I was very reluctant to tackle my rear brake shoe replacement on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe so i watched Eric's vidio on the topic 2X. Although the job took me about 5 hours from jack up to clean up and testing i have to say that I feel quite proud and satisfied with a job well done. I don't know exactly how much this would have cost me at the shop but I know that my brakes are "good' and i like the way that Eric showed how to clean up the entire brake housing area so that everything is in like new working condition again on something so important to my safety.
Thats why I said he is the best!!! He takes his time to actually show you step by step of how to do the job the right way and he actually teaches you what each part is used for and how to use them. And with Eric he actually shows you what tools you need to do the job. I was watching briansmobile on TH-cam and brian doesn't take the time to do these things as I requested from him. Instead brian sends me a pissy message on his page telling me he doesn't have the time to put that in his videos!
You do a great job of teaching people how to do the work safely and explain why things are done this way... I just bought a 97 and it has brake problems, thanks for the video.
There are alot of Mechanics on the NET, But no one is as in depth as Eric, he shows you the whole thing all the way, not even step by step you see the whole Job from start to finish , if you need to do it, you just watch the video and you are 100% ok.
You mentioned you've seen drum brakes last well over 100,000 miles with original brakes. I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt with 111,000 miles and never once have I changed the rear drum brakes. I find that unbelievable but the inevitable reality is I will probably be changing them soon I have a really bad feeling every time I drive it because it's all original brakes!! Thought you'd like to know. Great video by the way. I love all of your videos.
Another awesome video from Eric the Car God! I learn so much from this channel! Who needs automotive school when Eric is a far better teacher for FREE!!!!! Marc
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any help you can give me
Hmm... for the record I've been lubing adjusters for 40 years and never had one seize. Manuals tell you to lube them as well. As they wind 'out' in operation, crud/spooge isn't dragged into them. Water can enter though, and be trapped for long periods. Grease protects against rust when that happens. I've always just used white grease. Had always used the same on the back plate pads till I saw you using anti seize, like that better, and have since followed suit. Great videos, Thanks!
I think Eric keeps in mind he may have some younger veiwers and he always keeps his cool, Does not swear as kids may be watching, and hell he can pretty much figure most sht out with out it getting to him.
Eric is the kinda guy if you need to do work on your vehical you just take a laptop with you and watch him and you can do it yourself ;) it's like he is right there with you.
Eric, your videos are awesome. I drive an Acura TL with disc brakes all around, yet I still watch videos like this...just because its interesting and you're so good at explaining everything. Keep up the good work man!
On GM's, those are designed to be knocked out the first time. Then you can buy a little plastic plug, at your auto parts store. I think Dorman among others makes the plug.
There are some diffs that are aluminum. It's not obvious that it is aluminum unless you're in a rust prone area or you have a magnet handy. And it's not just race cars with aluminum diffs, some Jeeps have them too. Aluminum diffs can deform and be ruined if you lift by them. Otherwise, though, it is sometimes an acceptable lift point (the FSM for my Jeep says it is IF you have the steel diff instead of the aluminum one).
If you adjust the adjuster BEFORE taking off the drum. You will notice a HUGE difference in how easy the drum will come off. 1. Adjust adjuster 2. Spray drum with brake cleaner 3. Tap between studs with hamer. 4. Remove.
I have one of those drum pullers. They don't rent them at the auto store. You get them from JC Whitney's. They cost around $50. They are not as thick as you would think. You don't pull with them. What you do, is put them on and gradually tighten while lightly tapping the pullers arms. It helps but dont expect it to just pull off the drum. Its made of thin steel and breaks easily.
I've always used a *thin* coating of grease on the adjusters (threads and 'cup' on the other end) in my '67 Chevy,and never had an issue. Also,good tip on the pop noise/backing plate! I might need to check the backing plates,I've noticed a "POP" noise once or twice.
Eric does not get that pissed all that often, Yes he has got pissed but you will never see him show that,That is why he is Eric the Car guy. , He deals with it, and he also knows that maybe some kids watch his videos, so if you expect him to cuss, dont count on it.
Thanks for the vid. Preparing for my exams next week, and one of the things i'm unsure of is drum brakes. My brand havent stopped with drumbrakes 10 years ago, so we rarely see any.
I had a Chevy S10 that had similar brake troubles. the shoes were cracked from being overheated. What it was (after many trials and errors), was the axle shaft seal was leaking the grease onto the brakes. I didnt see any grease in the drum. Just leaked enough to over heat and create havoc. Even MONROE brakes didn't figure out the problem. I had figured out on my own, after many hours............
Good Job on explaining each detail steps. Gonna look for my brake tools. Also, if you have crossed drilled and slant rotors. How long do they last and do you replace it again? Cause I hear they cannot be turned. They were installed new and now the pads need to be replaced .The last change was a full Rotor, Caliper and pad replacement. So this would be my first maintenance pad change. Plz. Let me know your thoughts about the front rotors. I will be inspecting them but dont have proper tools to measure the thickness.
5th time watching this video in the last year and my 1997 Suburban K1500 rear drum brakes started squeaking to indicate they need to be changed and I'm almost certain I'm just going to pay someone to do it but I'm so glad I watched it again because I'm now going to order rivited pads.
I like to squirt the entire assembly with water before starting. I also change into new gloves as soon as I start handling the new shoes. I just wish Dodge kept using that style of drum brake instead of the non-servo type, since my spring pliers don't work on them. Have to wrestle with a pair of needle-nose to get the springs on. Thankfully I don't do drum brakes that often (Three times in the last four years).
14:16 Now that you mentioned the "loud pop", now I understand why once, one of the rear brakes of my car remained jammed after I released the parking brake when I was going to drive the car, and then like after 3 or 5 minutes after releasing the parking brake I heard a "loud pop" and suddendly all was well. (side note: I didn't attempted to drive the car from the moment I noticed that something was wrong. I was outside the car waiting for it to "un-jam" because I know that I could cause damage)
This is sadly, very true, in 1989 asbestos was banned for use in vehicle brakes, but this does not necessarily mean that all of a sudden every vehicle on the road was asbestos free, in fact there were some accounts of vehicles with aftermarket brakes having traces of asbestos. My suggestion is that you wet the whole area you are working with, before trying to remove anything, this will prevent the asbestos from becoming air borne. My grandfather died of mesothelioma from asbestos brakes.
Chances to damage it are slim to none, I often jack my Explorer by the Diff, trust me they are pretty thick steel and you wont hurt them.Manuals say alot of technical stuff, but if you need a solid jacking point it will not hurt.
Good video Eric.I would have to agree about the self adjuster. I never looked as putting lubricant on as causing a problem but it makes perfect sense. just one question why do you perfer copper anti-seize over the silver?
The masking tape tip is great. I would like to know that 2 weeks ago when I did my brake and put grease all over the pads... Eric: why do you use anti-seize on the back plate. Isn't brake grease better? anti-seize usually dry out fast and pad would not move as easily?
Well on older cars like my Ford explore it's a 93 and the only place on many older cars to get a secure Jacking up is By it, and with the jack and 2 jack stands you are 99.9% safe that the truck will not fall and crush you.
i know you made videos on your tool box, but can you make a video or start a section on tools and gear as far as good buys, stuff to stay away from, explanation on what is for what, example anti seize vs copper anti seize etc.
I might have made a mistake.My brake cylinder was busted and I took out the forks of the old one and pushed them Into the new one until they touched together on the Inside of the new cylinder.Did I possibly ruin my new one by simply pushing the line until I could feel them bump together ?
8:32 -KA-KING-KING "Sorry about that" -Turns off camera "MY HAND!!!! OH YOU PIECE OF MO*^#*$&%& S&^* I'LL SHOW YOU" Seriously Eric you have to make a special video of you blowing off some steam, it would make for good laughs. :)
Was the passenger side shoe burnt and cracked too? GM truck drum brakes sometimes stick on the driver's side, due to the cable getting stretched out over time.
That whole grove thing, I think I have that problem. I did not really notice the last time I was in there but I have replaced everything shy of master cylinder and brake lines on the entire vehicle but I really get a bad grabbing issue from time to time.
hey eric, i had a question, in my autoshop class my teacher told us some older cars contained asbestos dust inside the drum brake from the shoes. just wondering if you know any older cars that contained these shoes? and even if its true?
One day, can you show us how that 'self adjuster' star wheel actually works? I think I can imagine how it works, but we never get to see it in action....
Eric I need help....I have a Tahoe just like this its a 99 and the front driver brake makes a screeching notice and when I come to a stop they lock up......what could this be??
I was told my adjustment lever is not for my vehicle and the oe replacement doesn’t fit. My rear has 11” shoes the adjustment lever is 11 1/2” how is that possible? What can i do?
What a shame you had to take it to bits again :-( I see the self adjuster point, clean is not flypaper. I expected that cerclip to go "ping........" as they often do :-) Would a 13-14mm nut fit into the top of the pin+spring hats? just wondered.
so my girlfriend drove my truck home with the E brake on. then she left it like that. so i had to check out the drums....they were worped into a oblong shape. becouse the metal cooled weired with the E-brake allplied so i thought im gonna lathe them my self by doing a hundred miles an hour and slam the truck into her house.
I think those are 11” shoes/drum... I have a 98 with 10” shoes/drum and the arrangements/springs are different... (98 had 11” also, but mine has 10”-maybe because it’s a 2 door Tahoe).
Most rear axles (And by extension, the pinion housing) are made from cast iron, not steel. Cast iron, while very strong, is also quite brittle. If not properly handled, the housing may break. Of course, this is only a secondary reason why they tell you not to, the primary being they don't want you to have the car fall off the jack and damage, injure, or kill, and then hold them liable for damages due to your own stupidity.
Hey, is there a reason you decided to do another brake drum video? Aside from explaining the issue of the faulty shoes, isn't everything else pretty much the same as in that PT Cruiser version? Not complaining, just wondering.
WOW I just noticed those cracks from heat, when I replaced my flywheel it was the same way, I dont drive it like a moron I imagine the last owner drove it and got it hot alot.
I was very reluctant to tackle my rear brake shoe replacement on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe so i watched Eric's vidio on the topic 2X. Although the job took me about 5 hours from jack up to clean up and testing i have to say that I feel quite proud and satisfied with a job well done. I don't know exactly how much this would have cost me at the shop but I know that my brakes are "good' and i like the way that Eric showed how to clean up the entire brake housing area so that everything is in like new working condition again on something so important to my safety.
Thats why I said he is the best!!! He takes his time to actually show you step by step of how to do the job the right way and he actually teaches you what each part is used for and how to use them. And with Eric he actually shows you what tools you need to do the job. I was watching briansmobile on TH-cam and brian doesn't take the time to do these things as I requested from him. Instead brian sends me a pissy message on his page telling me he doesn't have the time to put that in his videos!
You do a great job of teaching people how to do the work safely and explain why things are done this way... I just bought a 97 and it has brake problems, thanks for the video.
There are alot of Mechanics on the NET, But no one is as in depth as Eric, he shows you the whole thing all the way, not even step by step you see the whole Job from start to finish , if you need to do it, you just watch the video and you are 100% ok.
You mentioned you've seen drum brakes last well over 100,000 miles with original brakes. I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt with 111,000 miles and never once have I changed the rear drum brakes. I find that unbelievable but the inevitable reality is I will probably be changing them soon I have a really bad feeling every time I drive it because it's all original brakes!! Thought you'd like to know. Great video by the way. I love all of your videos.
Comedian Bill Burr talked about you briefly today on his podcast. He's a fan.
Another awesome video from Eric the Car God! I learn so much from this channel! Who needs automotive school when Eric is a far better teacher for FREE!!!!!
Marc
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any help you can give me
@Leandro Marley instablaster =)
Hmm... for the record I've been lubing adjusters for 40 years and never had one seize. Manuals tell you to lube them as well.
As they wind 'out' in operation, crud/spooge isn't dragged into them. Water can enter though, and be trapped for long periods. Grease protects against rust when that happens.
I've always just used white grease. Had always used the same on the back plate pads till I saw you using anti seize, like that better, and have since followed suit.
Great videos, Thanks!
I think Eric keeps in mind he may have some younger veiwers and he always keeps his cool, Does not swear as kids may be watching, and hell he can pretty much figure most sht out with out it getting to him.
Eric is the kinda guy if you need to do work on your vehical you just take a laptop with you and watch him and you can do it yourself ;) it's like he is right there with you.
Thank you so much! There is a special place in heaven for people like you.
Eric, your videos are awesome. I drive an Acura TL with disc brakes all around, yet I still watch videos like this...just because its interesting and you're so good at explaining everything. Keep up the good work man!
On GM's, those are designed to be knocked out the first time. Then you can buy a little plastic plug, at your auto parts store. I think Dorman among others makes the plug.
There are some diffs that are aluminum. It's not obvious that it is aluminum unless you're in a rust prone area or you have a magnet handy. And it's not just race cars with aluminum diffs, some Jeeps have them too.
Aluminum diffs can deform and be ruined if you lift by them. Otherwise, though, it is sometimes an acceptable lift point (the FSM for my Jeep says it is IF you have the steel diff instead of the aluminum one).
If you adjust the adjuster BEFORE taking off the drum. You will notice a HUGE difference in how easy the drum will come off.
1. Adjust adjuster
2. Spray drum with brake cleaner
3. Tap between studs with hamer.
4. Remove.
I have one of those drum pullers. They don't rent them at the auto store. You get them from JC Whitney's. They cost around $50. They are not as thick as you would think. You don't pull with them. What you do, is put them on and gradually tighten while lightly tapping the pullers arms. It helps but dont expect it to just pull off the drum. Its made of thin steel and breaks easily.
Best one I have seen. The most thorough. Very nicely done. Great suggestions.
I've always used a *thin* coating of grease on the adjusters (threads and 'cup' on the other end) in my '67 Chevy,and never had an issue.
Also,good tip on the pop noise/backing plate! I might need to check the backing plates,I've noticed a "POP" noise once or twice.
Best thing to do is go watch the older videos till part 2 comes out.I have watched all his videos like 10 times each.
Eric does not get that pissed all that often, Yes he has got pissed but you will never see him show that,That is why he is Eric the Car guy. , He deals with it, and he also knows that maybe some kids watch his videos, so if you expect him to cuss, dont count on it.
Fire-Bull-02 was here, Thanks for posting. Anti-seize is great for saving headaces later.
Thanks for the vid. Preparing for my exams next week, and one of the things i'm unsure of is drum brakes. My brand havent stopped with drumbrakes 10 years ago, so we rarely see any.
I had a Chevy S10 that had similar brake troubles. the shoes were cracked from being overheated. What it was (after many trials and errors), was the axle shaft seal was leaking the grease onto the brakes. I didnt see any grease in the drum. Just leaked enough to over heat and create havoc. Even MONROE brakes didn't figure out the problem. I had figured out on my own, after many hours............
Good Job on explaining each detail steps. Gonna look for my brake tools. Also, if you have crossed drilled and slant rotors. How long do they last and do you replace it again? Cause I hear they cannot be turned. They were installed new and now the pads need to be replaced .The last change was a full Rotor, Caliper and pad replacement. So this would be my first maintenance pad change. Plz. Let me know your thoughts about the front rotors. I will be inspecting them but dont have proper tools to measure the thickness.
5th time watching this video in the last year and my 1997 Suburban K1500 rear drum brakes started squeaking to indicate they need to be changed and I'm almost certain I'm just going to pay someone to do it but I'm so glad I watched it again because I'm now going to order rivited pads.
Exactly the same setup as my 94 Suburban.
........
There was much cursing that day...
It will be along in time Eric likes to make us wait for the videos LOL. Dont worry I am always saying where is Part 2 , give it a day or two. XD
I like to squirt the entire assembly with water before starting. I also change into new gloves as soon as I start handling the new shoes. I just wish Dodge kept using that style of drum brake instead of the non-servo type, since my spring pliers don't work on them. Have to wrestle with a pair of needle-nose to get the springs on. Thankfully I don't do drum brakes that often (Three times in the last four years).
Stick around if you want to know how to work on cars you are in the right place.Go check out all his videos
How about backing off adjuster before removing drum before a puller? Shoes could be inside worn ridge of drum, preventing removal.
14:16 Now that you mentioned the "loud pop", now I understand why once, one of the rear brakes of my car remained jammed after I released the parking brake when I was going to drive the car, and then like after 3 or 5 minutes after releasing the parking brake I heard a "loud pop" and suddendly all was well.
(side note: I didn't attempted to drive the car from the moment I noticed that something was wrong. I was outside the car waiting for it to "un-jam" because I know that I could cause damage)
This is sadly, very true, in 1989 asbestos was banned for use in vehicle brakes, but this does not necessarily mean that all of a sudden every vehicle on the road was asbestos free, in fact there were some accounts of vehicles with aftermarket brakes having traces of asbestos.
My suggestion is that you wet the whole area you are working with, before trying to remove anything, this will prevent the asbestos from becoming air borne. My grandfather died of mesothelioma from asbestos brakes.
Great video Eric. If I get a son, I'm naming him after you.
Awesome show. Always very well done. Hopefully someday I can get my shows as good as yours.
Chances to damage it are slim to none, I often jack my Explorer by the Diff, trust me they are pretty thick steel and you wont hurt them.Manuals say alot of technical stuff, but if you need a solid jacking point it will not hurt.
Thread the wheel nuts on a few so when you hit the hub you don't goof the threads.
love that these videos are in HD now :)
great vid
You can knock those tabs out for the adjuster & buy the rubber plugs yourself. Plugs aren't that expensive.
Good video Eric.I would have to agree about the self adjuster. I never looked as putting lubricant on as causing a problem but it makes perfect sense. just one question why do you perfer copper anti-seize over the silver?
The masking tape tip is great. I would like to know that 2 weeks ago when I did my brake and put grease all over the pads...
Eric: why do you use anti-seize on the back plate. Isn't brake grease better? anti-seize usually dry out fast and pad would not move as easily?
Well on older cars like my Ford explore it's a 93 and the only place on many older cars to get a secure Jacking up is By it, and with the jack and 2 jack stands you are 99.9% safe that the truck will not fall and crush you.
i know you made videos on your tool box, but can you make a video or start a section on tools and gear as far as good buys, stuff to stay away from, explanation on what is for what, example anti seize vs copper anti seize etc.
Hi Eric,
Are those regular latex gloves you wear? How do you keep them from getting torn?
I might have made a mistake.My brake cylinder was busted and I took out the forks of the old one and pushed them Into the new one until they touched together on the Inside of the new cylinder.Did I possibly ruin my new one by simply pushing the line until I could feel them bump together ?
thanks u for this video I never commented on a utube video before but this was a huge help so thank you
If you mix up the drum adjusters from both sides, how can you tell which one is left and which one is right? Thank you
I agree , I like Brian , but to be honest he is not a Mechanic like Eric is , his video's are not like these ones, but Brian is a good guy.
A perfectly set adjuster will allow the drum to slide on and no self adjusting
8:32
-KA-KING-KING
"Sorry about that"
-Turns off camera
"MY HAND!!!! OH YOU PIECE OF MO*^#*$&%& S&^* I'LL SHOW YOU"
Seriously Eric you have to make a special video of you blowing off some steam, it would make for good laughs. :)
Was the passenger side shoe burnt and cracked too? GM truck drum brakes sometimes stick on the driver's side, due to the cable getting stretched out over time.
Right side adjuster is LH thread left hand is RH thread.
That whole grove thing, I think I have that problem. I did not really notice the last time I was in there but I have replaced everything shy of master cylinder and brake lines on the entire vehicle but I really get a bad grabbing issue from time to time.
Thanks for telling people to use safety glasses :)
always hated brake shoes replacement... still hating it... good informative video :)
yup! still using them on plenty of 2012 models too! Don't change something that works!!
hey eric, i had a question, in my autoshop class my teacher told us some older cars contained asbestos dust inside the drum brake from the shoes. just wondering if you know any older cars that contained these shoes? and even if its true?
One day, can you show us how that 'self adjuster' star wheel actually works? I think I can imagine how it works, but we never get to see it in action....
What are the names of the special tools you used in this video
If you call those shoes are worn out I would hate to hear would you would think about the ones I took off of my 1988 Scottsdale a while back
Eric I need help....I have a Tahoe just like this its a 99 and the front driver brake makes a screeching notice and when I come to a stop they lock up......what could this be??
Drum brakes have been around a long time, I always replace the hardware due to heat deterioration.
They make a tool to remove the spring. I've used pliers for over 30 years.
I was told my adjustment lever is not for my vehicle and the oe replacement doesn’t fit. My rear has 11” shoes the adjustment lever is 11 1/2” how is that possible? What can i do?
you must have a nice friends for letting you borrow the truck again and tearing it apart.
Wondering if you know of a good video for the 10” shoes/drum
I hate waiting for part 2!
One time I got oil in my eye. It hurt. I wear prescription glasses to. Next time I will wear safety glasses lol.
Hey Eric, how about doin a video on motorbikes?!
Guy at my work told me like 80% of the brakeing is actually the front brakes and the rear brakes dont do as much thats why they last so long.
Can I swap these rear break set onto a 5 lug Tahoe to convert to 6 lug ?
Good advice for wrk safety. 😀
Is the 4x4 / 6 lug brake shoe 11” ... I have a 2000 GMC Yukon Denali
Does the big shoe go in the back or the front
Hey man I really like your vids. Thanks.
Most older cars over 10yrs or so the pinch weld jack points are way more dangerous to jack it by...
What a shame you had to take it to bits again :-(
I see the self adjuster point, clean is not flypaper.
I expected that cerclip to go "ping........" as they often do :-)
Would a 13-14mm nut fit into the top of the pin+spring hats? just wondered.
eric the primary and secondary shoes are in the same position in the passenger side
Great explanation and video.
I always put new gloves on when putting on new shoes and pads
so my girlfriend drove my truck home with the E brake on. then she left it like that. so i had to check out the drums....they were worped into a oblong shape. becouse the metal cooled weired with the E-brake allplied so i thought im gonna lathe them my self by doing a hundred miles an hour and slam the truck into her house.
Good video homie
eric you could just knock or cut out that manual adjustment hole in the backing plate.
try using dry graphite spray on the adjuster screw.
Hell yeah , If anyone asks me who showed you that I say Eric The Car Guy, and leave it there.
i want to see a headlight adjustment video!
how to do this when the doors are Stuck close?! ( because of broken inside/outside handles )
I have a 1998 dodge ram and the rear drums have never been touched! it has 150k miles too.
i should probably change them soon, huh!
Why do shoes only make contact in six spots of the backing plate?
I would like a new video every day but oh well.
You are the best dude....
I think those are 11” shoes/drum... I have a 98 with 10” shoes/drum and the arrangements/springs are different... (98 had 11” also, but mine has 10”-maybe because it’s a 2 door Tahoe).
Most rear axles (And by extension, the pinion housing) are made from cast iron, not steel. Cast iron, while very strong, is also quite brittle. If not properly handled, the housing may break. Of course, this is only a secondary reason why they tell you not to, the primary being they don't want you to have the car fall off the jack and damage, injure, or kill, and then hold them liable for damages due to your own stupidity.
That tool would be like a giant wheel remover right?.
what does the noise sound like?
more videos when you do them in parts.
Great Video! anyone have any videos on replaceing brake shoes on full floating axles
Hey, is there a reason you decided to do another brake drum video? Aside from explaining the issue of the faulty shoes, isn't everything else pretty much the same as in that PT Cruiser version?
Not complaining, just wondering.
Make sure you tell them the front shoe is the small one....
WOW I just noticed those cracks from heat, when I replaced my flywheel it was the same way, I dont drive it like a moron I imagine the last owner drove it and got it hot alot.
good video, keep it up