Thank you, we're just happy to help! We have many more stove and oven repair videos here. Its a good playlist to bookmark for future reference: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt.html
Thank you for the subscription, we're just glad to share some good information! if you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist which is great for general info on furnaces, appliances and other common devices: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp.html
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! If your oven is from the 1960s then it will not have a control board and thermistor (temperature sensor. It will have a oven control thermostat which is a fluid filled bulb and manual contacts. These contacts can stick and cause issues over time: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Oven-Control-Thermostats-632506-AD1P
Thanks for the tips on locating and testing the thermistor (temperature sensor) and for checking for a short circuit in the heating elements. You saved me $55! The resistance of my thermistor was almost identical to the one at the appliance parts store that I went to. So my thermistor is probably fine. And there was infinite resistance between each heating element terminal and the bare metal chassis of the oven- so it looks like no short circuit in the heating elements. I checked for loose connections among the wires that connect to the control panel and found none. No blackened areas either. Still, it appears that the control panel must be faulty. I wish you showed us how to test it- rather than simply say, call a professional.
You're welcome Eric, we're glad that you found some of this helpful. With the control board it is best to eliminate all other sources. Control boards are difficult to test, there is a lot of variety between models and it's not straight forward enough to be able to cover in a video. If you have eliminated everything else, the control board is simple to replace. You can see more here: th-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/w-d-xo.html
You're welcome Scott! We're glad that you found it helpful, I think you'll find our other videos helpful as well. If you hit the subscription button and our channel will be saved for later under the subscriptions tab on TH-cam. Cheers!
Hello, I need your opinion please, I tested both elements for shorts and one came up at 0.700 and the other one at 2.300, so if my thinking is good both elements are not good and need to be replace ? Temperature sensor is at 1098 so that one look ok. The problem we have is we cook in the oven and in couples minutes or so it burn the foods. Very informative video.
Thanks for watching. If both elements have continuity during a test for a short, then they should be replaced as it is likely that the short is preventing the elements from turning off correctly during a bake cycle. Also check to make sure that the terminals and connectors are isolated and that nothing is touching it that might cause a short. You may or might not see any visible damage on the heating elements but sometimes there might be cracking or an exposed portion of the coating. Regardless, replacing the elements would be the best next step.
Thanks for watching. Are you referring to the convection fan? This fan should only run during a convection bake cycle. Some advanced models might have a cooling feature where it also runs after a bake or broil cycle is done. If the fan stays on then it's most likely an issue with the control board. It could be a stuck relay on the board which would be continuously sending power to the fan.
Hello Vance. Thank you for the helpful video. What do you mean when you say, when testing for a shorted element, "if there is any continuity reading" the element needs to be replaced? Does this mean the reading should be "0"?
Thanks for watching. It depends on where the short is happening. In some cases it might travel through the element so you'd get a resistance reading close to the resistance of the heating element. If the short does not go through the element then it might be closer to 0 - 1 ohm. In this cases it wouldn't cause the oven to overheat in the same way. If there is OL (open loop) or display is blank or shows - - - - - - , then there is no continuity and no short.
Thanks for watching. If you're testing with the power disconnected and the multimeter leads won't fit inside the connector of something like the temperature sensor, then you can use a inexpensive hack. Using paper clips you can wrap it around the multimeter lead and use the paperclip to fit inside the connector. Alternative there are "needle tip probes" that you can get for multimeters.
Thanks for watching. An F10 code can mean that the control board thinks the oven is too hot. Following the steps in this video, test the temperature sensor as it is likely the problem.
Hey there! My oven is kind of old, and we just replaced the control board and the thermistor, but when we plug it in, it starts heating up on its own. Is that supposed to happen?
Thanks for watching. The oven should not start up unless the a bake or broil cycle is selected on the control board. Have you checked the bake or broil element for a short?
Thank you for watching. Check to make sure that the temperature sensor terminals leading into control board are clean and that nothing is interfering with the connection as this could mess up the reading. As well check for a shorted heating element. If all of that is good, then it could be an issue with the control board.
Thanks for watching. During a bake cycle, both elements contribute to the heat with about 80% from the bake element and 20% from the broil. If one of the heating elements is not working, then the oven will not heat properly. In this case it's best to install a new heating element. You can see more in this video: th-cam.com/video/ABope7vl5IY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. Does your oven use a control board, or is it an older style that has a manual dial for the oven? If you have an oven with a control board, then it could be an issue with the temperature sensor or the control board itself. If you have the oven control thermostat (dial) then its likely that one of the contacts inside of it are stuck closed: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Oven-Control-Thermostats-632506-AD1P
Thanks for watching. The pins on the sensor are recessed a little so what is most likely happening is that the multimeter probes are not making solid contact with the pins. Check the connection between the probes and the pins and you might find that the resistance value will not jump around as much. A little variance is ok though. It also depends on the multimeter.
Hello and good day @AMRE Supply Really appreciate if you could help! My oven is overheating, but as far as I observed, 1. the upper coil is turning reddish after a certain time, while the bottom coil seems to be underheating because my brownies texture turned chewy (like chocolate moist) 2. another symptom is the lamp turns of before the actual time (around minute 8 mark) TQ so much in advance
Thanks for watching. If you think the bottom element is faulty and not heating up then it should be replaced. You can learn how to do that in this video: th-cam.com/video/ABope7vl5IY/w-d-xo.html As well follow the steps in this video to check for the short as well as test the temperature sensor. If you have eliminated all other problems then it could be a faulty control board.
Thanks for watching. If you have the tools and skills to repair a capacitor on the board then that can be done. It's not a repair that most people are set up for though.
Thanks for watching. If the stove works, the clock and / or the oven light works but the oven isn't heating then it could be an issue with the thermal fuse (or limit switch), the temperature sensor or an issue with the control board: th-cam.com/video/96s7maybHlY/w-d-xo.html
Did this video help you troubleshoot your oven? Did you run into any hurdles? Let us know in the comments!
This is the best troubleshooting video for oven temp issues on the tube.
Thank you, we're just happy to help! We have many more stove and oven repair videos here. Its a good playlist to bookmark for future reference: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt.html
Later
💯💯
I must be No1 to subscribe to this channel. Your ways of explaining make things easy
Thank you for the subscription, we're just glad to share some good information! if you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist which is great for general info on furnaces, appliances and other common devices: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp.html
Extremely well-done tutorial! I was able to follow along easily and identify the problem; the relay switches were stuck closed.
Thank you Gretchen, we're just glad the video helped you narrow down the problem!
Thank you for no nonsense help trouble shooting. Your saving people time, money and stress.
You're welcome, we're just happy to see our appliance repair series grow and help more and more people!
Excellent video. My oven is from the 1960s but I feel like I have a basic understanding of how it works now and possibly how to fix it, thanks.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! If your oven is from the 1960s then it will not have a control board and thermistor (temperature sensor. It will have a oven control thermostat which is a fluid filled bulb and manual contacts. These contacts can stick and cause issues over time: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Oven-Control-Thermostats-632506-AD1P
First seconds and I pushed like 😊
Maximum correct information 👍👍👍
Thank you so much, we're just happy to share some good info!
Thank you...your advice is clear...helped me fix my stove!
Glad it helped!
This is a wonderfully thorough video, thank you so much!
You're welcome! We're just happy to help!
OMG!!! Thanks for such an informative and easy to fix problem. God bless you.
You're welcome, we're just glad you found the videos helpful!
Thanks for the tips on locating and testing the thermistor (temperature sensor) and for checking for a short circuit in the heating elements. You saved me $55! The resistance of my thermistor was almost identical to the one at the appliance parts store that I went to. So my thermistor is probably fine. And there was infinite resistance between each heating element terminal and the bare metal chassis of the oven- so it looks like no short circuit in the heating elements. I checked for loose connections among the wires that connect to the control panel and found none. No blackened areas either. Still, it appears that the control panel must be faulty.
I wish you showed us how to test it- rather than simply say, call a professional.
You're welcome Eric, we're glad that you found some of this helpful. With the control board it is best to eliminate all other sources. Control boards are difficult to test, there is a lot of variety between models and it's not straight forward enough to be able to cover in a video. If you have eliminated everything else, the control board is simple to replace. You can see more here: th-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/w-d-xo.html
Nice! Thanks for the video, as a facilities director with multiple locations to fix, i guarantee ill be back !!!!!
You're welcome Scott! We're glad that you found it helpful, I think you'll find our other videos helpful as well. If you hit the subscription button and our channel will be saved for later under the subscriptions tab on TH-cam. Cheers!
You guys rock! well done. Just what I needed.:)
Thank you! We're glad that the video helped you out!
Hello, I need your opinion please, I tested both elements for shorts and one came up at 0.700 and the other one at 2.300, so if my thinking is good both elements are not good and need to be replace ? Temperature sensor is at 1098 so that one look ok. The problem we have is we cook in the oven and in couples minutes or so it burn the foods. Very informative video.
Thanks for watching. If both elements have continuity during a test for a short, then they should be replaced as it is likely that the short is preventing the elements from turning off correctly during a bake cycle.
Also check to make sure that the terminals and connectors are isolated and that nothing is touching it that might cause a short. You may or might not see any visible damage on the heating elements but sometimes there might be cracking or an exposed portion of the coating. Regardless, replacing the elements would be the best next step.
Good teacher
Thank you!
Nice Video!!!Any thoughts why my cooling fan stays on all the time even after the oven is cold ?
Thanks for watching. Are you referring to the convection fan? This fan should only run during a convection bake cycle. Some advanced models might have a cooling feature where it also runs after a bake or broil cycle is done. If the fan stays on then it's most likely an issue with the control board. It could be a stuck relay on the board which would be continuously sending power to the fan.
Hello Vance. Thank you for the helpful video. What do you mean when you say, when testing for a shorted element, "if there is any continuity reading" the element needs to be replaced? Does this mean the reading should be "0"?
Thanks for watching. It depends on where the short is happening. In some cases it might travel through the element so you'd get a resistance reading close to the resistance of the heating element. If the short does not go through the element then it might be closer to 0 - 1 ohm. In this cases it wouldn't cause the oven to overheat in the same way.
If there is OL (open loop) or display is blank or shows - - - - - - , then there is no continuity and no short.
@@AmreSupply Thank you. I will test it further.
Hi friend thanks for the informative video
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
What do you do if your multimeter pins won't fit in the connector?
Thanks for watching. If you're testing with the power disconnected and the multimeter leads won't fit inside the connector of something like the temperature sensor, then you can use a inexpensive hack. Using paper clips you can wrap it around the multimeter lead and use the paperclip to fit inside the connector.
Alternative there are "needle tip probes" that you can get for multimeters.
I had the same problem, but I was able to insert the probes into a back opening (in white part) of the connectors
Thanks
You're welcome!
Why does my oven say F10 on the display and overheat? Is that something specific outside of this troubleshooting? Appreciate any insight!
Thanks for watching. An F10 code can mean that the control board thinks the oven is too hot. Following the steps in this video, test the temperature sensor as it is likely the problem.
Hey there! My oven is kind of old, and we just replaced the control board and the thermistor, but when we plug it in, it starts heating up on its own. Is that supposed to happen?
Thanks for watching. The oven should not start up unless the a bake or broil cycle is selected on the control board. Have you checked the bake or broil element for a short?
I have a KitchenAid oven I changed the thermal sensor and it started overheating again. What do I do?
Thank you for watching. Check to make sure that the temperature sensor terminals leading into control board are clean and that nothing is interfering with the connection as this could mess up the reading.
As well check for a shorted heating element.
If all of that is good, then it could be an issue with the control board.
How about not getting hot enough? Heating element went out. Now it doesn't heat up high enough
Thanks for watching. During a bake cycle, both elements contribute to the heat with about 80% from the bake element and 20% from the broil. If one of the heating elements is not working, then the oven will not heat properly. In this case it's best to install a new heating element. You can see more in this video: th-cam.com/video/ABope7vl5IY/w-d-xo.html
If the oven cycle light it's still on after everything it's off, what can be the problem?
Thanks for watching. Does your oven use a control board, or is it an older style that has a manual dial for the oven?
If you have an oven with a control board, then it could be an issue with the temperature sensor or the control board itself.
If you have the oven control thermostat (dial) then its likely that one of the contacts inside of it are stuck closed: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Oven-Control-Thermostats-632506-AD1P
What if my sensor is getting around 1100 but jumps around a bit too?
Thanks for watching. The pins on the sensor are recessed a little so what is most likely happening is that the multimeter probes are not making solid contact with the pins. Check the connection between the probes and the pins and you might find that the resistance value will not jump around as much. A little variance is ok though. It also depends on the multimeter.
Hello and good day @AMRE Supply
Really appreciate if you could help!
My oven is overheating, but as far as I observed,
1. the upper coil is turning reddish after a certain time,
while the bottom coil seems to be underheating because my brownies texture turned chewy (like chocolate moist)
2. another symptom is the lamp turns of before the actual time (around minute 8 mark)
TQ so much in advance
Thanks for watching. If you think the bottom element is faulty and not heating up then it should be replaced. You can learn how to do that in this video: th-cam.com/video/ABope7vl5IY/w-d-xo.html
As well follow the steps in this video to check for the short as well as test the temperature sensor.
If you have eliminated all other problems then it could be a faulty control board.
I find a capacitor in the board OL i think the capacitor should be replaced
Thanks for watching. If you have the tools and skills to repair a capacitor on the board then that can be done. It's not a repair that most people are set up for though.
What if just the clock work
Thanks for watching. If the stove works, the clock and / or the oven light works but the oven isn't heating then it could be an issue with the thermal fuse (or limit switch), the temperature sensor or an issue with the control board: th-cam.com/video/96s7maybHlY/w-d-xo.html
+
Thanks for watching.