How to make 3D Printed LED Letters sign (ft. BambuLab A1 Mini)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2025
- In this video, i'll be showing you guys how to make personalized 3D printed LED sign. You could print your name or even your own logo!
LED Strips:
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Filaments used in this video:
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White (caps): geni.us/A4OFomi
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You don't need to export every body individually. Right-Click on the project name in the browser tree, save as mesh and then select One File per Body under structure.
that‘s a great tip! Thanks for sharing
Wish I read this comment about 10 minutes ago...
show it in a video :)
@@gregeezy lool
Use the slower speed in the video settings. I usually change it to 2x
0 modeling experience. First time i tried your tutorial i failed. Had some peace in my head today and in 1,5 hours i managed to finish te tutorial. I think this is enough info for me to now make my own lightboxes and stuff.
Thank you so much!!
Best Tutorial I've watched, Thank you!
thank you so much!
You don't need anything like as much sketch geometry or operations to do this.
Extrude the caps as a solid body
To create the 0.1mm clearance use Offset Face
To make them hollow, use Modify > Shell, and select the bottom face
To create the cavity and the ridges in the base, again use the Offset Face command
When using Offset Face, it will generally be quicker to select the whole body, then de-select the faces you don't want to offset (ie the top / bottom faces). This will leave you with all the walls selected
Also, all of the Offset Face operations can be done on all the letters at the same time
These techniques will save TONS of time
You are absolutely correct. You can also use Press Pull to create the 0.1 mm clearance.
When i first started, i watched tutorials where they used those operations and i ruined my model. troubleshooting took so much time.
So i made the tutorial using a slightly different method, almost a fail-safe way for beginners, in hoping that they wouldn‘t be having the same problem like i had back then.
I understand the shell command, it's the offset I am struggling with. When I have the outer walls at 30mm high and then select them with the offset command it is only allowing me to make the walls thicker. Are we not mentioning a step here to make the inner wall a little thicker and 10mm shorter with offset?
@@samuelelliott715 You should do the offset command on the sketch, not the body. Hopefully that helps you out here!
sketch is sometimes better, especially when offset face on a body is not working. fusion could just not do add the -0,1mm offset in my example
if only all video tutorials were like yours: clean, straight to the point. Thanks!
thanks so much! Glad that it‘s clear to you! I tried to not stretch the video too much😄
Awesome sign, and great tutorial on the modeling 👍
thanks so much!
Really cool! Thanks!
wow dude thank you so much!!
Thanks for the tutorial! In addition to all the great tips in the comments about fusion360, I think you could also make the holes for the led strip as cylinders and then you might not need support at all!
your welcome and yeah that‘s a great idea!
You can also get flexible LED strips used in the signage industry that will conform much nicer than the ones used in this video, and is actually quite cost effective if you know where to get them locally.
you’re right! Currently my favourite type of light strip is COB light strips. Super flexible and you can get thin ones and they shine really bright as well!
I used them in my recent Edge-lit Acrylic sign video and they’re so easy to work with.
Excelent. Another way is use "thin extrude". For the caps for example, just extrude 1mm, extrude again 0.2mm in the oposite direction for tolerance, and again thin extrude the walls.
I once made a similar sign a few years ago when I first started with 3D printing, only I made it so that the back was open so that it was easier for me to stick the LED's into, and I made it so I can put these offset hanging pegs into the sign so not only did the letters light up, but it illuminated the wall around it too a bit!
Ahh, i was so creative back then. What happened? LOL
Thanks a lot - very helpful 💯
your welcome!
Great tutorial! I'm a relative beginner with Fusion and this was very easy to follow. I used a kinda curvy font, so took some extra work figuring out how to clean that up and get everything constrained, but now I'm good to go! Started printing the first parts on my P1P. Thanks!
Thank you, im glad that it helped!
Thanks for the tutorial! Thanks to all the commenters who left their insights too. Subbed 😊!
your welcome, good luck in making your own sign, and thanks for subbing!😄
Beautifully done ❤❤❤❤ Thank you
your welcome! Good luck making your own sign and Have fun printing!
Great video!!
Though, 1 suggestion.
@ 7:27
You could instead have done just the single 0.1mm offset, extruded, then used the shell command on the desired face with your specified thickness.
This keeps your files cleaner.
Less bloat helps the project stay snapper. 😁👍
thats a great tip, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for this! I recently created a desk lamp using your tutorial, however I used a 12v LED strip and the lights became increasingly hot. I think I can circumvent any material deformation using ABS instead of PLA. But I was wondering if you had any advice concerning LED lights and the heat generated. Thank you!
what type of filament is used on the white extruded part?
i used PLA filament from SUNLU
Thank for the Great and easy tutorial . I was wondering is there an easy way to estimate the length of the LED strip needed ? Can fusion calculate the perimeter of each letter ?
WOW, this is such a good explanation! Can't wait for more tutorials
thank you! glad that it helped
very nice video. explained very well.
Glad it was helpful!
Is there a way to copy the setting (changes made to one letter and paste it to the others instead of doing each setting on the individual letter? Does that make sense or maybe do 1 letter with the setting you want then simply copy it and past it then change the letter to the other ones?
Thanks For sharing Lukis!!!
Very professional video , specially for me as an beginner :)
Thanks ALOT!!!
your welcome! Thats great to hear, hopefully you can print alot of signs! Good luck and happy printing💪🏼
@@Lukis3D that is my plan :) I just implemented the LED lights today :)
I had some issue with L and I body was a bit to small and was falling inside the base , but i increased size with some mm and it was all good :)
Thanks.. looking forward to see you new videos !!
Great looking result and seemingly easy tutorial to follow. Can't wait to try this out.
thank you, and good luck!
what font did you use for the Japanese letterings?
It‘s Noto Sans Japanese. You can download it for free on Google Fonts👍🏼
Very helpful. Thank you very much. I have a question. If I want to create a yellow sign, can I use a combination of yellow filament and white LED light?
your welcome! hmm ive never tried the color combination before, but i think the wall thickness of the base is thick enough that the light won‘t shine through.🤞🏼🤞🏼
If you convert the parts into respective components, then you can export the entire project with all the files you want being exposed at the time od the export, putting them all into 1 .step file.
Their quality will also be better as a .step over .stl
Does the AMS lite really holds up the abrasive Matte PLA?
i‘ve no isses so far👍🏼👍🏼
Nice tutorial. Have you experimented with different types of infill patterns for the base model? Wondering what's the most efficent one while still maintaining decent strength.
thank you! no i havent, i used grid infill in this video, but gyroid seems to be quite popular in the community for strength.
Great video
thanks you!
for anyone complaining about how fast theyre going, go to the cudeo settings and change the playback speed to .75 it wont distort the sound as much. but you obviously can do the slower speeds as well if youre struggling
Suggestions on what to search for on LED strips with more lights per meter? Not sure what the correct word is to search for other than "brighter" led strip which doesnt seem to work too well lol
you can search for 60LED/m or 18LED/ft (if youre buying 5 m strip, then it should have 300 LEDs, or somewhere around 240LEDs for a 13ft strip)
@@Lukis3D Thank you! I did a little bit more research and it seems the best type of LED you can get for this imo is a COB (controller on board) LED light strip. You can't see the individual LEDs on the strip
This is amazing information, thank you just subscribed.🎉🎉🎉
your welcome! Im glad that its helpful. Have fun printing your own sign!
very helpful, I'm making my own, currently printing them. thank you
your welcome, and good luck with your project!
Nice video! What filament did you use for the white caps?
hey man thank you so much! i used SUNLU PLA+
What filaments are good for making the light bright enough?
any white filament would do. If you want it to be brighter i suppose you can get an LED light strip that has 60LEDs or more per meter.
In the video i used a 30LEDs/m light strip and it‘s good enough for me.
when doing my passtrough hole between the letters, some part come white and detach from the model, do you know why ?
This was good and can be quickened with some insight into expedition with fusion 360.
Perfect! For the diffusing layer, will any regular white PLA work, or does it need to be a specific type of PLA designed for light diffusion? I'm not very familiar with the options.
you can use any type of PLA white. Any basic white filament will work😊
Thank you very much your video was very helpful
Glad it helped!
Will the App allow you to turn the light off? Without the app, you simply unplug it to turn it off?
This is amazing.. I have watched many times, and actually made notes to try duplicating it.. but I am having a problem at the first offset - as soon as the offset it big enough to overlap, the offset disappears from the middle letter (I'm trying with a 3 letter word). Any ideas?
Started over using the word "LIKE" and it works... Why would the letters matter? Using same font - Tried using "OGR"
@@rctoyguy Hi there, i tried to offset the OGR and it seems like if you offset it in the positive direction, the middle one disappears. Try to offset it in a negative direction, e.g. -10 mm, i tried it and it works. Sometimes you have to play around with the direction a little bit if it doesn't do what you want.
this is awesome! Thank you!
your welcome, and good luck making your own sign!
My first self made model ever was a similar led sign, where i followed a similar tutorial by Duke Docs on yt, but it was prette difficult to follow as the commentary is in Portuguese. You used a few methods that is easier. For example, the way he showed it, i had to use Inkscape to create the text as svgs, and then import them, but using the text tool in fusion, and unlocking them is so much simpler. I love the look of these led signs, but i dont have any text I wanna have a sign of, as i dont want just random words all over my wall😄 one thing I thought could be better with your led sign is if the led strip didn't follow the letters around the inside like that, but the letter bases was more of a box shape, and the strip would sit in a straight line in the top and bottom, shining in towards the middle. Would also use less led strip, and reduce the risk of the adhesion letting go over time, as a few of my signs did. Nice video, ill check your other vids now.
thanks for your comment! Yes i too, initially tried to use Photoshop to create the text as SVG when i realized that there's a better and a simpler way.
I think i know what you mean by the box shape, like my other design, the 16 segment display LED sign: th-cam.com/video/GzjDQleAKGM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cRJjb9cK-Lx64d03
Awesome!! You made this so easy to understand, thank you!!
your welcome and have fun creating!
Very good! Thank you very much for uploading it and for your time explaining it! You already have a new subscriber, thank you!!!
Your welcome! And thanks for subscribing🫶🏻
What material did you use for the white print? All I can seem to find is clear for sale. Yours looks so much better than clear.
hi there, i just used Sunlu PLA+ white and printed on the smooth PEI plate.
I really appreciate these types of tutorials. But I wish people would go slower when they're showing how they do these projects. Most people just fly through the process like they normally would. But they often forget they are showing people how to do something. Something that people obviously have no clue or they wouldn't have clicked on the video to begin with.
i mean you can pause, rewind, or watch in a slower speed if you really need. and google is free for any small questions you have as well
I didnt want the video to be too long, so i understand that it felt a bit rushed. You can try to slow down the video abit in the settings. I hope that helps.
Then watch an in depth tutorial? You're obviously not going to learn Fusion AND how to 3D print AND how to design a working item in a ten minute video. These are more for people who have a decent skill set in the topics covered. I personally can just look at the videos thumbnail and recreate it. Which I might, they look great and are a good idea.
Pause button. Scrub backwards. Read transcript.
TH-cam you can slow down the speed :D
amazing bro
nice work!
hey thanks man!!
Great tutorial! Quick question:
Are you supergluing the caps to the base? My caps fit in nicely but not "snapped" in. They are pretty loose when I stand the sign up and can fall out.
hey man, if thats the case, you can of course, superglue them but keep in mind that you might have to take them out for servicing purposes if the LED stops working or something.
Or reprint the caps without the 0.1mm tolerance so it will be a snug fit.
Easy and understandable video. nice and keep up the good work.
thanks man! Glad that it‘s helpful
What filament did you use for the caps? Was it clear or just printed very thin?
hey man, i just use normal white PLA, in this case, it‘s sunlu white PLA+
Thanks! Now I can print a sign for my business 😊
your welcome, and good luck with your sign!
What filiment type did you use for the white caps?
hi there, just white PLA+ from sunlu. You can basically use any white PLA.
@Lukis3D thank you
nice job! What's the best printer for a mid size shop? and price range? Thanks!
hey thanks man! I would say A1, it was $299 on BlackFriday sale, but i think normally it costs $349.
If you‘re not printing big items, then A1 Mini with SwapMod systems. $179+$75 +plates.
You can check out the SwapMod systems in my other video👍🏼
@@Lukis3D thank you for your input!!!
Awesome tutorial. Subscribed ❤
Thanks for the sub!
Wow ! What a helpful vidéo ! I have a question, have you ever used round LED strip ? Also , can you give me mord info in the LED strip that your using in the video ? Best regards !
hey thank you! Round LED you mean like the COB Led strips? I love them! They‘re my favorite currently.
In this video, the LED i used (similar) can be found in the description.
What type of fillement can i use for outdoor?
then its ASA. But you need an enclosed printer to print it
@@Lukis3D oh OK, thank you
What do you do with the "excess" LED strip that isn't neded? Can it be trimmed?
you can use for other projects. you just need to solder it to a connector that can be plugged in to a power source
@@Lukis3D so it's trimmable to length? cool!
which filament did you use? Is it a simple white filament so that it shines through so diffusely?
Yes, its a simple white Sunlu PLA+ filament. the key is that the thickness of the wall has to be thin enough so the light shines through.
In this case, its 0.4mm.
What thickness did you print?Thanks for the explanation!
@@d.g.7253 sorry, i just saw your message. the face of the caps has a thickness of 0.4mm (thin enough for the light to shine through and thick enough that it won‘t break) . I print everything in 0.2mm layer height.
Disculpe que equipo de apple tienes?
i have an iMac which is from year 2017😁
Muchas gracias @@Lukis3D
I'm struggling at the @7:21 mark. I'm not able select just the boarders. I am only able to select the space not the line boarders. Any advice for this?
I’m not sure what do you mean by line borders. At 7:21, i selected the space, right?
This is probably because the letter has an open line. While editing sketch, turn on ''points'' and look for white one... the white one means it is not connected
Excelente trabajo, hermano felicitaciones
thank you so much!😁
Hey, I had a question for you.
I'm trying to make an LED but I have a problem, when I have the text ready and I remove unnecessary lines, the color disappears from the background of the letter and I can't select it to create a solid shape. Are you able to suggest what to do?
hey man, then you might have trimmed the lines that you shouldn’t trim, which makes the whole shape incomplete.
I would re-do it before the background color disappears and carefully remove the lines. Zoom in really close if you have to.
Or if its too tricky to trim everything cleanly, its also okay to leave some lines here and there, it wouldn’t be that much of a problem.
top thx ! Can you do a cool desktop lamp ? Like a sci-fi LED lamp!
i must have something set up incorrectly in Fusion. Everytime i follow along with one of these videos, the presenter always uses negative numbers for offsets to draw an outer offset, but i have to use positive numbers to achieve the same thing. Anyone know why? Thanks!
👏 bravo dude. looks amazing.
thanks so much!
@@Lukis3D Now u say something nice about me
Amazing my guy 💯.. Thanks for the tutorial definitely going to make a sigh
your welcome man! Good luck and happy printing💪🏼
The part when making the inserts, when you say click all but the "Outermost" or "uttermost" line except the 0.1mm offset. I have tried multiple ways and was not able to get it to extrude corectly. It wouldnt extrude into the object.
hi there, try to zoom it in so you can see the areas better. And for extruding you wanna make sure you select the area of the line encompassing it and not the line itself
Its cool, but calculate with the heat of LEDs. PLA could melt down if you use LEDs. Or at least it will deform at long usage.
this tutorial was awesome ! I been using OnShape a little but couldnt figure it out to do this light box. So I installed Fusion and followed your video, after a few hours, I have a sign of my company name ! the only question i have is the seperation of the letters. How did you do that?
hey thanks man! Glad that you successfully made your own sign! What do you mean by seperation of letters? You mean to move the letters around? Once the constraint is lifted (blue lines), just highlight the letter,right click and select move. You can move it around to wherever you like, rotate or even change the shape
Love the tutorial! Well done video
Thanks so much!
This is awesome and I want to give it a shot as it seems very practical. You wouldn't happen to know what font you used for the Japanese Hiragana?
thank you! of course, it’s Noto Sans Japanese which you can download for free on Google Fonts (it is also copyright free).
Hi, I am at the point where I just exploded the letters and they are green. I click on constraints and I get the lock symbol but I can not figure out how to select everything. Is there a special key I need to press?
hi there, you can also select everything first, then click the lock icon. It also works. Then click it again to deactivate it
@@Lukis3D Thank you :)
could anyone help me? When I extrude the letters, to fit them, in the extrusion when I select -0.40 for offset and -20.00 for distance, it cuts out my entire letter, leaving only the top of it, and the piece is not hollow.
No what I meant is during print. You could not fit the whole sign on one plate, so how exactly did you split the sign to print in multiple plates?
when designing the letters, i made STL for each letter, so when you import it into the slicer, you can try importing 2 letters at a time. Or 3 letters at the same time. they will stay together like they are in Fusion 360.
@@Lukis3D ok I went back to the video and I see and understand what you're doing at the 4:00 minute mark. Thanks
Hi Lukis. I´m from Brazil and want to get into the 3D world. What model of 3D printer do you recommend on a budget? Not too expensive? But good enough?
this A1 Mini is definitely a very good beginner friendly 3D printer. You won’t be dissapointed with it! You don’t even need the AMS Lite if you don’t plan to print in multicolor.
Great tutorial, very detailed but kinda fast for this newbie. It’s ok. Ill just have to watch it 20 more times then on the 21st time i will pause at each step and make that sign 5 times until i can make my own sign.
thanks for the comment! Yes it‘s a bit rushed because i didn‘t want to stretch the video too long.
If it‘s a little too fast, would it be helpful if you slow down the video? (you can do this in the settings)
@@Lukis3D I felt the same way, a bit fast in certain areas for a total pleb like myself, but overall it was really informative and instructional.
@@Lukis3Dtoo fast and hard to me 😢
😂 watch it at 0.25x playback speed then
at 7:11 it will not let me select the outer line , when I double click the outer line to make the 0.1mm offset to just goes the the inner line
you don’t need to double click it though, just one-click is fine. And make sure to select the line of the original letter. You can’t offset the offset line.
3:50 deleting lines for me generates 103494592345 more lines, each telling me the mm width of each shape, so it's overwhelmingly confusing. How do you get rid of that sudden explosion of measurement lines?
just uncheck "dimensions“ in the Sketch Palette window (that box in the right). You can also uncheck anything that you don‘t wanna see. Hope that helps!
nice video. many thx
thank you, glad you liked it!
Is it possible to make this on a resin printer? Great explanation!
thank you! I never owned a resin printer before, so i‘m not really sure
Great tutorial ❤
thank you so much!
Do you have a link for that printer?
sure, you can get it from the official Bambu Lab store: store.bambulab.com/products/a1-mini?skr=yes&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItcKL_qbghAMVBmlBAh2nxQWBEAQYASABEgLTDvD_BwE&variant=47355264467292
@@Lukis3D thank you! Subbed!
One extra step that I would do is to print the blue part upside down so that the texture matches the clear parts
i wouldn’t recommend doing that, since you’ll need a lot of support if you print it upside down. Plus, you have to deal with elephant foot which would mess with the fitting of the caps. But the second problem can be solved by using a deburring tool (takes alot of time) or use elephant foot compensation setting in the slicer.
This is fucking awesome! A plugin for this would be crazy! Thanks for showing this!
thanks so much!
@@Lukis3D You know if there is a plugin to automate this? want to do some for all 3 of my nephews rooms/setups
Is your use of Autodesk Fusion non-commercial here? I am interested since I may do the same kind of thing myself (making tutorial videos that may get monetized).
Hi there, yes if you’re generating
Nice video. Thanks for sharing
The SPARK at 10:10 !!! 😅
thank you! Hope it‘s not too rushed. Yeah I get the sparks alot 😅
Is there a way to do this for an older gentleman who may not be tech savvy? Just learning how to use TinkerCad and this is a difficult tutorial to follow 😁 *asking for a friend ofc
Yeah Fusion360 isn‘t the most user friendly software. I think there‘s a good tutorial made by another TH-camr using Tinkercad, (i forgot his name) but you could achive the same result!😊
Very interesting tutorial. But a suggestion that might be helpful for the future - show us the feature BEFORE going through the mechanics of how to achieve it.
As well as showing the final product in the introduction, some discussion of the design details and dimensions (particularly clearances) would have made the tutorial even better.
For example, it wasn’t until the end that I realised you had been creating the internal ‘step’ that raised the translucent pieces above their base and provided space for the led strip!
It wasn’t so much the speed of the action that created difficulty, but rather that you were doing stuff (at speed) and we weren’t shown/told what you were trying to achieve before you went through the steps to do it! That example: do this, this, this,…. “And that will create the narrow edges on the inside of the base” (4:55 for 30 seconds). Narrow edges (ledges?), let alone their reason for existence, had not been mentioned before!
Simply put, it is easier for us to follow if we have some idea of where we were going!
For the diffuse translucency, exactly which filament was used at what thickness, please? That would be a really simple and useful takeaway.
Thanks for the effort you have put into this!
Hi there, thanks for your comment! I understand exactly what you meant, but I sped the process up so the video won’t be too long. I made the tutorial so that you would only need to copy what i do to get the exact same result.
But don‘t worry, I actually plan to make a second in-depth tutorial in the future, which would be quite long, but i hope it’ll help more people, so I really appreciate your input!
Anyone know how to print out a youtube video transcript? I think it can't be done.
How long did it take to print and how many grams of plastic?
for the LIKE sign, it was 10 hours in total, and about 330g of PLA
@Lukis3D thanks 😊
Wow, real love your video. - Thank you :-)
thanks so much!
Excellent tutorial.
thanks so much!
What software is used?
its Fusion360
awesome one!
thanks so much!
@@Lukis3D i am printing my own project right now, based on your tutorial . ill gift it to my mother. its a name of her dog and its contures
Very cool.
thanks man!
What is the model pf your 3d printer?
its the A1 Mini from BambuLab
Do you mind me asking how you'd do this from say a PNG or a SVG? I'm struggling to bad haha, I have the files ready but i'm so damn new to Fusion 360 I wouldn't know how to use those steps. Aside from my issues, brilliant tutorial!
no problem, in fact, the thumbs up icon i made in this video was using an SVG file. You can‘t use PNG though, u need to convert it to SVG first. Just follow the steps where i inserted the thumbs up icon, then the process is similar
FUSION 360 ISN'T WORKING ON MY LAPTOP CAN I TRY SOILD WORD BUT IS THE STEPS DIFFRINTE?
sorry, i‘ve never used solid before so im not really sure.
@@Lukis3D what about autocad?
You could try Shapr3D
@@Lukis3D Is The steps similar in onshape ?