@@RobCosmanWoodworking very true. My father was born in 1918 but by the 60s and 70s few DIY'ers never learned the craft of sharpening so he would do that after hours at home. He stopped doing it in the early 80s once cheap disposable handsaws from Stanley flooded the market and sharpening wasn't cost effective anymore. Plus with carbide saw blades coming up more and more, he didn't want to invest in new tools for that. He was well into his 60s by then and his eyes weren't what they used to be.
@@vanshankguitars Agreed. My comment was aimed at making it easier to fit the wood strips at the blade-gripping end. A rabbet would've helped position the strips versus manipulating them while they're sliding around on a film of glue.
Good idea for a DIY saw sharpening jig ,but I'll use 2 strips of 1/8 ×3/4 soft brass on the top inside to hold the saw blades,more rigid for the length,can't damage the saw blade,file, better holding clamping force,reduce vibration, durable,less expansion, Thanks for your idea and plans. I'll keep watching your youtube channel.
Hi Rob, great.video, as usual. When I.learned to sharpen my saws we held the blade a good bit higher in the vise if it needed jointing, mainly because the jig we used to keep the file perpendicular to the saw plate needed to rest against the saw plate. Maybe 3/4” or so. How important is it to keep the file perpendicular to the saw plate?
Your timing for this video was perfect for me. I had just looked at one from sjobergs that list for $80.. I know they make quality items, but at that price I had already decided to make my own. I believe yours is nicer and the steel rod trick will certainly be put to use! Thanks again for sharing you vast wood working knowledge.
you are right, this came as an afterthought instead of cutting out the handle shape from the vise. jaws would not have to have been much thicker, short video however! :)
Rob, Could you put the hinge on the bottom edge of the boards rather than the inner faces? I know it may not be a strong but not a lot of strength is needed here. Mostly to keep the 2 jaws properly oriented to each other.
Thanks, Rob. Very timely. I have a very good vise from GRAMERCY and two Disston vintage vises which generally suffice. I have two 28 inch miter box saws (Stanley 358) I need to sharpen. I’m think this style vise would mean I would not need to move the saw during the job. Do you have any thoughts on this style vise at 28 inches?
Thanks Rob I have a version from Fine Woodworking dvd series of back editions and I believe it was attributed to Tage Frid but there is a measured drawing in Tage Frid teaches woodworking Vol 2 Joinery: tools and techniques
Nice video Rob thank you! Same problem here in UK ! there used to be many old timers who sharpened saws but they have all long gone now. You can still get one sharpened but its usually miles away, don't do them by hand anymore and costs fortune for a machine cut which for vintage tools like I own its just not on. Vintage saws are usually brittle so teeth can snap very easily if care is not taken. My problem has been eye sight which has failed no end but with your video encouragement I decided to purchase something to help with that and make the vice you just described. I suppose same principle for panel saws you just make them wider to suit.
How about making the hardwood strips for the vise jaws thicker so that there is enough space for the handle. Of course you may have to add strips on the bottom as well for the hinges so as not to increase the angle of the panels to much.
Dear Rob. This is a very useful tool ... But I don’t understand how to do the setting on a fine saw tooth later.? I would be very grateful to you if you could show how this is done ...? Thank you very much and take care of yourself there. :)
I have just started watching this video and was surprised that you said that using a drill driver to insert the screws could strip them out.If you set the torque to a low setting, then surely the driver would stop before stripping the hole. Also you proceeded to counter sink the piano hinge holes and then added a strip of wood to the edge.Would that not stop the two pieces closing right up? Maybe I should watch the video to the end to see if it answers my own questions. Like all of your videos, very informative and a pleasure to watch.
How about making the jaws thicker so no handle cut-outs are required, and maintaining the status-quo by adding spacers under the hinges, thus yielding a more parallel angle between the parts that go into the bench vice?
I’m surprised to see you using the table saw miter gage in conjunction with the fence. This is something that I was taught to never do due to the potential for kickback. Can you comment on using this technique please. Big fan of your channel by the way ...
Dale....The critical part is you must maintain control of the wood between the fence and the blaxe. If you dont and it twist you could induce kickback. I can control the wood therefore I can use the fence as a guide. With this cut I needed to support the length with the miter while still maintaining control
Thanks for the tips. I've just been clamping two boards in a moxon vise. Works but I need three hands to get everything level and the teeth at the right depth and then spin two knobs to clamp the vise. Pain in the butt. I'll make this as soon as I'm done with my chisel rack for my new IBC chisels.
Thanks for all the detail based on extensive experience. For most things, a real shoulder vise as you use is nicer than a metal quick release vise with screw and guide bars in the way. Making a Frid saw vise like this is a counterexample: you can leave off both the hinges and the cleats, stand the plywood on the vise bars, and it works fine.
So much easier to add 2 strips at the hinge end, so that the thing closes parallel. That way, no need to plane the slight bevels on the topmost strips. Also, it will clamp properly in the vice, since the outer surfaces of the ply are also parallel.
How could this be adapted to use with a Sjoberg bench vise like you sell for the Cosman bench? Would it be easier to build a Moxon vise to use as a bench accessary? Maybe can be a future video? Thanks!
Hey Rob, I picked up Tage Frid’s books in a 3 book set with dvd on Amazon for approx 65 dollars, after looking through the books and watching a little of the dvd I consider it a steal ! It has footage of he and his grandson doing a glue up of a case. You instantly love the guy ! Kinda like you ;) thanks for letting us know about him in your TH-cam live shows. Great video as always Brother, have a great evening!
dunno if you guys cares but if you're stoned like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the new series on instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my gf for the last days :)
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My dad was one of those who sharpened saws, as well as circular saw blades.
Everyone use to sharpen their own saws
@@RobCosmanWoodworking very true. My father was born in 1918 but by the 60s and 70s few DIY'ers never learned the craft of sharpening so he would do that after hours at home. He stopped doing it in the early 80s once cheap disposable handsaws from Stanley flooded the market and sharpening wasn't cost effective anymore. Plus with carbide saw blades coming up more and more, he didn't want to invest in new tools for that. He was well into his 60s by then and his eyes weren't what they used to be.
Very good idea, i like the simplicity of the design and construction ¡¡¡
You don’t mention it, but couldn’t you also cut out slots to go around the vise screw and bars?
Seems like a shallow rabbet would've helped at both ends of the hinged panels.
Staggering the screws would have worked as well. You don't always need all the screw holes filled for strength.
@@vanshankguitars Agreed. My comment was aimed at making it easier to fit the wood strips at the blade-gripping end. A rabbet would've helped position the strips versus manipulating them while they're sliding around on a film of glue.
@@kennnva551 gotcha!
rob. video is long ago. but what is the reason for the coat hanger hanging on the your router cord. have a goid day.
Me thinks you did not use the screws that came with the hinge.
JIM
Good idea for a DIY saw sharpening jig ,but I'll use 2 strips of 1/8 ×3/4 soft brass on the top inside to hold the saw blades,more rigid for the length,can't damage the saw blade,file, better holding clamping force,reduce vibration, durable,less expansion, Thanks for your idea and plans. I'll keep watching your youtube channel.
Thats a really good idea. Wish I thought of it
Hi Rob, great.video, as usual. When I.learned to sharpen my saws we held the blade a good bit higher in the vise if it needed jointing, mainly because the jig we used to keep the file perpendicular to the saw plate needed to rest against the saw plate. Maybe 3/4” or so. How important is it to keep the file perpendicular to the saw plate?
Yes to joint you do need to position the saw higher in th evise. We have sharpening videos coming soon
23:23 COVID ALERT! ABANDON SHIP!
Your timing for this video was perfect for me. I had just looked at one from sjobergs that list for $80.. I know they make quality items, but at that price I had already decided to make my own. I believe yours is nicer and the steel rod trick will certainly be put to use! Thanks again for sharing you vast wood working knowledge.
Glad I could help
Perfect timing. Just about to embark on my first attempt at resharpening an old Tyzack and Turner saw bought on eBay. Cheers Rob 👍
Glad to help
I think is more simple than routing plywood, to use thicker an a litle wider "jaws" for your saws.
you are right, this came as an afterthought instead of cutting out the handle shape from the vise. jaws would not have to have been much thicker, short video however! :)
Rob, Could you put the hinge on the bottom edge of the boards rather than the inner faces? I know it may not be a strong but not a lot of strength is needed here. Mostly to keep the 2 jaws properly oriented to each other.
If you had made the runners thicket at the to, wouldn’t that prevent the need for scalloping the insides our for the handles?
Thanks, Rob. Very timely. I have a very good vise from GRAMERCY and two Disston vintage vises which generally suffice. I have two 28 inch miter box saws (Stanley 358) I need to sharpen. I’m think this style vise would mean I would not need to move the saw during the job. Do you have any thoughts on this style vise at 28 inches?
Thank you for the great video! What file do you use for sharpening? I can't find the files on your website.
Thanks Rob I have a version from Fine Woodworking dvd series of back editions and I believe it was attributed to Tage Frid but there is a measured drawing in Tage Frid teaches woodworking Vol 2 Joinery: tools and techniques
Nice video Rob thank you! Same problem here in UK ! there used to be many old timers who sharpened saws but they have all long gone now. You can still get one sharpened but its usually miles away, don't do them by hand anymore and costs fortune for a machine cut which for vintage tools like I own its just not on. Vintage saws are usually brittle so teeth can snap very easily if care is not taken. My problem has been eye sight which has failed no end but with your video encouragement I decided to purchase something to help with that and make the vice you just described. I suppose same principle for panel saws you just make them wider to suit.
How about making the hardwood strips for the vise jaws thicker so that there is enough space for the handle. Of course you may have to add strips on the bottom as well for the hinges so as not to increase the angle of the panels to much.
Thats could work
Another great video! Thank-you.....
Rob, I found the Tage Frid video on TH-cam and emailed it to you !
After my shooting board for my new Woodriver #5 1/2 this will be the next project for me. Thanks Rob.
P.S. The Woodriver 5 1/2 is fantastic.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Dear Rob.
This is a very useful tool ...
But I don’t understand how to do the setting on a fine saw tooth later.?
I would be very grateful to you if you could show how this is done ...?
Thank you very much and take care of yourself there. :)
Coming soon!
I have just started watching this video and was surprised that you said that using a drill driver to insert the screws could strip them out.If you set the torque to a low setting, then surely the driver would stop before stripping the hole. Also you proceeded to counter sink the piano hinge holes and then added a strip of wood to the edge.Would that not stop the two pieces closing right up? Maybe I should watch the video to the end to see if it answers my own questions. Like all of your videos, very informative and a pleasure to watch.
Without countersinking they would not close properly even with the two strips of wood. I thought it would but alas was wrong again!
How about making the jaws thicker so no handle cut-outs are required, and maintaining the status-quo by adding spacers under the hinges, thus yielding a more parallel angle between the parts that go into the bench vice?
That could work...give it a try and let me know how it works
I’m surprised to see you using the table saw miter gage in conjunction with the fence. This is something that I was taught to never do due to the potential for kickback. Can you comment on using this technique please. Big fan of your channel by the way ...
Dale....The critical part is you must maintain control of the wood between the fence and the blaxe. If you dont and it twist you could induce kickback. I can control the wood therefore I can use the fence as a guide. With this cut I needed to support the length with the miter while still maintaining control
Thanks for the tips. I've just been clamping two boards in a moxon vise. Works but I need three hands to get everything level and the teeth at the right depth and then spin two knobs to clamp the vise. Pain in the butt. I'll make this as soon as I'm done with my chisel rack for my new IBC chisels.
Glad you found it useful
Nice job on this video Rob would you mind sharing what type of file you would recommend
I like Grobet.....we are working on stocking them. We hope to have them in our store in a month or so
Wish you would have included the name of the woodworker mentioned at the beginning of the video. I would like to look him up.
Tage Frid
Thanks for all the detail based on extensive experience.
For most things, a real shoulder vise as you use is nicer than a metal quick release vise with screw and guide bars in the way. Making a Frid saw vise like this is a counterexample: you can leave off both the hinges and the cleats, stand the plywood on the vise bars, and it works fine.
Yes that wouldwork but as I discussed at the end of the video this design shortened will also work in those vises
So much easier to add 2 strips at the hinge end, so that the thing closes parallel. That way, no need to plane the slight bevels on the topmost strips. Also, it will clamp properly in the vice, since the outer surfaces of the ply are also parallel.
The old ilustration i found in an old instruction book for swedish wood shop teachers was made that way. No hinge just slightly loose screws
Thank you Rob. I have two new to me saw's that need file work and no saw vise. Your saw vise looks less complex than a what the old timers made.
Actually its a Taige Frid design and he is an old timer...but you are correct its very simple, but gets the job done
QUESTION:why dont you put a fence in your shooting board? From the research i have done the pros outweigh the cons
I do have a fence on my shooting board....I dont understand your point. Can you explain please
@@RobCosmanWoodworking a fence on the other side of the plane to keep it tight to the wood
How could this be adapted to use with a Sjoberg bench vise like you sell for the Cosman bench? Would it be easier to build a Moxon vise to use as a bench accessary? Maybe can be a future video?
Thanks!
Dryan I discuss the answer to this very question in the last 2 minutes of the video. Watch it to the end
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Busted! I was watching and working at the same time. Thanks Rob!
Hey Rob, I picked up Tage Frid’s books in a 3 book set with dvd on Amazon for approx 65 dollars, after looking through the books and watching a little of the dvd I consider it a steal ! It has footage of he and his grandson doing a glue up of a case. You instantly love the guy ! Kinda like you ;) thanks for letting us know about him in your TH-cam live shows. Great video as always Brother, have a great evening!
Wow I didnt know they had that on DVD. I am going to golook for it now
@@RobCosmanWoodworking good luck ! I just checked it’s still available on Amazon 64.99. It’s a 3 book set in a sleeve with a dvd .
Great video and very nice project thank you for sharing this Rob
Thanks for watching and commenting
There’s always one yahoo who gives a thumbs down.
who is that guy?
Who is the manufacturer of your preferred saw files?
Grobet...we areworking with them to carry their files
I have got to get some of those small clamps
They are useful
Good stuff and timely as well. Everyone needs to know how to sharpen their own saws.
dunno if you guys cares but if you're stoned like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the new series on instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my gf for the last days :)
@Darius Princeton Definitely, I have been using InstaFlixxer for since november myself =)
@Darius Princeton Yup, I have been watching on InstaFlixxer for years myself :)
Thanks for sharing that!
You bet!
I need to make one of these.
do it and send me a pic
@@RobCosmanWoodworking OK, I like making tools. Right now as we speak I am making a rabbet plane with a fence and depth stop.