Can't understand why those know it alls out there gave you a thumbs down ,when you are trying and succeeding in showing a nice and easy way to do a tricky job for the average person out there . Don't be put off by the spoilers of this world.
Thanks for this video. Brings back memories. I'm fifty years at the trade and have hardly touched a hand saw, especially for an operation like this cope, in many years. Your critics demonstrate their egos, not any superior skill. You show the method I was taught as a boy; and moving on with the expectation that caulk will perfect the result looks entirely appropriate, given the rough situation of this install. BTW, another possibility that you might consider in this type of situation is a jack miter: you would cut the straight bottom portion just as you did, but then miter only the top molded part. Likewise, you would miter the top of the piece it butts to. This gives a reasonable result, most of the advantages of a full cope, but without taking the time, trouble, or skill to cope the molded portion. Another "trick" that your critics will decry: if you feel caulking the top edge to the wall will be acceptable (and it definitelywould be in this case), you can use the head of a small screw partially driven into the back side of the piece you are coping against to bring its face to plumb before coping the next piece. This can be more convenient and give more control than using a shim after the fact. The technique can also be used if the bottom of the baseboard leans inward from plumb. In this latter case, the screw doesn't show, nor is caulk at the top necessary. If the walls are timber framed instead of concrete, the screw shim can be driven at the appropriate height into the wall, rather than into the back side of the baseboard. As your detractors might have pointed out as evidence of their vast understanding, a modern pro would use compound sliding miter saw and power saber saw with aggressive tooth configuration and Collins coping foot, which enables cutting the cope from underneath with lots of control and great speed. But demonstrating this method would have been far less useful to its intended audience than the very sound and practical technique you shared with DIYers. Along with them, I appreciate that you took the time to share it. Good technique. Good video. Rude commenters.
i guess im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot the password. I love any help you can give me
@Bryant Brooks I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
That's bloody brilliant!Never seen it done like that before. I thought that you were going to cut both pieces at 45 degrees. Never too old to learn!Many thanks!🙂👍👍👍
I have to admit I was giggling a bit when I saw you grab that handsaw, but I wasn't giggling when I saw the finished product. I love surprises like this - well done!
Always fit to a fixed skirting. Nice to see you showing the basic method of cutting the profile. I think it would have been good if you highlighted the mould profile with the pencil before you cut it.
Thank you for that. The initial 45 degree angle cut, i had not seen before. Priceless tip. And you’re correct, wedges and quality caulking will finish the job tidy. Very much appreciated
Exactly! He could have simply adjust the "square" line he made on the flat face of the baseboard (skirting) and cut it and it would have fit with no additional gap at the wall on the other piece. No added steps, no added time. In fact less (no shimming and less caulking).
Gold technique, ive always done it this way, i use the mitre saw instead of the hand saw to save time then the coping saw at about 85° from the face just so it butts up nice and tight everytime ✌
Skirting can be one of the hardest jobs as a joiner trying to work around bent twisted out of plumb walls , specially when the plasterers can’t skim a reveal square and it throws external mitres out
Beautiful work using hand tools, but it's we are in the 21st century and over the course of a house worth of skirting and Scotia, a mitre saw and a barrel grip jig saw equipped with a Collins coping foot will be the fastest and most accurate way of doing this. The skill in using your hand tools cannot be denied though, so for that you have my praise!
@@N1rOx It depends on how big the job is ,other wise it’s not worth setting up power tools . A basic hard point crosscut handsaw & educated use of a coping saw is all that’s needed .
A joiner that works on many jobs with twisted & out of plug plumb walls ,soon learns the value of being proficient with his axe & scunting chisel . Not all walls are out due to poor plastering skills ,sometimes it’s due to old age settlement in old & listed buildings . This is known as character ,walls that are perfect & square are boring & devoid of any .
@@N1rOx Unless it’s a massive big house with more than two or three bedrooms ,it’s still not worth dragging all the big kit out for ,just to fit a few skirts . Fitting skirting boards with a few basic hand tools ,is run of the mill stuff for an experienced time served tradesman .
Should've really included undercutting and scribing to the wall which Is the correct way to finish skirting to an uneven wall. if it isnt a painted finish then gaps aren't an option, as some people have commented. Also 45 degrees only works on a 90 degree reveal but when are they ever?😂. Always bisect your angles especially if you are going into angled bay or something. Scribing is definitely the right way though. Never internal miters!
If you just measure from the corner to the wall cut it on your bevel 45 then back cut the 45 into almost nothing and cope it out and slide it in .. done
Excellent video I learnt my apprenticeship 30 odd years cutting loads of these cuts in an old victorian house in Lincoln... Bloody nightmare... If I'm doing skirting I still do this... Some times if the corner is "on the piss".. I do the same but cut the profile at 45 then follow the shape with the coping saw...
Not sure you know exactly what a scribe is, your not only cutting out the profile, you need to match the angle, this keeps the joint tight even if the timber shrinks. You may have well done an internal mitre and caulked the gap while filling the gap where you've wedged it off the wall.
The reason your scribe is lying open is because the wall which the dead skirting is fixed to is not plumb this is easily rectified by instead of cutting the vertical on your scribe square scribe it to the wall first that way you don’t need to pack anything out and the scribe is air tight and is ready for painting instead of having to fill, not as obvious on a 4 “ skirting but on 6 “ and 8 “ and deeper it looks awful.
Who uses hand saws in the last 20 or 30 years. Compound miter saw and a jig saw with a long fine wood blade . A whole room can be done cutting by the time you get one done by hand. The joint you are demonstrating is called a cope joint in the states.
I think this video was intended for home DIY people. Ie non professionals. You wouldn’t get paid by your customer if you produced that sort of quality of work.
This is a man with only saws , plane the back will look neater, the difference between guys that get the job done for easy customers , compared to those that require the best
My favorite part was when he said "after you've caulked it and painted it, you PROBABLY won't see it"! I agree with him completely. That joint would look just fine... in somebody else's house!
A good plasterer should clean there skirting lines but 9 times out of 10 they leave like a little bell cast or a little ridge at the bottom that kicks the skirting out I useally adjust it on the straight cut bit I can kinda judge it by eye now adays as iv done so much skirting but fairplay for cutting your mitre by hand lol I use a mitre saw now its so much easier
Good demo but it's quite a tricky job. Don't expect to get it right the first time. Coping saw Is not the easiest tool to master!! I find the outside corners trickier 😦😦
Can you do a better scribe than this, definitely I can, but I use my mitre saw and a jigsaw upside done and sometimes a file or piece of sandpaper to get a super tight fit. But I ask myself could I do much better with only a hand saw since I’ve been so reliant on a mitresaw for so long. I think I’d have to be honest and saw I couldn’t do any better as would be the case for most people with the negative comments
They aren't negative about his use of the handsaw, it's the slap happy way he did the scribe and just couldn't be arsed to cut the top with any care, oh and too much pencil all over the wood. You might not be able to do better but I can bet there are plenty on here who can.
That just a basic scribe!! Learnt that in my first year!! But even your scribe needed scribing!! Little tip carry a block plane!! A couple of runs and that would have fitted sweet!!!
I would be embarrassed to make this video. I would get a right slagging from many of my old buddies in the trade & I’ve been out the game for 30 years. The other comments below say much about the same.
Or you could cut the wall behind the board to be plumb and use a correct angle to butt them together such as 45° to 45° or 22.5 ° to 22.5° and make a perfect smooth joint with two perfect cuts on a miter chop saw. Simple, quick beautiful transition from board to board.
This is madness why on earth are these videos around showing people how to "scribe" a skirting corner. 1stly it was done that way before mitre saws we're invented when carpenters had no way to accurately Mitre cut & they used hand saws & coping saws all day so had built up the skill to use them quickly to do this method. Secondly & most importantly the whole point is to get the geometric look of the 45° mitres like the external corners, like a picture frame. with this method your joint line isn't straight down the centre it waves off following the upper profile of the skirting. Also ridiculous because the first step of this process is to 45 mitre it so just stop there. Yes not all rooms are perfectly square so either fill the gap with caulk if your painting it or if your leaving it as natural wood just sand the rear of the 45° edge down a little if you have slight gap towards the front & vice versa if you have a gap at the back.
Can't understand why those know it alls out there gave you a thumbs down ,when you are trying and succeeding in showing a nice and easy way to do a tricky job for the average person out there .
Don't be put off by the spoilers of this world.
Thanks for this video. Brings back memories. I'm fifty years at the trade and have hardly touched a hand saw, especially for an operation like this cope, in many years. Your critics demonstrate their egos, not any superior skill. You show the method I was taught as a boy; and moving on with the expectation that caulk will perfect the result looks entirely appropriate, given the rough situation of this install.
BTW, another possibility that you might consider in this type of situation is a jack miter: you would cut the straight bottom portion just as you did, but then miter only the top molded part. Likewise, you would miter the top of the piece it butts to. This gives a reasonable result, most of the advantages of a full cope, but without taking the time, trouble, or skill to cope the molded portion.
Another "trick" that your critics will decry: if you feel caulking the top edge to the wall will be acceptable (and it definitelywould be in this case), you can use the head of a small screw partially driven into the back side of the piece you are coping against to bring its face to plumb before coping the next piece. This can be more convenient and give more control than using a shim after the fact. The technique can also be used if the bottom of the baseboard leans inward from plumb. In this latter case, the screw doesn't show, nor is caulk at the top necessary. If the walls are timber framed instead of concrete, the screw shim can be driven at the appropriate height into the wall, rather than into the back side of the baseboard.
As your detractors might have pointed out as evidence of their vast understanding, a modern pro would use compound sliding miter saw and power saber saw with aggressive tooth configuration and Collins coping foot, which enables cutting the cope from underneath with lots of control and great speed. But demonstrating this method would have been far less useful to its intended audience than the very sound and practical technique you shared with DIYers. Along with them, I appreciate that you took the time to share it. Good technique. Good video. Rude commenters.
i guess im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the password. I love any help you can give me
@Angel Dominik Instablaster ;)
@Bryant Brooks I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Bryant Brooks It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out !
@Angel Dominik No problem :)
That's bloody brilliant!Never seen it done like that before. I thought that you were going to cut both pieces at 45 degrees. Never too old to learn!Many thanks!🙂👍👍👍
If you're not a carpenter you may not have heard of coping. That is what he it's trying to show but is not very good at doing it
I have to admit I was giggling a bit when I saw you grab that handsaw, but I wasn't giggling when I saw the finished product.
I love surprises like this - well done!
Always fit to a fixed skirting. Nice to see you showing the basic method of cutting the profile. I think it would have been good if you highlighted the mould profile with the pencil before you cut it.
Hi thank you, doing up my house and can't afford a carpenter, so I am practicing now. Much appreciated. X
I have learnt more watching this video, then I did in college. Thanks for sharing your trade skills.
50 years later? The old ones are still the best and they still work exactly as they always have done!
Thank you for that. The initial 45 degree angle cut, i had not seen before. Priceless tip. And you’re correct, wedges and quality caulking will finish the job tidy. Very much appreciated
I’ll give you 50%. I’d like to have seen the finished job. You’ve got a bit to learn. But your coming on son.
Another way instead of pulling out at the top is just going with the wall and scribing the scribe cut to the angle that is no longer 90
Exactly! He could have simply adjust the "square" line he made on the flat face of the baseboard (skirting) and cut it and it would have fit with no additional gap at the wall on the other piece. No added steps, no added time. In fact less (no shimming and less caulking).
Gold technique, ive always done it this way, i use the mitre saw instead of the hand saw to save time then the coping saw at about 85° from the face just so it butts up nice and tight everytime ✌
Mitre saw or mitre box is fine if walls are plumb which they seldom are so after your efforts it’s the painters job to make good ?
Cant see it from my house
All that and without ten thousand dollars worth of DeFestoki tools, rare tropical orange cedar wood, or CAD.
You'll need a ready mix wagon called to fill in that scribe....
Basic stuff for any professional tradesman joiner , a revelation for Diyers .
And even this so called tradesman didn’t get it right as he assumed the walls were plumb hence the reason his scribe is not fitting properly.
Skirting can be one of the hardest jobs as a joiner trying to work around bent twisted out of plumb walls , specially when the plasterers can’t skim a reveal square and it throws external mitres out
Beautiful work using hand tools, but it's we are in the 21st century and over the course of a house worth of skirting and Scotia, a mitre saw and a barrel grip jig saw equipped with a Collins coping foot will be the fastest and most accurate way of doing this. The skill in using your hand tools cannot be denied though, so for that you have my praise!
@@N1rOx It depends on how big the job is ,other wise it’s not worth setting up power tools . A basic hard point crosscut handsaw & educated use of a coping saw is all that’s needed .
A joiner that works on many jobs with twisted & out of plug plumb walls ,soon learns the value of being proficient with his axe & scunting chisel . Not all walls are out due to poor plastering skills ,sometimes it’s due to old age settlement in old & listed buildings . This is known as character ,walls that are perfect & square are boring & devoid of any .
@@maskedavenger2578 hence why I said over a house worth.
@@N1rOx Unless it’s a massive big house with more than two or three bedrooms ,it’s still not worth dragging all the big kit out for ,just to fit a few skirts . Fitting skirting boards with a few basic hand tools ,is run of the mill stuff for an experienced time served tradesman .
Hey this video is not for experts like me or you guys it’s made for starters or doing it your self so don’t go hard in this guy ok 😁😁😁
Yes agree. It’s for home DIY folks who don’t mind it looking like shite when it’s finished.
As usual it's left to the Pro- Decorators' to hide shoddy joints.
Blinking good video. Thanks Chippie. Trying it this avo.
Should've really included undercutting and scribing to the wall which Is the correct way to finish skirting to an uneven wall. if it isnt a painted finish then gaps aren't an option, as some people have commented. Also 45 degrees only works on a 90 degree reveal but when are they ever?😂. Always bisect your angles especially if you are going into angled bay or something. Scribing is definitely the right way though. Never internal miters!
If you just measure from the corner to the wall cut it on your bevel 45 then back cut the 45 into almost nothing and cope it out and slide it in .. done
Excellent video I learnt my apprenticeship 30 odd years cutting loads of these cuts in an old victorian house in Lincoln... Bloody nightmare... If I'm doing skirting I still do this... Some times if the corner is "on the piss".. I do the same but cut the profile at 45 then follow the shape with the coping saw...
Yes and use a jig nowadays
Not sure you know exactly what a scribe is, your not only cutting out the profile, you need to match the angle, this keeps the joint tight even if the timber shrinks.
You may have well done an internal mitre and caulked the gap while filling the gap where you've wedged it off the wall.
so then the skirting and the wall would be out of level hes done his part correct.
Great video everything we need and nothing we don't Well done
The reason your scribe is lying open is because the wall which the dead skirting is fixed to is not plumb this is easily rectified by instead of cutting the vertical on your scribe square scribe it to the wall first that way you don’t need to pack anything out and the scribe is air tight and is ready for painting instead of having to fill, not as obvious on a 4 “ skirting but on 6 “ and 8 “ and deeper it looks awful.
I can watch a hundred videos I will always frank spencer it every time
Who uses hand saws in the last 20 or 30 years. Compound miter saw and a jig saw with a long fine wood blade . A whole room can be done cutting by the time you get one done by hand. The joint you are demonstrating is called a cope joint in the states.
Some people ( like me) only have a hand saw so its handy to see how to use it.
@@hilaryknight934 ok, true. I didn’t realize who you were demonstrating to.
Not in the states tho
Today's carpenters can't use hand tools anymore
I think this video was intended for home DIY people. Ie non professionals. You wouldn’t get paid by your customer if you produced that sort of quality of work.
Proper joiners use a metal compass with pencil to scribe.
Or plane the back of the skirting lol
That was my first thought.
This is a man with only saws , plane the back will look neater, the difference between guys that get the job done for easy customers , compared to those that require the best
Absolutely. Dog rough.
Caulk? You need spacer or nail in between the board and wall before you secure it mate square and plum is very important
My favorite part was when he said "after you've caulked it and painted it, you PROBABLY won't see it"!
I agree with him completely. That joint would look just fine... in somebody else's house!
Good job your not using oak or any natural finish timber
A good plasterer should clean there skirting lines but 9 times out of 10 they leave like a little bell cast or a little ridge at the bottom that kicks the skirting out I useally adjust it on the straight cut bit I can kinda judge it by eye now adays as iv done so much skirting but fairplay for cutting your mitre by hand lol I use a mitre saw now its so much easier
Caulking? What if you want to varnish the skirting?
A sliding bevel would have helped you out if the skirting was getting stained or varnish but all in all a good video for the DIYers thanks
That's bloody marvellous. Top job
It's not a trick. It's how it's supposed to be done. Except for bodging a packer behind it. That bit is wrong.
Dont forget to subscribe
@@prestonworktop 😅
Brilliant! Will follow exactly what you said. Thanks for your help.
Hey Charles Ingalls, ever heard of a chop saw?
Lol good video brother.
Thank you for teaching us and sharing because realy i learn
Good demo but it's quite a tricky job. Don't expect to get it right the first time. Coping saw Is not the easiest tool to master!! I find the outside corners trickier 😦😦
Can you do a better scribe than this, definitely I can, but I use my mitre saw and a jigsaw upside done and sometimes a file or piece of sandpaper to get a super tight fit. But I ask myself could I do much better with only a hand saw since I’ve been so reliant on a mitresaw for so long. I think I’d have to be honest and saw I couldn’t do any better as would be the case for most people with the negative comments
They aren't negative about his use of the handsaw, it's the slap happy way he did the scribe and just couldn't be arsed to cut the top with any care, oh and too much pencil all over the wood. You might not be able to do better but I can bet there are plenty on here who can.
Cheers this helped me out and mine looks great.
That just a basic scribe!! Learnt that in my first year!! But even your scribe needed scribing!! Little tip carry a block plane!! A couple of runs and that would have fitted sweet!!!
How much do you have to pay for 1 meter for skerting
Neatly done- experience matters!
Only cut 45 degree with a shop saw and is it
Why not plane the back if chiseling the concrete would fix it
Where are the rest of your tools?
How do you stick the base in to the plaster wallx
Grip fill
Can't see the problem
Sound job
I would be embarrassed to make this video. I would get a right slagging from many of my old buddies in the trade & I’ve been out the game for 30 years. The other comments below say much about the same.
Comical innit.ex joiner.
Shocking
I’m no expert joiner but I think that was fine, it all married up in the end, what more do you want.
Different techniques, love it. I’ll add this to my toolbox
Thanks that helps loads.!👍🤩
Great tutorial
А внешний угол он также запиливать будет? Ахринеть какие ,,профи,,.Для этого надо было всего-то запилить под 45 и всё.
Good job ready for painter to finish it up.
Certíssimo..., ficou show!!!!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Eu sou inglis Valter... mas Brasileiros gusta os Inglis..videos
Or you could cut the wall behind the board to be plumb and use a correct angle to butt them together such as 45° to 45° or 22.5 ° to 22.5° and make a perfect smooth joint with two perfect cuts on a miter chop saw. Simple, quick beautiful transition from board to board.
Internal mitres is not the way to fit molded timber to an internal corner in any instance
Ur an artist
Use a chopsaw mate
Great tips. I learned a lot.
Anyone know where to find this video in English?
how many days to do that ??🤣🤣
Looked better by he cut it
Critics... the scribe was great .. That was the purpose of this video
Block plane the bottom
Of the scribe 👌
Its called coping ..and its been around since the beginning of time
5 out 10 for me ; )
Beautiful ❤️
Brilliant I can never get it rite
Nice tip!
keep trying and you may get it right
Corta em 45° fica tudo resolvido
That's some skill
Ciaran that was rough what if the skirting was getting varnished
10 out 9 carpenter leave the gaps to decorator to fill :D a decorator
r u living in 2022.....?
Nice baseboard for a dungeon!
Um. Just 45 it. Just a thought🤔
That's good but u wasting more time cutting with hand saw so this kinda good
why did nt i think of this years ago, easy job
If you had thought of it years ago, that would be two of you crap at scribing!
I’d have a word with the plasterer first
Would you really
Top Man 👊🏽👳🏽♂️
why not just using furring strips and plumb the wall ?? there’s a concept lol
How is that quick that’s what your meant to do
Yah it's called coping
Where is the trick? Thats just a standard scribe
Loss of fillers
You her
You having a clue mate
You haven’t got a clue mate
This looks so stupidly complicated, why don't just cut both skirtings in 45 angle.
Nothing dap can't fix
Or just throw the saw away and use your teeth to get a better finish.
Just 45 them . Much faster.
Deffo a manc👍
Wow come on guy
I'd hope that was gonna be painted. Terrible job
Get a chop saw
Cowboy
Rough
You slept with a joiner and stole his tools and went on a 2 week course
This is madness why on earth are these videos around showing people how to "scribe" a skirting corner. 1stly it was done that way before mitre saws we're invented when carpenters had no way to accurately Mitre cut & they used hand saws & coping saws all day so had built up the skill to use them quickly to do this method. Secondly & most importantly the whole point is to get the geometric look of the 45° mitres like the external corners, like a picture frame. with this method your joint line isn't straight down the centre it waves off following the upper profile of the skirting. Also ridiculous because the first step of this process is to 45 mitre it so just stop there. Yes not all rooms are perfectly square so either fill the gap with caulk if your painting it or if your leaving it as natural wood just sand the rear of the 45° edge down a little if you have slight gap towards the front & vice versa if you have a gap at the back.
Get some saws bud.