Nice 2nd gen Cummins by the way. My buddy is having a smiler issue with his 2nd gen Cummins he got just recently and when the truck is cold it starts up fine. Once it got to opening temp it started to have a issue on long extended crank and it’s turning over pretty quickly. And only way to get it to start is with starting fluid or little bit of gasoline to help it start. But once it’s running he can Revit up as many times as he wants. Soon as he put’s it in gear it kills the engine and then it’s back to a long extended crank and then back to little bit of gasoline to help it fire up. And he hooked it up to a computer and it says p0216 and p0236
Usually hot restart issues are VP44 related, and that first code your friend has is exactly that. Might be time for a new injection pump. The second code is map sensor, here is instructions on diagnosing and testing that. Honestly one or both would very likely cause the issue. mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/p0236-map-sensor-too-high-too-long-r64/
Disconnect dashboard PCM to the alternater. Install a voltage regulater to alternater. Install FRM - Field Replacement Module cm end of PCM two wires that was connected to alternater so the PCM thinks its connected and dont give light on dash guage. Dashboard PCM is bad for alternater. PCM sometime wont activate alternater to charge batteries. Voltage Regulater is from 1970-1987 that works and is better for any vehicles.
I have a p1689 code which is no communication from ecm to vp44 and I’ve checked most wires and grounds all seem to be okay. The truck cranks up and idles no problem can even drive it but it’s dead pedal only goes up to 1300 rpm and it’s either idle or 1300 rpm no incline in pedal or decline
dude, I have a long a$$ crank like yours but I have no leaking diesel, I've changed the batteries, starter, and fuel return check valve, and still no dice.
Any air getting into the fuel system with the truck sitting will create an air pocket that then needs to be bled out via long cranking. I referred to it as letting the fuel drain back, losing prime would also be an accurate way to describe it.
Mine hard start issues after the first start, research and the vp44 needs certain revolutions to build pressure for the injectors to open. I did a load test on my batteries and the closest to the starter tested at 40% and the passenger at 80%. Replaced both batteries and fires right up every time with no issues also replaced that crank sensor they are are known to fail.
hm okay mine is doing the same but downhill it starts great. up hill it drains back. did everything so far except crossover oring could that be causing it still
@@DalesMichael the o rings are not likely an issue, the crossovers them selves are where my leaks were, metal on metal seal, so any deformation or debris will cause a drain back type leak issue.
I remember the cross over tube repair. Nice work on that one!
Informative/awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you found it useful 👍
Nice 2nd gen Cummins by the way. My buddy is having a smiler issue with his 2nd gen Cummins he got just recently and when the truck is cold it starts up fine. Once it got to opening temp it started to have a issue on long extended crank and it’s turning over pretty quickly. And only way to get it to start is with starting fluid or little bit of gasoline to help it start. But once it’s running he can Revit up as many times as he wants. Soon as he put’s it in gear it kills the engine and then it’s back to a long extended crank and then back to little bit of gasoline to help it fire up. And he hooked it up to a computer and it says p0216 and p0236
Usually hot restart issues are VP44 related, and that first code your friend has is exactly that. Might be time for a new injection pump. The second code is map sensor, here is instructions on diagnosing and testing that. Honestly one or both would very likely cause the issue.
mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/p0236-map-sensor-too-high-too-long-r64/
@@AllThingsBoost yeah. Thank you for sending that
@@AllThingsBoostp
I have no CEL, I’ll have to get it to a code reader.
Disconnect dashboard PCM to the alternater. Install a voltage regulater to alternater. Install FRM - Field Replacement Module cm end of PCM two wires that was connected to alternater so the PCM thinks its connected and dont give light on dash guage. Dashboard PCM is bad for alternater. PCM sometime wont activate alternater to charge batteries. Voltage Regulater is from 1970-1987 that works and is better for any vehicles.
I have a p1689 code which is no communication from ecm to vp44 and I’ve checked most wires and grounds all seem to be okay. The truck cranks up and idles no problem can even drive it but it’s dead pedal only goes up to 1300 rpm and it’s either idle or 1300 rpm no incline in pedal or decline
Check your apps is behind the throttle body. Make sure you’re getting 0.578 for voltage. Pin the blue and use screw to adjust.
dude, I have a long a$$ crank like yours but I have no leaking diesel, I've changed the batteries, starter, and fuel return check valve, and still no dice.
What was the issue?
How would crossover tube have anything to do with drainback?
Any air getting into the fuel system with the truck sitting will create an air pocket that then needs to be bled out via long cranking. I referred to it as letting the fuel drain back, losing prime would also be an accurate way to describe it.
My issue is a warm start long crank, cold start fine.
Mine hard start issues after the first start, research and the vp44 needs certain revolutions to build pressure for the injectors to open. I did a load test on my batteries and the closest to the starter tested at 40% and the passenger at 80%. Replaced both batteries and fires right up every time with no issues also replaced that crank sensor they are are known to fail.
Glad that fixed your issue
did you notice harder starting facing up hill vs down hill
No
hm okay mine is doing the same but downhill it starts great. up hill it drains back. did everything so far except crossover oring could that be causing it still
@@DalesMichael the o rings are not likely an issue, the crossovers them selves are where my leaks were, metal on metal seal, so any deformation or debris will cause a drain back type leak issue.
@@DalesMichael any updates on this?? My truck is currently doing the same thing
That engine bay is filthy. Needs a good detailing
🤣
Just has experience
lol have you seen a dirty cummins engine bay😂
That engine bay is clean. You might get the shakes if you saw mine.