Adam, you are teaching so many people how to fix stuff, and it's amazing. I have always fixed as much stuff as I could. I have accumulated tools and skills over the years, and this Christmas I jumped in with both feet and bought an 11x36 Sheldon lathe from 1939/40.
You need a sign on the wall,"I fix MY mistakes for free. Fixing YOUR mistakes is gonna cost ya". Then you tell them to bring it to you first next time. You da BOMB, man.
"Picking threads out" is sooo satisfying. I can't really explain it, but when I get a sliver in my hand and work on til it comes out.... oh yeah, it's like that! By the way, the previous video showing a flange needing a broach plug and key cut was one of the finest finishes and made us step our own game up. So... thanks Adam.
Thanks a ton for all your videos. Sometimes when I'm working on gear, I feel like I'm pissing in the wind, and it's more trouble than it's worth. Thanks to your videos, I see that it's par for the course and I shall persevere!
Adam, just a quick note about the IR thermometer. What it sees is a cone, not a dot like the laser implies. The angle of the cone should be printed on the thermometer itself. If you look closely you will see that at a distance of a foot away it is actually seeing a large area including the vise and surrounding material. The thermometer averages the temperature and you get a very inaccurate reading. I put a video up on just this subject a few years ago. It's a good idea to get as close to the surface as possible with the thermometer in order to get an accurate reading. Enjoyed the video very much.
I own a powdercoating business and use the same IR gun. I can tell you from shooing parts like wheels lets say that have narrow spokes, lug nut holes in the center of wheels, and so on. Where if you aim the dot at say the center hub of a wheel where it has the most mass which will take longer to get up to temp in my oven, the cone will partially be on the wheel surface and some of it will be shooting past the wheel and hitting the oven wall a few feet away. Which in your head makes you think its not an accurate judgment of temp, but from actual readings from inches away to a few feet away, it honestly doesn't fluctuate enough to matter. its not like 6 inches from the wheel and getting all of the wheel in the 'beam' will say 385deg and then I step back a country mile and all of a sudden its reading 265... its honestly +/- 5-10 deg max. Now, that being said, the Kline IR gun Adam and I have, honestly, sucks. The reflectivity of the coating or the color makes the temp reading swing a country mile. Satin black reads the most accurate, gloss black would be next, silver or 'chrome' powder base is a mile off from actual PMT (part metal temp), white is pretty bad too, other 'darker' colors are somewhere in the middle. Not to mention mine is over 35-40% off! I can coat a thin metal outlet cover (I shoot these as demo swatches for people to see and feel the powdercoating colors) which will get up to part metal temperature in minutes where an alloy 20" wheel might take 45-50 minutes... I hang the outlet cover an inch away from my thermocoupler which feeds oven temp to my PID oven controller and where my PID reads 400 deg in the oven, 20 minutes later my outlet cover would have undoubtedly been fully up to temp and it reads 285 with the Kline IR gun 2 inches from it or 2 feet from it! Its incrementally off from what I have tested and found, so bad that I have a chart I made with IR gun temp = PMT written out on the side of the oven! I am too lazy to toss it in the garbage and get a better one because I adapted to it at this point. My thermocoupler is dead on, and I verified PMT with clip on K type thermocouplers too. I don't know if I just got a bum IR gun or they are all that shitty from Kline. On this casting video I would have like to see a few temperature pens used then shoot the line where it drew and melted out on part with the IR gun to compare the results.
I use mine for measuring temperatures on the drum of my coffee roaster. I also have a contact thermometer that is calibrated so I can check against the IR thermometer. In my case the difference betwee 1" away and 6" away from the drum is enormous. At 1" the reading is very close to the measurement of the contact thermometer, at 6" it is lower by about 40%. This is on an 8" drum at about 200 °C.
I use the same Kline gun. Bruce is correct about the cone. If you look at the side of the gun, it tells you how big the spot is based on how far away the gun is from the surface.
I miss working in the machine shop. never a dull moment not knowing what will walk through the door. Neat repair job. Thanks for sharing your life skills.
One of my compressors uses the very pump this head goes on. It's an oldie but never looses compression power, VERY well built compressor from Kellogg American. I had to rebuild my head, required special tools I had to manufacture to change the ring valves. Other compressors come and go, this one never dies.
We all have our own ways of doing things, I was taught by my Father to weld like you suffer from parkinsons, it works well for me but hey we all find our own way. Thank you for another great video Adam. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
TIG with nickel wire is my favorite method for repairing cast iron. The nickel rod flows really nice and you get the precise heat control of the TIG torch. This is the first video I've seen using it. Most cast iron repair videos are with brazing, which is a perfectly good technique. The configuration of the part determines which method is best.
very nice and reliable repair, brother adam! the fittings are rather standard type: the head side is npt 1/2". and outer side is compression style fitting for gasses s.a. lpg. thanks for the vid. -toly
I enjoy all your videos very much, this one was no different. Very nice. I kept feeling like I wanted to see you drill a hole at the end of that crack though. I was surprised you didn't.
Those fittings look like 1/2" npt x 1/2" or 5/8" flair fitting. Used for connecting copper with galvanized pipe. At least in the gas industry. Great video, Adam
Nice repair, I use the same method to repair "non repairable " antique harley heads and ford flathead blocks and yes, i am indeed a glutton for punishment.Love the channel.
Just started watching your channel, did not know you were local to northwest florida till you mentioned pensacola rubber. Then i looked at your about page. I for some reason, find that cool.
I had a similar problem with my air compressor, but the parts were a lot smaller. I managed to grind some groves into the thread with my hobby tool and then I could use a large screwdriver to turn it loose. I guess that I was lucky that it came out without damaging the original threads and without expensive machines. But when you tighten those too much they can easily break of. I learned a lesson when it happened :-)
We call it a ball because it is shape like a ball. I machine from 1" to 2" flared adapters and couplings on my line. That is a smaller fitting it's done on a smaller machine. We also make the tube nuts for them as well.
There is thread sealing product for sealing loose fitting threads, it is called Expando, and comes in powered form that is mixed with water to form a paste. And I would like to say thanks for the vids, much better than the crap that is on tv.
When doing welding videos, you should also put a piece of welding glass in front of the camera. The CCD inside the camera can be damaged by the arc from the welder, which will show up as spots in the picture that get stuck as some color.
kellogg compressor I just ran into a couple of them that were not in service would have taken then but both were not easy to get out were the same model and a 2 serial numbers off of each unit found out doth were put in the building band build around them out was in a basement and they build the build then the other was on an upper maze floor part of the roof truss amazing how they put it in to the trusses the have photos of them with the compressor hanging on a cran and the putting the truss was the compressor is today the machine I was working on I had to rewire the machine before any repairs we had to do the machine had been on fire in the 70's and they did not use it due to it kept catching fire all new wiring and the machine working we did a full refit on the machine 6-month work and its working wonderful again had to relevel the frames and rails in the machine lot of time doing in in the field
I have been using Loctite 567 on compressor fittings. Good StufF ! 2 issue It take a long time to completely cure. Over 24 hours in cool weather. Once cured, you will DESTROY a brass or aluminum fitting trying to undo it if you do not heat the fitting first.
I don't know about the US but I those 1/2 inch to 2/4 inch fittings (and several similar) are readily available at most hardware stores in Australia (and yes we still use Imperial measurements for most pipe fittings)
Standard parts - in my hardware store. Threads need filling like said so they don't bottom out and get torqued and break the iron to seal. Good job. Suspect task was not to make it pretty - just save the part if possible. Nice job.
I am trying to learn as a machinist what is worth messing with. At one point in this project I was asking myself If the repair was quicker than casting and tapping a brand new part. I come across this all the time when what I am working on, I am wondering if I can make new from stock in the amount of time it takes me to do the repair on the old part.
I love the shards that burr mills/ rotary files create. it feels so good when the grinders exhaust blows them all over your clothes and neck and bounce off your face shield or goggles. then in your sheets at home and shoes. mm mm good
Good job Adam. I used to work for a hydraulic franchise & the fittings look like NPT on the outside but could be a BSP taper on the other end?? Have seen these before, especially on English compressors. Any hydraulic shop will have replacements, at least they do in NZ.
I was going to ask when an area is repaired using the nickel rod does it make it in that area hard? If you had to tap the repaired area would it be more difficult? Thanks for the video more great projects!
The fittings could be bronze but that's not typical. Most likely they're brass. The one you were holding up looks like a compression fitting and the other a flare. Too bad you can't get John Crane plastic lead seal any more. That would be the best sealer if you can find it.
Been watching your candle for a while, like watching a good craftsman, you can always learn something. The reason I'm commenting which I normally don't do, it because I'll saw something you might be interested in. I don't know where you're from but I was looking on the site called govdeals for Danville Virginia. Government surplus site. They are selling all kinds of lathes, milling machines etc from a closed down machine shop. Most bids open for 500 bucks or less, no one was bidding when I was looking. Thought you might be interested. It Eli I enjoy your videos
One way of doing fittings like that is even if they're small ones I will grind down the hatch low blade to fit in the hole and I will cut a slot on one side and maybe slot on two other sides and I will take a chisel I mean if punch and then I will punch the broken pieces will come loose and come out and then tap the hole and in you still have a crack to repair
Using a hacksaw blade cut 4 opposing slots down the length of the broken off fitting just deep enough to see the casting. Drift and pick out the fitting, chase the threads and replace fitting with plenty of Teflon tape, then pipe dope. I'd have her ready to chooch quicker than you could get back with the part. No disassembly required.
Adam, Looks good. One Question. were you concerned about hardening the cast iron adjacent to the weld and eventually cracking, and how do you decide whether to weld or braze? I love watching all the videos keep up the good work.
Adam, you are teaching so many people how to fix stuff, and it's amazing. I have always fixed as much stuff as I could. I have accumulated tools and skills over the years, and this Christmas I jumped in with both feet and bought an 11x36 Sheldon lathe from 1939/40.
Hi Buddy. Your one talented guy 😀 It's fantastic that you're sharing these projects on TH-cam 👍🏻😎🇬🇧
I appreciate your taking the time to make videos of your work. I know it slows you down but it is so great to see your workmanship. Thank you.
You need a sign on the wall,"I fix MY mistakes for free. Fixing YOUR mistakes is gonna cost ya". Then you tell them to bring it to you first next time. You da BOMB, man.
Reminds me of the slogan on a handyman's van. "I repair what other people 'fixed'."
I love watching a man with a lot of tools and knows how to use those tools. Great video, good repair job you did there !
"Picking threads out" is sooo satisfying. I can't really explain it, but when I get a sliver in my hand and work on til it comes out.... oh yeah, it's like that! By the way, the previous video showing a flange needing a broach plug and key cut was one of the finest finishes and made us step our own game up. So... thanks Adam.
...and he used a Harbor Freight pick LOL...I have that same set. LOL.
Thanks a ton for all your videos. Sometimes when I'm working on gear, I feel like I'm pissing in the wind, and it's more trouble than it's worth. Thanks to your videos, I see that it's par for the course and I shall persevere!
Hey Adam, i follow your work for over a year now. In my opinion, you're getting better and better! Amazing work! Best regards from Germany, Kevin
Adam, just a quick note about the IR thermometer. What it sees is a cone, not a dot like the laser implies. The angle of the cone should be printed on the thermometer itself. If you look closely you will see that at a distance of a foot away it is actually seeing a large area including the vise and surrounding material. The thermometer averages the temperature and you get a very inaccurate reading. I put a video up on just this subject a few years ago. It's a good idea to get as close to the surface as possible with the thermometer in order to get an accurate reading. Enjoyed the video very much.
I own a powdercoating business and use the same IR gun. I can tell you from shooing parts like wheels lets say that have narrow spokes, lug nut holes in the center of wheels, and so on. Where if you aim the dot at say the center hub of a wheel where it has the most mass which will take longer to get up to temp in my oven, the cone will partially be on the wheel surface and some of it will be shooting past the wheel and hitting the oven wall a few feet away. Which in your head makes you think its not an accurate judgment of temp, but from actual readings from inches away to a few feet away, it honestly doesn't fluctuate enough to matter. its not like 6 inches from the wheel and getting all of the wheel in the 'beam' will say 385deg and then I step back a country mile and all of a sudden its reading 265... its honestly +/- 5-10 deg max. Now, that being said, the Kline IR gun Adam and I have, honestly, sucks. The reflectivity of the coating or the color makes the temp reading swing a country mile. Satin black reads the most accurate, gloss black would be next, silver or 'chrome' powder base is a mile off from actual PMT (part metal temp), white is pretty bad too, other 'darker' colors are somewhere in the middle. Not to mention mine is over 35-40% off! I can coat a thin metal outlet cover (I shoot these as demo swatches for people to see and feel the powdercoating colors) which will get up to part metal temperature in minutes where an alloy 20" wheel might take 45-50 minutes... I hang the outlet cover an inch away from my thermocoupler which feeds oven temp to my PID oven controller and where my PID reads 400 deg in the oven, 20 minutes later my outlet cover would have undoubtedly been fully up to temp and it reads 285 with the Kline IR gun 2 inches from it or 2 feet from it! Its incrementally off from what I have tested and found, so bad that I have a chart I made with IR gun temp = PMT written out on the side of the oven! I am too lazy to toss it in the garbage and get a better one because I adapted to it at this point. My thermocoupler is dead on, and I verified PMT with clip on K type thermocouplers too. I don't know if I just got a bum IR gun or they are all that shitty from Kline. On this casting video I would have like to see a few temperature pens used then shoot the line where it drew and melted out on part with the IR gun to compare the results.
I use mine for measuring temperatures on the drum of my coffee roaster. I also have a contact thermometer that is calibrated so I can check against the IR thermometer. In my case the difference betwee 1" away and 6" away from the drum is enormous. At 1" the reading is very close to the measurement of the contact thermometer, at 6" it is lower by about 40%. This is on an 8" drum at about 200 °C.
same Kline ir gun? I will have to shoot a video experimenting with mine next batch of parts I toss in.
I actually have a Kline and two other ones and they all show about the same characteristics. It makes sense when you look at the cone.
I use the same Kline gun. Bruce is correct about the cone. If you look at the side of the gun, it tells you how big the spot is based on how far away the gun is from the surface.
I miss working in the machine shop. never a dull moment not knowing what will walk through the door. Neat repair job. Thanks for sharing your life skills.
+greasydot What I love about the job shop, it's a nice variety.
your videos are so relaxing to watch, and informative
we all appreciate the time you take to make them man
One of my compressors uses the very pump this head goes on. It's an oldie but never looses compression power, VERY well built compressor from Kellogg American. I had to rebuild my head, required special tools I had to manufacture to change the ring valves. Other compressors come and go, this one never dies.
how do you get the valves out? Special tools?
@Mike Williams I made a tool with a piece of pipe and a grinder with a cutting disk.
@@mythril4 I will give that a try!
Just did one today, nice design
Nothing better, then to watch a craftsmen apply his knowledge and skills.
If I squint I can see me doing that quality repair!
You're like the dentist of thread repair
We all have our own ways of doing things, I was taught by my Father to weld like you suffer from parkinsons, it works well for me but hey we all find our own way. Thank you for another great video Adam. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Bravo !
A heavy-duty machinist with a light touch.
Nice to see someone actually use a grinder with the guard and handle still on there. You don’t have to take it off, it’s there for a very good reason.
A whole bunch of people are going to tell you that the fittings look like standard mpt x male flare adapters. Great video as usual Adam!
Every time I watch one of your videos, I'm impressed
Very nice. Like it when the thread pieces can be peeled out. Like the depth of grind too. Well done Sir.
TIG with nickel wire is my favorite method for repairing cast iron. The nickel rod flows really nice and you get the precise heat control of the TIG torch. This is the first video I've seen using it. Most cast iron repair videos are with brazing, which is a perfectly good technique. The configuration of the part determines which method is best.
Adam,
Glad you have the fume extractor because that stuff is no good to breathe in!
Great TIG job.
Thanks for the video.
very nice and reliable repair, brother adam!
the fittings are rather standard type: the head side is npt 1/2". and outer side is compression style fitting for gasses s.a. lpg.
thanks for the vid.
-toly
Standard flair fitting. Nothing special at all.
I enjoy all your videos very much, this one was no different. Very nice. I kept feeling like I wanted to see you drill a hole at the end of that crack though. I was surprised you didn't.
Nice elegant repair showing a range of skills. Thanks for the video!
Very cool. Really like watching you work, always interesting to watch someone who is a really great craftsman apply their trade.
Those fittings look like 1/2" npt x 1/2" or 5/8" flair fitting. Used for connecting copper with galvanized pipe. At least in the gas industry. Great video, Adam
Love watching these repairs. Learning as I go.
Great job, Adam. You laid down a fine looking weld. You are a skilled cfratsman.
Excellent repair and tricks of the trade. You now have a new subscriber
Love these "fix it" jobs Adam, keep them coming
Very cool. You always seem to come up with unique and interesting things.
Very good repair, I enjoyed watching you fix this. I respect your iron welding and need to learn how to nickel weld cast iron.
Nice repair, I use the same method to repair "non repairable " antique harley heads and ford flathead blocks and yes, i am indeed a glutton for punishment.Love the channel.
Cool episode! You're quite the Craftsman Adam.
Just started watching your channel, did not know you were local to northwest florida till you mentioned pensacola rubber. Then i looked at your about page. I for some reason, find that cool.
PPP: Patient - Passionate and Perfectionnist... Really a pleasure to watch.
2:30 ABOM TORQUE
Awesome videos. Love watching them
I had a similar problem with my air compressor, but the parts were a lot smaller. I managed to grind some groves into the thread with my hobby tool and then I could use a large screwdriver to turn it loose. I guess that I was lucky that it came out without damaging the original threads and without expensive machines. But when you tighten those too much they can easily break of. I learned a lesson when it happened :-)
I like easy-outs for this type of problem. Awesome professional-grade fume extractor.
Every second video of yours I watch,has sirens in the background!!
You make it look so easy. Nice job adam
getter out an repair. learning every time I watch. good job.
That fitting is a flared adapter 1/2 flared x 1/2 NPT. We make them where I work at Lee Brass.
The "flared" end appears to be spherical versus standard 45 degree flare though.
We call it a ball because it is shape like a ball. I machine from 1" to 2" flared adapters and couplings on my line. That is a smaller fitting it's done on a smaller machine. We also make the tube nuts for them as well.
Jimmy.. is that ball fitting a standard in any particular industry. ?
+Doug Bourdo 1/2"flared× male adapter is what called on the print.
Is it also considered 1/2 inch NPT to 1/2 inch JIC fitting?
There is thread sealing product for sealing loose fitting threads, it is called Expando, and comes in powered form that is mixed with water to form a paste. And I would like to say thanks for the vids, much better than the crap that is on tv.
+ken cunningham Thanks Ken
lazy day watching great vijaos . great repair Adam
nice job adam
+Andy Coakes Thanks Andy!
Those fittings look like half inch npt to 3/4 male flare. It shouldn't be hard to find one.
Nice and quick repair.
That's a Top Engineer right there..
To remove a broken off thread like that, cut with a hacksaw blade until you see base metal and peel out with a chisel , Works every time!
Man I really like your videos and your work.
Great work, looks good ready to go back into service !!!!!
Mad Skilz. Every time I try to do something like that I end up on eBay looking for a replacement/used part!
+dkroth Everytime? You learn from mistakes bud. 👍🏻
Adam, looks like you created the Abom Trench when you ground out that crack. lol
Interesting repair. Keep on keeping on.
Great job Adam!! Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing.
I have a die grinder like that and a 1-2 foot, thin rubber exhaust sleeve combined with a whip hose makes them much quieter, even comfortable.
Makes it look so easy. We have an M1 Tank we are working on at ft.hood and cant get a broken stud out of the final drive gear for the track.
Great job Adam.
When doing welding videos, you should also put a piece of welding glass in front of the camera. The CCD inside the camera can be damaged by the arc from the welder, which will show up as spots in the picture that get stuck as some color.
Wow, awesome, you are a great 👍 craftsman !!
Nice repair, Adam.
A trip to the local hydraulic supply store should get him the right fitting.
Some NAPA stores have them.
Thanks,
John
The place I mentioned is a good source for hose and fittings
+Abom79
Sorry, I guess I missed that one.
Oh well. Not having a good day anyway.
Thanks Adam.
Nice work as always.
John
You Really do a Good Job
Best regards from Berlin Pankow
You make some kick ass videos my friend!! 👊🏼👊🏼👊🏼👊🏼
Thanks Rooster!
Multiple passes in the crack area, just how I like it
Nice job Adam!
+Brian Streufert Thanks Brian!
That's a Kellogg 321tv and that fitting is a 1/2 by JIC male adapter. They have them at the Parker store if anyone needs the info.
It is not a flared fitting
kellogg compressor I just ran into a couple of them that were not in service would have taken then but both were not easy to get out were the same model and a 2 serial numbers off of each unit found out doth were put in the building band build around them out was in a basement and they build the build then the other was on an upper maze floor part of the roof truss amazing how they put it in to the trusses the have photos of them with the compressor hanging on a cran and the putting the truss was the compressor is today
the machine I was working on I had to rewire the machine before any repairs we had to do the machine had been on fire in the 70's and they did not use it due to it kept catching fire
all new wiring and the machine working we did a full refit on the machine 6-month work and its working wonderful again had to relevel the frames and rails in the machine lot of time doing in in the field
I have been using Loctite 567 on compressor fittings. Good StufF ! 2 issue
It take a long time to completely cure. Over 24 hours in cool weather.
Once cured, you will DESTROY a brass or aluminum fitting trying to undo it if you do not heat the fitting first.
theoldwizard998
The
Hope move goes well on shaper . Good video.
I don't know about the US but I those 1/2 inch to 2/4 inch fittings (and several similar) are readily available at most hardware stores in Australia (and yes we still use Imperial measurements for most pipe fittings)
Interesting as always Adam Thanks
Standard parts - in my hardware store. Threads need filling like said so they don't bottom out and get torqued and break the iron to seal. Good job. Suspect task was not to make it pretty - just save the part if possible. Nice job.
Awesome job adam . Thumbs up man !
Another great video and job by the master. :)
very good , nice , good jobb Adam .
I am trying to learn as a machinist what is worth messing with. At one point in this project I was asking myself If the repair was quicker than casting and tapping a brand new part. I come across this all the time when what I am working on, I am wondering if I can make new from stock in the amount of time it takes me to do the repair on the old part.
Great vid. Fittings may be found at a tractor supply of farm implement store
Thanks for the video Adam.
I love the shards that burr mills/ rotary files create. it feels so good when the grinders exhaust blows them all over your clothes and neck and bounce off your face shield or goggles. then in your sheets at home and shoes. mm mm good
U seem like u are loosing weight!!! Good for you!!! i'm not a machinist but i like your videos :)
You do damn good work, thanks for the video.
Good job Adam. I used to work for a hydraulic franchise & the fittings look like NPT on the outside but could be a BSP taper on the other end?? Have seen these before, especially on English compressors. Any hydraulic shop will have replacements, at least they do in NZ.
hi Adam you should be president as you get things fixed regards from London england
I was going to ask when an area is repaired using the nickel rod does it make it in that area hard? If you had to tap the repaired area would it be more difficult? Thanks for the video more great projects!
nice work!!!
Just cashews and beer tonight ...
Need to get wife to buy more chicken pot pies.
The fittings could be bronze but that's not typical. Most likely they're brass. The one you were holding up looks like a compression fitting and the other a flare. Too bad you can't get John Crane plastic lead seal any more. That would be the best sealer if you can find it.
Greetings from Nz! Another wicked video bro. I believe those are 'AN' fittings. Fragola and red horse do a range of them
+Tony Seth I do too, or JIC. I don't recall seeing any being machined round though.
Not sure if you've noticed, but your water cooled torch leaks at the base
+Chris Licata Sure have, even mentioned it s few times on video myself.
That's friggin' artwork. :P
Been watching your candle for a while, like watching a good craftsman, you can always learn something. The reason I'm commenting which I normally don't do, it because I'll saw something you might be interested in. I don't know where you're from but I was looking on the site called govdeals for Danville Virginia. Government surplus site. They are selling all kinds of lathes, milling machines etc from a closed down machine shop. Most bids open for 500 bucks or less, no one was bidding when I was looking. Thought you might be interested. It Eli I enjoy your videos
One way of doing fittings like that is even if they're small ones I will grind down the hatch low blade to fit in the hole and I will cut a slot on one side and maybe slot on two other sides and I will take a chisel I mean if punch and then I will punch the broken pieces will come loose and come out and then tap the hole and in you still have a crack to repair
You can get that fitting at a local refrigeration supply.And use leak lock.
Brother, love all the videos. When are we gonna address the fact you sound like Luke Bryant? LOL
Very understandable & concise.....
If I'm correct I believe this is the video I found you from,
very nice work sir.
Using a hacksaw blade cut 4 opposing slots down the length of the broken off fitting just deep enough to see the casting. Drift and pick out the fitting, chase the threads and replace fitting with plenty of Teflon tape, then pipe dope.
I'd have her ready to chooch quicker than you could get back with the part. No disassembly required.
+ipissed That's what I'm talking about, armchair quarterback!
good job Adam?. I hope that vise had another jaws on it the way you was clamping on the gasket surface.
I didn't clamp hard enough to mare the surface, plus my jaws aren't aggressive anymore.
How do you keep the cast from not Cracking ?
pre-heat
That's what I was thinking, a bit of 50x50 (2“X2" for the yanks) Ali angle is cheap and easy
Looks like it should be back to pumping air!
Adam, Looks good. One Question. were you concerned about hardening the cast iron adjacent to the weld and eventually cracking, and how do you decide whether to weld or braze? I love watching all the videos keep up the good work.
Sometimes depends on the size of the part. Larger parts I typically like to braze. This one I didn't want to get too hot because of he valve parts.