Hey BTBRV could u tour a cedar creek 355lf they don’t make them anymore but it’s a 3 bed 1 and 1/2 bath fifth wheel and there are no good videos on it! Thanks!
JD, I would have moved bracket froward to the front of trailer so it was on the rail flat. Like 3” or what ever that extra raised thick piece is. That few inches wouldn’t have hurt anything and would look much cleaner. Just my thought looks like a great product and the older a guy gets the tougher things get….
I thought it was a great product also give it 2-3 months and watch when it don’t go back up and if you open it there’s a good chance you take a finger off..GOOD LUCK
That certainly makes lifting that gate easier. The building is beautiful also. All your hard work and great videos over the years have payed off. I've been following you since your first drill review, your trucks, trailers. Always great advice. You definitely deserve credit. Kenny
That's a really good addition to the heavy gate on that trailer. One other potential solution to your bolt problem could have been rivet nuts. They make them to work with material up to half inch thick. They're pretty solid fasteners perfect for blind holes like your fully-boxed rail trailer. My F150 has a couple Rivet nuts in it to repair threads in my tailgate access panel. I have a few in the interior to secure cameras to the headliner.
As a hind sight kind of situation, i would've mounted the rails a few inches farther forward. That was they aren't sitting ontop of those cap plates creating a gap underneath the end. And then the self drilling screws would've only had to go through the box tubing. Probably not an issue the way you did it more so just a preference.
Use 3/8 rive nuts or drill and tap 4 1/4 in bolts or square ubolts and clamp lit together
Hey BTBRV could u tour a cedar creek 355lf they don’t make them anymore but it’s a 3 bed 1 and 1/2 bath fifth wheel and there are no good videos on it! Thanks!
If the self tappers don't work in the long run. Give nutzerts a try. They were designed just for applications like yours.
If it were me, I would not paint to match. I think the contrasting yellow looks good.
JD, I would have moved bracket froward to the front of trailer so it was on the rail flat. Like 3” or what ever that extra raised thick piece is. That few inches wouldn’t have hurt anything and would look much cleaner. Just my thought looks like a great product and the older a guy gets the tougher things get….
‘U’ bolts
They make self tapping bolts. They hold a lot better than screws
I thought it was a great product also give it 2-3 months and watch when it don’t go back up and if you open it there’s a good chance you take a finger off..GOOD LUCK
Should of just nutsert it and just used regular bolts
I found a lot of talking and little demonstration. Neat product though so that's helpful
That certainly makes lifting that gate easier. The building is beautiful also.
All your hard work and great videos over the years have payed off. I've been following you since your first drill review, your trucks, trailers. Always great advice. You definitely deserve credit.
Kenny
Wow you go way back my friend! Thanks for the continued support! It's is very much appreciated 👍
Interesting attachment. Good job
Why not weld a flat piece of steel to the side of the lift and bolt or weld that to the top rail.
Other channel?
That's a really good addition to the heavy gate on that trailer. One other potential solution to your bolt problem could have been rivet nuts. They make them to work with material up to half inch thick. They're pretty solid fasteners perfect for blind holes like your fully-boxed rail trailer. My F150 has a couple Rivet nuts in it to repair threads in my tailgate access panel. I have a few in the interior to secure cameras to the headliner.
That’s a very heavy duty trailer for a 14ft. What could you possibly put on there that would max it?
Make sure you show us once you're completely finished!!! Very Nice!
Congrats on the first project you are showing us in the new building!!!!
Enjoyed this video! Thanks!!👍🏻
As a hind sight kind of situation, i would've mounted the rails a few inches farther forward. That was they aren't sitting ontop of those cap plates creating a gap underneath the end. And then the self drilling screws would've only had to go through the box tubing. Probably not an issue the way you did it more so just a preference.
Thought about that, the problem would have been the cables rubbing against the rail and damage them. It needs to sit right on the back edge.
@@BigTruckBigRV ah yea that makes sense
Great product and nice job on installation.
Nice project !! Looks just fine and more importantly, it works !!!
Maybe some type of HD C clamp would have worked towards the back by the gate