like you, changed lots of vacuum hoses, sensors, chasing wires, but never changed that module. Always runs great for a bit then feels like it's chocking it self out. we sound like we have same symtoms. gonna change this module out. thanks for troubleshooting and explaining issue.
I just hit the 5.5 standard deep socket (I think that’s the size) with and angle grinder to the sides so the walls are shallowed and has worked for me for
This TFI module sucks! I had, again, this same issue last summer but it took me many trips to the autoparts store to figure out what sockets and ratchet I needed! What a pain! Wish I had this video a year ago! I read you can move this module to avoid the heat issue but I'm not sure. I was also able to pull the distributor cap without disturbing any other parts, it was a pain but doable!
As myself schooled in electronics & a long-term retired mechanic...electronics & hot engine-bays don't mix. Honda at one point used a Peltier device, a solid-state cooler like those 12V car fridges...integrated into their distributor modules. The logical solution is to relocate these devices as far away from heat sources, in front of the core support to the sides of the radiator would be best. Heat management of electronics is more & more ignored & makes for not lasting very long (throwaway society). Find your internet router right now in your home...I'd bet $100 it is hot to the touch...doesn't make for lasting very long.
The mechanics here in Los Cabos are very good and very bad to charge for finding faults but I have several years with my Bronco 2 and do not want to get rid of it but restore
I have a 90 EB Bronco II that I keep in La Playita (San Jose del Cabo) and am currently having the engine replaced - do you know of a good, trusted mechanic in the area for this vehicle?
They make a little ratcheting wrench with the bit built in for ford moduels , i love your bronco2 i have an 87 same color only roof is maroon too mine only has 18k on it
many times when he starts to choke and spew black smoke but the engine shuts off when arrancarlo on without problem and sometimes short and sometimes the problem when turning it continues
i fix electronics---amplifers etc w/output chips....that use heat paste....ive got a 87 Bronco II n something tells me pulling mine out n adding some HI-TECH heat paste would extend life of it.... no? I know that def B4 i take a long trip id install a new one! Also Installed a new MAF sensor ( on passenger firewall) 6 mos later ....Started same idling thing again..up n down,,, I found the TOP cover of maf sensor was LOOSE, so i bring in house.. pull off, n use HOT GLUE to COMPLETELY fill internal area of maf sensor........ NO MO problems :)
It is located on the inside of the frame rail on the drivers side about even with the seat back. It is between the fuel pump which is also on the frame rail and the fuel tank. There is also a fuel pump in the gas tank. The
My Bronco II is Year 88 and I live in Los Cabos Baja California Sur Mexico. for a long time I tried to be correct the problem but did not find the fault and have changed parts randomness is trying to remove the problem but still not remove him
It also has a flaw that makes it fail intermittently as if drowning excess gasoline but it will change various sensors and each time they connect you to the scanner does not show what the problem is, what do you think is what is going wrong?
As of this writing I am still having the issue of stalling , also I didnt mention both fuel pumps are new ,since my first post ,I have put in new fuel pump relay , new throttle positioning sensor , new TFI module , so I am thinking its either the distributor or coil as everything else is new for the most part , anyone have any issues as this ? Any help is appreciated Thank you in advance frank
Hello I have a 1987 B 2 , 2.9 motor has been pulled new clutch ,engine seals complete , it usually runs good but recently it has been when running no throttle response while moving or is like its stalling then when you give it the gas nothing then all of a sudden its on again accelerating normal ,is this similar to the problem you`ve had ,if it is then I need to do this fix .
Friend you who are giving examples of how to change parts of your Bronco II would like to help me and tell me that when strongly accelerated throws black smoke?
@@AnnoyedCoastalBeach-nl4tm it does need to be grounded but it doesn't need to be grounded to the distributor and if it did need to be you could just run a ground wire from the distributor to the module I'm probably going to do this in the next few months I just got through solving and injector problem on mine going to take it out on some test runs and drive it as a daily driver and see if that thing wins it going bad I got mine out of a barn after sitting for 5 years only has 80,000 original miles single owner I'll update this later
@@sebastianharrison6118 I have an 89 rebuilt the motor at 170,000 miles got another 120,000 sense rebuild still doing good don't drive it every day anymore . Had an 86 before this one and a tree fell on it in a storm totaled it ,got the 89 with insurance money.
did you use the heat sink compound? im thinking thats why i will need to do this job again. processors on computers require this as well and looking back if its critical for a p.c. it should be to for this chip
@@pearlrival3124 Yes I use the heat sink, its a must, but the problem is in bad design. The TFI Ignition module needs to stay cool basically, to much heat kills it so ford said lets put on the back of the distributor, next to the firewall. It just gets way to hot back there, all that engine heat gets flung back and bonces of the fire wall on to the module killing it. I found the a fix tho. I made a aluminum heat sink plate, that I mounted to the side wall. Then heat sink the module to it, and extend the factory wiring harness to the module. You then have to make a wiring harness, the shorter the better, to go from the module to the back of the distributor. as well as a 'I used aluminum' plate to close in the gap on the back of the distributor. It's a little tricky to do, and I have no real guide to give, but its doable and has worked really well for almost a month. I've noticed none of the normal signs that I normally see immediately after replacing the module that indicate it will start burning out.
@@joniray6686 I wish you could send pictures. it sounds ideal. im picturing a cpu processor (look this up if your not familiar). thermal paste, plus heatsink, plus fan. I stopped driving mine a few years back because it shut down with my wife and kids in it. it started back 30 minutes later, but that was an ass chewing that I didnt want to go through again. I have some cash I can throw at it now, but I definitely dont want to "throw parts at it" like he did in this video. that fuel pump replacement had to cost him a fortune. my other symptom is a random spit and sputter. some times it shuts offf completely some times not is this something you were dealing with?
@@pearlrival3124 Yep sounds all most like the same issue. I recommend if you start driving it again, and have the same issue. Drive somewhere turn it off and can't start it again. pop the hood crawl on top of the hot engine, and wiggle the wiring harness and tap/knock the module, then try cranking again. 9.5 times out of 10 allowed me to get it to crank, 3 out of 10 times causes the random spiting and sputtering. I keep a large old towel in mine for a year just for crawling on the engine because of this module. Ive burned throw 4 modules be for finally doing the diy fix. Wait that's not true, the 4th module kind of works and I've keep it in the bronco just in case something goes wrong the new one I bought after the fix. keep in mind I've only done this fix about a month ago, and so far shows no signs of any further problem. Still I can't be 100% on if its a true fix.
@@joniray6686 well let me know if you can find this feed/page again. im going to do heat sink concept. ill take pictures of what I do and post. the fan would be ideal but i dont know if i can get the parts. ill post if it solves the issue for me. alot easier than fuel pump replacement. i replaced it in 2008 and drove the hell out of it until 2016. if i can get 8 more years out of it before another module im happy.
like you, changed lots of vacuum hoses, sensors, chasing wires, but never changed that module. Always runs great for a bit then feels like it's chocking it self out. we sound like we have same symtoms. gonna change this module out. thanks for troubleshooting and explaining issue.
did it work?
Also put in some reman injectors, can make a huge difference. $65 delivered on Ebay.
Great video. Good lighting and good test results. Thanks
Thank you!
7/32 deep socket 1/4 craftsman socket works as well!
This worked for me as well. 😅
I am about to try it out , thank you .
Awesome, you helped save our 1988 Ranger. Same engine. I think the coil was going bad as well.
Thanks for the vid. Have the same 88 stick shift. Im now going to buy these parts and socket just in case. Greetings from San Diego.
Berns Eff awesome man!
I just hit the 5.5 standard deep socket (I think that’s the size) with and angle grinder to the sides so the walls are shallowed and has worked for me for
This TFI module sucks! I had, again, this same issue last summer but it took me many trips to the autoparts store to figure out what sockets and ratchet I needed! What a pain! Wish I had this video a year ago! I read you can move this module to avoid the heat issue but I'm not sure. I was also able to pull the distributor cap without disturbing any other parts, it was a pain but doable!
It is all a pain, lol.
As myself schooled in electronics & a long-term retired mechanic...electronics & hot engine-bays don't mix. Honda at one point used a Peltier device, a solid-state cooler like those 12V car fridges...integrated into their distributor modules.
The logical solution is to relocate these devices as far away from heat sources, in front of the core support to the sides of the radiator would be best.
Heat management of electronics is more & more ignored & makes for not lasting very long (throwaway society). Find your internet router right now in your home...I'd bet $100 it is hot to the touch...doesn't make for lasting very long.
Can I bring my 87 bronco ii to y’all for a tune up? Experiencing similar issue however to a lesser degree. Nice video.. Thx. Jay.
I have a 1988 Bronco II here in Lewistown, Mt. Good rigs.
The mechanics here in Los Cabos are very good and very bad to charge for finding faults but I have several years with my Bronco 2 and do not want to get rid of it but restore
I have a 90 EB Bronco II that I keep in La Playita (San Jose del Cabo) and am currently having the engine replaced - do you know of a good, trusted mechanic in the area for this vehicle?
They make a little ratcheting wrench with the bit built in for ford moduels , i love your bronco2 i have an 87 same color only roof is maroon too mine only has 18k on it
That’s awesome man!
That’s a dumb place for a distributor.. against the firewall? Great truck and video . Glad your keeping it on the road
newday89 yea I hate it. That’s how most Chevy’s are.
My 86 bronco 2 is doing this rn. Where did you get the socket.
Doing one right now same problem runs for 1/2 hour and shuts off will not start. 1988 Ranger 2.9L thanks for the video great content.
Jelly Kung thanks bud
many times when he starts to choke and spew black smoke but the engine shuts off when arrancarlo on without problem and sometimes short and sometimes the problem when turning it continues
I'm confused why you added dielectric to the prongs on the outside. Can anyone clarify this for me?
Got a bronco 2. Replaced the in tank pump and it ran perfect. Next day neither pump worked. Inirtia switch checked out fine. Any ideas?
Did you check the fuse and relay?
You do not need to remove intake manifold to pull distributor.
The socket I got said it is for 1/2 inch.
What year did you do this video because cheap as I can find is 40 and the other one was 70
Of the module is bad would that make it not start or have spark
i fix electronics---amplifers etc w/output chips....that use heat paste....ive got a 87 Bronco II n something tells me pulling mine out n adding some HI-TECH heat paste would extend life of it.... no? I know that def B4 i take a long trip id install a new one! Also Installed a new MAF sensor ( on passenger firewall) 6 mos later ....Started same idling thing again..up n down,,, I found the TOP cover of maf sensor was LOOSE, so i bring in house.. pull off, n use HOT GLUE to COMPLETELY fill internal area of maf sensor........ NO MO problems :)
Definitely! That’s the main issue is the heat soak.
Where is the fuel filter located on a 86 bronco 11
It is located on the inside of the frame rail on the drivers side about even with the seat back. It is between the fuel pump which is also on the frame rail and the fuel tank. There is also a fuel pump in the gas tank. The
The tfi also controls the fuel pumps as well. If u take off the dist cap and rotor button , U CAN remove the whole dist. from the engine .
My Bronco II is Year 88 and I live in Los Cabos Baja California Sur Mexico. for a long time I tried to be correct the problem but did not find the fault and have changed parts randomness is trying to remove the problem but still not remove him
Ya arreglaste tu bronco ll
Is That where you hook up an aftermarket tachometer
No
It goes to the + terminal on the coil
It also has a flaw that makes it fail intermittently as if drowning excess gasoline but it will change various sensors and each time they connect you to the scanner does not show what the problem is, what do you think is what is going wrong?
did you find a solution?
As of this writing I am still having the issue of stalling , also I didnt mention both fuel pumps are new ,since my first post ,I have put in new fuel pump relay , new throttle positioning sensor , new TFI module , so I am thinking its either the distributor or coil as everything else is new for the most part , anyone have any issues as this ? Any help is appreciated Thank you in advance frank
Hello I have a 1987 B 2 , 2.9 motor has been pulled new clutch ,engine seals complete , it usually runs good but recently it has been when running no throttle response while moving or is like its stalling then when you give it the gas nothing then all of a sudden its on again accelerating normal ,is this similar to the problem you`ve had ,if it is then I need to do this fix .
Sounds like it definitely could be, or maybe the fuel pumps going out.
@@HiRevzMedia I would have thought that myself but both are new plus filter
Friend you who are giving examples of how to change parts of your Bronco II would like to help me and tell me that when strongly accelerated throws black smoke?
Change the fuel filter!! you will be happy.✌️
Did your temp gauge ever go up when the car had those issues?
No it didn’t
Bro you are literally driving down warhill that where I live no way
Y not just put some extension leads on it and mount it somewhere cool
I think it needs to be grounded to the distributor.
@@AnnoyedCoastalBeach-nl4tm it does need to be grounded but it doesn't need to be grounded to the distributor and if it did need to be you could just run a ground wire from the distributor to the module I'm probably going to do this in the next few months I just got through solving and injector problem on mine going to take it out on some test runs and drive it as a daily driver and see if that thing wins it going bad I got mine out of a barn after sitting for 5 years only has 80,000 original miles single owner I'll update this later
@@sebastianharrison6118 I have an 89 rebuilt the motor at 170,000 miles got another 120,000 sense rebuild still doing good don't drive it every day anymore . Had an 86 before this one and a tree fell on it in a storm totaled it ,got the 89 with insurance money.
my 89 has gone throw 2 of those, and is killing its 3rd. there has got to be a better way to fix this.
did you use the heat sink compound? im thinking thats why i will need to do this job again. processors on computers require this as well and looking back if its critical for a p.c. it should be to for this chip
@@pearlrival3124 Yes I use the heat sink, its a must, but the problem is in bad design.
The TFI Ignition module needs to stay cool basically, to much heat kills it so ford said lets put on the back of the distributor, next to the firewall. It just gets way to hot back there, all that engine heat gets flung back and bonces of the fire wall on to the module killing it.
I found the a fix tho. I made a aluminum heat sink plate, that I mounted to the side wall. Then heat sink the module to it, and extend the factory wiring harness to the module. You then have to make a wiring harness, the shorter the better, to go from the module to the back of the distributor. as well as a 'I used aluminum' plate to close in the gap on the back of the distributor.
It's a little tricky to do, and I have no real guide to give, but its doable and has worked really well for almost a month. I've noticed none of the normal signs that I normally see immediately after replacing the module that indicate it will start burning out.
@@joniray6686 I wish you could send pictures. it sounds ideal. im picturing a cpu processor (look this up if your not familiar). thermal paste, plus heatsink, plus fan. I stopped driving mine a few years back because it shut down with my wife and kids in it. it started back 30 minutes later, but that was an ass chewing that I didnt want to go through again. I have some cash I can throw at it now, but I definitely dont want to "throw parts at it" like he did in this video. that fuel pump replacement had to cost him a fortune. my other symptom is a random spit and sputter. some times it shuts offf completely some times not is this something you were dealing with?
@@pearlrival3124 Yep sounds all most like the same issue. I recommend if you start driving it again, and have the same issue. Drive somewhere turn it off and can't start it again. pop the hood crawl on top of the hot engine, and wiggle the wiring harness and tap/knock the module, then try cranking again. 9.5 times out of 10 allowed me to get it to crank, 3 out of 10 times causes the random spiting and sputtering.
I keep a large old towel in mine for a year just for crawling on the engine because of this module. Ive burned throw 4 modules be for finally doing the diy fix. Wait that's not true, the 4th module kind of works and I've keep it in the bronco just in case something goes wrong the new one I bought after the fix.
keep in mind I've only done this fix about a month ago, and so far shows no signs of any further problem. Still I can't be 100% on if its a true fix.
@@joniray6686 well let me know if you can find this feed/page again. im going to do heat sink concept. ill take pictures of what I do and post. the fan would be ideal but i dont know if i can get the parts. ill post if it solves the issue for me. alot easier than fuel pump replacement. i replaced it in 2008 and drove the hell out of it until 2016. if i can get 8 more years out of it before another module im happy.
TF SC
Heater Core Replacement makes up for all other sins...
Mat Helm 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Truth
i dont get it? was this the culprit for the increased heat issues around the tfi?