I definitely appreciated the speed control on my Brother when I was first learning to run a sewing machine. Mine also has a button on front to start/stop sewing, which I still use. But in the early days it was a great help, not having to focus on the foot controller while watching the then-seemingly million other things I needed to be doing. I can't wait for the "where to buy" video so I can tell about how many sewing machines I had damaged in transit from the large charity auction site.
I've got this exact Kenmore model, I was actually kind of shocked to see it on the thumbnail. Mine has been passed around to various relatives since my grandma died before ending up with me, and it's an absolute workhorse. I've only had to replace the original power cord, and clean and oil it regularly. Definitely one to consider buying.
If buying a machine in a thrift store, always check that the bobbin case and at least one bobbin are in the machine. Also, turn the hand wheel (clockwise) through at least one stitch cycle, feeling and listening. I sew mostly clothing and fabric bags, plus a corset once, and occasional home decor (curtains, cushion covers). I learned on the Kenmore model in this video, then bought a Pfaff sewing/embroidery machine. I didn't use the embroidery function as much as I thought I would. When the Pfaff died, I borrowed the Kenmore from mom until grandma gave me her Viking #1. I appreciate the options available in the newer, computerized machines, but if I had to choose one to last the rest of my life... I'd probably find a newer mechanical marketed to communities that don't use electricity. Pfaff's IDT is FAR better than messing with the bulk, noise, and hassle of a standard walking foot. Aside from that, and assuming a certain level of quality (rock-solid frame, for example) the not-always-standard features I value most are: Built-in needle threader Free arm-- not necessary for cuffs and hems, but easier Needle positions (three is good, every half mm is great)-- helps with top stitching, zipper insertion, and feed dog traction when dealing with fabric stacked higher on one side than the other Comfortable backstitch button or lever near the machine's foot-- can keep a hold of the work piece and the thread tail while hitting the button High-lift presser foot-- can get thick or puffy pieces through Adjustable presser foot pressure-- helps a great deal when sewing thick, fluffy, or very thin fabrics Only a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch are necessary for 99% of my sewing, including on stretch fabric (though I prefer the one I call half-ladder stitch for that, if it's available).
Excellent video and very well rounded accurate info!!! It took me years to come to these conclusions. I sew everything from clothes, bags, canvas, upholstery and own 7 machines currently because there is no single machine that can handle the wide range of materials. I do have an expensive Brother sewing/embroidery combo machine and I know I can't service it myself and it will cost a fortune. It has some features that the other machines don't have that are convenient. But... it's plastic and computerized and eventually its going to break. I also have an industrial and use it for heavy duty work like leather, upholstery, canvas and thick layers of denim. I have come to believe that if you try to make most modern plastic domestics do everything, it will likely break. They're ok for garments and basic light to medium weight fabric sewing. Even if a machine claims to be for quilting and bags, if the gears are plastic it might not be up to the task. If someone quilts or makes bags, they are likely not the occasional sewer...that machine will get worked!!. I now use a vintage Singer 201-2 for entire quilt projects, including the binding. It handles it with ease and beautiful stitches. I have a 301A straight stitcher as my portable. I love being able to service these machines myself and they have easy access oil points to keep them lubricated, just as my industrial. I hear the 401 and Kenmore models you have is some of the best vintage machines made. I've gone from vintage to modern and back to vintage machines. They truly last a lifetime and beyond. TFS
I just got a 1970s Elna machine at Goodwill. It seems to be in good shape, but it was without a cover. I'm debating spending the $120 cleaning charge at the local sew shop and thinking I can do the basic cleaning following an online manual. It's a more basic model. Your thoughts?
If you are handy, you can accomplish the cleaning yourself with a little mineral spirits on the internal parts. Let it dry really good and then oil it and add synthetic gear grease to all the gears.
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I definitely appreciated the speed control on my Brother when I was first learning to run a sewing machine. Mine also has a button on front to start/stop sewing, which I still use. But in the early days it was a great help, not having to focus on the foot controller while watching the then-seemingly million other things I needed to be doing.
I can't wait for the "where to buy" video so I can tell about how many sewing machines I had damaged in transit from the large charity auction site.
Thanks for this. I had the Kenmore and gave it to a family member.
My favorite is a Singer Slant-o-Matic 503A! It is a beauty and a beast!
I'd take the Kenmore over the Singer. I have one almost identical to this one. It's a tank.
I've got this exact Kenmore model, I was actually kind of shocked to see it on the thumbnail. Mine has been passed around to various relatives since my grandma died before ending up with me, and it's an absolute workhorse. I've only had to replace the original power cord, and clean and oil it regularly. Definitely one to consider buying.
Congrats on that Kenmore 158. Very much sought after.
If buying a machine in a thrift store, always check that the bobbin case and at least one bobbin are in the machine. Also, turn the hand wheel (clockwise) through at least one stitch cycle, feeling and listening.
I sew mostly clothing and fabric bags, plus a corset once, and occasional home decor (curtains, cushion covers). I learned on the Kenmore model in this video, then bought a Pfaff sewing/embroidery machine. I didn't use the embroidery function as much as I thought I would. When the Pfaff died, I borrowed the Kenmore from mom until grandma gave me her Viking #1. I appreciate the options available in the newer, computerized machines, but if I had to choose one to last the rest of my life... I'd probably find a newer mechanical marketed to communities that don't use electricity.
Pfaff's IDT is FAR better than messing with the bulk, noise, and hassle of a standard walking foot. Aside from that, and assuming a certain level of quality (rock-solid frame, for example) the not-always-standard features I value most are:
Built-in needle threader
Free arm-- not necessary for cuffs and hems, but easier
Needle positions (three is good, every half mm is great)-- helps with top stitching, zipper insertion, and feed dog traction when dealing with fabric stacked higher on one side than the other
Comfortable backstitch button or lever near the machine's foot-- can keep a hold of the work piece and the thread tail while hitting the button
High-lift presser foot-- can get thick or puffy pieces through
Adjustable presser foot pressure-- helps a great deal when sewing thick, fluffy, or very thin fabrics
Only a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch are necessary for 99% of my sewing, including on stretch fabric (though I prefer the one I call half-ladder stitch for that, if it's available).
Excellent video and very well rounded accurate info!!! It took me years to come to these conclusions. I sew everything from clothes, bags, canvas, upholstery and own 7 machines currently because there is no single machine that can handle the wide range of materials. I do have an expensive Brother sewing/embroidery combo machine and I know I can't service it myself and it will cost a fortune. It has some features that the other machines don't have that are convenient. But... it's plastic and computerized and eventually its going to break. I also have an industrial and use it for heavy duty work like leather, upholstery, canvas and thick layers of denim. I have come to believe that if you try to make most modern plastic domestics do everything, it will likely break. They're ok for garments and basic light to medium weight fabric sewing. Even if a machine claims to be for quilting and bags, if the gears are plastic it might not be up to the task. If someone quilts or makes bags, they are likely not the occasional sewer...that machine will get worked!!. I now use a vintage Singer 201-2 for entire quilt projects, including the binding. It handles it with ease and beautiful stitches. I have a 301A straight stitcher as my portable. I love being able to service these machines myself and they have easy access oil points to keep them lubricated, just as my industrial. I hear the 401 and Kenmore models you have is some of the best vintage machines made. I've gone from vintage to modern and back to vintage machines. They truly last a lifetime and beyond. TFS
It is wonderful that you have a wide variety of sewing machines for completing different tasks. Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
I just got a 1970s Elna machine at Goodwill. It seems to be in good shape, but it was without a cover. I'm debating spending the $120 cleaning charge at the local sew shop and thinking I can do the basic cleaning following an online manual. It's a more basic model. Your thoughts?
If you are handy, you can accomplish the cleaning yourself with a little mineral spirits on the internal parts. Let it dry really good and then oil it and add synthetic gear grease to all the gears.
Thank you! Got any feelings about the White 763,764, or 769? I’d love to hear it if you do.
The White models you mentioned are very heavy well-built machines.
Get a 70s-80s Japan Precision Made Sewing Machine. Don't waste money on Plastic 12v to 24v DC powered Sewing Toy.
The Kenmore is Japanese made and from the '70s. Most of this style are Janome.