How To Succeed When 3D Printing With NylonX Filament // How To 3D Print Tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2017
- Learn how to print with NylonX, our carbon fiber infused nylon filament that is ridiculously strong! Printing with nylon can be a little tricky in general, so we've developed this in-depth video to help you out!
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Thanks for all your help. I'm a mechanical engineer and design molds for the auto-industry. Just got into 3D printing and WOW!!!! Awesome.
Great video. Just the information I needed. Thank you
Great overview on how to succeed with a NylonX!
Thank you!
I print with this stuff all the time and love it. Paired it with the Ruby nozzle and it prints great!
Awesome! It's currently on sale right now - 15% off! Find it here: www.matterhackers.com/store/c/abrasive-filaments -- (sale ends 9-17-2017)
What layer height do you recommend?
How do you get it to stick to the printer bed?
Super useful info bro!
Thanks. Good video and information. Groovy music too.
Thanks for this video. Good info! I would like to share another tip here: When printing Nylon, for a really flat and shiny surface finish of the first layer, I always apply a layer of water-soluble white wood glue (=PVA) on the entire surface of my buildplate. I apply that layer by first putting some painters tape along the edges of the buildplate, then pouring down plenty of PVA glue between those tapes on the buildplate and finally flattening out the glue with a metal ruler. The PVA layer will then have the same thickness of the tapes on the edges and you will end up with al very smooth surface to print Nylon on. TIP: When printing large items a glass build plate might break due to the fact that Nylon really sticks well on PVA and due to the warping of the printed item.
Awesome! Thanks for the great, detailed feedback!
Bed adhesion is literally the most important factor in printing nylon, and this video completely ignores this, making nylon printing sound easy. We don't need >100 TH-cam videos explaining nylon is hydroscopic and to buy this and buy that and try this and try that.
I've had huge rafts just lift away mid-print on all brands of nylon.
Sometimes I think the filament industry has a business plan to answer "try this, try that" while burning pounds of plastic filament.
This comment by you is the only really practical point in this entire video.
Thanks for mentioning to heat the nozzle before removing. I've seen numerous videos that say change out the nozzle but no one ever says to heat it up first. While this may or may not be common knowledge to most 3d printer owners, being new to this, this is first I've heard about that👍
I've never heard this and have never done this because burns.
very informative.
awesome video thank you!
Printing some Subaru Outback lift spacers right now in this material. I am so excited to see how they come out. It is an absolutely beautiful material.
Did they work?
Updates? I am curious also.
Maybe I missed this in the video somewhere, but what diameter nozzle is recommended when printing NylonX? I've heard it's generally a good idea to size up your nozzle when printing these "infused" filaments, but by how much? Is a .40 diameter nozzle adequate? Should I go bigger? Or - does it depend more so on layer height? For regular Nylon, I'd prefer a smaller diameter nozzle b/c printing with my .40mm nozzle @ .20mm layer height is too stringy.
I assume one would also need an enclosure to print this because it's a type of nylon and would need that even heating to minimize warpage? However - Do I still need to turn off my layer cooling fans if I am using an enclosure?
Good tip on the z height for first layer... I think this was an issue I was having with Taulman Bridge nylon previously.
Hey i was using Carbon Fiber PETG and watched your video many good tips i applied to the CF PETG with good success. Thank You for posting. D
Is the printing with enclosure or without ?
Great info and product, however, you're wrong on desiccant not being able to extract moisture from filament. I think CNC Kitchen demonstrated this in part of one of their videos. Obviously its not as fast as oven but you can see measurable continued extraction of moisture beyond what you get from the oven over time. This simply makes sense too, like baking bread or something you get a dry outer crush with moisture still towards the middle, filament is smaller in diameter but also much more dense. Moral of the story, dry in oven then store air tight WITH desiccant for continued slow extraction (I think around 10days stored it levels out to as low as you're going to get).
Agggggghhh...... I have to try flexibles eventually. I've been sticking to PLA this whole time. I'm worried about jamming up a nozzle...
What bridge or super steep overhang settings would you recommend as a starting point with NylonX, please? I just need a good starting point. The printer is all metal hot end M3D V6 upgraded Creality Ender-5 Plus with the Silent Stepper board upgrade (TMC2208 drivers) and the latest TM3D Marlin 2.0 firmware. I'm comfortable with dialing in the e-steps, the slicer flow rate, so that my lines come out to within .01mm of the line width if not dead on. I'm pretty comfortable getting my z offset, but I rarely do bridging, and my most successful bridging or overhangs have been minimal at best or supported. With an expensive filament like NylonX, I'd sure like to at least have a chance at some strong bridging. I saw an article on the MH website demonstrating the bridge strength of NylonX but the article didn't mention anything about the bridge settings used. Thanks for any help you might be able to give for a good starting point.
okay so you suggest putting this in the same oven that we cook food in? realize that was a dumb question but short of buying another oven thinking how to safely dry out nylon
This will be nice to print my HMC with and with no post processing, but it might be difficult to glue parts together if I have to do multiple parts
Hey bro, what type of 3D printer did you use man
I see many people are replacing the hot end on the ender 3 & ender 5 printers with all metal hot ends in order to print nylon, carbon fiber etc. Would you by chance know if the ender 3 "PRO" and ender 5 "PRO" come standard with hot ends that do not need hot end modification to print nylon & CF? Also, I am about to purchase my 1st 3D printer and will mostly be printing materials that need to be high strength & rigid. Do you feel the Creality products are up for the challenge? And, since I'm basically looking for strong & rigid vs. nice looking, Would you recommend another printer within the same $300.00 - $600.00 price range? Your assistance with this decision would be greatly appreciated.
So I should buy a handheld laser temperature meter, I know it’s over kill but I’ve been lookin for a reason to get one
What 3-D printer do you recommend out of the box that’s good for using this nylon x? trying to spend under a thousand dollars and should it be a enclosed unit? I’m new to this so I want to get straight to printing when it arrives. And I’m trying to print 1/5 scale rc car wheels and they would need to be printed at a 100% fill at a 2mm to 3mm thickness so I’m lookin for kinda of fast prints not Particular pretty just flat and true prints? Something Like your gear bearing thing but not as thick
1:49 lol, that is not .05mm, thats more like 2mm offset
How is the wall strength with say 1mm thick? What's the minimum wall thickness recommended?
will the material absorb moisture once its been printed? No good for water application? ie rc boat
Hello, I need a material that can support up to 200c. does this support?
Does anyone know a service I could use to print some parts in Nylon X.
Outstanding video! What is the delta in terms of weight between the same PETG printed part and NylonX printed part?
Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know a way to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Robert Gerardo Instablaster :)
@Rowan Kole thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Rowan Kole It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
@Robert Gerardo You are welcome =)
Do all hot ends fit all printers?
Does anybody know: Can I print this filament on a Voron 2.4(r1)? What is know about temperature resiliance of the material? Thanks!
I’m trying to do this with the ender 3 and the adhesion is horrible I’m using a all metal hot end is there anyway you could help
The car body has blue stuff underneath it, what is that?
i am purchased nylonX from you guys thinking it would be good to print my homemade drone from. I read it would be one of the best but am not sure... Would there be specific settings for infill etc that would make it right. I am doing 100% infill with solid layer every 15 at .15 layers? thank you
so i answered my own question :) these settings worked great - had a tiny bit of warp but nothing i can't get over. the part looks great - it is very strong and much lighter then the PLA counterpart. Your video was dead on - you really need the glue ;) it saved me from making too many mistakes. I was able to print my parts on the third try (first after putting glue down). Way awesome guys - thank you very much. Going to look at NylonG for the drone arms - cause it has colors and is supposedly just as good as NylonX
Does anyone successfully print NylonX with Aqua Net hair spray? Or is a stick adhesive (ie: glue stick) what is absolutely needed?? I have a borosilicate bed that I was planning on trying to use with my NylonX. Thanks!!
Mate - your audio - it's quite hard to hear some of these specs, can I suggest a Lavallière mic? I can't understand what you are saying and the music doesn't duck enough. Thanks. I say this only because we really want to hear what you are saying.
I have ABS ramps for my truck and they dont crush. Haven't had anything but problems with high end nylons. Dunno what the problem is - 100c + bed dosent help, Micro Swiss all metal hot end dosent help, PEI dosent work glue stick helped a little. Got Tulman Bridge and it was oily. Im thinking theres fake Tulman filaments on Amazon now. The nylon carbon fiber is so flipping expensive, probably need a .8mm nozzle for it to not clog.
Same experience, the biggest problem is bed adhesion. Note this video doesn't even mention it as a problem.
thanks for video, btw, that's a crescent wrench
exactly my thoughts
I'd like to know what airtight container is being used in this video? It looks like a perfect size for single roll storage.
what retraction settings have been working for you guys? I keep getting a bit of stringing
also very curious about this. My prints have look 105% except for stringing
You should play with it.
WHAT TYPE OF PRINTER ARE YOU USING!!!!!
What were the settings used for the item strength demonstration?
Anything different for printing on PEI? Or same deal with gluestick?
NylonX can be difficult to print on PEI, but it is possible. We would still recommend using gluestick.
(intro song) Point Point - Morning BJ
Does NylonX absorb water if it is poured on it after the print is done and off of the bed?
Yes. In fact, any nylon product you purchase, like a handheld drill, absorbs water. The key difference is that once it's done printing, you aren't superheating the water. Heating the water is what breaks down the nylon chains, so once it's printed you can submerge the nylon part in water and it will be fine. - Alec
do i need to have a heated bed to be able to print with NylonX?
Yes lol
Will this print on CR-10?
You'll need to change your hotend. The stock hotend on a CR-10 is PTFE lined, which rapidly degrades and off-gasses toxic fumes at the temperatures needed for nylon. You could print and mount an E3D V6 and that would have you covered and give you a lot more material flexibility.
I disagree about desiccant pulling moisture from filament. I have had 2 "bad" spools of PLA show up that were water logged. After a couple weeks in a tub full (this is a 30 gallon tub with 7 pounds silica gel) of desiccant they were fine.
x9x9x9x9x9 You wont get the same results with Nylon. PLA is totally different but I guarantee you didn't get all the moister out of it using desiccant. It's impossible. Baking is the only wait to force all of the moisture out.
For sure. I just think it does suck some moisture out. It completely changed how the filament printed though so I believe it does draw some out. On the note about nylon vs pla; I know I was just saying in general. I believe it works. I do have a food dehydrator on the way though just so I can finally give nylon a try.
Can I print a hypercar (real car) chassis with this filament ?
If you have a printer the size of a fucking car sure
What’s a good 3D printer for printing Nylon X that’s costs about $500?
Ender 3 and upgrade it
Isn't it bad for your food in the oven if you put the SPOOL in the oven? The spool itself is .. I don't know ... other plastic? ABS? So toxic?
hey dude how much does a roll cost , thank you GOD bless
Could you olease make a video about filaments that could ruin your brass nozzle! Like filaments with carbon fiber, etc. I would love to buy some other filamenttyoes than pla and abs; but I don't know which filaments(with addins like glitter, etc) ruin your nozzle!
Get a hardened steel nozzle that's nickel plated. Itll last forever with regular filaments and take many kilograms before it starts to wear. Micro Swiss has them and so do others.
I've done about 2KG of glow in the dark, 2KG copper, and 500G of carbon fiber through a brass nozzle and it came out fine XD.
@@infernaldaedra That's highly doubtful.
@@clayton9136 The prints were fine. The nozzle was practically rounded off lmao.
Guys, could you please use personal microphones or change the mic location to improve the sound quality (reduce echo, increase volume)?
Thanks for the feedback! We will try to improve the sound next time!
sounds good to me.
Noble Speed motoworks Sounds good to you? OK, maybe you are American (& understand the accent) or know some of these parameters he talks of already. We aren't and don't. And when you are 40+ this word/music scenario is hard to hear.
Increase by .05?!?!?!! That's a massive jump.
Would rice keep it dry in a air tight container 🤔🤔🤔
Maybe but might need a lot of rice
Useful content thanks, but the title ‘music’ makes me flinch every-time I hear it
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It was helpful to me. Please make more of an effort to enunciate your words. I had to rewind part of your video 5 times and I am still not 100% sure what you were saying. I am new to 3D printing and don't know all of the jargon yet, but I think you were saying..."all-metal print heads".
He is saying all metal hot ends. This is an extruder where the Bowden tube does not go into the hot end, instead it connects up higher to a metal channel. This allows >240C printing because it will not heat degrade the PTFE teflon tubing. However, this is completely unnecessary if you use a $12 Capricorn Bowden tube, which will not degrade until >300C.
Go Birds!
Disecant does dry nylon.
I've never claimed to be a "pro" at 3d printing, but I never realized I'm an idiot. I CANNOT get NylonX to stick. I've tried glass, steal, PEI, and garolite beds...with ranges from 40-100C, and from 250-280C on my metal hotend with steel nozzle......all on a Hypercube Evolution 300. I have it enclosed, with no part cooling fan activation. I'm about to tear out my hair, and burn this printer !!!!