Honda CBR 954RR Complete Valve Clearance Check guide Ep4
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2024
- This is the Ultimate Valve Clearance Check Guide, it is done on a 2002 Honda CBR 954RR but applies to most bikes out there, the fundamentals are always the same.
I hope you guys enjoy and thanks for watching.
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IN THIS VIDEO:
Maintenance Manual: amzn.to/38fIXY9
Assembly Lube 4 Oz.: amzn.to/3l6ebDL
Hot Cams Shims: amzn.to/39jz3F2
Torque wrench: amzn.to/38ob8Uv
Filler Gauge: amzn.to/3su4cMs
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Chapters
00:00 Start
05:07 Measuring the gap
14:16 Ending
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I'M NOT A MOTORCYCLE MECHANIC NOR AN ADVENTURE RIDING INSTRUCTOR, TAKE EVERYTHING I SAY WITH A GRAIN OF SALT, I'M JUST AN ENTHUSIAST SO DOUBLE CHECK YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL FOR THE CORRECT PROCEDURES AND SPECIFICATIONS.
EMULATE AT YOUR OWN RISK. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Danger Danger!! Step Missing !! After the Cam-Cradle goes on and Before you spin the engine over: Release The Cam Tensioner Spring... Ask me how I know: Jumped timing which means pulling the cradle and re-timing the engine.
Very informative, thnx for sharing
Brilliant
Excellent video!
Thank you 👍
Thank you for ur videos
No problem Wayne 😀👍
The chain that the tensioner takes up is below the sprockets and if it's timed either way, if the tension is on the chain, it wouldn't be pulling on the cam or flexing the cam because a it's seated and it's not rotating the chains on a sprocket. it's not like the chains pulling or rotating the sprocket via the chain tensioner it's just taking up the slack behind the plastic guard
one of the cam cap bolts snapped when i did this but came out of the head in one piece. It broke in half in my hand. Bike runs great with some new bolts!
Nice, thankfully it came up in one piece, I can’t even imagine the giant pain it would have been otherwise. 😀👍
Thanks for making a video about the shimming process!! The check never bugged me but the moving the cams piece for the adjustment was a bit of a mystery. Motivation today to finish the old R1.
Nice Jim, good luck with your R1 👍
I found this video very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make your content.
Thank you John 👍
I agree. Super helpful and thank you for the video man. I was scared at first to even touch my engine but watching your videos man made me just a tad more confident in doing it myself and saving $700
I'm glad, that is exactly what I'm looking for when I publish a video, you guys doing it yourself and saving money 😀👍
Hello, does this procedure apply to the 1997 CBR 600 F3? thank you very much friend, very well explained
The concept is the same but the tolerances change engine to engine. If you find a maintenance manual, between that and my video you should be able to get it done 👍
I really hope you see this! Do you loosen the cam chain tensioner before you check the clearances and rotate the engine? Is it ok to turn the motor with the chain loose?
Hi, no, keep the chain tensioned when you check the clearances. It's OK to turn the motor whith the chain loose only if you do it slowly and pay attention not to skip cam sprocket theeth . 👍
Amazing video, you should be a high school teacher :)
Thank you 😀👍
Why do you have to loose the cam chain to measure ? I do understand that it is necessary to take the cams out. But what happens if you do not loose the chain tensioner to check the valve gap??
Hi, in theory it shouldn't matter, I did it that way because the maintenance manual said so, but the Manual also assumes you are going to remove the cams. Or maybe if the chain is tensioned my affect the measurements because it applies downward force on the cams, we are talking about fractions of a millimeter after all
Hey, can you change the cam chain while the engine is in the bike?
It's a tight fit, but with some wires and patience should be possible
How come you have to loosen the chain tensioner when checking the clearances the cam covers are down as far as I'll go. The cams aren't gonna flex. I don't see why tension on the cam chain on the sprockets would have anything to do with the lobes when they're all seated.
If you are only checking the clearance, you are right , there is no need to loosen the chain. The Honda manual assumes some adjustments will be made, therefore requiring to loosen the chain. In my case, I just don't want to forget about it 😅
@@AlbesADV oooooo ok that makes sense. I was wondering if it was just like a prerequisite to adjusting like a step one make sure you undo this so you don't bend anything
No, just don’t start taking off the cam holder’s bolts before loosening the chain tensioner 👍
Also which way do you rotate the crank is there a direction
Clockwise
@@AlbesADV thank you!
Where can i find a feeler gauge that covers these precise numbers? Most just jump on 0.05mm increments..
I use the Tusk filler gauge that I bought on Amazon
That is specific for motorcycles
So I have the same bike.. mine is a 03 954rr and I’ve never done this before.. did you end up having to mess with the timing at all?
I did, the exhaust sprocket was 1 tooth off from being aligned
decent video and passion to legendary model! Have one of those as well, but one issue is driving me mad -> jerky on revs up to 3000. Changed spark plugs + ignition coils, cleaned tank, filters but still same... nobody knows what`s the problem, pity :/
Well only 2 more things left to check the injectors or the vacuum tubeing of the throttle body, maybe the fuel injectors don't have a nice even spray that's why is Jerry to 3000rpm or there is a leak on one of the vacuum tubes messing up the fuel/air mixture. Good luck 😀👍
@@AlbesADV appreciate for a reply and hints! took out carb, cleaned it, did same with injectors (applied 10v and used spray can), mist looks good to me. Rechecked - replaced vacuum tubes, put everything together and to my disappointment no change :/ Works not too bad when cold, but total rubbish when warms up... With a water trick to exhaust pipe figured out that cylinder 4 is the problematic one as colder then others. Any more hints bud?? i searched whole internet, there are tons of people having similar issue with that model, but no one knows what`s wrong :/
If cylinder 4 is colder and and you have a trickle of water coming from the exhaust, maybe, when the coolant gets to temperature and pressure increases, the coolant is somehow sipping into cylinder 4, that would explain the jerkiness below 3000 rpm since, maybe, above 3000 there is enough flow to negate the effects of the small amount of coolant in the cylinder, man i wish I could take a look, good luck 👍
@@AlbesADV No water comes out from the main exhaust whatsoever, spark plug is darker (soot situation) but dry. Could a cracked valve give such a fault?
@@AlbesADV sorry for all those questions...
I’m confused… you only lined up T mark and the EX mark checked intake valves 1 & 3 then rotate ignition pulse line upward to check exhaust 2 & 4. Then turn the crankcase back to align the T mark where it would be initially back check cylinder 1 & 3 intake but without moving the cam chain still on exhaust side then move the index mark vertical to check 1 & 3 exhaust valves. Is IN and EX supposed to be lined up for intake and exhaust whichever you are checking?
You never line up the IN side on the cam gear for anything?
Hi, the IN mark is on the intake side gear, it's not visible on the camera because it's behind the frame and I has to use a little mirror like those dentist mirrors. Is you are just checking the valve clearance when you align the EX mark on the forward cam the IN mark of the rear cam should be aligned as well, if you are doing a full rebuild from scratch then you have to align them individually when you install the distribution chain
You didn’t tell us which way to turn the tool for the CCT, and now my chain is too tight to put my cams back in and I can’t get the damn CCT off. What do I do
The tool for the CCT only turns one way, if you can't use the CCT tool the only other way is to remove the whole CCT from the engine, are the bolts stripped? Why can't you get it off?
@@AlbesADV no room for a socket- and mine turns both ways 💀💀
@RoninOC that sucks, any chance you can fabricate a tool to get in there, bend and/or file a wrench?
@@AlbesADV I made a tool, it wirks
That's great 👍 it's so tight in there
I think when i do my 929, I'm just gonna drop the engine out. It's way too tight in that frame. I wear XXXL gloves😐
Probably a good idea 😆👍
Can you really get the valve lifters out of cylinder 4 without removing the camshafts?
Yes, just work it to the side 😀👍
@@AlbesADV Hi. When do you remove the chain locking tool? After the bearing caps have been screwed on or after I've cranked the engine a few times?
@bravenewworld999 after the bearing caps have been screwed back on 👍
@@AlbesADV Hey buddy. Can you help me further? I changed spark plugs at sc50 and adjusted the valves. I did not remove the camshafts, they were always on the timing chain, had only put them to the side. Now my SC50 won't start. It sounds like the spark plugs ignite the gasoline but maybe in the wrong order? Or could the engine times have changed? Had looked at the time, IN and EX marking were correct. Do the ignition sinks have an order? You can't swap the plugs of spark plugs, the wiring harness lies the way you have to connect it. Do you have a suggestion for me on how to proceed now? I made a short video on my channel. In the background, the engine runs from the car, due to weak battery on the sc50. Thanks.
I have noticed the following. When you open the throttle valves you see the following: Cylinder 4, a valve always stays a little open. Cylinders 1 and 2, valves are closed but light air bubbles come through, so they are also leaking. I don't understand before that's coming. When I put in the shims and turned the engine 2-3 times by hand, I measured the valve clearance again. At the entrance it was 0.16 times 0.15. But if the valves suddenly do not close, then the valve clearance would have to go to zero or minus? 🧐
How many miles are on your bike?
39000
@@AlbesADV so its 62k kilos is quite alot! Mine is at 57k kilometers. Your videos motivate me to do it on my own!
Yes, those honda engines are bulletproof if well maintained, they'll run forever
I thought you supposed to buy a new bike when it was time to adjust valves...go figure. 😁
It's definitely cheaper to buy a new bike than to do a valve adjustment I you own a Ducati 🤣🤣
@@AlbesADV 🤣🤣🤣