I might be wrong but.... I think these are rated for 1W. If you put 15V in and output 5v, that is 10v that has to be dissipated, if you multiply that (10v) by the applied current, say 200mA (0.2A) you get power. So in this example 10 * .2 = 2W. Is that not twice what this chip is designed for? I'm still learning, so feedback on my maths would be much appreciated.
according to the datasheet : Line and Load regulation are guaranteed up to the maximum power dissipation of 1.2 W for SOT-223. in any case im trying to see what happens when you reach their limit..how it behaves..
Your calc are right, he almost reached 2W on dissipation, so they are very good (not bad as described instead) keep them working at 1W max dissipation and they will never die. Dissipation is: (Vin-Vout)*I (for whoever don't know that)
I've used this cheap regulator (the 3.3v version) in one my projects , it's a piece of junk !! It ruined my project thanks to it's enormous heat ! I applied 5v input it worked fine for a week ( the temperature was high but seemed to be ok ) and then boom ! It burned down my main IC which was at the top layer of the pcb and has heatsink on it !! ( regulator was on the button layer ) So if you want my advice, never buy cheap components specially for the power unit of your project. The LM1117 is a better choice.
Did you read the application notes where they say that the output capacitor needed to be tantalum? Also, there is built in protection from thermal overload. Plus, it has the be heat sinked properly, which you did not.
do you often see many tantalum capacitors in cheap chinese products?i dont.most of the times cheap ceramic ones.thats what im testing here.cheap chinese regulators to see how they behave..as for the heatsinking i have heatsink at somepoint of the video which i describe as ''some kind of heatsink''in quotes ....i also say that the caps should be closer to the regulator and not with cables.the original ic's have protection, some of the fakes you cant count on it..
i try to use ams1117 5.0 DN711 , i think this serie may fake. İt cant handle one arduino and hc-06 bluetooth. İt warm up quickly and gives directly output voltage. İts broke down my hc-06
i think its fake then..maybe you should measure the current with a multimeter to see what current the arduino and bluetooth consumes together and then decide what regulator to use..
@@electronics4all Both of them max peak 60mA. After bluetooth paired the current drops 30~35 mA. The main dangeroua thing is ams1117 5.0 gives directly input voltage to the output. Thats crazy when you try your circuit on your car :). Normally an ic fail, it cut off the out put :). I decide to use l7805. It seems much safer than ams1117 5.0 dn711.
@@electronics4all if I will sent you a detailed photographs of the main board- like flight controller, all in one - integrated with esc, you will be able to chose something? You can't find normally proper scheme of the bord, they are mostly based on stm 32 chip
Good vid mate I guess if your designing a circuit well below the max specs of this reg then it should be ok... I imaging the 15v max would be a “spike” rating? I don’t know much about these
no.it cant provide the current that xl4015 does. and the voltage input is max 15v. if you require about 200ma at 5v(a little more with heatsink) with an input of 12v then yes..
Los puedo probar sin los capcitores, solo directo el.positivo a la entrada del circuito y negativo a GND del circuito sin componentes para revisar su salida se voltaje
@@electronics4all I can test them without the caps, just direct the positive to the input of the circuit and negative to the GND of the circuit without components to check their output voltage
Jesus está voltando leiam a Bíblia Sagrada cristã e pratiquem ...aceitem ao Senhor Jesus Cristo quem ainda não aceitou....Ele vos ama muito... Ele quer que todos se arrependam de seus pecados e recebam a vida eterna... através de Jesus temos vida eterna mas sem Jesus é condenação eterna
![How to replace a 5V Regulator (AMS1117) on an Arduino Uno - [Ep. 0001]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NzlzX89vJXQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks buddy it helped me a lot in understanding the real world constraints of this tiny chip
you're welcome.
I might be wrong but.... I think these are rated for 1W. If you put 15V in and output 5v, that is 10v that has to be dissipated, if you multiply that (10v) by the applied current, say 200mA (0.2A) you get power. So in this example 10 * .2 = 2W. Is that not twice what this chip is designed for? I'm still learning, so feedback on my maths would be much appreciated.
according to the datasheet : Line and Load regulation are guaranteed up to the maximum power dissipation of 1.2 W for SOT-223. in any case im trying to see what happens when you reach their limit..how it behaves..
Your calc are right, he almost reached 2W on dissipation, so they are very good (not bad as described instead) keep them working at 1W max dissipation and they will never die.
Dissipation is: (Vin-Vout)*I (for whoever don't know that)
Max power disipation is 1.2w, so if you expect 1a output, difference voltage between in and out cant be over 1.2v.
i know..you're right.
I've used this cheap regulator (the 3.3v version) in one my projects , it's a piece of junk !! It ruined my project thanks to it's enormous heat !
I applied 5v input it worked fine for a week ( the temperature was high but seemed to be ok ) and then boom ! It burned down my main IC which was at the top layer of the pcb and has heatsink on it !! ( regulator was on the button layer )
So if you want my advice, never buy cheap components specially for the power unit of your project.
The LM1117 is a better choice.
you're right..but i wanted to give them a try since i already bought them...
What are other alternatives to this, we got this, but since our usage is like at 90% of rated load, it's getting very hot.
The music sounds like someone building a shed.
haha.i respect your opinion.
I am about to repair an m-audio oxygen25 midi controller and this video helped me alot. Thanks for the info. M-audio uses this cheap regulator
you're welcome.
great !! 💫
Did you read the application notes where they say that the output capacitor needed to be tantalum? Also, there is built in protection from thermal overload. Plus, it has the be heat sinked properly, which you did not.
do you often see many tantalum capacitors in cheap chinese products?i dont.most of the times cheap ceramic ones.thats what im testing here.cheap chinese regulators to see how they behave..as for the heatsinking i have heatsink at somepoint of the video which i describe as ''some kind of heatsink''in quotes ....i also say that the caps should be closer to the regulator and not with cables.the original ic's have protection, some of the fakes you cant count on it..
Ceramic can be used also with a serie resistor to raise the esr of the capacitor, or use a good quality electrolytic, so tantalum is not mandatory.
Keep in mind that these are expecting to sink heat to the board they are mounted to so in open air they cannot handle as much.
you're right..they need good heatsink.
i try to use ams1117 5.0 DN711 , i think this serie may fake. İt cant handle one arduino and hc-06 bluetooth. İt warm up quickly and gives directly output voltage. İts broke down my hc-06
i think its fake then..maybe you should measure the current with a multimeter to see what current the arduino and bluetooth consumes together and then decide what regulator to use..
@@electronics4all Both of them max peak 60mA. After bluetooth paired the current drops 30~35 mA. The main dangeroua thing is ams1117 5.0 gives directly input voltage to the output. Thats crazy when you try your circuit on your car :). Normally an ic fail, it cut off the out put :). I decide to use l7805. It seems much safer than ams1117 5.0 dn711.
Obrigado E nois 👍
thanks.
oohh excelent!, please make a video with the AMS1117-3.3 with the same tests
thanks.at some point i will do..
I see it's best place to ask about sot223 number/model: 8K911- can't find a proper replacement ...
it depends of the requirements of the circuit,input - output voltage,current,etc.
@@electronics4all if I will sent you a detailed photographs of the main board- like flight controller, all in one - integrated with esc, you will be able to chose something? You can't find normally proper scheme of the bord, they are mostly based on stm 32 chip
i have smd regulator 178M15 damage how can i substitute from another one. Is there an alternative?
with the same package i dont think so.if you have space in the device you can use l7815 and connect it with wires and heatsink.
Good vid mate
I guess if your designing a circuit well below the max specs of this reg then it should be ok...
I imaging the 15v max would be a “spike” rating?
I don’t know much about these
thanks my friend.i think you're right.at 15v i wouldn't be that confident about that cheap regulator at least with large current output.
what is the first source? do you use lea as a charge?
i dont know what you mean..first source? lea?
how to get a current at the 250mA output? Thanks
i dont understand what you mean...
capacities are important if I want to connect 22 uF 35 volts
what do you mean? where to connect?
@@electronics4all thanks OK I did it
Can it be used in place of XL4015 as alternative?
no.it cant provide the current that xl4015 does. and the voltage input is max 15v. if you require about 200ma at 5v(a little more with heatsink) with an input of 12v then yes..
@@electronics4all And what about LM2596?
@@DheerajKumar-dk747 LM2596 is like xl4015 but less current(3amp) while XL4015 is 5amps..it depends of what your current needs are.
Los puedo probar sin los capcitores, solo directo el.positivo a la entrada del circuito y negativo a GND del circuito sin componentes para revisar su salida se voltaje
i cant understand exactly what you mean and google translate doesnt help much..can you write in english?
@@electronics4all
I can test them without the caps, just direct the positive to the input of the circuit and negative to the GND of the circuit without components to check their output voltage
@@noelp.7575 you can do that but the manufacturer suggests capacitors for the input and output for stability issues.
Para eso mejor miro Charles Chaplin, que también es cine mudo.
Any tips on how to get a regulator out of a board?
you mean to desolder one from a board?? with hot air gun or with soldering iron and heating all pins fast one after another...
@@electronics4all Okay thanks
@@electronics4all one last thing, do you mind sending me the link to the voltage measure (if thats even the name.)
@@henryrios6970 link to the voltage measure??what do you mean?the pdf of the component??
@@electronics4all multimeter *
Goodddd
Son falsos si lo compraste en tienda china.
yes i know..
Jesus está voltando
leiam a Bíblia Sagrada cristã e pratiquem
...aceitem ao Senhor Jesus Cristo quem ainda não aceitou....Ele vos ama muito...
Ele quer que todos se arrependam de seus pecados e recebam a vida eterna...
através de Jesus temos vida eterna mas sem Jesus é condenação eterna
εκατσ ηκουτσηκατσικα. και καπ καπ απ κατ κατ καν γκαπ γκαπ.