This video was a life saver for me. The nice thing about it is that you take the time to show everything that could go wrong and how to deal with it, compared to other videos that just show how to change a pump in an ideal situation. Thanks to you I was able to pluck up the courage to take the job on and I was prepared for every eventuality. The biggest challenge I encountered in the end was finding a big enough wrench but luckily managed to borrow one from a neighbour. Got the old pump out and replaced in around an hour, no leaks and all good. Moreover, my wife thanks you too because her toes are warm again. Happy wife, happy life!
This is an excellent video in comparison to other "replace your central heating pump" on youtube, particularly like how you went into detail on the valves...very informative nice one! 👌
FYI for anyone wondering, Mark cut and replaced the electrical connection to the pump. That existing wire is solid-core "twin and earth". The reason why he replaced it with so-called "flex" is because the pump can vibrate and solid core copper wires can, over time, work-harden and break. (Although, honestly, this will probably take longer than the life of the pump.) Still, "flex" is flexible because it has multi-core thin copper strands and that makes it much less likely to fail catastrophically with vibrating connections.
I have tried about ten vidios about changing a pump, every one are clowning about playing to the camera or talking about things not related to pump ,he is getting on with the job
Thank you for showing the reality. It’s the bastard jobs we need help on. Anyone can work on a text book perfect system with all the valves new . It’s trying to repair the badly positioned, badly corroded, badly installed where we need help and trade tips. Thanks
Thanks for making this video, the only thing that worries my is the power switch, I have an on off switch to the pump, but would feel happier if the whole house was switched off, ..! Will the pilot light go out if I do this, ? Have not tried it yet, but getting the light to re- light can be a nightmare on my 25 year old boiler...
Excellent video... You carefully wrapped ptfe tape round the bottom olive but didn't on the top olive. I've never put ptfe tape on compression fittings - never even thought about it - but can't do any any harm I guess! I've just had to take my pump off - it had frozen, literally, sub-zero water. After defrosting it, it still didn't pump well and the boiler was upset. As you suggested it had been put on by a gorilla so I siphoned the water out of the header tank (lol - 30 year-old water -with associated sludge, interior radiator rust and insects). I just undid the smaller compression fitting nuts and pulled it out complete with the shutoff valves. Then I removed the motor/impeller bit by undoing the 4 allen bolts to clean out the crud that was stuck in the impeller. Stuck a 13A plug on the wires and tested it in the sink. I can see why these pumps are generally mounted vertically - it has almost zero ability to draw the water horizontally - except when fully submerged (just the water in and out was submerged). My pump is mounted horizontally and it's clear that it wasn't broken - clearing the crud from the impeller probably helped but the main reason was that a bit of air had got in and that rendered the pumping action almost useless. Took most of the day but I probably saved myself £300 (and the rest).
Not an expert but on mine the boiler controls when the pump turns on. Yours could be wired incorrectly. Check to see if the pump goes off when the boiler is off (usually a switch is available on the boiler).
So from my exprience changing a 3 way diverter valve I would on an F an E drain down prior anyway for a pump.Yes bleeding it all can and is a pain but I know its empty before I start.I tend to tie the ball valve up and let it empty if no isolation valve is on the the system to to headers and even if they are I never trust them.
That's all well and dandy, but in my area,trying to get hold of a heating engineer to do a relatively straightforward job like this,there's more chance of getting Lord Lucan! Plus there's quite a few diyers who do everything by the book and are more than capable. Different if you're dealing with the boiler itself.
In my experience people who want to DIY it, will do it with or with out instructions. I find as many people who now feel they can do this job them selves after see my video, there will be and equal number after see my video not wanting to do the job.
That’s a pretty dumb statement. I think competent people should be doing what they can to maintain their heating systems. A lot of this stuff is fairly basic stuff that most people can manage DIY.
Thank you Mark your explaination was very clear and you showed so much detail I will get a plumber in. Kit
This video was a life saver for me. The nice thing about it is that you take the time to show everything that could go wrong and how to deal with it, compared to other videos that just show how to change a pump in an ideal situation. Thanks to you I was able to pluck up the courage to take the job on and I was prepared for every eventuality. The biggest challenge I encountered in the end was finding a big enough wrench but luckily managed to borrow one from a neighbour. Got the old pump out and replaced in around an hour, no leaks and all good. Moreover, my wife thanks you too because her toes are warm again. Happy wife, happy life!
Excellent video. Well presented and detailed. It's given me the knowhow to tackle a pump change when the weather breaks. Thanks for posting
Excellent video Mark!!! I have to replace a pump and both valves are banjaxed, this video is going to be a godsend. All the best. Paul in Ireland
Great video. Changing one for the first time tomorrow and this has really helped. Thank you!
Excellent video and explanation
Thanks, fixed mine 👍
This is an excellent video in comparison to other "replace your central heating pump" on youtube, particularly like how you went into detail on the valves...very informative nice one! 👌
Superb video Mark! Nice that you cover the 'sods law' problems that we all come across and not just the theory. Very enjoyable watch.👍😉
Excellent thanks
FYI for anyone wondering, Mark cut and replaced the electrical connection to the pump. That existing wire is solid-core "twin and earth". The reason why he replaced it with so-called "flex" is because the pump can vibrate and solid core copper wires can, over time, work-harden and break. (Although, honestly, this will probably take longer than the life of the pump.) Still, "flex" is flexible because it has multi-core thin copper strands and that makes it much less likely to fail catastrophically with vibrating connections.
I have tried about ten vidios about changing a pump, every one are clowning about playing to the camera or talking about things not related to pump ,he is getting on with the job
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos mate, really helpful!
Fantastic video!
Incredibly detailed and thorough - thank you.
Thank you for showing the reality.
It’s the bastard jobs we need help on.
Anyone can work on a text book perfect system with all the valves new .
It’s trying to repair the badly positioned, badly corroded, badly installed where we need help and trade tips. Thanks
really helpful video...just need to do the job now :)
Exellent detailed video
what a nightmarew job for a simple thing needs redesigning to make it simple great video
Yes and under the boiler needs to be in a plastic tub incase of leaks
Thanks for making this video, the only thing that worries my is the power switch, I have an on off switch to the pump, but would feel happier if the whole house was switched off, ..!
Will the pilot light go out if I do this, ? Have not tried it yet, but getting the light to re- light can be a nightmare on my 25 year old boiler...
Excellent video... You carefully wrapped ptfe tape round the bottom olive but didn't on the top olive. I've never put ptfe tape on compression fittings - never even thought about it - but can't do any any harm I guess! I've just had to take my pump off - it had frozen, literally, sub-zero water. After defrosting it, it still didn't pump well and the boiler was upset. As you suggested it had been put on by a gorilla so I siphoned the water out of the header tank (lol - 30 year-old water -with associated sludge, interior radiator rust and insects). I just undid the smaller compression fitting nuts and pulled it out complete with the shutoff valves. Then I removed the motor/impeller bit by undoing the 4 allen bolts to clean out the crud that was stuck in the impeller. Stuck a 13A plug on the wires and tested it in the sink. I can see why these pumps are generally mounted vertically - it has almost zero ability to draw the water horizontally - except when fully submerged (just the water in and out was submerged). My pump is mounted horizontally and it's clear that it wasn't broken - clearing the crud from the impeller probably helped but the main reason was that a bit of air had got in and that rendered the pumping action almost useless. Took most of the day but I probably saved myself £300 (and the rest).
Because on the top one he just put joining compound on. Both do the same job
When replacing the gate pump valve due to corrosion should the new valve be set to fully open?
Thanks!
Great video, thank you. Do the valves come with the pump? If not, which ones did you use as replacements?
Nope, normally 22mm
Good old classic screw driver you use to turn off the valves
Just wondering if these newer pumps need bleeding and how you would do this as there doesn't seem to be a bleed screw like the older ones.
I've got an older Grundfos pump. But i cant work out why mine is constantly on. HW & CH work fine when called. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Not an expert but on mine the boiler controls when the pump turns on. Yours could be wired incorrectly. Check to see if the pump goes off when the boiler is off (usually a switch is available on the boiler).
S type heating systems are fully pumped. Both heating and hot water.
So from my exprience changing a 3 way diverter valve I would on an F an E drain down prior anyway for a pump.Yes bleeding it all can and is a pain but I know its empty before I start.I tend to tie the ball valve up and let it empty if no isolation valve is on the the system to to headers and even if they are I never trust them.
Hi
If the pump gets to hot is that the speed or blockage on a new pump
How do you service a valiant Pro plus boiler.
How to set pump speed because the rads to warm up to quickly but the last rad warm slow
Jut remove the four socket screws on the pump body, to change the orientation of the control panel(With system dry!)
can any one tell me why i have hot water coming out of my vent pipe and in to my header tank in the attic this happens when the pump comes on
Why always wear orange 🍊
Too much talking: get on with it
These are good videos mate but it's taking work from us gas safe engineers. The general public shouldn't be messing with central heating
Exactly, pass on these skills and this knowledge to an apprentice not Joe public !
That's all well and dandy, but in my area,trying to get hold of a heating engineer to do a relatively straightforward job like this,there's more chance of getting Lord Lucan! Plus there's quite a few diyers who do everything by the book and are more than capable. Different if you're dealing with the boiler itself.
In my experience people who want to DIY it, will do it with or with out instructions. I find as many people who now feel they can do this job them selves after see my video, there will be and equal number after see my video not wanting to do the job.
That’s a pretty dumb statement. I think competent people should be doing what they can to maintain their heating systems. A lot of this stuff is fairly basic stuff that most people can manage DIY.
You rip people of and don't charge fair prices so stop moaning