Inside a ceramic lamp (with schematic)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2023
- This is definitely a very unusual and well designed lamp/globe/bulb. The ceramic LED substrates are not new, but this is a very solid and intriguing design intended for general use.
The cost was suspiciously low, to the point I thought it was a listing error, but further examination of the other listings suggests that they are trying to get established on eBay by luring people in with low prices and then nudging them up according to demand once the product sales have started flowing.
It's notable that the highest prices were for popular lamps that are clearly being bought for indoor plant growing. Here's a link to the UK eBay seller I bought my lamps from:-
www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ss...
Searching for Sansi on eBay or other sales sites may find them in other countries.
I've ordered a few other lights from them to check out. Notably the versions with smaller clusters of LEDs on lots of individual ceramic modules. They have taken an interesting universal approach to the lamp base type by making them all E27 Edison screw, and including BC22 to E27 bayonet cap adaptors.
The ceramic LED substrate is very chunky. It adds a lot of weight to the lamps. This one weighed 110g vs a common aluminium core lamp weighing 27g.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of TH-cam's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Wow, something built to last. Unusual.
Only time will tell. They probably built on purpose at least one weak link into the device so the customer must buy more.
I just had the capacitor fail on a "quality" Osram lamp after a small fraction of its rated life - interesting aroma - solvent, ozone and charring. Maybe I'll try one of these.
And how much does it cost?
14W and no cooling? It's not going to last long at all. LEDs will fade very quickly. And at barely over 100lm/W they're not event that efficient form the start.
Some big brands sometimes not super last
I've been running these Sansi ceramics for about 3 years. I had the design here in my bathroom ceiling cans until they all burnt out the LEDs, and about a dozen of the chunkier 27watt versions with the far more massive conical shaped ceramic heatsink , all installed in track light fixtures.
These lamps have such high power density they run too hot. I've written the company criticizing their use of 12 parallel strings in the 27watt version. Once an LED chip burns out , with that little black dot, the remaining strings get more current and soon fail in cascading action.
The company was very good and sent me new lamps. I permanently removed the clear plastic covers on the 27watt versions, and on all bulbs I changed the current sense resistors to adjust power to 70% of original. All of mine have a traditional circuit board inside , behind the ceramic block, employing the non-isolated brite power chip + inductor based driver (as opposed to linear regulator). I bought mostly dimmable versions as the power factor is near perfect versus poor ~0.6 measured on the non-dimmables.
With mods and open air cooling the bulbs are good and will last. But if you run them stock, they're simply running them too hot and the ceramic heatsink is no match for the dense , searing heat. One LED will burn and then the cascade failure of remaining series strings will completely nuke the whole bulb. Sansi is playing the lumens marketing game and whilst it delivers, 'the bulb that burns twice as bright... '
The ceramic seems like a heat absorber, not a proper heatsink. Designed by default to not run for long and hope it's turned off to cool down.
They do look nice to modify though.
@@volvo09 i totally agree with you . ceramic sounds exotic but feels misplaced here. Presumably it must be way cheaper to cast and kiln fire these babies and mount the led chips directly versus using aluminum heat sink plus an aluminum clad circuit board...
Can you imagine having to write to GE or Sylvania (back in the ~good old days) to tell them how to build a lightbulb? The world is just awash with non-repairable, undocumented e-waste built in unionized sweatshops/concentration-camps, with the profits going to morally bankrupt CEOs and pudgy psycho dictators who view democracy as a disease. Enough with garbage LEDs; reverse engineer a time machine so I can get out of here!
To me ceramic sounds like an insulator material...
Is there likely to be a cost difference from straight aluminum? Might the ceramic cost be more stable and predictable?
Woah, was expecting a ceramic heat lamp not a ceramic LED PCB.
Turns out the company that makes those (Shanghai Sansi Technology Co Ltd and Jiashan Sansi Photoelectric Technology Co Ltd) have a number of patents about "ceramic seats" (陶瓷座). It seems the advantage is they can make the PCB, heatsink and frame of a device all one component with ceramics and be non-conductive unlike aluminum/copper PCBs. This bulb is a relatively boring example of this with only a central hole for cooling and an exposed outer ring but the company also makes stuff like street lights with a finned heatsink integrated into the ceramic "seat" as well as a lamp where the entire base is ceramic unlike the plastic of this one.
Some of that patents for the actual ceramic material seem to imply it has some additives to increase thermal conductivity but also the far IR emissivity, to much better than bare aluminum. (they're all in Chinese so it's hard to tell exactly)
That makes a lot more sense than in this specific product.
Wow they actually invented something
Wonders whst the symble for emissivity looks like.
€*///
So Tim. I seem to have trouble locating the information you have presented before the TH-cam masses. I have contacted the companies provided and will be continuing to search for the patent/s you have referred to. For those not aware, in Material Sciences, engineering ceramic is very complex and results in a high performing BUT brittle substrate. . Most ceramic compounds exist between metallic and non- metallic elements. Therefore, interatomic bonds in ceramic are between ionic or predominantly ionic that have some covalent characters. Atomic defects can happen among ceramic compounds, creating both vacancies and interstitials. Therefore, defects for each ion type can occur. There are two types of intrinsic defects that can happen in ionic structures as Frenkel defect and Schottky defect. With this in mind, we can understand why I'm genuinely curious about these patents you refer to.
@Kevin Sellsit perusing some documentation... indicated high emissions via the LED's themselves and through the ceramic substrate with no fins (awaiting response from Sansi). Also, the enclosure prevents debris, airborne dust, and fluids from adding a film to these "breathable LED'S". Therefore, opening and touching the LED'S without gloves or a cleanroom is strongly not recommended.
Very interesting evolution of the lamps, they really are churning out so many different types. This looks like its well made compared to some that we have seen.
Ceramic PCBs have a very long history in the electronics business as the substrate for hybrid circuits. Tracks are often laid down using a "print and fire" technique. An example of an early ceramic hybrid is the SLT circuits used in the IBM System/360 computers of the mid 1960s.
It is my understanding that this process of "firing" is limited with several drawbacks. Consider that the ceramic substrate and the oxide layer between the tracks prevents a positive covalent bond between the surfaces. These aberrations become clear through normal use as the tracks contract and expand with radiation of heat which leads to premature failure or lifted tracks. The truth of the matter is, ceramics are complicated.
@@LeviGoldwing Indeed, I had to deal with a lot of hybrid failures in the past. Hopefully this new technology will be better.
@Sundog Interesting, you said that. Indeed, from what I can observe by Clive's video, the manufacturing process seems to have been simplified or reduced to a nominal cost. I recall, a few years ago Taiwan conducted a study using graphene oxide/graphene layered composite that created an atomic layer between the substrate ceramic and the tracks and used an electrochemical sensor/s. This technology may allow for the oxide layer to become sacrificial, layered in a anisotropic chemical eching. According to the the numbers submitted, this improved efficiency:
"This highly anisotropic hydrogen etching technology may work as a simple and convenient way to determine graphene crystal orientation and grain size and may enable the etching of graphene into nanoribbons for electronic applications".
Preparation, Bandgap Engineering, and Performance Control of Graphene Nanoribbons
Hao Luo and Gui Yu
Chemistry of Materials 2022 34 (8), 3588-3615
DOI: 10.1021/acs.chemmater.1c04215
I have used Sansi 15 and 40w bulbs for 5 years. they cycle off for only 4 hours every evening. They are ALL still working as they were when they were new. Amazing things.
I've taken apart every LED blub that fails and one of the more common failures in my experience across many brands (including Philips) is the capacitor, most of them are completely fried. Poor ventilation and the typical overdriving of LED's producing too much heat. This one looks great with how much ventilation it has and the distance the main cap has from heat source.
Clive is always infectiously enthusiastic for modern light bulb replacements. :)
I've had a set of 16W 2000 lumen versions used in my garage for a little more than 4 years. $10 USD each at the time. Nice and bright, and handle the wide temperature range of the garage in Minnesota (approx -5 to 110 deg F).
Julian Ilett figured out sticking red electrical tape over his red LED displays makes them easily readable on camera. It would make your light bulb tester a lot easier to read during use.
My home test equipment became much more pleasant to use after copying his example. Red tape is much quicker and easier than trying to glue or mount diffusion gel in front as I've done in the past.
Another enjoyable teardown! Thanks again Clive.
DiodeGoneWild has used strips cut from black plastic garbage bags for the same purpose. The idea is to reduce reflectivity, so it's more obvious when light is actually coming out of the display as opposed to just bouncing off it.
Wow! I've never seen tracks and components mounted on ceramic before!!!!
When you mentioned how they might apply the circuit tracks to the ceramic base, I thought back to my time working in an auto-glass factory. We used silk screening to apply the heater lines to back windows. The paint was a ceramic silver mixture that bonded with the glass under heat. The could do something similar with these lights: silk screen the tracks and then use lasers to bond them to the ceramic.
That small addon PCB is so they can solder the wires with a normal iron. You cant solder on ceramic substrates with a normal iron because the ceramic immidiatly conducts the heat away. You would need to heat the whole substate on a hotplate, which is not convenient on the assembly line
Fun fact - if you use a fiber laser to engrave on to a piece of aluminium nitride ceramic, a reaction occurs which produces metallic aluminium and will hence give you conductive tracks ;-)
I have been using Sansi leds for about 6 years. They are super bulbs. The larger 200-250 watt equivalents are very bright with little heat.
These look well made. It's a pity they are not easy to disassemble.
No! No Disassemble!
Shame you tore it apart, looks very well made, of course now we now how well it's actually made.
@@albear972 Newton Crosby !
Impressive! Those ceramic PCB's aren't cheap or easy to make.
They must have for sure found a way to manufacture them quite cheaply per unit, no doubt at massive scale and high initial cost.
Sansi makes some pretty good lights. Very popular choice for keeping plants indoors.
For most consumers, 'it not coming apart easily' is usually a selling point... not so much for Clive 😄
Definitely interesting and very nicely designed. A shining example indeed.
Quite apart from the ceramic pcb, it's just nice to see some proper cooling slots for a mains led lamp for a change :o)
Ceramic circuit boards were used many years ago by Motorola in cell phones. I worked at a factory in New Mexico, USA, where Motorola had a factory, inspecting them in their green form (not yet fired) for flaws. Of course no solder tracks were on the board yet. These were about 0.16 cm thick.
A good reason, as you noted, for having included the circuit board is that the ceramic substrate is difficult to soldier to. The tracks, often times a precious metal like silver or platinum, are too soft and ductile to support components other than surface mount components. Additionally, ceramics are brittle, making it difficult to drill any via (blind, buried, through hole, staggered) at risk of breaking or damaging the ceramic. There is a preference for sputtering indium silver alloys with graphene deposits in scientific settings, but equipment and lab conditions make the process far too costly for general manufacturing. In higher applications, Antimony, Tin, Cu and cubic boron nitride are added for vibration resistance and "springy-ness".
If I may also add Clive, the ceramic is a little thick-ums due to the fact that, depending on the cutting technique, the ceramic becomes difficult to cut the thinner it gets. I'm betting this puck was sintered thick for packaging and the occasional bump.
Hey Clive 😊. Wow this is a very interesting design indeed. You are so funny at times that I honestly thought that bulb was going to go pop when you turned it on 😂. Have a blessed day and thanks for sharing.
Interesting! Thanks Clive 👍 🇬🇧
I use 2 Sansi C21BB 27watt E27 bulbs for my garage and I lights it up a treat. The ceramic on those is even more beefy but they use a driver on a little board and the centre of the bulb.
Was so impressed I bought a Sansi PIR flood light on the driveway. Built to last and not a hint of flicker.
Re the thick ceramic - this will give a substrate that is mechanically more robust, but also may increase the yield of good parts during the ceramic manufacturing process. The thinner ceramic parts are the more likely a higher percentage will get broken during drying and firing (and in use, when the finished lamp is being punted around by growers etc.) Looks like a well made unit. Cheers!
Mr. Dayman. It is apparent to me you understand the mechanics of ceramics. Are you aware of any implementation or applications of ceramic fins in sintered substrates? I am currently asking my colleagues who are unaware of these applications in scientific settings as well.
@@LeviGoldwing Short answer - no , not aware, sorry.
I worked at a company making ceramic boards for high temperature circuits. The traces are silver powder in a binder put on with a silkscreen and then fired to burn off the binder and fuse the silver. That ceramic is REALLY hard on the machines, constantly grinding down the hardened steel guides.
We have a bunch of their lights, the quality is excellent and so is the warranty. I had one of the 40 watt models fail near the end of the warranty period and they replaced it with zero hassle.
We have PAR30 LED floodlights at work which are 40 Watts / 4,000 Lumens. They have a similar shape to the one Clive is showing, but have a fan inside. They are rated 35,000 Hours lifespan. They have been operating 24/7 for 5 years and not burnt out yet !! Very good stuff.
I may be mistaken, but I think the lifespan rating on most LEDs are telling you how long it will last before it drops below 80% its initial brightness.
I've got something like that in floodlight fixtures around the outside of my house. They're a pain in the butt to service (need a big ladder to reach them over the 2nd floor) so having bulbs that will last is imperative, cost is only a secondary consideration. Currently there are 5 working after 6 years and one that just failed a week ago.
@@MrMartinSchou That is true, we actually took one of the 5 year old floodlights out and changed it with a brand new one, and for sure there was a 20% difference in brightness. But I haven't seen any single burnt out leds yet, so they are wearing out evenly.
@@tncorgi92 These do last a long time, and at 4,000 lumens they are extremely bright, but not the cheapest at 28$ /ea or 150$ for a box of six.
The fan is probably the shortest lifespan of the components, if it's a motor-driven one (as opposed to piezo or other "solid state" type). Passive cooling would be better, IMHO
I have used this type of lamps for my plants and seeds for several years, never had any problems. Also have a customer service team who you can actually use!
it really looks like it is meant to last for once. just the amount of LEDs gives a clue about it. looks like you might have found a gem there Clive :)
1. The PCR is for Constant Power Control. It is also usable for dimming.
2. The electrolytic cap probably makes the power factor somewhat low.
So glad your covering these - I'm using the Sansi 36W on a Scotch Bonnet pepper plant and it responds very well - BUT - I've heard some folks have had bulb flicker after 10 months, so disassembled drivers on Big Clive is excellent news❣
What a well designed and manufactured product - makes a nice change!
Extremely well designed & produced lamp!
Finally! An LED lamp that’s built to last
After you offered this review on your Patreon, I ordered a couple of these in the smart version. Looks great!
Very informative so much so I have just orderd one of their plant grow bulbs. These look really well made and I will give a little vid how I get on with this lamp and seedraising. Thanks Clive always enjoy your vids and good info.
Pin 3 is "Constant power adjust" or "Light adjust" according to data sheet
My guess as to the “PCR” labeling was “Programmable Current Regulation”, so that would certainly fit. Basically a way to assign a weighted multiplier to the current sense pin.
I like how after the dremel you didn't even bother to brush the plastic dust off your hand.
That's the production quality I come for haha.
I use these Sansi as SAD lighting because of their full spectrum output. I have a really massive one in my office ceiling. I really rate them for quality of light. I switched after my previous preferred type started regularly failing by getting the fitting super hot.
PCR is for dimming.
Ranges from 100% brightness @0.8V to 0% @1.6V
I wonder if these are leftovers from a Gov contract? Unusually high build quality.
I have about 20 of them in a garden lighting string up in the loft they are excellent!
Just checked at the time when i bought them (hence why i grabbed/bought them) I was getting them in quantities of 6 for £5.83 (for 6) delivered so bought 3 lots this was end summer last yr
Finally, a design that will actually function for the 20k hours the leds will live
Used to work for a lighting manufacturer over here in the states that specialised in horticultural lighting. We did some research with the Sansi ceramic substrate products. Interesting stuff, but stupidly expensive
VERY FINE PIECE OF TECH ! Nicely done ! I'll give it an 9+ !
Yes yes yes finally! I've been waiting for this! I have the American version of these bulbs at my house and they're awesome but I tried taking one apart and I couldn't get the stupid potting material off . Nor can I find the chip on the internet.
Interesting comment about using a LED chip that was different spec to all the others to balance the voltage rating. Similar to the makeweight chocolate you may get in a tin of Quality Street (600g and still dropping).
I love how the circuit photo looks on this one - primary colors and slightly broken symmetry. Not sure if the background being blue was intentional, but it's perfect! Do you archive these photos?
I do store all the images.
Since it has a sort of rounded 3D appearance my guess would be screen printing to apply some active alloy on that can directly bond to the ceramic. Alternatively it could be as simple as conductive ink to keep costs down, but not sure how good the thermal dissipation would be. It could be laser sintered as well, but given they are going for bulk production I would guess they are going for something fairly economical. In a way its almost sort of a moot point since they go thru the effort to make it ceramic, but then just plop conventional low temperature components on it rather than the dies themselves, nor bother to use an actual heatsink to take advantage of it. Marketing I guess...
Been a while since I’ve seen ceramic substrate circuits. I remember first encountering them in Sanken audio ICs like the STK433 and RF modules in Philios pagers from the 80s.
That Sansi company makes a ton of different types of LED bulbs and light fixtures. Very nice. I'm getting two new Sansi security porch lights. They can't be any worse than the ones I got that stopped working way too soon.
That housing has a well known Chinese ACL system aka "Anti Clive Lock" system
I have since worked out how to open them cleanly for hacking.
@@bigclivedotcom Don't tell the Chinese !!!
When you showed the back of the ceramic part, it reminded me of an icing covered biscuit... 🤣
I just ordered 2 4 packs of the 3K color and 1 4 pack of the 5K, directly from Sansi. They are about 4 USD per bulb. The site claims the tracks are silver. Great find, thanks for a good breakdown too. Cheers!
Nice design and execution. If they had low-power switch!
Nice one Clive. That's a step forward in LED Lamp design. I hope they're available for the home soon. Cheers Clive!
They are on ebay for general use.
Really well made bulb!
Would be interesting to see if tracks get warm, since they are not copper, so probably have a higher resistance. You could also measure resistance on some of those unused tracks.
Current is low milliamps due to the really high voltage of LED strings, and power is current squared times resistance, so the resistance of the tracks doesn't need to be low.
there is a graphic on their official website that calls the tracks 'silver lines' however it's a very simple 'ours vs theirs' comparison type graphic, hard to say how technically revealing they're being
Considering the thickness and the type of material used, I would suggest that this is a reworked 6” wafer and the tracks are plated on it in a a MEMS foundry.
For a change I'm impressed!
Thank you for this teardown. I almost bought one. I like the way they think.
Have you considered playing with those extra features on the power chips?
Sweet. I was looking at this company for a room's lighting. They dont seem that scammy nor that cheap in their build quality. Glad to see this reviewed and opened up.
I'm trying to source lights better than the ikea LED bulbs (looking for full spectrum and getting a split between 5600 K and 2700 K)
I quite like the look of these. Cheers.
Going to pick up some, 4pack 150w EQ for 12$ USD which seems like a great deal honestly. Ill try and remember to update this when I get them.
okay my version of this lamp that was bigger and looks too close in design to be a deviation - the glass cover blew up under one year. The resulting "bulb" is a flying insect death magnet. They made his version harder to covert to flying insect death tool but go buy a $9.99 electro death fly swatter and use this LED config to destroy flying insects. Tested in good faith on the shores of Lake Erie for over a decade. I assume this same set-up is still being used as I sold the property before the light source died. I felt bad for the thousands of Crane Flies that didn't adapt. No warmth for dead mosquitoes.
That's a very nicely designed LED lamp. Wow. Huge unit, but it will probably last forever, even without hacks!
what is your profile pic from? ive seen it before but i dont know where.
@@zilog1 i really cant remember. i found it on the internet a long time ago. liked it. stuck it on my github profile, and only recently added it to my yt profile ;)
1:20 It's natural white/daylight. Cold white starts around 6000k.
Nice little lamp, may have to have a look for listings
Should last along time looks great thanks Clive
Interesting (also some of the comments) as my initial thought was that the ceramic substrate (A) wouldnt be thermally conductive enough and (B) not big enough to dissipate the heat, but I admit I know very little about ceramics. I've noticed generally LED lamps over 10W dont seem to last more than a year or so, which I put down to not being able to dissipate enough heat. I'd be curious to know what the running temperature is compared to more standard lamps.
Oh I have a ceramic lamp, and it was not cheap. Quite powerful. I’ll have to take a look at it.
Very interesting (as usual) ... and useful I've ordered some of their lamps as I'm looking for better illumination for some high speed photography.
"They really don't want me to get into this" = "WHAT ARE THEY HIDING??" 😁
A look into the capacitors rating for temperature and life, aswell as measuring the temperature it is exposed to, would be useful to determine how long it will last. Usually there are several different life ratings for each temperature ratings, also ripple current rating and resistance determine how much heat is dissipated in the cap.
All the Sainsburys LEDs I have ever purchased fail at about 1/4 their rated life, I' assuming they are cap failures but I havn't investigated.
I've featured the hacks that can be done on the cheaper lamps to multiply their life expectancy greatly.
Impressive Design...
You won't believe this clive but your fire sprinkler heating video was used in my online classroom module of my firefighter training, from the state fire academy.
Specifically the heating bit with the air gun on the bulb for 4-5 seconds. I know it was you because of the phat sooty skidmark on the bench.
I'm fine with my videos being used in educational environments.
@@bigclivedotcom Fair enough. It was just pretty surprising seeing a few seconds from a video of yours in my online module.
Interesting to see a LED bulb not designed to fail. It seems the common failure point is the electrolytic cap. The city replaced a few dozens in an underground pass and about a quarter of them started flickering after about a year. Really adds to the underground tunnel ambiance.
LEDs failed to deliver on low maintenance town fixtures.
Connecticut installed some LED street lamps to replace the high-pressure sodium lamps on a 1 or 2 mile stretch of highway. Three days after they were powered on, it looked like a disco because most of the fixtures started flashing from failure. Go, tax dollars! 💸
Hard to explain, but I have a video of it:
th-cam.com/video/SS4rENvEckY/w-d-xo.html
(Not self-promoting, I'm not monetized, I don't even do much on my channel anymore, I just wanted to show you what I was trying to explain.)
But have they turned blue?
I too have enjoyed "hydroponics" over the years. 🥦 Although, I can't find the particular leaf I enjoyed in my emoji collection.😅
Broccoli eh? I remember an ad for a "herb" grinder where they said it handles the big stuff as well, and used a piece of broccoli as a stand-in.
@@Gameboygenius yeah. Broccoli.
Wouldn't mind having a few of those to try out.
1:25... Your 7 segment display needs a red filter to see the digits more clearly Clive.
Just ordered some 9w and 13w US versions of these (120v) and will have to see how they last!
How? Are they shipping to US? I tried ordering from the Netherlands but it's a no-go.
The manufacturer (Sansi) sells them directly both on eBay and Amazon
Great sansi Ceramic Bulbs
The East Germans used to put ceramic printed circuits in Trabant cars (voltage regulators, fuel flow meters, electronic ignition units) in the mid 1980s. Amazing, but impossible to repair.
Ceramic inserts oooh!! You naughty bugger!!
Interesting lamp. The grey color reminded me of the ink used for some of the PCB making machines that use a pen of conductive ink to draw the circuit on to boards. The ink only needs to dry prior to soldering.
The way these were made in the 1960s was to run the substrates thru a printing press, depositing conductive ink. Then you fired the substrate like a coffee cup, which melted all the little silver bits into a continuous trace, and fused them into the top few microns of the ceramic surface. The results were extremely durable.
Typically the ink is composed of actual silver nanoparticles as silver is highly conductive and most of its oxides also remain conductive. Not as conductive as a solid copper trace would be, but still perfectly acceptable if you can accept some extra resistance losses in your traces and for short traces and lower currents/higher voltages those losses are often quite acceptable for many electronics. I have occasionally used such pens to repair or route around damaged traces on PCBs as opposed to routing a bodge wire as the repair just to see how such worked out long term and….20 years later those repairs still work.
I would say it’s good quality and made well
It could well be Electron Beam Melting / Sintering for the tracks not laser, I've seen work like this done on Arcam systems. You could load up cassettes / trays of parts and process them very very quickly.
Easier to screen print the tracks with silver loaded ink, and simply fire the ceramic a final time to bond it to the board, as is used on so many ceramic substrates. Low cost, and good adhesion, plus reasonably conductive traces, and as a bonus a second screen after drying of the first of a glaze to cover the tracks aside from the exposed solder pads makes a good solder mask as well.
Awesome Video big clive
It would be interesting to solder a potentiometer across those programming pads and check what effect it has on the output power.
i use some ceramic heatsinks (on G9 lamps and e27 ones) as HV insulators, or as ozone generator insulator
In case no one else has done it, the text against the PCR pin translates as "Constant power control or dimming control terminal".
After scouring eBay and Amazon looking for a affordable grow light that's built well this is the brand that I went with I'm happy my bulshit assumptions were correct 🥂
Good to see a design that doesn't bake the electrolytic capacitor. Well, unless you put the lamp in a closed fixture.
I'd love to see you do a review on fancier bulbs like Philips hue to see how they compare to cheaper options.
Thanks
Oh these are nice had some from Amazon they are bright
Wow! A very high-quality product with a reasonable, if not accurate, claim on the lumens available. Ya don't see that everyday.
That being said I'm not sure why it seems so much brighter than the 2 X AAA 500,000 lumen pen light I bought on the interwebs.
;)
Yes. 2xAAA could power a 500,000 lumen light only if they powered a xenon flash. You might get a few 1 ms flashes with a minute between each.
@@whitcwa Next time I'll exaggerate much more.
Thanks for the tip.