A skill that cannot be purchased in a retail store any where on the planet - these skills must be learned and passed on from person to person the way they always have through the centuries! As usual, thank you Mr. Sellers and your crew, for sharing your lifetime of knowledge learned and passed on from your teachers and mentors. Please keep up the good work, we are listening and learning.
I’m currently in the process of cutting new teeth for a 14ppi crosscut carcass saw that I’ve slowly been making. Took a saw plate from a junk saw and completely ground the old teeth to nothing, and have been filing new ones in. The only set tool that I have at the moment is a very old plier-style type, rather then a pistol type, and it does not seem like I would have good success with it in setting these little teeth. Of course an internet search for “setting saw teeth without a set tool” is going to result in a top answer from my favorite teacher and virtual mentor, Mr. Sellers. Thank you so much, I found this one at just the right time!
I had just discovered this idea after literally years of research try to find out how to set teeth without a sawset (because I can't buy one in the country where I live). I found it in a forum comment with a reference to an old woodworking magazine. So glad to see someone actually showing that it works and how to do it.
I don't have a saw set and in the past just bought a new blade when my Bow saw started sticking. Recently bought a new blade and it very quickly began sticking, google brought me here. Tried the technique explained here and it worked brilliantly.
Some saws have very poor blades and cannot be sharpened or set. Those tend to be the very cheap mass produced blades made in China. Buy a good saw that can be reshaped and set and it will last you a life time.
I was only looking to sharpen a couple of hand saws. But I am finding much more than I expected. You are the most thorough teacher of these things I have found. It is so helpful that you explain, and also SHOW, every detail of actually doing the work you're teaching. Thanks for sharing your valuable experience, I am very grateful.
I converted an old Disston saw from 8 point to 10 point using the method you showed in another video. It worked well and, because I don’t have a saw set, I used this method to set the teeth. I discovered that the plate was quite thick relative to the height of the new teeth so it took quite a bit more forceful hammer blows to bend them. I ended up with a pretty subtle set, but the saw cuts beautifully, even if I sometimes have to wax or oil the plate while making longer cuts
Thanks so much Paul! I was looking for the best way to reduce the set on my crosscut tenon (used a setting tool but that gave me much too heavy set) and the end of this video exactly showed me how to do it.
Thanks, Paul. This addresses the problem I am having. I bought a very inexpensive gent's saw with which to practice filing and setting. The jointing and filing went well, but the setting has not. I think this technique will solve the problem. I'll know tomorrow.
I have had a heck of a time with a saw set on 12 TPI saw blades. Can't really see the teeth well when looking straight down through the opening in the set. Newly sharpend saw teeth seem to reflect the light in all directions and I just can't distinguish one tooth from the next one very well. I tried rubbing a magic marker on the teeth, using a blue crayon, white chalk stick, a welders talc chalk stick, none works for me. This method, laying the saw flat on a board solves that issue for me. It is then easy to move consistently from tooth to tooth. Many thanks for the time and expense you go through to produce these videos. I find them very valuable information.
Have also used a block of steel to back up the blade. The bevel filed on it, combined with the teeth being aligned with the edge, gives precisely the set you want. Afterwards, I like to lay a sheet or so of paper on the blade, lay a fine oilstone on that, and take one pass over the teeth to even out and square off the tips. Cuts are a lot less fuzzy that way.
if it's dull and too fine to sharpen it, you can file/grind away the fine teeth and give it a little coarser tooth size or you can recycle the blade into scrapers
outstanding and informative I Truly feel the Best part of your channel is that You have Never, at least to my knowledge Tried to Sell me some Sponsored Tool of the like. Thank You sharing you knowledge.
Hi Paul - you mention this process is suited for small saws - is it any different for big ones? I have a 1.3m, 2 man buck saw, with triangular teeth, and sometimes it's blocking in the cut - I suspect some teeth are over-set, and I'd like to redo the tooth set.
Hello Paul, Could you recommend a saw for cutting cherry wood stock. The wood is as tough as nails and seems to blunt my saw within minutes. Any help would be appreciated.
What type of saw are you looking for, Andi? Panel saw, tenon saw, dovetail saw? If you're looking for a rigid back saw, let me recommend Bad Axe Saws out of LaCrosse, WI USA...Google Bad Axe Saw and you'll get Mark's website immediately. I've got two of his and they last through the tough stuff! He doesn't give 'em away but I've had excellent results that last...as far as a panel saw goes, I'd recommend going on Ebay and picking up an old Disston...they're abundant and affordable and will last your lifetime. I like the D-8 but that isn't the only one that's good...be sure to get one "pre-war." I think the 1920's were the best overall...hope this helps you out.
Lbhunter63 Thank you so much for your help. I have a panel (10" x 10" x 4") that I need to cut in half, to achieve 10" x 10" x 1 1/2",. I pushed through with my old saw and it took much longer than it should, however when I come to do this again I would love a good reliable saw that will do the job. I will look into your recommendations.
HI Paul, I have a saw of which I am unsure wether it is still symmetrically set. Before freshly setting the saw I have the feeling that I should get rid of the existing set on the teeth, would you file it from the side or use the hammering technique until it's flat? Thanks, I really enjoy learning the saw sharpening. Tobias
it looked like some of the teeth you were hitting were angled up, and others angled down. Is that just a misjudgment of which teeth to tap, or was that on purpose?
just posted this on your website, but thought people here may have runt into this similar situation: I’m restoring an old Sandvik No. 271 rip saw (26″ long, 5 1/2 ppi) When i put in the vice to sharpen, i noticed that the teeth have a slightly convex curve from heel to toe, but it seems fairly uniform. Was this a specific design of the saw, or an error on the part of whomever had been sharpening it previously? Should I sharpen the teeth as-is, or joint the teeth straight from heel to toe first? I can’t find anything about this on the internet, so any insight you could provide would be golden! Thank you!
Cooper is right, Uncle Joe...no reason you can't joint the saw and sharpen normally...as long as you maintain your jointing to full length strokes so you don't shorten some teeth more than others. I have a Pax saw that is breasted and this method works fine for me.
Just a quick question. When you lightly tap using the "anvil", aren't you still resetting both sides at once? Even though you're tapping on one side? Thanks, really enjoy your videos. :)
That was my (only!) question too. I can't see any harm at all in turning to the second side ~ it just seems it's already been done? I like this video a lot.
Hi! I have an old keyhole saw that I sharpened but still it binds. The blade is about one millimeter thick and teeth are small and short. I tried to set them with a pin punch and hammer, but the blade is too thick. So how do I set the teeth on this saw?
Disclaimer: The actions in this video are performed by expert. He makes it seem very easy. Do not try this at home on your own saw. ................. LoL.
It's a shame that we have to constantly interrupt the flow of information because only people in the US and nowhere else in the English speaking world want to use different words for everything which often don't even make sense, like calling the tenon saw a "back saw".
A skill that cannot be purchased in a retail store any where on the planet - these skills must be learned and passed on from person to person the way they always have through the centuries! As usual, thank you Mr. Sellers and your crew, for sharing your lifetime of knowledge learned and passed on from your teachers and mentors. Please keep up the good work, we are listening and learning.
I’m currently in the process of cutting new teeth for a 14ppi crosscut carcass saw that I’ve slowly been making. Took a saw plate from a junk saw and completely ground the old teeth to nothing, and have been filing new ones in. The only set tool that I have at the moment is a very old plier-style type, rather then a pistol type, and it does not seem like I would have good success with it in setting these little teeth. Of course an internet search for “setting saw teeth without a set tool” is going to result in a top answer from my favorite teacher and virtual mentor, Mr. Sellers. Thank you so much, I found this one at just the right time!
This video is exactly what I was looking for. It is an excellent presentation. Thank you. Iowa, USA
I had just discovered this idea after literally years of research try to find out how to set teeth without a sawset (because I can't buy one in the country where I live).
I found it in a forum comment with a reference to an old woodworking magazine.
So glad to see someone actually showing that it works and how to do it.
I don't have a saw set and in the past just bought a new blade when my Bow saw started sticking. Recently bought a new blade and it very quickly began sticking, google brought me here. Tried the technique explained here and it worked brilliantly.
Some saws have very poor blades and cannot be sharpened or set. Those tend to be the very cheap mass produced blades made in China.
Buy a good saw that can be reshaped and set and it will last you a life time.
I was only looking to sharpen a couple of hand saws. But I am finding much more than I expected. You are the most thorough teacher of these things I have found. It is so helpful that you explain, and also SHOW, every detail of actually doing the work you're teaching.
Thanks for sharing your valuable experience, I am very grateful.
As usual, Paul is straightforward and a very good instructor. Thanks for sharing your knowledge over the years. Regards from Minnesota, USA. Phil
I absolutely loved this! I don't own saw set pliers... Thank you Sir!
Hi Paul from the USA. Another fine video, thanks again.👍🏼😉
I converted an old Disston saw from 8 point to 10 point using the method you showed in another video. It worked well and, because I don’t have a saw set, I used this method to set the teeth. I discovered that the plate was quite thick relative to the height of the new teeth so it took quite a bit more forceful hammer blows to bend them. I ended up with a pretty subtle set, but the saw cuts beautifully, even if I sometimes have to wax or oil the plate while making longer cuts
So meat and potatoes with your videos I love it. Thank you for doing what you do!!
Simple and brilliant. Thanks Paul.
Thanks so much Paul! I was looking for the best way to reduce the set on my crosscut tenon (used a setting tool but that gave me much too heavy set) and the end of this video exactly showed me how to do it.
You're a true craftsman I love your videos
Thanks, Paul. This addresses the problem I am having. I bought a very inexpensive gent's saw with which to practice filing and setting. The jointing and filing went well, but the setting has not. I think this technique will solve the problem. I'll know tomorrow.
I have had a heck of a time with a saw set on 12 TPI saw blades. Can't really see the teeth well when looking straight down through the opening in the set. Newly sharpend saw teeth seem to reflect the light in all directions and I just can't distinguish one tooth from the next one very well. I tried rubbing a magic marker on the teeth, using a blue crayon, white chalk stick, a welders talc chalk stick, none works for me. This method, laying the saw flat on a board solves that issue for me. It is then easy to move consistently from tooth to tooth. Many thanks for the time and expense you go through to produce these videos. I find them very valuable information.
The board gives it a contrast.
Have also used a block of steel to back up the blade. The bevel filed on it, combined with the teeth being aligned with the edge, gives precisely the set you want. Afterwards, I like to lay a sheet or so of paper on the blade, lay a fine oilstone on that, and take one pass over the teeth to even out and square off the tips. Cuts are a lot less fuzzy that way.
Hi there from Portugal,
Another Nice video!
Obrigado(Thanks)
I really need this - thanks for the video.
Thank you Paul! I wrote in about this quite a while ago and really appreciate you doing a video on it! Mike
I have never been able to use a saw set on a fine (14 TPI) saw. Now I can set the teeth!
if it's dull and too fine to sharpen it, you can file/grind away the fine teeth and give it a little coarser tooth size or you can recycle the blade into scrapers
outstanding and informative I Truly feel the Best part of your channel is that You have Never, at least to my knowledge Tried to Sell me some Sponsored Tool of the like. Thank You sharing you knowledge.
Great thank you.
He just casually saws dovetails just to test the saw. Absolutely legendary
Such great videos! Just subscribed. Thank you!
Can you do this with a thick metal cutting saw?
Thanks
Works for larger tooth saws too!!!!!
hi paul!!! can you teach us how to make a spokeshave?? please ,thanks you are the best!!!!
Prezado sr Paul, poderia ativar a legenda em português para podermos acompanhar suas aulas, Obrigado!
Mas alguém tem que traduzir, não basta 'ativar'... E chefe, essa 'aula' foi bem auto-explicativa, não? Abraço.
Hi Paul, very informative. Is it worth it to learn how to use this approach on the small anvil that the Japanese (apparently) use to set their saws?
Hi Paul - you mention this process is suited for small saws - is it any different for big ones?
I have a 1.3m, 2 man buck saw, with triangular teeth, and sometimes it's blocking in the cut - I suspect some teeth are over-set, and I'd like to redo the tooth set.
You can do it the same way however a sawset would be more accurate.
that looks like a nice saw. Where could I find one like it?
Hello Sir, should i set my saw tooth (rip and crosscut saw}? And if it is, when the ideal to set the saw tooth before or after sharpening the tooth?
Hello Paul, Could you recommend a saw for cutting cherry wood stock. The wood is as tough as nails and seems to blunt my saw within minutes. Any help would be appreciated.
What type of saw are you looking for, Andi? Panel saw, tenon saw, dovetail saw? If you're looking for a rigid back saw, let me recommend Bad Axe Saws out of LaCrosse, WI USA...Google Bad Axe Saw and you'll get Mark's website immediately. I've got two of his and they last through the tough stuff! He doesn't give 'em away but I've had excellent results that last...as far as a panel saw goes, I'd recommend going on Ebay and picking up an old Disston...they're abundant and affordable and will last your lifetime. I like the D-8 but that isn't the only one that's good...be sure to get one "pre-war." I think the 1920's were the best overall...hope this helps you out.
Lbhunter63 Thank you so much for your help. I have a panel (10" x 10" x 4") that I need to cut in half, to achieve 10" x 10" x 1 1/2",. I pushed through with my old saw and it took much longer than it should, however when I come to do this again I would love a good reliable saw that will do the job. I will look into your recommendations.
HI Paul, I have a saw of which I am unsure wether it is still symmetrically set. Before freshly setting the saw I have the feeling that I should get rid of the existing set on the teeth, would you file it from the side or use the hammering technique until it's flat? Thanks, I really enjoy learning the saw sharpening.
Tobias
Hi Tobias. You can use the hammering technique.
So, I guess I should take the saw set off of my Lee Valley/Veritas wishlist.
you are the best
it looked like some of the teeth you were hitting were angled up, and others angled down. Is that just a misjudgment of which teeth to tap, or was that on purpose?
Hi Paul, is this the 10" or the 12" tenon saw from Spear & Jackson?I want to try you work flow but i can't decide which one is better..
just posted this on your website, but thought people here may have runt into this similar situation: I’m restoring an old Sandvik No. 271 rip saw (26″ long, 5 1/2 ppi) When i put in the vice to sharpen, i noticed that the teeth have a slightly convex curve from heel to toe, but it seems fairly uniform. Was this a specific design of the saw, or an error on the part of whomever had been sharpening it previously? Should I sharpen the teeth as-is, or joint the teeth straight from heel to toe first? I can’t find anything about this on the internet, so any insight you could provide would be golden! Thank you!
UncleJoe your saw is "breasted" which is not a problem. I think Paul's previous video addresses it
Cooper is right, Uncle Joe...no reason you can't joint the saw and sharpen normally...as long as you maintain your jointing to full length strokes so you don't shorten some teeth more than others. I have a Pax saw that is breasted and this method works fine for me.
cool, full steam ahead! Thanks guys!!
Just a quick question. When you lightly tap using the "anvil", aren't you still resetting both sides at once? Even though you're tapping on one side? Thanks, really enjoy your videos. :)
That was my (only!) question too. I can't see any harm at all in turning to the second side ~ it just seems it's already been done?
I like this video a lot.
Nice technique, I don't have a saw set yet, will this work even with teeth that are a bit larger?
Jim Barry yes
Great information but it has become a real chore to find any saw that is not impulse hardened.
Hi!
I have an old keyhole saw that I sharpened but still it binds. The blade is about one millimeter thick and teeth are small and short. I tried to set them with a pin punch and hammer, but the blade is too thick. So how do I set the teeth on this saw?
"Safety is number one priority" - Crazy Russian Hacker.
Damn he cut that piece of like it was a power tool
Disclaimer: The actions in this video are performed by expert. He makes it seem very easy. Do not try this at home on your own saw. ................. LoL.
Not true at all.
It's a shame that we have to constantly interrupt the flow of information because only people in the US and nowhere else in the English speaking world want to use different words for everything which often don't even make sense, like calling the tenon saw a "back saw".