Got Evoque one year ago - still amazing and more to say awesome . But made AOS 5 v2 myself and it’s indeed best frame money can buy . Almost . Never enough . Still polishing PIDs . Installed 2020kv motors . Can sbang, can juice . Can anything . And skystars stack . Failsafed and forgot to disarm . Quad was laying in the grass and full Of grass with stalled motors literally I was smelling ozone and damn hot motors … flies after like nothing happened..
I built one last month. Yes, mind blowing. So... I built another. T- motor stack and motor set up. Crazy smooth. Sounds great too. Arms aren't as strong as an Apex! But it's lite, strong, smooth and easy to maintain. Brain 3d has a nice choices in prints for all the aos frames too. I have two apex and two aos v2. Happiness till my next bad crash...
No anlago version sadly. I got the evoque as a bnf because I-flight as a manufacturer gets better prices for parts so it is cheaper than building. But If I build an analog system on the AOS5 frame it is alot more expensive than the evoque
It’s so sad that everybody seems to be ignoring analog pilots. A lot of people that just got into the hobby or don’t have the money to go crazy with all DJI stuff tend to go with analog and therefore be left behind when it comes to new things like this.
It’s not all about if you got the money to go digital I have and could easy go digital but I love a analog and will fly a analog until digital has the same latency. Yeah the pictures loverly but my brain feels the latency horrendously makes digital feel al mushy and slow. I have tried it and hated it.
That is true for sure. For me, it's only the price, so I mentioned it as the main reason that holds people back from going digital. Bind'n'fly's are cheaper than building yourself. So if a intermediate pilot with not much money like me wants a new quad, we gotta go with pre-builds. And if new quads are only available in digital, budget pilots can feel left behind quickly.
This frame is an excellent design. Too often the mechanical design of quads is ignored and we end up with floppy, weak frames. So happy to see it take a front seat for once!
Perfect timing JB! Thanks for the informative review. I've been researching the AOS5 and 3.5 for about a week now which ultimately lead me to stop following a certain youtuber on all socials for his snobby attitude. Always appreciate your honest, in depth and unbiased perspective.
i may not be the best pilot but i’ve been flying iflight frames for about 3 yrs due to costs and crashed plenty times, still flying those frames. i’ve heard people trash them but i’m happy w it! mine isnt bnf though
I have the evoque and just built an AOS 5.5 with 2208's snapped an arm off on we grass on the second flight. (unlucky strike? or carbon defect?) evoque still going strong, crashed many times with no issues. The Space inside the AOS is nice, but, with the evoque, all you electornics are shielded by the side plates, and still look like new 6 months later. Most quads end up with all sorts grass, mud, water, flung inside.
Just out of curiosity where did you get the frame? I'm seeing similar things from a few people which surprises me having crashed so much and never broke anything on my 5.5v2 (I broke lots of arms on many frames previously).
@@le_tranq thanks for the reply man. I got the frame from cnc drones. The carbon does not take damage, I’ve since replaced 2 arms, and now the camera plate has failed. It seems to easily split and splinter,Almost like wood. I’ve since decided to just buy a fresh Aos 5.5 frame, this time cut by iflight. Completely different, the carbon is far far superior, it looks and feels night and day. as is the hardware supplied. Had a few light crashes and no snapped arms or issues so far.
A small nitpick: the stuff they put on screws tips is actually nylon coating, not loctite. Loctite doesn't stay on screws ready to use like that, and those screws come with boxed motors, so they obviously can stay that way for quite some time.
Loctite Threadlocker series 248. Loctite is a brand, not a product. Yes, they do make threadlocker that adhere to steel screws and stay good for long periods of time after application.
@@MysteryD Nope, 248 has 24 hour cure time. It's not the same stuff they use to coat the bolts. 'ND Patch' is one of the names for the tech if you want to google it.. "During the ND Patch pre-applied process, fasteners are heated and sprayed with a custom nylon powder which adheres to the part." Beside, when you say 'loctite' it's understood to be a shorthand for a standard thread locker, not an exotic formulation that just happens to share the same brand name. They also sell glues and epoxies, but nobody in their right mind would refer to CA glue as 'loctite' :)
@Joshua Bardwell - Glad you gave a significant amount of time to one of Chris' frames. I've owned Apex's, Evoques and a few other randoms, but I can definitely push pid tune master multiplier way higher than any other quads (using damping grease and locktite to ensure limits can be pushed to the max). I would always have a second profile set though so if I have hard crash or do damage to props I can switch to fly back without issue (needed if you're living on the edge in your pids). I have to admit though, I secretly shake my head as you continue to perpetuate this '30mm ESC is more robust than 20mm' theme 😵💫. Honestly, in my experience the size of an esc is far less important than who actually manufactured it. You kind of admit as much without actually saying it, but still poo poo 20mm gear whenever you see a 20mm esc. I have comfortably had more 30mm stacks fail on super hard crashes than 20mm, though I am sure I haven't broken the volume you have. Like with anything in FPV, you get what you pay for. I have a bunch of blitz mini stacks and they are rock solid, only succumbing to water crashes due to stupidity.
Considering the quality is the same, which is what you should do when comparing two different sizes of something, the 30x30 ESC has more space to dissipate heat which in theory makes components live longer.
I think my point is clear enough that it implies I wouldn't compare a 20mm vs 30mm from the same manufacturer (theoretically the same quality) and say the 20mm is better. The point of my original comment is choice of specific fc/esc is much more important than whether it is 20mm or 30mm, so I don't get why he still perpetuates (or _seems_ like he perpetuates) this '30mm is always better than 20mm' ideology.
@@Schradermusic nah, if you watch his videos, he hates on reliability of 20mm more than anything with a usually vague 'I just don't trust them' vibe, openly admitting he doesn't do 20mm much. so again i say quality = most important.
I bought two of the aos frame and build it myself. It flies insanely great, way better than the nazgul5 v2 frame I had the electronics on before. I freaking love the aos frame for the difference it makes to my flying experience 🚀
Display, transmission and battery technology have been the shockingly slow part. Now the only thing left still lagging partially is batteries. You can always have better batteries.
Frame durability isn't so good as expected. I've unexpectedly broke an arm when my drone fell from 2nd floor. The thinnest part is near the motor and it's cracked. But the biggest problem is in replacement parts. It's impossible to buy new arm! I've have to ask local company who makes carbon parts and they did a new arm. Also I have another drone setup on Apex frame (clone). I don't afraid to crashed it from the moon, only once I broke an arm when crashed it on full speed to the wall. Anyway AOS5 frame is awesome, but please don't thing it's designed for bando.
I've got an AOS 5.5" v2 that flies AMAZINGLY. It is super stable and hauls a gopro like nothing is there. However in 4 out of the 5 crashes I've had with this frame, something broke. I've only been able to get in a couple dozen flights because I've had to order new parts. The top plate broke at the gopro mount after a 15' fall from a tree onto grass. Both camera plates and the thin spacer between arms have broken and several arms too. I think some very small changes to the frame would make it much more durable (like a supported gopro mount and an extra .5mm on the top plate). The AOS 5 frame is great to build and work with - it has tons of space and isn't complicated. It is a really good frame that I wish was just a bit tougher.
@@erickoshinsky9374 Weird we had completely different experiences. I ordered spare arms thinking I'd snap them having broken tons of arms on my previous quads and I'm still yet to break anything and I crash a ton.
I like how you were doing that step 1 of sbang in your test flight there. Yeah I noticed 😁 And agree sucks no analog version. But hey there loss if they think there is more digital than analog. I'm getting ready to do a build using a TBS source one v5 frame. I'm hoping that will be good one.
They should have a hollow stand off or “bushing “ through the tpu for the motor screws .This would allow to tighten them, or give a set of short screws if you want to take them off.
That’s just a crap design arm guard, there is a snap in set on thingyverse that doesn’t use screws to hold them on. They actually protect the tips too lol unlike these.
Awesome review JB. I love this frame. Those motors are the black evoque motors which are 1750 kV I believe, not 1855 kV as you noted. I have the same motors in my AOS5 V2 1855 kV are the blue Xing2 motors Also, added some Rosser lube (nyogel) on all of the arm joints to make the quad fly even smoother.
So...My first drone build was the Skystars 4" long range...analog. Just finished it. Having troubles with the GPS part of it...But My son who is 12...is the one who does all the tuning...lmao. I dont understand all that...But he does somehow...lmao. So it has become dad builds them...Son tunes them. Without you Josh...we wouldn't ever have gotten off the ground...Trying to learn ELRS is a challenge but your videos have been great...
AOS5 owner here: the arm mounting screws could be 1~2mm longer. If they come loose and you tighten them, the standoffs, in which they screw into, strip easy, if not careful. The short screws only grip into a short part of the standoffs. Also the arms suffer delamination after a crash. You cant see it ! A novice wont notice and it will Start flying really bad. Hold the motors and Twist the arms to check of it feels loose. Its delamination. I hope iflight sells the arms soon. They are hard to get. Until today they are not sold on their website. Soon I'm gonna quit the aos frame if the arm availability sucks. After my apex build, I cant say the frame flight feel is any better. Just my opinion. Although I like the aos design and details.
As a few others have mentioned, the AOS V2 frame has a design flaw where the arm breaks at the thinnest part (where the braces meet). I've since retired my AOS V2 after breaking multiple arms. I've been flying the FPVCycle Prototype 5 frame and have had zero issues with durability.
I’m not sure if you noticed this or not but on some of the dives or throttle cuts there was a bit of a wobble, not sure if it was just a windy day or what but I noticed it. All things considered though it does fly very well out of the box. It makes me consider buying the frame and transferring all the parts from my current build.
@@sirmissalot8065 well that’s why I pointed it out, im curious what you would do as well. I’m shit at tuning so in my mind I would up the “i” gains but it could be something else
I don’t know why I think it’s over optimised to the point exaggerated. Resonance noise is bad but it doesn’t require super slowing filtering to develop it to this degree of a frame. Just an opinion
I am so new that I’m still looking into purchasing my first drone & I’ve never flown one before. Wow! I had no idea they move like this. I’m so used to seeing them move so slow for long distances. Now I’m really stuck in which type drone to get into. First I thought maybe the DJI mini pro 3, then i thought maybe the avata. Then when I saw a TH-camr giving a review on a much quieter drone than the avata & the same size…, I was led down a rabbit hole to these types with the open frames exposing all the parts.
Thank you for all your videos - i am new here and i am trying to catch up and watch as many of your videos as i can 😅 "and learning something" every day .. but do you have a video on how to deal with one of these AOS 5 drones that are BNF with O3 .. it would be awesome if there was a video from: out the box, to bind RC & goggles, to setup, to first flight (if you have one, i haven't found it yet but will keep checking). Also, something to *please* keep in mind. NOT everyone wants to fly like you do, i am not saying "can't", which is obviously true, i am saying "want to". I personally can't even stand watching that kind of flying even on my monitor and have to FFW past it. Glad you do those test though, of course, that's good for everyone. Just something to keep in mind when you run your reviews. Thank you for your seemingly endless content out there - we appreciate it 🤙
evoque v1 was my first quad, aling the way i got v2 frame and used it with O3 i loved both so much i rebuilt v1 with 30x30 electronics, removed almost 200g off it and ise it as analog full send setup definetly my top kwad. i loved v2 so much also i use it as outdoor cinematic rig with O3 for slowmo if i need any and gp11 mini on top i just ordered deadcat version to have clean feed for O3 yes i love these so much they fly so freaking amazin.. i even put INAV on v2 to test it before i use it on cinelifter i contacted you over email today for motor crackling...i know ... sorry... 😅 but yeay evoques are mad good was my first and even now when i have 9 quads evoques are by far my favorite
I’ve noticed on my quads with the power wire by the camera instead of by the antenna they get a slightly better signal and range. The antenna and power wire should be as far apart as possible IMO.
They should have put washers on those TPU, I see the point of going with that design, no need to make different protectors for different motor sizes. But that doesn't make sense on a BNF, since the motor is already chosen for you.
I still got a F4 fortini 32khz osd and I was using it on bf 3.2.2 and I had the gyro on 32 and pid loop set to 16 and CPU use was only 50% ish but now I updated to the new BF I got it set to 8on gyro and 4 on pid loop
@@creationlabsinc.189 Honestly I can deal with it, it's my favourite frame by far. That extra small triangle can really wedge a twig or branch in there if it goes in the right way. I also like to not use the stock fpv camera mount instead removing it totally and using TPU camera holders from the standoffs, I think it looks much nicer aesthetically like that and it also seems to protect the camera a little better more inside the frame.
As a fix for the motor TPU I'd suggest getting thing:5426396 from thingiverse (add that to the thingiverse URL after a /). They press fit around the arm and screws, not requiring you to screw into the TPU at all. They won't come lose cause they wrap around the screws and horns :)
Might have to finally give an iFlight bind and fly a try. I've had surprisingly good luck with the beast AIO. I have 1,300+ packs through it and going strong.
Flies great, BUT, with the old air unit camera the silicone mount still pass a lot of vibrations, I’m waiting for the rigid printed parts in the mail, and if you use that XT60 forward the battery cable hinders the GoPro angle, rear or side power cables placement ends up being very close to the props due to the compact frame design that has very little space around the frame.
I destroyed a tattu R-line battery pack due to too loosley mounted motors......on a 20x20 T motor F55 esc.......30.5x30.5 is dead......obsolete. Had the same reservations as you about fets and board size......I was wrong and moved on.......fyi the T motor 20x20 F55 fits the evoque frame....with a little filing....
You'd think someone would design a TPU arm guard with a separate single screw for installation. All my arm guards I design also encase the top of the guard for a secure fit, and now I also add a small extra protrusion that ends up as infill once 3d printed to give cushion to any impact.
I like this new frame. I basically fly only iflight frames, Nazgul5, evoque, cidora and chimera LR but I never had luck with their electronics unfortunately. I would like try the AOS5 with my stack of choice, HW 4in1 60a and FETTEC G4. Btw it doesn't look 16x16 mounting holes cause the vista is mounted in those holes in the back
Definitely the best BNF available at the moment. And yeah, in order to get prop wash handling as smooth as possible, that Master Multiplier needs to go up quite a bunch :) I just love how sharp and precise these things can fly. It's a nuance just like between various sports cars... but it's there. And that being said... amazing flying around your yard! It's just mind blowing how much progress you've been made over the years and how tightly you can fly your home spot. Awesome review!
more solid? on the top of the front triangle, the engines are far from the top of this triangle, and that's it! for me it's the weak point .. but for the resonance sure it's "better?". Thanks for the video ;) I have a 6 inch light with a 20*20 esc, and frankly it works! and it's been a while since I have it and the esc is still ok (t-motor)
arm protectors should have some other mechanism to stay on the arm, they are flexible and 3D printed, surely someone could come up with a stretchy latch kind of thing
also just a note. You are completely correct about bmi270. I admit I was skeptical, but i have switched back and forth from mu6000 to bmi270 on Iflight blitz mini FC's and I can tell no difference in flight.
another note about the blitz mini 55A esc. Im still using the original esc that came in my evoque in late Jan. I lost cap months ago, I beat it, and turtle constantly. I may have just gotten a "good one" But in my case, it has been practically invincible.
Hey JB can you please make an Video about the diatone Mamba f722 Mini MK4 and If you wloud recommend it to me for an 4 Inch built under 250gramms. PS i Love your Videos
Hello Joshua can you do video about Rekon35? How much better is from rekon3 and do comparison between them please Im sure many people are waiting for the reviews of this drone from you :p Regards
Hi Josh Great video and review of the AOS-5, WoW ! I like it, the only thing that we don't agree is that battery plug. I would have prefer that it would be in the back. I really like this frame and I checked to see if I could get it as a 7in and I can. I just don't care for the frame I have. Thanks again for the video and information about this quad.
We all know Chris Rosser and I'm pretty sure there was more thought put into the placement of that plug, than you would think. I'd bet money that the CG would be off if you put it in the back and the battery further to the middle.
@@creationlabsinc.189 If the Center of Mass is not set well, you load either the front or back motors more than the others, which is not good in the long run.
I just finished building a sub250 AOS3.5 v2. You have to sacrifice a lot to make it stay below 250 if you want to put a more or less ok'ish action cam on it. Even though aos 3.5 v2 seems to be one of the lightest frames, I still had to use smaller motors (1404 instead of recommended 1504), AIO ESC+FC board which is freaking expensive and way less durable and if you fry an ESC you have to throw away the whole thing. I also ended up using maximum 550mah 4s batteries to be able to put a Caddx Peanut on it. You can save a few extra grams by de-casing a vista or using an analog VTX which is another sacrifice. And lastly you can use a Thumb Pro as an action cam, but I'm not sure if it can survive in a crash. So what I'm saying is just that if there will be a BNF, most probably it will be in that category without taking an action cam into account or the durability is gonna be really questionable. And you will have to use the smallest battery on it.
With HDzero coming anytime and DJI that kind of gave up hobbyists, I really would want either to wait for an HDzero version or an analog (I'm fine with good analog). I'd buy either but the Vista... it's really the only part I don't want to invest in at the moment.
How has Dji given up? They still make the airunit and vistas with runcam taking caddix place. So please explain or are you just hatin on a product you don’t own?
Are you sure those motors are 1855kv? The evoque came with 1750kv xing2s and These look like the same motor, Chris himself also runs 1700kv motors. Also, I don’t think those arms are stronger, very thin and they will just snap where the triangle ends, put it up against the apex and see which arm breaks first.
I guess I'm not sure. The motor product page (annoyingly) only lists 4S or 6S but doesn't give the actual kv. I assumed they were the same as the regular 2207.
The PID tune depends on the environmental conditions. If the environmental conditions can change, then you have to dial back the PID tune some amount to reflect this. The more "perfectly" a quad is PID tuned, the more sensitive the PID tune is to any change in environmental conditions. When you sell a bind-n-fly quad, it will be flown anywhere from sea level to 10,000 feet above sea level depending on what city the pilot lives in. That alone reduces the ability to deliver a "perfect" PID tune. A PID tune that was perfect at 10,000 feet would be over-tuned at sea level, and vice versa. In addition, you can't be certain that the pilot will keep using the exact same props that you ship with. These are the main reasons why a bind-n-fly is never delivered with a "99% perfect" PID tune.
@@JoshuaBardwell Hmmm, I wouldn’t think altitude would have much, if any effect on a PID tune. Motor power, ramp-up, top speed, ESC braking and prop thrust & weight are what a PID controller is acting on in a multi-rotor as I understand them. Quads are typically flown through a range of altitudes, air densities and pressures no matter where you are. It’s the power train that has to follow the set-point. Would be nice to get some additional feedback on this.
Air density significantly affects the amount of thrust the props make. When a motor makes less thrust, the quad accelerates more slowly. Therefore, higher P gains are needed to track setpoint correctly. Everything else follows from that. Some pilots compensate for this by changing to higher pitch props at higher altitudes, such as Steele's S5 vs. S3 props. Bottom line: if you cannot control for air density/altitude, and you cannot force the pilot to always use the same props, then the PID tune must be de-tuned at least a little bit to compensate for this.
@@JoshuaBardwell OK, your explanation differs from my understanding. Example; the cruise control in your vehicle employs a PID controller. If ascending a steep hill, you will not reach set-point as quickly as you would if on level ground, unless you increase engine power, alter gearing and/or reduce drag - all mechanical (drivetrain) variables - but the cruise control's PID system isn't re-tuned if any of these variables are changed. Same applies to a thermostat operating throughout a range of temperature acting on the controlled space. With regard to multi-rotors, it's always been my assumption that we predominately tune around noise/vibration in the system. Again, this has been my understanding but always open to expanding on that. If your points are correct, which way would the P, I & D dials need to be turned as density decreases? I can't imagine that they would all increase in unison, i.e, bumping up a master multiplier. Thanks for your detailed replies JB 🙏🏽
"the frame is going to be durable and ..." vs "...and it’s not as durable as some other frames. This isn’t just an issue for concrete bando bashers; even more “normal” pilots..." . "...which is going to make it a lot easier to maintain..." vs "The frame is a bit fiddly to build and maintain... " . What's going on ? The same person, the same frame. 😮🤯 Maybe with a time, Joshua's opinion on the frame has been changed? Or maybe AOS 5 V1 is much stronger than AOS 5 O3. They seem pretty identical.
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Got Evoque one year ago - still amazing and more to say awesome . But made AOS 5 v2 myself and it’s indeed best frame money can buy . Almost . Never enough . Still polishing PIDs .
Installed 2020kv motors . Can sbang, can juice . Can anything . And skystars stack . Failsafed and forgot to disarm
. Quad was laying in the grass and full Of grass with stalled motors literally I was smelling ozone and damn hot motors … flies after like nothing happened..
I built one last month. Yes, mind blowing. So...
I built another. T- motor stack and motor set up. Crazy smooth. Sounds great too.
Arms aren't as strong as an Apex! But it's lite, strong, smooth and easy to maintain.
Brain 3d has a nice choices in prints for all the aos frames too. I have two apex and two aos v2. Happiness till my next bad crash...
No anlago version sadly. I got the evoque as a bnf because I-flight as a manufacturer gets better prices for parts so it is cheaper than building. But If I build an analog system on the AOS5 frame it is alot more expensive than the evoque
Same with the Bob57 😩
Agreed. Hopefully it'll be offered in analog at some point.
Couldn't you just add in your own vtx and camera to switch it to analog? I haven't looked into everything, and I'm still a noob, but yea😅
Buy the digital one..Try finding someone who wants a vista/walksnail vtx and sell it to them😭and put in analog instead...
Cheapest way I can think of😭
Buy the digital one..Try finding someone who wants a vista/walksnail vtx and sell it to them😭and put in analog instead...
Cheapest way I can think of😭
It’s so sad that everybody seems to be ignoring analog pilots. A lot of people that just got into the hobby or don’t have the money to go crazy with all DJI stuff tend to go with analog and therefore be left behind when it comes to new things like this.
I totally agree. It’s digital all over the place on most TH-cam channels. Seems like you are almost a looser when you still fly analog (like i do)
It’s not all about if you got the money to go digital I have and could easy go digital but I love a analog and will fly a analog until digital has the same latency. Yeah the pictures loverly but my brain feels the latency horrendously makes digital feel al mushy and slow. I have tried it and hated it.
That is true for sure. For me, it's only the price, so I mentioned it as the main reason that holds people back from going digital. Bind'n'fly's are cheaper than building yourself. So if a intermediate pilot with not much money like me wants a new quad, we gotta go with pre-builds. And if new quads are only available in digital, budget pilots can feel left behind quickly.
@@109haggy can't you just buy the digital version sell the digital parts of it and put some analog stuff in? or is it too expensive still?
@@sirmissalot8065 it’s simply too expensive :-/
This frame is an excellent design. Too often the mechanical design of quads is ignored and we end up with floppy, weak frames. So happy to see it take a front seat for once!
Perfect timing JB! Thanks for the informative review. I've been researching the AOS5 and 3.5 for about a week now which ultimately lead me to stop following a certain youtuber on all socials for his snobby attitude. Always appreciate your honest, in depth and unbiased perspective.
who.,.. who... :D
@@rolisaenz probably Steele
@@creationlabsinc.189 LOL!!!
i may not be the best pilot but i’ve been flying iflight frames for about 3 yrs due to costs and crashed plenty times, still flying those frames. i’ve heard people trash them but i’m happy w it! mine isnt bnf though
You should have put the iflight's whip antenna on the AOS just to troll Rosser.
😂😅👍
Hahahaha
LOL
I have the evoque and just built an AOS 5.5 with 2208's snapped an arm off on we grass on the second flight. (unlucky strike? or carbon defect?) evoque still going strong, crashed many times with no issues.
The Space inside the AOS is nice, but, with the evoque, all you electornics are shielded by the side plates, and still look like new 6 months later. Most quads end up with all sorts grass, mud, water, flung inside.
Just out of curiosity where did you get the frame? I'm seeing similar things from a few people which surprises me having crashed so much and never broke anything on my 5.5v2 (I broke lots of arms on many frames previously).
@@le_tranq thanks for the reply man.
I got the frame from cnc drones. The carbon does not take damage, I’ve since replaced 2 arms, and now the camera plate has failed. It seems to easily split and splinter,Almost like wood.
I’ve since decided to just buy a fresh Aos 5.5 frame, this time cut by iflight. Completely different, the carbon is far far superior, it looks and feels night and day. as is the hardware supplied. Had a few light crashes and no snapped arms or issues so far.
I love my aos with ethix stouts on them. Butter smooth flight. It runs really well with bluejay if super clean.
bluejay makes all the things smooth
A small nitpick: the stuff they put on screws tips is actually nylon coating, not loctite. Loctite doesn't stay on screws ready to use like that, and those screws come with boxed motors, so they obviously can stay that way for quite some time.
Loctite Threadlocker series 248. Loctite is a brand, not a product. Yes, they do make threadlocker that adhere to steel screws and stay good for long periods of time after application.
@@MysteryD Nope, 248 has 24 hour cure time. It's not the same stuff they use to coat the bolts. 'ND Patch' is one of the names for the tech if you want to google it.. "During the ND Patch pre-applied process, fasteners are heated and sprayed with a custom nylon powder which adheres to the part."
Beside, when you say 'loctite' it's understood to be a shorthand for a standard thread locker, not an exotic formulation that just happens to share the same brand name. They also sell glues and epoxies, but nobody in their right mind would refer to CA glue as 'loctite' :)
@@jiatan_fpv dude chill. Literally nobody cares about your argument
@Joshua Bardwell - Glad you gave a significant amount of time to one of Chris' frames.
I've owned Apex's, Evoques and a few other randoms, but I can definitely push pid tune master multiplier way higher than any other quads (using damping grease and locktite to ensure limits can be pushed to the max). I would always have a second profile set though so if I have hard crash or do damage to props I can switch to fly back without issue (needed if you're living on the edge in your pids).
I have to admit though, I secretly shake my head as you continue to perpetuate this '30mm ESC is more robust than 20mm' theme 😵💫. Honestly, in my experience the size of an esc is far less important than who actually manufactured it. You kind of admit as much without actually saying it, but still poo poo 20mm gear whenever you see a 20mm esc. I have comfortably had more 30mm stacks fail on super hard crashes than 20mm, though I am sure I haven't broken the volume you have. Like with anything in FPV, you get what you pay for. I have a bunch of blitz mini stacks and they are rock solid, only succumbing to water crashes due to stupidity.
Considering the quality is the same, which is what you should do when comparing two different sizes of something, the 30x30 ESC has more space to dissipate heat which in theory makes components live longer.
I think my point is clear enough that it implies I wouldn't compare a 20mm vs 30mm from the same manufacturer (theoretically the same quality) and say the 20mm is better.
The point of my original comment is choice of specific fc/esc is much more important than whether it is 20mm or 30mm, so I don't get why he still perpetuates (or _seems_ like he perpetuates) this '30mm is always better than 20mm' ideology.
@@fpvdotkiwi He caters to beginners a lot and a 30x30 is easier to solder, so that might be why? I don't know.
@@Schradermusic nah, if you watch his videos, he hates on reliability of 20mm more than anything with a usually vague 'I just don't trust them' vibe, openly admitting he doesn't do 20mm much. so again i say quality = most important.
I bought two of the aos frame and build it myself. It flies insanely great, way better than the nazgul5 v2 frame I had the electronics on before. I freaking love the aos frame for the difference it makes to my flying experience 🚀
did you just swap the frame? thinking about doing the same if you can really feel the difference :D
@@timorohde95 I can! But the second build I added new motors and that was mindblowing 😬
where did you get the 3d prints for the frame and what motors do you sugest for thjis frame?
@@stefffpv I can't send my answer.. find "typr" on thingiverse
for some reason i cant post the direct link...
The law of diminishing returns I guess, the hobby has come so far in the last few years that we're searching for that last 10% now
Display, transmission and battery technology have been the shockingly slow part. Now the only thing left still lagging partially is batteries. You can always have better batteries.
So many dope quads, not enough money 😵💫
Frame durability isn't so good as expected. I've unexpectedly broke an arm when my drone fell from 2nd floor. The thinnest part is near the motor and it's cracked. But the biggest problem is in replacement parts. It's impossible to buy new arm! I've have to ask local company who makes carbon parts and they did a new arm. Also I have another drone setup on Apex frame (clone). I don't afraid to crashed it from the moon, only once I broke an arm when crashed it on full speed to the wall.
Anyway AOS5 frame is awesome, but please don't thing it's designed for bando.
I've got an AOS 5.5" v2 that flies AMAZINGLY. It is super stable and hauls a gopro like nothing is there. However in 4 out of the 5 crashes I've had with this frame, something broke. I've only been able to get in a couple dozen flights because I've had to order new parts. The top plate broke at the gopro mount after a 15' fall from a tree onto grass. Both camera plates and the thin spacer between arms have broken and several arms too. I think some very small changes to the frame would make it much more durable (like a supported gopro mount and an extra .5mm on the top plate). The AOS 5 frame is great to build and work with - it has tons of space and isn't complicated. It is a really good frame that I wish was just a bit tougher.
Saw 3 sizes of arms on getfpv today. Sold on cncdrone as well
Replacement arms are pretty cheap and easy as Kevin said.
@@erickoshinsky9374 Weird we had completely different experiences. I ordered spare arms thinking I'd snap them having broken tons of arms on my previous quads and I'm still yet to break anything and I crash a ton.
@@le_tranq it’s usually 1-2 out of 20 pilots experience bad results. Bad news always travels faster
I like how you were doing that step 1 of sbang in your test flight there. Yeah I noticed 😁 And agree sucks no analog version. But hey there loss if they think there is more digital than analog. I'm getting ready to do a build using a TBS source one v5 frame. I'm hoping that will be good one.
Love Chriss Rossers research and A0S5. But some people just love aesthetics over function. Evoque hands down just looks way cooler....sorry Chris!
They should have a hollow stand off or “bushing “ through the tpu for the motor screws .This would allow to tighten them, or give a set of short screws if you want to take them off.
That’s just a crap design arm guard, there is a snap in set on thingyverse that doesn’t use screws to hold them on. They actually protect the tips too lol unlike these.
@@carbonEYE007 Care to link to it? ;)
Awesome review JB.
I love this frame. Those motors are the black evoque motors which are 1750 kV I believe, not 1855 kV as you noted. I have the same motors in my AOS5 V2
1855 kV are the blue Xing2 motors
Also, added some Rosser lube (nyogel) on all of the arm joints to make the quad fly even smoother.
th-cam.com/video/FuP0UHH_VIM/w-d-xo.html
Let’s hope the escs hold up unlike the nazgul
They should have used the mini snap in arm protectors, file is on thingyverse. Also agrees on the xt60 location.
So...My first drone build was the Skystars 4" long range...analog. Just finished it. Having troubles with the GPS part of it...But My son who is 12...is the one who does all the tuning...lmao. I dont understand all that...But he does somehow...lmao. So it has become dad builds them...Son tunes them. Without you Josh...we wouldn't ever have gotten off the ground...Trying to learn ELRS is a challenge but your videos have been great...
Is this real?
Great review of Chris's AOS5 BNF. Iflight has some excellent products. Love their motors. Happy flying everyone. 😎
AOS5 owner here:
the arm mounting screws could be 1~2mm longer. If they come loose and you tighten them, the standoffs, in which they screw into, strip easy, if not careful. The short screws only grip into a short part of the standoffs.
Also the arms suffer delamination after a crash. You cant see it ! A novice wont notice and it will Start flying really bad. Hold the motors and Twist the arms to check of it feels loose. Its delamination.
I hope iflight sells the arms soon. They are hard to get. Until today they are not sold on their website. Soon I'm gonna quit the aos frame if the arm availability sucks.
After my apex build, I cant say the frame flight feel is any better. Just my opinion. Although I like the aos design and details.
All sizes were available on getfpv earlier today
@@ZippyFPV great. Unfortunatly hard to get in europe. My main critisism is that iflight doesnt sell it their store
As a few others have mentioned, the AOS V2 frame has a design flaw where the arm breaks at the thinnest part (where the braces meet). I've since retired my AOS V2 after breaking multiple arms. I've been flying the FPVCycle Prototype 5 frame and have had zero issues with durability.
The v1 frame was better
I rebuilt using an iflight cut Aos frame completely different. Before the weak frame was cnc drones, garbage carbon.
I run only armprotectors wich are sticking to the frame with tape or glue or whatever, never again with fixed with the motorscrews, so true
My Evoque ESC blew up the other day! Flames 🔥to be honest I was at full send full throttle for over one minute carrying a GoPro..
I’m not sure if you noticed this or not but on some of the dives or throttle cuts there was a bit of a wobble, not sure if it was just a windy day or what but I noticed it. All things considered though it does fly very well out of the box. It makes me consider buying the frame and transferring all the parts from my current build.
what would you do to reduce that wobble pid wise?
@@sirmissalot8065 well that’s why I pointed it out, im curious what you would do as well. I’m shit at tuning so in my mind I would up the “i” gains but it could be something else
@@sirmissalot8065 If the wobble occurs at 0% throttle, try increasing the idle RPM or using Dynamic Idle.
I saw you are doing ejects now JB!
I don’t know why I think it’s over optimised to the point exaggerated. Resonance noise is bad but it doesn’t require super slowing filtering to develop it to this degree of a frame. Just an opinion
Install washers to hold the arm protectors on more securely.
Wow! Flying has come a long way from toe 80's when I began my flying. It's not even the same anymore... hahaaaa!
Nice!
I am so new that I’m still looking into purchasing my first drone & I’ve never flown one before.
Wow! I had no idea they move like this. I’m so used to seeing them move so slow for long distances. Now I’m really stuck in which type drone to get into.
First I thought maybe the DJI mini pro 3, then i thought maybe the avata. Then when I saw a TH-camr giving a review on a much quieter drone than the avata & the same size…, I was led down a rabbit hole to these types with the open frames exposing all the parts.
Start with the emax kit and then progress to freestyle
Thank you for all your videos - i am new here and i am trying to catch up and watch as many of your videos as i can 😅 "and learning something" every day .. but do you have a video on how to deal with one of these AOS 5 drones that are BNF with O3 .. it would be awesome if there was a video from: out the box, to bind RC & goggles, to setup, to first flight (if you have one, i haven't found it yet but will keep checking). Also, something to *please* keep in mind. NOT everyone wants to fly like you do, i am not saying "can't", which is obviously true, i am saying "want to". I personally can't even stand watching that kind of flying even on my monitor and have to FFW past it. Glad you do those test though, of course, that's good for everyone. Just something to keep in mind when you run your reviews. Thank you for your seemingly endless content out there - we appreciate it 🤙
Fantastic flying and review, Joshua!!! 😃
Really amazing looking and flying quad!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Iflight makes quality…Chris Rosser makes science. This right here is some quality science 😅
evoque v1 was my first quad, aling the way i got v2 frame and used it with O3 i loved both so much i rebuilt v1 with 30x30 electronics, removed almost 200g off it and ise it as analog full send setup definetly my top kwad. i loved v2 so much also i use it as outdoor cinematic rig with O3 for slowmo if i need any and gp11 mini on top i just ordered deadcat version to have clean feed for O3 yes i love these so much they fly so freaking amazin.. i even put INAV on v2 to test it before i use it on cinelifter i contacted you over email today for motor crackling...i know ... sorry... 😅 but yeay evoques are mad good was my first and even now when i have 9 quads evoques are by far my favorite
I’ve noticed on my quads with the power wire by the camera instead of by the antenna they get a slightly better signal and range. The antenna and power wire should be as far apart as possible IMO.
That’s absolutely right and well documented mate 👍
Well done to you for figuring it out on your own though 🤝😎🤘
They should have put washers on those TPU, I see the point of going with that design, no need to make different protectors for different motor sizes. But that doesn't make sense on a BNF, since the motor is already chosen for you.
I still got a F4 fortini 32khz osd and I was using it on bf 3.2.2 and I had the gyro on 32 and pid loop set to 16 and CPU use was only 50% ish but now I updated to the new BF I got it set to 8on gyro and 4 on pid loop
I never got caught in so many trees until I got a AOS5.5, that is a true assumption. The AOS5.5 does fly better than my previous frames though.
Agree. It’s got a few more “catch” areas for branches. Love the way it flys but not my goto for tree canopy flying
@@creationlabsinc.189 Honestly I can deal with it, it's my favourite frame by far. That extra small triangle can really wedge a twig or branch in there if it goes in the right way.
I also like to not use the stock fpv camera mount instead removing it totally and using TPU camera holders from the standoffs, I think it looks much nicer aesthetically like that and it also seems to protect the camera a little better more inside the frame.
As a fix for the motor TPU I'd suggest getting thing:5426396 from thingiverse (add that to the thingiverse URL after a /). They press fit around the arm and screws, not requiring you to screw into the TPU at all. They won't come lose cause they wrap around the screws and horns :)
thanks! any better GoPro mount? For Bones here
@@tomaszboril I don't know. I don't use a GoPro, sorry
Might have to finally give an iFlight bind and fly a try. I've had surprisingly good luck with the beast AIO. I have 1,300+ packs through it and going strong.
Flies great, BUT, with the old air unit camera the silicone mount still pass a lot of vibrations, I’m waiting for the rigid printed parts in the mail, and if you use that XT60 forward the battery cable hinders the GoPro angle, rear or side power cables placement ends up being very close to the props due to the compact frame design that has very little space around the frame.
Double sided Nano/Gecko tape is a perfect replacement for TPU scuffs.. Very durable too.
Nice honest review. Hard to know from just watching flight footage, but it didn’t look in any way exceptional.
Yeah my ESC on my Nazgul Evoque died. Lost my brand new O3 evoque and gopro hero 10 in the ocean.
Nice! Definitely looking at this frame for my next quad!
The other one R2 might be an inverted one for SBUS receivers.
I love my AOS frame. The frame is a tank. The feel is awesome. Props are fully out of view. And it has the best options for mounting HDZero.
I destroyed a tattu R-line battery pack due to too loosley mounted motors......on a 20x20 T motor F55 esc.......30.5x30.5 is dead......obsolete. Had the same reservations as you about fets and board size......I was wrong and moved on.......fyi the T motor 20x20 F55 fits the evoque frame....with a little filing....
You'd think someone would design a TPU arm guard with a separate single screw for installation. All my arm guards I design also encase the top of the guard for a secure fit, and now I also add a small extra protrusion that ends up as infill once 3d printed to give cushion to any impact.
I like this new frame. I basically fly only iflight frames, Nazgul5, evoque, cidora and chimera LR but I never had luck with their electronics unfortunately.
I would like try the AOS5 with my stack of choice, HW 4in1 60a and FETTEC G4.
Btw it doesn't look 16x16 mounting holes cause the vista is mounted in those holes in the back
You can get the frame from CNC madness. If you check Chris' site you can find all the details.
That frame is my next 5 inch build.
I love the design of the AOS5!
Thanks for the review Sir: As always awesome flying
Great video & review. I love all your detailed info & honesty.
Definitely the best BNF available at the moment. And yeah, in order to get prop wash handling as smooth as possible, that Master Multiplier needs to go up quite a bunch :) I just love how sharp and precise these things can fly. It's a nuance just like between various sports cars... but it's there.
And that being said... amazing flying around your yard! It's just mind blowing how much progress you've been made over the years and how tightly you can fly your home spot. Awesome review!
EXCELLENT fair review. Nice job..
Mikey
you should review the new iFlight Nazgul Evoque V2, they made a new frame with new electronics and the O3 air unit
23:35 - Yeah. 🙂Really exciting.
You’re the David Attenborough of FPV. I shall start calling you Sir Joshua Bardwell
more solid? on the top of the front triangle, the engines are far from the top of this triangle, and that's it! for me it's the weak point .. but for the resonance sure it's "better?". Thanks for the video ;) I have a 6 inch light with a 20*20 esc, and frankly it works! and it's been a while since I have it and the esc is still ok (t-motor)
I released STL's on thingiverse for better skidz for this frame #OpenSource (PS, thank you @ChrisRosser for sharing source to allow it to happen 🙌)
Thank you for your work!
you can always just use little washers to keep the screws from pulling through the tpu on the motors
I run a 20*20mms 4in1 esc on a chimera 7 1300kv 6s without any problems. Mamba I think. I was concerned too, but it seems to work.
I'm getting really interested in his LR5 Long Range version as well!
arm protectors should have some other mechanism to stay on the arm, they are flexible and 3D printed, surely someone could come up with a stretchy latch kind of thing
Love your Tshirt 👕😂
they manteined the same plug layout for both F7 and F4 FC use. in F4 case the second R2 just will be addressed as SBUS in
^_^
Daaaaang that's it. Clever. Thank you.
@@JoshuaBardwell you have no idea how many times you saved my day, Thank you Joshua!
thank you for this video. I had been thinking of switching frames. this answered so many of my questions.
also just a note. You are completely correct about bmi270. I admit I was skeptical, but i have switched back and forth from mu6000 to bmi270 on Iflight blitz mini FC's and I can tell no difference in flight.
another note about the blitz mini 55A esc. Im still using the original esc that came in my evoque in late Jan. I lost cap months ago, I beat it, and turtle constantly. I may have just gotten a "good one" But in my case, it has been practically invincible.
and yea, I've learnt something today!
Best 5”? no way by a long shot
Agreed. Didn’t look exceptional at all.
Best for what? That's not a bando basher 🤷♂️
I can't wait to fly mine..
No props in view?
On my nazgul the cap was surface mount aswell and it came off really easily
I need that t-shirt!
Hey JB can you please make an Video about the diatone Mamba f722 Mini MK4 and If you wloud recommend it to me for an 4 Inch built under 250gramms.
PS i Love your Videos
Hello Joshua can you do video about Rekon35? How much better is from rekon3 and do comparison between them please
Im sure many people are waiting for the reviews of this drone from you :p
Regards
Hi Josh Great video and review of the AOS-5, WoW ! I like it, the only thing that we don't agree is that battery plug. I would have prefer that it would be in the back. I really like this frame and I checked to see if I could get it as a 7in and I can. I just don't care for the frame I have. Thanks again for the video and information about this quad.
We all know Chris Rosser and I'm pretty sure there was more thought put into the placement of that plug, than you would think.
I'd bet money that the CG would be off if you put it in the back and the battery further to the middle.
@@Schradermusic fc’s take care of balance issues on 5” quads. Fixed wings however proper balance is necessary
@@creationlabsinc.189 If the Center of Mass is not set well, you load either the front or back motors more than the others, which is not good in the long run.
Do IFlight sell a power only kit for me to add my own DJI vtx and camera🙋🏽♂️❓
I think 5 inch is overkill for those who don't fly around with big and heavy GoPros attached. I hope they consider selling 3 or 3.5 inch RTF versions.
Nah , 5 inch feels different ( and I fly quads from 2 to 10 inches )
Nope!!! 5” is the sweet spot for epic freestyle
I Have the vex TBS UNIFY EVO and the cam is runcam
Put a washer on them skids. Lol.
We need a 4S version - the HDZero is limited to 4S with their 1W VTX. Tell them to produce a 4S version.
I’m waiting for a sub 250 AOS BNF. And maybe HDZero
I just finished building a sub250 AOS3.5 v2. You have to sacrifice a lot to make it stay below 250 if you want to put a more or less ok'ish action cam on it. Even though aos 3.5 v2 seems to be one of the lightest frames, I still had to use smaller motors (1404 instead of recommended 1504), AIO ESC+FC board which is freaking expensive and way less durable and if you fry an ESC you have to throw away the whole thing. I also ended up using maximum 550mah 4s batteries to be able to put a Caddx Peanut on it. You can save a few extra grams by de-casing a vista or using an analog VTX which is another sacrifice. And lastly you can use a Thumb Pro as an action cam, but I'm not sure if it can survive in a crash.
So what I'm saying is just that if there will be a BNF, most probably it will be in that category without taking an action cam into account or the durability is gonna be really questionable. And you will have to use the smallest battery on it.
I hope he makes a BNF version of his AOS 3.5 sub 250g quad.
Just buy babyhawk hd. Basically same flight characteristics.
Sick BnF!
Loving the content man! Just getting into the hobby myself. What part of TN are you in? We may be neighbors
TN is a big place… your probably not
With HDzero coming anytime and DJI that kind of gave up hobbyists, I really would want either to wait for an HDzero version or an analog (I'm fine with good analog). I'd buy either but the Vista... it's really the only part I don't want to invest in at the moment.
How has Dji given up? They still make the airunit and vistas with runcam taking caddix place. So please explain or are you just hatin on a product you don’t own?
Hdzero if that’s what your waiting on is only a bit better than analog. I know… I own all 3 digital systems and hdzero literally sits on my workbench
If it didn't have iflight junk in it might b worth it but iflight is trash as far as components
This
compaining about the 3200hz gyro rate is absurd because the dynamic lowpass already filters away most of that.
When you talk about five 5” inch 6” 7” 9” inch quads your talking about the size of the propellers right ? Not the size of the frame or esc
Are you sure those motors are 1855kv? The evoque came with 1750kv xing2s and These look like the same motor, Chris himself also runs 1700kv motors. Also, I don’t think those arms are stronger, very thin and they will just snap where the triangle ends, put it up against the apex and see which arm breaks first.
I guess I'm not sure. The motor product page (annoyingly) only lists 4S or 6S but doesn't give the actual kv. I assumed they were the same as the regular 2207.
No one said it’s more durable. It’s about performance and resonance handling.
FYI Josh, they 404'd your affiliate link.....Nice review though 👍
Is the Nebula Pro Camera still available? I can't seem to find the full size Nebula Pro..
hey Joshua, your affiliate link is not working, maybe replace it with the new O3 version, cheers!
Why can’t it be PID tuned to the nth degree?
Wouldn’t one of the best Aero-thermal engineers in FPV want to ensure that was the case??
The PID tune depends on the environmental conditions. If the environmental conditions can change, then you have to dial back the PID tune some amount to reflect this. The more "perfectly" a quad is PID tuned, the more sensitive the PID tune is to any change in environmental conditions. When you sell a bind-n-fly quad, it will be flown anywhere from sea level to 10,000 feet above sea level depending on what city the pilot lives in. That alone reduces the ability to deliver a "perfect" PID tune. A PID tune that was perfect at 10,000 feet would be over-tuned at sea level, and vice versa. In addition, you can't be certain that the pilot will keep using the exact same props that you ship with. These are the main reasons why a bind-n-fly is never delivered with a "99% perfect" PID tune.
@@JoshuaBardwell Hmmm, I wouldn’t think altitude would have much, if any effect on a PID tune. Motor power, ramp-up, top speed, ESC braking and prop thrust & weight are what a PID controller is acting on in a multi-rotor as I understand them. Quads are typically flown through a range of altitudes, air densities and pressures no matter where you are. It’s the power train that has to follow the set-point. Would be nice to get some additional feedback on this.
Air density significantly affects the amount of thrust the props make. When a motor makes less thrust, the quad accelerates more slowly. Therefore, higher P gains are needed to track setpoint correctly. Everything else follows from that. Some pilots compensate for this by changing to higher pitch props at higher altitudes, such as Steele's S5 vs. S3 props. Bottom line: if you cannot control for air density/altitude, and you cannot force the pilot to always use the same props, then the PID tune must be de-tuned at least a little bit to compensate for this.
@@JoshuaBardwell OK, your explanation differs from my understanding. Example; the cruise control in your vehicle employs a PID controller. If ascending a steep hill, you will not reach set-point as quickly as you would if on level ground, unless you increase engine power, alter gearing and/or reduce drag - all mechanical (drivetrain) variables - but the cruise control's PID system isn't re-tuned if any of these variables are changed. Same applies to a thermostat operating throughout a range of temperature acting on the controlled space. With regard to multi-rotors, it's always been my assumption that we predominately tune around noise/vibration in the system. Again, this has been my understanding but always open to expanding on that. If your points are correct, which way would the P, I & D dials need to be turned as density decreases? I can't imagine that they would all increase in unison, i.e, bumping up a master multiplier. Thanks for your detailed replies JB 🙏🏽
"the frame is going to be durable and ..." vs "...and it’s not as durable as some other frames. This isn’t just an issue for concrete bando bashers; even more “normal” pilots..." .
"...which is going to make it a lot easier to maintain..." vs "The frame is a bit fiddly to build and maintain... " . What's going on ? The same person, the same frame. 😮🤯
Maybe with a time, Joshua's opinion on the frame has been changed? Or maybe AOS 5 V1 is much stronger than AOS 5 O3. They seem pretty identical.
What would be better bnf this or mark 5