One of the best woodworking educators on youtube. I've been woodworking for a decade and I am learning some gems from each one of these 'prerequisite' videos. Woodworking is a practice wherein humility is an especially valuable asset. Thanks for the great content!
25 years slinging chips (albeit new to turning), learn something new every day. Watch a Worth The Effort video and it’s guaranteed to be a few more. Greatly appreciated!
You are a fantastic teacher. No crappy music, no useless info, and a personality that makes it easy to listen to you. I think you should have 168 million not a 168K subscribers.
Kind of surprising to see a guy that loves chisels so much he could go on 38 minutes talking about them. More surprising, he got me to watch the whole thing! 😄
I am on my 2nd video. I am building my work bench today. It is my 2nd one. I am just doing what I know to get a decent bench and then I am going to follow your lessons. Thank you and I hope you are well.
To be fair, the manufacturer of that 4-in-1 Woodchuck tool says the rough part on the bar is a rasp, so it's allowed to be softer than a file since it's only ever meant to cut wood (not steel). By the way, I LOVE your videos! They are some of the most educational woodworking videos I've ever seen. I liken them to Alton Brown's "Good Eats" cooking show. If you're not familiar, Good Eats doesn't just focus on telling you how to cook something, it also explains WHY you do it that way, which allows the student to gain enough knowledge to make their own decisions without just following a recipe. Your educational videos are like that. Great job!
As someone planning his retirement hobby as a wood turner and who has always appreciated fine wood working in general, I am in the process of educating myself in the various “basics” of woodworking and shop issues in general. Been watching your vids over the past couple of months and find the material informative and useful. Although I subscribe to several You Tube channels for both education and inspiration, not to mention reading plenty of excellent books on everything from turning fundamentals to tool selection to sharpening to dust control, etc., etc., I find your vids are well thought out and presented (as an educator would). I look forward to more in the “prerequisite series” as I learned plenty in the first 2. Keep up the good work!
Research does pay off, and reading reviews from several sources gives me a better understanding of a tools true performance. I've watched several of your other videos and learned techniques and tips that will really help me a lot. Basic fence and gate repair projects are on my agenda this spring, as well as the shelving project for inside the shop. So many thanks!
The UK adopted the metric system as standard a few decades ago. I do have tools for both imperial and metric, but rarely find a use for imperial. We still use imperial system for some things, such as traffic; miles / MPH, not kilometres like other European countries. Really enjoying your videos. Thanks!
I really like how you share other TH-camrs info, like James Wright. You are the best kind of TH-camr. James did do an excellent spreadsheet comparison of the various chisel brands. Everyone should listen to his video explaining the thought process & the spreadsheet.
A "London pattern" octagonal handle is the best chisel handle ive ever felt. The octagonal registers beautifully in the hand, the waisted bulb near the ferrule is perfect for thumb and finger when paring, and itll never roll off the bench. I have changed all my chisel handles to this type, I love em :)
I started woodworking in the late '90s with New Yankee Woodshop as my only learning resource. Then, due to a severe work injury and life stuff, I had to put woodworking on hold. I bought a 4 piece set of the Marples Blue Chip chisels back in the day. They have the silver logo, and the white ring on the bottom of the handle. I've been watching TH-cam channels like yours for a while, and I've bought some books. I'm hoping to get my tools set up in my basement soon so I can start woodworking again. Thanks for providing such a great resource. BTW, there are a lot of those vintage Marples chisels on eBay. New, used, individuals, and sets. You can get an NOS 4 piece set for about $130.
I don't usually comment on videos. I've done a little woodworking over the last 40 years. Bought my first Craftsman table saw in 1979. But I've been out of the hobby for way too long. I've got a set of the Marples chisels I bought in the early 2000s. I could see one of those in the video thumbnail, so I watched. I thought it was a video about wood chisels for beginners. Wow, I'm more confused than before the video. It was a good video for people with 5 or 10 years in the hobby. But beginners need a recommendation on what to buy.
The "generational changes" you describe are definitely present in every industry. You sold Bikes, look at Harley and how their products have changed over time. Same is true in the firearms industry. The iconic Winchester Model 94, Pre 1964 is a completely different animal than the post 64 units when they switched from all machined parts to using a lot of stamped parts. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts and insights. I'm very much enjoying the series. They are a bit long for my taste, but worth the time to watch.
Hi from Spain. I just want to thank you alot for your "Prerequisite Course" and "Teacher notes" videos. Last years I had a good oportunity and became a newbie wood working teacher so I found your videos very usefully. As you already know it is not the same to know how to use a tool or a technic rather than teach that. I will be waiting for next video!!.
The first tool I want in my arsenal is a combination belt sander/disc sander. I've already researched and determined I want a Bucktool with the 6" disc. To stay within budget I lose out on the larger 8" disc, but it's only $20-$30 more than the basic design of all the other brands that all use a 6" disc (Ryobi/Wen/Skil/Shop Fox) that are all the same design. It's direct drive vs belt. It can withstand more pressure being applied without the belt sander slipping or seizing. Its a better value than others that are nearly identical, like Porter Cable or Jet. I plan on using it for a variety of items, but a key one is for making handmade fishing lures.
I have not yet developed the skills for dovetail making, but I use to clean up mortise and for cleaning up dado, and some pairing... I have the blue handle Irwin Marples.. got the set at a FLEA MARKET for 25 bucks and I think that was the key , although some of them were great and others needed fixing they are the older ones that say Sheffield if you look very closely right on the steel instead of China. So folks..keep your eyes open at flea markets and yard sales ! I am very happy with them ! Thank you for making this video and explaining important differences. I will purchase a couple quality slim ones if I start trying dovetails :-) Great insight you have thanks for sharing.
I Never make Uniformed choices when it comes to tools. Consultation with people who use the equipment I am after has led me down the path of buying what I needed not just what I thought I’d like to have .... in a pinch a cheap tool regularly sharpened has got me through a situation or two ....
Loving this beginner concept. Please, please, please provide an instructional video about planners. I know it’s purpose, but how does it accomplish its task. It obviously does the job very well but I can’t comprehend how it knows what is flat.
I'm very glad I found your series. Even as a little girl, I knew I wanted a work shop. Now I can have one, and your series is making this process easier(safer). I bought a JET lathe 1015, and I'm planning on buying a faceplate for turning bowls, but I'm uncertain about which faceplate I should get. Is there a good one to start with? The lathe is a wholly new tool for me, I worked as a carpenter in the theater, but lathe work was never needed in show production, so I'm a total newbie on this.
Faceplates are pretty generic. You're lathe came with one new. You might call whom you bought it from to see if they still have it. I don't use them. See my video on chucks. If buying a chuck would be more useful.
The Narex chisels are a tremendous value for the money. I have quite a few, including two that are my primary dovetail chisels. I am evaluating which chisels I use the most and plan to get really nice one from Veritas or Lie-Nielsen.
Sliding Bevel Gauges. A handtool tool used to set and copy angles. Accuracy is the most important aspect of the tool. A strong locking mechanism, with clean, straight lines, on solid material. The blade(not used for any cutting) that moves should be able to be locked down to copy, and transfer angles. So making this out of metal is standard, and steel is a good choice. The body often is steel or brass in the locking area, in combination with decorative material for aesthetics. The locking mechanism is traditionally a nut than can be hand turned to lock the blade in place. A more modern locking mechanism at the bottom of the body allows for locking the device from any orientation, streamling the tool. A good quality tool should not be expensive. Paying more is mostly for aesthetics, as robust material is not pricey. If you are looking for an upgrade there are digital sliding bevel. These provide more information, displaying the angle, allowing you to set angles, as well as transfering angles. This effectively combines a traditional sliding bevel with other tools like protractor.
I know I've said this before but as a retired teacher I can see that you have the right stuff to teach, not just present. I enjoy learning from you because you know how to give just the right amount of detail without causing confusion and in the correct sequence to build on. Question: With the loose handles, do you hold the steel when you hit the handle on the bench to secure it or is it just the hitting action that secures the handle? I watched that part a few times and couldn't figure it out. Thanks.
Supposedly you just hit the wood. But ardent users of that style resort to things like hairspray, paint, epoxy and what not to keep them together. Not my favorite style of handle.
@@wortheffort the only real pluses I see to the socket chisel is ease of replacement and that you can make different handles for different needs. Just like you said in the video.
Enjoyed this vid. One point I might question was about that multi tool, chisel, and file. It is possible to harden the file part, then anneal just the chisel portion separating the two sections with a heat sink. This may not be the case with the tool you displayed, I'm just saying it is possible, possible even to do it yourself. I can't see wanting a file/chisel myself, especially not a rasp as it appeared to be. Would not be comfortable to use as a chisel. I've been watching a lot of your video's recently, new to wood working myself. I particularly like they way you go into minor details.
I enjoy watching your videos and get quite a bit of education out of them with the background in woodworking in various other hobbies and jobs I understand what you’re saying. Had a question of do you have a video to make a working platform for a bandsaw I came into a bandsaw and the table was broke off of it it’s a 9 inch 1/3 hp craftsman benchtop bandsaw if you have any suggestions on where I can find a replacement Or how to make one that would be awesome thanks and keep up the awesome videos working on convincing my wife to let me get a wood lathe so I can get back into turning
As for the bandsaw table, get the model/item number off of the tool and look on Sears' website. If they don't have what you need available any more, take their part number from the parts diagram and search eBay, Craigslist, etc... sources. Chexk and see if the cost of repair is close enough to buying a newer (to you/used) bandsaw that fits your needs.
I want to utilize my drawknife called a draw shave from the manufacturer to cut spoons from greenwood. I also would like to make lumber using only hand tools for now from fallen tree limbs and small logs that I encounter occasionally when out and about. My drawknife is coated in a waxy oily greyish substance and I wasn't sure what other people did. Use as is? Should I remove it before sharpening? It is impossible to scrape off. You can't flatten the back because of the coating...imagine taking it to my wet grinder? The manufacturer doesn't even mention the tool treatment or what to do with it. The instructor at a fine woodworking class was also stumped. Finally a customer from an online search identified the spray on coating as Cosmoline, used by the military to coat army surplus guns as a rust preventative in long term storage. Who knew? I want the drawknife to be easy to use and sharpen, hard enough to hold a edge after dealing with some gnarly tree bark. Hopefully I bought one the right length (straight, 10") for my build and strength. I am short (approx. 5' with only a little change).
I would like to buy a doweling jig. This would improve my joinery results & skills. I will be using it at my new outfeed/assembly table for table tops, legs, skirts ect... * self centering * multiple dowel size options * more than only one application design * durable construction * affordable
I was happily watching your video...and then BOOM! You drop a homework bomb on me. Ok fine, but its a little off subject. I have a porcupine problem. Porcupines eat WOOD...like half of my shed. ☆I would like a "tool" for safely picking up porcupines. And don't say "have a heart trap". • it should have water and food feeders inside • a shade tarp • chewproof • safe to handle/easy to set • have an app that alerts you when porky is in trap
I guess, technically, I was researching my "homework" tool when I found your channel? (Even though this is a tool that I expect to have to build/make myself, not buy) Here goes: I would like to get (build?) a work bench that is modular and collapse-able enough to be able to transport in a compact car, but large enough and sturdy enough to be useful at a few different home remodeling locations I'm currently committed to. -While hand woodworking is not anticipated to be the primary use of this tool, it shouldn't be excluded from doing small planing, mitering, or trim operations, and should have work-holding options compatible with such as needed. -It has to be light enough in sections, to be practical for use by my wife to set up and take down, and preferably adjustable in height enough that both of us can use it effectively when needed (there's 15" difference in our heights). -It needs to be sturdy enough to take whatever abuse it has to suffer, and still be stable. -It should be durable enough to not require repair or rebuild more often than the remodel jobs we use it on. -It should be cost-effective without being so "cheap" that we'd have been better off without it... Now I can go to the next video in the series, although I'm not really a "Beginning woodworker" (My wife is showing an interest in woodworking, so I'm trying to educate and encourage her - it splits up the costs of tools!) ;-)
Some steels quench in water, some quench in oil. There are also steels that quench in air. The simplified explanation is that when heated the carbon atoms move to different locations than when the steel was cold. When quenched, the carbon atoms are frozen in the positions they took when heated. This is makes it hard. The “freezing” action is called the gate. Air, oil, and water quench steels have different gates. Water harden has the shortest gate. In other words, it must be cooled the fastest. Cobalt put in the steel makes it able to stay hard when it gets hot. This is called “high speed” steel. It can get much sharper than carbide, but will not stay as sharp as long as the carbide will. 12% chrome is needed to make steel stainless. The chrome rusts before the iron does, and forms a covering to hide the iron from oxygen.
Would you recommend at least two sets? One for beater bench chisels and a second for fine woodworking like joinery? As for the homework... I would like to aquire/make a forge, to use in my shop, for making my own tools from the steel/s of my choice. -It should have a ribbon burner -it should have a completely removeable back so that a second, third, or fourth forge can be added for longer tools or even swords should my interests lean in that direction in the future. -It must be propane powered -it must include either the required blower for such an aperature or easy to follow directions to attach one. -temperature controls via a thermocouple/thermostat with a digital read-out would be a major plus so that it can be used for getting as close as possible to the heat I need for forging, welding, and tempering of the tools to be made. -A side access door may not be a requirement, but could be helpful and useful for smaller tools and implements access.
Everyone needs some beater chisels for tasks you do not want to use your good chisels on. I round the corners on my beaters too. But I do keep them pretty sharp. I want them to be able to do the chisel thing. I was using one yesterday to scrape rust off a utility knife I found in my crawl space. The beaters see a lot of use around the shop.
The modern inch is the US Customary inch. The empire adopted the US Customary standard in 1835. The old Imperial inch was 2.5 cm. Or 3 barley corns end to end. A modern inch is 2.54 cm. So slightly different. Recently I assembled a set of chisels for myself here out of odds and ends and I noticed that most of the chisels I had were not exactly any uniform inch size. I do not have any new chisels either. They were all made before global metrification. It is woodworking so close enough is close enough.
@@wortheffort I worked in a tool and die shop and made instruments accurate to 0.00005 (not a typo that is half a ten thousandth) of an inch. So I'd say it is good enough. At that scale everything is pretty esoteric inch or metric.
For the past month or so I've been trying to research the best tool to help me determine flatness. I am looking for a straight edge not to long not to short, around 2 feet. I want the base wide enough so it can stand on its own. I'm not sure if I will be ok with a cheap $20 24" level, or if I should jump up to specifically a $50 stabila 24" level/measuring stick.
@@wortheffort that would depend on your level of OCD, a common "disorder" among wood and metal workers and other crafts-people. The Stabila would be much more planer (accuritely ground) than most cheap levels. Bare in mind that even a small bump or drop can throw off the squareness or flatness of any aluminium level. An antique wooden Stanley with brass edges would take more abuse, but the movement of the wood due to humidity and or wetness would make it less accurite. Search a tool supplier for a "straight edge" if that is what you really need.
I was thinking the same thing. Depends on you oarticular needs. Think about what you want to make, what size your bowls or spindle work will be. How much detail you would like to be able to do. Weather you plan on hard or soft wood as you primary medium, or even resin/epoxy work. I have heard many turners say a 5/8" deep valley bowl gouge is their primary tool, but this could limit how small and deep your decorative details could be. Also, the 5/8 would be serious overkill for items like fine finial work like what Cindy Drozda does. While the bowl gouge can perform differently for many tasks, it ia not really the best tool for many things. An eventual collection of multiple tools will expand your skill and capabilities. Another primary tool that can do a lot of different tasks is the skew chisel. For beginners the skew can be an interesting tool to master as it can get catches more than a gouge for the typical beginner. Watch many channels by searching (how to use a "enter tool name here"). Check out some or all of these channels... -Capt. Eddie Castilin -Mike Waldt -the Wyoming Woodturner And for some insight amd inspiration, -the blind wood turner.
I cannot believe that 4 in 1 tool exists. I wanna know what kind of person would buy that. Like, if you are doing chiseling and filing in the first place, you would already know that tool is laughably bad. Maybe someone extremely naive would buy it as a gift because they wouldn't know any better. I'd hate to be on the receiving end of that
It is not a bad tool for a handyman that has to carry all of their tools to a site. 50 pounds is a lot better to lug around than 100 pounds is. So you want tools that can do multiple tasks.
Meat cleaver for cutting an onion? I guess it is technically a knife, but not typically one used for vegetables. Yeah, dull knives are way more dangerous, just like woodworking tools, but if I turn all of my kitchen knives into razor-sharp edges, then my wife is constantly cutting herself. I have tried to show her the proper way to use a knife, but with her learning disability she just doesn't get it. As is, she has a reasonably sharp but not razor sharp pearing knife, and refuses to touch my knives which can all shave an elephant (some of the toughest hair out there). My kitchen knives, that she refuses to use, can cut a tomato just laying the knife on them and adding maybe 5 pounds of pressure over their weight, with extremely little sawing action. One draw of the knife can cut a thin slice of onion with no arguement from the onion.
@@thomasarussellsr Oh ya i'm the same way with my good knives. I refine the edge to a mirror finish. I was previously breaking down some chicken and just transitioned to veggies. 90% of the time it's fine. Guess I learned the hard way, it's not fine.
Sorry but I wouldn't buy those Grotesquely, with a capital letter, overpriced PMV chisels! I'd buy a much better excellent quality vintage chisel, Swan, original Stanley even the old Fulton's are excellent! The only plastic handled chisel I would have are the Stanley construction chisels! I wouldn't use a plastic handle for joinery work. I'll take classic tools over modern any day! The prices for the boutique tools is just STUPID ridiculous when you can do the same thing with a good quality vintage tool. There's a line and I won't cross it !!! You go for it, I'll save my money and do exactly the same thing !
Gabe Smith is disagree in PC. They’ve been sent down market. Only things like the 890 router which have endured from before buyout seem heavy duty and even there they’ve started cutting corners. Really shocked they didn’t leave that above dewalt.
@@gabesmith6475 DeWalt is a subsidiary brand of Black and Decker. B&D is the Stanley of power tools. They buy brands and just crap them up. Everything is made in some factory in the far east today anyways. So I don't know what matters anymore.
One of the best woodworking educators on youtube. I've been woodworking for a decade and I am learning some gems from each one of these 'prerequisite' videos. Woodworking is a practice wherein humility is an especially valuable asset. Thanks for the great content!
25 years slinging chips (albeit new to turning), learn something new every day. Watch a Worth The Effort video and it’s guaranteed to be a few more. Greatly appreciated!
You are a fantastic teacher. No crappy music, no useless info, and a personality that makes it easy to listen to you. I think you should have 168 million not a 168K subscribers.
Kind of surprising to see a guy that loves chisels so much he could go on 38 minutes talking about them. More surprising, he got me to watch the whole thing! 😄
I am on my 2nd video. I am building my work bench today. It is my 2nd one. I am just doing what I know to get a decent bench and then I am going to follow your lessons. Thank you and I hope you are well.
Your point of view is very interesting and you come up with great insight that I have never thought of.
Just discovered your channel and loving this older educational content. 😊
To be fair, the manufacturer of that 4-in-1 Woodchuck tool says the rough part on the bar is a rasp, so it's allowed to be softer than a file since it's only ever meant to cut wood (not steel). By the way, I LOVE your videos! They are some of the most educational woodworking videos I've ever seen. I liken them to Alton Brown's "Good Eats" cooking show. If you're not familiar, Good Eats doesn't just focus on telling you how to cook something, it also explains WHY you do it that way, which allows the student to gain enough knowledge to make their own decisions without just following a recipe. Your educational videos are like that. Great job!
you are a fine educator, great series, thanks so much!
So grateful for you wisdom and knowledge
As someone planning his retirement hobby as a wood turner and who has always appreciated fine wood working in general, I am in the process of educating myself in the various “basics” of woodworking and shop issues in general. Been watching your vids over the past couple of months and find the material informative and useful. Although I subscribe to several You Tube channels for both education and inspiration, not to mention reading plenty of excellent books on everything from turning fundamentals to tool selection to sharpening to dust control, etc., etc., I find your vids are well thought out and presented (as an educator would). I look forward to more in the “prerequisite series” as I learned plenty in the first 2. Keep up the good work!
Be sure to check out "Turn your first bowl" and "4 Cuts" as it covers a lot of entry stuff.
Research does pay off, and reading reviews from several sources gives me a better understanding of a tools true performance. I've watched several of your other videos and learned techniques and tips that will really help me a lot. Basic fence and gate repair projects are on my agenda this spring, as well as the shelving project for inside the shop.
So many thanks!
The UK adopted the metric system as standard a few decades ago. I do have tools for both imperial and metric, but rarely find a use for imperial. We still use imperial system for some things, such as traffic; miles / MPH, not kilometres like other European countries.
Really enjoying your videos. Thanks!
Thank you for the thoughtfulness and generosity you put into all of your videos.
Big Fan.
Thank you,
-CY Castor
Fascinating, as usual. Love the way you explore a topic, and share it with the rest of us.
Thanks
I really like how you share other TH-camrs info, like James Wright. You are the best kind of TH-camr. James did do an excellent spreadsheet comparison of the various chisel brands. Everyone should listen to his video explaining the thought process & the spreadsheet.
Thanks
Very useful video indeed. This is the first time I have ever heard such great and useful information about chisels. Thank you.
A "London pattern" octagonal handle is the best chisel handle ive ever felt. The octagonal registers beautifully in the hand, the waisted bulb near the ferrule is perfect for thumb and finger when paring, and itll never roll off the bench. I have changed all my chisel handles to this type, I love em :)
I started woodworking in the late '90s with New Yankee Woodshop as my only learning resource. Then, due to a severe work injury and life stuff, I had to put woodworking on hold. I bought a 4 piece set of the Marples Blue Chip chisels back in the day. They have the silver logo, and the white ring on the bottom of the handle. I've been watching TH-cam channels like yours for a while, and I've bought some books. I'm hoping to get my tools set up in my basement soon so I can start woodworking again. Thanks for providing such a great resource. BTW, there are a lot of those vintage Marples chisels on eBay. New, used, individuals, and sets. You can get an NOS 4 piece set for about $130.
You got the good ones.
Great video, so informative, new subscriber and enjoying every minute.
I don't usually comment on videos. I've done a little woodworking over the last 40 years. Bought my first Craftsman table saw in 1979. But I've been out of the hobby for way too long. I've got a set of the Marples chisels I bought in the early 2000s. I could see one of those in the video thumbnail, so I watched. I thought it was a video about wood chisels for beginners. Wow, I'm more confused than before the video. It was a good video for people with 5 or 10 years in the hobby. But beginners need a recommendation on what to buy.
The "generational changes" you describe are definitely present in every industry. You sold Bikes, look at Harley and how their products have changed over time.
Same is true in the firearms industry. The iconic Winchester Model 94, Pre 1964 is a completely different animal than the post 64 units when they switched from all machined parts to using a lot of stamped parts.
Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts and insights. I'm very much enjoying the series. They are a bit long for my taste, but worth the time to watch.
Very informative.
Hi from Spain. I just want to thank you alot for your "Prerequisite Course" and "Teacher notes" videos. Last years I had a good oportunity and became a newbie wood working teacher so I found your videos very usefully. As you already know it is not the same to know how to use a tool or a technic rather than teach that. I will be waiting for next video!!.
Thanks
The first tool I want in my arsenal is a combination belt sander/disc sander. I've already researched and determined I want a Bucktool with the 6" disc.
To stay within budget I lose out on the larger 8" disc, but it's only $20-$30 more than the basic design of all the other brands that all use a 6" disc (Ryobi/Wen/Skil/Shop Fox) that are all the same design. It's direct drive vs belt. It can withstand more pressure being applied without the belt sander slipping or seizing. Its a better value than others that are nearly identical, like Porter Cable or Jet.
I plan on using it for a variety of items, but a key one is for making handmade fishing lures.
This series is a great idea I have learned a lot from you over the last few years you are a great teacher
Thanks
I have not yet developed the skills for dovetail making, but I use to clean up mortise and for cleaning up dado, and some pairing... I have the blue handle Irwin Marples.. got the set at a FLEA MARKET for 25 bucks and I think that was the key , although some of them were great and others needed fixing they are the older ones that say Sheffield if you look very closely right on the steel instead of China. So folks..keep your eyes open at flea markets and yard sales ! I am very happy with them ! Thank you for making this video and explaining important differences. I will purchase a couple quality slim ones if I start trying dovetails :-) Great insight you have thanks for sharing.
Saw to a line is the only skill you need to DT. It's kinda like drawing in the line as a kindergardener. A skill quickly developed.
I Never make Uniformed choices when it comes to tools. Consultation with people who use the equipment I am after has led me down the path of buying what I needed not just what I thought I’d like to have .... in a pinch a cheap tool regularly sharpened has got me through a situation or two ....
Sharp solves most issues.
I need a try square for accurate measurements on my small projects.
1. It needs to be square.
2. Overall size. I need a small
Loving this beginner concept. Please, please, please provide an instructional video about planners. I know it’s purpose, but how does it accomplish its task. It obviously does the job very well but I can’t comprehend how it knows what is flat.
Already have a few out there. You'll just need to google it.
Great information. Thank you
You make the best, most educational videos for a nube like me. Thanks and regards from pakistan
Thanks
I'm very glad I found your series. Even as a little girl, I knew I wanted a work shop. Now I can have one, and your series is making this process easier(safer). I bought a JET lathe 1015, and I'm planning on buying a faceplate for turning bowls, but I'm uncertain about which faceplate I should get. Is there a good one to start with? The lathe is a wholly new tool for me, I worked as a carpenter in the theater, but lathe work was never needed in show production, so I'm a total newbie on this.
Faceplates are pretty generic. You're lathe came with one new. You might call whom you bought it from to see if they still have it. I don't use them. See my video on chucks. If buying a chuck would be more useful.
Very interesting background knowledge on various types of steel - thank. Your video a good supplement to a book I bought on the subject by Ron Hock
Ron's book is one I recommend.
The Narex chisels are a tremendous value for the money. I have quite a few, including two that are my primary dovetail chisels. I am evaluating which chisels I use the most and plan to get really nice one from Veritas or Lie-Nielsen.
Sliding Bevel Gauges.
A handtool tool used to set and copy angles.
Accuracy is the most important aspect of the tool. A strong locking mechanism, with clean, straight lines, on solid material.
The blade(not used for any cutting) that moves should be able to be locked down to copy, and transfer angles. So making this out of metal is standard, and steel is a good choice. The body often is steel or brass in the locking area, in combination with decorative material for aesthetics.
The locking mechanism is traditionally a nut than can be hand turned to lock the blade in place. A more modern locking mechanism at the bottom of the body allows for locking the device from any orientation, streamling the tool.
A good quality tool should not be expensive. Paying more is mostly for aesthetics, as robust material is not pricey. If you are looking for an upgrade there are digital sliding bevel. These provide more information, displaying the angle, allowing you to set angles, as well as transfering angles. This effectively combines a traditional sliding bevel with other tools like protractor.
Good one
I know I've said this before but as a retired teacher I can see that you have the right stuff to teach, not just present. I enjoy learning from you because you know how to give just the right amount of detail without causing confusion and in the correct sequence to build on. Question: With the loose handles, do you hold the steel when you hit the handle on the bench to secure it or is it just the hitting action that secures the handle? I watched that part a few times and couldn't figure it out. Thanks.
Supposedly you just hit the wood. But ardent users of that style resort to things like hairspray, paint, epoxy and what not to keep them together. Not my favorite style of handle.
@@wortheffort Thank you, keep up the great work. It'd really worth the effort.
@@wortheffort the only real pluses I see to the socket chisel is ease of replacement and that you can make different handles for different needs. Just like you said in the video.
It's always worth the time to watch your videos . any updates on the new shop ?
Thanks
Great video, thanks again and looking forward to the challenge.
Thanks
Enjoyed this vid. One point I might question was about that multi tool, chisel, and file. It is possible to harden the file part, then anneal just the chisel portion separating the two sections with a heat sink. This may not be the case with the tool you displayed, I'm just saying it is possible, possible even to do it yourself. I can't see wanting a file/chisel myself, especially not a rasp as it appeared to be. Would not be comfortable to use as a chisel.
I've been watching a lot of your video's recently, new to wood working myself. I particularly like they way you go into minor details.
Chisels get shorter with sharpening. You’d have to do the process many times doting life of chisel.
@@wortheffort Good point.
I enjoy watching your videos and get quite a bit of education out of them with the background in woodworking in various other hobbies and jobs I understand what you’re saying. Had a question of do you have a video to make a working platform for a bandsaw I came into a bandsaw and the table was broke off of it it’s a 9 inch 1/3 hp craftsman benchtop bandsaw if you have any suggestions on where I can find a replacement Or how to make one that would be awesome thanks and keep up the awesome videos working on convincing my wife to let me get a wood lathe so I can get back into turning
As for the bandsaw table, get the model/item number off of the tool and look on Sears' website. If they don't have what you need available any more, take their part number from the parts diagram and search eBay, Craigslist, etc... sources.
Chexk and see if the cost of repair is close enough to buying a newer (to you/used) bandsaw that fits your needs.
I want to utilize my drawknife called a draw shave from the manufacturer to cut spoons from greenwood. I also would like to make lumber using only hand tools for now from fallen tree limbs and small logs that I encounter occasionally when out and about. My drawknife is coated in a waxy oily greyish substance and I wasn't sure what other people did. Use as is? Should I remove it before sharpening? It is impossible to scrape off. You can't flatten the back because of the coating...imagine taking it to my wet grinder? The manufacturer doesn't even mention the tool treatment or what to do with it. The instructor at a fine woodworking class was also stumped. Finally a customer from an online search identified the spray on coating as Cosmoline, used by the military to coat army surplus guns as a rust preventative in long term storage. Who knew? I want the drawknife to be easy to use and sharpen, hard enough to hold a edge after dealing with some gnarly tree bark. Hopefully I bought one the right length (straight, 10") for my build and strength. I am short (approx. 5' with only a little change).
Thanks. You are the best👍
Thanks
I would like to buy a doweling jig. This would improve my joinery results & skills. I will be using it at my new outfeed/assembly table for table tops, legs, skirts ect... * self centering * multiple dowel size options * more than only one application design * durable construction * affordable
I was happily watching your video...and then BOOM! You drop a homework bomb on me. Ok fine, but its a little off subject. I have a porcupine problem. Porcupines eat WOOD...like half of my shed.
☆I would like a "tool" for safely picking up porcupines. And don't say "have a heart trap".
• it should have water and food feeders inside
• a shade tarp
• chewproof
• safe to handle/easy to set
• have an app that alerts you when porky is in trap
I guess, technically, I was researching my "homework" tool when I found your channel? (Even though this is a tool that I expect to have to build/make myself, not buy)
Here goes:
I would like to get (build?) a work bench that is modular and collapse-able enough to be able to transport in a compact car, but large enough and sturdy enough to be useful at a few different home remodeling locations I'm currently committed to.
-While hand woodworking is not anticipated to be the primary use of this tool, it shouldn't be excluded from doing small planing, mitering, or trim operations, and should have work-holding options compatible with such as needed.
-It has to be light enough in sections, to be practical for use by my wife to set up and take down, and preferably adjustable in height enough that both of us can use it effectively when needed (there's 15" difference in our heights).
-It needs to be sturdy enough to take whatever abuse it has to suffer, and still be stable.
-It should be durable enough to not require repair or rebuild more often than the remodel jobs we use it on.
-It should be cost-effective without being so "cheap" that we'd have been better off without it...
Now I can go to the next video in the series, although I'm not really a "Beginning woodworker" (My wife is showing an interest in woodworking, so I'm trying to educate and encourage her - it splits up the costs of tools!) ;-)
research Moravian Bench
Some steels quench in water, some quench in oil. There are also steels that quench in air. The simplified explanation is that when heated the carbon atoms move to different locations than when the steel was cold. When quenched, the carbon atoms are frozen in the positions they took when heated. This is makes it hard. The “freezing” action is called the gate. Air, oil, and water quench steels have different gates. Water harden has the shortest gate. In other words, it must be cooled the fastest. Cobalt put in the steel makes it able to stay hard when it gets hot. This is called “high speed” steel. It can get much sharper than carbide, but will not stay as sharp as long as the carbide will. 12% chrome is needed to make steel stainless. The chrome rusts before the iron does, and forms a covering to hide the iron from oxygen.
I understand. You have to walk a line when starting out on how much information to provide without overwhelming.
Very good advice I hope the younger guys are listening
Thanks
The girls are also listening.
thanks for sharing the video
My pleasure
I want a coping saw so I can make detailed cuts for irregular box designs while I save up for a bandsaw.
Would you please identify your favorite roughing and bowl gouge and recommend a source. Thanks
Thompson Tools uses good steel from Crucible.
Thanks, very informative 😁
Thanks
Would you recommend at least two sets? One for beater bench chisels and a second for fine woodworking like joinery?
As for the homework...
I would like to aquire/make a forge, to use in my shop, for making my own tools from the steel/s of my choice.
-It should have a ribbon burner
-it should have a completely removeable back so that a second, third, or fourth forge can be added for longer tools or even swords should my interests lean in that direction in the future.
-It must be propane powered
-it must include either the required blower for such an aperature or easy to follow directions to attach one.
-temperature controls via a thermocouple/thermostat with a digital read-out would be a major plus so that it can be used for getting as close as possible to the heat I need for forging, welding, and tempering of the tools to be made.
-A side access door may not be a requirement, but could be helpful and useful for smaller tools and implements access.
Everyone needs some beater chisels for tasks you do not want to use your good chisels on. I round the corners on my beaters too. But I do keep them pretty sharp. I want them to be able to do the chisel thing. I was using one yesterday to scrape rust off a utility knife I found in my crawl space. The beaters see a lot of use around the shop.
The modern inch is the US Customary inch. The empire adopted the US Customary standard in 1835. The old Imperial inch was 2.5 cm. Or 3 barley corns end to end. A modern inch is 2.54 cm. So slightly different. Recently I assembled a set of chisels for myself here out of odds and ends and I noticed that most of the chisels I had were not exactly any uniform inch size. I do not have any new chisels either. They were all made before global metrification. It is woodworking so close enough is close enough.
yep, it's good enough. in the end it's all math.
@@wortheffort I worked in a tool and die shop and made instruments accurate to 0.00005 (not a typo that is half a ten thousandth) of an inch. So I'd say it is good enough. At that scale everything is pretty esoteric inch or metric.
Looking to add a quality chain saw in order to harvest materials for projects.
For the past month or so I've been trying to research the best tool to help me determine flatness. I am looking for a straight edge not to long not to short, around 2 feet. I want the base wide enough so it can stand on its own. I'm not sure if I will be ok with a cheap $20 24" level, or if I should jump up to specifically a $50 stabila 24" level/measuring stick.
Also consider woodworking does not need scientific levels of flatness as the wood moves with atmospheric moisture. Flat enough is good enough.
@@wortheffort that would depend on your level of OCD, a common "disorder" among wood and metal workers and other crafts-people. The Stabila would be much more planer (accuritely ground) than most cheap levels. Bare in mind that even a small bump or drop can throw off the squareness or flatness of any aluminium level. An antique wooden Stanley with brass edges would take more abuse, but the movement of the wood due to humidity and or wetness would make it less accurite. Search a tool supplier for a "straight edge" if that is what you really need.
Have you thought about streaming woodturning projects?
They don't do well so I stopped.
What temp do you heat in toaster oven to aneal it
If I can only afford one Thompson gouge, which one will give me the most bang for the money? Thanks
John Skaggs depends upon what you want to make and what’ll round out collection. Do your research and you’ll figure it out.
I was thinking the same thing. Depends on you oarticular needs. Think about what you want to make, what size your bowls or spindle work will be. How much detail you would like to be able to do. Weather you plan on hard or soft wood as you primary medium, or even resin/epoxy work.
I have heard many turners say a 5/8" deep valley bowl gouge is their primary tool, but this could limit how small and deep your decorative details could be. Also, the 5/8 would be serious overkill for items like fine finial work like what Cindy Drozda does. While the bowl gouge can perform differently for many tasks, it ia not really the best tool for many things. An eventual collection of multiple tools will expand your skill and capabilities. Another primary tool that can do a lot of different tasks is the skew chisel. For beginners the skew can be an interesting tool to master as it can get catches more than a gouge for the typical beginner. Watch many channels by searching (how to use a "enter tool name here").
Check out some or all of these channels...
-Capt. Eddie Castilin
-Mike Waldt
-the Wyoming Woodturner
And for some insight amd inspiration,
-the blind wood turner.
@@thomasarussellsr Thanks for your input - I will continue my research. Blessings
You had me on side up until you started promoting the imperial system 🤣
I cannot believe that 4 in 1 tool exists. I wanna know what kind of person would buy that. Like, if you are doing chiseling and filing in the first place, you would already know that tool is laughably bad. Maybe someone extremely naive would buy it as a gift because they wouldn't know any better. I'd hate to be on the receiving end of that
ya, it's a joke.
Shawn...please make a video featuring crappy tools (and why they are a joke)
It is not a bad tool for a handyman that has to carry all of their tools to a site. 50 pounds is a lot better to lug around than 100 pounds is. So you want tools that can do multiple tasks.
Love your videos!! Any woodturning videos coming up? :)
Week or so
People, Sharpen your tools! I no longer have feeling in the tip of my thumb due to a dull meat cleaver and an onion.
Meat cleavers are for meat (not onions). Just like cross cut saws are not for ripping. (Right Shawn?)
Meat cleaver for cutting an onion? I guess it is technically a knife, but not typically one used for vegetables. Yeah, dull knives are way more dangerous, just like woodworking tools, but if I turn all of my kitchen knives into razor-sharp edges, then my wife is constantly cutting herself. I have tried to show her the proper way to use a knife, but with her learning disability she just doesn't get it. As is, she has a reasonably sharp but not razor sharp pearing knife, and refuses to touch my knives which can all shave an elephant (some of the toughest hair out there). My kitchen knives, that she refuses to use, can cut a tomato just laying the knife on them and adding maybe 5 pounds of pressure over their weight, with extremely little sawing action. One draw of the knife can cut a thin slice of onion with no arguement from the onion.
@@thomasarussellsr Oh ya i'm the same way with my good knives. I refine the edge to a mirror finish. I was previously breaking down some chicken and just transitioned to veggies. 90% of the time it's fine. Guess I learned the hard way, it's not fine.
Aha , I use Stanley as a beginner , work just fine 🤔 .
sharpen often
Sorry but I wouldn't buy those Grotesquely, with a capital letter, overpriced PMV chisels! I'd buy a much better excellent quality vintage chisel, Swan, original Stanley even the old Fulton's are excellent! The only plastic handled chisel I would have are the Stanley construction chisels! I wouldn't use a plastic handle for joinery work. I'll take classic tools over modern any day! The prices for the boutique tools is just STUPID ridiculous when you can do the same thing with a good quality vintage tool. There's a line and I won't cross it !!! You go for it, I'll save my money and do exactly the same thing !
@@ekbanjosworld4926 have ya used them?
Yada yada yada 👍👍👍
blah, blah, blah :)
Craftsman is a good brand now that Dewalt has bought the company, also porter cable, they’re all Dewalt.
Gabe Smith is disagree in PC. They’ve been sent down market. Only things like the 890 router which have endured from before buyout seem heavy duty and even there they’ve started cutting corners. Really shocked they didn’t leave that above dewalt.
wortheffort yeah, I worded that weirdly I agree with you on cutting corners, it is shocking
@@wortheffort I agree Porter Cable is not what it used to be. I have some old Porter Cable tools and they're prosumer. The new stuff is junk.
@@gabesmith6475 DeWalt is a subsidiary brand of Black and Decker. B&D is the Stanley of power tools. They buy brands and just crap them up. Everything is made in some factory in the far east today anyways. So I don't know what matters anymore.
Odd question I know - but are you feeling OK? You seem to be slurring some words. Love the video anyway
Look behind you. See that line?
A real odd question indeed. You seem to be asking questions that have nothing to do with this video. Are you delusional?
Who's John Brown?
chair maker
Muito bem amigo...se escreve ai