I am currently working on 1995 Striper 2150 doin the almost exact thing you did. I started in the gas tank area and have worked my way to the bulkhead just at the steps goin into the cuddy!
What an awesome DIY series! I have a 1996 Trophy 2002 WA and am glad to have found your videos. One problem I have faced is sourcing older boat parts. I custom fabricated a plexiglass cuddy cabin hatch door for my boat, but it's not that great. I would love to find an OEM replacement, but have been looking for nearly 2 years with no luck. Any ideas on where to find older Trophy parts?
Hi Kyle, I have found that there is little to no chance of finding OEM parts, and I had the same issue. The acrylic hatch cover to the cabin door was cracked where the support springs are mounted, but luckily I had the original piece. So I found a fabricating shop that specializes in acrylic fabrication. The place builds aircraft and submarine windows etc. They copied the piece with tinted acrylic, bending the front lip exactly, routered the edges perfectly. They even drilled the holes for the locks exactly perfect, but they had the original to template. It cost me about $300 about 7 years ago. All I had to do was drill the tiny holes for the spring mounts. Since 2010, I have replaced every bolt, latch, hatch etc that I could. Every year, I improve the boat in some way, but I’ve never found any Trophy parts anywhere. The only thing that’s been impossible to find are two things that so far are so obsolete that there’s zero chance: The Rub Rail insert and the plastic strips on the windows that hides the mounting bolts. There is almost a zero chance of ever finding these new, so I’ve had to make due. I was able to flip the Rub Rail insert around to hide a few damaged spots and re-seal it. I’ve totally removed the Rub Rail insert and sealed it twice since 2010.
at 38 seconds, you can see the entire front in one frame. I am curious, is there any room to stow away stuff in the area that is the floor un front section. The triangular area you would lay on up front. This is the same space as the storage area. I would like to place a 11x15 hatch under the triangular cushion and just stash away a couple of items there even in a ziplac bag is fine. Is there room there ? I figured you would know this for sure. Thanks
Hi David. There is space under the triangular forward berth, and I considered doing just that, but I was afraid there was a stringer running down the centre spine, supporting the centre line of the bunk, so I decided not to risk cutting into it. A rectangular hatch would not work. I did purchase a little endoscope inspection camera, and used it to check the drainage between the step and the fuel tank, so all it would take is drilling a 3/4" hole and taking a peek. One day, when the pain of this project subsides, I may do just that. Having another storage option would be GREAT!
Instead of all that grinding and sanding where the carpet glue is, I was thinking about putting some bond over it then painting. What are your thoughts?
Hi James, the glue is so thick and hard to remove. In a future episode you’ll see where I applied gelcoat over some glue area, and it peeled off and created a bit of a nightmare. I would say, no. You have to get the glue off. I have a bunch of episodes in various stages of editing. There’s more to come.
I don’t know about bonding to the glue. I know for a fact that resin and gel coat did not adhere and it continues to be a problem until it was ground away. If you did it, I’m curious to hear how it went and what you used.
Dude, Y'all don't need to sand every square inch... unless you have OCD. Most of that could be cleaned with acetone, and good to go. I mean the transom, and runners, yeah, but the headliner?
What kind of paint did you use on the inside of your cabin? I just pulled the carpet out of my Trophy 2002 WA. Did the fiberglass now I'm ready to paint and not sure which paint to use (I bought a small amount of gelcoat, but am apprehensive with it)
If I had to use Paint … and I almost did .. and I lived in the States, I chose Alexseal. A 2-part marine paint. I’d make sure use the proper Alexseal primer.
I am about to undertake the same project on my 2002. I appreciate your video so much. Gave me the confidence to move forward with it. Mahalo.
Thanks, James. I wish you the best of luck! Thanks for your comment.
Thank you sir! I have a 1992 trophy 2002. It’s a project.
Currently restoring a 1979 sea ray Sundancer 240, needs motor work and complete interior restoration, video helped a lot
I am currently working on 1995 Striper 2150 doin the almost exact thing you did. I started in the gas tank area and have worked my way to the bulkhead just at the steps goin into the cuddy!
I am flabbergasted at the lack of workmanship from the manufacturer , but it does not surprise me .
I found a wide chisel and a rubber mallet was great for removing old tabbing from the hull, then 24 grit grinder to form the new key.
I love these videos. I have the same exact boat and year. I’m doing the same thing in my cabin! These videos give me hope I can do the same you are
What an awesome DIY series! I have a 1996 Trophy 2002 WA and am glad to have found your videos. One problem I have faced is sourcing older boat parts. I custom fabricated a plexiglass cuddy cabin hatch door for my boat, but it's not that great. I would love to find an OEM replacement, but have been looking for nearly 2 years with no luck. Any ideas on where to find older Trophy parts?
Hi Kyle, I have found that there is little to no chance of finding OEM parts, and I had the same issue. The acrylic hatch cover to the cabin door was cracked where the support springs are mounted, but luckily I had the original piece. So I found a fabricating shop that specializes in acrylic fabrication. The place builds aircraft and submarine windows etc. They copied the piece with tinted acrylic, bending the front lip exactly, routered the edges perfectly. They even drilled the holes for the locks exactly perfect, but they had the original to template. It cost me about $300 about 7 years ago. All I had to do was drill the tiny holes for the spring mounts.
Since 2010, I have replaced every bolt, latch, hatch etc that I could. Every year, I improve the boat in some way, but I’ve never found any Trophy parts anywhere. The only thing that’s been impossible to find are two things that so far are so obsolete that there’s zero chance: The Rub Rail insert and the plastic strips on the windows that hides the mounting bolts. There is almost a zero chance of ever finding these new, so I’ve had to make due. I was able to flip the Rub Rail insert around to hide a few damaged spots and re-seal it. I’ve totally removed the Rub Rail insert and sealed it twice since 2010.
at 38 seconds, you can see the entire front in one frame. I am curious, is there any room to stow away stuff in the area that is the floor un front section. The triangular area you would lay on up front. This is the same space as the storage area. I would like to place a 11x15 hatch under the triangular cushion and just stash away a couple of items there even in a ziplac bag is fine. Is there room there ? I figured you would know this for sure. Thanks
Hi David. There is space under the triangular forward berth, and I considered doing just that, but I was afraid there was a stringer running down the centre spine, supporting the centre line of the bunk, so I decided not to risk cutting into it. A rectangular hatch would not work.
I did purchase a little endoscope inspection camera, and used it to check the drainage between the step and the fuel tank, so all it would take is drilling a 3/4" hole and taking a peek. One day, when the pain of this project subsides, I may do just that. Having another storage option would be GREAT!
I keep checking in to see if you have posted any new content. Will you be posting anything soon?
Instead of all that grinding and sanding where the carpet glue is, I was thinking about putting some bond over it then painting. What are your thoughts?
Hi James, the glue is so thick and hard to remove. In a future episode you’ll see where I applied gelcoat over some glue area, and it peeled off and created a bit of a nightmare. I would say, no. You have to get the glue off. I have a bunch of episodes in various stages of editing. There’s more to come.
@@diyprojecttrophyfibreglass7892 Any content or advice with this is much appreciated.
There were so many voids and poor glassing at the factory, that I had to do substantial repair before any finishing.
I don’t know about bonding to the glue. I know for a fact that resin and gel coat did not adhere and it continues to be a problem until it was ground away.
If you did it, I’m curious to hear how it went and what you used.
Dude, Y'all don't need to sand every square inch... unless you have OCD. Most of that could be cleaned with acetone, and good to go. I mean the transom, and runners, yeah, but the headliner?
What kind of paint did you use on the inside of your cabin? I just pulled the carpet out of my Trophy 2002 WA. Did the fiberglass now I'm ready to paint and not sure which paint to use (I bought a small amount of gelcoat, but am apprehensive with it)
Gel coat all the way. No paint ever. You’ll regret it. Learn how gel coat works. Waxed, non-waxed laminating and curing. Gel coat good. Paint bad.
If I had to use Paint … and I almost did .. and I lived in the States, I chose Alexseal. A 2-part marine paint. I’d make sure use the proper Alexseal primer.
@@diyprojecttrophyfibreglass7892 I ended up using 3 quarts of Rustoleum Marine Topside Paint. So far so good.
@@diyprojecttrophyfibreglass7892 Considering the amount of hours I spent in that damn cuddy cabin, I wish I would have just left the carpet in 😂😂😂
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