reaches the required temp. When i added a deep tranny pan & thermal bypass my temps are 130-140 unloaded and max 150 loaded w/ a triple axel gooseneck here in florida. Another known failure point is the stock valve body on the 68rfe. Theres a billet aluminum stiffening plate that bolts up to it and stops it from warping. My guess would be, your valve body has already warped and your having shifting issues.
310,000 miles currently on my Cummins and runs as good as it did from New. Never had any issues with the engine or transmission. The only issue with this truck is the turbo actuator failed once at 296,000. Still no blowby and pulls like a beast. Was deleted at 95,000. My newer Cummins is going in to be deleted soon. Delete and regular service will make these trucks run trouble free for a long time
My question is regarding the ram 3500 HO, 2019. As a heavy deisel mechanic, do you see any true benefits to upgrading with legal of course Banks Power type products such as the air intakes, boost tubes etc.
I had a 2017 2500 Chevy HD and never had a single regen in 115k. I always drove it like I stole it...Never regened a single time. Even with service intervals I was ask by the dealership, due to checking and it never regened.
I have 2012 ram2500 6.7 and I am dodge diesel certified mechanic you supposed clean dpf around 80 thousand miles and egr cooler system I did so many trucks like that they went over 200 thousand miles and never changed dpf I cleaned on newer models and move I am doing dpf clean and egr cooler and the egr cooler piping intake and egr Valve cleaning on 22 model hot shot driver
I had my 19 ram cummins cp4 swap out for cp3 at the dealer free of charge. I just had put my truck on the list, and they'll call you when they get ur cp3 in. After that, my exhuast and egr system fell off on it somehow. At 60 to 70k miles, the egr valve and intake heater area clogs up with soot. Getting average 22 to 18 mpg now without load.
19-24 25 lifter failure. My 2022 failed at 26k miles. Dealership near me is so flooded with trucks for the same issue my truck has been there for 124 days and counting.
The heater grid nut melts off from the heater grid relay sticking. I just replaced the heater grid for this and the relay. there is a recall for this problem. also, we have a engine that has failed for this in the shop.
I have 6.7 for work, and 6.4 for everything else. They are both 2017, and both @ 100k. Diesel for beating it like a stepchild, gas for periodically towing.
@@TheGettyAdventures I just finished driving my 6.4L 2,400 miles cross country. I will let you know how 2,400 miles go in the other direction. At 98k miles it doesn't burn oil, and 22 mpg in those 3 days across country.
Ive had one for 4 years now, 90000 kms, use it for work, so far the dpf system has clogged up and needed to be cleaned out, new brakes and broke a rim thats it
Hello. Great video. This may be a dumb ?, but, could we possibly add a DPF before the EGR valve? I do understand that is one more "thing". I get that. But how about a super simple filter changed out like an oil filter. Or, something we can change in 10 minutes for $20. Even like every 1,000 miles or when needed.
I agree and purchased the GM because of the transmission among several other reasons. RAM has no excuse for not running a 10 speed like the competition especially for what they cost. Ford 6.7 diesels suck due to the CP4 oil pan leaks, spinning rod bearings etc. If they don't care enough to replace this known flawed pump then they can keep the garbage they make. Even their 7.3 gassers are eating camshafts and pumping metal throughout the engine.
My 17 (122k) Idles a Lot because my whole family goes every where together, and we sit and eat inside and attend to babies etc etc, take long trips out of state. It regens quite a bit. Engine no problems. My 68RFE is the problem.
Work truck is a 2022 Ram 6.7 Cummins. No issues with the engine so far, biggest issue is tire pressure system. 10k miles on the truck and have had it in for repair 3 times for same issue. Tire pressure system cycles through each tire showing each tire sensor disappearing until all 4 drop out, then 1 at a time they start working again. I drive on average 100 miles a day, happens 2-3 a day. Each time I take it in for warrantee it works fine for a few weeks, then back to the cycling. The shop acts like it's something I'm doing to cause it... about sick of it actually.
drive 3500 dually cummings i love the power of this truck actually great truck no complains I think gmc and ford deff got better interiors and comfort but cummings takes it
Great video - question: recently purchased a 2024 big horn (1000 miles on the truck only) and had to idle at two occasions to keep the AC running for the passengers in the car - each time 1 hour - do you think those two times alone are so detrimental and , I guess on that note, even after regen the damage they have already done is irreparable?
Possibly looking to get a ram 2500/3500 with the 6.7, on the truck specifically what should I look at when buying used, I have a tablet scanner so I can health report before buying, but I don't want to get screwed with a high idle hour truck haha
Hey brother I have a 2018 Ram 2500 truck and I’m going to install a Banks Monster-Ram intake system and inter cooler upgrade I would like to know your thoughts on the install so let me know thanks.
Nice video, you say idling is bad for the engine. But Also running hot is best, living in Canada it gets pretty cold. Basically have to idle every morning to get it warm. Do you recommend idle less ans drive it not as hard to start?
The biggest problem with these engines is the people buying them use them like a gas style truck. The diesel was intended to be used as a work truck and not the family/ soccer mom car.
Quick question: heard from another content creator who "Hot Shots," said the 2022 Cummins develops cam-wear issues (requiring a rebuild) at around 100k miles. The guy said he thinks it is related to the engine component shortage from COVID, where cheaper metals were used on the cam followers. What do you think?
idling down your turbo can be done in like 20 - 30 seconds. its not the hot oil that's the issues. its that your turbo is spinning still at very high rpm without oil being fed to it when you turn the engine off. once the turbo is spun down you can turn off the truck.
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I’ll sum up the main problems he mentioned. The government. That’s the problem.
As in Ronald Reagan said... "Govt IS the problem"
Amen to that! The government is killing all of them. It's like they don't even want engines to have freedom.
The government has left mine.
😂😂 well said!
Government vehicles are deleted so so is mine!! They have better health care, retirement, time off!! So no you don't get to have a better running engine than me!!! 😤
Great video.
I have 2016 Ram 3500 diesel longhorn from brand new. First five years I was using it on daily basis for on everage 250 miles per day pulling my construction trailer with different loads. Just reliable truck, always ready, never failed me. In 300000 miles now I changed the turbo actuator, banks air intake( the killer bolt was failing) and regular maintenance, truck runs still like new, really happy with this investment!
What's the killer bolt
@@toolhouseperformance3845grid heater power bolt corrodes and fall in intake then go in engine and damage cylinder 6
defeat device
I believe every word you say...picking up my 2024 Monday!!
On my 2018 Ram 2500, I had to drive it once a week on the highway for about 20 miles to complete a regen on the DPF. Driving around town didn’t get it hot enough and was headed towards a huge bill for a new DPF. The temps in the DPF would easily go over 1000F in regen. Problem was solved with an “emissions surgery” and tuner. Great video!!
How u know need a regen and when is complete?
@@pr4lviper : Used the Edge CTS monitor to see the regen start. You can see the DPF temps rise rapidly during the regen. As far as when it needed a regen, I could see the process start a few times (with the EDGE CTS monitor) during the week and it would usually get interrupted if I needed to stop for whatever reason. The after treatment system would okay if you are driving on the highway most of the time, but that wasn't how I was using the truck.
Well anyone who got stuck buying a Ford, GM or Dodge truck time to go back to school this time to learn. Want a quality truck or car Toyota or Honda period. And if you got to much junk or stuff to haul, try hiring someone to do it or better yet get rid of it, and find another job. Because the rest of us on the road don't like or want to see you monster trucks boring down on the rest of us. Thanks hope this helps.
@@vietnamvet4533really? So you want me to pay someone to plow my properties and my clients, and to tow my boat and landscaping trailers around when I need them? How about mind your business and if you don't like being around big trucks on the road, then get off it.
@@PoliticallyIncorrectMechanic Well I am a numbers guy. You spend 83k on truck add in the interest in 6 years and that is 100k. Add in fuel and insurance at say 8K a year and the total is 148k. You can hire a ton of workers for that. And since you posted I guess it is now my business.
75% of the problems with new diesel engines regardless of the brand, regardless how hard you run them, is emission systems, might be the filter failure, might be the def sensors, mostly its the egr but its always something that has to do with the emission system, and the mpg's on all the different brands proves this 100%.
And is the number one reason I haven't bought a new truck.
@@ScottDLR my brother hit 110k on his Ram and had to spend 9k for new emission system can't delete in Cali
@@concretejungle77 That's horendous!
Ship them All to China 🇨🇳 👍🤛⚾️
You really can't delete them anywhere, but that doesn't stop it from being done. For off road use only. ;-) @@concretejungle77
I was close to buying one of these, but your video provided me with enough reasons to go back to the drawing table and reevaluate the whole idea.
What did you buy
@@luisarevalo8394 I decided to keep my 2004 Toyota truck for a couple more years. Yes, it’s 20 years old but it still does everything I require.
Weird how these engines not only become more reliable but also more fuel efficient without all the emission bs. Leave it to the idiots in gov to screw something up that didn’t need fixing.
And burn cleaner too!
Yeah they go up and up in power, more and more emission problems, and less fuel efficient. And the prices have gone past stupid.
far from an accurate statement. They run richer, less efficient, and the cylinders become fuel washed with excess fuel.
Guess you don't care about your lungs...
@@pedrolabrada5591 no it runs richer and makes the engine less reliable. This channel's mechanic should learn what he is talking about before spewing garbage.
Is it not amazing what government regulations can do to a fine engine design?
Dont worry…I’m from the government and I’m here to help…😂
But yet there’s are deleted from the Factory.
@@christopherwilson7698 DOD vehicles are exempt as well.
Heres a nugget for idling. When sitting in traffic or stopped for longer than a few minutes, turn the cruise control on and hit the minus bitton on the cruise control. Your RPM’s are increased to around 1400 to mitigate DPF problems and keep it cleaner.
You have to be in park for that.
@@Cardiakk Yes sir, thanx 4 adding that, I did not state that.
👍😃🍻
I am a Ram technician. If I might offer a little insight your three common issues, and I will keep it to the 2019 and newer (it is a different engine and overall system). And please know that what I see is common to the Southeast region. #1- Aftertreatment failures are now usually due to the fuel filters not properly being maintained (10k-15K miles. Usually I recommend to my customers do them during their oil change), incorrect air filter installed (must be the type without the glue strips and no aftermarket like K&N), or the lack of EGR system maintenance. Also go to the dealer and make sure the most recent software has been flashed in the PCM (It will usually cost you about an hour). #2- If the EGR system is properly maintained at the proper intervals, you shouldn't have an issue. Many of my commercial clients have several hundred thousand miles on their trucks and are operating with much of the original equipment. There is a message that comes on in the dash "Perform Service" usually about 70k miles (67.5K miles on 2018 & prior) and requires that the EGR cooler & cross-over tube be soaked & cleaned, and the CCV filter be replaced. The EGR valve on 2018 and prior can be disassembled and the mechanics can be cleaned but unfortunately 2019 & newer cannot (at least I haven't found a way). The cleaner I really like is EGR Cleaner by Mopar. I use it full strength and let the parts soak overnight. To soak the cooler I made a blank that I seal with RTV at one end of the cooler then fill it up. ***If you have a lot of idle time, I recommend this service more frequently.*** #3- The turbo and actuator are terribly misunderstood (and mistreated). I will start with the turbo; AGAIN, IF YOU ARE PROPERLY MAINTAINING YOUR EGR SYSTEM, you shouldn't have any problems with the veins nor the impeller in your turbocharger. Now the actuator; usually when you have an issue with the actuator, there are generally a couple of codes. I don't remember them off hand but the most common will be a loss of communication, active or stored and usually a symptom of no power or intermittent loss of power (dangerous if you are pulling out into traffic). The other code is related to calibration (if I remember correctly). I find in most cases that people are driving the hell out of their trucks. Over speed limit, towing 15k-20k pounds, or more, down the road. Get to the destination and shut off the engine! What does hot coolant, sitting in a hot engine with no circulation, do...? It gets hotter. That hotter coolant is in the actuator (as well as, its attached to the hot turbo, which is attached to the hot exhaust manifold). Are you seeing the problem....? The circuit board in the actuator gets cold solder breaks from excessive heat to cold, repetitively. When you get to your destination, let your truck idle for 10 minutes. It really is that simple to extend the life of your actuator.
Much of this can be extended to 2018 & prior. The real message here is maintain your truck. You spent $50k-$100k+ for your truck! Research it! That and find yourself a good Mopar tech that you can trust.
I just bought a 2022 ram 2500 with 9k miles. Any advice?
………..”and find yourself a good tech”…………..yea, good luck with that!
Yeah , trade it for a Tundra !😝👍
@@bobmariano3731lmao. Tundra can’t even match this performance. Plus this is a diesel and tundra doesn’t make them.
The dealer that performed the EGR cooler and EGR valve cleaning on my 2019 used a CCR product and an air compressor line. I asked if that was truly the manufacturer's recommended service method and they said it is an accepted method. The method you described is what I was expecting. The dealer in my area is huge.
Also, I use Schaeffer's Carbon Treat on every fill up. I thought it would help with keeping my emissions cleaner. I am at 100K miles and the truck does a regen about every 150 miles. It is driving me crazy. I change the oil at 10K and the fuel filters at 15K, the CCV filter at 70, changing the trans fluid and filter every 30K now with synthetic, changed the differential lube with Schaeffer's, changed the transfer case fluid. I am trying my best to make this truck last and getting P-2459 codes occasionally.
Would love to see you make a video detailing these after-treatment systems from a mechanic's perspective
Ya I think I'm going to do it. seems like people are interested.
I was about to pull the trigger on a Ram diesel. After watching your video, I realized I am one of those you described who doesn't drive very far. Even though I pull a moderate-sized fifth wheel, it is only half a dozen times a year. I'll be sticking with my 2018 35Heavy Dutyu 6.4. (yeah, it's got a Hemi!) Great video presence with great, honest info. Thanks!
Running with the exhaust brake on prolongs turbo life in my experience. Have had one '19 two '18's go north of 200,000 miles with factory turbo and actuator. Turn it on every time you get in the truck. (I have an '06 5.9 with over 500k but that's a totally different animal) current '21 HO only has 55k and so far, issue free
saves your brakes too. I'd run my exhaust brake the whole time also. lol and yes the 5.9 are what we used to call a reliable diesel engine
So I should RUN with my exhaust break on? I have a 2022, brand new 1900 miles. Sold my camper so it mostly sits in my garage.
@@horsetrader1991
I would if I were you especially since you're not towing a trailer anymore. When the truck is under load, the vanes in the turbo work more often, they are less likely to stick or get "carboned up". Slow rolling around town will cause the vanes to become dirty and freeze up. Put the automatic exhaust brake on at least. I usually run full exhaust brake but it can be aggressive when empty. By running with the exhaust brake on I have not experienced any turbo or actuator issues in the several hundred thousand miles I have put on these trucks.
@horsetrader1991 any recall on your 2022? I was reading something about year 2022. Diesel engines.
@@efraingarciaescalante2824 I have a '21 so not sure about '22 recalls. Browsing the web it appears some '22s are experiencing cam and lifter issues. Haven't seen anything about 21 having the same problem. There's other recalls for 21 for the tailgate and intake heater bolt/relay
I really appreciate this video. I love my 2013 6.7 Tradesman. I have cleaned, repaired, or replaced most every component of the emissions system and probably will be replacing some systems again. I run a lot fuel additives and just made a 1,000 mile trip from Georgia to Missouri over the weekend where it really performed. You are so right about short trips. Around the farm this thing makes lots of starts and stops and pulls hard when not at full temp. A brutal life Thanks again for your video
My wife's 2018 6.7L runs best with Hot Shots Secret EDT added to the fuel at every fill up.
Last year, the P20EE code kept coming up every 3 weeks. 4 trips to the dealer that replaced the SCR, Nox sensor, DEF fluid replacement, and reflashed software. The last time the code showed up I noticed the battery was a little off. Went to Walmart for a new AGM battery. It has been 9 months since any issues. The engine runs smoother and with better fuel economy.
I have been using Rotella T6 5w40 oil all year round since 700 miles.
Also got a Bank's intake elbow to avoid the dreaded heater grid bolt issue.
Interesting, I'll have to see what that hot shots EDT is all about. but yes multiple trips to the dealer is not unheard of. sometimes these codes just keep coming back and its tough to get to the bottom of them. happy the trucks is running well now!
Minus emissions, the best resolve would be a high quality clean tune. Your engine will love you for it.
Deleted diesel is a happy diesel
Very happy!
Damn right
Yup!
100k miles, and over 1k idle hours on stock system. Just maxing out the weight keeps everything working normal.
A deleted diesel is happier than an itchy pig up against a picket fence!!!
as a retired Mopar tech, heavy line/ transmissions. i worked on a lot of the Cummins engine. the biggest cause of any failure on these trucks, were caused by the owner. people bought a work truck they tried to use as a pleasure vehicle. seen alot of these vehicle 3/4 ton 4 x 4 drove by the wife because see wanted to be cool/hip, in the now. people that worked these vehicle had very little issues and usually high mileage when they did. i also seen head gasket failure on these engine, but where either high mileage or had aftermarket equipment boosting power, which would lift the head off the gasket and would eventually fail. the stock high mileage head gasket failure, would usually leak externally from parts of the gasket deteriorating, till leak occured.
I can second this, I use my 21 3500 for heavy towing, only issue so far was dead batteries, I’m at 200k miles
Your claim seems valid in general, though I see many hot shot and heavy haulers with Ram Cummins having many issues with their trucks.
I ordered a 2017 RAM 3500 Limited Mega cab SRW truck with the high output Cummins and Aisin transmission. I now have 208K miles with zero issues, other than heater failure. I'm in southern California so I rarely use the heater, but I need to get it checked out. I drive an average of 200 miles, mostly highway, every day I run it, about 4 days per week. I tow my 15K pound 5th wheel about 5 times per year. I religiously change oil & both fuel filters every 15K miles. I've changes the CCV filter one time at about 100K miles, so I need to do that again. I do sit idling for up to 15-20 minutes at times, but then drive it many miles again before shutting it down. I also let it idle for about 10-15 minutes after towing to let things cool down well. I need to take it in for the EPA recall this month. I've seen where nothing really changes other than the DEF gauge running toward empty faster. They say it doesn't use more DEF, the gauge just runs down faster. I hear that mileage and performance do not suffer at all. I use the freshest DEF I can find, and never let the DEF tank go below half full. This video scares the crap out of me, so I just take the best care of my truck, and maintain the fuel filters using only Mopar filters. . .
I really appreciate you posting this video going over these issues that most buyers (like me) have no idea of or at best a very remote idea as to what can happen with this motor which I was going to get in the new 2023 Rebel 2500 or 2024 Laramie, however after listening your explanation of the intricacies innate to this engine and likeliness of malfunctions that can happen with not fault at all of driver/owner I will go with the HEMI 6.4 gasoline, many thanks.
Good stuff bro, my 2021 motor went bad due to a plugged egr, like a chain reaction….all types of issues you just went over … so iffy about getting me a new truck with warranty however I think I learned a valuable lesson with my 6.7 HO …it lasted 200k miles however towing everyday……lol…
The third thing you can do to reduce soot is use a Quality fuel additive. One that increases cetane which makes the fuel burn easier and more efficiently.
i agree here, but I think the high end cummins recommended additives are actually improving fuel atomization. I notice longer regen intervals and better fuel economy.
I did a delete with a tune, and all my exhaust issues went away, also added a Fass oil water seperato system....got a good 11 year run. Now I'm dealing with ECM and ABS Module, on a 2013 Ram 2500 6.7
I had a 2018 ram 2500 Cummins
I traded it in for my new 22 F350 crew cab long bed with the powerstroke
No regrets
Powerstroke is a solid engine 👌
Easiest fix for diesels is a nice weight loss program!!
Cut the emissions off. Allegedly
What's the fine? When caught
@@mnels18 Just $3 and a glass of beer to the already drunk officer/chp/sheriff/police.
one thing that has helped me with the frequency regeneration was to add a cummins approved fuel additive. My only theory as to why it helps is that these additives probably improve fuel atomization at the injector as well as keeping the injectors clean.
All fuel injectors , both gas & diesel should have a continuous maintenance of administration of cleaner
Yes, please talk about the Regen systems.🙏🏾
Thanks!😎
I've found that fuel catalysts like Better Diesel which burn soot at a lower temperature slows how fast the DPF fills up and gets that passive regen going quicker.
Good quality diesel is so critical of these engines. Shitty diesel will cause lots of issues.
What company produces the best diesel? Chevron, Shell? I hear BP, but I don’t have one in my area.
#2 only for my 6.7 no cheap dirty stinky bio
@@kevinwhitton6595 That really doesn't matter. Typically, all fuel gets put in the same storage tank after transportation through the pipeline. The trucks that deliver the fuel to the stations all draw from that same tank. Focus on well maintained stations that move high volume.
Their is an holset actuator problem right now. The housing at the bottom is a little big. Also the real main problem with the 6.7 Cummins is the grid heater stud and nut rotting away and getting smashed into the top of a piston.
I personally run the automatic exhaust brake all the time to save my brakes. But I have heard mixed opinions about whether or not that is good for your turbo. My philosophy is moving parts that continuously move are less likely to seize. But I’d like to hear your opinion and other pros and cons
The cummins exhaust brake is the best on the market forsure. I mean constantly running it will put more back pressure on the turbo but in my opinion I don't like it will shorten the life of the turbo. Have it contently working it probably the better optikn
@@TheGettyAdventures I also read that the back pressure is for cleaning the turbo veins of soot, but I’m not sure how truthful that is
I run it in automatic, and tow mode on full time. I idle the life out of it, but work it like a slav3 with oil change every 5k miles.
@@e.l.95895k miles?? You don't need to change anywhere near that often.
@@Cardiakk You are not taking into account my idle hours, and MAXED OUT towing daily. It all falls under business expenses, so nothing to save by not doing it.
2020 6.7 here…. Please share your knowledge on aftermarket items like cold air intake and catch cans. Thank you. Love the channel!
To me the risk was not worth the reward. I went with the 6.4L. I tow up to 16k a few time a year. I haven't wished I had a diesel yet. These newer diesels are just not reliable, all thanks to government regs.
Exactly the new gas engine can handle more and more weight and the diesels just keep getting more and more complicated
@TheGettyAdventures Keep up the good content, my man.
6.4 is best of all. Who needs diesel if you got a great V8
@@antonfloor344someone that tows daily for work? I own a hardscaping company and it made more sense to get a diesel. But different trucks for different needs 👍
Yes to the after treatment video. Both DPF alone & SCR & DPF systems
Great points, my biggest issue with trucks now are they are all massive. My fathers F-350 from 2000's is now the size of a new tacoma all these trucks would be considered massive 20 years ago now its just the standard.
Massive is good
Yep. A couple years ago I paid almost $3000 for EGR repairs, and a year ago spent just under $1000 replacing turbo actuator, and then last month spent $4000 on replacing complete turbo assembly as the VGT had internal damage. I would rather a turbo with a waste gate instead of the VGT, but here we are.
This is a 2015 Ram 2500 with over 200,000 miles, so after 9 years that's not too bad and the truck is still running strong.
Oh, and I also replaced the battery and the radio died a few years ago.
As always, you lay down lots of useful information that help and guide us current/future Ram Cummins diesel droolers. My 2023 Ram HO Cummins is my first Dodge/Ram diesel besides my first 2017 6.7 powerstroke I replaced with my current truck. New subscriber here due to your knowledge and experience to Cummins diesel and for sharing your thoughts and experiences. Thank you for what you and please do keep up the awesome work.
-Cheers from Boulder City/ Las Vegas Nevada!🍻
In my experience on the 5th gen 6.7, if you use an engine air filter that has glue strips along the bottom, they will cause the maf sensor to read inaccurately leading to dtc coming up. Always use an engine air filter without glue strips.
I love how this guy never just shits on a manufacturer or engine. Just things to look for. Kudos
Don't forget about that heater grid bolt that will burn off and fall into the number 6 cylinder.
I did mention it at the end of the video. Iv never personally seen and I've seen alot of 6.7's. Clearly its an issue but thankfully there are some pretty simple fixes to mitigate that issue
My son's 17 ate the nut for the heater grid as it broke into rusty flakes. Cost him a new turbo and a rebuilt head, luckily no piston damage
great video so I got a new 22 ram Cummins
got 8500 miles doing my first oil change now mostly all highway miles
can you make a video. on
what not to do and what you would do on the 6.7 Cummins how to prevent problems / maintenance
like
should you heat up your truck before using it if so to what temp
does premium def work better than truck stop def
when would you change the oil
important fluids to do early
or any other tips would like to keep this truck for a long time
thanks
Yes, all of those questions would be great to hear answered!
Greetings Alex.
A pleasure to see yours videos and to listen yours comments.
RAM and Cummins ... There is always a first time for everything; even to repair a great pick up 😢
Big HUG Alex! 😊
Yes, next week I'm towing with this beast! should be a good video, hope you like it
Now you have me were I'm afraid to drive my 2022 Dodge Dually around town. I don't drive it much, but from this video, it seems I shouldn't start it to let it idle. We plan to buy another truck camper in the next few months when the prices, hopefully drop but for now I guess I'll let my truck sit in my garage. I paid a lot of money for my Limited, quad cab dually , I even ordered the Aisin transmission, mated with a 3:73. Any advice on how to treat my investment? When I do drive it put the diesel break on. Is this correct? When we did have a camper a 10.2, Northern Lite, the truck handled it with ease and honestly I got a tad over 14 MPG. I only filled the DEF one time at a truck stop. 18 hundred miles. My last Ford, a 2006, F350 King Ranch only had 22 thousand miles when I sold it. It was a 4x2 but everyone said I would have problems. I never had the first problem with the exception of one of the battery cables come loose. I sold it for 34, to buy this 4x4 Dodge. Anyway advice would be nice. Great video by the way.
I like to know nonsense professional talk. Experience has value. Very educational. This helps point me in the right direction with my 2015 Ram 2500 Laramie limited turbo diesel issues.
I look at my 1998 24 valve,NV 4500,3500 in the corner of the shop thru different eyes now.What a nightmare.I'm starting to think the advantages of owning a newer diesel are fizzling away.
Yup. The old diesels were much simpler beasts
I had a few Cummins. But I absolutely hated my '15 with the 3.42 gears. Even not towing on the interstate I could drop 4 MPG from a simple headwind. Also Cummins is putsy while towing. Trying to pass on a 2 lane while towing can be white knuckling.
The top end power on the cummins is not the greatest I agree with you there
If your battery gets low, it will throw all sorts of funky unrelated unclear-able codes. It takes like 200 miles to clear them too after you replace the battery.
Please keep in mind while reading my rambling, that I'm not a mechanic by no means.
But, In my opinion. It seems since there's so many issues with these "mandated" aftertreatment systems, that it's way past time to do a complete redesign of the entire system altogether. Something that doesn't include sending none of that trash back into the engine.
Once the exhaust leaves the engine, the clean-up process happens between the exhaust manifold and the end of the exhaust pipe. A system that has nothing to do with the engine and therefore doesn't have any ill or negative effects on these diesels in any way. Putting this current system on these trucks has pretty much destroyed them in terms of what they use to be capable of. Just seems like it took away the reasoning for having a diesel to begin with. Including dependability, longevity, and fuel efficiency.
Is there anyone out there that is working on a new system that solves this issue once and for all? Or any companies for that matter?
I am currently in the talks with our local dealership about purchasing one of these Ram 2500's with the Cummins engine.
Every time I'm just about the pull the trigger and buy one of these diesels, I see one of these videos talking about how these "Mandated" aftertreatment systems are crippling and destroying these things.
It just seems like they're thinking about it all wrong with this current system. Time to go back to the drawing board and completely rethink and design something completely new and different.
Again, I'm not a mechanic by any means. But it just seems that this current aftertreatment system has been proven to be a very bad idea, and yet they just keep on using it.
Can u imagine if cummins woulda made a pre emissions 6.7!! Holy hell hold on!!!!
would of been nice!
I have found with the new Cummins diesel engine that a lot of the emission issues are coming down to engine failures from cam and lifters. Mostly from lifters not staying pumped up. Non adjustable rockers on the new gens
Funny i saw your this for I'm having the very issues you are describing on my 2013 6.7 Big Horn 3500 only 58,000 miles! Now I feel really sick to my stomach ! We got a check engine light this week went to the shop today was told it looked like one of the codes was maybe pertaining to the turbo! I was also told 10,000 to fix if it was this problem ! All i can say at this point haul it to the wrecking yard !! I have had nothing but recall after recall on this truck! Whats weird it was running fine no missing, running hot issues running nice and smoothly no loss of power !!! I'm sick after watching this video !!!
You talked me into keeping my 6.0L gasser.
Why isn't some kind of heat exchanger used to put heat into the intake as needed but not the soot-filled exhaust gas which clogs and breaks everything???
Great video, very informative. Really appreciate your knowledge on the Cummins engine.Thank you very much.
6:40 Idle time? When I bought my used '08 2500 Megacab in 2010, the owner said that he would let the truck idle at night in rest stops while he got some sleep in the back. Now I suppose I should buy and install a 'diesel fueled heater' and run it at night if I want to sleep in a warm truck.
Yes, send me a video on what the diesel needs for DPF to run it. A lot of us would like to know what would be best
So the best way to deal with most of these issues is to accidentally hit a bump and have your emission systems fall off?
Great series and reviews. Question. I know you clearly state that idling any of the current big 3 diesels is really bad for the engine/after treatment systems but maybe you can expand on this. All 3 manufacturers have built in high idle capabilities using the cruise up/down buttons to change the idle RPM's. Is there one of these engines that can better tolerate extended idling using increased RPM's on the high idle switching? If so, what rpm is most appropriate to set it at. I travel with a dog that needs air conditioning and sometimes I need to keep her in the truck for a couple hours while I work at a job site and need to idle the engine to keep the cab cool. Any help with this?
Does anyone have any thoughts or insights on this?
How much boost does your truck make at high idle with max air conditioning on? I think that if it’s working/making some boost it’s keeping it warmer than idle, probably less harmful than standard idle.
I have a 2016 6.7 2500. Delete it, get rid of the EGR, DEF system, DPF filter, run a conservative tune, the grid heater bolt is a known issue, get rid of it before it drops a bolt into your #6 cylinder. Best aftermarket mods for the 68rfe are a deep tranny pan, fluid bypass, temps will run at 140-150 instead of 170-180 and aluminum stiffening plate for the valve body. Change your CCV filter early, if you neglect it, oil can start getting pushed into your turbo which can make it fail permaturely. There may be other good mods, this is stuff ive done that has added to the reliability of the truck.
What's the fluid bypass? I have a 2014 6.7. Thought the transmission is bad, have replaced everything except valve body, still goes into limp mode at 5th-6th once up to temp. Noticed DEF is burning as fast as fuel. Thinking now my def system is bad and causing all the electrical codes. Hoping deleting fixes it.
@@cameronbachelor4066 The thermal bypass allows the fluid to flow unimpeded through the cooler instead of having the stock OEM valve open & shut when it reaches the required temp. When i added a deep tranny pan & thermal bypass my temps are 130-140 unloaded and max 150 loaded w/ a triple axel gooseneck here in florida. Another known failure point is the stock valve body on the 68rfe. Theres a billet aluminum stiffening plate that bolts up to it and stops it from warping. My guess would be, your valve body has already warped and your having shifting issues.
310,000 miles currently on my Cummins and runs as good as it did from New. Never had any issues with the engine or transmission. The only issue with this truck is the turbo actuator failed once at 296,000. Still no blowby and pulls like a beast. Was deleted at 95,000. My newer Cummins is going in to be deleted soon. Delete and regular service will make these trucks run trouble free for a long time
Why do the government trucks come without emissions? They know it causes problems and they don't want to deal with it.
Use Lucas dpf deep clean it works!
My question is regarding the ram 3500 HO, 2019. As a heavy deisel mechanic, do you see any true benefits to upgrading with legal of course Banks Power type products such as the air intakes, boost tubes etc.
I had a 2017 2500 Chevy HD and never had a single regen in 115k. I always drove it like I stole it...Never regened a single time. Even with service intervals I was ask by the dealership, due to checking and it never regened.
Only 500 miles left on my Warranty and i think I've got a plan to remedy problem #1 and #2 🤫😉
I have 2012 ram2500 6.7 and I am dodge diesel certified mechanic you supposed clean dpf around 80 thousand miles and egr cooler system I did so many trucks like that they went over 200 thousand miles and never changed dpf I cleaned on newer models and move I am doing dpf clean and egr cooler and the egr cooler piping intake and egr Valve cleaning on 22 model hot shot driver
I’ll never understand why they want your bed to fall apart. The rear liners are like $190 as an add on. Just include them! Specially on a big horn.
I don't even want to think about buying a new 6.7. Looks like I'll be keping my 2007 5.9 Cummins forever!
I wouldn't. All junk these days.
I had my 19 ram cummins cp4 swap out for cp3 at the dealer free of charge. I just had put my truck on the list, and they'll call you when they get ur cp3 in. After that, my exhuast and egr system fell off on it somehow. At 60 to 70k miles, the egr valve and intake heater area clogs up with soot. Getting average 22 to 18 mpg now without load.
Well my 2014 3500 had a gasket failure between the two back cylinders did a whole top end rebuild with stronger head studs
19-24 25 lifter failure. My 2022 failed at 26k miles. Dealership near me is so flooded with trucks for the same issue my truck has been there for 124 days and counting.
Would love to see a video on the regenning :)
I'll have to get one done!
Great video and advice. What EGT would you recommend before you shut down the engine?
I think the 5th and 2nd gen are the best looking diesel trucks to ever hit the market.
The heater grid nut melts off from the heater grid relay sticking. I just replaced the heater grid for this and the relay. there is a recall for this problem. also, we have a engine that has failed for this in the shop.
Owning a 6.4 Hemi, and working on 6.7, which would you prefer? which would do you think will stand the test of time?
I have 6.7 for work, and 6.4 for everything else. They are both 2017, and both @ 100k. Diesel for beating it like a stepchild, gas for periodically towing.
the way I use my truck the 6.4 hemi will be a more reliable engine. but if driven and maintained well the 6.7 will outlast the hemi without a doubt.
@@TheGettyAdventures I just finished driving my 6.4L 2,400 miles cross country. I will let you know how 2,400 miles go in the other direction. At 98k miles it doesn't burn oil, and 22 mpg in those 3 days across country.
Made it back.
If you haven’t already. Could you do a video like this on the ram 6.4 hemi?
I certainly can!
Ive had one for 4 years now, 90000 kms, use it for work, so far the dpf system has clogged up and needed to be cleaned out, new brakes and broke a rim thats it
And whatever update to the ecu they put on you Cummins after installing the cp3... makes it real iffy with tunes being flashed on it. Always a caveat
interesting discussion man ... thanks for posting
So what I’m hearing is since I run hotshots all I have to do is what I normally do. ( maybe pedal to the metal going up the hills)
I’m seeing a lot of Ram owners talking about their heater not blowing hot. I’m having the problem myself and have no idea what’s going on.
Is the grid heater bolt on all year Cummins? And how long is to long to let a diesel truck sit without running? Great video by the way!
How about a comparison video on difficulty to change EGR and dpf between the big three diesels brands.
Hello. Great video. This may be a dumb ?, but, could we possibly add a DPF before the EGR valve? I do understand that is one more "thing". I get that. But how about a super simple filter changed out like an oil filter. Or, something we can change in 10 minutes for $20. Even like every 1,000 miles or when needed.
I respect the Cummins engine, I'm just not a Ram fan. Can't get behind the 68rfe. Now, if I could find an Aisin, then maybe
I agree and purchased the GM because of the transmission among several other reasons.
RAM has no excuse for not running a 10 speed like the competition especially for what they cost.
Ford 6.7 diesels suck due to the CP4 oil pan leaks, spinning rod bearings etc. If they don't care enough to replace this known flawed pump then they can keep the garbage they make. Even their 7.3 gassers are eating camshafts and pumping metal throughout the engine.
I towed with this truck and boy was the 6 speed transmission a weak point. engine is awesome but the shift points killed it.
Great info. Do you know if the Banks intakes help out with the sooting or are they worth it? Thanks
My 17 (122k) Idles a Lot because my whole family goes every where together, and we sit and eat inside and attend to babies etc etc, take long trips out of state. It regens quite a bit. Engine no problems. My 68RFE is the problem.
I want to see somebody perform exhaust analyzing during the re-gen cycle so that we know how much pollution the trucks are putting out.
I don’t even own one but was fascinating to just listen and what all the details in your video.
Work truck is a 2022 Ram 6.7 Cummins. No issues with the engine so far, biggest issue is tire pressure system. 10k miles on the truck and have had it in for repair 3 times for same issue. Tire pressure system cycles through each tire showing each tire sensor disappearing until all 4 drop out, then 1 at a time they start working again. I drive on average 100 miles a day, happens 2-3 a day.
Each time I take it in for warrantee it works fine for a few weeks, then back to the cycling. The shop acts like it's something I'm doing to cause it... about sick of it actually.
drive 3500 dually cummings i love the power of this truck actually great truck no complains I think gmc and ford deff got better interiors and comfort but cummings takes it
Great video - question: recently purchased a 2024 big horn (1000 miles on the truck only) and had to idle at two occasions to keep the AC running for the passengers in the car - each time 1 hour - do you think those two times alone are so detrimental and , I guess on that note, even after regen the damage they have already done is irreparable?
Possibly looking to get a ram 2500/3500 with the 6.7, on the truck specifically what should I look at when buying used, I have a tablet scanner so I can health report before buying, but I don't want to get screwed with a high idle hour truck haha
Hey brother I have a 2018 Ram 2500 truck and I’m going to install a Banks Monster-Ram intake system and inter cooler upgrade I would like to know your thoughts on the install so let me know thanks.
Nice video, you say idling is bad for the engine. But Also running hot is best, living in Canada it gets pretty cold. Basically have to idle every morning to get it warm. Do you recommend idle less ans drive it not as hard to start?
Hi, great video. What do you mean by running it heavy and hard? Heavy would mean put a load on it, but I'm not sure I follow the hard part.
The biggest problem with these engines is the people buying them use them like a gas style truck. The diesel was intended to be used as a work truck and not the family/ soccer mom car.
Quick question: heard from another content creator who "Hot Shots," said the 2022 Cummins develops cam-wear issues (requiring a rebuild) at around 100k miles. The guy said he thinks it is related to the engine component shortage from COVID, where cheaper metals were used on the cam followers. What do you think?
Ya I heard the same. Don’t buy a 22. Allegedly
@@rogerweisse1213 too late 🤔
Can you PLEASE make a buyers guide for the 6.7 rams?... im planning to buy something from 2012-2016 and i want to know what to look for.
You are talking about the turbo. So when you turn off the key. Is there anything to keep the motor running till it cools down. Safe to stop the engine
I’ve heard to avoid soot build up is to run the exhaust brake
How do you feel about additives? Hot shots or Archoil?
Let your turbo cool down after you arrive at your destination, atleast 10 minutes, oil gets hot let it cool , don't be hesitant to let it cool
You can run a turbo timer or something I do, turn the truck off, get out and lock it, remote start it. There is a 10 min timer and it will shut off
With the water cooled turbos on the newer trucks very little cool down time is needed.
@@1hasbeen531 yeah I bet. I just do it for good measure kind of like changing my fluids/filters early lol.
idling down your turbo can be done in like 20 - 30 seconds. its not the hot oil that's the issues. its that your turbo is spinning still at very high rpm without oil being fed to it when you turn the engine off. once the turbo is spun down you can turn off the truck.