ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2016
- This amplifier board suffers from very poor distortion and noise performance out-of-the-box. In this video I explore solutions and remedy the design issues present on the board.
In a nutshell, if you want to fix one of these boards, this is what to do:
1. Swap the two gain resistors (39K and 100K, under the heatsink) of ONE of the TPA3116 chips.
2. Bridge the 10K resistor by pin 16 of the left TPA3116 with a jumper.
(This fixes the "screechy" noise caused by both TPA3116 chips trying to drive the sync input of the other.)
3. Replace the main volume and LR volume potentiometers with lower value ones (10K used in this video)
(This fixes the noise that gets worse when the potentiometers are set to the 12 o' clock position)
The potentiometers used was similar to this: www.digikey.com/product-detail...
These two fixes combined lower the worst-case noise floor by over 10 dB, with gains of almost 20 dB under certain circumstances, which is extremely noticeable.
My original video on this board: • Dual TPA3116 board for...
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I know this is late but thanks for posting this!!! This solved all my noise problems.
Thank you for this great video series! I have the blue version of the board, but the resistors for the master/slave configuration are in exactly the same places. Changed them and the hissing was gone. I then desoldered the L/R-pot and replaced it with wire links, you don't need it anyways. This cured the rest of the noise - great!
Finally, I cut the traces directly in front of the bass-pot and soldered wires to the two outmost legs of one channel of the pot. This gives me a seperate subwoofer input and makes the amp finally usable. Very good result - thank you for your inspiration!
+hieroben_de I'm glad to hear it worked out for you.
do u have any workings or exact instruction on what u did mate? got someone who's going to do it for me as dnt have the tools or soldering skills myself.
@@FFcossagtengo un xr -139 es igual al de video pero el mío funciona porque le puse un voltaje mallo y no sé cómo arreglarlo
Thank you so much - i have 2 of these amps and following your instructions fixed the noise issues completely. amazing power from this little amp.
BTW mine have the bluetooth feature which unfortunately is very very noisy still, to the point of being useless almost. as long as i dont use bluetooth though it works great.
If you want to fix that, find the power lines going to the bluetooth module, cut them and put an isolation supply between them. The power to the module will be either 3.3 or 5v.
I comment on TH-cam about once every five years. This was an excellent video. Thanks.
Wow, thanks!
Great video! My old 3116 has a small shitty looking pink 3.5mm female connector. Would changing it for a more 'covered' one help too?
Thanks so much for this fix! I have the same noise, and thanks to You I know how to fix it!
I have the same issue here (exact same module). TYSM
Thanks for the video! I noticed something similar with the PAM8610 mini board. I was puzzled when I have seen the board and ordered one. My expectations were low but holy cow! The output music bass was distorted even though it was powered with a high amperage power supply and a large value capacitor was soldered directly to the voltage input part of the board. I also have this TPA3116 board which has a whining noise. So yea I was thinking that the switching and the clock has to do something with it, and also the chinese component budget cuts. but never thought about such monstrosities like not setting the clock sync mode and the high value potentiometers...
Also I tried to find a way to connect a vu-meter to the output of the TPA3116 board amplifier outputs. Since the output is -differential- i couldn't manage to connect anything which won't affect the output regards to the ground. Only transformer coupling could solve the problem, since capacitors would be connected to an op amp would be still referenced and pulled to ground by AC means.... a real pain in the boots....
Is there anyway to just eliminate the base/treble knobs so you have a normal output?
I have a Nobsound NS-14G Pro which is getting some digital noise. I wonder if that has the same problem as this...!
I bought one of these dual Tpa3116D2 from Sanwu named Hf208 with bluetooth that also had a distortion. I removed the heatsink to reveal the resistors but found it was built a bit different. And advice you can give me in that one. Maybe I can send some pics aswell?
I see at the beginning of the video you have the other board with 3 cap. Have you tested it yet? Does it have the same problem with the one cap version you fixed here. I have the 3 cap version, it's quite good but I don't have the equipment to test. I realy want to know may I can improve it like the 1 cap
I noticed that the input signal ground is put to be the same as the power ground. Can this cause problems with the noise floor? Also if the L/R plot goes straight to the tpa3116, how can the main volume plot affect to the volume level?
Does this board have some kind of crossover or low pass filter built in?
is there a way to mess with the bass crossover?
2:20 - Warm coils quiescently probably means the amplifiers are not running in BD mode - something you might want to experiment with.
I have buy a tpa3116d2 and buy a 24v 4a power supply since i use the 24v i have a loud humming specialy when i move the hi knob the higher you put the hi knob the louder it gets then one day i use my 12v supply andnit reduce the loud noise what shoud i do my 12v just using i thing 2a so it cannot supply the amp at pull volume
Is there a chance that you would make future video about how to add 2th volume knob to amplifier that have existing one.
I have amplifier with Bluetooth and usb inputs. Tpa3116 2.1ch 50w*2+100w
Forget about aux input, i dont use it.
Most of the time i use usb input.
I want to preset the amplifier volume without distortion at max as possible and hide the amplifer in a boombox.
The 2th knob will regulate the volume to the max volume that the first knob is set and this one will be outside of boombox.
I really searched guide for this in youtube and google, couldn't find one.
Best regards,
Alex
Thanks for the video !!! Its work perfect for me !
Thanks for the video. What are the opp amps for? I figured they were there to boost the signal on the input.
They make up the lowpass filter for the sub output. Someone reverse engineered the circuit somewhere in the comments for one of the videos I did on these boards.
Can I ask about the power amplifier? Because I have a TPA3116 D2 50W amplifier
I cannot help but notice the large toroidal chokes in the output filter. Is it possible that the small square chokes used in most other class D amps saturate at rated output causing distortions? Why use large toroids if the small chokes work?
I appreciate the vids you do on the Class D amps. I have watched all of your vids on them. What model is your favorite so far?
Possibly. The little squares probably have a tad better performance since they're a bit tighter in their construction, but what you're suggesting is entirely possible. However, since performance of these modules (when fixed) is basically the same as all the rest, I'm inclined to believe the chokes don't really matter too much.
As far as my favourite amplifier, I'd like to say the Breeze Audio because I like the look of it, but in practise it would be my somewhat modified Lepai LP-2020, but that's ONLY because I've put a giant volume knob on it that makes it really comfortable to use.
Hey there ! Awesome video ! I just got one of those 3 cap amps - powered it up with 24v and it released the magic smoke within 5 seconds (my #2 public service announcement video). I fried one of the TPA chips (which look wither 5th tier or fake); if you're interested I could send it over your way for an autopsy.
Darieee same here! Although i think my magic smoke is because of shorting wires. Dumb me forgot to separate them properly .
It worked before the messup
Just got my 24v power supply and tested it on the 3 Cap amplifier. Everything working just fine until I raise the volume and the subwoofer amp chanel cuts off. I have two 8ohms speakers connected in parallel for a total of 4ohmns on the subwoofer channel so i´m within the specs but the sub woofer cuts off at half volume. It used to work fine with 14v. The interesting part is that I have two 8ohms 30w each on the satellite channel also in parallel for a total of 4ohms and for theses I can crack it all the way up. Do you thing it´s an impedance problem. Even thou it wont happened at 12v? . Also in stand by with no song playing it draws 0.23A and I donkt know if it´s normal, at 14v it was drawing 0.12A.
I have the same problem with 2 tpa3118 whr Is plugged in stereo... I dont have pot how i can fix It?
thanks for sharing, you did a great job!! but why you corrected your oscilloscope's model lol.
I understand right? The 10k resistor must be connected between 16 pins of TPAs? Without capacitor from datasheet on 16 pin of down MC? (Sorry my English)
Wow I would love to see more videos like this
I make them whenever I get the chance.
Very informative video.
Very informative video! Quick question, instead of using a 10k pot, is it possible to bypass it completely and drop the gain to 20db on both chips to simplify the design? I would prefer just to use the main volume pot.
You can just short across the pots if you want to lock them at max volume. Or replace them with resistors.
@@FFcossag thanks! But would I benefit from dropping the gain in terms of noise floor and S/N?
Yes.
I've got a questin regarding another china amp board (tTDA3116). When I hooked it up in my old house it worked just fine, no strange noises. Now in my new house I get exactly the same noise as you have with this board only way louder. When I turn the volume only half way it starts to really hurt my ears.
The difference between the two houses as far as the mains power is concerned:
In my old house there was no earthing from the walls mains supply, in the new house there is. So can I therefore conclude it is an earhting/grounding problem? And how can I fix this?
Joren Canisius don't use ground?
I have a weird 3 cap version with 5k pots, 49k resistors instead of 39k, no bridges on the tda chip and it doesn't suffer from a screechy noice, just a hiss that's only noticeable when you put your ear next to the speaker. This mod made the two rightmost coils warmer and a loss of clarity for the l/r. Hiss was still there. removed the l/r pot then replaced with wire jumpers. This reduced the hiss. I reverted all of the mods except for the l/r bridges. Coils dont heat up anymore, sound clarity returned. So by replacing the l/r pot reduced the hiss, thinking of replacing the main pot with 10k? If that doesn't fix it, i'll just leave it be.
update, I just noticed that my amp has screeching sounds, it was not loud enough that's why I didn't notice right away. I checked the resistors and referred to the datasheet. Wrong combination of resistors was the problem. Mine had 100k and 47k, should have been 100k and 39k for 32db gain. So I replaced them, did the mod and guess what, noise gone! Thanks for this video!
I also found the solution for the hot inductors. Output filter caps for the subwoofer output should be (Output filter: L = 10 µH, C = 1 µF) when running on parallel mode, taken from datasheet. 680 nF is what I can read on the film caps. I will replace it when I find some good caps.
hey ! I have a completely different board, but the inductors on here are running stupid hot (way way too hot to touch) - damn thing draws 6W on 24V ... anyway - did you manage to fix that on yours ? Thanks a lot :D
Inductors running hot is almost always from the filter inductors and capacitors being the wrong value. You will need to look at the data sheet to see what it should have. It depends on a lot of variables.
Could you please make a video of how you did the same fix on the Nobsound? I have the same one. Thank you.
I don't have a Nobsound.
2:31 Were the pots turned down and it still heated up? From what I remember working on radios in the Air Force years ago, if you have no load connected when transmitting (or with imbalanced impedance) then heat can build up as a result of standing waves inside the device. I'm not sure whether that applies only to ancient radios or all electronics, though. Newer stuff like the Harris PRC-117(G) didn't seem to have issues with that, though it was standard practice to always have at least a dummy load. We were told to never transmit a signal generator, amp, radio, etc without a proper load.
I also could be a philistine and have no idea what I'm talking about.
You're right when talking about anything RF or anything with tubes in it. Solid-state Class A/AB/B amps don't care at all, and class D amps like this one shouldn't care if they're properly designed, and might care a little if they're trash.
How to fix TPA3116 d2 2.1 50+50+100 watt amplifire left channel no sound problem please tell
"Calibrated Snake Oil Detector". I love it
I have a problem with a dual TPA3116 stereo amp board. I did your mod and the screech noise is indeed gone. However, now I have another problem. The board is a stereo amp and so it has a single RCA stereo input terminal. One of the channels is now corrupted and weak. I noticed that one of the RCA terminals somehow transfers sound to both channels, so the channels are somehow joined. Do you have any thoughts on that ? Thank you in advance for any comments!
@FFcossag I watched this and immediately went to buy the pots and swapped the two gain resistors and voá la, it works no hiss. #goodbyehiss
@FFcossag do i need a log 10k potentiometer or a liniar one ?
Log, since it's a volume pot.
+FFcossag Thank you for the fast answer
how about the pop noise ?? DID it fix the pop noise aswell
what a job man great
Want try this,but i can't remove heatsink,,any idea
Thanks for this
Nice video. Expecting my amp in next few days, and now I know what to do with it... :)
Do you think potentiometers noise is value (10k vs 50k) or quality related? Could that be improved inside a grounded case?
Finding the problem with subwoofer channel in the other/original video was a bless, though I will try to find how to change the cutoff frequency - more like crossing 80hz at -3db of so. Crossing 80hz @ -6db is just too low, even for THX standards :) .
A 2nd order (12db/oct) active filter costs only 2 resistors, 2 capacitors and an ampop!! That is what I expect in a board like this... it's all there, but just badly implemented?!?!
+Joaquim Pereira The quality of the potentiometer has little relevance, the noise has to do solely with the resistance; higher value resistor equals more noise generated by it (yes, generated). It's thermal noise.
As for "THX standards", I don't give much for those. They put the THX logo on all the cheap crappy computer speakers, but none of the actual high-end gear you can buy.
As for the filter implementation, I ain't got no clue what they be doin'. I tried reverse engineering it a little, but it just made no sense.
+FFcossag THX thing was just a joke, but in fact THX and Audissey set subwoofer response to 80Hz, the rest going to main channels.
Some sellers say that this board has a subwoofer frequency adjustment... could it be that the middle pot is, in fact, that? Do you remember testing it that way?
Pot assignment, from these sellers: left - Stereo Sound Volume, middle: subwoofer frequency regulation, right: subwoofer volume. That could make sense.
If that's the case, we can even play with main channels frequency response as the 1uF input cap plays with IC input impedance forming a 1st order high pass filter... nice!
Joaquim Pereira I'm afraid the middle pot is just a level adjustment. It has no impact on the frequency response of the filter.
Thank you so much bro you are amazing
Hello and amplifier you in the direction pushed,unable to tell where his plus and minus is the speakers,I bought a similar one and there is no tag on how to connect don't know
The way it sounds best.
Hello, I made the same changes you made. But now I have the problem, that on my left speaker the treble is very low. You almost don't here a difference when you connect or disconnect it. Did I make something wrong? It almost soind like there is coming mono from the right speaker.
Something's gone wrong; you just have to check your work if the module worked before.
@FFcossag: Why did you cross out the labeling of your oscilloscope and call it DS1102E ?
It's running DS1102E firmware, and the only difference between the 1052 and the 1102 is the firmware.
Ah .... OK .... Thanks ! :)
Would it be any problem to wire midbass(30W)+tweeter(15W) in parallel of the same 50W output? Both 4Ohms plus 2nd order crossovers. Also, it wouldn't be a problem to connect the pots with a wire to place anywhere I want, right? Thank you very much, great video!!
That's likely fine.
Thanks! I never now if the difference of Wattage would cause problems or unbalanced outputs, that's my concern.. (if you have any concern I would be happy to know!). Another question, would you suggest myself changing straight to the 10K pots instead, once I will remove those pots to wire them away of the board?
Rene Protti I don't see why not.
Well done
does this also apply to the Breeze amp with one TPA3116?
I couldn't say; my fix applies to this model of board. If it's one of these boards in it, then yes.
ah OK, thanks. I thought maybe you would know because you did a review on the Breeze amp. Oh and my Breeze got the same board in it as yours.
Hi friend, nice video! The TPA3116 is a very good amplifier, but the chinese circuits are strange... I have the amplifier with 3 big capacitors, you have the same as me, you showed him when the video starts from 00:00 so to fix noise in this amplifier board is the same proceduce for both boards? Sorry my bad english...
The boards are very similar but I only touched one of them.
Thanks for the answer friend, i maked the same things in the board with 3 big capacitors and worked! I changed two resistors and jumper one. I don't changed the potentiometer, but the noise reduced, still exist but is not anoying now... Thank you for the help! The proceduce work very well for the both boards.
Have you considered swapping in a genuine TI TPA3116 chip? Would this be worth the time and effort?
I doubt it'd make much of a difference, since the chip pretty much lives up to its spec.
Hi folks! I would like to know if it is possible to mount the tone and volume potentiometers outside the board through wires without making any background noise, I have tried shielded cables and a capacitor to gnd and they decrease noise but always make noise with class d boards. I appreciate any comments.
Hard to say without knowing your specific set-up. Try it!
And one more thing...( as Steve Jobs says :)) As far as I could understand, right and left channels have some sort of filters, hi pass filters. The subwoofer channel have low pass filter. But I don't know exact parameters of that filters, there is no info about that . Can You please somehow measure on what frequency they works?
+Taras Lys The R and L channels don't really have any filters, they're flat down to about 10 Hz.
+FFcossag so we need to use additional hi pass filter before the speakers :( why the hell they use op amps there? And what about sub channel? Is there any low pass filter?
Taras Lys I went through most of the characteristics in my first video about this board, check it out for details. The short answer is yes, but it's retarded.
Excellent video. Good analysis process and solve!
I was wondering why my TPA3118 board generated so much hiss, but only with no signal. There's no agc, so why does the hiss rise when there's no input?
I wouldn't imagine the hiss rises, that sounds like placebo.
@@FFcossag placebo?? The hiss rises on removal of input signal. My personal observation.
I have one that makes the same noise as yours,but It has bluetooth,but from the heatsink and beyond is the same,so can i do this safely without damaging my amp?
If it is identical, sure.
Oh, that's disappointing I just bought one of these thinking it might be superior to the red 2.1 boards with big caps. We'll see how it goes. What is the gain like on these boards.
The chips are configured for 32 dB gain IIRC.
Здравствуйте ,купил точно такой же усилитель с одним конденсатором. Имеется шум , такой же как у вас. Если я вам пришлю фото, вы сможете выделить что нужно заменить. то есть подписать на картинке какие резисторы и что сделать нужно ,спасибо.
Uvgeniy Shishkin
just
Hello, I bought exactly the same amplifier with one capacitor. There is noise, the same as you. If I send you a photo, you can select what you need to replace. that is, to sign on the picture what resistors and what to do, thanks.
I recently bought a 5.1 amplifier from aliexpress, and the same problem happens. I don't know what to do, the noise is unbearable...
Can you please tell me if the first board you put on the side requires the same fix because there’s only one video about that other tpa3116 and the guy who made that video called it out for absolutely awful background noise and I got one except that mine has 3 10k potentiometers not 50k. Maybe we could find a way to communicate......that would help me so much! Thanks in advance!!
I don't think I ever got around to checking out the other board properly.
Well the board I got is actually is the same as the one that you did not tested (with the 3 big capacitors : 25Volts 3300uF) except that mine have 3 potentiometers of 10K (green) instead of 50K (blue)but the rest of the parts look basically the same as the one you've been working on. So I wish I could have an email address or a link to a Facebook page so I could show you 3 very clear pictures of the board without the heat sink you you could see if the same 2 parts have to be switched and a third replaced by a jumper like you showed on your video. I really need this information because I'm working on a boombox that I want to be unique and hopefully without an horrific sound. Thanks!!
Thanks for this video, mate. I have a TPA3116 based 2.1 amplifier which had ridiculous amounts of noise. Thankfully the master / slave was correct but the gain was set to 32dB and was causing lots of hissing. It's now set to 20dB gain and the hiss is reduced greatly.
I'm not sure how to do the pots. I might replace them with resistors where I can. Should I use 50k resistors because that's what the pots were, or should I use 10k like the replacement pots you used?
I have swap places of that two resistors, and replace resistor with a jumper, but I still have that noises. How do You think replacing potentiometers with 10k will help?
+Taras Lys Swapping the resistors and bridging the jumper removes the "screecy" noise. To fix the noise that gets worse when the volume is in the middle position, you need to swap the potentiometers.
+FFcossag Thanks so much for the answer! I'll replace them, and hope it will help.
Have you tried/tested the other board (with three big capacitors)?
Is it about the same, requiring theses fixes or better built?
- still waiting for mine to arrive :( -
+Joaquim Pereira The other board has the same issues, but it also has a MUCH inferior output filter. I think the "3-cap" board is an earlier revision of the "1-cap" board.
+FFcossag That board send to have the filter made in SMD, but I thought it was about the same thing. Glad I bought this one instead... thanks.
+Joaquim Pereira/+FFcossag I have the blue board with the 3 caps and applied the mods sucessfully (see my other comment).
Any ideas on how to improve the output filter? Is it worth to replace the smd-caps on the bottom of the board with through-hole ones? Which values?
hieroben_de
I haven't played with it, but it's usually a good idea to just try and match the filter circuit in the TPA3116 datasheet. All I know is that it's got a really noisy and crappy output compared to the single-cap board.
Does this amplifier have pop issue like most tpa3116 commonly have? If yes, does this method fix this issue? Waiting for your reply
I haven't considered it.
If you wanted to do these kinds of measurents and only had a (cal'd) oscilloscope and voltmeter for bench tools, how would you do it? Some PC software with an external sound card?
+Jernej Jakob You can use a high-end PC sound card with some kind of passive front-end to do pretty OK performance analysis on non-BTL amplifiers. I've done this with VIRTINS Multi-Instrument, and I recommend that software if you can get your hands on it. A scope alone is pretty worthless for measuring distortion and noise in audio circuits, since they don't usually have the resolution to measure the small signal levels involved.
+FFcossag What I'm wondering is how high end a sound card you'd need to, say, measure the distortion with enough precision at like 10 to 20 khz. 48khz isn't going to cut it, I'd say not even 192khz sampling would be enough (you'd only get 8 data points at 20khz), and then you get into a price range where it's just easier and cheaper to get a proper used bench distortion analyser. Is distortion at high frequencies a meaningful parameter, I'd say it is, but do you need to measure it that accurately or am I just overcomplicating things since rare people can even hear a 20khz tone (I know I can't much more than 16... hearing damage does that)
+Jernej Jakob to reply to myself, it seems you can get very good results with a 192khz/24bit sound card in combination with a twin-t active notch filter. measuring distortion down to 0.0001% or below depending on the gear used. source: www.moorepage.net/Twin-T.html
Jernej Jakob I'd say that that twin-T filter is several orders of magnitude overkill for normal audio measurement (interesting as the article might be). As are measurements much above 20 Khz, since they're not going to cause audible issues unless they're symptoms of deeper issues (oscillation, or stuff we see in the amp in the video above). In these cases, however, we're not talking about -100 dB harmonics, but 5 mV signals, so they can usually be detected with a scope.
If you're aiming to measure stuff like power amplifiers and not-super-high-end audio preamps, a 24-bit/192 kHz sound card is more than adequate. Distortion and noise performance of those devices rarely exceed the performance of the ADC in a good sound card. The issue is that you need a front-end for it if you want to measure more than about 2 Vpp, which, if you want accurate ranges, is a relatively complex build. If you furthermore want to measure BTL amplifiers, you need an even more complex front-end to isolate the output of the device under test from your computer's ground.
That said, I've achieved very good results by just using a Xonar DX sound card and two potentiometers for "range switching" (i.e, sacrificing absolute level measurements). If you tune your fundamental test frequency to roughly match the peak input level of the sound card, you basically have 100+ dB of dynamic range to play with from 2 Hz to 50 kHz (performance of the Xonar decreases beyond that point). To put it into perspective, this is the set-up I use for calibrating my HP 339A.
Nice detective work... I guess I'm not alone when it comes to figuring out bad/cheap design problems (of which there's no shortage in these kinds of products) They look at the manufacturers "typical application" schematic (and example board layout), and make a final version product from that... without having any real understanding of what they are doing!
Hmmmm, calibrated snake oil detector. What is used for the calibration standard?
Liked the video - good troubleshooting!
A decent sound card and true-RMS multimeter. Due to the way the 339A works, you don't need very good gear to calibrate it. If it's out-of-cal, it'll just report too much distortion in the really low distortion ranges.
Hi Sorry one last question: Do you have a favourite Bluetooth module? I just tried the M-DIY-BL1200 but it was very bad. I got ground loop noise and then a loud buzz, also intro jingle was deafening.
I'm afraid not, I don't dabble much with that kind of stuff.
@@FFcossag OK thank anyway.
I just checked the datasheet and there it says that the 10k resistor between the two "SYNC" pins should be there.... It's on page 26 of the official TPA3116D2 PDF.
I know, but it doesn't work in this implementation. I don't know why.
Where did you get these 10K potentiometers? I can't find the square types online.
+foorje They're off of Digikey. Here's what I THINK is the exact model I have: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-bi/P092N-QC20AR10K/987-1287-ND/2408864
thanks a bunch
is it okay to say a bunch? hahaha
I'd like to add an update to the mod: I'm using the blue board 2 cap version:
1. I've replaced the four 1uF capacitors from the right with 10uF instead of the one thats shown in the video.
2. I have also replaced two tantalum surface mount 1uF capacitors on the bottom side with 2 x 4.7uF ceramic. These are the input capacitors to the subwoofer amp. Unless you change these, no matter what the roll off frequency is for the active filters, it will still get blocked at the input.For a flat response upto and below 20Hz, these mods will help.
3. I have replaced the four 1uF input capacitors to the L/R stereo with 0.47uF film caps, just to get rid of low frequency content into the stereo. This is only because I am using a separate sub. IF you require a frequency response down to 20Hz, replace these 1uF capacitors with 10uF as well.
Filters resemble whats shown on this page:
techtalk.parts-express.com/filedata/fetch?id=1290801&d=1468700619
* C1,C2,C3,C4,C5,C23 replaced with 10uF. whats not shown in the schematic is the negative input caps.
* C12,C9 replaced with 0.47u
I did a simulation of these on ltspice before making changes. Ofcourse the resistor values shown in the schematic are different to whats on the blue board. I made the changes accordingly.
4. I've replaced the ne5532s with opa2134.
I'm getting some seriously good bass response so far.
The only problem is when the bluetooth relay clicks in there is a ground loop issue and I can hear hissing. When bluetooth relay opens the noise is gone. Any inputs on how to fix this will be helpful.
Thanks.
Hi man, I think you are the one to help me. I have a similar board but mine has 3 big capacitor ( th-cam.com/video/u-JcWJU2v5w/w-d-xo.html ) Have a look. But the problem I have is that mine has the L/R channels running in full range. So what I need is for the satellite to play from 80hz and above. I know if I put a 500uf 50v capacitor to the speaker wire it will do it, but I wanted it to be cut off before amplification so no power is wasted. I believe my board is just like yours on the schematics. Thank you for your attention!
Flavio Gomes. Hi, you cam try replacing the four input caps for the L/R with 150nF. That should give you a cut off in the range of 70-80Hz.
Pravin Iyengar The higher the UF number higher the cut off point?
Which are the four caps on your schematic?
The bigger the capacitor, the more lower frequency it will pass through. its a high pass C-R input into the amplifier. Which is why I reduce the capacitance, to reduce the lower frequency going into the amplifier. So, if you reduce the capacitance from 1micro farad to 150 nano farad, this will limit the minimum frequency to 70Hz+
how do you solder such small SMD resistors?
With a soldering iron.
using a hot air rework station
what have you done to that lolGtech z623 D:
+業餘卡屁 I trash picked a set of them with a really wrecked amplifier board, and now it lives on as the Lågitäck test speakers. "Lågiteäck" is a joke on how Logitech is pronounced in Swedish.
Literally having this exact issue, slightly different board, but same chip
I believe the Chinese have seen your changes to this amp. I bought one recently and they have used the 2.2uf capacitors and they have changed the volume nobs for the 10k ones and i bet they have made the other changes too. Mine sound great. Now, whats the diference between having 3 capacitors rated at 25v 3300uf and only having ones like the amp you have?
Not much difference. More capacitance is better but they have different versions to account for the market at any given time.
Did you fix the problem with the tpa3116 getting hot even though it´s not producing outputting any sound? Mine gets hot to about 45c at idle and ambient temperature at 35c. But when playing music it goes up to 55. Do you consider this ok? At 5:35 you removed a transistor did that solved the issue?
OBS: You have some fans here in Brazil. You are ones of the guys that do a pristine job and explains things in such an easy way to understand. Thank you.
I don't recall mine running very hot. It sounds as if you might have an issue with your chip, a leaky output transistor or something. At 5:35, I remove a resistor and jumper across it instead, it solves a noise issue, not a temperature issue.
FFcossag I hope not. I haven't found any video on the internet so I can't compare with mine. I have seen one of your other videos and that other amp was getting above 100C. Now that room temperature is at 22c with AC on the amp is running at 44c. If you are able to mesure the temperature on yours it would be nice.
At idle, it really should not be getting that hot.
Hei. Jeg prøver på Norsk.
Jeg har en forsterker som bruk 1 stk. TPA3116 Stereo. Jeg kjøpte meg en lyd spiller module som spiller mp3. Wav. Flac å som har sd kort. AUX. Bluetooth og fm radio?
Jeg fikk mye digital støy å fikk det ikke bort. Til slutt fikk jeg hjelp av sellgeren å måtte først ta vekk 0 ohm AGND motstand på spilleren som er disital GND å da ble mye av støyen borte. Så fant jeg ut at forsterker å lyd spiller ikke kan ha samme powersupply GND kobla sammen.
Nå bruker jeg 2 stk. Power suply å forsterker og lyd spilleren sin GND er ikke koblet sammen. Muligens du sliter med det samme? Prøv sepparat power supply å kobl telefonen til forsterkeren. Virker som du har støy på lyd inngangen.
Du kan sette en resistor over signal å gnd men da kortslutter du bort noe å du må ha høyere lyd på inngangen. Du gir forsterkeren svakere signal å støy som kommer inb blir lavere men ikke borte. Du må ha 200 ohm for å få vekk alt å da blir lyd signaler alt for svakt!
I have this board in Bluetooth model but under at basically the same components descriptions (tpa3116) and my board's potenciometers are 5k ohms and my board have the same awful noise floor when conect in Bluetooth Chanel. When conected at p2 Chanel all the sound is Very clear. May I solve my problem doing the same corrections as you have showed? Thank you
No, that's just a shitty BT module.
Is there something similar to this that doesn't require mods to improve the noise floor?
So..... a mod that doesn't require mods huh...
lmfao!
Mark Emmerton pretty sure he or she means a cheap amp that doesn't require a mod to sound good. It is a bit frustrating that all of them benefit from swapped caps or pots or resistors or whatever. It would be nice to know if anyone has a tip for a currently available amp like this that works great out of the box.
Sounds like an aerial ambient sound of an snes game
Can you give pictures of board for changes, thanks a lot
Alas, I didn't take any pictures, but you should be able to work with still frames from the video.
ok, can you say "Swap the two gain resistors (39K and 100K, under the heatsink) of ONE of the TPA3116 chips." to change with what?
and
Bridge the 10K resistor by pin 16 of the left TPA3116 with a jumper. this one just connect with wire?
thanks
Swap as in swap. Change places. And yes.
Did work great, thanks a lot
Could this be the quality of the power supply used?
Watt rms for this? @ 4 ohms load?
at 24v, 40w would be a good number.
Before I start i wanted to buy some spare 39k & 100k resistors in case i ruin some while soldering - i'm new at this. can someone link to suitable part #'s for me? i tried looking up 100k and 39k smd resistors but there are so many hundreds i dont know how to drill down and get the right ones... I bought 2 of these amps - identical except they have the bluetooth 4.0 board as well. Same noise issues, hoping to fix it or these amps are useless.
Anything 0603 is fine.
thank you - still about 80 choices....wattage rating matter at all? 0.1w, 0.125 0.2w, 0.25w?
Tolerance? .05%, .1%, 1%, 5%?
thick film/thin film? i'm such a noob. thank you
None of it matters for this, don't worry.
I got in the 0603 resistors and they are way smaller than the ones on the board - just a warning so nobody else buys them. No matter, re-using the existing ones worked fine this time. thank you again - i now have 2 working amps!
Hi I have just had one of these boards and fitted it in to my boombox. It is way better than my last TPA3116 2.1 board, a lot louder, although sound is a little muddy (I will get used to that).
Question: Is the 2200uf input cap big enough? I note you other board has 3 of these. My other boards have around 3300uf per chip.
2200 µF is fine.
@@FFcossag I added in another 4600uf that I had spare and I think it helped.
Ha!
Calibrated snake oil detector .
Thanks for the fix
What sense to replace sync resistor to solder bridge? According datasheet, sync pins should be connected thru 10k resistor.
It should, but it clearly doesn't work right in this implementation.
Anyway I prefer to install lower resistor(1k, may be 100 ohm), than bridge. If both IC starts as master with bridge you easily can get short circuit trough ICs.
By the way, did you try to set highest avaliable gain? Does it make sense to do that?
Also I wondering what difference(in sound, quality, schematic) between board with one input capacitor and board with three input capacitors? I have version with three.
These go really noisy at high gain. I tried a few different resistors prior to just doing the short, only the short worked well. Could be an issue due to these amps probably using reject trash chips.
Finally I fixed my amplifier. All as in this video, but replaced all potentiometers to 10k and install 47 Ohm resistor instead solder bridge. All works!
By the way, if you have 3D printer, you can make case for this amplifier that I made: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789751
Är du från Sverige?
+POZE GAMING Finland :) Im pretty sure he mentioned it in another video :)
0:33 The black wind howls
so why didn't you change the potentiometer first rather than change the resistors surely the 40 drop would have made the biggest diffrence
I tried shorting the inputs of the chips, and the noise was still present. Hence the issue was not related to the potentiometer.
so why didnt you use a resitor across the potentiometer rather than swapping it out
Tony Greenall
That would cause the volume control to not work very well, since your adjustment range is such a high resistance compared to the static resistors across the pot.
maybe so i have just ordered that board and can see a better way of modifying the board to get rid of the interference as i am using it for my speaker build so electrical interference will play a big part of it as its going to be for my hf radio
Tony Greenall
Good luck!
So, when I get a little bored of all the numbers, my eyes wander off the needle and I see @7:30, "Calibrated Snake Oil Detector". LOL!! All us techies have a sense of humor.
'CALIBRATED SNAKE OIL DETECTOR' 🤣
I have an similar issue with an similar amp board. Mine has a 2.1 speaker output configuration and here the bass output makes also an awful noise. This is my board: www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01INEIXNA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Do you have an idea how to solve the problem? Should I also change the Poti? The Bass Poti is a 10kOhm one and the L an R potis are 50kOhm.
I really can't speak for any other boards than the ones I've tested.
Friend, What would be your recommendation of the best board Tpa3116 2.1 50Wx2 + 100W available in the market that emits no hissing/buzzing while idle and even playing sound?? I bought a Douk Audio HiFi TPA3116 Bluetooth 4.0 Digital Amplifier 2.1 that emitted an extremely annoying buzzing and I can not find any of the same specifications that do not have criticism about this problem. Thank you so much!!
31 people came looking for cat videos
Is this the TPA3116 2.1 or TPA3116 with the hiss?
www.ebay.ca/itm/111791974460?
is it like this one?
Instead of changing the whole Volume Control, just place two 10K resistors (one per channel) across the existing pot..... SAME EFFECT/Cheaper !!!!!
can i use 20k resistor?
Коротко, что нужно сделать (shorty, wat to do):th-cam.com/video/16k4goWRT4o/w-d-xo.html
LAGITACK..lol
LÅGITÄCK.
Какие дросселя огромные, не то что нам Китайцы шлют
can you help with this amp.?
Problem: Main volume potentiometer came off with inner contacts.
How can I solder new potentiometer?
ibb.co/eoU9TF
ibb.co/iNigav
ibb.co/j49yNa
I guess the subwoofer output has bridged channels, is it possible or advisable to connect a 4Ohm subwoofer? There are not so many 8Ohm subwoofer speakers availble.
It's in parallel, you can use down to 2 ohm speakers as long as you manage to keep it cool.
Found measurement of original filter which is 12dB steepness:
www.diy-hifi-forum.eu/forum/showpost.php?p=133682&postcount=9
Yours should be 80hz crossover frequency i think (-6dB), would be interesting how to calculate values in order to set a specifiy crossover frequency.